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Posts Tagged ‘mode’

RawTherapee 5.6 adds new Pseudo-HiDPI mode, ‘unclipped’ processing and more

23 Apr

Cross-platform Raw image processing program RawTherapee has announced its most recent update, version 5.6, which brings along new features and tools to improve the image editing experience.

The flagship feature in RawTherapee 5.6 is new Pseudo-HiDPI support that now makes the interface appear smooth and sharp across various displays regardless of screen size or resolution. The RawTherapee team says Pseudo-HiDPI is enabled by default and uses the font size, DPI and display settings from your computer to to create the best image possible.1

An illustration provided by RawTherapee highlighting the new Pseudo-HiDPI mode.

A new ‘Unclipped’ processing profile has also been added ‘to make it easy to save an image while preserving data across the whole tonal range.’ RawTherapee 5.6 also has a new user-adjustable tiles-per-thread setting ‘for users who want to find optimal values for their system.’ Hundreds of other overall improvements have been made as well behind-the-scenes for improved performance.

RawTherapee is free to download for Linux, macOS and Windows computers. The developers behind RawTherapee have created a helpful Wiki to explain the tools as well as a ‘Getting Started’ article to help kickstart anew users


1 It’s worth noting though that there have been issues with certain macOS display settings interfering with the Pseudo-HiDPI mode though, so if you run into any issues, it might be best to turn this feature off for the meantime.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon EOS R firmware update 1.2.0 brings eye-detection AF to Servo mode

19 Apr

On April 18, Canon released firmware version 1.2.0 for its EOS R full-frame mirrorless camera, adding eye-detection AF and small AF frame size support for Servo AF when shooting still images. In addition, both AF options are available while shooting videos regardless of the camera’s Movie Servo AF setting, according to Canon.

As with the version 1.1.0 firmware update released in February, the new 1.2.0 update is fairly small. Joining the new AF support are fixes for the following bugs: incorrectly displayed electronic level in the EVF, improperly rotated info displayed in the EVF, and an issue with updating the WFT-E7 firmware.

The version 1.2.0 update is available to download from Canon’s Support website.

The full changelog is below:

Firmware Version 1.2.0 incorporates the following fixes and enhancements:

Eye-detection AF

  • Supports Servo AF when shooting still images.
  • Now available when shooting movies regardless of “Movie Servo AF” setting.

Small AF Frame Size

  • Supports Servo AF when shooting still images.
  • Now available when shooting movies regardless of “Movie Servo AF” setting.

[Bug Fixes]

  • Under certain conditions the electronic level displayed in the electronic viewfinder did not display properly.
  • Under certain conditions information displayed in the electronic viewfinder was not properly rotated.
  • Under certain conditions updating the firmware for the wireless file transmitter WFT-E7 was not possible.

This firmware update is for cameras equipped with firmware up to Version 1.1.0. If the camera’s firmware is already Version 1.2.0, this update is unnecessary. When updating the firmware of your camera, please first review the instructions thoroughly before you download the firmware.

The firmware update takes approximately 6 minutes.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What You Need to Know About Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

27 Mar

The post What You Need to Know About Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

When you’re getting started in flash photography, it can seem like your flash has a mind of its own. You’ll be surprised to know that in a way it does. However, switching to manual mode can give you the control you really want.

1 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash in manual mode lets you set the amount of light that you want to fire from your flash to light your subject.

What is manual mode?

External flashes are default set to the ETTL setting. This setting lets the flash meter the light and then give what it thinks is the correct output of light. ETTL is rather inconvenient since each photo you take will have a different output because the flash is constantly metering before each frame, causing a lot of inconsistency from photo to photo.

2 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Refer to your manual to find out how to change your flash from ETTL to Manual. On Canon, you push the MODE button until you cycle through to M which is manual.

Manual mode is where you take control of the power output of the flash and therefore get more consistently lit photos. For example, if you are in one spot photographing a portrait and don’t need to adjust for ambient light changes constantly, then you can set your flash at 1/4 power and leave it there until you move or want something different.

3 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

When competing with the sun, full power or half power is your best bet.

In manual mode, you override the flash’s metering and have full control. It also allows you to control taking photos at shutter speeds of more than 1/200th of a second, which is the fastest shutter speed in ETTL.

