RSS
 

Posts Tagged ‘Lens’

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

04 Oct

The post How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

The job of a camera lens is straightforward: it bends and focuses light, and it does so through the use of several curved pieces of glass that move back and forth. It sounds simple but is actually a lot more difficult than it might seem. Byproducts of all that glass are anomalies such as chromatic aberration and barrel distortion which can mar an otherwise beautiful image. Lightroom can fix these on its own to a degree, but to really take control of your pictures you can use the Manual Lens Correction panel to fine-tune your image until it’s pixel-perfect.

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

Understanding Chromatic Aberration

Before wading too deep into manual lens corrections, it’s important to understand what causes issues such as chromatic aberration in the first place. Different colors of light travel at different wavelengths. As a result, when the glass elements of a lens bend the incoming light, it can be quite tricky to make everything line up properly on the camera’s image sensor. This is especially prominent when shooting at the widest possible aperture since it gets really difficult to get the light to behave properly when you let so much in at once.

The result is purple and green fringes when you see hard edges in a picture. It can also produce distorted images that look either squished or puffed out in the middle. Cheaper lenses, or lenses with very wide apertures, don’t have as many glass elements to correct for these issues. It’s also why lenses like the Nikon 105 f/1.4 or Canon 85mm f/1.4 cost (and weigh) so much! They have a lot of special glass inside to correct for the problems that often happens with their less expensive counterparts.

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

If you don’t have a few thousand dollars to spend on ultra-sharp lenses, you can fix these image issues in Lightroom.

When you shoot in RAW, you can use the Automatic option. This does a fine job of removing purple and green fringes and fixing barrel distortion based on what it knows about the characteristics of your lens.

Image: Click these boxes to have Lightroom automatically attempt to fix lens-related picture problem...

Click these boxes to have Lightroom automatically attempt to fix lens-related picture problems.

Nine times out of ten it does the job quite well. However, sometimes you will want to tweak things for yourself or just do the entire operation on your own. This is where the Manual option really comes in handy.

Manual Lens Correction

The Manual Lens Correction panel contains three options, each of which you can control separately.

  • Distortion lets you re-shape your picture so it’s less puffed-out in the middle.
  • Defringe deals with purple and green fringes at areas of high contrast, particularly with a lot of backlighting.
  • Vignetting is for lightening or darkening the corners of a picture.
Manual-Lens-Correction-in-Lightroom

The Manual Lens Correction option gives you full control over lens corrections.

Distortion

This is a common issue with many lenses that isn’t always very obvious. However, once you notice it, you’ll start seeing this phenomenon all the time. Fortunately, the fix is simple. It’s usually just a matter of dragging the Distortion slider to the left or right.

Image: Something’s not quite right here. The composition is fine but the middle is bulging out...

Something’s not quite right here. The composition is fine but the middle is bulging out like a balloon.

As you drag the slider, you will see a grid appear over the picture which can help you get just the right value. Look for straight horizontal or vertical lines in your picture, and drag the slider until they line up with the grid.

Manual-Lens-Correction-in-Lightroom

The roof of the building gives a nice guide when correcting for distortion. It’s not quite lined up with the grid yet, but pushing the distortion slider a bit more will fix the problem.

The Constrain Crop option makes sure the final image stays within a square or rectangular boundary. If you adjust the slider too far to the right, the image can get a little too warped. However, checking this option will fix this by essentially zooming in on the picture as it’s being adjusted to avoid an extreme pincushion effect.

Manual-Lens-Correction-in-Lightroom

 

Final image:

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

Defringe

This is where you can easily correct purple and green fringes that can show up on your pictures. You can adjust the sliders manually, but my preferred way is to use the eyedropper tool to select specific areas of purple and green fringing that you want to remove.

The picture below is straight out of the camera with no lens correction applied. Notice how the edges of the bench have what appears to be slight purple and green outlines. These are caused by the light being bent and shaped by the camera lens. Once you know to look for these sorts of issues, you start seeing them all over the place!

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

Here’s a close-up view of the same picture. Notice the purple curve at the base of the seat and the green edges at the knurled edge that goes horizontally across the frame.

Manual-Lens-Correction-in-Lightroom

To manually correct these instances of chromatic aberration, Lightroom needs to know what range of colors you want to remove. Use the eyedropper tool to select either a purple fringe, a green fringe, or both, and then fine-tune by adjusting the sliders for Amount and Hue.

