RSS
 

Archive for November, 2020

DPReview TV: Battle of the 70-200mm F2.8 zooms (Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic)

14 Nov

Who makes the best 70-200mm F2.8 zoom lens for full-frame? We tested the latest models to find out: the Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8L IS USM, Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm F2.8 VR S, Sony FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS and the Panasonic Lumix S Pro 70-200 F2.8 O.I.S.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

  • Introduction
  • The competitors
  • Size and weight
  • Livin' La Bokeh LoCA
  • Autofocus
  • Sharpness
  • Video performance
  • Final rankings

Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8 sample gallery

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_8685700048″,”galleryId”:”8685700048″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Nikon Z 70-200mm F2.8 sample gallery

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_5156689056″,”galleryId”:”5156689056″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Sony FE 70-200mm F2.8 sample gallery

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_1304509160″,”galleryId”:”1304509160″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Panasonic S Pro 70-200mm F2.8 sample gallery

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_0696132436″,”galleryId”:”0696132436″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });
Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on DPReview TV: Battle of the 70-200mm F2.8 zooms (Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic)

Posted in Uncategorized

 

10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots

14 Nov

The post 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.

Creating beautiful headshots can seem like a daunting prospect. To have one person in front of your camera, looking to you for direction and positivity, can be tough. Plus, people are generally very critical of themselves when in front of the camera and can feel very nervous.

However, there are some simple things that you can do to make headshots a lot easier for everyone.

Headshot on Black Background

So here are 10 tips to help you photograph headshots:

1. Have a pre-session consultation

Before your session, make sure you know how the images will be used and what style your subject would like. You can have this “pre-session consultation” on the phone or face-to-face. Talking to your subject will help them relax so much more than an email, and a consultation will allow you to help them prepare for the session.

Make sure they know what to expect and are as relaxed as possible.

Headshot on White Background

Find out what profession your subject is involved in; a corporate lawyer may opt for a clean white background look (above), while a more relaxed style of business (e.g., a yoga instructor) may prefer a more colorful, environmental image (below). Find out in the consultation what they want so you are prepared on the day.

Indoor Headshot

2. Help your subject choose the right clothes

Generally speaking, solid, neutral colors work best for headshots, as you want to avoid anything that distracts from people’s faces.

If you’re looking to achieve a formal style, make sure that everyone gets the message and remembers to bring formal work clothes with them. Men often forget their jackets, so for a consistent look, try to have a spare one on hand, even if you need to clip it at the back.

If you know you’ll have lots of time with a person, get them to bring a few items of clothing. Remind them to iron their clothes, as well.

Here are some examples of good clothing choices:

What to wear for headshots
What to wear for headshots
What to wear for headshots

3. Create separation from the background

For great headshots, make sure your subject doesn’t stand too close to the background.

If you are using a studio background (or the wall in an office) and you position someone close to it, you may see shadows on the wall, which makes the images look less professional.

For environmental headshots outdoors, I still recommend separation from the background. The resulting bokeh will create a nice, nondescript background, especially when you shoot at a wide aperture. Typically, I aim for an aperture of f/4 for environmental and natural light sessions, and f/8 for studio-style sessions with lights.

4. Starting the session

Whether you are photographing headshots for a single person or a whole team, make sure you have a general chat with each person first to help them relax.

This can be just a 10-second, confident handshake and a “How are you?” People generally feel very nervous about having their photograph taken, and talking about something within their comfort zone (where they live, if they have children or pets, etc.) will really help them to become (and to appear!) more comfortable.

5. Silly faces!

A great way of helping people relax in front of the camera – especially if you don’t have much time with them – is to ask them to pull a funny face for the first frame.

Use this as a lighting test for a new person, as well. It’s a great way to break the ice, and very few people will refuse to do it. Once your subject has pulled a silly face, everything else is easy!

person making a funny face
Headshot Photography example

6. Lighting and positioning

For business and actors’ headshots, I tend to light quite evenly. There are a few circumstances where the images are low-key, but for the most part, they are evenly lit. A classic beauty lighting setup works well, with one light above and a second light, or a reflector, supplying fill light from below.

Ensure the subject is turned with their body 45 degrees away from the camera and toward the main light source (if your lighting allows for this). Their face should be pointed straight toward the camera. You may need to guide people to look straight down the lens. It’s surprising how many people look off-camera, at the flash, or somewhere random.

Headshot setup
Posing example

7. Sit people down

People may be more comfortable sitting down, and by asking them to rest their hands on the tops of their thighs, it gives them something to do with their hands. It also ensures that the subjects all know where they need to be, and that they don’t move around too much.

8. It’s all about the little adjustments

What separates a great headshot from an average one is generally very small changes. These little adjustments can make all the difference. The slight tilt to the head, leaning forward, a gentle but intriguing smile. Don’t be afraid to ask someone to make very specific changes to their expression and position until you get the image you’re looking for.

Headshot Photography

9. Keep talking and be positive

When you’re in the midst of taking photographs, make sure that you keep talking to your subject. Reassure them that they’re doing it right and you’re getting great images.

Even if you’re not satisfied with the images you get when your subject turns their head in a certain direction or when the light falls in a bad way, never express those feelings. Silence will kill the atmosphere, so no matter what is happening, just keep chatting and being positive.

10. Shoot tethered

If you have all the necessary equipment, shooting tethered is a fantastic way to get great headshots. When people see a couple of shots on the screen, they can very quickly get an idea of what needs to be changed. The immediate feedback from the screen will help everyone massively.

Photographing great headshots: conclusion

I hope you find these tips for better headshots helpful.

