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Posts Tagged ‘Image’

Harrowing image from Venezuela named 2018 World Press Photo of the Year (NSFW)

13 Apr

Finalists for 2018 World Press Photo of the Year were announced in February; now, a winning photo has been selected. Ronaldo Schemidt’s image titled ‘Venezuela Crisis’ takes the top prize, chosen from six semi-finalists and 73,044 total contest entries.

The image, displayed below, is disturbing and may not be suitable for children or viewing in the workplace. It depicts José Victor Salazar Balza on fire during a violent clash between police and protestors. He survived with first- and second-degree burns.

Title: Venezuela Crisis
© Ronaldo Schemidt, Agence France-Presse

José Víctor Salazar Balza (28) catches fire amid violent clashes with riot police during a protest against President Nicolas Maduro, in Caracas, Venezuela.

Schemidt’s image won first prize in the Spot News, Singles category. All winning images can be seen at the World Press Photo website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tech Insights teardown confirms Galaxy S9 uses Samsung and Sony image sensors

12 Apr

The analysts at Tech Insights have torn down the Samsung Galaxy S9 in order to analyze the device’s camera sensors and, as usual, the summary of their findings makes interesting reading for anyone who has an interest in image sensor technology. The main takeaway from Tech Insight’s report is that Samsung is once again using different image sensors by region.

Depending on where you buy the Galaxy S9, your device will either come with a Samsung S5K2L3 or Sony IMX345 chip.

Both imagers use a 3-layer stacked structure, comprising a CMOS image sensor, image signal processor (ISP) and DRAM. The Sony IMX345 is very similar in structure to the IMX400, the world’s first 3-layer stacked imager that was introduced on the Sony Xperia XZ flagship a year ago.

The Samsung S5K2L3 ISOCELL Fast sensor is the Korean manufacturer’s first 3-layer stacked model. In contrast to Sony’s custom solution with the DRAM in the middle, Samsung has opted for connecting the DRAM chip face-to-back on the ISP. The assembly also includes a dummy silicon structure filling the unoccupied space next to the DRAM chip.

This definitely won’t translate into noticeable performance or image quality differences between Galaxy S9 smartphones, but it does seem to show that Samsung is far from its goal of dethroning Sony to become #1 in the global image sensor market—it’s hard to dethrone the competition when you’re still using their sensors.

For a lot more detail on the sensor structure and assembly head over to Tech Insights, where you can also purchase even more in-depth reports if you really want to dive deep.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

02 Apr

My wife can be very unkind about my photography. She’ll often flick through my edits and ask me where the good shots are… I don’t think she has cottoned on to the fact that us creative types are deeply sensitive.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

She said to me recently:

Wouldn’t it be amazing to show people how many bad shots you take before you get any good ones?

She is most obviously not a photographer…

But then I started to think about how much time we photographers spend putting out our very best work, and only our best work – as we should!

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I started to think that perhaps she was right. Maybe it would be good to show you the photos I took before I got the shot before I nailed it. Definitely a good teaching idea.

There’s a book I love by Magnum photographers who published a collection of their contact sheets. It shows all the mediocre shots of some of the great masters of the art. That is kind of reassuring, right? If even the masters can’t get it right with one shot, there’s hope for the rest of us!

But also shows the process of refining an interesting scene into a great shot.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Photographic composition is all about being able to see interesting elements out there in the world and arranging them in a pleasing, interesting way. That sounds easy enough, right?

Here are some examples of what kinds of things I notice – and how I work the shot from being a good to great composition.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Scene One

I was in Hong Kong and I was totally awed by the density of skyscrapers, the busy port, intensely colorful lights and the tropical weather.

I am usually a great lover of capturing the emptiness of cities at first light – but for me, Hong Kong was all about evening and nighttime. The play of lights and finding intriguing moments to capture amongst the density of excitement of the city became my goal.

Walking around on my first evening in Hong Kong I saw a red sign in the blue twilight that caught my eye. It had a great contrast of colors. I noticed a nice shapely arrangement of skyscrapers in the distance that created an impressive background across the image.

I’d use a wide aperture to make them a bit soft and create more depth with my red sign. Good start, I’m thinking!

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

But this isn’t very interesting, right? So I tell myself, “Stop fixating on the red!” Red does tend to keep our attention longer than it really deserves. I start to look around for something else to add to the frame because the elements I have so far are not super-interesting.

I ask myself, “Where are the balance and harmony? Why did I cut my subject in half? Was I so drawn to the skyscrapers that my subject became a secondary thought?”

Yes, that is what I did. I fixated on the red sign and I took a rubbish shot because of it. Where was all my great compositional skill? The image could definitely be improved. So, I move around the scene and moved back.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Okay, this is getting better. Although – can you see in the top right-hand corner there is a little wedge of something. Now I know you can remove things in post-production – but I always aim to get the frame as perfect as possible in camera. It’s more fun for me that way. Plus, if you aren’t checking your corners you are not considering the whole frame, the whole composition.

There is one important point that is obvious here which I tell all of my students – check your corners! I am a believer that you will not create consistently great images if you do not practice total photography. Your subject is only one piece of the perfect puzzle you are attempting to create.

That image you have in your head needs to be constructed – all the pieces assembled with intent. This is a skill separate from camera skills that you must also practice. Just keep shooting with intent and it will come.

Getting back to my images, “Now I’m getting somewhere” I thought. These elements next to the sign, including the circular mirror (why didn’t I see that first? I blame the red!) and the orange light look very compelling to me. So I recompose ever so slightly…

That time though the orange light was off – it was blinking! It took me several frames to get the timing right and capture the orange light.

So after a few minutes of working the scene, I end up with this:

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Bang! Now, this is the one. Can you see what’s different in this shot? What I got by moving a little more, and also by timing the shot just right?

You want to get the most impact with every element in your photo. And those details in the mirror are very cool.  You can see how I made the reflection really pop in post-production by creating a circular mask just on the mirror and increasing the contrast, exposure, and clarity some. Sweet.

