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Archive for August, 2020

Macro Photography for Beginners

18 Aug

The post Macro Photography for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barrie Smith.

The advent of digital photography swept away one of the most challenging problems in image capture: how to shoot macro without a pile of specialised gear. Now you can get down, dirty, and close in the image capture business, and make macro the digital way with a 100 percent success rate.

ngeblues by Alfian Ismail on 500px.com

I know I’m not alone when I say that macro photography is an absorbing activity: to be able to reach into ‘near space’ and record an image that is not easily visible to the naked eye is an attractive option. There is nothing more satisfying than to make a huge print of an insect, mineral specimen, or any small object that is normally so tiny to the naked eye and captured with the technique of macro photography.

To shoot macro in the days of film — aside from the requirement of using an SLR camera — you needed a few add-ons to take highly magnified images of extremely small subjects.

You could begin by slipping a diopter lens to the front of the existing standard lens, which would impart a degree of magnification; you could also install extension tubes between your normal lens and the camera body; you could also acquire a set of macro bellows and place them between lens and body; and finally, you could invest in a fairly expensive — and optically superb — macro lens that was dedicated to macro shooting. Another option was to fit a reversing ring that allowed you to mount the lens on backward, which improved the close-up resolution and allowed you to focus much more closely. But to be honest, it was a hassle — although you can still use these methods if using a DSLR to shoot macro.

These days, digital does it with a dash! With a digital camera — compact, mirrorless, or DSLR — even newbies are surprised by how easy it is to capture really, really big shots of tiny subjects.

In truth, you can make digital macro photography as basic or as complex as you wish it to be. Even with a budget camera, you can capture images of the tiny world before you, subjects as small as a matchbox, a match-head, or even tinier. The higher-priced compact digital cameras can do it even better, some offering macro shooting with a powerful zoom lens, so you can stand back a bit.

The other approach is to use a DSLR or a mirrorless model; it is surprising how powerful a macro camera circa-$ 1200 USD can become.

Grasshoper macro photography. Image by macropoulos

Image by macropoulos

What is macro photography?

First, an explanatory note for all those with a modicum of photo history and tech basics: the term macro used to refer to the capture of an insect or whatever that resulted in an image on the 35mm film frame (24x36mm) that ranged from 1:10 to 1:1 the size of the original subject. The term micro referred to a film image that was larger than 1:1; micro photography could easily give you a 35mm film image of an ant that was itself larger than the original ant.

A CCD or CMOS sensor can be as tiny as 3x4mm, so any definition term that applied in the film days is now obsolete. But the rules that apply in accomplishing successful and satisfying macro photography still stand.

Normal photography works in using a camera to record a sharp image by adjusting the lens-to-sensor distance to attain precise focus. For distant subjects at infinity, like landscapes, the lens is positioned at a minimum lens-to-sensor distance; to capture sharp images of closer subjects, like people, the lens-to-sensor is increased.

In macro photography, a sharp image of a tiny object requires the lens to be positioned much closer still, with the lens moved even further out than for normal photography.

Just about all compact cameras and some DSLRs have a selectable macro mode. In some cameras you can select the macro mode via an external control, while in others you must select it in the internal menu.

Think about it: no extra lenses, no macro tubes or bellows, no special lenses. What a wonderful world in which to shoot macro!

Flower macro photography. Image by macropoulos

Image by macropoulos

Tips for macro photography beginners

Being curious about how digital cameras can capture macro so easily, I investigated the subject. Here are my findings, gained by chatting to the tech expert at a major camera company.

Engage macro mode on a digital camera, and the system adjusts the lens elements to re-arrange them into an array that best suits close focusing. Quite a feat, as even simple camera lenses have a surprising number of lens elements to juggle.

Unfortunately, by engaging macro mode with the vast majority of cameras, you lose control of both the lens aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed.

Why is this so important?

The best macro photography — regardless of camera — requires that you use the smallest lens aperture to gain optimum image sharpness and depth of field. Using a small lens aperture means you need more light, so you need to extend the exposure time to make a correctly exposed photograph.

So you can’t reduce the lens aperture to a smaller, more favorable setting, nor can you slow the shutter speed to permit the use of a smaller lens aperture.

For the keen macro makers, I’ve discovered a few digital cameras that do allow the use of macro mode and lens and shutter speed adjustment.