Do you have any other tips we missed? Please share them – and your favorite headshot photos – in the comments below!

On Pinterest? Here’s an image to pin.

10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots

The post 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots

Posted in Photography

 

Adobe apps not officially supported on Apple’s M1 chips using Rosetta 2, but native versions are coming

14 Nov

Earlier this week, Apple announced the first trio of Mac computers built using Apple’s own silicon. The new MacBook Air, 13″ MacBook Pro and Mac mini devices all use Apple’s new M1 chip. During the event, Apple announced that Adobe, among many other developers, is working on releasing new versions of its software that are compatible with the M1 chip.

As it turns out, these new M1-compatible versions will be critical for Adobe Lightroom users on the new Apple silicon Macs. On a dedicated page about Lightroom Classic compatibility with the upcoming macOS 11 operating system, Adobe warns that ‘Adobe apps run under Rosetta 2 emulation on Apple devices with Apple Silicon M1 processors is not officially supported.’ The company continues, ‘Native support is planned.’

Click to enlarge

Early adopters of the M1-powered Apple computers will have to do without official support for now. It is worth noting that at this point, Adobe hasn’t discovered any issues with running Lightroom Classic 10 under Rosetta 2 emulation, but as it is not officially supported, the user does assume non-zero risk. The MacBook Air, MacBook Pro and Mac mini computers powered by the M1 chip are all available for order now ahead of a November 17 release.

In Apple’s presentation, embedded below, Senior Vice President, Craig Federighi, said Adobe is bringing Lightroom CC to its M1 computers in December and following it up with Photoshop in early 2021 (around the 18:10 timestamp).

While Photoshop and Lightroom are the primary apps for photographers in the Adobe ecosystem, the company has many other heavily-used apps, such as Premiere, Dreamweaver, Illustrator, and much more. As of writing, Adobe has not offered a timeline for other Adobe apps built for the M1 chip.

In case you missed Apple’s event on Tuesday, you can watch a replay of the stream below:

The Apple M1 chip promises massive performance gains over prior Intel chips. In the case of the M1-powered MacBook Air, Apple promises up to 3.5 times faster CPU performance and up to 5 times faster graphics. The MacBook Air also ditches a fan, offering a ‘silent design.’ The 13″ MacBook Pro maintains an active cooling system, offers up to 2.8 times faster CPU performance and up to 5 times faster GPU performance. With the M1 chip, the new Mac mini also sees massive gains. Its CPU is up to 3 times faster and the GPU is 6 times faster. The new computers start at $ 999 USD, $ 1,300 and $ 699 respectively. For the full details on the new machines, check out coverage from earlier this week.

Adobe has been hard at work developing native versions of its applications, including Photoshop shown here during the Apple presentation on November 10. In the presentation, seen further above, Adobe states that it has observed massive performance gains on Apple silicon.

The move to Apple silicon is a major one for Apple. The promised performance gains are hugely impressive on paper, and the foundation being built appears to be a strong one. Of course, software must be designed to take full advantage of the new silicon. Adobe certainly has the talent and resources to do so.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Adobe apps not officially supported on Apple’s M1 chips using Rosetta 2, but native versions are coming

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Apple’s new ProRAW image format will capture 12-bit Raw DNG files

14 Nov

Apple has released the iOS 14.3 developer beta which, amongst other improvements, includes the new ProRAW photo feature Apple showed off at its virtual iPhone event last month.

Until now, not much was known about the ProRAW workflow and what type of file the latest iPhone 12 Pro devices would output. We now know, thanks to the iOS 14.3 developer beta, that a ProRaw file will be a 12-bit Raw image captured as a linear digital negative (Linear DNG) file. The file will offer up to 14 stops of dynamic range, according to a report from PetaPixel, and offers the usual post-production adjustments we’ve come to expect from Raw files: white balance adjustment, better exposure refinement and more.

Turning on ProRAW in iOS on the new iPhone 12 Pro devices is done by toggling it on in the Settings app. As with HDR and Live Photos, images captured as a ProRAW file will have a ‘RAW’ badge displayed alongside it to distinguish it from other images. It’s worth noting though that the image shown in the Photos app is simply a JPEG conversion of the Raw photo, akin to how Raw photos you view on your camera’s displays is actually a JPEG preview. You will only see the Raw image when it’s imported into a compatible post-production app for editing.

Speaking of editing, the DNG file should be compatible with any app that accepts DNG files, but it might take some time for all apps to integrate specific profiles for getting the most from the ProRAW format. The DNG files stored to the iOS Camera Roll can either be edited directly on your mobile device and exported as a JPEG from there or be saved and exported to your computer for editing in apps like Lightroom, Affinity Photo, Capture One and others.

Co-founder and designer for pro camera app Halide, Sebastiaan de With, points out that ProRAW works on the wide, telephoto and ultrawide camera modules and is also compatible with Night Mode shots (no luck with Portrait mode shots or Live Photos). He’s also discovered ProRAW images come in at roughly 24–28MB, which is quite large considering that’s the size of most DSLR and mirrorless Raw files.

No API is available at this time for ProRAW capture, so even if it does become available in the future, it might take some time to see ProRAW capture enabled in third-party apps.