Scene two

I was in a very industrial part of the city. There were shipping containers everywhere and signs of work around the port. It was an intriguing scene because the ubiquitous skyscrapers were looming in the background.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

But the first shot I took, above, is not very interesting, even with decent composition (again it was me thinking that red is really good!) Can you see where I might have thought that there are some interesting elements here that I could work to juxtapose?

I walked up a little further and some vests caught my eye which could be juxtaposed with a backdrop of buildings. But the next shot is not right either.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I saw the work vests and the skyscrapers and thought of the disparity of wealth in this world, especially in cities like Hong Kong – it’s staggering! I got the idea to juxtapose these elements and work a narrative into the image (always a good idea).

I also like this contrast of imagery. You have the workers’ vests draped over the rails – almost like they are exhausted – with the strength and power of the vertical lined building next to them. There is lots of structure contrasted against the softness (weakness) of the workers’ vests.

Even if the narrative was coming together, the photo was not. So I moved around and see what else I could conjure up.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

In the shot above I moved back and took in a wider view of the scene. I was really liking this now. The shape of the shipping containers shot at this angle, with the skyscrapers looming in the background works. I still had that strong structure but now with the addition of dynamic lines. Juicy!

I wasn’t totally happy yet – the balance was still not right between the foreground and the background. I needed balance to make the composition neutral and let the viewer pick a side, so to speak.

So I moved a bit more and then – bang – I got the shot.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I am proud of this shot because it displays some of my favourite techniques to compose with – line and form.  These all help to construct a narrative.

I often see people on my workshops who will work a scene, but they stop before they have taken their very best shot because they are thinking “Oh, I can work this in post-production. I can crop it, etc.” Or they’re thinking that it’s “good enough”.

Working to find the very best composition definitely pays off. You will never regret spending those extra minutes just being still and looking at a scene for angles and new ideas. You need to make that kind of effort all of the time. And don’t forget to use your imagination. Make up a story. Open yourself to random crazy thoughts. You never know where they may take you creatively.

The cool thing is – you’re loving every moment because you’re out making images. What could be better right?

Scene Three

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

This last series of images was taken in Havana, Cuba. I was walking about with my assistant just absorbing some back streets when we came upon this scene with the factory smokestack over a residential neighborhood. Ouch! The light couldn’t have been better – it was just before sunset and the light was very warm.

My first instinct when I come upon something that strikes me is to take a shot. I think we all do it. But it is not necessarily a bad thing, as long as you accept that there is more to be done.

So I took the reactionary shot above. Dull and uninspired I thought. After looking at the scene a little more I felt motivated to get something, anything else.

I had a dedicated flash on my camera for some other types of images I was making so took this next shot, with the idea of getting a great image with the smoke. But this too was more of a reaction to the young man in the frame – maybe if I timed it right I would get a good pose.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Nope.

I realized at that point that I was shooting way too wide for what I saw in my head as a vision for this scene. It wasn’t totally clear what that was yet but I knew those first two shots were not it. No way.

I kept moving towards the smoke (at that point our eyes started to itch and our mouths had the taste of bad oil). Next, I took this image:

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

The man on the fourth floor stands out to me but not to my lens. Way too wide for that – still, this is somewhat better than the previous two shots. I didn’t really want to take an image of the old man sitting at the bottom left of the frame. It is really not my style to be invasive without being social to people first and I was interested in the smoke (fixated really).

At that point, though (a good 3-4 minutes since the first frame shot), I was after a great image. So I took one of the old guy sitting down (I said hello first):

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Better. This is a very good image but I wanted one where the smoke was more prominent. I knew I could create that image in my head if I just kept looking for it. So I walked a bit more. I still had my 17-40mm on the camera (I believe it or not, that was all I had with me) and got really close to the smokestack, regardless of my burning eyes and itchy skin.

But right underneath the smokestack, it became substantially more ominous and horrible and I instantly knew how I felt about it – confused and frightened. So I took this last shot and was really pleased with it.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

It is an odd composition without a lot of “rules”, which I feel is reflected well in the chaotic nature of the wires and the industrialness of the location, even though there were children practically under my feet. Finally, I got my smoke!

Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed that little meander through my shots. I like to think that turning my head inside out can give you a bit of insight into the creative process.

Here are the key ideas points covered in this article:

  • Find a subject or scene that you are fascinated by.
  • Work the scene until you have the best shot you can get.
  • Move around!
  • Be patient – wait for the best light, best weather, interesting people or expressions – whatever it takes.
  • Have perseverance.
  • Use your imagination to create narratives. Open up.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I would love to know if you found this process I go through to capture my shots useful? Does it help to see that we all take a bunch of boring shots? Taking photos is more than just pressing a shutter (anyone can do that), but an artist is something we all are inside and photography is our journey/path in finding that inner artist.

Please comment below and let me know what you have learned or how this might have helped you. Thanks!

The post Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Huawei unveils the P20 Pro with triple camera and large 1/1.7-inch image sensor

27 Mar

Huawei has just unveiled its latest flagship smartphone: the P20 Pro. And just as the rumors and leaks that have been floating around the Web for weeks predicted, the new model is the first smartphone to feature a triple camera setup.

Like in previous Huawei models, the camera has been developed in cooperation with Leica, and a main RGB sensor is accompanied by a high-resolution monochrome imager that serves several purposes: it provides depth estimation for the simulated bokeh effect, improves detail and noise levels by merging multiple shots, and helps with digital zooming. New on the P20 Pro is a third, dedicated tele-camera.

