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Posts Tagged ‘angle’

Irix announces 100mm filter system for wide angle lenses

21 Oct

Lens manufacturer Irix announced earlier today that it plans to release a filter holder and a collection of filters in 100x100mm and 100x150mm sizes—a system designed especially to fit its 15mm F2.4 lens. The holder accepts a special bayonet mount adapter to attach to the front of the 15mm lens, while a range of additional screw thread adapters will allow the holder to be used with other lenses.

The Irix Edge 100 system will consist of a dual slot holder that the company claims is the lightest in its class. The holder is made from ‘aluminium alloy’ and features a rotating joint to allow easy positioning of graduated filters and polarisers.

Irix says that the holder, called the IFH-100, has a profile that’s slim enough to avoid mechanical vignetting even when two filters are held in front of the 15mm lens, and that a layer of black velvet covering the forward surfaces prevents light leak during long exposures.

The filter system includes 2mm-thick filters in the 100x100mm and 100x150mm sizes—to begin with the company will launch mostly NDs, ND grads and a polarizer, but has plans to offer a filter that cuts the effect of pollution. The holder accepts filters from other systems as well, and the company plans to offer adapter rings for lenses with threads of between 67mm and 82mm. Irix already has a series of circular screw-in filters under the Edge brand.

Price and availability have yet to be announced. For more information visit the Irix website.

Press Release

Irix presents its Edge 100 filter system

The TH Swiss company would like to announce the expansion of its range of Irix accessories with the Edge 100 series filter system. Among new products, there will be a versatile holder – the IFH-100 – with dedicated adapters and a wide choice of 100x100mm and 100x150mm filters.

The Irix Edge IFH-100 filter holder

The Irix IFH-100 is a universal filter holder designed for size 100mm filters. Its lightweight compact construction and bayonet adapter are created especially for the Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens, allowing the use of two filters at the same time without any vignetting effect. The construction of the filter holder base on the removable adapters allows for quick and easily attachment to the lens, along with free rotation around the optical axis when using the graduated or polarizing filters.

The ability to use removable adapters with thread diameters from 67mm to 82mm means that the holder can be used with lenses produced by Irix in the future, along with other brands. Each adapter has an additional thread for attaching the cap to the lens.

The filter holder is made of an aluminium alloy, which guarantees the high strength and stiffness of its structure. This has enabled to get an extremely compact size while keeping wide functionality, along with an aesthetic design together with the whole Irix product line. It is worth mentioning that the IFH-100 is the lightest holder of its class. The front surface of the filter holder is covered with a light-absorbing velvet fabric that blocks access to the side light, what is especially important when using high density optical ND filters.

The Irix Edge 100 filters

With the introduction of the IFH-100 filter holder, the Edge 100 series filters will also be available in two formats. The first, size 100×150, will contain gradual filters with a soft and hard transition, and also a reversed gradual filter dedicated to taking pictures of sunrises and sunsets. These rectangular filters will be available in ND4, ND8 and ND16 versions. In the square format, Neutral Density filters with densities ND32, ND128, ND1000, ND1000K will be available for the 100x100mm, along with a polarizing filter. There are future plans by the manufacturer to introduce filters which reduce light pollution.

Edge 100 series filters have a thickness of 2mm and are made from high quality optical glass which is also used in the production of the optical elements in lenses. Filters are coated on both sides with an anti-reflective nano-coating to keep high contrast and natural colours in pictures. The additional water and oil repellent coating also ensures easy cleaning of the surface.

The premiere at Photo Plus Expo 2017

The Edge series will be available at the Irix booth (No.929) during the Photo Plus Expo in New York City on October 26-28, 2017.

The full range of new Irix Edge accessories, along with pricing and availability information, will be published in the near future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Mitakon launches Mk ll Nikon to Fuji X Turbo adapter that maintains angle of view

17 Mar

Chinese optical manufacturer Zhong Yi Optics has announced availability of a new version of its Turbo adapter that allows full-frame Nikon lenses to be mounted on Fujifilm X series compact system cameras while retaining the intended field of view.

The Lens Turbo ll N/G-FX uses a lens construction that reduces the effective focal length of the mounted lens by 0.726x, which compensates for the crop factor encountered when full frame lenses are used in front of an APS-C sensor – such as those used in the Fujifilm X series bodies. The compensation doesn’t work out exactly though, as a 50mm lens will end up acting as a 55mm would (it’s a net 1.09x crop). The focal length reduction also has the side-effect of increasing the maximum aperture of the lens by one stop.