Apple’s new ProRAW format is limited to its new iPhone 12 Pro and iPhone 12 Pro Max devices, so unless you’re planning on upgrading to the new flagship iOS devices, you won’t be seeing this new capture mode. For those of you who already have a compatible iPhone, there’s no information on when iOS 14.3 will be publicly available, so you’ll still need a little more patience.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Apple’s new ProRAW image format will capture 12-bit Raw DNG files

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Coffee

14 Nov

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Coffee appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Right then! This is a little self-indulgent, but, I like to photograph my coffee (not even kidding!) and I thought it might be fun to see how others around the world take their coffee, so let’s try it – #dPSCoffee is the theme! You have to make a new photograph, none of that plucking one from the archives – head out and grab a coffee, trek to the kitchen, whatever you prefer! Will you light it, place it in the morning sun? What will it be!

Weekly Photography Challenge – Coffee
Morning shadows & coffee

Photography & Coffee seem to go together pretty well, so I’m looking forward to seeing what you come up with this week!

Weekly Photography Challenge – Coffee
An espresso in the morning sun.

Great! Where do I upload my photos?

Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on FlickrInstagramTwitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSCoffee to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Follow us on Instagram?

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Coffee appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Weekly Photography Challenge – Coffee

Posted in Photography

 

This DIY camera uses machine learning to tell you what it sees

14 Nov

A camera that knows what it’s looking at would have seemed like a farfetched pipe dream not long ago. These days, however, you can even build such a camera in the comfort of your own home. Adafruit has shared a project that allows you to build a camera around Adafruit’s own BrainCraft HAT system, which is itself an AI Machine Learning addition to the Raspberry Pi 4. Plus, it even tells you what it sees.

As DIY Photography observes, the Raspberry Pi Machine Learning camera uses TensorFlow Lite object recognition software to figure out what it is looking at. The project works with either the 8MP Pi Camera Module or the 12.3MP module that includes interchangeable lens support. The enclosure is 3D printed.

So what is a camera that can determine what it’s seeing be used for? As John Aldred points out at DIY Photography, ‘…it opens up a lot of options for connecting the Pi to a ‘real camera’ for shooting photos or video. You could connect a DSLR or mirrorless camera from its trigger port into the Pi’s GPIO pins, or even use a USB connection with something like gPhoto, to have it shoot a photo or start recording a video when it detects a specific thing enter the frame.’

Imagine a scenario in which you want to remotely photograph a specific animal. Perhaps you don’t want to have a camera constantly capturing images or shooting whenever it detects motion, but instead want something more precise and fine-tuned. Maybe a sports photograph could utilize object recognition to capture a specific moment during a game with one camera while manually shooting with another. Aldred also notes that you could potentially have the object recognition software place object keywords into image metadata, which could make organizing large batches of images a much more streamlined process.

Image credit: Adafruit

The technology is still developing, and machine learning takes time, but there’s a lot of interesting potential here and talented, creative individuals often find ways to push new gear and tech to the limits. At the very least, it seems like a fun project. If you’d like to learn more and view the complete parts list, click here. In total, you’ll need the Adafruit BrainCraft HAT (around $ 40), Raspberry Pi 4 ($ 35), a camera ($ 30 and up) a 3D printed case, and a few more odds and ends. Click the following links for helpful user guides: ‘Easy Machine Learning for Raspberry Pi’ and ‘Running TensorFlow Lite on Raspberry Pi 4’.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on This DIY camera uses machine learning to tell you what it sees

Posted in Uncategorized

 

$20 film camera challenge: Minolta Riva Zoom 90EX – Dan Bracaglia

13 Nov

Intro – the challenge

Our ‘$ 20 film camera challenge’ is partly an acknowledgment that the universe is well-stocked with affordable analog cameras, and you don’t necessarily need to spend an arm and a leg on something trendy to get great shots. But it’s also a fun excuse to reassess the cool and often quirky camera designs of the not-too-distant past.

The rules are simple: Find a film camera for under $ 20, shoot a roll or two with it, and describe the experience. Film and developing costs do not count toward the $ 20, otherwise you’d have no money left to spend. But shipping and/or tax do count.

In our very first challenge, DPR writer Aaron Gold ended up falling in love with the surprisingly feature-rich Minolta Maxxum 5. In the second edition, DPR editor Dan Bracaglia pulls the trigger on another Minolta camera…

Read the first installment of the $ 20 film camera challenge here

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_6631296540″,”galleryId”:”6631296540″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });


Dan Bracaglia and the Minolta Riva Zoom 90EX

The hunt

I’ve been considering purchasing an inexpensive 35mm pocket zoom camera for some time now – something I can toss in my bike frame bag and bring along on adventures. As a kid, I remember shooting with our family’s Olympus Stylus Zoom and recall enjoying the experience and the photographs immensely. And so I figured the $ 20 film camera challenge was the perfect excuse to take to eBay and do a little shopping.

I also picked up an Olympus Stylus Zoom 105, as a sort of consolation if the Minolta didn’t work

The camera industry pumped out a ton of these autofocus-enabled ‘compact’ zoom cameras during the 1990’s. And I had no shortage of well-priced options from every major manufacturer. I’d never shot with a Minolta compact camera before, only an SLR, but a recent, glowing article about the Minolta Riva 110 over on 35mmc.com had me intrigued.

Priced at $ 15, the Minolta Riva 90EX (aka Minolta Freedom 9T) was my camera of choice.

I couldn’t find a Riva 110 for under $ 20, despite a strong desire for as much zoom as possible, but did I track down the a slightly-older Minolta Riva Zoom 90EX, priced to fit the rules of the challenge. Note: The North American version (which I picked up) is called the ‘Freedom Zoom 9T,’ which doesn’t sound as cool, so we’re going with Riva 90EX.

It had originally been listed at $ 20, but was subsequently lowered to $ 15 with free shipping. The seller noted it was in mint condition, minus a cracked hinge on the film door, which they were confident was a non-issue. I figured ‘what the heck’ and bought it for the asking price. Grand total: $ 16.52.

