Tag: first

  • Breakthrough Photography’s GND and ND filters are the first made with tempered glass

    Breakthrough Photography has launched what it claims are the first-ever neutral density and graduated neutral density filters made with tempered glass. The new X4 GND, X4 ND Square, and Dark CPL filters are being funded through Kickstarter, where both 100mm and 150mm versions are detailed. According to Breakthrough, the X4 GND is the sharpest GND filter ever, while both the GND and ND filters are the ‘world’s most color neutral.’

    Both the X4 GND and X4 ND filters are made with Schott B270 tempered glass which, says Breakthrough, results in ‘an incredibly durable filter’ that can withstand drops onto hard surfaces. Both sides of the tempered glass are refined with an MRC16 coating and a nanotec coating, the combination of which cuts down reflections and makes cleaning easier.

    Joining the two X4 filters is the Dark CPL, a filter that combines X4 ND and X4 CPL filters. Breakthrough explains that while stacking these two filter types typically produces a vignetting effect at about 19mm with a full-frame sensor, the new Dark CPL version gets rid of that vignette down to 16mm on the same full-frame sensors. The company is offering Dark CPL for Fuji, Leica, Carl Zeiss, Canon, Sony, Nikon, and Schneider Xenon lenses, among others that weren’t specified. 

    Breakthrough plans for the Dark CPL 46mm – 86mm to retail at up to $ 199, the Dark CPL 95mm/105mm at up to $ 259, the X4 GND 100x150mm at up to $ 199, the X4 GND 150x170mm at up to $ 249, and the X4 ND Square at prices ranging from $ 149 to $ 219 depending on both density and size. The company is offering various discounts on these filters to those who back the Kickstarter campaign. Shipping to backers is estimated to start this upcoming August.

    Via: CanonRumors

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • World’s first 100-million-pixel drone launched by DJI and Hasselblad

    Chinese drone manufacturer DJI has announced that it is to launch a new drone later this year that will be fitted with a 100-million-pixel Hasselblad H6D-100c camera. The DJI M600 Pro will be aimed at those who need precise and detailed aerial pictures, as it will not only produce extremely high resolution images but users will be able to position the drone with what the company describes as ‘centimeter-level’ accuracy using the D-RTK GNSS navigation system.

    The H6D-100c will be attached to DJI’s Ronin-MX gimbal and will be carried by the M600 drone’s six-rotors, with images streaming back to Earth via the Lightbridge 2 system. The drone is set for release in the third quarter of the year, with a price no doubt as spectacular as the promised image quality.

    For more information see the DJI website.

    Press release:

    DJI And Hasselblad Introduce World’s First 100-Megapixel Integrated Aerial Photography Platform

    DJI M600 Pro Drone, Ronin-MX Gimbal And Hasselblad H6D-100c Camera Combine For Unparalleled Aerial Imaging Package

    DJI, the world’s leader in civilian drones and aerial imaging technology, and Hasselblad, the leader in high-quality professional medium format cameras, Tuesday marked the start of the next era of aerial photography by introducing the first 100-megapixel integrated drone imaging platform.

    The DJI M600 Pro drone, the Ronin-MX gimbal and the Hasselblad H6D-100c camera combine each company’s unparalleled technological expertise to create an unprecedented tool for precise, detailed and accurate aerial imaging. Professional drone users can continuously control camera operations in flight using the DJI GO app, in order to provide rich imagery for landscape and fine-art photography, robust data for surveying and mapmaking, and endless possibilities for future professional endeavors.

    The flight platform for the combination is the DJI M600 Pro drone, an advanced and adaptable six-rotor flight platform equipped with the powerful Lightbridge 2 transmission system, a dustproof propulsion system and six Intelligent Flight Batteries. The M600 Pro can be guided by the D-RTK GNSS navigation system, which can withstand strong magnetic interference to provide highly precise centimeter-level 3D positioning. This enhanced accuracy over typical barometer, compass and GPS systems makes it ideal for exacting commercial, industrial and scientific applications.

    The Hasselblad H6D-100c camera is a triumph of camera technology, with a large 53.4 mm x 40.0 mm sensor that offers outstanding detail, color reproduction and tonal range even in poor lighting conditions using the HC and HCD lens family. The camera mounts on the drone through the Ronin-MX three-axis stabilized gimbal, which uses powerful motors and inertial measurement units to resist high G-forces, maintain stability and hold the horizon.

    The M600/Ronin-MX/H6D-100c platform is the latest product collaboration since DJI assumed a stake in Hasselblad in late 2015, allowing the companies to explore fruitful collaborations on their advanced technology. Their first joint product, released in July 2016, combined the M600 drone platform with the A5D medium format camera. Hasselblad remains the only medium format camera company collaborating with DJI to bring unprecedented quality to drone photography.

    The M600/Ronin-MX/H6D-100c platform is on display through April 27 at the NAB Show in Las Vegas, Nevada, in DJI booth #C2807 in the Central Hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center. The combination will be released in the third quarter of 2017 at a price to be announced later.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    After a lot of thought and research, you finally pull the trigger. You bring home your first digital camera, pull the sleek marvel of engineering out of the box, and stare at it excitedly. Then you look at all the buttons and controls, and the excitement turns into fear… You realize that you have no idea how to use your new camera!

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    So what’s next? Well, the most important thing is to not be intimidated. It’s not nearly as complicated to learn photography as it might seem – despite what all those buttons might make you think. You will thankfully never need half of those buttons.

    This article is going to cover the technical aspects of using your new camera; what you need to know right away to get up and running. The three other aspects to becoming a good photographer are the conceptual, composition, and the editing aspect, but we can cover those another time.

    1. Light

    Before we get into how to use your new camera, there is an important ingredient that will make thinking about using it much more intuitive. What does the light look like? I want you to spend some time looking at light, without a camera over the next few days. A camera is a tool that records this light. You can’t figure out what settings to use if you don’t look at the light first. This is why many new photographers get confused when trying to figure out the best settings. They were never taught to start with the light.

    Where is the light coming from in relation to the camera? How strong is it? Are you in direct sunlight, is it diffused, are there multiple light sources, are you in the shadows, is it late in the day, is there artificial light, and what color is the light? The technical side of photography is really all about the light.

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    As you get more experienced, you can start looking into using your own light sources, such as flashes and strobes, but that can come later. Don’t be afraid of this part either. It is not as hard as it looks, as long as you get good at looking at the light.