4 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

On this particular flash, hitting the button with the “H” on it will allow you to use a shutter speed faster than 1/200 of a second. Refer to your flash manual to find this option.

You can use manual mode in both outdoor and indoor settings. Practicing using your flash in manual gets easier over time, and eventually, you’ll be able to select the correct output for the ambient light or the effect that you want to achieve.

Manual mode is also really helpful when you ‘slave’ more than one flash. Slaving is when you sync more than one flash so that they go off at the same time. In manual mode, each flash can be set to a different power output so you can choose which is your key light and which is your fill – giving your photos more depth and contrast.

5 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

For these photos, two flashes were used to light the couple and keep the ambient in the background.

Metering output for flash in manual mode

Your camera meters ambient light, however, it does not do the same for flash output. Don’t worry though, with practice and a bit of trial and error, you will get to know your flash and when to use full power or half power, for example.

6 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Now you’re probably wondering what full power even means. An external flash has power output levels which are read in fractions. Full power output means that the flash is giving everything it has got and this is transcribed as 1/1. From there it can go to 1/64 of its power output.

There is no right way to begin practicing, however, it’s best to meter for the ambient light that you want to achieve in-camera. For example, if you’re photographing a family during sunset, meter for the sunset. Once you have that settled, put your flash in manual mode and begin with a power output of 1/4 power.

7 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

No flash was used for this portrait.

 

8 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Same family, location, ambient light and used flash at 1/8 power.

From there, adjust the power of the flash until you get the desired result. This way, you’re guaranteed to have the ambient light metered correctly and use the flash to fill in the light where you want it – in this case, on the family.

You can use your flash on your camera or off-camera in manual mode. Using it off-camera will give you a more angled direction of light and may inspire some creative lighting. On camera, be careful of the power output and angle you have your flash. Outdoors, you’ll probably want to point the flash at your subjects. Indoors, however, you might want to bounce the light off of a ceiling or adjacent wall.

9 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

If you’re using a modifier like a flash diffuser, be aware that the light output will be different than using the flash without a diffuser. The power needed to light your subject also depends on the distance at which the flash is from your subject. When your flash is closer to your subject, it requires less power because the light is closer.

10 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

If you are at a distance, then you’ll need to up the power on the flash in order for it to reach your subject at all. This can be especially tricky outdoors so make sure you are checking your photos after taking some test shots.

When to use your flash in manual mode

You should strive at getting comfortable using your flash in manual mode every time you need to use flash. This can really help you to get consistent photos when you’re not moving around or when the ambient light isn’t changing.

11 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

The left photo is with flash and the right is without flash. Note the blue of the ocean and the sky with the flash versus without flash.

The best times to use flash are when you want to pop some light onto your subject when you’re competing with the sun outdoors, or when you want to control and create light in a studio, to fill in shadows, during sunset or low light, and for indoor settings.

For example, when you are photographing family portrait sessions outdoors with the sunset, you may need to use the flash to fill in light so that you can get the beautiful sunset and not have your subjects in the dark.

12 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Left without flash and right with flash.

Another example is when you are in an indoor setting, like a bride getting ready and you can bounce your flash off the ceiling to add some light into the room.

Using your flash in a studio setting can be a little more tricky since flashes don’t come with modeling lights. If you’re photographing in a dark room, using a flashlight to focus your camera first can be a big help. Some flashes have a fluttering effect to help with focusing, check your manual to turn this function on.

13 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

One flash used for both photos. The left has the flash in front of the couple and the second has the flash behind the couple.

Using more than one flash at different power output levels can also create stunning photos with lots of depth, much like real studio strobe flashes but with more portability and less expensive.

To do this, you’ll need transmitters or some flashes also come with built-in sync transmitters. This means that when one flash sees another go off, it also goes off.

Other important factors when shooting with flash in manual mode

A few things to keep in mind when you’re photographing subjects with flash in manual mode include the batteries, shutter speed, ambient light metering, and high-speed sync.

14 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash to fill the couple in and capture the sunset.

When you’re photographing at 1/4 power or more, you’ll go through batteries much quicker. A battery pack especially made for flash and professional cameras can come in handy especially if you’re going to be using flash for a long period of time. It can also make recycling the flash much faster.

