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Posts Tagged ‘Image’

Adobe updates Photoshop CC with new tools, 360° image editing, HEIF support and more

19 Oct

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The all-new Lightroom CC (and newly-renamed Lightroom Classic CC) might be hogging the spotlight at Adobe MAX 2017, but Adobe didn’t forget to throw some love Photoshop’s way. In addition to the standard performance enhancements you expect with every update, Photoshop CC has been gifted with a slew of new features, including: the new curvature pen tool, 360° spherical image editing, HEIF format support, Select and Mask improvements and more.

All of the improvements are summarized in the list below, and while none of them will blow your mind, there’s plenty there for regular Photoshop users to be happy about:

According to Adobe, the most requested improvement that ships with the new version of Photoshop CC is actually the enhanced Brush Presets and Brush Preset Management, which you can see demonstrated in the video below:

And with the explosion of 360° images into the mainstream and the release of iOS 11, the ability to open & edit spherical 360° panoramic images in Photoshop, as well as HEIF format images, is a big deal as well.

Other notable improvements include the new color and luminance range masking tools that were also added to Lightroom CC, the Curvature Pen Tool that Adobe teased us with just last month, and improved Select & Mask functionality overall. You can see these new features in action in the YouTube videos embedded below:

As with all previous updates to Photoshop CC, you won’t have to pay anything extra if you’re already a subscriber. The $ 10/month Creative Cloud Photography Plan now includes 20GB of cloud storage, Photoshop CC, Lightroom CC, and Lightroom Classic CC; or you can upgrade to 1TB of storage for $ 15/month until next year, when that price will go up to $ 20/month.

To learn more about these updates from Adobe itself, head over to the Adobe Photoshop blog by clicking here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Surprise! Google hid a custom-built image processor inside the Pixel 2

18 Oct

Google’s Pixel 2 launch event on October 4th put a lot of emphasis on the new smartphone’s camera capabilities. However, the presenters at the event left out one very interesting detail: Google Visual Core.

Visual Core is a custom-built system-on-a-chip (SOC) designed to power and accelerate the Pixel 2 phones’ much-lauded HDR+ function that achieves better dynamic range and reduced noise levels through computational imaging. The new Pixel 2 phones already come with the chip built in, but it has not been activated yet. It appears Google ran out of time before the Pixel 2 launch to fully optimize Visual Core implementation in the device.

The good news is it will be activated at some point “over the coming months”, which should make HDR+ processing on the new devices even quicker and smoother than it already is (and it’s already far faster than on the original Pixels). According to Google, it will then be 5x faster and use less than 1/10th of the the energy,” a real advantage over the current general purpose processing. In the future the chip could also take over additional image processing tasks.

The company will also enable Pixel Visual Core as a developer option in its Oreo 8.1 preview, allowing access to HDR+ for the developers of third-party camera apps. All of this is currently limited to Google’s Pixel 2 devices, but there’s hope other manufacturer will pick up the Visual Core technology and associated software in the future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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New Samsung image sensors use dual pixel for fast AF and fake bokeh

13 Oct

Samsung Electronics has launched a couple of new image sensor—both intended for use in mobile devices—under its ISOCELL sensor brand—the ISOCELL Fast 2L9 and the ISOCELL Slim 2×7.

As the model name suggests, the ISOCELL Fast 2L9 is part of the Fast line-up, providing fast autofocus speeds, even in low light conditions. To achieve this, the chip is using dual-pixel technology with two photo diodes at each pixel location. This not only speeds up autofocus but, according to Samsung, also allows for creation of a software-based bokeh-effect without the need for a dual-camera, which is more or less what Google’s new Pixel 2 devices do.

The 12MP sensor comes with a 1.28µm pixel size, which is slightly smaller than the 1.4µm currently used in Samsung flagship phones.