    Now it’s time to look at your new camera and figure out the settings.

    2. Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO

    Besides white balance, if your camera only had three dials on it, one for the shutter, one for the aperture, and one for the ISO, that is all you would need. These three factors all come together to record the light. Here is what they each do:

    ISO:

    The ISO is your camera sensor’s ability to capture light. The higher the ISO, the more light it can capture, but it also means that your image will look grainier (digital noise). Landscape photographers or anyone using a tripod often prefers to use a low ISO, such as 100 or 200 so the images have as little grain as possible. High ISOs are primarily used when handholding the camera in medium strength light and in dark situations, such as indoors or at dusk. This is why concert and event photographers, street photographers, or even travel photographers will often shoot at high ISOs. They often find themselves shooting in low-light situations.

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    It is important to know that newer cameras can easily shoot good quality images at an ISO of 1600, and many at 3200 – 6400 for the higher end cameras. A lot of the grain/digital noise will not even show up when making smaller prints, such as 8x10s. The large prints are where grain shows more, but even with this, most viewers will not notice it, and many will even consider it beautiful. I rarely go below ISO 400, unless I am on a tripod. When you get the chance, take a few similar shots at different ISOs and zoom in on the computer to look at the differences.

    Aperture (F-number):

    The aperture is a hole that opens in your lens to allow light to hit the sensor. Changing the aperture adjusts the size of the hole. The larger the hole, the more light that hits the sensor, but it also means that you will have a shallower depth of field (i.e. a smaller range in your image will be in focus). A large hole corresponds to a small f-number, such as f/2. The smaller the hole, the less light that hits the sensor, but more of your image will be in focus. A small hole corresponds to a large f-number, such as f/16.

    I am overgeneralizing here, but often portrait photographers will shoot at very low f-numbers such as f/2.8. This is because they can focus on the subject’s eyes and have the sharpness fall off quickly to  separate the subject from the background. Landscape photographers, on the other hand, typically use tripods and try to shoot around f/11 or f/16 to have as much of the image as sharp as possible, from the foreground to the background.

    Shutter Speed:

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    Using a slow shutter speed and a tripod allowed me to blur the moving trains.

    The shutter is a curtain inside your camera body that opens and closes. The amount of time the shutter is opened to expose the sensor to the light is referred to as the shutter speed. 1/160 refers to 1/160th of a second. So an exposure of 1/10th of a second is a slower shutter speed than 1/160th, and allows more light to hit the sensor.

    As you get to slower and slower shutter speeds, you start to see more motion blur in your images, depending on whether or not subjects are moving. How much motion blur will depend on the shutter speed and the speed of the subject. While 1/200th of a second would freeze a person walking, you might need 1/1000th of a second to freeze a car driving past.

    Minimum shutter speed

    Keep in mind that when you are handholding your new camera your hands will shake a tiny amount, which can introduce blur into your images. So you need to use a fast enough shutter speed to offset this. The rule is that your shutter speed needs to be at least one over your focal length. Look at your lens. You see those numbers on the front (i.e. 35mm)? That is your focal length.

    The smaller the number means a wider field of view, while the larger numbers mean more of a telephoto. If you are shooting at 24mm, then you would need your shutter speed to be at least 1/24th of a second, whereas at 70mm you need to shoot at 1/70th of a second (or faster) to not have any handheld camera shake. It makes sense when you think about this. If you are zoomed in on a small part of the background, your slight hand movements will be much more obvious in that small area versus a wide angle of view.

    If your new camera has an APS-C (cropped) sensor, which is normal for most entry-level cameras, the true focal length of your lens is actually 1.5 (Nikon)  or 1.6 (Canon) times what it says (the crop factor). So if you are at 24mm, your actual focal length is 24×1.6=38.4mm, so you would want to be shooting at 1/40th of a second or faster. Micro-4/3rds cameras have a crop factor of 2x instead of 1.6. Full-frame sensors are 1-1.

    3. Manual versus Aperture Priority versus Shutter priority

    In photography, there are three ways to skin a cat. You will want to set your camera to either Manual, Aperture Priority, or Shutter Priority. Once you learn your new camera well, you can use any of these settings to get to the same endpoint.

    Set the ISO first

    Of these settings, the first thing you will do is to set your ISO. Turn ISO Auto off (or read this for a different perspective: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Auto ISO). If you are shooting with a tripod – set the ISO to 100 or 200. Are you handheld in bright sunlight –  an ISO of 100-400 will do. In the shade, an ISO of 400-1600 will be ideal depending on the brightness levels. At dusk, at night, or indoors without a strong window light – usually, ISOs of 1600-6400 are ideal. So for any photography session, step 1 is to assess the light and step 2 is to set the ISO.

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    What mode to use next

    Next, you need to figure out if you want to shoot in Manual (M), Aperture Priority (A/Av), or Shutter Priority (S/Tv) mode.

    In Manual mode, you set both the aperture and shutter speed yourself. Some people think it’s macho to only shoot in Manual, but in many situations, Manual can slow you down significantly. For this reason, I use this mode the least of the three. With Aperture Priority, you choose the aperture and the camera uses an internal light meter to guess the correct shutter speed to expose the scene correctly. It usually does a good job at this, except for situations with a lot of bright or dark tones. In Shutter Priority, you choose the shutter speed and the camera chooses the aperture.

    Except for when I’m using studio lighting or in a situation where the lighting is consistent, I mostly shoot in Aperture or Shutter Priority modes. I prefer Aperture Priority mode for portraiture, landscapes, most images on a tripod, or any situation where I want a lot of bokeh (the background blur due to a shallow depth of field). I prefer Shutter Priority for street photography, sports, or anything where either the subject is moving and I want to freeze the motion, or where I purposely want to show motion blur, such as panning.

    While I personally prefer to only shoot in Manual in very specific situations, I suggest you go out for a couple of your first sessions and only shoot in Manual Mode. Guess the ISO, the shutter speed, and the aperture. Take the shot and look at the picture. Is it too dark, too light, is it blurry, or is there motion blur? At first, you will have no idea what you are doing, but you will quickly learn. This is a great way to learn how your settings will affect the scene.

    4. Exposure Compensation (+/-)

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    Scenes like this will require you to use Exposure Compensation as the camera will attempt to make the snow gray.