What is flash recycling? It’s the amount of time that it takes the flash to recycle and be ready to flash again. The more power you set the flash at, the more time it takes to recycle. For example, a flash at 1/2 power takes longer to get ready to fire again than a flash powered at 1/16.

15 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash at an angle to light your subject creatively.

The flash also takes much longer to recycle when the batteries begin to drain and lose charge. Have at least three or more sets of batteries at the ready in case this begins to happen.

When you’re using a flash in ETTL, the fastest shutter speed that you can use is 1/200th, on some, it can go up to 1/250th of a second. This isn’t too fast if you’re photographing in outdoor light or competing with the sun. Many flashes have the ability for high sync speeds when you’re using the flash in manual mode.

16 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash indoors bounced off the ceiling at about 1/16 power.

The distance of the flash to your subject can also affect where to set the power on your flash in manual mode. The further away your flash is from your subject, the more power you’ll need in order for the light to reach your subject. The closer you are, the less power you’ll need. Of course, this depends on where you are photographing your subject and if ambient light is a factor.

Practice makes perfect

Using flash can seem really intimidating. However, controlling your flash by using it in manual mode can be just the right move for you to get comfortable using a flash. Practice makes perfect and the more you practice with your flash, the more you’ll understand how to power it in certain lighting situations.

17 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Flash used at 1/16 power to fill in light and get catchlights in eyes.

Unfortunately, cameras don’t record flash settings in the metadata of your images. It only records if the flash fired or not. This isn’t helpful when you’re trying to practice flash in manual mode.

Carry around a small notebook and record your settings in your camera for each image that you take. This way, you can remember what your flash settings were in that particular set up and light for future reference.

18 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash at a 45-degree angle toward the subject off camera helps fill in the light.

As time goes on, you’ll be more comfortable setting, testing, and using your flash in manual mode.

In conclusion

19 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash at 1/2 power indoors off-camera, on a flash pole high and pointed directly at the subject. This imitates the light of the sun for these indoor photos.

If you feel like using your flash sometimes gives your images an inconsistent look, try using your flash in manual mode. Manual mode lets you be in full control of how much light you want the flash to fire giving you more consistent exposures and taking out the guesswork of the flash itself.

Try it out and let us know if these tips helped you out!

The post What You Need to Know About Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


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Huawei P30 Pro to come with periscope-style tele lens and updated night mode

06 Mar

Huawei will unveil the successor of its P20 series smartphone at an event in Paris on the 26th of March. However, the company has already revealed a couple of interesting details about the P30 Pro camera to Android Central during a meeting at MWC in Barcelona.

According to Huawei’s VP of Global Product Marketing, Clement Wong, the top-of-the-range model in the P30 series will feature a periscope-style tele camera, similar to what we’ve seen on OPPO’s 10x prototype that is expected to make an appearance in a finalized product any day now.

Huawei hasn’t provided any information about the exact magnification the module will provide but given the P20 Pro already offered a 3x optical and 5x optical zoom last year, we’d expect an improvement over that. So maybe, the P30 Pro will beat OPPO to the line and be the first smartphone on the market to come with a 10x optical zoom.

A photo of the moon that was recently captured with the device in question by Huawei CEO Richard Yu would certainly indicate a zoom factor that is not available on any current smartphones.

Photo: Huawei

In addition to the powerful zoom, Huawei engineers have also been working to improve the previous generation’s low light capabilities. The company did not provide any detail but suggested the next version of its night camera will be major upgrade over the already pretty impressive existing one. Despite the current lack of detail, it seems there’s a lot to look forward to for mobile photographers at the Huawei launch in a few weeks time.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Pixelmator Pro 1.3.1 released with Portrait Masks for images captured in iPhone Portrait mode

15 Feb

Image editing app Pixelmator Pro has been updated to version 1.3.1, gaining Portrait Masks for images taken using the iPhone’s Portrait mode in iOS 12. With Portrait Masks, any iPhone Portrait mode imported into Pixelmator Pro is automatically opened with a layer mask made from the depth data.

The new feature makes it possible to rapidly isolate the portrait’s foreground from the background, enabling users to replace the background or make other quick adjustments. Pixelmator demonstrated the feature in the video above.