Full disclosure: I also picked up an Olympus Stylus Zoom 105, as a sort of consolation if the Minolta didn’t work. That one I splurged on and spent $ 49.10 with tax and shipping.

The ‘pick’

The Riva 90EX has a nice selection of features including a double exposure mode, landscape mode and even a continuous drive mode.

The Riva 90EX debuted in the early 90’s at a time when the ‘compact’ AF zoom camera market was blowing up and brands were churning out new models, with each generation offering more and more reach.

A mostly automatic camera, the Riva 90EX is built around a 35-90mm F3.5-5.7 lens and includes a nice selection of modes and features, some more useful than others. For instance, ‘Landscape mode’ locks focus at infinity and disengages the flash, something I found useful when shooting street photos on a sunny day toward the tele-end of the focal length. There’s also also a double exposure mode and even a continuous drive mode which, from my testing (without film), shoots at a zippy 1 fps.

In use

You ain’t a beauty but hey, you’re alright.

Upon unboxing my new/old Minolta Riva Freedom 90EX, I popped the film door to see how weak the cracked hinge really was: it fell off in my hands, with only the date cable keeping it attached.

“The first time the date imprint function was ever actually useful,” I thought as I grabbed some gaffers tape.

After loading in a battery I checked to make sure the flash, zoom and shutter worked, and all seemed to be functioning as intended. I then went to set the date on the back because why the heck not? It’s there. Much to my dismay, the year only goes until 2019, something that is actually mentioned in the instructions. Was Minolta foreshadowing a lack of faith and/or the ultimate demise of their camera business all the way back in the early 90s?

Upon unboxing the Minolta Riva Freedom 90EX, I popped the film door to see how weak the cracked hinge really was: it fell off in my hands

In-hand, the Riva 90EX feels large and plasticky, in fact I’d go as far as to say it’s much larger in life than the product photos suggest. But the 1990’s bloat also means there’s lots to hold on to and it’s quite comfortable to grip. The shutter button is nice and clicky, but the zoom toggle has almost no tactile response, which I found odd. The top of the camera offers a nice big (for the era) LCD with setting info. Annoyingly, some settings are saved when the camera is turned off, others are not.

‘Landscape mode’ conveniently sets focus at infinity and disables the flash. Annoyingly though the camera doesn’t save the mode selection when you turn it off and back on again.

I really enjoyed carrying this camera around. Its lightweight design made it easy to sling over a shoulder and its fat grip made it unlikely to slip from hand, though the bloated size meant it just barely fit in my bike frame bag.

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by its functionality in most shooting scenarios. The little bit of control over the flash, i.e. the ability to turn it off (which can be done independently of ‘Landscape mode’) is much appreciated. And though I didn’t try to shoot any double exposures, it’s certainly a feature I might enjoy messing around with when the moment strikes.

Was Minolta foreshadowing a lack of faith and/or the ultimate demise of their camera business all the way back in the 90s?

The camera offers one central AF point, so focus-and-recompose is the name of the game. I found AF acquisition speed to actually be quite good, given the era. In operation it unsurprisingly sounds like an early 90’s camera, which is to say, it’s noisy. If you’ve ever sharpened a Ticonderoga (pencil) in an electric pencil sharpener, that’s what this camera sounds like when the film is advancing. The zoom action is also audible, though the zoom speed is pretty quick.

There’s really not much else to say about the Riva 90EX; it’s a $ 16 chunk-monster of a camera with just enough controls and some pleasant features to make me happy. And one I enjoyed bringing along on adventures, thanks to its functionality and low cost of replacement, should chaos ensue (I drop it). But how are the photos?

The photos

About a quarter of my images have a pronounced circular flare, a possible sign that optical coatings somewhere in the lens may have degraded.

The Riva 90EX is certainly capable of solid image quality, but my copy has one obvious and unfortunate issue/defect: substantial circular flaring when shooting at the wide end of the focal range. I shot a grand total of 50 images and roughly 1 in 4 shots have this issue. Sure, it looks cool and artsy for some of the more abstract images, but it’s just flat-out annoying in others.

At first I thought the flaring was a result of the flash, but it also appears in images shot in bright sunlight where the flash was disabled. Could a lens hood fix this? Possibly, but it also may just be the result of lens coating degradation. That’s the bad, now for the good:

At the wide end I’d call the lens satisfyingly sharp and at the tele, acceptably sharp; not bad for $ 16

I was pleasantly surprised with the rest of the images, though Kodak Gold 400 seems a bit greener than I remember (I mostly corrected this in Lightroom). The autofocus system proved fairly reliable; very few of my shots had missed focused. The metering also seemed pretty good, especially given some of the more dynamically complex scenes I shot. At the wide end I’d call the lens satisfyingly sharp and at the tele, acceptably sharp; not bad for $ 16.

The takeaway

I really like the versatility of the camera’s 38-90mm focal range, especially for street shooting. I also appreciate the camera’s design, handling and features. But persistent flaring when shooting the wide end of the focal length is a deal-breaker.

Ultimately, I suspected I would love this style of camera, especially the versatility of the focal range, and my time with the Riva 90EX confirmed my suspicions. I’ve long been both a fan of both digital pocket zooms as well as compact 35mm cameras (but with fixed focal lengths), and this feels like a natural category of camera to now explore.

Plus, the sheer number of 90’s pocket zooms available for cheap means you too can explore it, without breaking the bank. Of course, the next model I’ll be trying is my new Olympus Stylus Zoom 105. Here’s hoping for flare-free shooting!