    We’re almost there – I promise. Exposure Compensation is your best friend when shooting in Aperture or Shutter Priority Mode. When using these modes, the camera will use its light meter to guess the correct exposure. Its goal is to render your scene as a neutral gray tone, so sometimes it will get the exposure wrong from what you want. You can use Exposure Compensation to offset this issue. You can raise or lower the exposure compensation (+/-) on your camera to lighten or darken a scene. Use it!

    Some situations where you might need to use Exposure Compensation are scenes with lots of light or dark tones, such as an image with a lot of bright white sky or white snow (like the image above), or in a dark alleyway or at night. For a scene with white snow, the camera would see all that white and try to make it neutral gray – ultimately darkening the image too much. So you have to raise the Exposure Compensation (use + to increase the exposure) to brighten the scene back to normal. For a dark alleyway, the camera will try to brighten the dark walls to be a neutral gray, so you have to adjust the Exposure Compensation (use – to lower the exposure) to make those grays look much darker and more realistic (true to tone).

    5. White Balance

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    White balance is how your camera portrays the color of the light in a scene. Different light sources have completely different colors, and the camera has many settings for the most typical ones, such as a sunny or shady day. However, start off by setting your white balance to auto. Auto white balance usually works great. Once you become comfortable with everything else in this article, then start learning more about white balance. It’s a more advanced thing to learn down the road, and auto can take you a long way. I still use auto white balance a majority of the time.

    6. Autofocusing and Taking the Picture (Finally!)

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    This is the last thing! I promise!

    Your focus area is the spot that your camera chooses to be sharp. When you set your camera to autofocus and look through the viewfinder, you will see many boxes (squares or circles depending on your camera) that you can select from to choose the area where you want the camera to focus. Figure out how to move this box around (you do not want the focus area to be set to auto or zone) and select one. You will want to move it to focus on the subject in your image.

    Many photographers, myself included, will often just keep the focus box in the middle. I will then aim the middle box at the subject that I want in sharp focus, press the shutter halfway to lock the focus, then recompose the image while holding the shutter halfway pressed. When the composition is right, I will take the photo. This is a great way to focus if you do not feel like constantly moving the focus point around.

    When you press the shutter down halfway, it will focus the camera using the point you select. Pressing it all the way will take the picture. Be careful, because sometimes when you are focusing on the edge of a subject, a subject that is small, or a subject that is far away, the camera can mistakenly focus on the background instead. This is a very common problem called back-focus that happens frequently to newer photographers.

    Note: your camera needs contrast to focus. So make sure you select an area that has an edge so that the camera can focus. It cannot focus on a plain white wall, for example.

    Wrapping up

    Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera

    I know this was a lot to cover, especially if this is one of your first lessons. It’s a lot to be taken in right away, but it’s really not that hard to learn all of this in real life. It seems much more daunting to read about it all than to see it in person. Really, if I were to show you all of this in real life – in three hours, you would have it down.

    So let’s stop here. Read over what I wrote five or seven times in the next few weeks and play around with the settings. Take photos indoors and outdoors and at different times of day and figure out how to expose them well. Create sharp images, try creating bokeh, and mess around with motion blur. Take your time and change the settings to see how the images look. Look at them on the back of your camera right after you take them. Zoom into the details as well.

    Once you have this all down, then it’s time to move on to the more advanced stuff!

    The post Bought Your First DSLR? 6 Tips for Learning How to Use Your New Camera by James Maher appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Throwback Thursday: The DSLR-A900, Sony’s first full-frame camera

    Prior to September 2008, the only options for owners of Konica Minolta Alpha-mount lenses were APS-C DSLRs like Sony’s DSLR-A700 (Sony acquired KM’s camera business in 2006).

    Then came the DSLR-A900, Sony’s first full-frame DSLR, which had an expansive feature set for the relatively low price of $ 3000. The A900, whose large magnesium alloy body could practically drive nails, had a 24.6MP full-frame CMOS sensor paired with two Bionz processors. That combination gave users a fully expanded ISO range of 100-6400 and burst shooting that topped out at 5 fps.

    The A900 with its optional battery grip. As you can see, even the grip is full of buttons.

    The A900 was one of those cameras with buttons for everything. Heck, there was even a switch for turning its in-body image stabilization system on and off. It also had a joystick which you could use to set the focus point – something that’s a big new feature on the a9. Back then the A900’s 9-point AF system was pretty exciting, though it pales in comparison to what you’ll find on a modern camera. Still, my colleague Rishi would be pleased that the A900 had AF micro-adjustment way back in 2008.

    As you can see above, the A900 had a large pentaprism optical viewfinder, with 100% coverage and a magnification of 0.74x. The specs for its 3″, 921k-dot fixed LCD are the same as you’d see today. For those wondering: no, the A900 did not have live view.

    The A900 had CompactFlash and Memory Stick Duo (groan) card slots.

    Being a Sony camera of that era, the A900 had a few quirks. It had two memory card slots (good), but one of them was for Memory Stick Duo cards. The A900 carried over Minolta’s proprietary hot shoe, so if you wanted to use a flash with standard connectors, you’d need to use an adapter.

    The A900 sits between its full-frame peers: the Canon EOS 5D and Nikon D700

    As far as image quality goes, I think this quote from our review speaks for itself:

    The Alpha 900 sets a new standard for resolution, edging past the EOS-1Ds Mark III by a whisker, and leaving its 12-ish megapixel competitors in a cloud of dust. Next to the Canon models the output looks soft, but in terms of sheer detail capture it’s now the one to beat in the full-frame DSLR market.

    The main downsides were that the camera applied noise reduction to its Raw images and that things got pretty noisy once you passed ISO 400.

    Despite that, the Sony A900 was quite a camera for Sony’s first attempt at a full-frame DSLR. It fell behind some of its competitors in some areas, such as autofocus speed, but that wasn’t enough to keep it from earning a ‘Highly Recommended’ award.

    Have any fond memories of the A900? Share them below in the comments. If you have any ideas for a future TBT, be sure to let us know!

    Read our Sony Alpha DSLR-A900 review


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    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Sony a9 first look videos

    With an all-new and world’s first stacked CMOS full frame sensor, the Sony a9 looks to be a force to be reckoned with. Check out our first look video to get yourself up to speed on Sony’s latest sports shooter in our brief first look video.