In addition to the Portrait Masks feature, Pixelmator Pro 1.3.1 adds new keyboard shortcuts for duplicating layers, organizing content, making selections, and more. As well, the editor now uses tabs by default. Finally, the update also adds a new ‘Comics’ effect under Stylize for applying a comic book style to images. The update’s full changelog is available here.

Pixelmator Pro can be purchased from the Mac App Store for $ 39.99.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Panasonic S1/S1R to ship in March; HLG Photo and High-Res mode added to feature list

08 Jan

Panasonic has announced that its Lumix DC-S1 and DC-S1R full-frame mirrorless cameras will ship at the end of March. The company also disclosed two previously unmentioned features that will be offered on both cameras.

First is a ‘HLG Photo Mode’, which captures photos with high dynamic range using the Hybrid Log Gamma profile. Photos are saved as HSP files, which can be viewed on HLG-compliant devices.

These will be among the first cameras to be able to take advantage of the latest HDR displays: showing a natural-looking image with a wider dynamic range (not squeezing a wide dynamic range into the limitations of older, standard-DR monitors). The movie and broadcast industries have already developed a series of standards for capturing and showing HDR footage but there’s been less progress in the photographic world.

Apple’s recent iPhones can capture and display HDR images but it’s not clear which standard they’re using: the HDR images only currently appear as HDR on the device’s own screen. By adopting the simple and increasingly widespread HLG system (currently used by the BBC and cameras from Panasonic, Fujifilm and Sony), Panasonic could help establish a way for photographers to shoot and edit HDR stills, knowing that some displays will know how to show them correctly.

The second feature is a multi-shot high-resolution mode, that uses the camera’s sensor-shift image stabilizer. The camera moves the sensor a tiny amount to capture eight separate exposures, which are combined into a single image with high levels of detail. A ‘suppress motion blur’ option is available, which we’ll surely be testing once we have an S1/S1R to review.

Lumix S1 sample photos by Daniel Berehulak

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Press Release

Panasonic Announces Additional Key Functions for the New Full-frame Mirrorless Camera at CES 2019

Las Vegas, NV (January 7, 2019) – Following an announcement at Photokina 2018, Panasonic will unveil additional key features of the new LUMIX S full-frame mirrorless cameras at CES 2019. The LUMIX S full-frame mirrorless cameras and lenses will be available at the end of March 2019.*

A Whole New Style of Photo Expression

High Dynamic Range Still Photo – HLG Photo Mode

HLG Photo allows images to be shot with a wider dynamic range. By reproducing both glaring lights and dark shadows that are likely to be overexposed or underexposed, the Lumix S achieves rich, precise color expression as close as possible to visual memory.

HLG Photos are produced as an HSP file. The user can play back these vibrant images on the latest Panasonic HLG-compliant 4KTV via HDMI cable connection or other HLG-compliant devices. It is also ideal for photographers’ photo presentations.

Stunning Details with a Realistic Sensation

High Resolution Mode

Taking advantage of the Body Image Stabilizer. (I.S.) mechanism, eight consecutive images are automatically shot while shifting the sensor. These eight images are synthesized into a single image by the new Venus Engine, which boasts high-speed signal processing. Precise details are faithfully reproduced to be saved as a beautiful, highly realistic image. This mode is ideal for shooting natural landscapes or fine art objects with delicate details.

Considering situations where moving subjects are included in the scene, sub options are available to suppress motion blur, so photographers can use this mode the same as shooting in a normal photo shooting mode.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Samsung Malaysia caught using DSLR image to advertise Galaxy A8 Star ‘Portrait Mode’ feature

04 Dec

Samsung has again been caught using an image captured with a DSLR to advertise its mobile camera capabilities. The discovery was recently detailed on DIY Photography by writer and photographer Dunja Djudjic, who took the image and made it available for sale on EyeEm.

After receiving an alert that the image had been sold, Djudjic used a reverse image search and found the image on Samsung Malaysia’s website, where it features a different background and is used to advertise the Galaxy A8 Star’s Portrait Mode feature.

Samsung Malaysia displays two iterations of the image on its website, one with a sharp background replacing the original, another with a blurred background supposedly demonstrating the handset’s Portrait Mode capabilities.