At 0.9µm, the pixel size is even smaller on the second new sensor, the Slim 2X7. Like the Fast 2L9, it is designed to fit into even very thin devices without the need for a camera bump, but this one comes with a higher 24MP pixel count. In low light, the sensor combines the image information captured by four neighboring pixels to increase sensitivity and reduce image noise, a process which Samsung calls Tetracell.

Like in other ISOCELL sensors, Deep Trench Isolation technology is applied to improve dynamic range and reduce color crosstalk on both sensors.

Looking at the technologies used in these new sensors it is evident that as a maker of both hard and software, Samsung is an excellent position to design its sensors with computational imaging applications already in mind. Unfortunately, there is no information yet on when we’ll see the new sensors integrated in actual devices.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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GoPro Hero6 arrives today with 4K/60p recording, improved image quality, better stabilization

29 Sep

A more powerful processor is at the center of GoPro’s Hero6 Black announcement today, enabling features like 4K/60p video recording and improved dynamic range compared to its previous Hero action cams. The custom-designed GP1 processor also enables 1080/240p slow motion video, and claims that improved image stabilization and better low light performance come with the package.

Like the Hero5, the Hero6 is waterproof without a case to a depth of 10m/33ft. It also supports GoPro’s QuikStories, a mobile app feature that analyzes footage and automatically assembles short clips of what it identifies as the highlights of your adventure. GoPro says that the new GP1 chip offers advanced machine vision and computer learning capabilities to analyze scenes and create better automated stories.

Other improvements include 3x faster offloading speeds and a new digital zoom feature. The Hero6 comes of course with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, as well as GPS, accelerometer, and gyroscope sensors to track all of the action.

The GoPro Hero6 Black is on sale today for $ 500.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony a9 firmware update 1.10 ‘improves image quality and overall stability’

28 Sep

Sony has released firmware version 1.10 for the Sony a9, bringing improved image quality to the camera alongside a bug fix that addresses a problem with Raw images disappearing when SDXC and microSDXC cards were transferred from the camera to ‘certain smartphones.’ The update also adds the Eye AF function for some A-mount lenses when they’re used with the LA-EA3 mount adapter.

Firmware Version 1.10 for the Sony a9 is available to download from Sony’s website.

The full firmware change log is below:

Benefits and improvements from the latest update

  • Supports “Eye AF” function for A-mount lenses via the LA-EA3 mount adapter *1
  • Fixes an issue where RAW files may disappear when SDXC or microSDXC memory cards are used in certain smartphones *2
  • Improves the image quality and overall stability of the camera

*1: This function is only for A-mount lenses which can adapt to 8 or 10 fps (maximum) tracking AF-C shooting. See here for details.

*2: Raw data recorded by the ILCE-9 with firmware Ver. 1.00 or 1.01 could disappear. Please backup your raw data files, even if you’re updating the system software to Ver. 1.10.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

24 Sep

Almost every camera can do a panoramic shot. A lot of apps and software can create a “little planet” image. So how can you capture that beautiful view and still stay creative? Try going vintage! In this article, I’ll show you how to do a patchwork-style collage (called a Joiner Collage) so you can do any panorama in an original way and end up with a one-of-a-kind image.

What is a Joiner Collage?

Back in the 80s, an artist called David Hockney was studying how human vision works and experimenting with an idea he created called Joiners. Using Polaroids at the beginning and commercial 35mm film later, he shot one subject from many different angles and then put them together into one image creating sort of a patchwork pattern.

Following on this idea, I’m going show you how to do some digital panoramas. By following these steps, you can capture any subject from every point of view that you want. Here is a panoramic I made of Milan that I’ll use to show you all the steps.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

How to make a Joiner

To start this project you already have to be thinking about it from the moment you make the photos. Three things you have to consider:

  1. You will want to shoot all the photos that you are going to need so that you don’t find yourself in front of the computer with a piece of your scene missing.
  2. If you decide to go with a regular shape like a square or a rectangle then try to visualize how many pieces you need per side and divide your scene like a grid (e.g. Five photos for the horizontal side and three for the vertical side).
  3. You need to set the resolution to a lower setting than you might be used to, because all the files will be combined into one (I’ll explain how further along). If you shoot each one at 25 MB for example, or the highest your camera can shoot, it will probably be too big for your computer to handle.

