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How to Create a Vignette in Photoshop

11 Feb

The post How to Create a Vignette in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Do you want to know how to create a vignette in Photoshop?

In this article, we’ll show you a step-by-step method to do just that.

And by the time you’re finished, you’ll be able to apply a vignette to any digital photograph quickly and easily.

Let’s get started.

a subtle vignette on a field of lavender how to create a vignette in Photoshop — A subtle vignette added in Photoshop.
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | 1/125s | f/5 | ISO 100

What is a vignette?

In photography, a vignette is any shadowy darkness that appears around the periphery of an image.

Like this:

Exaggerated vignette example — An artificial, highly-exaggerated example of vignetting.

Now, vignetting can occur for a number of reasons.

For instance, optical vignetting is caused by the physics of wide-aperture lenses, which allows less light to reach the edges of the camera sensor.

But the type of vignetting we’re interested in for this article is artificial vignetting – where you create vignetting yourself using a program such as Photoshop.

Why create a Photoshop vignette?

Vignetting can be a contentious topic in photographic circles. Some photographers love vignettes, while others loathe them.

But as photography has evolved, applying artificial vignettes in Photoshop has become a useful compositional device. Vignettes are an enduring photographic technique that can add to the gravitas of an image by creating a sense of atmosphere, age, or depth.

How to create a vignette in Photoshop

There are quite a few ways to create a vignette in Photoshop, and in this article, I’m going to cover three of them.

These methods are simple, easy to apply, and will do a great job of creating a customizable vignette effect.

Method 1: The Lens Correction filter

If you’re looking for a quick way to create a vignette, then this method is a perfect choice.

To start off, open your image in Photoshop.

I’m going to use this lavender photo:

how to create a vignette in Photoshop a starter image of lavender

Step 1: Create a layer for your vignette

In Photoshop, it’s best to edit non-destructively; that way, you can always go back and adjust your original file if required.

So right-click on the Background layer in the Layers panel, then select Duplicate Layer.

In the pop-up window, rename the layer Vignette.

Step 2: Lens Correction filter

With the Vignette layer selected, click Filter in the Photoshop menu. Then select Lens Correction.

A new Lens Correction window will open. Click the Custom tab on the right-hand panel. Under the Vignette heading, adjust the Amount and Midpoint sliders until you’re happy with the vignette effect.

Then click OK.

how to create a vignette in photoshop lens correction

If the image looks a little dull after applying the vignette, you can give it a contrast boost with a Curves adjustment layer. You can also adjust the intensity of the colors with a Vibrance adjustment layer. Make edits until you’re satisfied, then call it a day!

final vignette using the Lens Correction filter — Keeping it subtle; the final result of the Lens Correction vignette method.

Method 2: The Gradient fill layer

This second method is a little more complex than the Lens Correction method, but it’s also more flexible.

Step 1: Set the foreground color to black

With your file open in Photoshop, the first thing to check is that the foreground color swatch is set to black.

To revert to the Photoshop default of a black foreground and a white background, press the D key.

Step 2: Add a Gradient fill layer

Next, click on the Layer menu and select New Fill Layer>Gradient. Click OK on the first pop-up window that appears.

There will be a second pop-up, the Gradient fill settings window. Make sure to tick the Reverse box. Set the Style to Radial and input the Scale to alter the intensity of the gradient (smaller numbers correspond to a more intense gradient). I usually enter around 300% to 350%.

how to create a vignette with a Photoshop gradient

Click OK.

Gradient Fill final image — The image after the Gradient fill layer has been applied.

Step 3: Experiment with opacity and blending modes

Once you’ve applied the Gradient fill layer, your image may look a little dark and flat. To blend the gradient effect more carefully, make sure the Gradient fill layer is selected and reduce the opacity of the layer via the Opacity slider.

Each image will be different, but I usually reduce the opacity of the Gradient Fill layer to around the 50% mark.

a reduced opacity version of the lavender image — The vignette effect is more subtle with the opacity reduced.

To further blend the Gradient fill layer with the underlying image, you can also work with Photoshop blending modes.

Click on the blend mode dropdown menu and see what works best for your image.

Finally, if your image is still feeling a little flat, make some adjustments with a Curves layer to boost the contrast.

Vignette with the Hard Light blend mode applied to a Gradient fill layer. — The final result, with a Hard Light blending mode applied to the Gradient fill layer and a contrast boost with a Curves adjustment layer.

Method 3: Using the Shape tool

Photoshop’s Shape tool has endless uses – including adding a vignette to a photograph.

And by working with an ellipse shape, you can easily create a versatile vignette.

Step 1: Create an ellipse

First, make sure your foreground color is set to black.

Then, with your image open in Photoshop, select an ellipse from the Shape Tool menu on the far left Photoshop toolbar. Check to make sure that the Fill swatch located toward the top of the screen in the Shape menu is set to solid black (if it’s not, then double-click and adjust the Fill color).

Once the color is set, drag the ellipse outline over your image to form an oval shape. When you release the mouse button, the shape will automatically fill with black.