The lens on the Riva 90EX is satisfyingly sharp at the wide end.

Who’s going to take the $ 20 film camera challenge next?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on $20 film camera challenge: Minolta Riva Zoom 90EX – Dan Bracaglia

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Insta360 One R Review: An Action Camera With a Twist

13 Nov

The post Insta360 One R Review: An Action Camera With a Twist appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

The Insta360 One R debuted in February 2020 and was touted as an all-in-one modular action camera that can transform from a 4K wide-angle camera into a 360 camera – or even into a one-inch camera with an ultra-wide Leica lens.

Insta360 One R review with mods
From left to right: The Insta360 Core Module attached to the 4K Mod, the 360 Mod, and the One-Inch Leica Mod.

The Insta360 One R is supposed to be the ultimate action camera alternative to GoPro models and the DJI Osmo Action. But how does this camera hold up in practice, and does it deliver on its promise of being the ultimate all-in-one action camera?

Read this Insta360 One R review to find out!

Recent firmware updates

When the Insta360 One R first came out, some initial reviewers reported technical problems with the camera, such as bugs and low external microphone sound quality. Fortunately, Insta360 responded very quickly to these problems by issuing several firmware updates. A recent firmware update (version 1.2.13) came out in September 2020 and fixed many of these issues.

So if you read a previous negative review of the Insta360 One R, it’s worth revisiting the camera, since improvements have been made over the past few months.

How the Insta360 One R works

Unlike other action cameras, the Insta360 One R is made of 3 pieces: the Core Module with a touchscreen live view display, the camera module, and an 1190 mAh lithium-ion battery base that holds the two Mods together.

The Camera Module can be swapped out for one of three different options: the 5.7K 360 Mod (7.2mm focal length, f/2.0), a 4K wide-angle Mod (16.4mm focal length, f/2.8), or a One-Inch Mod (14.4mm focal length, f/3.2). The touchscreen block can also be attached to the screen facing forward or backward, which is useful for vlogging situations.

The camera’s battery base can be charged via a USB-C cable. It takes roughly 65 minutes to charge fully. You can also get an optional double battery base hub for faster charging. Battery life is rated at about 70 minutes while shooting at 4K/60p. There’s a single micro-USB card slot, and the camera accepts memory cards up to 256 GB.

Which Mods should you get?

There are several different ways to purchase the Insta360 One R.

The Insta360 One R Twin Edition is the most popular option, as it comes with both the 5.7K 360 Mod and the 4K wide-angle Mod. If you want to add the One-Inch Mod, you can purchase it separately to add to your Twin Edition set.

Alternatively, you can buy the Insta360 One R 1-inch edition if you don’t want the extra two Mods. In practice, I found the 360 Mod and the One-Inch Mod to be the most used of the three.

Photo and video capabilities

Like most action cameras on the market, the Insta360 One R can shoot both videos and photos (JPEG and DNG format). The recent September firmware update introduced PureShot, a new AI-powered shooting mode for creating HDR-like photos when editing images via the Insta360 smartphone app.

But while the photo modes on the Insta360 One R are good, the camera excels at video.

Insta360 One R review
Image taken with the Insta360 One R and the 4K Mod before Pure Shot was added.
Insta360 One R sample image
Image taken with the Insta360 One R and the 4K mod after Pure Shot was added.

Note that image quality and resolution depend on which Mod you use. The 4K wide-angle Mod is equivalent to 16.4mm at f/2.8. It produces 12-megapixel photos, as well as videos at up to 4K/60p, plus high-definition slow motion at 1080p and 200fps.

The Dual-Lens 360 Mod is equivalent to 7.2mm at f/2.0. It produces 18.4-megapixel photos, as well as videos at up to 5.7K/30p, though it can also shoot 100fps at 3K.

The One-Inch Leica Mod uses a 14.4mm equivalent wide-angle lens. It can shoot at up to 5K/30p, as well as 4K/60p.

Insta360 One R sample photo
Taken with the Insta360 One R using the Leica One-Inch Mod.

Compact size, but…

Despite there being many pieces to this camera, it is very compact when it is assembled. The size and weight of the Insta360 One R is comparable to your average action camera.

However, there are a couple of drawbacks to the modular nature of this camera.

First, it takes time to take the camera apart if you ever need to swap out the lens or rearrange the position of the touchscreen.

Second, although there is a nice rubber protective sleeve for the 360 Mod, no carrying case for the camera Mods is included, so you’ll have to come up with your own solution.

Action-ready

Since the Insta360 One R is an action camera, it is waterproof up to five meters and can withstand most rugged conditions, though you’ll want to make sure that your Mods are tightly snapped together and assembled in the included mounting bracket before throwing it in the water.

For those wanting to dive even deeper, there’s an optional Dive Case that lets you submerge the camera at up to 60 meters.

Speaking of the bracket:

You’ll have to use it if you want to add a GoPro-like connection point for sticking the camera on a handle or tripod. No tripod or GoPro mount is built into the camera itself.

Insta360 One R sample photo
Sample image taken with the Insta360 One R and the 4K Mod.

Usability

The Insta360 One R can be controlled via the Core Mod’s touchscreen display, or by connecting to the Insta360 smartphone app via Bluetooth. I found the touchscreen display to be the fastest and easiest way to control the camera.

Touchscreen responsiveness is excellent, but the menu differs from that of other action cameras and is not the most intuitive. That said, it’s easy to use once you learn where all of the features are.

Digital lenses for “zooming”

One of the best features of the Insta360 One R is the ability to use built-in digital lenses. You can choose from ultra-wide, wide, linear, and a narrow field of view when shooting both photos and videos. This adds some flexibility to the otherwise fixed lens on the Camera Mod.