    We got some additional time with the camera, and captured some through-the-viewfinder video showing the new AF system in action. We start off showing Lock-On: Flexible Spot M in action, which does a seemingly improved job of sticking to our intended (initial) subject. Sony claims much improved subject tracking; our initial impressions confirm this, though Lock-on still experiences a delay in initially locking on to your subject. We then take a critical look at AF joystick usage: while responsive, it often misregisters a directional push for a downward one, which activates a completely different function (Center AF-S, by default).

    Lastly, we look at the newly added ability to tie a specific AF mode (with or without AF activation) to custom buttons, which is potentially game changing when it comes to quickly adapting to changing scenarios. Unfortunately, you can only ever switch to one other AF mode; but quickly switching back-and-forth between two AF area modes is still fantastic, and one of the things we truly enjoy and use when shooting high-end Canon/Nikon DSLRs.

    If you don’t see closed captioning, please enable it for the below video.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Panasonic GH5 gets 10-bit 4:2:2 1080 video in first of promised firmware updates

    When Panasonic introduced the Lumix DC-GH5, it made the bold promise that it would release not one, but two firmware updates that would significantly increase the performance of the camera. The first was to arrive in April and the second a bit later in ‘Summer 2017.’

    True to its word, Panasonic has announced firmware v1.1 for the GH5, bringing 4:2:2 10-bit Full HD video capture and a series of enhanced capture options for anamorphic shooters.

    The firmware brings 4:2:2 10-bit IPB capture at 100Mbps to 1080/59.97p resolution. Anamorphic shooters also get 10-bit 4:2:2 IPB capture but with the larger, 3328 x 2496 shooting region encoded at 150Mbps. The update also includes two minor bug-fixes.

    Higher resolution anamorphic video capture, along with 400Mbps All-I capture for 4K and 200Mbps All-I capture for Full HD will follow in the summer release.


    Press Release

    DC-GH5 Firmware Update Service Ver.1.1 for Expansion of 4:2:2 10-bit Video Recording Mode

    Panasonic is announcing the new firmware update program Ver.1.1 for DC-GH5 to further enhance its performance. The new firmware Ver.1.1 enables 4:2:2 10-bit video recording in either FHD [MP4(LPCM)] / [MOV] and Anamorphic (4:3) mode, in addition to the existing 4K video recording mode.

    4:2:2 10-bit FHD [MP4(LPCM)] / [MOV]

    Item

    System frequency

    Size

    Frame rate

    Bit rate

    YUV/bit

    Image compression

    [FHD/10bit/100M/60p]

    59.94Hz

    (NTSC)

    1920 x 1080

    59.94p

    100 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [FHD/10bit/100M/30p]

    1920 x 1080

    29.97p

    100 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [FHD/10bit/100M/24p]

    1920 x 1080

    23.98p

    100 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [FHD/10bit/100M/50p]

    50.00Hz

    (PAL)

    1920 x 1080

    50.00p

    100 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [FHD/10bit/100M/25p]

    1920 x 1080

    25.00p

    100 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [FHD/10bit/100M/24p]

    24.00Hz

    (CINEMA)

    1920 x 1080

    24.00p

    100 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    ?When [Miniature Effect] is selected for Creative Control Mode, you cannot select the items used for 4:2:2/10 bit motion pictures.

    4:2:2 10-bit Anamorphic (4:3) mode

    Item

    System frequency

    Size

    Frame rate

    Bit rate

    YUV/bit

    Image compression

    [4K/A/150M/30p]

    59.94Hz

    (NTSC)

    3328 x 2496

    29.97p

    150 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [4K/A/150M/24p]

    3328 x 2496

    23.98p

    150 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [4K/A/150M/25p]

    50.00Hz

    (PAL)

    3328 x 2496

    25.00p

    150 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    [4K/A/150M/24p]

    24.00Hz

    (CINEMA)

    3328 x 2496

    24.00p

    150 Mbps

    4:2:2/10 bit

    Long GOP

    ?[Anamorphic(4:3)] is available only when the camera is set to Creative Video Mode.

    The firmware version 1.1 also includes following firmware fixes that reflect customer feedback:

    • A problem in which the exposure adjustment did not operate properly during live view standby under specific conditions using [Variable Frame Rate].
    • A problem in which afterimages appeared when recording video under high ISO sensitivity settings in using [V-LogL]

    The new DC-GH5 firmware Ver 1.1 is scheduled to be released on 24 April, 2017 at the following LUMIX Customer Support website: http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Western Digital launches its first portable SSD

    Western Digital today announced its first portable SSD, adding solid state storage technology to its My Passport line of portable storage devices. The new My Passport SSD comes with a USB Type-C port and with transfer speeds of up to 515 MB/s is WD’s fastest current My Passport model. 

    The My Passport SSD is available with capacities ranging from 256GB to 1TB and its small dimensions make it very portable. It has also been drop tested from a height of 2m / 6.5ft and Western Digital claims it can withstand 1500G of force.

    The Western Digital My Passport SSD comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable and a USB-A adapter in the box. It is available now from Best Buy and from other select retailers starting this quarter. The 256GB model will set you back $ 99.99, the 512GB version is $ 199.99, and for the 1TB variant $ 399.99 have to be invested. More information is available on the Western Digital website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Hasselblad X1D-50c First Impressions Review

    The Hasselblad X1D-50c is a 50MP mirrorless medium format camera and is an important product for the storied Swedish company.

    Hasselblad is a company with a long history of making high-end cameras. Its boxy 6 x 6 format cameras (latterly dubbed the ‘V’ series) were beloved of generations of photographers and perhaps reached their apogee when used to capture man’s first ventures to the moon.

    The ravages of history, the decline of film and changes of both management and ownership have seen the company make sporadic attempts to expand beyond its core, high-end professional medium format market, but the X1D is the move that best fits with the brand’s strengths and history.

    The first camera in the ‘XCD’ system, the X1D is built around 44 x 33mm medium format sensor (or ‘cropped’ medium format if you’re going to demand that digital directly mimics film formats). The assumption has to be that it’s a similar 50MP chip to the one included in Ricoh’s Pentax 645Z and Fujifilm’s GFX 50S. What’s interesting is how different each camera ends up being.