With DSLR cameras, the macro operation is somewhat different. Select a macro mode and you activate a different chain of events: With any lens fixed to the camera, engaging macro mode on the camera commands the lens aperture to close to its minimum, therefore extending the depth of field and allowing you to move closer to the subject.

Shooting macro with a compact camera is easy, but you have to forgo a fair bit of control, and you need to understand that the demands of an amateur as far as resolution and color quality are less stringent than the pros.

The pro approach would be to use a purpose-built macro lens on a DSLR or mirrorless camera. Dedicated macro lenses are not cheap, but they are optimized to operate at closer than normal distances. With macro lenses, you are unlikely to experience problems such as color fringing and optical distortion; many macro lenses also compensate for the additional exposure necessary when racking out the lens to distances very different from those used in normal photography.

Read the second part of this series here: Macro Photography for Beginners, Part 2.

Flower macro photography example. Image by ecstaticist

Image by ecstaticist

The post Macro Photography for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barrie Smith.


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Adobe opens up free registration for its all-digital Adobe MAX 2020 conference

18 Aug

Registration for the all-digital Adobe MAX 2020 event is now open and free for all.

Back in May, Adobe announced both of its annual conferences, 99U and Adobe MAX, would be going all-digital amidst the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. Now, Adobe has opened up registration for its Adobe MAX 2020 conference, making it free for all who want to join the virtual version of ‘The Creativity Conference.’

The online event will feature more than 250 speakers and take place from October 19–21. Both the main keynote and the breakout sessions will be available for all registrants. The headlining speakers include photographer Annie Leibovitz; recording artist, producer and director Tyler, the Creator; writer, director and producer Ava DuVernay; and actor and director Keanu Reeves. Dozens of other artists across all disciplines will have keynotes and breakout sessions as well.

You can register for Adobe MAX 2020 and look through the list of speakers on the Adobe MAX 2020 website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: How to thoroughly clean and disinfect your camera

18 Aug

Olympus Europe has partnered with photographer Fernando Marmolejo to share an in-depth guide on how to clean and disinfect both non-weather-sealed and weather-sealed camera systems. While this is clearly an advertisement of sorts for Olympus camera systems, it’s also an insightful guide on how you can keep your gear as clean as possible, especially during a global pandemic.

The nearly eight-minute-long video is entirely in Spanish, so you’ll want to turn on translated subtitles if you don’t speak the language. Language barriers aside though, this is one of the most in-depth guides on cleaning cameras we’ve come across.

The thought of using actual soap and water on a camera — even a weather-sealed camera — can be daunting, but Marmolejo’s guide breaks down how you can do just that without breaking your gear. And, as helpful and sincere as the guide is, there’s also a bit of humor splashed in throughout the guide.

It’s worth noting that even when following this guide, there is a risk for damage and the possibility you’ll void your camera’s warranty, so proceed with extreme caution, regardless of how weather-sealed your camera is.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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New York City map makes it easy to find historical images of NYC from 1939 to 1941

18 Aug

A newly-launched online mapping system called 1940s NYC makes it simple for anyone to find historical images of the city captured from 1939 to 1941 by the New York City Tax Department in collaboration with the Works Progress Administration. The photography initiative involved capturing images of every home, shop and other buildings in all five boroughs, the result being an incredibly detailed time capsule of the city as it existed decades ago.

These historical photographs were already available to the public, but getting them — particularly ones of specific buildings — was time-consuming. Things got a bit more simple in 2018 when the New York City Municipal Archives finished digitizing the full collection, a process that also involved tagging each image so that it could be more easily found online using the right details.

Despite that improvement, the process of browsing these images was still limited. Users must go to the NYC.gov website’s city map tool and enter the exact address for the building of the photo they want. This makes it difficult to casually browse these historical images, something the new 1940s NYC mapping tool solves.

The new and far more capable mapping tool comes from NYC-based software engineer Julian Boilen, who notes on the website that an automated process was used to place the images on the map and, therefore, there is the potential for some ‘imperfections.’

The mapping tool is exceptionally simple to use. Every black dot on the map represents a photo of that location; users can zoom in on individual streets and neighborhoods, which appear to be overlaid with historic city zoning maps. Users can also enter an address to go right to a particular building. This is quite a bit more robust than the mapping tool offered by the city itself.

Users located in New York City also have the option of clicking a location icon that will pull up their current location on the map, making it easy to see what their neighborhood looked like decades ago. As well, the map provides an ‘Outtakes’ section that is a large gallery of browseable photos. Many of these images feature black dots and NYC.gov watermarks.