Mitakon says that the new 4-element version of the Nikon adapter, which is also available for Canon and M42 lens uses, has improved optics which bring better resolution and aberration correction in the corners of the frame. The adapter is 32mm deep, has a diameter of 63mm and weighs 165g/5.82oz, and costs ¥21,000 plus tax/$ 150. For more information see the Mitakon website.

Manufacturer information

The Fuji X Camera Lens Turbo Adapter (Ver II) from Mitakon allows lenses to be mounted to APS-C format Fuji cameras, increasing the angle of view by 0.726x and the maximum aperture of the lens by 1 f-stop.

The four optical elements of the Lens Turbo adapter condense light from the full frame lens and project it onto the camera’s sensor allowing the sensor to capture all of the transmitted light, negating the crop factor and effectively producing full-frame coverage on non-full-frame sensors. A corresponding increase in the maximum aperture of 1 f-stop makes the lens more effective in low-light situations.

This adapter features 4 optical elements including one extra-low dispersion (ED) element which reduces aberrations for better delineated images. The adapter offers a sturdy metal construction and stainless steel mounts, it attaches to both camera and lens with little play and includes a front and rear protective cap. The Lens Turbo is a manual adapter offering no electronic communication between lens and camera. It is not compatible with Blackmagic cinema cameras.

* Allows lens to be mounted to Fuji X camera
* Increases the angle of view by 0.726
* Increases maximum aperture by 1 stop
* 4 lens elements in 4 groups including 1 extra-low dispersion element

This lens turbo adaptor may not fit all lenses due to different extensions at the lens rear mount. Lenses with extension more than 3mm are not recommended to use this lens turbo adaptor. Vignetting may occur if using APS-C lenses.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Rokinon 20mm F1.8 and Cine DS 20mm T1.9 Full Frame Super Wide Angle lenses now available

30 Dec

Rokinon has announced the launch of its new Rokinon Digital Photo 20mm F1.8 and Cine DS 20mm T1.9 Full Frame Super Wide Angle lenses. Both lenses are made from high-strength aluminum alloy and feature a super-wide 94.8-degree view, a non-rotating 77mm filter mount, Rokinon’s Ultra Multi-Coating, and a quiet, smooth focusing control.

These prime lenses, say Rokinon, offer both fast aperture and ‘the full frame perspective of 20mm,’ offering a solution that falls between the maker’s similar 14mm and 24mm models. These 20mm lenses have a 7.9in / 0.20m minimum focusing distance, 13 elements in 12 groups, three extra-low dispersion elements, and a pair of aspherical elements.

In addition to the ‘common’ features shared between the lenses, the Cine DS lens features geared aperture and controls, a de-clicked aperture control ring, and dual right/left side distance and t-stop scales. 

The Digital Photo lens is available for Canon, Nikon AE, Sony E, Micro Four Thirds, Pentax K, and Fuji X mounts (MSRP $ 599), while the Cine DS lens ($ 799 on B&H Photo) is available for Canon, Nikon, Sony E, and Micro Four Thirds mounts.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Choose Your Camera Angle to Take Better Portraits

18 Sep

Taking portraits involves so many variables that it can feel overwhelming for a new photographer. What lenses do you use—zoom, prime, or a mix of both? Do you shoot full-frame or cropped sensor? Will you shoot indoors or outdoors. Even the subject matter can be tricky, with some portrait photographers working exclusively with families, others who only shoot high school seniors or newborn babies, and still more who do a mix of everything.

all-about-angle-husband-wife-outdoors

Nikon D750, 85mm, f/4, ISO 900, 1/250 second

While you are pondering all these variables it can be easy to lose sight of the forest for the trees and forget about a few key basics such as posing and lighting, and no matter what style of portraits you choose to pursue there is one thing that always comes into play which may not seem obvious: the camera angle from which you shoot. This can make all the difference between happy clients and complaining customers. Understanding how you can use camera angles and points of view can greatly enhance any portrait session.