How to create a vignette in Photoshop with the Shape tool

Step 2: Invert the ellipse

With your Ellipse layer selected, click on the Properties window and select the Subtract front shape icon located under the Pathfinder heading (see below). The shape will reverse, creating a black border around a now-transparent ellipse.

creating a reverse selection with the Ellipse tool

Step 3: Adjust the vignette with masks

Make sure the Ellipse layer is selected, then refer back to the Properties menu.

This time, click the Masks icon; it looks like a gray circle on a dark background (see below). The Masks menu allows you to adjust the Density and Feather of the Ellipse layer. I usually leave the Density at 100%, but I push the Feather adjustment to its upper limits (which softens the vignette effect).

Using masks to adjust the vignette effect — The Feather slider softens the edges of the vignette.

Step 4: Add finishing touches to your vignette

To increase the subtlety of the vignette, you can adjust the opacity of the Ellipse layer.

Experimenting with different blending modes is another effective way to adjust the impact of the artificial vignette.

And feel free to alter the dimensions of the vignette with the Transform options or tweak the contrast and saturation with layered adjustments.

how to create a vignette effect in Photoshop final result of Ellipse Tool vignette method — The results of applying a vignette with the Shape tool in Photoshop.

How to create a vignette in Photoshop: Conclusion

As you can see, applying vignettes to your photos in Photoshop doesn’t have to be hard.

In fact, it’s really very simple!

So open some of your favorite images in Photoshop. See how they look with vignettes.

Because a subtle vignette can make a big difference!

Photoshop vignetting FAQs

What is a vignette?

A vignette is a darkening around the periphery of a photograph. It occurs for various reasons in many photographic circumstances.

How do I add a vignette in Photoshop?

There are several ways to create a vignette in Photoshop. The methods listed in this article are simple and effective ways to apply a vignette aesthetic.

Where can I find the vignette tool in Photoshop?

Unfortunately, Photoshop doesn’t offer a vignette tool. However, you can easily create a vignette with the Shape tool, a Gradient fill layer, or a Lens Corrections filter.

How do I remove in-camera vignetting?

The easiest way to remove vignetting in post-production is to open the image in Photoshop and – with the image layer selected – click Filter>Lens Correction. The Lens Correction window will present various options for reducing unwanted vignetting.

The post How to Create a Vignette in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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How to Create a Watermark with the Pen Tool in Photoshop

02 Dec

The post How to Create a Watermark with the Pen Tool in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Did you know that you can create a watermark with the Pen tool? Watermarking images is one of those issues that sparks strong feelings; some people love it and others hate it.

I think the success of a watermark is a matter of knowing when to use it and how to make it.

This article will show you how to create a watermark – using only the Pen tool in Photoshop!

Watermark your images using the pen tool in Photoshop

What is a watermark?

A watermark is a digital “signature” that you add to your photographs. It doesn’t have to be a literal signature, though – you can use a logo, your name, or just the copyright symbol.

The purpose of the watermark is either to protect your work or to advertise yourself. But you’ll want to make sure that your watermark isn’t too distracting. Otherwise, you are defeating the point of showing your work online.

What is the Photoshop Pen tool?

The Pen tool is one of the most useful features in Photoshop, yet it’s very underused because it’s mostly associated with making selections.

Since there are many selection tools that have easier learning curves, a lot of people don’t really get to know the Pen tool’s full potential.

While the Pen tool is in fact a very precise tool for making selections, the biggest advantage of the Pen tool is that you can work with paths. From a path, you can make vector masks, strokes, shapes, and even fonts.

Why should you create a watermark with the Pen tool?

There are different ways of creating a watermark in Photoshop. I believe that using Pen tool is the most efficient.

For one, a watermark created with the Pen tool will be vector art. You can enlarge it or shrink it many times and never lose quality.

That way, you can use it for all your needs. Also, paths remain editable for you to come back to and modify any time you want.

Shapes in Photoshop are also vector-based. But with the Pen tool, you have full creative freedom. You can draw anything you want and convert it into a shape or use it to trace a brushstroke.

As you can see, you can combine a series of elements and techniques that will allow you to create the perfect watermark. In the following guide, I’ll be showing you how to do it.

Let’s get started!

How to create a watermark with the Pen tool

To quickly create a watermark, just follow these simple steps:

Step 1: Open a new document

Open Adobe Photoshop and create a new document. The size and resolution are not important because you’ll be working with vectors, so you can always scale it later.

The only thing that you need to remember is to set the Background Contents option as Transparent.

Step 2: Make a sketch

This step is optional, but I find it very helpful. What I like to do is add a new layer (though it’s important that it’s transparent).

Turn a sketch into a watermark using the pen tool

With the Brush tool set to a bright color, I start by drawing how I want my watermark to look at the end.

Unless you are a very gifted designer, the drawing won’t look very good. This is what always happens to me, and it’s one of the reasons why using the Pen tool is better than using the Brush tool to ultimately create your watermark.

In any case, doing a rough sketch will give you an idea of the size and proportion of the elements you want to include.

Step 3: Trace a path

I’m going to add a black layer to make the work more visible for you. You can do this, too, if it helps you, but remember to delete it at the end.

Grab the Pen tool from the toolbox on the left or activate it with its keyboard shortcut (the “P” key).

