Nikon has announced two digiscoping accessories for its 1 System cameras, allowing them to be used to take pictures through telescopes. The DSA-N1 can be used to connect a Nikon 1 system camera directly to a telescope eyepiece. Meanwhile the DSB-N1 is a bracket that holds the camera behind the telescope, and includes a mechanical cable release adapter. Both will be available in December, with RRPs of £219.99 and £169.99 for the DSA-N1 and DSB-N1 respectively.
Nikon has announced two digiscoping accessories for its 1 System cameras, allowing them to be used to take pictures through telescopes. The DSA-N1 can be used to connect a Nikon 1 system camera directly to a telescope eyepiece. Meanwhile the DSB-N1 is a bracket that holds the camera behind the telescope, and includes a mechanical cable release adapter. Both will be available in December, with RRPs of £219.99 and £169.99 for the DSA-N1 and DSB-N1 respectively.
“All of my digiscoping photos are out of focus” is pretty much the most common thing that digiscopers say to me. This normally has very little to do with focus, and everything to do with camera shake. Camera shake is a killer, and shutter speed its blade. Now in normal daylight conditions, pretty much anyone can take a half decent (sharp) photo with a digital camera. Just keep it on that little green square (full automatic mode), and away you go. As easy as that. Digiscoping is something completely different. Focal lengths in digiscoping typically range from long (say 800mm) to the ludicrous (5000+ mm) and this brings with it a whole pile of issues. Professional telephoto photographers deal with these issues all the time and digiscoping is no different. It requires the digiscoper to commit time and energy to start to think more like a serious photographer. To understand what shutter speed, aperture, ISO and all those other fantastic things are all about. So, what shutter speed do I need to get a good, sharp digiscoping photo? This is, unfortunately, not a simple question to answer and depends on many factors including: – type of camera (DSLR with a flapping mirror, or little compact camera?), – how steady your setup and hand are (just had a Red Bull and espresso?) – how much your subject is moving (tortoise or hare?), and – luck (had to add that 😉 – DSLRs have a flapping mirror = need more shutter speed As the name suggests, DSLRs have a mirror that flaps about all over …
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Five things to consider when wanting to get sharp digiscoping photos: 1. Get good focus – use the optical viewfinder of a DSLR or macro autofocus of a compact camera. 2. Understand your camera settings – use ISO and Aperture setting to get photos with low noise (low ISO) and with a wide open aperture (smallest f number in Aperture Priority mode) to get the fastest shutter speed possible for those conditions. 3. Use a remote release of countdown timer – anything that lets you reduce the shake of the camera will improve the sharpness of the images taken with the digiscoping setup 4. Use a stable platform – carbonfibre tripods are light and dampen vibrations effectively. If you are using a tripod, make sure you use a telescope balance rail as adding the weight to the back of the telescope tends to pull the whole setup out of balance and introduce/accentuate camera shake. Even better than a tripod is a Bean Bag. These are very easy to make and – filled with beans, rice or corn – make excellent vibration-dampening camera/telescope supports. 5. Use good quality optics – photographers have been saying this for decades: buy good quality lenses first, and then think about upgrading your camera body. Applied to digiscoping, the quality of the image coming through your scope will largely determine the quality of the image you are able to get out of your digiscoping setup. In this video: Swarovski Optik STM80 HD spotting scope, 25-50x wide eyepiece, UCA digiscoping adapter, Canon …
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