Manual-Lens-Correction-in-Lightroom

After selecting your purple and greens with the eyedropper tool, Lightroom will do its best to remove those specific colors around any high-contrast edges. You can fine-tune the defringing by adjusting the Amount and Hue sliders, but I usually find that Lightroom does a fine job just with a few clicks of the eyedropper.

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

When viewing the full image, you can see these instances of chromatic aberration are now gone, and the picture is much more pleasing as a result.

How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

This operation can be extremely useful with portraits, which are often shot using larger apertures. Even if you don’t shoot close-ups for a living it’s nice to know that this simple, fast fix is available to you.

Vignetting

This option works much like the regular Vignette tool in Lightroom. You can use it to make the corners of your picture lighter or darker, depending on whether you drag the slider to the right or left.

Nearly all lenses exhibit some degree of vignetting, especially when using their widest aperture, but you can easily correct them using this tool.

Manual-Lens-Correction-in-Lightroom

Original image, straight out of the camera.

Sliding the Amount all the way to the left darkens the corners of the picture. It’s subtle but effective at drawing the viewer’s attention to the subject in the middle.

Image: Vignette amount -100

Vignette amount -100

Conversely, sliding the Amount all the way to the right makes the corners lighter. This is often useful to correct for the vignette that is inherent in many lenses at wider apertures.

Image: Vignette amount +100

Vignette amount +100

Conclusion

While you can use Lightroom’s automatic lens corrections, it’s nice to know how to correct for things like chromatic aberration, distortion, and vignetting on your own using manual lens correction. The best part is that none of these edits are permanent and you can undo your changes any time due to the non-destructive nature of Lightroom. So if you just want to try these out and see what happens, go right ahead!

 

manual-lens-correction-in-lightroom

The post How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Make a Manual Lens Correction in Lightroom

Posted in Photography

 

How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens

04 Oct

The post How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

epic-sunrise-photos-with-a-zoom-lens

Taking a beautiful sunrise picture might seem simple: just point your camera or mobile at the sun as it creeps over the horizon and you’re good to go. While this can certainly result in an interesting image, you can take sunrise pictures to a whole new level with a zoom lens and a bit of camera knowledge. If you have a lens with a longer focal length that goes to 200 or 300mm, you can get some epic sunrise pictures with a zoom that showcase the majesty of nature in the morning.

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

200mm, f/11, 1/500 second, ISO 100

Seek the sun

Before you can take a good sunrise picture, you need to do a bit of planning, so you know when the sun is going to come up. It also helps to know where to look so you’re ready when the moment hits. A quick internet search with your location and the words “sunrise time” will help you know what time to take pictures. As far as where to look, that’s up to you.

Of course, the sun always rises in the east, but it’s necessary to know exactly where it will come up relative to your specific location and time of year. To get the best results, you want to snap your pictures right as the sun appears on the horizon. If buildings obstruct your view, you’re going to need to find a location that offers an unobstructed view in the right direction.

To show how precise this process is, look at the picture below. I shot it as the sun was coming up, but the result is boring, bland, and entirely unremarkable.

Image: 200mm, f/6.7, 1/500 second, ISO 800

200mm, f/6.7, 1/500 second, ISO 800

This was shot precisely one minute and 48 seconds before the picture at the top of this article. Why is it so boring? The answer is a simple truth of the business world: location, location, location. While I looked east for the sun, I didn’t realize it had already crested the horizon behind a grove of trees. I was able to take a vastly improved picture just by repositioning myself 100 meters from this point.

When you go out to take sunrise photos, make sure you can actually find the sun!

Expose for the sun

Nailing the exposure on a sunrise picture is quite tricky. Imagine taking a picture of a flashlight in a dimly-lit room. You’ll end up with one of two results: 

  • The room will be properly exposed while the flashlight is super bright.
  • The flashlight will be properly exposed while the rest of the room will be entirely dark.

 It’s nearly impossible to get a properly-exposed flashlight and a properly-exposed room.

Image: 200mm, f/8, 1/30 second, ISO 280. Aside from being hidden behind the trees, this is also a po...

200mm, f/8, 1/30 second, ISO 280. Aside from being hidden behind the trees, this is also a poor shot because the sky and sun are just too bright. The foreground is fine, but all the color detail in the sky is mostly gone.