Ability to add an external mic

The internal microphones on the Insta360 One R are okay, but there is a lot of noise when you are moving with the camera. If you plan to vlog with this camera and/or want the very best sound, using an external microphone is your best option.

Like other action cameras on the market, the Insta360 One R does not have a built-in mic jack, but you can add one by purchasing a mic jack adapter. This tiny adapter does not add much bulk or weight to the camera, though it can be easy to misplace. Using an adapter lets you add an external microphone such as a shotgun mic or a wireless mic to enhance sound.

When using an external mic, there’s a handy icon that appears on the camera’s display to verify that the mic is connected. Early reviews reported that external mic levels were too low, but that problem has been corrected as of the September 2020 firmware update.

Insta360 One R review
The Insta360 One R with the optional 3.5mm mic adapter and Joby Wavo Mobile microphone.

Image quality and color

Considering that this is a first-generation camera, the image quality for both videos and photos is impressive.

However, as mentioned previously, the Insta360 One R is a video camera first, and that’s where its strengths are concentrated. You can shoot in a flat video mode and apply your own LUT or color grading in post-production. Or you can choose from a color profile built into the camera. New in the recent firmware update is a Vivid color profile, as well as AquaVision, which uses AI to color-correct video shot underwater.

Related to video quality, the Insta360 One R now records video as a .MP4 file as a default. This makes it easier to edit the videos in your video editing software of choice. Prior to the September firmware update, the camera only recorded in a proprietary .INSV video file, which could only be read by the Insta360 Studio app.

Video stabilization

The Insta360 One R provides silky-smooth video footage via FlowState Stabilization, meaning you don’t need to use a gimbal with this camera.

Just note that the stabilization is added in post-production. This means that you must import the video footage into the Insta360 Studio app to enable stabilization, and then export it into your video editing software of choice. This extra step can be a workflow hurdle if you prefer using a single application to edit your videos.

On the plus side, Insta360 has released updates that allow you to add stabilization via Adobe Premiere or Final Cut X. In my experience with Final Cut X, this integration is laggy and not quite usable, but that will likely be fixed in a future firmware update.

Insta360 One R
Sample photo taken with the Insta360 One R and the 360 Mod.

Use it as a webcam

Also new as of the September firmware update:

The Insta360 One R can be used as a webcam when connected to a Mac or PC. In this work-from-home age of Zoom calls and FaceTime, this is a pretty cool feature, especially since the webcam can be used with the 360 Mod to show a split-screen effect of your surroundings.

When using the 4K wide-angle Mod, the webcam also has an automatic face-tracking effect that can follow you as you move around a room. These features are best demonstrated in video format, but they add an extra layer of fun to otherwise monotonous webcam experiences.

Zero bugs

During my month of vigorously using the Insta360 One R, I was pleased to experience no bugs or glitches when using the camera. It was very responsive and did exactly what I asked it to with no delays or problems. While I might’ve just gotten lucky, this was a welcome seamless experience, given the bugs that tend to be present in other action cameras (e.g., GoPro).

High quality and affordable optional hardware

In addition to the camera Mods, there are lots of useful Insta360 One R accessories that may be worth buying, depending on how you plan to use the camera. The fast-charging hub or boosted battery is a good add-on to ensure that you have enough power for a full day of shooting. Also, the Invisible Selfie Stick is handy, not only for shooting 360 videos, but also for regular use as a handgrip or selfie stick.

There are also dive cases for the 4K Mod and the 360 Mod to dive even deeper (up to 60 meters), rugged lens protectors for the 360 Mod lenses, and an aerial Mod to add the Insta360 One R to a drone.

Insta360 One R review
The Insta360 One R with the Invisible Selfie Stick and Bullet Time tripod.

A few drawbacks

Like any other camera, the Insta360 One R comes with a few drawbacks to consider:

If you need a mount, you must use the Insta360 One R in a case

The Insta360 One R must be placed in a mounting bracket to use it with a tripod. This can be cumbersome when trying to place the One-Inch Mod in the bracket and doing a lens Mod change.

(Here’s a quick tip for working with the One-Inch Mod: Unscrew the lens to get it to fit!)

Certain features are only unlocked when editing in the app

The Insta360 One R can shoot time lapses, star lapses, and can even use a cool feature called Bullet Time that produces a drone-like circling effect on a subject. There are also some creative video editing effects that can be applied to videos in post-production. However, the resulting videos cannot be previewed on the camera. You must use either the Insta360 phone app or the Insta360 Studio app to get the desired effects.

This can be a drawback if you would rather use your own editing software of choice and not deal with an intermediary step.

Insta360 One R desktop editing program
Insta360 Studio desktop editing program

An uncertain future

Even though the Insta360 One R isn’t even a year old, it’s still fair to question its future. Will this first-generation camera get an update? If so, what’s the timeline, and will the update take full advantage of the modular camera setup?

Ideally, you could reuse certain Mods and not have to buy them again when a newer version comes out. But since this is a first-gen camera, it’s hard to say what direction the company will go in.

Insta360 One R Review: Conclusion

Future speculation aside, the Insta360 One R delivers on its promise of being a unique, all-in-one action camera.

The ability to go from a wide-angle lens to a 360 lens using the same camera is extremely convenient, and other action camera companies should take note.

You can purchase the Insta360 One R here for just under $ 500 USD.