That said, Huawei hasn’t just stuck a third sensor and lens onto its existing dual-camera system, the P20 Pro is more innovative than that in several ways:

  • The main camera comes with an unusually large 1/1.7-inch sensor, which is approximately twice the size of the smaller sensors in most direct competitors. At F1.8 the aperture is not the largest, but thanks to the increase in sensor surface the P20 Pro’s main sensor is still capable of capturing around 20 percent more light than most rivals.
  • The main camera sensor also features a Quad Bayer structure with a total pixel count of 40MP. It outputs data binned in 2 × 2 pixel units, resulting in 10MP image output with better detail and lower noise levels.
  • The P20 Pro’s optically-stabilized tele-camera offers 3x zoom factor—approximately a 80mm equivalent focal length—significantly longer reach than the 2x tele-modules in the iPhone X, Samsung Galaxy S9 Plus, or similar high-end devices. Huawei has been able to implement this longer reach while the 20MP monochrome is already contributing to decent zoom quality at 2x, allowing the tele to focus on 3x and larger magnifications.
The Huawei P20 Pro triple camera: Main camera at the center, monochrome camera on the left, tele module on the right.

Huawei claims significantly better low-light capabilities of the large main sensor, with ISO values up to 102400 allowing for usable exposures in very dim conditions. Other imaging features include phase detection and laser assistance in the AF system, predictive focus, motion detection, and a zero shutter lag for minimal delay before capture.

The rest of the specifications are worthy of a high-end device as well. The P20 Pro is powered by Huawei’s Kirin 970 chipset and 6GB of RAM, it offers a 4,000 mAh battery with quick-charge, and features 128GB of internal storage. Images can be viewed and composed on a 6.1-inch Full View display with minimal bezels.

The P20 Pro will be available in Europe from April for 900 Euros (approximately $ 1120 USD)—no information on availability in other regions has been released yet. In addition to the P20 Pro, Huawei has also launched the P20 smartphone, which is powered by the same chipset but comes with a smaller 5.8-inch screen and a more conventional dual-camera module. It will retail for 650 Euros (approximately $ 800 USD).

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Samsung wants to dethrone Sony, reach #1 in the global image sensor market

17 Mar

According to a new report out of South Korea, Samsung is increasing production of its ISOCELL image sensors at its Hwasung, South Korea location in a bid to clinch the #1 spot in image sensors worldwide.

However, this feat is definitely easier said than done. Current market leader Sony has a comfortable advantage over its South Korean rival, and certainly won’t go down without a fight. In the lucrative smartphone segment alone, Sony currently has a 46 percent market share versus Samsung’s much smaller 19 percent.

That said, technologically at least, Samsung is well-placed to take on the challenge. Its latest Galaxy Note 8 and Galaxy S9/S9 Plus devices all come with innovative imaging technologies and offer excellent camera performance built on Samsung’s own sensor technology.

The company rebranded its image sensor range as Isocell in June 2017. Since then, Samsung has not only expanded its high-end sensor offerings, it also designed low-cost image sensor modules that are easy to implement into devices by other manufacturers. Several of those, for example Xiaomi and Meizu, are already using Samsung image sensors.

However, market leadership cannot be achieved with smartphones alone. Samsung is also planning to grow in the automotive space where CMOS sensors are increasingly used in the autonomous vehicle space and for other applications. In this segment, Samsung will face stiff competition from the likes of Bosch and Continental.

Whoever ends up ruling the image sensor market, a large company like Samsung challenging Sony’s quasi-monopoly for image sensors can only be good news for consumers.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not – The Art of Self Image Critique

15 Mar

One of the common issues that amateur or newbie photographers often have is deciding which photos to include in their portfolio or website. The great thing about photography is that it is subjective, and every person will have different ways of assessing if they like a photo or not, doing an image critique.

You should always aim to photograph what you enjoy with your own unique style and vision. But sometimes, especially if you are looking to earn money from your images, you will need to consider other people’s tastes and needs. Here is a quick guide on how to know if your photo is good or not.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

1. Is it Technically Good?

Different photographers have different workflows, but often for most, it starts with actually checking if a photo is technically good because let’s be honest, a blurred or poorly focused photo isn’t going to make it into your portfolio.

So a good first step when evaluating a particular photo is checking that it is sharp with good tonal range, good contrast between shadows and highlights and focused correctly on the right part of the scene.

Of course, there might be occasions when a photo might be slightly off in terms of focus, for example, but it still works and if you want to showcase it in your portfolio that’s fine. But the majority of the time, a blurred photo can be discounted.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

Image not sharp and not completely in focus.

2. Is it Missing Something?

Sometimes you can look at one of your photos and you can tell that it is missing something.

It might be a quiet cobbled street that just looks empty without a person in the shot. Or it might be a landscape image that’s missing a point of interest. These are the type of photos that you look at and think, “I wish I had done this” or “if only there was something or someone in that spot”.

If you think that about one of your images, then it’s probably missing that certain something that would make it a great photo.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

Whilst it’s a nice landscape and sunrise, there is no point of interest. Would have improved with a boat in the lake or similar point of interest.

3. The Stop Test

One of my favorite tests when I edit a collection of my photos is what I call the “stop test”. As you flick through one of your galleries of photos – whether that’s on your smartphone, your computer, or even your camera, there are usually some photos that make you stop.

Sometimes it might just be a split second longer than usual, but you did still pause briefly from continuing to flick through the set to look at that one photo.

This is usually a good sign that there is clearly something about that particular shot that grabs your attention. If it can grab your attention it might grab the attention of others as well.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

4. Are You Being Sentimental?

One thing that is really easy to do, as a photographer, is to get sentimental about a photo. Regardless of how detached you want to make yourself when editing your photos, there will still be that part of you that remembers what it took to capture the shot.

It might have been that you spent hours getting to a location or maybe it reminds you of a memorable encounter with someone interesting. No photographer is a robot and we are all guilty of being sentimental about some of our images.

So try to ask yourself, if you are unsure about an image, if it is actually a good photo, or you are just being sentimental.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

Even though it took a while to get up to this point to be able to capture the photo, the lack of light means the image doesn’t work.

 5. Is it Different Than What Already Exists?

In this era of digital photography, often the biggest challenge is capturing unique photos. But that is also a good test of whether you should include a photo in your portfolio or not.