That is precisely what it’s like to take a picture of the sunrise, especially with a telephoto lens. What you want is a picture where the bright parts (i.e. the sun and sky) aren’t too bright, and the dark parts (i.e. the foreground) aren’t too dark. Basically you want an HDR image, but rather than shooting on a tripod and combining multiple exposures in post-production, you can do it with a single image by shooting in RAW.

Since RAW files capture much more picture data than JPEG files, you can fix many issues in Lightroom, Photoshop, Luminar, and other editing applications. The trick is to make sure you don’t lose any data to clipping, which happens when bright things are so bright that it doesn’t record data. The same can happen with dark areas too, but it’s usually not as much of a problem.

Image: 200mm, f/8, 1/1000 second, ISO 280. Exposing for the sun gave me a lot more wiggle room to fi...

200mm, f/8, 1/1000 second, ISO 280. Exposing for the sun gave me a lot more wiggle room to fix the darker areas of the picture in Lightroom.

There are a couple of ways to expose for the sun so it’s not too bright. You can set your camera to Center-Weighted metering, which ensures the middle of your picture is not too bright or too dark. Another method (and the one which I prefer), is to have your camera evaluate the entire scene but use exposure compensation to under-expose by roughly two stops.

Regardless of how you meter the scene and set your exposure, the end result is the same. In your resulting image, you want the sun to be visible and not too bright. This means the foreground will be dark, but remember that you can recover everything you need when you process the RAW file.

Use a small aperture

If you have a high-end zoom lens like a 70-200 f/2.8 or a 300mm f/4, you might be tempted to shoot sunrise pictures with the largest possible aperture. Blurry foregrounds and backgrounds are great, right? So why wouldn’t you shoot wide open?

Contrary to what you might think, smaller apertures are better when taking sunrise photos. First, it helps make sure your entire picture is sharp. Bokeh is great on portraits but not so desirable on most landscapes. A blurry foreground (thanks to a wide aperture) can distract the viewer and leave the scene feeling kind of mushy as a result.

Image: 200mm, f/11, 1/250 second, ISO 100

200mm, f/11, 1/250 second, ISO 100

Another reason to use smaller apertures, like f/8 or f/11, is that it gives you more control over your exposure. Remember, the sun is really bright, so you don’t need to worry about not getting enough light in your picture! On the contrary, you actually want to limit the amount of light, especially since you want the foreground to be underexposed. A small aperture helps with this.

Use a fast shutter speed

The sun moves fast – really fast. Or, rather, the earth spins fast. That’s what is actually happening when you see the sun come up. And just like any time you want to capture motion, you need to use a shutter speed that’s up to the task. Slower values like 1/30th and 1/60th will not only make exposure tricky, but result in a blurry sun as it speeds upwards on the horizon.

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

200mm, f/2.8, 1/4000th of a second, ISO 100. I broke my own rule about small apertures here, specifically because I wanted the vehicle in the foreground to be out of focus. The trade-off for such a wide aperture was a very fast shutter speed.

I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/250th, and even faster if possible. 1/500th is even better. If you are exposing for the sun, you might even use ultra-fast shutter speeds like 1/1000th or more. Of course, the foreground will be dim, but that’s fine since you can recover those shadows in post-production.

One nice thing about this is it means you don’t need to use a tripod. So that means one less thing for you to bring with you to your sunrise photo shoots. Handheld will work fine, even when zoomed all the way in. That’s because you should have a shutter speed that will compensate for any motion blur due to camera shake.

Be patient, but act fast

Once you have the technical aspects figured out, and you know where you want to position yourself to capture a sunrise, the final piece off the puzzle is patience. I recommend arriving early so you can make sure everything is situated properly. Bring some music or a podcast because you might be waiting a little while. However, it’s better to arrive early than scramble at the last minute.

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

190mm, f/2.8, 1/180th of a second, ISO 250. The sun wasn’t up yet, but I really liked the rich purple and blue colors of the sky – an added bonus of arriving early and waiting. Note the large aperture. It was required to let plenty of light in since there just wasn’t much light available.

As soon as you start to see the sun peek over the horizon, you only have a few minutes to get your shots. Remember to use a small aperture, expose for the sun, and shoot in RAW, and you should be fine. Go ahead and snap a few pictures with your mobile phone too. You’ll be amazed at how much more dramatic and impactful your pictures are with a zoom lens!