Djudjic contacted EyeEm in an attempt to confirm whether Samsung purchased the image, but the company hadn’t yet received the sales data and was unable to confirm the buyer. Getty, which is partnered with EyeEm, was also contacted to determine whether the sale took place through its platform, but didn’t respond to the inquiry.

Djudjic attempted to contact Samsung Malaysia and Samsung Global, but was unable to get a response about the image’s use.

This isn’t the first time Samsung has been caught passing off stock images to advertise its mobile camera capabilities. In August, Samsung Brazil’s Twitter account tweeted two stock images advertising its Galaxy A8 camera capabilities, but later removed them after being called out.

Competitor Huawei was also previously caught using images captured with a DSLR to advertise its mobile camera capabilities. In 2016, the company used an image captured with a Canon 5D Mark III to advertise its P9 smartphone’s camera. Later in August 2018, the company published a video with images seemingly taken by the nova 3 and nova 3i, but that were later revealed to have been captured with a Canon DSLR.

In addition to EyeEm, Djudjic’s work can be found on Flickr and Behance.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nikon Custom Modes of the D750 and D500. Which mode is best?

28 Nov

Customization is a big trend. From 3D printing to personalizing phones to our face, customization is becoming a requested product feature and a competitive advantage. Cameras also try to provide more and more customizable features to cater to our individual shooting styles. In this article, I will present and compare the Nikon custom modes of the D750 and the D500 including:

  • U1/2 and
  • Memory banks

A D750 features ‘U1/2’ and a D500 the ‘Memory banks.’ In this article, you will learn ways to set both up. Shooting scenarios showcasing the usefulness of custom settings will be included. Finally, I will share my preferred settings for each one, as well as some thoughts on both methods.

1 Nikon Custom Modes

The location of U1/2 on the D750

Location and activation of U1/2

Generally a warmly received feature, U1/2 can be found on the top dial of the cameras that include them.

The way to move between them is to push the button next to the dial and spin the dial until the required setting aligns with the white indicator line next to the dial. This then becomes the active combination of preselected settings.

Location and Activation of Memory Banks

On the other hand, Memory Banks are not assigned upfront directly to physical controls. Instead, these are selectable through the menus or are assignable to button and dial press-and-turn combinations.

There are different ways to access and activate banks. The most common are:

  • Through the ‘photo shooting’  and ‘custom’  menus shown below. It is the top option on both menus. These switch between the four (A/B/C/D) available photo shooting menu banks (in the photo shooting menu) and the four (A/B/C/D) available custom setting banks (in the custom setting menu). This is the longest way to set banks up, as it resides deeper in the menus.
2 Nikon Custom Modes

Screen of photo shooting menu on the D500

3 Nikon Custom Modes

Screen of custom setting menu on the D500

 

  • Through the ‘info’  button at the back of your camera. Pressing this opens up a menu and the two topmost options are: ‘photo shooting menu banks’ and ‘custom settings banks.’ There is no way to change the order in which they are shown.
  • Through the ‘my menu’  tab. With this menu, you assign them in any ranking that suits you. A variation, for quicker access, is to first place either of them (but only one at any time) as the top item in ‘my menu.’ To follow, assign the shortcut ‘access top item in my menu’ to any permissible button. The buttons / / / work for this shortcut (sub-selector press).
  • Through the assignable button and dial press-and-turn combinations. This method applies exclusively to ‘photo shooting menu banks.’ The buttons that can be pressed in combination with any command dial rotation are / (sub-selector press) / (movie record button next to the shutter button). For the combination with the movie record button to work, the live view selector needs to be in rotated to .
4 Nikon Custom Modes

Live view selector to photography mode position on the D500

A Conceptual Way to Approach Custom Settings

Now you should know how to access and activate both custom settings. I will now discuss the rationale behind them using them.

Firstly, I will talk about useful ‘generic’ concepts:

  1. Camera settings (core/output/fine-tune)
  2. Photographic parameters (scene variables/photographic intent/enablers)

These concepts are a framework for you to consider in the use of custom settings. I prefer this framework, rather than simply answering ‘which custom settings are best for portrait, sports, nature or any other photography genre?’ I have intentionally left out perspective (I consider this primarily impacted by lens selection) and composition (as this is the photographer’s prerogative).