Point of view – up high or down low

Understanding how your camera angle, or point of view, can affect your shots will go a long way towards improving not just your portraits, but your photography in general. How you position yourself in relation to your subjects can have a dramatic effect on the resulting pictures. As an illustration of how this works, here are two pictures of a family from a recent home-based session I did. Both show a very similar scene, and yet the different angles from which I shot them results in two vastly different images.

all-about-angle-family-indoors-low

Nikon D750, 35mm, f/4, ISO 5600, 1/90 second

As I shot the image above I was very low to the ground. Crouching down on my hands and knees, I got very close physically to the family while the mother and father watched the boys play with their sister. It feels like the viewer is part of the scene, right there with them as they all share a fun moment together. This is entirely due to the low angle from which the picture was shot. Now take a look at virtually the exact same scene but shot from high above.

all-about-angle-family-indoors-high

Nikon D750, 35mm, f/4, ISO 3600, 1/90 second

To get this picture I grabbed a dining room chair and stood on it to get a shot from a much higher angle. The result is a picture that feels quite different from the first one. It doesn’t seem like you are a part of the scene, but an outside observer looking at the family as they gather together.

While I like both images, each one creates a very different emotional response on the part of the viewer. Even though both were shot with the same camera and lens, at the same location, with the same subjects, the result is two pictures that are vastly different from one another all because of the angle from which they were taken.

Even subtle changes make a difference

You can see a similar, but more subtle, effect in this pair of portraits I took of a young girl near her birthday.

Shot with a Nikon D750 and 85mm lens.

Nikon D750, 85mm, f/4, ISO 800, 1/500 second

The angle here isn’t as low as the first one of the family, but it’s low enough to be on the girl’s eye level. To get this I had to kneel down and stand a few meters back as her mother talked with her from my right-hand side. It gives a similar sense of intimacy as the first picture of the family and feels as though the viewer is near the girl and part of the scene.

This changes a bit when the girl is shot from an adult’s eye level looking down (below).

all-about-angle-child-playing-high

Nikon D750, 85mm, f/4, ISO 560, 1/250 second

While the effect here is not as dramatic as the example with the family, you will still note a similar result in terms of emotion and tone. Instead of getting down on eye level I shot this while standing up about the same distance away. It doesn’t feel like you, the viewer, are a part of the scene and instead it seems like you are merely an observer. Notice how the sidewalks in the background cut across the frame at odd angles whereas in the first one the sidewalks neatly cross in horizontal lines, adding a subtle touch without being too obvious or gaudy.

Once again I don’t think either picture is necessarily better or worse, but both are quite different as a result of the camera angle.

Kids – break the rules

This is, incidentally, one of the most common issues I see with people who are taking casual snapshots of their kids, whether with a fancy DSLR or just their mobile phone. Taking a few seconds to crouch down and get on eye level with the children can make all the difference in the world between an intimate moment frozen in time, and a boring snapshot.

However, I don’t want to give the mistaken impression that shooting from a high angle is necessarily a bad thing. It can be a very good thing indeed, and quite effective when used intentionally, such as this image of a girl with her two-week-old baby brother (below).

Shot with a Nikon D750 and 50mm lens.

Nikon D750, 50mm, f/4, ISO 400, 1/125 second

This picture was a bit tricky, but the results were well worth it. I was doing this on location in the family’s home so I didn’t have a lot to work with, but I wanted to get something a bit unique. I put the two kids on a blanket on the floor, got a chair to stand on, and positioned myself directly above them while bouncing my flash off the ceiling.

It resulted in an image that feels more fun and playful as if the viewer is peeking in on a fun moment between the two siblings. The equipment here was nothing all that special (I could have just as easily used my old D7100 and 35mm lens to get the same shot) but paying attention to the angle made for a picture that stood out quite a bit from the rest of the image I shot that day.

Other camera angles to consider

Sometimes finding the right angle involves something as simple as choosing where to put yourself in relation to your subject, not necessarily whether to shoot from high above or down low. You can see this in the example below. After an hour of taking a variety of traditional portrait-style

After an hour of taking a variety of traditional portrait-style shots, I stood back while the family walked back to their car and took some pictures with the sunset casting a warm glow through the trees above.

Shot with a Nikon D750 and 85mm lens.

Nikon D750, 85mm, f/4, ISO 180, 1/400 second

There are some elements that I could do without, such as the tree branches coming from the left-hand side. But overall the picture feels warm, cozy, and conveys a sense of comfortable intimacy as if I have captured the family in a quiet and sincere moment. It puts you, the viewer, as an outside observer to the scene and almost feels like you are watching from afar as the family shares a special time together.