It could be that the photo you have taken is perfectly fine, but if you have managed to capture something unique that doesn’t already exist, then it might be a great photo. The key is to search what already exists and see if your image is better or different than others.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

6. Can You See it Being Used?

Even if you are not planning on selling your photos, trying to envision them being used in real life scenarios can often be a good guide as to how good they are.

When you look at your image can you imagine it being used on the cover of a magazine or to illustrate something for a feature or story? Can you see it on a billboard, flyer, or even a postcard? If you can imagine your photo in those scenarios then it’s probably a good photo and you should include it in your portfolio.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

7. Go With Your Gut

For all of the different ways that you can critique or evaluate a photo, sometimes you just have to go with your gut feeling.

Sometimes you could be proved right and that image that you were unsure of, leads to work or even ends up making sales. Always remind yourself that photography is subjective and at some point, we all look at a photo we’ve taken and just have a good feeling about it.

How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

Taken at a local market in London, it was a last minute decision to submit this image to my agency. Since then it has made over $ 350 worth of sales.

Conclusion

These are just some of the ways that can help you assess if a photo is good or not. But remember that these are not hard and fast rules that you should adhere to all the time.

Not every photo will fall into every point above and that doesn’t make it a bad photo. Use these points as a guide when you are really stuck on an image and if in doubt go with your gut feeling.

Read more on image critique tips in these dPS articles:

  • How to Critique Your Images Objectively: Ask for Other Points of View
  • Constructive Photography Critique: How to Give and Receive with Grace
  • 4 Ways Self-Critique Can Improve Your Photography

The post How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not – The Art of Self Image Critique by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

22 Feb

What is it that makes one picture appear dull and another more striking? What is it that makes some tones appear detailed and others smooth and transient? The answer to both of these questions involves the issues of color hue, color purity, and tone distribution.

Prague A - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

This street scene in Prague is the original underexposed camera image.

Prague B - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

The same image after tonal and color adjustments have been applied.

The science of color and tone

All color detail is determined by these three elements. In the Photoshop/Lightroom world, you’ll recognize these terms as HSL or Hue, Saturation, and Luminance. The world of photography is both an art and a science. The science part is filled with graphs, measurements, and strange words that most people don’t encounter every day.

These terms come from the scientific vocabulary of engineers, chemists, and mathematicians in the photographic trade. When digital cameras were introduced to the general public years ago, suddenly everybody could push around the colors and tonal range in their own pictures. While Adobe Photoshop provided a serious workshop, it showed up with a boatload of technical color science terms.

Unfortunately, if you don’t fully understand the terms, you may not be taking full advantage of the controls they provide. In this article, I’ll do my best to bring these terms down to Earth and make them understandable. We’ll get past the technical jargon and get into the practical application of these terms.

Hue, Saturation, and Lightness

Hue, Saturation, Lightness (luminance) are the irreducible minimum building blocks involved in good color editing and reproduction. While there are many more issues to be addressed in the processing of an image, these three are the make-or-break elements that must be understood and adjusted if you want your color images to catch a viewer’s eye.

Incidentally, when editing your images, these elements should be addressed in that very order; value (hue), intensity (saturation), and tonality (luminance). While hue and saturation concern color, luminance refers to the tonal structure of an image; pretty much an issue of dark versus light.

The Saturation slider affects the intensity of the color in an image. This is a powerful tool; exercise restraint.

Genoa A - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

The Saturation effect on a Genoa Italy cathedral – normal saturation levels.

How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Genoa B - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

None.

HSL Dialog Sat Low - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Genoa C - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Oversaturated.

HSL Dialog Sat High - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

A Primer on Image Detail

Contrast usually refers to the overall light-to-dark extremes of an image but the real power of post-production editing is in pushing the tonal values around inside the overall range.

But if you really want to make the detail in your image stand out, you must adjust the internal contrast of the image. The biggest difference-maker adjustment should be the middle tones of your images; tones in-between the lightest and the darkest in your image.

TrafalgarSq A - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Trafalgar Sq O Levels - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

The middle slider in Photoshop’s Levels dialog is referred to as the gamma slider. Gamma is another one of those legacy scientific terms that you can think of as a “mid-tone” adjustment. Moving this elementary slider from left to right actually shifts the entire middle range of tones from lighter to darker.

TrafalgarSq B - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

This picture of the King Charles statue in London’s Trafalgar Square is backlit and was dark, but a simple middle tone adjustment opened up the shadows and revealed hidden detail.

TrafalgarSq A Levels - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Photoshop’s Levels tool is the most basic of tonal controls. There are actually several much more effective tonal shaping tools available in Photoshop and even more comprehensive controls in Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom. We won’t get into a thorough discussion of these tone adjustment tools and workflow recommendations in this article (perhaps at a later time).

Leaves A - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Leaves B - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

This picture of winter leaves was fairly well exposed but required both tonal and color adjustments to reveal the rich colors in the original scene.

Camera Raw dialog - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Editing for Tonality

There’s a reason why tone adjustment should be your number one issue in image preparation; even more critical than color accuracy.

Your eyesight has tonal perception and interpretation capabilities that far exceed the dynamic range of any digital camera. Make no mistake, capturing seven stops of light range is an amazing feat. But capturing this wide range of tones doesn’t automatically translate into detail, image definition, or good tonal distinction.

Properly reassigning those internal tones to more closely match what your eyes see is where the real editing magic happens. Hang with me here because this will get a bit involved, but I think it will definitely be worth your time.

LinearCapture Eye Camera - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

This chart shows the difference between the way your eye registers light and how your camera records it.

Camera View – Human View

Your camera’s image sensor records light quite differently than your eye perceives it. The camera actually records a lot of data from the lighter portion of the scene and very little data from the darker portion. The image sensors capture light in a linear fashion. Unfortunately, humans view the lighting in scenes in a logarithmic fashion.

You might say that original camera files usually benefit from a “fashion” adjustment, generally lightening the middle tones. Camera images that don’t get their tonal values adjusted almost always lose detail in the darker areas of the image. Virtually all camera images benefit from internal adjustments.