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

200mm, f/8, 1/1000th of a second, ISO 100. The sun isn’t in this picture but you can clearly see the morning light on the clouds. I liked the silhouette of the tower against the glowing morning sky too. You can’t get this shot with a mobile phone!

Do you have any other tips for sunrise photos with a zoom lens? Share with us in the comments. Also, I’d love to see your sunrise photos, and I’m sure the rest of the DPS community would also, so please share them in the comments too!

 

 

The post How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens

Posted in Photography

 

Halide 1.14 adds full iPhone 11 support, a ‘Tactile Lens Switcher,’ ‘Lens Guides’ and more

01 Oct

The team behind iOS camera app Halide has released version 1.14, bringing with it support for Apple’s latest iPhone 11 Pro devices, a new ‘Tactile Lens Switcher’ and more.

As explained in its announcement blog post, Halide 1.14 brings full support for the iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro and iPhone 11 Pro Max. The day the iPhone 11 devices were released, Halide was updated with ‘basic support for the new cameras.’ Now, Halide offers full support for the new hardware within the latest iPhone devices.

Halide has also added a ‘Tactile Lens Switcher.’ When there were only two cameras on iPhones, it was easy enough to switch between the standard lens and tele lens—with the tap of a button. But now that the iPhone 11 Pro models offer three camera modules, the Halide team had to rethink how to switch from one camera to another in the most efficient way possible.

Now, in addition to simply tapping on the lens switching button, you can also long-press to bring up a lens switcher, which makes it easy to jump between any of the three cameras on iPhone 11 Pro and iPhone 11 Pro Max devices: .5x, 1x and 2x.

Another new feature is a Lens Guides. Exclusive to the iPhone 11 Pro and iPhone 11 Pro Max, Lens Guide will overlay frames on the image from the .5x camera to show what the composition would look like if you were to shoot it using the 1x or 2x camera. Tapping the composition of your choice will automatically jump you into that camera mode.

The Halide team has also noted that it’s working to further improve its ‘Smart RAW’ capabilities. Halide says it’s ‘an area of ongoing research’ and it’s ‘currently building a lot of data to research and improve our Smart RAW for iPhone 11, and we’ll have a blog post soon about how the new iPhone 11 camera processes images in software and how it compares to the RAW shot.’

Lastly, Halide says it’s managed to make Raw renders in its photo reviewer 3x faster. Halide is available to download in the iOS App Store for $ 5.99.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Halide 1.14 adds full iPhone 11 support, a ‘Tactile Lens Switcher,’ ‘Lens Guides’ and more

Posted in Uncategorized

 

The world’s largest optical lens has been delivered for a $168M, 3.2-gigapixel telescope camera

01 Oct
Farrin Abbott/SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory

The SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory in California, the lab overseeing the design and fabrication of a 3.2-gigapixel digital camera for the Large Synoptic Survey Telescope (LSST), has successfully received the shipment of what may be the world’s largest high-performance optical lens. The announcement was made earlier this month by the Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory (LLNL), where researchers designed the optical assemblies for the LSST.

At this point in time, the 3.2-gigapixel digital camera intended for the LSST is 90% complete, according to LLNL. SLAC has been tapped to manage the subcomponent integration and final assembly of the $ 168 million camera, which is currently estimated for completion in early 2021.

Image credit: Farrin Abbott/SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory

Ball Aerospace in Colorado and Arizona Optical Systems built the lens assembly for the telescope, including the massive 1.57m (5.1ft) diameter L-1 optical lens and the smaller 1.2 (3.9ft) L-2 lens. According to LLNL, the L-1 is likely the largest high-performance optical lens ever created. It took around 17 hours to deliver the two lenses by truck to the SLAC in Menlo Park. Below are a few images of the delivery from the full Flickr album posted by SLAC:

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_9016452996″,”galleryId”:”9016452996″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Livermore physicist Scot Olivier largely credited LLNL optical scientists Lynn Seppala and Brian Bauman, as well as LLNL engineers Vincent Riot, Scott Winters, and Justin Wolfe, for making the massive optical lens a reality. Once fully completed, the LSST will be used to capture digital images of the entire visible portion of the southern sky, according to Livermore, offering what experts anticipate will be ‘unprecedented details of the universe.’