1. Camera Settings

Core Settings: Aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and metering. These are at the heart of photography, regardless of genre. Most of these are changeable on the fly while shooting through the dedicated button and/or dial press/turns.

Output Settings: Most of the settings of the ‘photo shooting’ menu. These affect the output file type, size and look, such as file quality (raw and jpeg), picture control system (standard, vivid etc.), and white balance. An exception is the ISO setting, which I consider core.

Fine-tune Settings: The menu options of the ‘custom settings’ menu. These are important adjustments to the way the camera looks at and reacts to the scene/subject.

2. Photographic Parameters

Scene variables: I keep it simple, by including (available) light levels and subject movement only.

Photographic intent: This is the part where you decide what you want to convey or achieve through your photograph. Do you want to freeze or show movement? Go high or low key on the scene? Are you isolating your subject from its surroundings or showing some background detail? These (and many more) are the meaningful aesthetic choices, which make each photographer unique.

Enablers: Out of the many props/modifiers available to photographers, I include here the flash and the tripod. These two (arguably filters as well) make possible, more than anything else, the realization of our vision in diverse genres of photography (e.g. landscape, long exposure, night photography, macro etc.). Additionally, each of them has their own distinct group of settings to maximize their effectiveness. 

How Do U1/2 and Memory Banks Approach These Concepts?

Any given scene can be broken down to any pair of variables (marked with x) in the table below.

5 Nikon Custom Modes

I argue that superimposing our photographic intent on these sets of variables, assisted by suitable enablers, is the art and technique of photography. In my view, the custom settings number one goal is to facilitate effortless interplay between variables, intent, and enablers.

To achieve this, they should allow a quick switch from one bundle of the core, output and fine-tuning settings to another. U1/2 and Memory Banks do this in different ways, as I will demonstrate below.

U1/2 Table

Key: U1 (User-defined 1), U2 (User-defined 2), C1 (Core 1), C2 (Core 2), O1 (Output 1), O2 (Output 2), F1 (Fine-tuning 1), F2 (fine-tuning 2)

6 Nikon Custom Modes

Memory Bank Table

7 Nikon Custom Modes

The tables above summarize the difference in the logic of U1/2 and Memory Banks.

  • U1/2 are vertical combinations of selected settings of all types of camera settings.
  • Memory Banks is a matrix combination (i.e. mix and match) of primarily ‘Output’ and ‘Fine-tuning’ camera settings. The exception is the inclusion of the core ISO setting on the photo shooting Menu Banks. Turning on the ‘extended photo menu banks’ option in the ‘photo-shooting’ menu allows for the other settings (aperture/shutter/manual priorities, aperture, and shutter values as well as exposure and flash modes) to be embedded in the photo shooting banks.

Applying Custom Settings to Real-Life Shooting Scenarios

Generic Shooting Style

Before I provide some examples of real-life shooting using both custom settings, I will make a few important working assumptions about a ‘generic’ shooting style:

  • You shoot various genres of photography regularly in a mixed way (i.e. you would opt for the maximum settings’ range and flexibility within easy reach)
  • You do not employ back button focus. I propose you do so. It can increase your focusing and composing options, as well as your speed of shooting considerably.
  • You are not a full-time raw or jpeg only shooter. Myself, I shoot raw 95% of the time/shots.
  • You do not use auto ISO. I propose you do, as on the field it can make life a little less complicated.
  • You have and know how to use a flash and a tripod.

Typical Shooting Situations

Now, I will walk you through one of my typical shooting situations – walking around town or traveling, to show what I ideally expect from my custom settings.

Scenario One:

As I am strolling along, I see a nice background for a portrait. I want my camera to be on the ready with pinpoint focus accuracy (AF-S single point) with a nice shallow depth of field. Depending on surrounding light levels and contrast, I may or may not want to add flash-fill or even overpower available light using high-speed sync, so it is handy to be able to quickly access a convenient flash exposure starting point.

8 Nikon Custom Modes

Portrait of a friend taken with the D750

Scenario Two:

Along the road, a cute animal is playing. I’d like to shoot it as it moves, freeze it or do a nice pan. My camera needs to be ready to follow motion (AF-C combined with any preferred focus area mode). Also, I need quick flexibility on my shutter speed selection from a 1/1000th sec (to freeze action) down to around 1/30th sec (to pan).