Chrominance and Luminance Explained

Chrominance deals with the color component of an image while luminance deals with the contrast or tonality component of an image.

Chroma refers to the color in an image while luma describes the non-color or tonal part. Achromatic is a fancy scientific word that is pretty simple to understand. Remember your high school English… the prefix “a” means “without,” so a-chromatic literally means without color.

In the HSL model of color, hue, and saturation fall in the chrominance column while tonality and contrast are on the luminance column (the structural or tonal backbone of an image).

Basic Luminosity Adjustments

Where does the term “luminance” come from? Light is measured in lumens. A lumen is the smallest measurable unit of light visible to the human eye. Luminosity then is the measure of lumens reflecting from (or transmitted through) a light source and perceived by your eye. The more lumens, the brighter the light. Light measurements are also made in increments called candelas. A candela is roughly the value of light produced by a single household candle.

Photo by Akshay Paatil on Unsplash

Just as “horsepower” is a carryover index of a measurement of power (relating to the pulling strength of multiple horses) candelas is an index of the cumulative light emitted from multiple candles. These legacy terms are sometimes confusing, and it would be nice if photographic color science terminology were simplified for those just entering the process, but until then, you’ll have to get acclimated.

I’ll take it slow, as you can easily drown in the scientific terminology minutia. I’ll keep the terminology on a basic digital imaging level so that you can make practical use of what you learn.

Basic Color Science

Ryb-colorwheel

As stated before, all color is composed of three elements; value, intensity, and luminosity. Value (or hue) refers to the “color” of color, or what differentiates red from orange or purple. Intensity (or saturation) refers to the purity color, distinguishing pastels to pungent colors (the more white light is combined with pure color, the more the color strength is diluted). Luminosity is the measure of the brightness and relates to the image’s lightness or darkness.

Hue (value) differentiates one color from another. Saturation (intensity) determines the purity of color. Luminosity (brightness) determines tonality.

The detail in digital imaging terminology is the degree to which colors and tones distinguish themselves from each other. While hue, saturation, and luminance all play a significant role in detailing an image, the heavy lifting of detail is done by luminance or the shaping of the internal tones in an image. Detail is a product of contrast, and contrast is almost completely controlled by the luminance element. This is why post-production professionals perform all their sharpening adjustments in the luminance channel exclusively.

Shadows Highlights dialog - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Photoshop’s Highlight/Shadow dialog box

Camera Raw dialog - How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality

Adobe Camera Raw main dialog.

Shaping Light

Contrast, like audio equalization, cannot be effectively accomplished by using a linear (bass-treble) type control such is the luminance slider in the HSL panel which simply lightens or darkens an image. The effective shaping of an image requires the individual adjustment of five specific tonal regions of an image; highlight, quarter-tone, mid-tone, three-quarter tone and shadow. I use a variety of controls to shape my tonal contrast.

Ansel Adams once stated, “Half the image is created in the camera, the other half is created in the darkroom.” Though you may never use a darkroom to produce a photographic image, the essence of his statement is still true. Capturing pixels with your camera is only your first step in producing a good picture, what you do with the image that comes out of your camera will determine your skills as a photographer.

Digital photography provides almost limitless avenues for personal expression. Shaping the color and tonality in your images is the backbone of great photography. Determine to learn something new about this fabulous art form every day. Push pixels around and stay focused.

The post How to Understand the Science of Photography and Technical Terms for Mastering Image Tonality by Herb Paynter appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Panasonic unveils ‘industry-first’ 8K organic image sensor with global shutter

22 Feb

Panasonic has developed an 8K image sensor capable of shooting 60p video, with wide dynamic range and global shutter. The latter removes the ‘rolling shutter’ effect from stills and video. The sensor combines an organic photosensitive film that sits atop CMOS circuitry, circumventing one of the biggest problems with traditional global shutter CMOS chips: co-located photosensitive and charge storage areas that compete with one another for space within the surface area of each pixel. This allows Panasonic’s chip to comparatively achieve far greater photosensitive area (better low light performance) and expansive charge capacity (wide dynamic range), and perform some other unique tricks.

Comparing typical BSI CMOS image sensor design (left), Panasonic’s new OPF/CMOS image sensor (right). Note how thin the OPF layer is compared to a traditional silicon photodiode. This allows a large area to be devoted to circuitry, and also means each pixel can accept a wider cone of incident light. This increases the CRA (chief ray angle) from the traditional 30-40º to 60º.

In June of 2013, Fujifilm and Panasonic announced a collaboration that got a lot of photography nerds talking: together, the two companies had developed an ‘industry-leading’ organic / CMOS sensor technology that replaces the silicon photodiode in a conventional CMOS chip with a much thinner, high absorption coefficient organic photoelectric conversion (OPC) layer. A transparent electrode sits on top of this organic photoconductive film (OPF) and modulates its photosensitivity when a voltage is applied. This approach brings a number of advantages, like the ability to accept more oblique light rays, higher pixel capacities and global shutter.

Advantages include the ability to accept more oblique light rays, higher pixel capacities and global shutter

It’s been many years since we first heard about the collaboration, but it now appears to be at the heart of Panasonic’s latest announcement: the news that it has developed an ‘industry-first’ 8K global shutter sensor that uses OPF/CMOS tech to perform all of its tricks. Panasonic claims its new sensor can capture 8K images and 60fps video while offering incredible dynamic range, global shutter, and a built-in electronically-controlled variable ND filter function.

At face value, this sensor seems to offer quite a bit more than the backlit CMOS sensor with global shutter announced by Sony last week. Furthermore, Sony has only so far managed to build a 1.46-megapixel sensor using its pixel-parallel ADCs, while Panasonic seems to have an 8K organic/CMOS sensor already operational. Ostensibly, Panasonic’s technology shouldn’t place any particular restrictions on pixel size – which likely explains how it was able to achieve high resolution via small pixels – while Sony’s approach of an ADC for every pixel presumably places some size constraints on the design.