Once you have all the images, organize just the ones are you going to use, all into one folder.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Merging the images

Now open the folder in Bridge and select all images. You can easily do this by holding the Shift key while clicking the first and then the last file; it will select all the images in between as well (or Cmd/Ctrl+A for select all).

With all the photos selected you can now go to the menu Tools > Photoshop > Load Files into Photoshop Layers.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

The result of this command is exactly what its name suggests. It will open one image composed of all the selected images as layers. However, the file will be the size as an individual image, so you need to make room to fit all of them.

Go to menu Image > Canvas Size and a window will pop up with the current measurements. In the drop-down menu choose Percentage and multiply it by as many photos you will line up in your panorama, plus one. So if you are doing a panorama of 5×3 you need to put a percentage of 600 x 400, that way you will have also some blank space to play with.

I like to leave the point in the center so that space will be created evenly on the sides. But you can move that around depending on how you feel it’s easiest for you to spread your images out on the canvas.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Arrange the Joiner collage

Now all you have to do is use your creativity and arrange the photos to create your Joiner collage.

To make this task easy, use the Move tool from the tools panel. Tick the Auto-Select choice and choose Layer from the drop-down menu from the settings of the tool. This will allow you to just click on each image and move it without having to go back and forth to the layers panel. The tool will select it automatically.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Tweak your final image

That’s it! Once you have the final layout you can add some adjustment layers if you want to fine-tune the levels, contrast, saturation or anything else on your panorama. Add a background color if you decide to incorporate some negative space around your Joiner, and flatten the image.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

You can also add some effects if you want to create different versions of the image. For example, you can turn it into negative.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

You can also do an abstract or surreal panorama by duplicating layers, forcing perspective, and anything you can imagine.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Keep in mind that David Hockney, the creator of the Joiner worked mainly with portraits, so you don’t have to limit yourself to panoramas. Try all sorts of subjects, the sky is the limit!

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Conclusion

I hope you give this fun and easy technique a try. Please share your Joiner collage images in the comments below. We’d love to see what you create.

The post How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image by Ana Mireles appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Report: Samsung is developing a 1,000fps mobile image sensor

20 Sep

According to sources who spoke to Korean publication ETNews, Samsung is planning to kick its mobile camera technology up a notch with a 1,000fps smartphone camera sensor that will compete directly with Sony’s similar sensor. This technology is called a “3-layered image sensor,” and Samsung has reportedly ordered special equipment necessary to start producing the hardware in November. Smartphones featuring this technology, like the Sony Xperia XZ, can record super-slow-motion video.

ETNews, which has a good track record in relation to Samsung leaks, claims that this 3-layered image sensor is comprised of TSV stacking technology alongside a DRAM chip and system semiconductor. Pilot production of the image sensors will start in October, the sources claim, followed by mass production in November. By comparison, Samsung currently uses 2-layered image sensors in its newest flagship smartphones.

It is the DRAM chip for temporary data storage that will enable the mobile image technology to capture at 1,000fps, and as we mentioned earlier, Samsung won’t be the first company to develop this technology for mobile devices. Sony was the first to bring this 3-layered image sensor tech to commercial devices, though the sources say Samsung will use TSV stacking rather than thermal compression to avoid the costs that come with licensing other companies’ patents.

Questions remain about which Samsung smartphones will receive the new 3-layered image sensors. Assuming mass production does start this November, it is reasonable to assume we’ll see the sensors implemented into the next batch of Galaxy smartphones the company will unveil in 2018.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing – Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

14 Sep

You have just bought your new bright shiny camera and you are sure that it is just the thing that will help you create better images. You’re shooting JPG with the camera’s automatic program modes, but you’re not getting the results you wanted. You keep upgrading your cameras thinking that will do the trick, only to find that the quality of your imagery isn’t getting any better. What’s going on?