At the top of the screen, you’ll see how the options change. Make sure your Pen tool is set to Path. Then just click to add the first anchor point.

Create a watermark using the pen tool in Photoshop — You can move the anchor points to modify the path by holding the Ctrl/Cmd key. You can also adjust the handles by holding the Alt/Option key.

Continue creating anchor points, following the shape that you’d like to create. To curve the path, just drag the anchor point until the handles appear. You can use the handles to adjust the curvature.

If this is your first time using the Pen tool, you can check out this guide. Don’t worry if it doesn’t come out perfect on the first try.

Paths are always editable, so you can correct any mistakes. You can make the entire design in a single path, or make separate ones.

Step 4: Stroke the path

Open the Brush tool and choose the settings that you want for the design that you’re creating. This includes the color, the size, the hardness, and the shape of the brush.

Then open the Paths panel. If it’s not active, you can access it from the menu: Windows > Paths.

Now, right-click on your working path and choose Stroke Path from the menu. Make sure you select Brush in the Tool dropdown menu, then hit OK. This will apply the settings that you have set on your Brush tool.

If you’re not happy with the result, just hit Undo and change the settings on your brush until you’re satisfied.

Disable or lower the opacity of the sketch layer for better visibility.

Step 5: Make shapes

Create shapes using the Pen tool in Photoshop

Sometimes, instead of strokes, you need to make shapes. For that, grab the Pen tool and change it from Path to Shape in the Options bar.

Here, you can change the fill or the stroke as you need. It is also possible to create complex designs with a single path by combining or intersecting multiple shapes. This can also be set up in the Options bar.

Step 6: Convert strokes to shapes

If you go to the Layers panel, you’ll notice that the paths you converted to strokes are now rasterized. This means they are using pixels instead of vectors.

To change that, go back to the Paths panel and click on the corresponding path. Then activate the Pen tool and choose Shape:

how to create a watermark with the Pen tool in Photoshop select make shape

Step 7: Merge shapes and save

Once you’re done, delete all the rasterized layers, including the one with the sketch and the black background.

If you want, you can save a .PSD copy with all the layers before moving on.

Then select all the shapes, right-click, and choose Merge Shapes.

Then save your document as a .PNG, which will preserve transparency. This is important because other formats will fill the background with white.

Step 8: Watermark your photos

Open any image you want to watermark. Then go to File>Place Embedded. If you’re using Photoshop CS6, it will be called Place.

This will open a browser window. Choose your watermark file and click OK. This will open your watermark in Photoshop.

Resize it and position it to your liking. You can also reduce the opacity if you think the watermark is too distracting.

And that’s it! Remember that you can save this step as a Photoshop action to automate the watermarking process.

Other ways to create a watermark in Photoshop

I hope you enjoyed using the Pen tool to create watermarks. However, this is not the only way to do it. If you want to try different methods, check out any of these amazing tutorials:

How to Create Your Own Watermark using a Custom Shape in Photoshop
How to Automate Your Watermarking
How to Watermark Your Images Using Lightroom and Photoshop CC
How to Create Custom Brushes in Photoshop and use them for watermarking

The post How to Create a Watermark with the Pen Tool in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography

21 Nov

The post 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Gina Milicia.

portrait photography with beautiful eyes — Image model credits, clockwise from top left: Chris Milligan/Fremantle Media, Rachael Lever, Danny Spannerz/East Brunswick Tattoos, Tiffany Diaz

“Here’s looking at you, kid.”

Reclusive Hollywood legend Marlon Brando would always close his eyes when paparazzi tried to take his photo. He knew that without his eyes open the image wasn’t worth publishing.

The eyes are the single most important feature of any portrait. Beautiful eyes can make even the dullest portrait mesmerizing. Poorly lit, out of focus eyes, or eyes that lack connection, will weaken the impact of a portrait.

Here are my three favorite techniques to make eyes really stand out in your portrait photography.

1. Light

“Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.” – George Eastman

Eyes look best when they are lit well, with beautiful catch lights. Catch lights are the reflection of a light source in the eyes. The size, shape, and brightness of your catch lights depend on the light source you use.

An eye lit by windows — Two large, frosted windows from my studio create beautiful catch lights. Model: Bryana Karanikos

Naked Flash on camera — Diffused on-camera flash creates a slightly softer, rectangular catch light.

Eyes lit by a medium softbox off camera — A medium softbox, off-camera and positioned at 2 o’clock, gives a soft, natural catch light.

Badly lit eyes — Poorly-lit eyes without catch lights look cold and a bit creepy.

2. Expression

“You are what you think. All that you are arises from your thoughts. With your thoughts, you make your world.” – Anon.

Comparison of portrait photography with bad and good eyes — Model: Tiffany Dias

In the image on the left (above), Tiffany’s eyes are cold, and she looks nervous. After I gave Tiffany a visualization exercise, her eyes became warm, confident, and connected (see the right image above).

How you communicate, connect with, and direct your model is key to capturing a great expression in the eyes. If your model’s smile isn’t genuine, his or her eyes will appear cold and dull-looking. If your model is nervous or distracted, this too will be reflected in his or her eyes.