In addition to serving as a portal to the 1930s – 1940s NYC images, the mapping tool also includes a link to a similar map that features the same variety of imagery, but one captured in the 1980s.

This dataset features 800,000 photos of buildings, according to the tool, as well as more than 100,000 ‘street segments.’ This mapping tool includes a ‘Stories’ feature that provides a series of images alongside the stories behind them.

These stories include things like pointers on spying interesting elements in the photos, details about whether certain buildings still stand and if they were remodeled, notable events that took place at these locations and similar information.

The website is not affiliated with the New York City Department of Records, which is the agency that owns the historical photos. Anyone can order the high-resolution digitized copies or prints of images they like from the city’s Municipal Archives, otherwise, the public is limited to the watermarked and low-resolution versions made accessible by the NYC Department of Records and Information Services.

Including these images, the NYC Municipal Archives Digital Collections website offers the public access to more than 1.6 million digital items, including photos and videos.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Case dismissed against George Steinmetz, whose drone was confiscated for documenting mass burials

18 Aug

Back in April, an award-winning National Geographic and New York Times photographer, George Steinmetz, had his DJI Phantom 4 Pro drone confiscated by the New York Police Department (NYPD) while documenting mass COVID-19 burials on Hart Island. Steinmetz was issued a desk ticket for violating NYC Administrative Code § 10–126, which prohibits the takeoff and landing of drones within New York City.

A preliminary hearing was scheduled for early August. During that time, the NYPD held onto Steinmetz’ Phantom 4 Pro as ‘evidence.’ After an unsuccessful attempt to get it back, he went on to purchase two DJI Mavic 2 Pro drones. ‘I need to get back to work,’ Steinmetz explained. ‘The Mavic 2 Pro is in a real sweet spot for me. I prefer the optics and files from the big bird, the Inspire 2 with the X7 gimbal. But the Mav 2 flies really well, has a decent file…the compactness is quite revolutionary.’

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Preparing for burials of what appear to be more COVID-19 victims this morning on Hart Island, New York City. For over 150 years this island with no public access has been used to bury over a million souls who’s bodies were not claimed for private burial. With the morgues of NYC strained, the pace of burials on Hart Island has increased dramatically. I was cited by NYPD while taking this photo, and my drone was confiscated as evidence, for a court date tentatively scheduled for mid-August. #keepthememorycard

A post shared by George Steinmetz (@geosteinmetz) on

Steinmetz’ story has a happy ending, after all. ‘My case was spontaneously dismissed last week [the week of August 7th, 2020], so I went down to the Bronx Police HQ on Wednesday and recovered it. During the time it was confiscated I had to buy a replacement to keep working, and don’t know if I will pursue any further legal action,’ he tells DPReview.

We will keep you updated if any new developments come about.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Decline in Camera Sales Continues While Sony Outpaces Nikon

17 Aug

The post Decline in Camera Sales Continues While Sony Outpaces Nikon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

decline in camera sales Canon EOS R6

Nikkei has unveiled the 2019 sales and market share data for digital cameras, and numbers are looking bad across the board:

In 2019, camera units sold dropped by over 22%, which mirrors last year’s 22% decline, and suggests that the shrinking digital camera market won’t stabilize anytime soon.

Nikkei also revealed individual market share numbers:

  • Canon is the industry leader (45.4% market share)
  • Sony is now second (20.2% market share)
  • Nikon comes in to third (18.6% market share)
  • Fujifilm claims fourth (4.7% market share)
  • Panasonic nabs fifth (4.7% market share)

Last July, we reported on market share data, and the biggest news was Nikon’s decline. If you compare the 2019 data (above) to last year’s data (here), you’ll see that Nikon has descended yet again, dropping from the second spot to third (to be replaced by Sony, which increased its market share after a 2018 downturn).

This is in spite of the Nikon Z6, Z7, and Z50 models, which were Nikon’s (seemingly unsuccessful) attempt at refreshing its DSLR-centric camera program to compete better with major mirrorless players. As is clear from the numbers, a few high-performing mirrorless models just weren’t enough to outcompete Sony, a company that has been steadily capturing photographers thanks to a well-rounded APS-C and full-frame camera lineup.

But despite Sony’s impressive array of mirrorless models, it is Canon that managed to capture the largest digital camera market share in 2019, and has continued to eclipse its competitors by showing significant overall market share growth from 2018.