This is in stark contrast to the next picture, which despite being at a different location is composed in almost exactly the same manner except for one variable: the angle.

Shot with a Nikon D7100 and 85mm lens.

Nikon D7100, 85mm, f/2.8, 1/250 second, ISO 100

This picture feels like it’s full of energy, excitement, and enthusiasm as the family holds hands and walks towards me. I like both pictures quite well, but changing the angle resulted in two images that are vastly different from one another.

Summary

Hopefully, these examples give you an idea of how your camera angle and point of view can dramatically affect the types of portraits you take. If you are looking to try something new and kick your photography up a notch without spending any money on more gear, try doing something as simple as changing your angle and see what happens.

In fact, this now makes me wonder about your favorite tips and tricks for shooting portraits at different angles. Leave your thoughts in the comments below, and feel free to share pictures as well!

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The post How to Choose Your Camera Angle to Take Better Portraits by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch

12 Sep

This may be something that you have already heard from landscape photographers. It is very important to be aware of the angle of the light (where does the light come from) to be able to get the best of a scene, and the best exposure for your image. Also, when using a polarizing filter, it is more effective when used at a 90 degrees angle to the sun for better blue sky results.

Angle of light – people photography

But when it comes to people photography I couldn’t find a lot mentioning the angle of light online. So here is what I think about it.

Keep the light behind you

When photographing people, it is also very important to be aware of the direction of the light. As I mention when teaching about composition, you should try, as much as possible, to keep the light behind you (or avoid facing the light). If the light remains behind you, the general exposure has more chance of being better, avoiding under and over exposed elements in the image.

JB 4997

Keeping the light behind you ensures a better general exposure through the whole image. Hoi An, Vietnam.

When facing the light, there are two options when it comes to people photography. You can either create a silhouette of your subjects while exposing for the brighter background. Or you can try to find a middle exposure, thus avoiding over exposing your background too much and keeping some details on the subject. This last method works very well in the early morning and late afternoon.

JB 8191
A silhouette created by directly facing the light. Isfahan, Iran.

The third option would be to expose for your subject and completely overexposing your background. I personally do not believe it looks that good though.

JB 6890

Finding a middle exposure between background and subject while facing the light works very well in the early morning and late afternoon. Kandovan, Iran.

Side light is magic

But when you put the light at a 90-degree angle, there is something magic that happens. When the light is softer and more colorful (at sunrise and sunset) it is possible to come up with some type of semi-silhouetted images. The part of your subject exposed to the light will be exposed correctly. The other part will be much darker (still preserving some details). That is going to create a more contrasty image, with a little more punch.

If you take an image which is slightly overexposed, there are no blacks in it and the histogram is slightly shifting to the right. As soon as the exposure goes down, some darker pixels will appear and add contrast to the image, making it instantly more powerful.

This is what a 90 degrees light will do to your subject: shadowing part of it and adding contrast and power to the image.

JB 4802

The light being on the right side, the back of this man is underexposed (in shadow), thus creating more contrast in the image. Hoi An, Vietnam.

For close-up portraits, the angle of the light has some superb effects on skin tones. Mostly when the tones are darker and more keen to reflect the light, this angle will enhance these tones. Because, as mentioned above, a part of your subject (the part which is not directly into the light) will be darker, the brighter parts will be enhanced.

Let’s compare

Here are two images of the same man, taken two minutes apart from each other. As you can see in the first one, the light is more even throughout the picture.

JB 2969

In this second image, there are some much darker areas on the left, adding contrast and punch to the image. The details on the skin tones are also much more interesting.

JB 4933

I hope that gives you some ideas for using the direction or angle of light to add punch to your people photography. Know where the light is coming from and make a conscious choice how to use it to your advantage.

Please share your people photos in the comments below.

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The post How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch by Etienne Bossot appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Wide Angle

13 Aug

Shooting with a wide angle can be challenging – to create an image that is engaging and has a good focal point. Check out these examples.