One technique I use to create a great expression is visualization. I ask my model:

If you could be anywhere right now, doing anything, where would that be? Tell me about that moment. Who is there? What does it feel like?

Once your model is in the moment of their visualization, their body language and expression changes.

3. Post-production

“Be willing to give that extra effort that separates the winner from the one in second place.” — H. Jackson Brown, Jr.

Post-production can lift your portrait photography from good to great – when it’s done well. The key to great post-production is to avoid overdoing it. It’s easy to get excited with all the tricks and enhancements that post-production software offers. It’s addictive, and much like opening a jar of Nutella, it’s very difficult to control yourself once you’ve begun.

I try and use the overnight rule when it comes to retouching. Once I’ve worked on an image, I won’t look at it again for at least a day. I find that my eyes constantly adjust to the modifications I’m making, so it’s more difficult to see when I’ve gone too far (which is also what happened when I dressed in the ’80s).

Here’s a step-by-step technique to enhance eyes using Adobe Lightroom:

Before and after images of eyes — Before and after: I’ve used Lightroom to make the eyes sharper and brighter and to enhance their color.

Step 1: Import your image into Lightroom and use the Basic panel in the Develop module to edit your shot. In this case, I’ve used one of my own beauty presets.

eye adjustments in Lightroom — Here are the basic adjustments I’ve used for this image.

Step 2: Zoom in on the eyes (“B” in the image below) and select the Adjustment Brush tool (“A” in the image below). You can also select the Adjustment Brush using the keyboard shortcut “K.”

Adjusting the eyes in portrait photography

Step 3: Next, you should adjust the eye color with the Adjustment Brush:

Increase the Temperature slider (A) to make the eyes appear warmer in tone.
Increase the Exposure slider (B) to brighten the iris.
Increase the Shadow slider (C) to bring more detail into the shadow area.
Increase the Sharpness slider (D) to make the eyes appear more detailed.

Adjust only the colored part (the iris) of your subject’s eye (highlighted in red in the image above) and set the brush to have a slight feather and a low flow so you can build up your adjustments slowly.

Step 4: Next, select a new Adjustment Brush (A, below), increase the Sharpness slider (B, below) by +22, and paint over the colored part of the eyes, eyelashes, and eyebrows. This will really make the eyes stand out.

Step 5: Finally, select a new Adjustment Brush. Set the Exposure slider to -29, and increase the Clarity to +10. Paint around the edge of the iris. This will darken the area slightly and give the eye more definition.

Here, the final portrait was imported into Adobe Photoshop, where I did a basic skin retouching to remove a few small blemishes.

And that’s it!

I’d love to hear about your techniques for enhancing eyes in portrait photography, and it’d be great to see some examples. So share them in the comments!

Gina is the author of several dPS eBooks, including Portraits: Making the Shot.

The post 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Gina Milicia.

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Researchers create 100 billion FPS 3D camera with lens that mimics human eyes

28 Oct

A study recently published in Nature Communications details the creation of an ultra-fast 3D camera capable of recording at 100 billion frames per second. The development comes from Lihong Wang and his team at Caltech, where the researchers developed this new camera using the same foundational technology found in Wang’s previous 70 trillion frames per second project.

The newly detailed camera produces what the researchers call ‘single-shot stereo-polarimetric compressed ultrafast photography’ (SP-CUP), a technology that records video at insanely fast speeds in three dimensions. This is made possible, in part, by creating the camera to perceive the world in a way similar to how a human sees — with two eyes, or in the case of the camera, with a halved lens that simulates looking at the world with two eyes.

The result is a camera that records video at insanely fast speeds in three dimensions. The technology is able to capture ‘non-repeatable 5D … evolving phenomena at picosecond temporal resolution,’ according to the study, referring to space, time of arrival, and angle of linear polarization. The study goes on to explain:

Disruptively advancing existing CUP techniques in imaging capability, SP-CUP enables simultaneous and efficient ultrafast recording of polarization in three-dimensional space. Compared with available single-shot ultrafast imaging techniques, SP-CUP has prominent advantages in light throughput, sequence depth, as well as spatiotemporal resolution and scalability in high-dimensional imaging.

Wang and his lab first detailed the 70 trillion frames per second camera back in May, explaining that such speeds were capable of capturing the fluorescent decay from molecules and waves of light as they traveled.

That particular camera technology was called compressed ultrafast spectral photography (CUSP), and it followed Wang’s past work on similar technologies, including the phase-sensitive compressed ultrafast photography (pCUP) device, Caltech had explained in a release.

With the newly detailed SP-CUP technology, the camera captures stereo imagery — 10 billion images in the blink of an eye — using a single lens that has been halved in order to capture two different slightly offset channels of the subject. This is similar to how the human eye works, enabling humans to perceive depth. The image data can be processed to create 3D content, which itself exceeds the capabilities of the human eye by including data on the polarization of light.

The sum total of this new photography technology opens the door for various scientific applications, including research in the field of physics. In particular, Wang sees the potential use of this camera in exploring the mystery of sonoluminescence, a phenomenon in which sound waves produce small bubbles in liquids that, when they collapse, produce tiny bursts of light.