Image credits: Farrin Abbott/SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory, used with permission

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on The world’s largest optical lens has been delivered for a $168M, 3.2-gigapixel telescope camera

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Video: Mathieu Stern of Weird Lens Museum visits The Camera Rescue Project

28 Sep

Mathieu Stern of the Weird Lens Museum recently traveled to Tampere, Finland, where he was invited to tour The Camera Rescue Project, a large collection of vintage cameras being rescued from disrepair and potential loss. Stern introduces his viewers to Juho Leppänen, the man running the project, as well as the small team’s huge collection of around 6,000 vintage camera items at the Camera Rescue Center.

The Camera Rescue Project’s team has tasked themselves with finding, inspecting, and repairing 100,000 vintage film cameras, a process that has thus far resulted in more than 57,000 camera ‘rescues.’ Stern is introduced to the sales side of the Camera Rescue Center, as well as the processes used to inspect the cameras. Malfunctioning cameras and lenses are sorted into the ‘repair queue,’ which is currently home to more than 2,000 units in need of work.

Stern is known for, among other things, his videos showcasing unusual lenses and projects, including a lens created from ice and, more recently, a rare projector lens given a new life. In his most recent video, Leppänen tells Stern that he will be given some unusual lenses to test around the city, something Stern plans to show to his viewers in a future video. The Camera Rescue Project was likewise detailed in a video from Cameraville earlier this year.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Video: Mathieu Stern of Weird Lens Museum visits The Camera Rescue Project

Posted in Uncategorized

 

DULENS APO 85mm F2 is a new manual prime lens for Canon EF, Nikon F camera systems

25 Sep

A new Chinese optics manufacturer has released the DULENS APO 85mm F2, a manual medium telephoto prime for Canon EF and Nikon F camera systems.

Although not much is known about DULENS itself, Newsshooter is reporting it’s been told that the optical engineer behind DULENS is the same who helped bring the NiSI F3 and MAVO prime lenses to life.

The lens, which is inspired by the Zeiss Sonnar series, is constructed of seven elements in six groups and includes an Apochromatic element to reduce chromatic aberration. It measures 5.8cm (2.28in) long, weighs 350g (12.35oz), features a 29-degree field-of-view, uses a 55mm front filter thread and has a minimum focusing distance of 90cm (35.43in).

Below are a number of high-resolution sample images shared on the product listing. These were shot with the lens on a Lumix S1 using an EF adapter:

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_3582120122″,”galleryId”:”3582120122″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

The lens is available to pre-order in black and silver varieties for Canon EF and Nikon F camera systems. It’s currently listed for ¥2999 (approximately $ 420) on Chinese retailer Taobao, but Newsshooter says the company intends to release the lens in the United States and Europe market for $ 599.

We have contacted the retailer for more information on the lens and availability and will update this article if and when we receive a response.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on DULENS APO 85mm F2 is a new manual prime lens for Canon EF, Nikon F camera systems

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Yasuhara announces Anthy 35mm F1.8 lens for Canon RF, Nikon Z and Sony E mount cameras

24 Sep

Budget Japanese optics manufacturer Yasuhara has announced the Anthy 35mm F1.8 manual lens for full-frame mirrorless camera systems.

The Anthy 35mm F1.8 lens (translated) is constructed of nine elements in seven groups and features a nine-blade aperture diaphragm with an F1.8 to F16 range. The front filter thread is 52mm, it has a minimum focusing distance of 40cm (15.75in) and the lens weighs 409g (14.3oz).

The lens is entirely manual and doesn’t feature electrical contacts, meaning no metadata will be sent to the camera it’s attached to and, if applicable, the ‘release without lens’ setting will need to be turned on.

The lens is set for a fall 2019 release and will be available in Canon RF, Nikon Z and Sony E mounts. No pricing information has been given at this time. We have contacted Yasuhara and will update this article if we hear back about pricing information.

Below are three full-resolution sample images captured with the lens on a Canon EOS R:

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_0613491610″,”galleryId”:”0613491610″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

We haven’t heard much about Yasuhara in the past and its lens lineup is rather limited, so we can’t attest to the image quality or durability of its lenses, but the company recently celebrated its seventh year in business. Yasuhara also has Anthy-branded 50mm and 85mm lenses in development (translated).