This Figure shows the dynamic range capabilities of the sensor’s ‘high saturation’ mode (left) and the advantages of its global shutter functionality (right)

Technical Details

Organic/CMOS sensors are able to offer these capabilities by separating the photosensitive area (the organic light-sensitive material) from the signal processing area (all the circuitry), and by then modulating the organic photoconductive film to turn its photosensitivity on or off (or tune it). A transparent electrode sits on top of the OPF – which spans the entire sensor – and the application of increasing voltage to the electrode makes the OPF more photosensitive. This allows for fine tuning of the photosensitivity of the sensor, and the ability to turn all pixels on or off simultaneously.

The organic film layer allows all pixels to be turned on or off simultaneously

The separation of the photoelectric conversion part from the circuitry allows each to be optimized independently, rather than the optimization of one placing constraints on the other. This, combined with how thin the OPF layer is compared to a traditional silicon photodiode, has allowed Panasonic to dedicate a large area to circuitry, separating the (traditionally somewhat co-located) photoelectric conversion and charge storage parts. The result? Large capacitors that allow for enormous full-well capacity: Panasonic claims its sensor can collect up to 450,000 photoelectrons per pixel, which is insane and means this sensor is likely to have a very wide dynamic range. By comparison, we’re more used to seeing an order of magnitude less full-well capacity: ~45,000 photoelectrons per pixel in full frame cameras.

‘In-pixel gain switching technology’ also allows the Panasonic sensor to switch to a high efficiency mode, though in this mode the pixels saturate at 4,500 photoelectrons – yielding far less dynamic range but enhanced low light ability.

Panasonic shows off the incredible dynamic range of this new organic sensor.

In this latest design, these benefits have been combined with a new “in-pixel capacitive coupled noise cancellation technique” which can suppress pixel reset noise very quickly, even when you’re shooting at really high resolution… say, 8K.

The organic layer is also the source of the electronically-controlled ND function. By changing how much voltage you apply to the organic layer, you can change its sensitivity and therefore have it capture more or less light per unit time. You can see the relationship between applied voltage and signal, with higher voltages making the OPF more light sensitive (increasing photoconductivity), and lower voltages making the sensor less sensitive. VH (high voltage) is the default voltage applied to make the OPF maximally sensitive, while VL (low voltage) simulates the effect of a 5 stop ND filter.

This would, ostensibly, save photographers and videographers from needing to carry around a set of ND filters, allowing you to adjust to challenging lighting situations in-camera.

This figure shows the stepless, electronically-controlled ND filter functionality of the Panasonic sensor.

Finally, the organic layer is also the source of the global shutter function. Global shutter involves capturing/reading all of the pixels on a sensor at once. Most CMOS sensors read the image row-by-row, leading to ‘rolling shutter’ distortion where fast moving objects look warped because the bottom part of the object was actually captured a split second later than its top.

This is what Sony addressed with its new BSI CMOS sensor announced last week. That sensor achieves global shutter by adding an ADC to every single pixel rather than every column of pixels. Unfortunately, this approach is currently difficult to scale—which is why Sony has only managed to put it into a 1.46MP sensor with fairly large pixels thus far.

Panasonic’s design achieves this same trick by taking advantage of the ability to turn the entire organic layer on or off simultaneously. At the end of an exposure, the voltage applied to the transparent electrode is simply switched off, effectively turning off the photosensitivity of all pixels simultaneously. This decouples the end of an exposure from read-out, which can still be done sequentially, line-by-line. Impressively, Panasonic’s sensor can operate in this manner “even driving a large number of pixels like the 8K sensor”.

The sensor’s global shutter functionality eliminates rolling shutter distortion caused by reading the sensor row-by-row, rather than all at once.

What’s Next?

So, are we going to see this in any upcoming Panasonic video cameras? Will the Panasonic GH6 or its best high-end Varicam shoot 8K/60p with insane dynamic range, global shutter, and built-in electronic ND filter? We’d sure like to hope so, but probably not.

Remember, this organic/CMOS sensor technology was first introduced as a major breakthrough in 2013. To the best of our knowledge, not a single camera has used that technology in the intervening 5 years. Apple recently acquired InVisage QuantumFilm technology, which uses a film layer to to roll-off highlights for 2-3 stops of additional dynamic range. All this makes us wonder if the tech is really ready for prime time.

Not that we shouldn’t be excited about this breakthough—those are some really incredible specs. We’re just tempering our excitement with a little bit of experience… and maybe a touch of patience and skepticism.


Panasonic Develops Industry’s-First 8K High-Resolution, High-Performance Global Shutter Technology using Organic-Photoconductive-Film CMOS Image Sensor

The new technology enables 8K high resolution and high picture quality imaging without motion distortion, even in extremely bright scenes.

Osaka Japan, – Panasonic Corporation today announced that it has developed a new technology which realizes 8K high-resolution (36M pixels), 60fps framerate, 450k high-saturation electrons and global shutter [1] imaging with sensitivity modulation function simultaneously, using a CMOS image sensor with an organic photoconductive film (OPF). In this OPF CMOS image sensor, the photoelectric-conversion part and the circuit part are independent. By utilizing this OPF CMOS image sensor’s unique structure, we have been able to newly develop and incorporate high-speed noise cancellation technology and high saturation technology in the circuit part. And, by using this OPF CMOS image sensor’s unique sensitivity control function to vary the voltage applied to the OPF, we realize global shutter function. The technology that simultaneously achieves these performances is the industry’s first*1.

With the technology, it is possible to capture images at 8K resolution, even in high contrast scenes, such as a field under strong sunlight and shaded spectator seats under a stadium roof. Moreover, by utilizing the global shutter function that enables simultaneous image capture by all pixels, it is expected to be able to capture moving objects instantaneously without distortion, be utilized for multi viewpoint cameras (performing multi-view synchronized imaging using plural cameras) and used in fields requiring high-speed and high-resolution, such as machine vision and ITS monitoring. In addition, conventionally, even in scenes where it was necessary to utilize different ND filters [2] according to capturing conditions, the technology realizes a new electronically-controlled variable ND filter function which enables stepless adjustment of the OPF sensitivity [3] merely by controlling the voltage applied to the OPF.