Wang explained:

Some people consider this one of the greatest mysteries in physics. When a bubble collapses, its interior reaches such a high temperature that it generates light. The process that makes this happen is very mysterious because it all happens so fast, and we’re wondering if our camera can help us figure it out.

The study titled ‘Single-shot stereo-polarimetric compressed ultrafast photography for light-speed observation of high-dimensional optical transients with picosecond resolution’ is available in Nature Communications.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Video: How to create ‘mind-bending’ drone photos with a little creative thinking

19 Oct

The Cooperative of Photography, better known as COOPH, has shared ‘Droneception,’ a quick tutorial video that breaks down how to create ‘mind-bending’ drone images using two-shot, three-shot and more advanced multi-shot methods.

The video is three-and-a-half minutes long with only visuals and text overlays for instructions, but it’s succinct and manages to effectively convey the steps required to get the shots and make the final compositions. These methods should work with nearly any drone, so whether you’re using the newest DJI or a few year old no-name brand, the magic happens with the creative thinking ahead of time and the post-processing done afterwards.

For more videos, head over and subscribe to COOPH’s YouTube Channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Easily Create 2D Illustrations from Photographs Using GIMP

14 Oct

The post Easily Create 2D Illustrations from Photographs Using GIMP appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

From advertising campaigns to cartooning your profile photo, 2D illustrations are used much more than you realize. Creating 2D illustrations can be a lot of fun, but they aren’t necessarily easy to do. Here’s an uncomplicated way to use photography as a template to get great 2D illustration results.

Create 2D illustrations from a photograph

Create 2D illustrations in GIMP

There are tons of programs for visual artists and graphic designers that specialize in digital drawing and 2D illustrations, but have you ever tried to actually create an illustration from scratch?

Graphic design software can be amazing and, for some great professionals, this can be the way to go. But many of us need a starting point to get us going, especially if our talent is in photography and not design.

That’s why I’m going to show you how to use GIMP to create 2D illustrations out of a photograph.

1. Draw the subject

First, choose the photo you want to draw. There are no restrictions here; you can use a portrait, a landscape, still-life, or anything else you want. I do suggest you start with images that are simple and don’t have too many details.

Create 2D illustrations using photographs

Imagine you’re creating an illustration from a photo in real life. You would place some tracing paper on top of your image and then start tracing and coloring on it, right? Well, this is the same thing.

First, create a new transparent layer. You can do this by going to Layer (in the menu) and then choosing New Layer. Make sure you select Fill with Transparency and press OK.

Next, you need to select the outer part of your subject. You can use any selection tool that works best for you; GIMP has many solutions for this.

For example, you can use the Path tool because it gives the most control. Just click every time you want to create an anchor point around your subject. Then move the path handles to adjust the curvature.

Once you’re done outlining your subject, click Selection from Path on the left-side Options panel. This will turn your path into a selection, which is what you want. But note that this is only necessary if you used the Path tool; with any of the other selection tools, you can skip this step.

Now you can use the Bucket tool to color your entire subject. You can use the color picker to select a color that matches the original color from the photo.

Of course, you can also use a color different from the original object. Get as creative as you want.

Finally, click inside the selection to fill it with your chosen color.

2. Color the inside shapes

Now that you have your main shape, you can start adding some shapes on the inside of your subject using different colors.

To do this, disable the top layer by clicking on the eye icon next to it. That way, you can see the original image.

Select the area you want to color. Then come back to the top layer and use the Bucket tool with a new color to fill it.

Repeat this process for all the shapes you want. Keep in mind that 2D illustrations are not as detailed as a realistic 3D model. So keep going only to add enough information to your subject to make it recognizable.

You don’t have to be extremely precise with your selection when you’re working inside a shape. GIMP will automatically stop at the edge. Notice in the next image how my selection is over to the yellow part, but the new color doesn’t spill there; it stops at the edge of the dark brown shape.

3. Add some details

Working on the top layer, turn down the Opacity so that you can see the original image underneath to use as a template for drawing details. Keep in mind that only you will see both versions (the illustrated and the original), so you don’t have to copy everything exactly as it is.

If you want to add details with thin lines and you don’t have a steady hand, you can use the Path tool to trace them. Then choose Stroke Path from the Options Panel. This will draw a line using the current Brush or Pencil settings.

Of course, you can draw the details freehand using the Pencil or the Brush tool, as well.

To add some thicker decorations, you can use the selection tools again to make things faster. In this example, I used the Color Selection tool to select the blues on the original photo. I then painted the flower:

Use the selection tools to paint the details

The specific tools and strategies that you use will depend on the illustration you are creating and your own drawing skills.

4. Fill the background

If you want to draw a background, then add a New Layer in between the original photograph and the first drawing layer.

Choose the color you want, then go to Edit>Fill with FG color. FG stands for “foreground.”

You can leave the background as a solid color or add some decoration by drawing lines and shapes the same way you did for the subject.

Create 2D Illustration with creative backgrounds

Final thoughts

As you can see, by using a photograph as a template it’s really easy to create 2D Illustrations.