    Key Features:

    • 50MP 44 x 33mm medium format CMOS sensor
    • 12.4MP preview JPEGs or ‘3FR’ 16-bit losslessly compressed Raws
    • 2.36M-dot electronic viewfinder
    • 920k-dot (VGA) 3.0″ touchscreen 
    • Designed to use leaf-shutter lenses
    • Tethered shooting over USB 3.0 or Wi-Fi
    • Full TTL compatibility with recent Nikon Speedlights

    Whereas the 645Z is medium format DSLR, built around Pentax’s existing 645 film system, and Fujifilm’s GFX is a DSLR-shaped mirrorless camera with a focal plane shutter, Hasselblad has used the expertise it’s gained in high-end studio cameras to create the smallest camera of the three by pushing the shutter out into the lenses. This move not only keeps the camera small, it also means that the camera can sync with strobes across its entire shutter speed range.

    To an extent it reminds us of the original Sony a7, which appeared to be the bare minimum amount of camera built around a full frame sensor. The Hasselblad does the same thing, but with a sensor 70% larger. However, what will be interesting to see is whether the Hasselblad is able to take full advantage of that extra sensor size if its lenses are significantly slower than those available for the smaller, ‘full-frame’ format (which, in theory at least, gives you the chance to open the aperture, let in more light and cancel out all of the larger sensor advantage, so long as you don’t run out of dynamic range).

    Initially, Hasselblad has promised three lenses for the XCD system: a 30mm F3.5 (24mm equiv), a 45mm F3.5 (35mm equiv) and a 90mm F3.2 (70mm equiv). As with so many things in life, what you gain on one side (the faster sync speeds of a leaf shutter), you lose on another (it’s increasingly hard to get a leaf shutter to quickly open and close across a large distance).

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 5 Things I Wish I Knew When I First Started Wildlife Photography

    I first started photography almost 10 years ago, and I sometimes wonder where I would be if I knew what I know now, back at the start. I feel like I’ve learned the most important things about wildlife photography in the last 4-5 years, with the time prior to that being spent juggling schoolwork alongside my hobby.

    The hardest part about getting really good at something is at the start. It can feel impossible to take a decent image when you’re comparing yourself to the stunning work you see online all the time. Maybe you’re even taking lessons, but feel like there’s some kind of barrier that you can’t bust through to photographic greatness above.

    While we’re all still learning, whatever stage we’re at, I hope that some of these tips will help you fast track your photography. Hopefully, you can avoid some of the mistakes I made early on when I first started doing wildlife photography.

    #1 Single-point focus is a must

    There are few situations, other than perhaps birds in flight, where you would want to use anything but the single-point focus mode on your camera. If you allow the camera to select the best focus point itself, you’ll easily have an image of an animal with its body sharp but eyes out of focus. This kills the shot – instantly.

    5 Things I Wish I Knew When I First Started Wildlife Photography

    When you’ve switched to single-point focus, you can dictate exactly where the camera will look to focus. Point that little black square at the eyes of your subject and the rest will start to fall into place. Just be extra sure that you aren’t focusing on the nose, or beak, of an animal rather than the eyes. It’s an easy mistake to make in a small viewfinder. After that, no longer will you need to trash that super cute shot of a squirrel just because the eyes are not sharp.

    #2 Semi-automatic modes are your friends

    I want to address a common misconception I hear again and again. This is that anything other than full manual mode is cheating and not proper photography. While I insist that everyone should learn how to use their camera in full manual, there is no reason to add extra obstacles in your way to a great photo.

    With wildlife photography, everything is moving so quickly and the light is constantly changing. Most of the time when shooting in full manual, you’re just introducing a load of unnecessary wheels to spin and adjust to account for the tiniest change in light.

    5 Things I Wish I Knew When I First Started Wildlife Photography

    Photo: Mario Calvo / Unsplash.com

    But, that’s also not to say that photographers using semi-automatic modes aren’t capable of shooting in full manual. Having to continuously adjust settings in a fraction of a second will most definitely make you miss opportunities. Plus, when you really understand how full manual works, it takes only a little thought to adjust and perfect the exposure. It just adds time to the process.

    Semi-automatic modes take away this chore, meaning you can focus more on composition and other, arguably more important, ingredients that make up a great photo. You can still have control over your exposure, fine-tuning it using exposure compensation. I have lost count of the number of shots I missed when I insisted on solely using full manual mode at the start of my photographic journey.

    The shooting modes I’m referring to are Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and full Manual with Auto-ISO. Take a look at this article I’ve written about which of these is best for certain situations: Why Semi-automatic Mode is the Best Choice for Wildlife Photography

    #3 Organization is key

    By alborzshawn

    My biggest regret is never properly organizing my photos. I only started to do this vigorously back in 2015, which I am quite ashamed to say! I use Adobe Lightroom, and it just makes life so much easier. Creating a catalog of my images, I can keyword and easily find them all. Collections allow me to sort through specific shoots quickly, and the delete button is never too far away either with a tap of the X key on my keyboard.

    Deleting images is something that we all need to do, but it’s never easy. But be brave, and if a shot isn’t up to scratch then make sure to haul it out of your catalog and into the trash. If you don’t, you’ll end up with hard drives full of thousands of pictures and you’ll never be able to find the good ones hidden within them.

    It’s good practice to make sure you dig through all the photos from a shoot fairly quickly. Remove the blurred and rubbish frames so that you don’t procrastinate and find down the line that you still have to prune the images from a shoot a few years ago. Whoops!

    #4 You don’t need to fill the frame

    I always thought that a good wildlife photo filled the frame with the subject. If it was too far away, then there was no shot to be had. How wrong I was! The style of minimalist wildlife photography, having the subject small in the frame, is becoming increasingly popular nowadays. Perhaps styles and tastes have changed in the field since I first started out, but either way, it is something I wish I had experimented with more when I was younger.

    5 Things I Wish I Knew When I First Started Wildlife Photography

    This is great news for those of you who don’t have access to large telephoto lenses, too. It means you don’t need to go and shell out thousands for a 500mm prime lens when you can get shots that are just as good with a shorter telephoto (or even a wide lens).

    Keep the subject small and introduce the environment around it into the scene. You might need to adjust your aperture to increase the depth of field, depending on what you’re trying to achieve. Since the surroundings will become a larger part of the shot, perhaps you want them to be more in focus than usual.

    #5 You don’t need to stick to a normal aspect ratio

    One thing that I’ve only started to do within the last year or so, is to play with the aspect ratio of my photos. You don’t need to stick to the standard that pops out of your camera. Try cropping into a square, or even creating a panoramic shot, to make long photos that capture a wider view than normal.