The new technology has the following advantages.

  1. 8K resolution, 60fps framerate, 450k saturation electrons and global shutter function are realized simultaneously.
  2. Switching between high sensitivity mode and high saturation mode is possible using gain switching function.
  3. The ND filter function can be realized steplessly by controlling the voltage applied to the OPF.

This Development is based on the following technologies.

  1. “OPF CMOS image sensor design technology”, in that, the photoelectric-conversion part and the circuit part can be designed independently.
  2. “In-pixel capacitive coupled noise cancellation technique” which can suppress pixel reset noise at high speed even at high resolution
  3. “In-pixel gain switching technology” that can achieve high saturation characteristics
  4. “Voltage controlled sensitivity modulation technology” that can adjust the sensitivity by changing the voltage applied to the OPF.

Panasonic holds 135 Japanese patents and 83 overseas patents (including pending) related to this technology.

Panasonic will present some of these technologies at the international academic conference: ISSCC (International Solid-State Circuit Conference) 2018 which will be held in San Francisco on February 11 – 15, 2018.

Notes:

*1: As of February 14, 2018, according to Panasonic data.

More on the Technology

1. “OPF CMOS image sensor design technology”, in that, the photoelectric-conversion part and the circuit part can be designed independently.

The OPF CMOS image sensor has a unique structure, in which, the OPF performs a photoelectric conversion and the circuit area performs charge storage and signal readout functions completely independently. Using this OPF CMOS image sensor structure, we developed high-speed noise cancellation technology and high saturation technology in the circuit area which has a large available space. As a result, it is possible to realize simultaneously 8K resolution, 60fps framerate readout, wide dynamic range [4] (by achieving a high saturation level) and global shutter function, which are normally traded off.

2. “In-pixel capacitive coupled noise cancellation technique” which can suppress pixel reset noise at high speed even at high resolution

Because the OPF CMOS image sensor has a structure in which the OPF and the charge storage part are connected by metal plugs, accumulated charges cannot be completely read out. Therefore, there is a problem that it is affected by reset noise at the time of resetting the pixel (signal charge storage node). And, in a high-resolution sensor, such as an 8K sensor, it is necessary to drive large loads exceeding 4000 pixels aligned in the vertical direction at the same time as the time of noise cancellation, and therefore, the long time it takes to suppress noise is a problem. So, we developed a new structure that cancels pixel reset noise at high speed, even when high resolution pixels have to be driven, by using Panasonic’s original semiconductor device technology and the newly developed “in-pixel capacitive coupled noise canceller”. In this structure, the reset noise is suppressed at high speed by using the negative feedback loop provided for each pixel.

3. “In-pixel gain switching technology” that can achieve high saturation characteristics

In the OPF CMOS image sensor, by incorporating a large capacitor in the circuit part with a large available area, it is possible to realize both high sensitivity mode and high saturation mode with the same pixel structure merely by switching modes from the camera system. In the high sensitivity mode, it is possible to capture data up to a light intensity of 4.5k electrons with high sensitivity. Furthermore, by switching to the high saturation mode, it is possible to capture data up to a light intensity of 450k electrons. In this way, since the high saturation mode can capture up to 10 times the high sensitivity mode, it is possible to clearly display the fine winding structure of the lamp filaments, in which bright part gradation cannot be expressed, because it becomes overexposure in high sensitivity mode, as shown in Fig. 3 (a). Even in a scene with high contrast, such as shown in Fig. 5, from the facial expression of the person in the shadow of the stadium roof to the blue sky and clouds during a mid-summer day, and such as shown in Fig. 6, from the dimly lit room to the sunny garden, it will be possible to capture brilliant images without overexposure or underexposure.

4. “Voltage controlled sensitivity modulation technology” that can adjust the sensitivity by changing the voltage applied to the OPF.

The OPF CMOS image sensor can change the sensitivity of the OPF simply by controlling the voltage applied to the OPF. By utilizing this function, we can realize the following functions which could not be realized with conventional silicon image sensors.

Sensitivity Modulation Example 1: Global shutter function which can capture all pixels simultaneously at 8K resolution

By controlling ON / OFF of the voltage applied to the OPF and controlling the sensitivity of the OPF, we realize the “global shutter function” capable of imaging all pixels at the same time, even driving a large number of pixels like the 8K sensor. By capturing with the global shutter function, as shown in Fig. 3 (b), the letters on the rotating body are read sharply without distortion. In addition, as shown in Fig. 7, even at the time of high speed moving object capturing, such as when driving on a highway or at industrial inspection, capturing without distortion becomes possible.

In the conventional global shutter type silicon image sensor, it is necessary to add new elements such as transfer circuits and charge storage capacitors in order to accumulate charges simultaneously in all pixels. As a result, the area of the photodiode and that of the additional circuits must compete for space, there is a problem that the pixel size cannot be reduced and the amount of saturation electrons cannot be increased. On the other hand, in the OPF CMOS image sensor, since there is no need for additional elements, it is possible to realize small cell, high resolution sensors, and by incorporating large capacitors in the circuit part with a large available area, accurate imaging with no distortion from dark scenes to extremely bright scenes is possible. For example, as shown in Fig. 9, with the OPF CMOS image sensor, when buildings are photographed while panning [5] at high speed, even in scenes with high contrast like a bright sky and dark windows, it is possible to acquire image data maintaining all gradations of the whole area without distortion.

Sensitivity Modulation Example 2: “Electrical ND Filter Technology” which can change sensitivity continuously and steplessly

Conventionally it has been necessary to provide a plurality of ND filters according to photographing conditions and change them many times. On the other hand, in the OPF CMOS image sensor, merely by controlling the voltage applied to the OPF (VITO in Fig. 8) and changing the sensitivity of the OPF to the desired value, it is possible to electrically implement the ND filter function. By using this function, it becomes possible to simplify the photographic equipment and continuously, steplessly control the sensitivity which could not be realized with a conventional silicon sensor. Therefore, the possibility of capturing according to the scene is expanded.