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Yasuhara announces Anthy 35mm F1.8 lens for Canon RF, Nikon Z and Sony E mount cameras

Posted in Uncategorized

 

How To Protect Your Camera Against Lens Fungal Damage

23 Sep

The post How To Protect Your Camera Against Lens Fungal Damage appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Protecting your expensive camera against lens fungal damage is necessary to prevent lasting damage. Left unchecked, fungal growth can damage the glass elements in lenses forever.

Fungus is a living, growing microorganism which can form on camera lenses. This type of mold is most common in humid climates. Often the damage it causes is only minor, but a rampant fungal growth can ruin a lens.

How To Protect Your Camera Against Lens Fungal Damage

Cleaning fungus on exterior elements of lenses can be relatively easy. However, you need to catch it before it becomes too advanced. Growth of mold on interior lens elements is more difficult to detect and it requires a skilled technician to be able to remove it. The lens must be stripped down, cleaned and then rebuilt – which is a costly process.

Prevention of fungal growth on lenses is far more preferable than having to remove mold. If left unrestrained, fungus can permanently damage a lens because it eats into the glass. Once cleaned, furrows remain in the lens and affects the way light refracts through it.

Methods for preventing lens fungus

Taking proper care of your camera equipment is always good practice. Well-kept equipment will last longer and retain higher used resale value.

Here are some ideas to help you avoid encountering the problem of fungal growth in your lenses.

How To Protect Your Camera Against Lens Fungal Damage

Clean your lenses often

Many photographers are in the habit of cleaning only the front element of their lenses, or the filters that screw on to cover them.

Wiping down your whole lenses with a damp microfiber cloth from time to time is good for them. Particularly if you’ve been photographing in a hot, humid climate. The atmosphere and sweat from your hands can affect your lens.

Using a microfibre cloth helps to avoid leaving unwanted lint deposits on the lens. Once you’ve wiped your lens down with a damp cloth, have a dry one on hand to wipe it down once more. Using a hairdryer on a low heat will also help any moisture evaporate from your lens.

Don’t leave your lenses in the sun to dry them. This can cause other problems.

Store your lenses in a dry box with silica gel

An airtight box is a good place to store your lenses. It’s convenient to leave all your gear in your camera bag, but left there it’s susceptible to affect by moisture.

Including a quantity of silica gel in the box helps to absorb any residual moisture. Small packets of silica gel often come with consumer goods. These do not contain enough to make a significant difference.

Silica gel can be purchased at a store or online, in larger quantities. I prefer the type of gel that can be used more than once. It changes color from blue to an orange color once it’s absorbed moisture. It can then be dried out by placing it in a microwave oven for a few minutes at medium power setting.

lens-fungal-damage-protection

Moist and Dry Silica Gel

A cup full of silica gel placed in an old or stray sock with a knot tied in it will help keep your gear dry in a box. You’ll want to make sure the sock has no holes worn in it.

lens-fungal-damage-protection

Sealed Storage Box

Food storage boxes with good seals are useful. I use this type of box to store my film cameras and older lenses I don’t use often. Every so often I dry out the silica gel in the microwave oven.

A more expensive and robust option is a Pelican case. These rugged camera cases are completely airtight when closed. Depending on the size of the case you may need to add more than one sock of silica gel.

lens-fungal-damage-protection

Pelican Case

Keep your lenses in an air-conditioned room

If you have an air-conditioned room, this is also a good location to store your lenses and other camera gear.

Air conditioning not only keeps the air in a room cooler, but it lowers the humidity. Ideally, you do not want the temperature of the room to be too cold. If you live in a hot climate, this can be problematic when you take the lenses outside. They will fog up.

When a lens is very cold and then taken into a very warm environment, condensation can form quickly. You’ll have to wait for it to clear before you’re able to take any photos.

Use a dehumidifier

This is the type of household appliance which sucks water from the air. It will not cool the room, but it will draw out any moisture in the air.

Running a dehumidifier for a few hours a day in a small room in wet weather is usually enough to dry the air.

They are often portable and cheaper than an air conditioning unit. They also consume less electricity.

lens-fungal-damage-protection

Buy a dehumidifier dry cabinet

This appliance is a dedicated piece of equipment. It’s designed for the task of helping prevent lens fungal damage in your camera equipment.

A dehumidifier dry cabinet is usually a glass-fronted cabinet. They are available in various sizes to accommodate as much or as little equipment as you have to store.