    5 Things I Wish I Knew When I First Started Wildlife Photography

    A colony of guillemots on the Farne Islands, Northumberland. One individual is attempting to land and squeeze into the group.

    Experimenting with the aspect ratio of your photo makes them stand out too. Immediately people notice that the photo doesn’t fall into normal ratios, and pay attention to the shot. I really like these long, snaky frames. I feel they tend to work well with scenes that have a large number of focal points within them. For example, this image of the guillemots has so many different birds that you can look at in detail. The long frame creates a sense of a large colony of birds, and works well to get rid of the unnecessary sky above that would be there with a standard ratio.

    In Conclusion

    We can’t all be experts from the word go, I still have loads to learn about wildlife photography. But hopefully, some of these tips will help you to buck the trend and let you benefit from some of the things I wish I knew when I first started clicking wildlife photography.

    The post 5 Things I Wish I Knew When I First Started Wildlife Photography by Will Nicholls appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Opinion: Thinking about buying medium format? Read this first

    The recent announcements of Fujifilm’s GFX 50S and Hasselblad’s X1D have turned a lot of heads, and for good reason. To take the GFX 50S specifically (since it’s more likely to represent an affordable option for DSLR shooters), we love Fujifilm cameras. It’s hard not to – they offer excellent ergonomics with a level of direct control that photographers itch for, and Fujifilm’s color science renders images that harken back to the days of film, while retaining all the advantages of digital. Meanwhile, the X-Trans color filter array (CFA) offers a number of advantages compared to traditional Bayer CFAs, showing decreased false color and a slight noise advantage due to a (relatively) greater proportion of green pixels.

    Ultimately, though, the image quality of Fujifilm’s best cameras was limited by their APS-C sized sensors, which simply cannot capture as much light as similar silicon in larger sizes. And if you’ve kept up with our recent technical articles, you’ll know that the amount of total light you’ve captured is arguably the largest determinant of image quality.

    ‘Fujifilm skipped the arguably saturated full-frame market and went straight to medium format.’

    That left many of us wondering when Fujifilm would step up to full-frame (35mm). But Fujifilm went one better – they skipped the arguably saturated full-frame market and went straight to medium format. In a rather compact, lightweight mirrorless form-factor at that. That made a lot of sense especially when you consider Fujifilm’s heritage in medium format film cameras, and its experience making medium-format lenses for other brands.

    So, finally, here comes the GFX 50S: Fujifilm ergonomics and colors, but with all the advantages offered by larger sensors. But while heads turn, eyes widen, and colleagues fight over who gets to take the camera out for a shoot, personally I’m in need of a little convincing. And think you should be too, if you’re thinking about plopping down a fat wad of cash for this seemingly drool-worthy system.

    But what’s not to like, you ask? Bear with me…

    Theoretical advantages of larger sensors

    The potential advantages of larger sensors can broadly be split into four areas: noise in low light, dynamic range, subject isolation (shallow depth-of-field), and resolution. But zoom into the following 36MP at 100% – are any of those lacking?

    ISO 64 on a Nikon D810 gets me medium format-esque signal:noise ratio (image cleanliness), along with subject isolation I can’t get on medium format just yet, not at this focal length anyway (which would require a non-existent 44mm F2.5 MF lens). The incredible sharpness of this lens means I get good use out of those 36MP even wide open at F2. Photo: Rishi Sanyal (Nikon D810 | Sigma 24-35mm @ 35mm F2)

    The question is: does the GFX 50S currently deliver on all, or any, of these advantages over what the best of full-frame has to offer? Let’s look at each separately.

    Low light (noise) performance

    For the same f-number and shutter speed (or ‘focal plane exposure’), a larger sensor is exposed to more total light. The same light per unit area is projected by the lens, but the larger sensor has more area available capturing it. An image made with more light has less relative photon shot noise (the noise that results from the fact that light arrives randomly at the imaging plane). The more light you capture, the more you ‘average’ out these fluctuations, leading to a cleaner image (that’s the laymen’s description of it anyway; read about it more in-depth here).

    That’s why a full-frame camera generally gives you cleaner images than your smartphone.* So if more light means better images, that’s a clear win for the GFX 50S, right?

    Not so fast…

    No, literally, not so fast. The lenses available for the GFX format simply aren’t as fast as those offered by full-frame competitors. The fastest lens on Fujifilm’s GFX roadmap is F2, which in full-frame equivalent terms is F1.56** (the concept of equivalence is out of scope for this article, but you can read about it in-depth here; for now, just remember the GFX has a reverse crop factor, relative to full-frame, of 0.79x). And most of the current MF lenses hover around F2.8 and F4, or F2.2 and F3.2 equivalent, respectively. That means that if they had the exact same underlying silicon technology (or sensor performance), a full-frame camera with an F2.2 (or F3.2) lens should do just as well as the GFX 50S with its F2.8 (or F4) lens. Even if were were to think ahead to the MF 100MP sensor Sony provides in the Phase One cameras, its 0.64x crop factor at best yields an F1.3 full-frame equivalent lenses from the one F2 lens announced, still not beating out the Canon 85/1.2, and barely beating out the plethora of available F1.4 full-frame lenses. So even if the newly announced G-mount lenses cover the wider medium format image circle (which I’d sure hope they would), things still aren’t so exciting.

    But full-frame can do better than that: F1.4 and F1.8 lenses are routinely available for full-frame cameras, typically for less money too. An F1.4 lens projects twice as much light per unit area than an F2 lens, and 4x as much as an F2.8 lens, amply making up for the 1.7x smaller sensor surface area of full-frame.

    That means full-frame cameras can capture as much, or more, light as the GFX 50S simply by offering faster lenses. But wait, it there’s more…

    $ (document).ready(function() { ImageComparisonWidget({“containerId”:”reviewImageComparisonWidget-19745370″,”widgetId”:489,”initialStateId”:3472}) })

    Companies like Sony have poured a lot of R&D into their full-frame (and smaller) sensors, and the a7R II uses a backside-illuminated design that makes it more efficient than the sensor used in the 50S. It also offers a dual-gain architecture that flips the camera into a high gain mode at ISO 640, allowing it to effectively overcome any noise introduced by the camera’s own electronics. In other words, the a7R II’s sensor is better able to use the light projected onto it, relative to the MF sensor – ironically a sensor made by Sony itself – in the G50S (or Pentax 645Z, or Hasselblad X1D). This allows it to match the low light noise performance of the larger sensor in the GFX (and Pentax 645Z and Hasselblad X1D) even at the same shutter speed and f-number. See our studio scene comparison widget above.