The post Insta360 One R Review: An Action Camera With a Twist appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Insta360 One R Review: An Action Camera With a Twist

Posted in Photography

 

Roger Cicala: the difference between sample variation and a ‘bad copy’ (Part 2)

13 Nov
I compare a lot of lenses. They aren’t all exactly the same.

In today’s article we’ll look at variation versus bad copies a bit differently to last time. Plus, I’ll explain how people get three ‘bad copies’ of a lens in a row.

Variation versus bad copy frequency

Imatest type graphs are easier to visualize so I’m going to use those today. These graphs allow us to visualize center resolution (toward the top on the y-axis of the graph) and overall resolution (toward the right on the x-axis), with individual lenses plotted as dots. Don’t worry about the numbers on the X and Y axes, all you need to know is that the sharpest lenses are plotted up and to the right, and the softest are lower and to the left.

The graph below shows plots from multiple copies of two prime lenses. Let’s call them ‘Red’ and ‘Green’. The Green lens is a fairly expensive, pro-grade optic. The Red lens is a cheaper, consumer-level prime. You’ll see that there’s one copy of each in roughly the middle of this graph, away from the main cluster at upper-right. I’d return both of these samples to the manufacturer. So would you – they’re awful.

Multiple copies of two lenses, the ‘Red’ lens and the ‘Green’ lens, plotted by center and overall sharpness. Two bad copies of each are obvious at the lower left.

But could you tell the difference between the best and the worst of the other copies, in that big cluster at upper-right? That would depend on the resolution of your camera, how carefully you pixel-peeped, which lens we are talking about, and honestly, how much you cared.

The Green lens shows less variation, which is about what we expect (but don’t always get) from a fairly expensive, high-quality lens. A perfectionist with a high resolution camera, some testing skill and enough time could tell the top third from the bottom third, but it would take effort.

The Red lens has more variation, which is typical for a consumer-grade lens. A reasonably picky photographer could tell the difference from the top third and the bottom third. None of the bottom third are awful; they’re a little fuzzier, a little more tilted, not quite as good when viewed at 100% magnification, and you might see issues if you made a large print.

With more variation, you get more ‘not as good’ lenses, but they’re still not ‘bad copies’

If you look carefully, though, the top third of the Green and Red samples are about the same. With more variation, you get more ‘not as good’ lenses, but they’re still clearly not ‘bad copies’; they’re just ‘not quite as good’ copies.

So why would we argue about these two lenses on the Internet? Because based on a graph like this, a lot of testing sites might say “Red is as good as Green and costs a lot less.” The truth is simply that the Red lens has more variation. Sure – a good copy of the Red lens might match a good copy of the Green lens. But you’re not guaranteed to get one.

A word about that yellow line and worse variation

There’s obviously a point when large variation means the lower end of the ‘acceptable group’ is unacceptable. Where that line lies is of course arbitrary, so I put an arbitrary yellow line in the graph above, to illustrate the point. Where the yellow line is for you depends on your expectations and your requirements.

The Subjective Quality Factor can theoretically decide when the low end of variation is not OK, and it can be used as a guide to where to place the yellow line. The key words, though, are ‘subjective quality’. Things like print size, camera resolution, even subject matter are variables when it comes to deciding when SQF is not OK. For example, the SQF needed for online display or 4K video is a lot lower than for a 24″ print of a detailed landscape taken with a 40 megapixel camera.

Every one of us has our own SQF; call it your PQF (Personal Quality Factor) and your yellow line might be higher or lower than the one in the graph above. Manufacturers have a Manufacturer’s Quality Factor (MQF) for each of their lenses, which is the famous ‘in spec’.

When your PQF is higher than the MQF, those lower lenses are not OK for you. They might be fine for someone else. Wherever a person’s yellow line is, that’s their demarkation line. These days, if they get a lens below the line, they go on an Internet rant. So now, as promised, I have explained the cause of 8.2% of Ranting On Online Forums (ROOFing). It’s the difference between MQF and PQF.

Put another way, it’s the difference between expectations and reality.

If you test a set of $ 5,000 lenses carefully enough, you may find some differences in image quality. The technical term for this phenomenon is ‘reality’.

It should be pretty obvious that people could screen three or four copies of the Red lens and end up with a copy that’s as good as any Green lens. I don’t find it worth my time, but I’m not judging; testing lenses is what I do.

Unfortunately, though, people don’t post online “I was willing to spend a lot of time to save some money, so I spent 20 hours comparing three copies and got a really good Red lens.” They say “I went through three bad copies before I got a good one.”

The frequency of bad copies and variation

Just so we get it out of the way, the actual, genuine ‘bad copy’ rate is way lower than I showed in the graph above. For high-quality lenses it’s about 1% out-of-the-box. This explains why I roll my eyes every time I hear “I’ve owned 14 Wonderbar lenses and they’re all perfect.” Statistics suggest you’d need to buy over 50 lenses to get a single bad one. The worst lenses we’ve ever seen have a bad copy rate of maybe 3% so even then, the chances are good you wouldn’t get a bad one out of 14.

Most of these ‘those lenses suck / I’ve never had a bad copy’ arguments are just a different way of saying ‘I have different standards than you’

What about the forum warrior ROOFing about getting several bad copies in a row? He’s probably screening his way through sample variation looking for a better than average copy. If he exchanges it, there’s a good chance he won’t get a better one, but after two or three, he’ll get a good one. So he’s really saying “I had to try three copies to find one that was better than average.” Or close to average. Something like that.

Semantics are important. Most of these “those lenses suck / I’ve never had a bad copy” arguments are just a different way of saying “I have different standards than you”. I get asked all the time what happens to the two lenses John Doe returned when he kept the third? Well, they got re-sold, and the new owners are probably happy with them.