In the future, we will utilize this OPF CMOS image sensor technology in various applications such as broadcasting cameras, surveillance cameras, industrial inspection cameras, automotive cameras, etc., and will contribute to realize high resolution, high speed and high precision imaging and sensing functions.

Technical Terms:

[1] Global shutter:
Shutter operation which can captures the image at the same time with all pixels. Organic CMOS image sensors operate in rolling shutter mode in which exposure and shutter operation is executed row by row.
[2] ND filter
Abbreviated name of neutral density filter.
A filter that functions to evenly absorb light in the visible range and reduce only the light intensity without affecting color.
[3] Sensitivity modulation
The photoelectric conversion efficiency is changed according to the control. In the OPF CMOS image sensor, the photoelectric conversion efficiency can be changed by controlling the voltage applied to the OPF.
[4] Dynamic Range
Range of brightness that can be imaged.
(Ratio between the largest and the smallest values of brightness.)
[5] Panning
A technique for capturing wide scenes by moving the framing in the horizontal direction with a fixed camera, which is a common video capturing technique.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Rescue an Image in Lightroom With Split Toning

17 Feb

Split toning is one of the most overlooked features in Lightroom (or any post-processing program for that matter). It’s a technique used mostly in the film industry and is apparent in just about any action movie poster. You know the ones, where the skin tones are super warm, while the background and shadows are cool and blue.

That’s all split toning is: adding a hue to your highlights and an opposing (but complementary) hue to your shadows. Most of the time, the best colors to stick with are an orange tone for your highlights and a blue tone for your shadows, although there are certainly exceptions.

How to Rescue an Image in Lightroom With Split Toning

Before processing.

How to Rescue an Image in Lightroom With Split Toning

After processing and split toning added.

Great location, less than ideal lighting conditions

The location was Ke’e Beach, an incredible spot on Kauai that is literally at the end of the road on the north side of the island. I was there with my workshop students and we had realized earlier on in the day that shooting conditions were going to be tough.

A think layer of vog (volcanic fog) had blown over all the way from the Big Island. It covered all of Kauai’s north side in a thick, desaturated haze. This made shooting conditions quite challenging. On top of all that, the ocean was quite angry that day! A rough sea is normal in the winter on Kauai, but this was something else.

Our goal at Ke’e Beach was to photograph the waves that exploded out of the sea and then fanned out, almost like seashells. But because of the conditions, the waves were just getting obliterated before they could fan out. Still, we didn’t give up. We focused on capturing the anger and drama of the ocean and everyone walked away with some great shots.

Split toning to the rescue

In the video below, I process an image from that evening from start to finish inside of Adobe Lightroom Classic CC. The problem with the shot is that it came out of the camera looking quite dull. Because of the thick haze and everything in the shot being backlit, the resulting RAW file looked almost monochromatic. The sky was grey and looked overcast, the rocks and water were dark, and it just looked uninspiring.

?

A common technique that a lot of photographers reach for in these situations is just embracing it and converting the image to black and white. But, if you’re looking for something new to add to your bag of tricks, split-toning can be quite effective at saving images as well.

For this image, I started out by doing what I could in the Basic module to bring out details, add contrast, and make the image pop. After a few other adjustments, I made my way down to the Split Toning module, adding a warm orange tone to the sky (the highlights) and a cool blue/teal tone to the rocks and water (the shadows).

Here are the settings I used in the Basic panel.

These are the Split Toning settings I applied.

The result is a dramatic looking shot that both effectively shows the power of the ocean that evening and also gives the impression of a warm, vibrant sunset.

After

Conclusion

Split toning is a powerful and fun technique. It can be used both to enhance already great images or save otherwise dull ones. When you discover this technique for the first time, you’ll have a blast going through your images and trying it out in different situations. And, just a heads up, it can be used on either color or black and white images. Regardless of the image type, you’re simply adding one hue to the highlights and another to the shadows.

Have you used split toning in Lightroom before or is this completely new to you? If you have done it, please share your favorite split toned image in the comments below. If not, give it a go and share your results.

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Google has removed the ‘View Image’ button from Image Search

17 Feb
Bye bye ‘View Image’ button…

On Monday, we told you about licensing deal between Getty Images and Google that would result in the end of the “View Image” button on Google Image Search. Today, we get to see the fruits of that deal, as Google Images officially removes View Image, forcing users to actually visit the site that hosts an image, rather than going straight to the image file on its servers.

The deal between Getty and Google served to end a legal feud that began in 2016, a lawsuit in which Getty accused Google of “promoting piracy” by linking to high-resolution copyrighted images without watermarks.

Getty claimed that Google was creating “accidental pirates” who would find legally licensed images through Google Image Search and, since they weren’t required to go to the actual website where these images were hosted (and properly credited with copyright notice), they would simply download the high-res file. Instead of settling this question in court, Getty and Google struck a multi-year licensing deal last week; a deal that should benefit all photographers.

The View Image button is gone, as is the “Search by Image” button. All that’s left is Visit, Save, View Saved, and Share.

All of the details were shared through the Google SearchLiason Twitter feed, where Google explained that yes, these changes are “in part” due to the deal with Getty. Ultimately, however, Google wants to emphasize that this is good for everyone:

For those asking, yes, these changes came about in part due to our settlement with Getty Images this week. They are designed to strike a balance between serving user needs and publisher concerns, both stakeholders we value.

Ultimately, Google Images is a way for people to discover information in cases where browsing images is a better experience than text. Having a single button that takes people to actionable information about the image is good for users, web publishers and copyright holders.

Now we just have to wait and see what kind of impact this will have on rampant online image theft. Of course, someone who wants to knowingly steal an image won’t be deterred by the lack of a direct link, but many of those “accidental pirates” that Getty claims exist should be saved from themselves by this change.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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