These units are digitally controlled so you can regulate them.

Conclusion

Taking good care of your precious lenses is well worth it. Finding mold in your favorite lens would be soul-destroying.

Investing in an appropriate storage solution can be far cheaper than having to pay for lens cleaning.

Please let me know in the comments below if you have any other tried-and-true ways of keeping your lenses from becoming mold farms.

 

lens-fungal-damage-protection

The post How To Protect Your Camera Against Lens Fungal Damage appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How To Protect Your Camera Against Lens Fungal Damage

Posted in Photography

 

5 Reasons Why the Canon 10-18mm is a Must-Have Wide-Angle Lens

18 Sep

The post 5 Reasons Why the Canon 10-18mm is a Must-Have Wide-Angle Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.

After buying a new camera we all start planning for our next lens, which can replace or complement the kit lens. This is when the real confusion starts, you have to choose one out of the so many options available in the market. If you are a Canon APS-C camera user and looking for a wide-angle lens, the Canon EF-S 10-18MM f/4.5-5.6 IS STM could be an ideal choice. I have been using this lens for almost a year now, so I thought of sharing my experience and views with you all. Let me share 5 reasons why I believe that Canon 10-18mm lens is a must-have wide-angle lens.

Canon-10-18mm-lens

1. Ultra-wide angle of view

If you are or have used the 18-55mm kit lens on your Canon APS-C body, there might have been situations when you wanted to go wider than 18mm. This is when having the Canon 10-18mm lens in your camera bag can help you click frames as wide as 10mm (P.S. do apply the crop factor).

Canon-10-18mm-lens

Imagine you are at a rock concert or an event and you wish to capture the entire stage in a frame. Or imagine yourself looking at a beautiful landscape with beautiful clouds and the sun is setting. This is when using the 10-18mm lens can help you capture ultra-wide angle shots even from a short distance.

2. Ideal for Vlogging

With companies such as Canon also focusing on video features, more and more people are adapting to the vlogging culture. Isn’t it fun to capture moments and experiences when you are traveling and at the same time show your surroundings in a single frame?

5 Reasons Why the Canon 10-18mm is a Must-Have Wide-Angle Lens

I have been personally using the Canon 10-18mm lens on my Canon M50 to record almost all my vlogs for the past year, and have never had a second thought about it. The only situation where this lens can struggle is in low light conditions as f/4.5 is the widest it can go, which might introduce noise. But then, at $ 300, you can hardly find such a wide focal length that matches your requirements.

3. Features Image Stabilization

There are very few lenses (as far as I am aware) that feature Image Stabilization, and are priced under $ 300. This lens is equipped with a 4-stop optical image stabilizer which comes in handy while clicking photos in low light conditions. In practical scenarios, I have managed to get a sharp and stable shot handheld at 1/2th sec using 10mm focal length. So even if it is an f/4.5-5.6 lens, you can let in more light using a slower shutter speed in low light situations.

5 Reasons Why the Canon 10-18mm is a Must-Have Wide-Angle Lens

But you must be careful while clicking images at such a slow shutter speed, especially when there are elements in motion in your frame. I usually use it while clicking photos of monuments/buildings or creative images like light trails.

4. Use it for close-up shots

You may be thinking, “why would I want to click macro shots using a 10-18mm focal length?”

Well, this is not the ideal focal length range for macro photography, but that is where the fun starts. If you wish to capture something different and with a unique perspective, you can get some amazing close-up shots.

Canon-10-18mm-lens

In the sample macro shot shared above, you can see that I was able to get close to the insect and at the same time capture wide frame with shallow depth of field. Isn’t that a unique perspective in itself?

5. Ideal for Street Photography

I believe there is no particular focal length that can be termed as perfect for street photography. Every photographer has their own way of capturing photos while traveling. Some may like ultra-wide, some may prefer a standard focal length, and some may go for a 50mm or 85mm lens.

Canon-10-18mm-lens

I tried clicking candid street photos while roaming in my city and to my interest, the 10-18mm focal length range impressed me for the sole reason that I could capture more elements in my frame. If I had shot this photo shared above at 24mm or 35mm focal length, I would either had to move a few steps back or capture only a part of this beautiful moment.

What are your views about the Canon EF-S 10-18MM f/4.5-5.6 IS STM lens? Feel free to comment below.