9 Nikon Custom Modes

A portrait of a dog taken with the D500

Scenario Three:

I enter a beautiful garden. Flowers are perfect to photograph close-up (macro) so I set up my tripod. Here, I require a deeper depth of field and pinpoint focus accuracy again (AF-S single). If the light is not plenty, I may need a longer than usual exposure.

Turning ‘on’ long exposure noise reduction and exposure delay, provides better image quality in these scenarios. To further mitigate shake risk, I also engage mirror lock-up. Unfortunately, mirror lock is not pre-configurable in U1/2 or in Memory Banks.

10 Nikon Custom Modes

A Flower close-up taken with the D750

Scenario Four:

On any trip, it is great to take a nice landscape photo. In this case, the macro settings above, more or less apply. If there is plenty of light, shooting handheld is not an issue.

11 Nikon Custom Modes

A landscape taken with the D750

Scenario Five:

Finally, during a town-by-night walk, a nice long exposure is always memorable. Again, the macro scenario settings and my trusty tripod come in handy.

12 Nikon Custom Modes

A long exposure taken with the D500

Based on these realistic hypothetical-shooting scenarios, it is evident that settings vary considerably from auto-focus mode to shutter speed and aperture, to flash or no flash etc. You may also want to give your camera to someone for a quick snap, without having the time or inclination to explain focus, recompose or other settings.

If there is an ‘auto’ option on your modes dial then all is good, if not, then resetting to ‘waiter’ or ‘dumbbell’ mode (as full-auto is also known to some) is not quick nor easy without custom settings.

Now, I will briefly show my settings for both modes and a few tips to further increase their flexibility.

My Settings for U1/2

U1 is my ‘General Shooting Mode’ and the settings are shown in the screen below. If you employed back-button focus, then you would use AF-C instead of AF-S

13 Nikon Custom Modes

My U1 settings in D750

U2 is my ‘Flash Shooting Mode’ and the settings are shown in the screen below.

14 Nikon Custom Modes

My U2 settings in D750

It is important to mention that you have additional options by customizing M/A/S modes.

The Settings I Use For Memory Banks (Extended Banks ‘ON’)

My photo shooting banks are named A=General B=JPG C=Shutter D=Manual

The custom banks are named A=General B=Flash C=Tripod D=Waiter

I have set banks this way to be able to move from my usual working best quality output (e.g. A/A) to basic point and shoot output (e.g. B/D) within just a few seconds by using the ‘info’  button and changing the ‘custom settings’  banks.

Tips to maximize both methods:

  1. Create and rank items in ‘my menu’. This will allow quick access and change of settings that are not pre-programmable in any mode (e.g. mirror lock up).
  2. Especially for Memory Banks, use the ‘save/load settings’ option onto an SD card (one you will not format). Also, store the settings file on any drive for safekeeping. This will give you a quick restore method, in case you forget what your initial Memory Bank settings were after many changes, as banks are not ‘sticky’.
  3. Read on the net for other ways that users have set their U1/2 and banks. Their needs and style may suit yours. 

So Which Method is Best?

After comparing U1/2 with Memory Banks for versatility in the above scenarios, my conclusion is that banks provide me with the highest flexibility thanks to their matrix structure. However, banks demand greater discipline in their set-up and use to remain helpful. This is because U1/2 are ‘sticky’, while banks are not.

Once settings are saved in U1/2, no matter what changes you make while shooting with U1/2 selected, you will not impact the saved settings. Simply reselect U1/2 and you are at your initial settings in a blink, hence ‘sticky’. However, all 8 banks save settings dynamically in real time as you apply them during your shooting. Following is a simplified example to elaborate:

You have U1 set up as A-priority, AF-S at f/5.6 and matrix metering. During your shoot, you move from the matrix to spot and f/8. Do you want to go quickly back to your base settings? Simply turn the dial from U1 to U2 and then back to U1 again, and you are back to f/5.6 and matrix.

In banks (both custom and shooting), if you wanted to keep your selected bank identical to the starting configuration, you would need to manually bring metering and apertures back to their initial values.

Conclusion

So, in the grand scheme of things, I have no complaints from either method in the Nikon Custom Settings. I am glad to have both available. I value the ease of use of U1/2 and I love the greater choice that Memory Banks give me. For example, being tripod-ready for landscape or macro, without having to remember to change many settings makes things easier and quicker.