    ‘The Sony a7R II’s sensor is better able to use the light projected onto it, relative to the MF sensor’

    So if we start with parity, guess what happens when you open up that aperture on the a7R II to an f-number simply unavailable to any current medium format system? You guessed it: you get better low light performance on full-frame. Whoa.

    Dynamic Range

    Although the same f-number and shutter speed give a larger sensor more total light, they receive the same amount of light per unit area. Most sensors of a similar generation have broadly similar tolerance for light per unit area (technically: similar full well capacity per unit area). But a larger sensor devotes more sensor area to any scene element, so can tolerate more total light per scene element before clipping. That means that for the same focal plane exposure, despite clipping highlights at a similar point, a larger sensor will render shadows (whose noise levels define the other limit of dynamic range) from more total light. And the same logic that applies to low light noise applies here as well: more total light = less relative shot noise and less impact of any noise from camera electronics. That means cleaner shadows, and more dynamic range.

    So another clear win for the larger sensor GFX, no? Well, no. Because someone poured a lot of R&D into the Nikon D810 sensor (noticing a trend here?), giving it higher full-well capacity per unit area than any other sensor we’ve measured to date: its ISO 64 mode. Each pixel can hold more total charge before clipping, relative to equally-sized pixels on any other sensor in a consumer camera. That means it can tolerate a longer exposure at ISO 64, longer enough (at least 2/3 EV, or 60% more light) to capture as much total light as the 68% larger sensor in the GFX 50S exposed at its base ISO (100). Don’t believe us? Check out our real-world dynamic range comparison of the Nikon D810 vs the Pentax 645Z, which ostensibly shares the same sensor as the GFX 50S:

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    In this shoot-out, we exposed each camera to the right as far as possible before clipping a significant chunk of pixels in the brightest portion of the Raw (in the orange sky just above the mountains). The D810, in this case, was able to tolerate a full stop longer exposure***, which allows its (pushed) shadows to remain as clean as the 645Z. That’s the (scientific, not baloney) reason we claimed the Nikon D810 to have medium format-like image quality. Because its dynamic range and overall signal:noise performance at ISO 64 rivals many current medium format cameras their base ISOs (though not the huge new 100MP MF Sony sensor in the new Phase One). Just look at its massive SNR advantage (read: image cleanliness) for all tones at ISO 64 over the Canon 5DS R at ISO 100 – we intend to plot the Fujifilm GFX 50S on the same graph, and don’t expect it to show any advantage to the D810. Because science.

    Read about this all more in-depth in our D810 review here, and check out Bill Claff’s quantitative data that shows a 0.22 EV base ISO dynamic range difference between the D810 and 645Z – hardly noticeable, much less something to write home about.

    ‘OK but it’s not fair to compare ISO 64 to ISO 100!’

    Fair enough, there’s a little more to the story. ISO 64 does require more exposure than ISO 100, either via a brighter lens, or longer exposure time. But one might argue that under circumstances where you care about dynamic range – i.e. high contrast scenes – you’re typically not light-limited to begin with, and can easily give the camera as much light as needed. Either because you’re shooting on a tripod, you’re using studio lights and can just crank them up, or because there’s so much light to begin with (it is a high contrast scene, right?) You’re working at or near base ISO anyway, so you shouldn’t have trouble adding 2/3 EV exposure by opening up the lens or lengthening the shutter speed a bit.

    ‘You’re working at or near base ISO anyway, so you shouldn’t have trouble adding 2/3 EV shutter speed’

    But, yes, if you’re in a light-limited situation (i.e. you’re not shooting at base ISO) and it’s high enough contrast that you care about dynamic range (have to expose for highlights then push shadows), then the GFX 50S will have the upper hand here. But dare I say, that’s quite the niche use case: keep in mind that most situations demanding higher ISOs tend to be in lower light, where you care more about general noise performance, not dynamic range (since low light scenes tend to have lower contrast). And if that’s what you care about, there’s the a7R II which, although it may clip highlights a bit earlier, can give you as good, or better, low light noise performance… [link back to Noise section above].

    But I’ll concede – if you want both the base ISO dynamic range of the D810, and the low light noise performance of an a7R II (albeit with F2 or slower lenses), then the GFX might be your ticket.

    Shallow Depth-of-Field

    As we calculated in our ‘Low light (noise) performance’ section above, the fastest lens on Fujifilm’s roadmap is ~F1.6 full-frame equivalent, with most current available lenses being F2.2 equivalent or slower. Since full-frame routinely has F1.4 (equivalent) lenses available, you actually get more subject isolation, and blurrier backgrounds, with full-frame than with medium format.

    And, no, the ‘but larger formats have more compression because you use longer focal length lenses for the same field-of-view’ argument is false. Just say no to the compression myth. For equivalent focal lengths/apertures, there’s no extra compression. Compression is relative only to equivalent focal length and subject distance (or subject magnification), and its relative distance to the background. Not the format you’re shooting on. Don’t believe us, have a look for yourself:

    46mm F2.8 on APS-C is roughly equivalent to 70mm F4.3 on full-frame – meaning the two shots above should be virtually identical. And they are, save for a tiny bit more DOF in the full-frame shot because F4.5 was the closest I could get to F4.3. Now, of course, you can get shallower DOF on full-frame, for example by shooting at F2.8. But that’s because those faster lenses are available for full-frame.

    They’re not in Fujifilm’s lineup, which includes two F2.8 lenses, one F2 lens, and a few F4 lenses – which are equivalent to F2.2, F1.6, and F3.2 in full-frame terms, respectively.

    Without brighter lenses, there’s just no reason to get excited about medium format for subject isolation and blurry backgrounds. If you’re a bokeh fanatic, full-frame’s arguably the sweet spot.

    Resolution

    OK, finally, some good news. Well, theoretically anyway.

    If you have two differently sized sensors with the same pixel count, the smaller one will be more demanding on its lens (it samples the lens at more lines per mm for the same scene frequency). Manufacturing larger lenses is also slightly easier, since the same relative tolerance level can be achieved, despite a larger absolute variance.