And while Canon has gained a lot of negative press lately thanks to EOS R5 overheating issues, it’s tough to see Canon losing its dominance anytime soon, especially when you consider the company’s “full steam ahead” approach to mirrorless development in 2020, with the release of both the EOS R5 and EOS R6, new RF lenses, and more.

Also notable is the fifth position in the market share rankings, previously occupied by Olympus but now held by Panasonic. This is hardly a surprise, given Olympus’s decision to sell off their camera division, but note that Panasonic is now pretty much on par with Fujifilm (a company that had seen a significant increase of market share in 2018, only to drop again in 2019).

Now over to you:

When do you think the camera market decline will end? Or is this the end of mass-market digital cameras? Also, how do you feel about Nikon’s descent? Do you think the company will rebound for this year’s data? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Decline in Camera Sales Continues While Sony Outpaces Nikon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Slideshow: The ‘Best Images Entered So Far’ for the 2020 Comedy Pet Photo Awards

17 Aug

Mars Petcare Comedy Pet Photo Awards

The Mars Petcare Comedy Pet Photo Awards is still taking submissions through August 31, 2020 for its 2020 competition, but the organizers have already released a few of their favorite images submitted thus far, showcasing humorous photos of pets from around the world.

‘From the founders of the world-famous Comedy Wildlife Photography Awards, Paul Joynson-Hicks and Tom Sullam have created a fun photography competition calling on all pet and animal lovers to submit hilarious images of their funny furry friends for a chance of winning £3,000 and being named the 2020 Mars Petcare Comedy Pet Photographer of the Year,’ reads the press release for the ‘Best Images Entered So Far’ gallery.

In addition to laughter, the competition also aims to raise awareness around homeless pets in the United Kingdom, with 10% of the sponsorship fees and 10% of all entry fees going to the Blue Cross, a ‘UK Pet charity to help with its work rehoming pets and providing veterinary treatment and care.’

If you’re interested in submitting your own images to the competition, you can do so through August 31. Of the submitted images, 40 finalists will be announced on September 28 and the winning image will be announced on November 19th. For £5 you can enter five photos or videos; for £10 you can enter 15 photos or videos. There are multiple categories you can submit your photos into, including Dogs, Cats, The Mighty Horse and more.

You can find out more by visiting the Comedy Pet Photo competition website.

Maria Indurain — Intellectual Dog

© Maria Indurain / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Maria Indurain

Title: Intellectual Dog

Animal Name: Newton

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: Barcelona, Spain

Magdaléna Straková — Snow Monster

© Magdaléna Straková / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Magdaléna Straková

Title: Snow Monster

Animal Name: Not Available

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: Czech Republic

Magdaléna Straková — Gossip Girls

© Magdaléna Straková / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Magdaléna Straková

Title: Gossip Girls

Animal Name: Not Available

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: Czech Republic

Sally Billam — Ding Dong’ Can you spare a few mins of your time?

© Sally Billam / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Sally Billam

Title: Ding Dong’ Can you spare a few mins of your time?

Animal Name: Freddie

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: East Yorkshire, UK

Isabelle Merriman — Guinea Pigs Doing Tricks

© Isabelle Merriman / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Isabelle Merriman

Title: Guinea Pigs Doing Tricks

Animal Name: Stigg & Minky

Animal Type: Guinea Pigs

Location of shot: Guildford, UK

Iain McConnell — Overdramatic Cat

© Iain McConnell / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Iain McConnell

Title: Overdramatic Cat

Animal Name: Edmund

Animal Type: Cat

Location of shot: Oswestry, UK

Nicole Rayner — Smiley!

© Nicole Rayner / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Nicole Rayner

Title: Smiley!

Animal Name: Mimi

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: Manchester, UK

Alice Van Kempen — The Shepherd’s family road trip

© Alice Van Kempen / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Alice Van Kempen

Title: The Shepherd’s family road trip

Animal Name: Not available

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: Netherlands

Sarah Bub — Cat or Snail?

© Sarah Bub / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Sarah Bub

Title: Cat or Snail?