Why are there actual bad copies?

In short – inadequate testing. Most photographers greatly overestimate the amount and quality of testing that’s actually done at the factory, particularly at the end of the assembly line.

Many companies use a test target of thick bars to set AF and give a cursory pass-fail evaluation. A target of thick bars is low-resolution; equivalent to the 10 lp/mm on an MTF bench. Some use a 20 lp/mm target to test, and 20 is higher than 10, so that’s good. The trouble is that most modern sensors with a good lens can resolve 50 lp/mm easily. This is what I mean when I say (as I do often) that you and your camera are testing to a higher standard than most manufacturers.

Why is there high variation?

Usually, it’s the manufacturer’s choice, and usually for cost reasons. Occasionally it’s because the manufacturer is living on the cutting edge of technology. I know of a couple cases where a lens had high variation because the manufacturer wanted it to be spectacularly good. They designed-in tolerances that turned out to be too tight to practically produce, but convinced themselves they could produce it. Lenses like this tend to deliver amazing test results, but then attract a whole lot of complaints from some owners and a whole lot of love from others.

What’s that? You want some examples?

This is not the bookcase mentioned below; that one is under nondisclosure. This is my bookcase. My bookcase has better optical books.

Service center testing

Years ago, we had in our possession a $ 4,000 lens that was simply optically bad. It went to the service center twice with no improvement. Finally, the manufacturer insisted I send ‘my’ camera overseas with it for adjusting. The lens and camera came back six weeks later. The lens was no better, but the camera contained a memory card with 27 pictures on it. Those pictures were of a bookshelf full of books, and each image was slightly different as the technician took test shots while they optically adjusted the lens.

This, my friends, is why we decided to start adjusting lenses ourselves. And yes – after offering to share those bookshelf images – I was eventually sent a replacement lens.

Non-adjustable lenses

Many lenses have no optical adjustments. They’re assembled, and then what you get is what you get. If in-factory QC detects a really bad one, it might be disassembled and the parts reused, in the hope that random reassortment gives a better result next time. Or it may just get thrown away; the cost of disassembling and reassembling may be greater than the saved parts.

A common type of non-adjustable lens called a stacked lens; ‘element – spacer – element – spacer, etc’ with a front and rear retaining ring holding everything together. The usual method of correcting it is to loosen the retaining rings, bang the lens on a table a few times, and tighten it back up. That probably sounds ridiculously crude, but it sometimes works.

Many fully manual lenses (not those made by Zeiss or Leica) are non-adjustable, as are some less expensive manufacturer and third-party lenses.

Minimally-adjustable lenses

A number of prime lenses have only one or two adjustable elements. This is not necessarily a bad thing; adjusting one or two elements is a lot easier than adjusting six, so the technician is more likely to get things right.

One of my favorite lenses, both to shoot with and to adjust, is the venerable Zeiss 21mm F2.8 Distagon / Milvus. The front element of this lens is adjustable for centering and we’ve done hundreds of these adjustments over the years. The fun part is doing this adjustment lets you choose what type of lens you want. You can have razor sharp in the center with soft corners or you can let the center be a little softer and the corners much sharper. It’s a great example of adjustment being a trade-off, even for relatively simple adjustments.

MTF graphs of a Zeiss 21mm F2.8 Distagon, adjusted for best center sharpness (above), and optimal edge sharpness (below).

Consumer-grade zoom lenses (manufacturer or third-party) and prime lenses with apertures smaller than F1.4 tend to be minimally or non-adjustable. A fair number of better zooms and primes are minimally adjustable, too.

Lenses with many adjustable elements

More adjustments means less variation, at least in theory. It also, however, means when something is wrong it’s far more complex and time consuming to get the adjustments right. Time, as they say, is money and complex lenses can be rather hard to adjust.

I think the most we’ve seen is nine adjustable elements. These are usually top-of the line zooms, but we’ve seen six adjustable elements in some top-end primes. That’s something we never saw even five or six years ago.

So, what’s the key takeaway?

Let’s start with my definitions. A bad copy of a lens has one or more elements so out of adjustment that its images are obviously bad at a glance. Such a lens (assuming it is optically adjustable) can usually be made as good as the rest.

Variance, on the other hand, means some lenses aren’t as good as others, usually as a result of a number of small imperfections. A simple optical adjustment isn’t likely to make them as good as average. All lenses have a little variance. Some have more. A few have a lot. How much is too much depends on the photographer who’s shooting with them.

The Canon 70-200mm F2.8 RF has (give or take one, I’m not certain I recall all of them) 8 or 9 different adjustable elements.

Reducing variation costs money. The reality is the manufacturers are doing what works for them (or at least they think they are). There is a place for $ 500 lenses with higher variation and good image quality, just like there’s a market for $ 2,000 lenses with better image quality and less variation.

Roger


Roger Cicala is the founder of Lensrentals.com. He started by writing about the history of photography a decade ago, but now mostly writes about the testing, construction and repair of lenses and cameras. He follows Josh Billings’ philosophy: “It’s better to know nothing than to know what ain’t so.”

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Roger Cicala: the difference between sample variation and a ‘bad copy’ (Part 2)

Posted in Uncategorized

 

The Canon EOS R6 is the best camera for around $2000

13 Nov

The Canon EOS R6 is the most well-rounded camera in its class, and it’s our top pick if you’re looking to spend around $ 2000. For a budget-friendlier option, the also-excellent Fujifilm X-T4 is our recommendation.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on The Canon EOS R6 is the best camera for around $2000

Posted in Uncategorized