Lightroom Banner - Don’t Fear Photo Editing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

You may be missing an important part of digital photography, post-processing, with a state of the art processing program like Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop.

Before and after

Iceland Light Before - Don’t Fear Photo Editing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

This image of a lighthouse in Iceland was taken on a bright yet overcast day. In a matter of moments with the help of Lightroom, it became a favorite.

Iceland Light After - Don’t Fear Photo Editing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

The role of post-processing in photography is not new

There are several integral parts to digital photography. The technical and creative aspect of using your camera, and the technical and creative application of post-processing your images. Each part is equally important and when all the pieces are put together, that’s when the magic starts to happen.

Unfortunately, many people are still thinking about the days of film when you took it to a lab and the post-processing was done for you. You never had to think twice about how the image was processed. Did you ever notice that different labs gave you different results? That’s because of their level of post-processing.

Now it’s time for you to understand the importance of post-processing if you are going to create better imagery. It will take some time and some dedication to learn, but it will improve your photography by ten-fold.

The first step – shooting with post-processing in mind

First of all, start shooting in RAW format and stop letting the camera make the decisions for you. When you shoot JPG format, it will automatically process your images in camera, even though you may even not be aware of it.

Have you ever taken a JPG and a RAW image and compared the two photographs? The JPG may appear bright and saturated and the RAW file looks flat. That’s because the JPG has been processed by the camera and the RAW file is an unprocessed digital negative.


That RAW file is ready for you to make your own creative adjustments and apply your photographic vision in Lightroom or Photoshop. Only then can you start to recreate that scene you saw when you first took the image.

What kind of post-processing decisions will the camera make for your JPGs? Depending on your camera, it can automatically increase saturation, sharpness, and contrast, but it will also compress your image. There are settings in your camera where you can make blanket adjustments for every JPG (Picture Styles), however, the camera is still making the decisions for you. That gives you zero creative control.

Raw format gives you control

RAW files contain more information and will allow you to have a wider range of tones (called dynamic range) to work with when you bring your images into Lightroom or Photoshop. When shooting in the JPEG format, image information is compressed and lost forever. In a RAW file, no information is compressed and you’re able to produce higher quality images while correcting problem areas that would be unrecoverable if shot in the JPEG format.

The Histogram

Once you start shooting in RAW, it’s very important to be conscious of the histogram. You can bring up the histogram on your Live View shooting screen or after you have taken the shot in your image review screen. Check your camera’s manual for the location of the histogram.

Note: If you shoot with a mirrorless camera you may be able to see the histogram on the screen before you shoot. Check your settings this is very handy.

Why is the histogram important for your photographic success?

If used correctly while shooting, the histogram will give you the information you need to know to bring up the shadows or bring down the highlights and pop out exposure and detail in an image.

The histogram shows you the brightness of a scene and it can be measured as you are shooting, or after you have captured the image. When look at the histogram and see the bulk of the graph pushing towards the right, this means you have an image that may be overexposed (or a really light toned subject).

Overexposed - Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

If the data is mostly on the left of the graph, it’s an image that might be underexposed.

Underexposed - Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

If the graph spikes on either the left or right “wall” of the histogram, that means that “clipping” has occurred. Clipping happens when you have areas in your photo with no information as a result of over or underexposure. When an area has no information, it is either pure white or pure black which is often referred to “blown out”.

Generally, it is undesirable to have large areas of your image that have highlights or shadows clipping. See the image below. The red areas show highlight clipping, and the blue areas show shadow clipping.

Clipping - Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

Because of the limited dynamic range of a camera’s sensor, the area registering as clipped usually leaves the image with no information in the shadows or highlights. A spike touching the left edge of the histogram means that there is shadow clipping. A spike touching the right edge of the histogram means that there are highlights clipping.

What is possible with post-processing?

Many photographers have frustrating results with their images because they don’t embrace digital editing and post-processing. They are doing everything right when they shoot and are good at composition. They know how to expose correctly for the scene, but don’t know where to go with the image once they get home.