When you’re saving your file, remember that GIMP has its own format that will be the default setting when you use the Save or Save As choices. To use a universal file format such as JPEG or TIFF, you need to select Export As.

I hope you enjoyed the tutorial! The next time you want to create 2D Illustrations, let your photography skills help you out.

The post Easily Create 2D Illustrations from Photographs Using GIMP appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)

29 Aug

The post Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ed Verosky.

Ed Verosky is a professional photographer and author based in New York. In this article, Verosky explains how to create portraits using natural and ambient light only. To learn more about achieving great lighting in any situation, check out Verosky’s popular eBook, “100% Reliable Flash Photography.“

Note: This post contains one image with very mild nudity (in fact, so mild you might not even see it).

For me, using flash can be the most efficient way to create a high-quality portrait. There’s nothing like it for an editorial shoot when you need that combination of full lighting control, minimal shooting time, and predictable results. Sure, you have to know what you’re doing to make it come together like that. But that ability comes with knowledge and experience.

Mastering flash means mastering your light in any situation. Sometimes, however, there is beautiful light to be found, just waiting there for you to use it. Natural and constant ambient light can be your best friends if you have a little time and flexibility with the environment and your subject.

Constant light, as opposed to flash/strobe lighting, will allow you to see and adjust its effect on your subject and the environment in real-time. This is a great way to learn about lighting placement and this knowledge and experience will certainly carry over into your flash portraiture. As I like to say, “light is light,” meaning that the principles of lighting a subject and the environment are essentially the same whether the light source is a quick “flash” or a constant illumination.

The main difference is that the flash is capable of producing a more intense light but with too short of a duration for the photographer to see the effects of its position on the subject in real-time. With constant lighting, you can casually move the lights and your subject around and know instantly how the changes will affect the portrait you’re making. With a few test shots to check exposure, you’re good to go.

Lighting setups

Natural light. Window light is just about the most beautiful light you can find when the conditions are right. It can serve as a huge softbox and be manipulated with any combination of window dressings such as blinds and curtains. Simply place your subject nearby the window and let the light create much of the portrait’s drama. I like to position the subject so that there is plenty of shadow to one side, providing many options for classic portraiture looks.

Window light narrowed with curtains. ISO 800, 50mm, f/2.8, 1/80 sec.

Household lights. You can also make great use of simple household lamps. I like to remove the shades off the room lights and utilize them as bare bulb light sources. To start off, just position the main light in front and to one side of your subject, preferably several inches higher than their head. This will give you a classic lighting pattern to work with. A second light may be placed farther back from the subject and serve as a backlight or kicker, which will add dimension.

A setup consisting of two household lamps, minus the lampshades. The kicker is behind Kelly ,and the main lamp is almost directly in front of her, just to camera right. ISO 800, 50mm, f/2.8, 1/60 sec.

Camera settings

My general advice for any indoor shooting is to think “fast and wide.” Your initial camera settings should be a balance of the highest ISO possible that will still provide acceptable noise levels for your purposes, the widest aperture your lens will allow, and the fastest workable shutter speed.

Of course, each of these controls is interrelated and integral to overall exposure, so you’ll have to make some adjustments and concessions for the environment you’re working in, and for the effect you’re trying to achieve in your shots.

Fortunately, most DSLRs are now capable of low noise even when using high ISO speeds, so most room lighting and even low natural light won’t be a problem for you. But even if your camera happens to produce lots of noise at higher ISOs, that isn’t necessarily a big concern. Either leave the noise as is, or bring some of it down in post-processing using your choice of available noise reduction techniques.

Many photographers actually artificially add noise back into their images in order to reproduce the look of film, or otherwise reduce the super-clean, slick, digital look coming out of the camera. Simple advice: Don’t worry about the noise unless it gets in the way of the image you’re trying to create.

Another thing that will really help with achieving beautiful portraits in lower lighting situations is a fast lens. By “fast,” we’re referring to a lens with a wide aperture of at least f/2.8. The wider the aperture, the more light the lens allows to pass through in a given unit of time. This will give you more freedom with your ISO settings (as they won’t have to be so high to compensate for less light coming in through the lens), and faster shutter speeds (as they won’t have to be so low to compensate for less light coming in through the lens). Lenses with wider apertures also have the capability of shallow depth-of-field, which can greatly add to the interest and mystique of your portraiture.

Shutter speed is an important consideration not just because of its effect on overall exposure, but also because of potential blur with lower shutter speeds. As with ISO, however, the effect of supposedly less-than-optimal shutter speeds is what you make it. You might find an occasional blurry image makes a rather artistic statement. Every portrait doesn’t have to be as sharp as a tack.

Another household lightbulb setup, featuring Chris. I used a bare household lightbulb off to camera-left to illuminate her on one side and the background at the same time. The main light is coming in from camera right. ISO 800, 85mm, f/1.8, 1/60 sec.

So, with those factors in mind, you might want to try the following exposure combination as a starting point and adjust according to your needs:

Camera Mode: Aperture Priority
Aperture: f/2.8 (or the widest possible for your lens)
ISO: 800
Shutter Speed (target): 1/100 sec. or higher.