 

canon-10-18mm-lens

The post 5 Reasons Why the Canon 10-18mm is a Must-Have Wide-Angle Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 5 Reasons Why the Canon 10-18mm is a Must-Have Wide-Angle Lens

Posted in Photography

 

The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode

13 Sep

The post The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode

Apple has just announced three new iPhones: the iPhone 11, the iPhone 11 Pro, and the iPhone 11 Pro Max.

And, as usual, these iPhones come with new cameras and new camera technology.

But will these new smartphones be enticing for photographers? And if you’re looking to purchase a new smartphone, should you grab an iPhone 11 Pro?

Read on to find out.

The iPhone 11 Pro Camera

First things first:

While Apple has announced three new iPhones, the iPhone 11 Pro and the iPhone 11 Max are basically identical, save for the screen size. Hence, both the 11 Pro and the 11 Pro Max have the same camera specs:

Three cameras.

An improved front-facing camera.

Deep Fusion technology.

Let’s take a closer look:

iPhone 11 Pro: a three-camera setup

The three-camera design is Apple’s first foray beyond their (now standard) 2-camera setup. The iPhone 11 Pro boasts a telephoto lens (52mm equivalent), a wide-angle lens (26mm equivalent), and an ultra-wide-angle lens (13mm equivalent). The new camera (the ultra-wide-angle) should make it possible to capture sweeping landscape shots, or simply to gain a wider field of view when doing group portraits and event photography.

The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode

While the wide and telephoto lenses incorporate optical image stabilization, the ultra-wide-angle lens does not. This shouldn’t be a huge problem, because camera shake is less apparent in wider lenses. But it’s nice to have a bit of image stabilization, especially for night shots.

And speaking of night photography:

Apple has finally added a Night Mode to the smartphone camera lineup. This will supposedly increase detail in night photos, making it possible to produce less noisy images in near darkness. Given the poor performance of iPhones at night, this is a feature that Apple phones have sorely needed.

The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode

Unfortunately, we’ll have to wait and see whether the iPhone 11 Pro’s regular shooting mode will have improved low light capabilities. I’m not holding my breath, however. The iPhone XS’s low light performance is dismal in low light compared to competitors such as the Google Pixel 3, and there are no indications of a significantly improved sensor on the iPhone 11 Pro.

While the iPhone 11 Pro rear cameras all sit at 12 megapixels, the front-facing camera will see an upgrade from 8 megapixels (in the XS) to 12 megapixels. The lens has also been widened. I don’t recommend using the front-facing camera for serious photography, but it’ll be nice to take some higher resolution selfies and wider selfie-group shots.

The iPhone 11

The iPhone 11 is the successor to Apple’s cheaper iPhone XR.

Fortunately, it offers a notable camera upgrade: from a single wide-angle lens, the iPhone 11 now features both a wide-angle and ultra-wide-angle lens setup.

It also includes Night Mode, which will make shooting in low light (hopefully) easier.

Deep Fusion technology

The most intriguing aspect of the new iPhone cameras is the promise of a Deep Fusion technology. This should work on all the new iPhones, including the iPhone 11.

While this feature won’t be rolled out until after the iPhones are released (in a software update), Apple claims that this new technology will allow your iPhone to capture nine images at once, process them, and create a final image that’s optimized for detail, noise, and dynamic range.

If the feature is as impressive as Apple claims, then we have a lot to look forward to.

The iPhone 11 Pro: Should you purchase it?

If you’re a serious smartphone photographer, you’re going to want the iPhone 11 Pro over the iPhone 11. No question. It offers the additional telephoto camera, which you’ll appreciate if you ever want to shoot portraits or street photos.

The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode

But how does the iPhone 11 Pro stack up against its competition?

Personally, I would wait to grab the iPhone 11 Pro until you see what Google comes out with this fall. The iPhone 11 Pro, with its triple cameras and promise of Deep Fusion technology, is appealing. But Apple is currently behind Google in terms of low-light capabilities. And you don’t want to buy a new smartphone, only to wish you had waited just a bit longer for the Pixel 4.

The iPhone 11, the iPhone 11 Pro, and the iPhone 11 Pro Max are available for preorder starting this Friday, September 13th.

What do you think of Apple’s new smartphone cameras? Will you be purchasing an iPhone 11 or an iPhone 11 Pro, or will you wait to see the Google Pixel 4? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode

Posted in Photography