It would be great to have an option to easily save and restore banks in camera to provide the best of both worlds, or to have the quick recovery of U1/2 with the greater choice of the banks.

Join the discussion and let us know your preferred method and way of programming Nikon Custom Settings on the D750, D500 or any other camera featuring U1/2 or banks.

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RAW Power 2.0 for Mac and iOS launched with batch editing, new adjustment tools, Dark Mode

20 Nov

A year ago, Nik Bhatt, founder of Gentlemen Coders and a former lead developer for Apple’s Aperture and iPhoto team, released RAW Power, an iOS-based Raw photo editor. Today, a year after its initial launch, RAW Power 2.0 has been released and with it comes updated adjustment tools, batch editing, and more.

RAW Power for Mac 2.0

RAW Power for Mac 2.0 operates as both a standalone app, as well as an extension for Apple Photos. The updated version brings new adjustment tools including chromatic aberration correction, perspective correction, a black and white mode, a vignette tool, and a new enhance module.

Batch processing has also been adding. Now, users can apply filters and adjustments in bulk and copy edits from one photo to another. A new custom naming tool has been added for better organization upon exporting photos.

RAW Power for Mac 2.0 has also received a few UI tweaks. It now includes a full file browser, multiple window and tab support, a thumbnail grid view, Quick Look support, improved metadata information, and a new dark look to go along with maxO Mojave’s Dark Mode.

RAW Power for Mac 2.0 works with macOS High Sierra and Mojave. It retails for $ 29.99 as a one-time purchase, but Gentleman Coders is currently offering it for $ 26.99 throughout the month of November. Version 2.0 is a free update for existing RAW Power for Mac 1.0 users.

RAW Power for iOS 2.0

RAW Power for iOS 2.0 claims to be ‘the first app to combine Raw image editing with seamless iOS and iCloud library integration.’ Like its macOS counterpart, this update brings along the same new adjustment tools (some of which are hidden behind a $ 1.99 in-app purchase) including chromatic aberration correction, perspective correction, a black and white mode, a vignette tool, and a new enhance module. Gentleman Coders says these adjustments are 100 percent compatible with the macOS version and will sync through iCloud Photo Library if you have it enabled.

Batch processing is also present in the iOS version. Users can now ‘apply presets, paste adjustments, revert to original, and generate JPEG previews for [Raw photos] for multiple images at a time.’ The UI has also been updated across the board, including a customizable adjustment panel and a new option to share and export directly to the Photos app in various formats.

RAW Power for iOS 2.0 is available for $ 2.99 in the iOS App Store with two optional in-app purchases for $ 1.99: Advanced Adjustment Pack 1 and 2. Advanced Adjustment Pack 1 includes Depth Effect, Curves, and white balance adjustments. Advanced Adjustment Pack 2, a new pack for version 2.0 of the app, includes chromatic aberration, vignette, perspective, and black and white adjustments.

RAW Power for iOS 2.0 supports iOS 11 and 12 and ‘does not support iPhone 5s, 6, or 6 Plus, or iPad mini 3 or earlier.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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iPhone XR Portrait mode for pets, inanimate objects enabled by Halide developers

30 Oct

The developers behind camera app Halide may have discovered a way to enable Portrait mode for pets and objects on the iPhone XR. The revelation was made by one of the developers on Reddit over the weekend, where it was explained that the team found depth data from the iPhone XR’s camera and used it to successfully use Portrait mode on pets and inanimate objects.

Unlike the other new dual-camera iPhone models, the iPhone XR’s single rear camera only supports taking Portrait images of humans, a limitation that may be addressed by third-party apps like Halide. According to the Reddit post, using the mode for non-humans on the iPhone XR is a bit finicky at times and only works if there’s “enough variance in relative distance of objects,” the developer explained.

“Note that the depth map is way lower resolution than the dual camera setup, but it seems usable,” the post states. Halide developer Ben Sandofsky shared the above Twitter post showing the resolution difference between iPhone XS and iPhone XR depth data on Twitter. The feature needs “some more tooling,” the Reddit post states, but it’s likely Halide will offer the ability to iPhone XR users in a future update.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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