In Aperture Priority mode, your camera will automatically set the shutter speed for you while you control everything else. You’ll have to pay attention to your shutter speed to make sure it isn’t falling so low as to create unwanted blurring. Again, these are just starting points. With a stationary pose and a steady hand, I’ve managed handheld shutter speeds as low as 1/15 sec. and produced good results. You might also want to try your camera’s Manual mode to maintain full control of your settings. If your lighting conditions are going to be fairly static, I’d recommend it.

Also, you will most likely benefit from shooting in your camera’s RAW (NEF) format so that critical adjustments, like white balance, exposure, and contrast, can be made easily and with minimal loss of information in post-processing. Although white balance settings aren’t actually imposed on the RAW file, you can set white balance as you wish during shooting in order to get an idea of what the final image might look like. Plus, a chosen WB setting will tell your processing software what color temperature and tint settings to best start off with for each image.

Window light illuminates Satu. ISO 800, 50mm, f/4, 1/200 sec.

Post-Processing

Aside from the creative post-processing possible with your ambient light images, there are some things you might want to address in the initial post-processing effort:

White Balance: Not all light sources produce the same color temperatures. Despite what they look like to our eyes, the camera will record various types of household lighting (fluorescent, tungsten, daylight balanced) and natural light (sunset, cloudy, shade) as producing different color casts.

So if you are shooting a portrait using a bright tungsten light as your subject’s main light, but you have a strong window light coming through in the background, you might have an undesirable color mix to deal with.

Fortunately, you can correct these types of color mismatches in post-processing by making a general white balance setting choice in your software and selectively altering the offending colors in specific parts of the image. If this isn’t something you’d like to worry about, then don’t. The colors might be acceptable just the way they are. If not, you always have artistic color-altering effects and even black and white conversion options. So, it’s all good.

Noise Issues: I personally like a little noise in my images most of the time. But if you had to use very high ISO settings to get your shots, and have the need to bring some of the noise down, there are a number of good built-in, stand-alone, and plug-in software options to handle this. I will occasionally use the noise reduction tools in Lightroom or my Photoshop Noise Ninja plug-in, for example.

Natural and ambient light photography indoors can be a great way to learn the finer points of lighting your portraits. The actual experience for you and your subject is also worlds apart from the strobe and studio effect of working with flash. Unlike outdoor shooting, indoor work without flash can introduce problems having to do with lower lighting situations. Using some of the advice above, you should be able to handle the challenges of low-light portraiture and come away with great-looking images.

If you would like to learn how to get amazing light in any situation, check out Ed Verosky’s eBook, “100% Reliable Flash Photography.” It’s a great resource that has helped thousands of photographers improve their use of flash and ambient light for portraiture.

The post Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ed Verosky.

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Google and UC Berkeley researchers create AI that can remove shadows from images

25 Aug

Researchers with the University of California Berkeley and Google Research have published a new paper detailing an AI that can remove unwanted shadows from images. The algorithm focuses on two different types of shadows — ones from external objects and ones naturally resulting from facial features — and works to either remove or soften them in order to maintain a natural appearance.

Whereas professional images are often taken in a studio with proper lighting, the average snapshot of a person is taken ‘in the wild’ where lighting conditions may be harsh, causing dark shadows that obscure parts of the subject’s face while other parts are covered with excessive highlights.

The newly developed AI is designed to address this problem by targeting those unwanted shadows and highlights, removing and softening them until a clearer subject remains. The researchers say their tool works in a ‘realistic and controllable way,’ and it could prove useful for more than just images captured in casual settings.

Professionals could, for example, use a tool like this to salvage images taken in outdoor environments where it was impossible to control the lighting, such as wedding images taken outdoors under a bright noon sun. In their paper, the researchers explain:

In this work, we attempt to provide some of the control over lighting that professional photographers have in studio environments to casual photographers in unconstrained environments … Given just a single image of a human subject taken in an unknown and unconstrained environment, our complete system is able to remove unwanted foreign shadows, soften harsh facial shadows, and balance the image’s lighting ratio to produce a flattering and realistic portrait image.

This project is designed to target three specific elements in these photographs: foreign shadows from external objects, facial shadows caused by one’s natural facial features and lighting ratios between the lightest and darkest parts of the subject’s face. Two different machine learning models are used to target these elements, one to remove foreign shadows and the other to soften facial shadows alongside lighting ratio adjustments.

The team evaluated their two machine learning models using both ‘in the wild’ and synthetic image datasets. The results are compared to existing state-of-the-art technologies that perform the same functions. ‘Our complete model clearly outperforms the others,’ the researchers note in the study, highlighting their system’s ability in a selection of processed sample images.

In addition to using the technology to adjust images, the study explains that this method can be tapped as a way to ‘preprocess’ images for other image-modifying algorithms, such as portrait relighting tools. The researchers explain:

Though often effective, these portrait relighting techniques sometimes produce suboptimal renderings when presented with input images that contain foreign shadows or harsh facial shadows. Our technique can improve a portrait relighting solution: our model can be used to remove these unwanted shadowing effects, producing a rendering that can then be used as input to a portrait relighting solution, resulting in an improved final rendering.