For example, maybe they are in a high contrast area and have taken an image with the histogram in mind. Then they open the image on-screen and throw it out because it looks over or underexposed. They don’t know what the post-processing possibilities are even though they may have a viable image. This is where they are missing a large part of the potential in their digital photography post-processing.

Here’s a great example. This image was taken in the Eastern Sierra in California.

Alabama Hills Before - Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

It is obvious that the shadows are way underexposed and it creates an interesting silhouette. But, if you look at the histogram, you can see there is space on the left side of the graph which represents the shadows. This means there is more information there, and a good possibility of bringing up the shadows to create a whole different image.

Here is the result after brightening shadows in Lightroom. This adjustment took just seconds and creates a whole new scene.

Alabama Hills After - Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing - Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process

Start with Lightroom

Almost every image needs post-processing. Some people think that’s “cheating”. It’s not, it’s all part of the digital artistic process.

With post-processing, you can create the image you saw when you photographed the scene. Your eyes have the capability of seeing a wider range of light and color than your camera does, so the images need help in post-processing to duplicate the full range of light and shadows. The problem with a lot of beginners, is they tend to oversaturate or over-sharpen an image. So this talent comes with time and practice, practice, practice.


Once you have mastered the basics, there is a lot more you will be able to do with your digital post-processing that will add drama and interest to your photos. The above image of Bridal Veil Falls in Yosemite looks rather flat in the RAW version (left). Once you add saturation, sharpening, and a vignette to the whole picture it starts to pop. Then you can enhance the brightest areas by “painting with light”, and it now becomes a much more interesting image.

Start your post-processing journey with a full featured program like Adobe Lightroom. It is the standard in the industry for professionals, but it is also user-friendly for beginners and helps with both post-processing and image organization. Just be sure that your computer has enough memory and RAM to run these full featured programs. Check the requirements at adobe.com.

Check out our guide to LR:  The dPS Ultimate Guide to Getting Started in Lightroom for Beginners

Nothing is more satisfying than when you have a catalog of 30,000 images and you’re able to find your favorites in literally seconds by entering a few keywords and star ratings. Take some time to set it up, add a class or two, and you’ll be up and running!

Conclusion

Photo editing or post-processing is an integral part of the digital photography puzzle. Don’t think that you can skip this part and come away with satisfying images. It’s just as important to learn photo editing as it is to learn the basic functions of your camera. Only then, will you be able to bring that intentional photographic vision into post-processing and create great images

How are you going to start your post-processing journey? Is shooting in RAW and learning Lightroom in your future? Please share your thoughts with me on this subject.

The post Don’t Fear Photo Post-Processing – Shooting is Only the First Part of the Image Creation Process by Holly Higbee-Jansen appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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This eclipse photo shows the crazy dynamic range of today’s image sensors

23 Aug
Nikon D750 without any filters at 1/8s, F11, and ISO 100. Photo by Dan Plucinski

We talk about dynamic range (or lack thereof) a lot here at DPReview. But with all of the granular comparisons between the newest models, it’s easy to forget how incredible many of today’s image sensors have gotten in this regard. So here’s a quick example from photographer Dan Plucinski, who captured this photo in Oregon during the total solar eclipse on Monday.

The photograph on the right is a single image, not a composite. Plucinski simply took the shot on the left and pulled the shadows up in post; what you see on the right is the same image, with all of the shadow detail recovered.

The lesson is pretty straight-forward: always shoot Raw.


Photo by Dan Plucinski and used with permission.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Easily Add a New Element to Your Image Using Photoshop

09 Aug

This is an article for beginners in Photoshop. You will learn how to simply add an element to your photo and transform a daylight image into a nighttime one.