    So if you’re looking for true 50MP of detail across the frame, you’re more likely to get it with the GFX 50S than with a comparable 50MP full-frame sensor, simply because of the realities of lens design and tolerances. That said, we’ve been told that some of the newer full-frame lens designs were designed with 80 to 100MP in mind, on full-frame sensors. And with the eye-popping performance of some of the newest full-frame lenses we’ve seen, from varied manufacturers, we’re not inclined to disagree. We’ve seen some 50MP files from the 5DS R paired with truly stellar lenses where we simply can’t imagine anything better, resolution-wise. In fact, at ~F5.6-6.2 equivalent, I’m not seeing a major resolution advantage of the medium format cameras over the full-frame cameras in our studio scene comparison tool, and the 50MP full-frame image below isn’t exactly starved for resolution, is it?

    50MP Canon 5DS R image, shot with a Sigma 24-35mm F2 lens at F2. At F2 full-frame equiv., this image would have been impossible to shoot on the Fujifilm GFX 50S without a 44mm F2.5 lens, which doesn’t exist, nor is on Fujifilm’s roadmap. And despite the 5DS R’s smaller pixels for the same total pixel count sensor, this image isn’t exactly starving for resolution and sharpness at 1:1 viewing, thanks to modern lens design. Photo: Rishi Sanyal

    Put another way: if you’re seeing eye-popping resolution at F2 above and here and here (and even at F1.4 on some new lenses) when viewing a Canon 5DS R 50MP full-frame file at 100% (do click on the above image and view at 100%), do you want or need a truer 50MP? Or do you want even more than 50MP, particularly if it’ll come at the cost of more depth-of-field, since there are hardly any F2 equivalent lenses that’ll give you the subject isolation and background bokeh you see in the full-frame shot above?

    Only you can answer that question, but it is true that physics being physics, larger sensors will always tend to out-resolve smaller sensors with equivalent glass. And so this is the area where we most expect to see an advantage to the Fujifilm system, especially over time as we approach 100MP, and beyond. It’s probably easier for an F1.8 prime paired with the GFX 50S to out-resolve an F1.4 prime on a 5DS R when both systems are shot wide open, but whether that will be the case (or if Fujifilm will even make an F1.8 or brighter prime for the system) remains to be seen. I certainly don’t think it would be a cheap combination.

    Thanks, DPR, for saving me money / killing my hopes and dreams

    Still excited about the Fujifilm GFX 50S and Hasselblad X1D? Perhaps you still should be. You get Fujifilm ergonomics and color science in a body capable of far better image quality than Fujifilm’s APS-C offerings. But remember you can emulate much of that color science in Raw converters with proper profiles (we’re looking into a separate article on this). More importantly, remember that equivalence tells us that an F1.8 medium format prime is what the GFX 50S actually needs to at least match the performance from modern full-frames paired with F1.4 lenses, from the perspective of noise and shallow depth-of-field. And that’s before you consider the advanced silicon technologies we’ve seen in different full-frame (and smaller) sensors that we haven’t yet seen in any medium format sensor. These advances have, for example, allowed a Nikon D810 to catch up to the dynamic range of the Pentax 645Z at base ISO, and the BSI, dual-gain a7R II sensor to catch up to the GFX 50S in low light noise performance.

    Still, as I’ve said, physics is physics. For equivalent apertures and final output resolutions, we do expect medium format to yield a slight resolution advantage, thanks to its lower demands on resolving power of lenses. But the extent of this advantage, especially given some of the tremendous progress we’ve seen in recent lens designs, remains to be seen: I’m not starving for eye-popping detail at 1:1 viewing of 50 and 42MP files when pairing a 5DS R or a7R II with stellar modern prime lenses.

    ‘as medium format evolves, the same gains we see in full-frame over smaller sensors might find their ways into the format.’

    Of course, as medium format evolves, the same gains we see in full-frame over smaller sensors might find their ways into the format. But this will require both the silicon to keep up, and for the development of faster lenses. At least as fast as the fastest lenses full-frame offers. One thing does make us hopeful – recent conversations with some forum members alerted us to the fact that certain full-frame lenses, like the Zeiss Otus primes, actually project an image circle large enough for at least a square crop on Fujifilm’s new MF format. That would essentially get you high quality F1.1 equivalent glass on the GFX 50S. Cool, if you can focus it, anyway… (the GFX focus even with native lenses is anything but fast or intelligent, by the way). But if we see more and more fast full-frame lenses able to cover the image circle of the GFX G50S, then we’re more likely to actually experience the benefits of the larger sensor format, though native fast lenses (that aren’t slow unit focus, please) are really what we need.

    Else, the potential advantages may be outweighed by the disadvantages: the extra weight, heft, price and severely lacking autofocus. And the GFX 50S has given up some of the noise and false color advantages their X-Trans cameras show…

    For now, we hope that looking at the problem through the lens of equivalence at least gives you an idea of how big (or small) you can reasonably expect the differences to be. Maybe it even saves you a dime or two. Or makes you want to yell at us for bringing up equivalence, again.

    But at the end of the day, equivalence has left me rather equivocal about medium format digital. What about you? Let us know in the comments below.

    Editorial note: The headline of this opinion article has been updated to make it clearer that the points expressed are not intended to be taken as being specific to a single product, but represent discussion of the pros and cons of the emerging enthusiast medium-format camera class as a whole. 


    Footnotes:

    * It’s also why ‘multi-shot’ modes yield cleaner images than single shots: these modes essentially capture more total light, averaging out shot noise. It’s also why brighter scenes generally look cleaner than low light scenes: more light = more photons captured = less relative shot noise = higher signal:noise ratio (SNR, or ‘cleanliness’ in laymen terms).

    ** The GFX 50S’ 44x33mm sensor has an effective 0.78x crop factor, so you can multiply the MF lens’ f-number by 0.78 to get the equivalent full-frame f-number.

    *** We don’t control for T-stop, which could partially explain the drastic exposure difference. This doesn’t affect our experiment though, as we applied well-vetted ‘Expose to the Right’ (ETTR) principles for a fair comparison

    **** Blind test: our ISO 12,800 studio scene shots of the GFX 50S and the a7R II have both been resized to 42MP, and a 576px wide 1:1 crop has been taken. Can you tell which is which?

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)