The system isn’t without limitations, however, particularly if the foreign shadows are presented with ‘many finely-detailed structures,’ some residue of which may remain even after the images are processed. As well, and due to the way the system works, some bilaterally symmetric shadows may not be removed from subjects,

In addition, softening the facial shadows using this technique may, at times, result in a soft, diffused appearance due to excessive smoothing of some fine details that should remain, such as in the subject’s hair, as well as causing a ‘flat’ appearance by softening some facial shadows.

As well, the researchers note that their complete system looks for two types of shadows — facial and foreign — and that it may confuse the two at times. If facial shadows on the subject are ‘sufficiently harsh,’ the system may detect them as foreign shadows and remove (rather than soften) them.

Talking about this issue, the researchers explain:

This suggests that our model may benefit from a unified approach for both kinds of shadows, though this approach is somewhat at odds with the constraints provided by image formation and our datasets: a unified learning approach would require a unified source of training data, and it is not clear how existing light stage scans or in-the-wild photographs could be used to construct a large, diverse, and photorealistic dataset in which both foreign and facial shadows are present and available as ground-truth.

Regardless, the study highlights yet another potential use for artificial intelligence technologies in the photography industry, paving the way for more capable and realistic editing that takes less time to perform than manual editing. A number of studies over the past few years have highlighted potential uses for AI, including transforming still images into moving animations and, in the most extreme cases, generating entire photo-realistic images.

As for this latest project, the researchers have made their code, evaluation data, test data, supplemental materials and paper available to download through the UC Berkeley website.

Via: Reddit

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage

15 Aug

The post How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nick Fancher.

The setup

If you want to take dramatic portraits on a black backdrop (without even needing a single light), a garage is your new go-to spot.

This is the simplest (and most makeshift looking) setup that I use. As you can see in the image above, all I am using is a piece of black foam core, folded into a “V,” set inside a garage on a sunny day.

While you can accomplish this setup on overcast days, having a sunny day helps to increase the brightness of everything outside the garage, thus increasing the catch light in the model’s eyes. The sunny daylight scene outside the garage essentially acts as a giant reflector, which illuminates the area under the subject’s chin to soften shadows.

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The reason why a garage is great for this kind of setup is that it allows you to place your subject closer or further away from the bright, outdoor light, depending on how much light you want in your subject’s eyes or how even you want the light to appear.

For example, if the subject is right at the edge of the garage, just out of the sun, the exposure will be very bright, requiring a very fast shutter speed and/or a small aperture, but they will have large catchlights in their eyes. Note that the smaller aperture will cause the image to be sharper from the front to the back. Also, the closer the subject is to the bright outside, the darker the background will be once you’ve adjusted your exposure for their skin tone.

Alternatively, if the subject is placed deeper into the garage, it allows you to use a wider aperture or slower shutter speed, which can create a flattering, softer, shallow depth of field look, though the catch light and overall light quality will change.

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Shooting in a garage is the equivalent to a one-light studio portrait since the only light source is the open garage door. This increases the appearance of the image being a studio portrait, as it mimics a large softbox or octabox (though an open garage door is larger and less expensive).

If you want to have more light, such as hair light and rim light, to create separation between a subject and the background, there is another option available to you. Simply place your subject on the shaded side of the garage, allowing the sun to light just the edges of your subject’s hair and shoulders, as seen below.

The one downside to having a huge wall of soft light in front of your subject is that it can flatten out the subject, which can make the lighting appear flat or boring. One remedy for this is flagging off portions of the light, as seen in the image below. Note that any object you place in front of the model to flag the light will also change the shape of the catchlights in their eyes.

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For portraits like this, you will want to use a focal length of at least 50mm or longer. Anything wider angle will lead to distortion of the subject’s features. Since you are shooting outdoors, you have unlimited space to back away from the subject. So I like to use my 70-200mm lens for these types of headshots.

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The other perks that come with shooting outside or in a garage are that you have a free hair fan and plenty of ventilation, which comes in handy when you’re shooting smoke.

My buddy Colin is a drummer in the band House of Heroes. He approached me to shoot the cover of their latest EP, Smoke. He wanted a dramatic, close-up of a girl’s face with smoke all around. I knew that my garage would be the perfect spot to conduct the shoot (as it’s open-air with bright light).

I placed whiteboards on either side of Courtney, which helped to not only fill in any shadows under her jaw but also add catchlights to her eyes. In addition to the images of Courtney, I also shot several frames of smoke being exhaled by Colin (try doing that inside a studio) isolated on the black backdrop, which was later overlaid on the final image of the model in post-production.

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Have you tried doing portraits in your garage or other makeshift location? Have any additional tips? Please share in the comments.

The post How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nick Fancher.

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Photography portfolio 101 – how to create a portfolio that puts your brand on display

11 Aug

Everyone was there once. Fruitful inspiration. Plenty of photos, but no idea on how to create a portfolio. And if you’re just like all the other photographers, you put off this moment for as long as you could. But with no portfolio to present your work, there are no clients interested in hiring you. For a passionate photographer, the thought Continue Reading

The post Photography portfolio 101 – how to create a portfolio that puts your brand on display appeared first on Photodoto.

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