Magnus Wrenninge

By Magnus Wrenninge

Aotaro

By aotaro

Weekly Photography Challenge – Wide Angle

Here is some help for you if you need ideas:

  • Wide Angle Versus Telephoto Lenses for Beautiful Landscape Photography
  • How to Use a Wide-angle Lens with Wildlife for a New Perspective
  • How to Create Compelling Wide-Angle Portraits Using One Off-Camera Flash
  • 10 Tips for Photographing Wide-Angle Landscapes
  • How to Use a Wide-Angle Lens for People Photography
Lee

By lee

Mariusz Kluzniak

By mariusz kluzniak

Giuseppe Milo

By Giuseppe Milo

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

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15 Expansive Wide Angle Images

12 Aug

Wide angle lenses provide a very different view of the world than what your eye sees. They are inclusive, meaning the viewer feels like they are included in the image – like they could step into it.

These photographers have used the wide angle optics to great advantage – see if you enjoy them as much as I did:

Dave Wild

By Dave Wild

Stròlic Furlàn - Davide Gabino

By Stròlic Furlàn – Davide Gabino

Indigo Skies Photography

By Indigo Skies Photography

Meg

By meg

David Tomic

By David Tomic

Mark Iocchelli

By Mark Iocchelli

Giuseppe Milo

By Giuseppe Milo

Stròlic Furlàn - Davide Gabino

By Stròlic Furlàn – Davide Gabino

Pablo Fernández

By Pablo Fernández

Guillaume DELEBARRE (Guigui-Lille)

By Guillaume DELEBARRE (Guigui-Lille)

Paulo Valdivieso

By Paulo Valdivieso

Lenny K Photography

By Lenny K Photography

Fs999

By fs999

Fs999

By fs999

Emmanuel Huybrechts

By Emmanuel Huybrechts

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Lighting 102: Angle

03 Aug

The legibility from our fill light doesn't call attention to itself. It just makes your other light look that much better. It introduces a balance; a range; a relationship between the two lights.

Think of it like a backup band behind a soloist: the band is there to fill in the gaps, add background and make the soloist sound even better. Fill light is the music machine to your drunken karaoke key light.

So just like we did in Lighting 101, lets take a walk around the block and explore some lighting angles. For consistency, we are going to keep the same key light source for every photo on this page. So it is just about the lighting angles — i.e., no other variables.Read more »
Strobist

 
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Tokina AT-X 11-16 Pro DX II Review: Best Value from Wide Angle

29 Jun

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 is an ultra wide angle lens for crop sensor camera bodies (DX) with a moderately fast constant aperture of f2.8. It is Tokina’s top of the line lens (AT-X) with an internal focusing (IF) and Super-low Dispersion glass (SD). It is available in Canon, Nikon and Sony A mounts. Due to its focal length and fast aperture, Continue Reading

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The Secret to Finding the Hero Angle in Food Photography

27 Jun

Have you ever stared at a photo of a food dish, and instantly thought that something looked a little odd? Like the shot wasn’t quite bang on, but you can’t quite put your finger on what it is? Chances are the dish hasn’t been shot using its hero angle.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 12

You can have the freshest ingredients, the maddest styling skills, and be able to tame ever changing natural light, but if your angle isn’t complimentary to the food you’re shooting – you’re missing out on the full potential of creating a powerful food image.

Never fear though, the secret to finding the hero angle in food photography is simple. Just approach the shoot with two things in mind; the height of the dish and/or the props, and the layers contained in them.

The Height of Your Dish and Props

The height of food basically falls into two categories; tall or flat.

Tall subjects are simply anything with height – like a bundt cake, an ice cream cone, or a burger with the lot. For tall subject you will usually default to shooting somewhere between a 45 degree angle to straight on. Going beyond 45 degrees can sometimes limit being able to see the full dish and layering.

Flat subjects are simply anything whose width is inherently larger than its height – like a tart, a cookie, or a pancake. For these types of subjects, default to shooting somewhere between straight above and a 75 degree angle. Going too close to 45 degrees will also accentuate their flat qualities.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 8 Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 5

But what about everything else? What about soup, salad, or how about liquids? I am so glad you asked, because this is where the fun starts.

There are quite a few foods that are dependant on serve-ware. A burger or cake can hold their own, but liquids, soups, salads, and puddings cannot. Which category these guys fall into is dependent on the food styling prop in which they are presented.

Take soup for instance, is it being served in a bowl, or is it a fancy cold soup served in a tall shot glass? The salad, is it served on a plate or a large glass bowl? What sort of holder is the liquid in; tall, short, opaque? Is it in a flat tray because you’re about to freeze it and turn into granita?