Open your selected images in Photoshop

First thing you want to do is select a photo of a mountain (in raw format). For that, open Photoshop then go to File > Open, it will open a window where you can select the photo that you want. Here we select raw file of the mountain:

Add element using photoshop 01

Raw adjustments first

Because we opened a raw file it is going to pop up in Adobe Camera Raw and we are going to retouch it to make it look like night first. Let’s set the White Balance towards the blue, so move the Temp slider to 4150. Then you want your Exposure to be very low so it looks dark, try -1,90, lower your Highlights to -84, add some Contrast to +39, boost the Blacks to +28, and lower the Whites to -46. Basically bring down the bright parts and boost the darker parts to give the image a night mood.

Add element moon photoshop 02

Now click on the sentence under your photo: ProPhoto.. and select Open in Photoshop as a Smart Object.

Add element photoshop 03

Open the element you want to add

Once you have done that you can come back and open an image or element to add to the first image. We are going to select a moon that we want to add to this mountain. Go to File > Open and select one photo of a moon in jpg.

Add moon photoshop 04

Arrange your workspace

You should have the photo of the moon and the mountain in tabs on the top of your Photoshop interface. If you don’t see that, you can go to Window > Arrange > Consolidate all tabs:

Add moon photoshop 05

For this tutorial we need a workspace with two windows on the right, one is to show Layers and one is for Properties. For that you need to select “3D” from the pull-down menu for Workspace in the upper right corner.

Add moon photoshop 06

Move the moon or element onto the mountain image

Go to your moon photo and grab the Move tool, it is the first icon on your left side (tools palette), the keyboard shortcut is V.

Add moon photoshop 07

Using the Move tool you need to click on the moon, hold your mouse button, drag it over to the tab of the mountain and let go of the mouse to drop it.

Add moon photoshop 08

Blending the images together

You can see that we have black around the moon still, so we are going to blend that out. In the layer window there are different options for Blending Modes, For this one we are going to use Screen. Pull it down and select Screen from the options.

Add moon photoshop 09

That took most of the black out.

Resize and place the element

To make the moon even bigger, go to Edit > Free Transform.

Add moon photoshop 10

Using the shift key to maintain its proportions, you can extend the moon by grabbing the corner and pulling it down.

Add moon photoshop 11

You can also move the moon or your element around, and see where you want to put it. It looks pretty cool already but now we are going to get into masking. For this you will need to click on the Eye icon next to the moon layer number (to turn it off) and click on the layer of the mountain to select it.

Add moon photoshop 12

You should see this now.

Select the Quick Select Tool (W on your keyboard) and drag your mouse over the sky to select it.

Add moon photoshop 13

Turn the moon layer back on and click on the little square icon at the bottom to create a layer mask (shown in red below).

Add moon photoshop 14

This is going to create a mask and because we have an active selection, a part of the moon is now hidden.

Add moon photoshop 15

If you want to reposition the moon you just have to select the moon layer and click on the little chain on the side to unlink the image of the moon from the mask.

Side note: if you make a mistake you can select Cmd/Ctrl+Z to go back or undo the last step.

PHOTO 16

Fine adjustments

You can see that there is a difference of color around the moon because of the layer, so to fix grab the Brush tool. (hit B for brush on the keyboard) or the select the Brush on the tool palette).

PHOTO 17

Make sure that the opacity is at 100% and that black is your foreground color. Right-click and set the hardness to zero. This makes your brush very soft and you can brush over the white to remove it.

Side note: Click on the Control and Alt keys to make your brush or any tool in Photoshop smaller or bigger.

Add moon photoshop 18

Add moon photoshop 20

Here you can see where I painted on the mask.

Finished!

Add moon photoshop 19

There you go! You have added a moon to your landscape!

I hope you liked this article and you feel more comfortable using Photoshop so you can add the moon or another element into your landscapes and create this cool effect.


If you enjoyed this tutorial and want to learn more about how to use Photoshop, check out Serge’s course Photoshop for Photographers 2017. Use the special promotional code – DPS65 – to get 65% off as a dPS reader!

The post How to Easily Add a New Element to Your Image Using Photoshop by Serge Ramelli appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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