Animal Name: Ron

Animal Type: Cat

Location of shot: Kreuztal, Germany

Karen Hoglund — Hunting Dog Dropout

© Karen Hoglund / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Karen Hoglund

Title: Hunting Dog Dropout

Animal Name: Murphy (The Turkey is a prop)

Animal Type: Dog

Location of shot: Colorado Mountains, USA

Teun Veldman — Red Slippers? I don’t know anything about red slippers

© Teun Veldman / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Teun Veldman

Title: Red Slippers? I don’t know anything about red slippers

Animal Name: Not Available

Animal Type: Kitten

Location of shot: Netherlands

Mehmet Aslan — The Social Distance Meal Order

© Mehmet Aslan / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Mehmet Aslan

Title: The Social Distance Meal Order

Animal Name: Not Available

Animal Type: Cats

Location of shot: Turkey

Mehmet Aslan — Smile

© Mehmet Aslan / Comedy Pet Photo Awards 2020

Photographer: Mehmet Aslan

Title: Smiley!

Animal Name: Not Available

Animal Type: Dog and Horse

Location of shot: Turkey

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Pentax-D FA* 85mm F1.4 sample gallery

16 Aug

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The FA* 85mm F1.4 is the latest high-end optic Ricoh has released for Pentax full-frame and crop-sensor DSLR cameras. It’s ruggedly built and it joins the FA* 50mm F1.4 as one of the latest fast-aperture lenses for the Pentax K-mount. Peruse our gallery to get a sense of how it performs.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night

16 Aug

The post How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.

Gastown Light Trails

Gastown light trails, Vancouver, Canada

Before I understood how photography worked, I was always intrigued by light trails in images. I never understood how that happened. When I began to study photography, one of the first assignments I did was an advanced course on night photography. I decided I would try and capture some light trails.

I set up my camera, made sure the settings were correct and waited. A few cars went past, but my timing was off and the shots were not great. I continued to wait. After about an hour of trying and experimenting, I got the shot I was looking for. It was like magic to me.

The car was not in the shot but the lights seemed to float in mid-air. I was hooked. This was something that had mystified me for a long time, yet I had managed to get it right. What was so mesmerizing for me was that the image I saw on my LCD screen was not what I saw in real life. The camera had managed to capture a scene that my eyes could not capture in the same way. This seemed amazing to me.

I soon realized that the camera was able to “see” things differently compared to the way my eyes saw them. I spent many nights trying to capture light trails in various locations. I was also doing lots of reading and research and came across a technique called long exposure.

This too was amazing. It had the ability to alter a scene in such a way that it looked totally different to the way our eyes normally see it. Again I was hooked; to this day, long exposures and light trails are some of my favorite techniques in photography.

Long exposure photography and light trails have similar techniques; it is the subject matter that differs. So I will discuss each technique separately, and tell you how to get the best results in both.

How to do long exposure photography

Shooting long exposures effectively requires that you should be shooting in Manual mode as much as possible. If you are not sure how to shoot in Manual, take a look at “Getting Off Auto – Manual, Aperture and Shutter Priority Modes Explained to learn more about these modes. To be able to get sharp and effective long exposure images, here is a checklist of items you will need.

1. What equipment is needed to shoot long exposures?

  • A tripod – this is a good piece of equipment to have in most instances, but is a critical piece of equipment for shooting long exposures. Make sure your camera is properly mounted onto the tripod before you start shooting.
  • A camera – obviously you will need a camera, but many people assume you can only do this type of photography with an SLR. Some advanced point-and-shoot cameras can also do long exposures if they have a Shutter Priority function. Take a look in your camera’s manual to see if it has this function; you may be surprised.
  • Cable release – your camera will be on a tripod, so it should be very still. However, sometimes the action of pressing the shutter release button can cause the camera to move slightly and this movement can cause your image to blur very slightly. You may not notice this on the LCD screen, but when you open the image on your computer, it will be evident. I recommend getting a cable release (also called a remote trigger). It is simply a cable that attaches to your camera and acts as a shutter release button. Using a cable release means you can set up your camera, step away from the tripod, and press the button without touching the camera. Cable releases can be wireless too. If you don’t have a cable release or don’t want to buy one, you could use your camera’s self-timer function to trigger the shutter.
  • Warm clothes and comfortable shoes – depending on where you live, and depending on the time of year you plan to be shooting, you may need to dress warmly. Long exposures work well after dark and it may get cold, so be sure to wear warm clothes. Be sure that you have comfortable footwear, too, as you may be standing for a few hours.