Oh the possibilities are endless! But remember, they all fall into two categories, so you’ve got a 50/50 shot of getting it right. I’m pretty sure you’ve got this.

The Layers in Your Dish and on Set

There are two things to consider when thinking about layers in food photography. The layers present in your food dish and the layers present on set.

Layers in a dish are the number of visual components in a recipe. The classic example is a burger with seven layers, bun, meat patty, cheese, sauce, slice of tomato, lettuce, bun. Or a layer cake with seven layers, cake, jam, cream, cake, jam, cream, cake. So to get the best food photography shots, you’ll want to choose an angle that exposes these layers in their best light.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 6 Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 7

Layers on set are the number of elements or props that you have on your set (props) on top of one another. For example, napkin, plate, and garnish would be three layers and would appear on top of one another. I don’t count the food/recipe as a layer as it is the subject and will always be present. If the prop layers are an important part of telling the food story, you’ll want to make sure your angle captures those elements too.

Putting it all Together

Now that you’ve thought about the height of your dish and the layers, you can marry those two, in order to figure out your hero angle. Let’s look at some examples.

This is a little game I like to play called; Okay, Better, Hero. There is nothing wrong with any of these shots I’m about to show you per say, but there can only be one hero, right? That’s what we’re aiming for, so let’s dive right in.

Turkish Delight (a flat dish without layers)

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 1

I shot this Turkish delight with a 105mm micro (macro) lens, at a 25 degree angle, overhead, and 75 degree angle respectively.

Because this is such a flat dish, you may expect that the overhead angle would be the most flattering. But really the 75 degree shot is hero angle, here is why. It is so close to overhead, yet allows you to capture the gorgeous light coming through the Turkish delight which adds to the richness of its colour.

25 degrees also captures the colours, but accentuates the flatness of the dish, and detracts from the overall feel.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 11
Horizontal variation, shot at the same angle.

The Burger (tall dish with layers)

I shot this burger with a 105mm micro (macro) lens, at a 45 degree angle, 25 degree angle, and straight on respectively.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 4

The hero angle is the one shot straight on, because it allows the viewer to focus on all the delicious layers, and elongates the height of the burger which you naturally expect to be a tall food. Your mind thinks, the taller the burger, the more ingredients, and the more bang for your buck you get.

The 45 degree angle doesn’t give you enough context of the layers, and the 25 degree angle makes the top burger bun look too flat.

Kale Pesto (tall dish without layers)

I shot this with a 60mm micro (macro) lens, at a 85 degree angle, 45 degree angle, and straight on.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 3

Pesto, being a sauce or condiment, is dependant on the serve-ware in which it is presented. As you want to show that there is enough of the pesto to coat an entire family size dish of pasta, it was shot in a tall glass. This also complimented the tall spoon, and bottle of oil in the shot as props.

The 45 degree angle is workable, but straight on one is the hero angle here. It allows for an overall sense of how the dish is being served and stored, while still allowing the viewer to comprehend its texture.

If you want to get into the nitty gritty, the 45 degree angle allows for reflection of the plate to show up in the glass, hindering the ability to see the texture of the pesto.

Egg and Bacon Muffins (flat with layers)

I shot this with a 60mm lens, at a 45 degree angle, 30 degree angle, and from directly overhead.

Rachel Korinek Food Photographer DPS Hero Angle 2

Here the 45 degree angle accentuates the flatness of the dish, but does show the layers. The 30 degree angle is better, but it doesn’t show the full layers of the dish as much as the overhead shot does. That’s why the overhead shot is the hero angle in this case. It allows you to see right into the dish, while still getting the action of the egg filling being poured into each compartment.

Putting Finding That Hero Angle Into Practice – 5 Take Aways

Next time you’re doing a food photography shoot, put the following into practice:

  1. Thinking about whether your dish falls into the tall or flat category.
  2. Are there layers in your dish, or through your use of props on set?
  3. For tall foods, especially those with layers, explore angles between straight on and 45 degrees.
  4. For flat foods, explore angles between overhead and 75 degrees.
  5. Take a few shots with different angles outside the recommended ones above, and look for the OK, better, hero shots.

Do you have a favourite angle for food photography that you can always rely on? Please share in the comments below, as well as your food shots.

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