2. What subjects are best for long exposure photography?

Long exposures work well for certain types of subjects like seascapes, landscapes, and cityscapes. The key to getting a successful long exposure image is to have something in your image that is perfectly still and something that is moving. Water, clouds, and trees blowing in the wind all work well if the rest of the scene is stationary. This difference between the elements in the scene will create drama, and will add significant value to your image. The viewer will be seeing something that cannot be seen with the naked eye.

The reason why long exposure images are so compelling is that they warp time. Water looks like a soft mist, trees look like a dull blur, and clouds become long and streaky. This is what makes a familiar scene more compelling.

Long Exposure scene in Vancouver BC

Long exposure scene in Vancouver, Canada

3. What camera settings should be used?

Long exposures are ideally shot in Manual mode. If you are not sure how to shoot in Manual mode, you can use one of the other semi-manual modes such as Aperture priority or Shutter priority. Here are some quick pointers on the settings:

  • Shutter speed – depending on the light in your scene, your shutter time will need to be at least 10 to 15 seconds, or longer if necessary. If you are doing a seascape and the water is moving quickly, then a few seconds may be long enough to make the water look misty.
  • Aperture – you will want to have your aperture set at anywhere between f/8 and f/16. This will be determined by how much light is in the scene and how long you want to expose for.
  • ISO – keep your ISO settings as low as possible. ISO 100 is what I use for long exposures.

4. When is the best time of day to shoot long exposures?

It’s normally a good idea to shoot long exposures as the sun is setting, or just after sunset. My suggestion is to be on the scene an hour before sunset. That way you can test some shots, make sure your composition is good, and be sure all your settings are correct. Then wait.

I will sometimes simply sit there and enjoy the scene; other times I may listen to some music. But I like to be relaxed and ready for when the light starts to work. Normally you will want to start shooting about 15 minutes before the sun has completely set and up to an hour after it is below the horizon. The important part is to be willing to experiment.

Each time you decide to shoot long exposures will be a little different. The light may be brighter than you think, the sunset may not be as dramatic as you hoped, or the shot may not be just as you imagined. Be patient and experiment. I will sometimes go back to a location two or three times to try and get the shot I am looking for. Once I have it, though, the sense of reward is fantastic, and the patience and effort are paid off!

Long Exposure of Science World in Vancouver

Long exposure of Science World in Vancouver

How to shoot light trails

Much of the advice for shooting light trails is very similar to the tips above. The key difference is in the timing and location of your shoot.

1. What equipment is needed to shoot light trails?

  • Same as above 

2. What subjects are best for light trails?

For light trails to work, you need to have something with lights moving through your scene. A car, a bus, a train, and even an aircraft can work. Be sure to be out of the direction of the vehicle you are photographing. Please do not stand in the middle of the road, or on train tracks. Position yourself in a safe place to make this work. Always be aware of your surroundings. It is easy to become immersed in what you are shooting and lose sight of where you are standing. Be safe, first and foremost!

A moving bus in the scene made this shot more dynamic

A moving bus in the scene made this shot more dynamic

3. What camera settings should be used?

Light trails, like long exposures, are ideally shot in Manual mode.

  • Shutter speed – depending on the light in your scene, your shutter time will need to be at least 10 to 15 seconds, or longer if necessary. Make sure that your shutter speed is long enough to capture longish light trails. You don’t want to cut them off too soon as you will have some short trails in your image that may look strange.
  • Aperture – you will want to have your aperture set at anywhere between f/5 and f/11. This will be determined by how much light is in the scene and how long you want the exposure.
  • ISO – keep your ISO settings as low as possible; ISO 100 is what I use for light trails. If your ISO is set to 500 or higher, your exposure will be shorter and you run the risk of overexposing the highlights, especially when shooting car headlights.

4. When is the best time of day to shoot light trails?

Light trails can be shot in the early evening, or after the sun has set. Each scene will be different, but sometimes it is too light to get effective light trails just after sunset. You may need to wait until 30 minutes after the sun has set to get longer light trails.

The important part, once again, is to be willing to experiment. Try different times after sunset and see what works for you. Spend time behind your camera perfecting your timing. Scout locations during the day that you will think will work for light trails and then go and try it out.

Steam Clock in Gastown, light trails on the road

Steam Clock in Gastown, light trails on the road

Photographing after dark can be very rewarding. It is worth the effort to learn how to use these techniques to bring new images into your portfolio, and to have new skills which will enable you to shoot under any lighting conditions. Experiment and enjoy it! Happy shooting.

The post How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.


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How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage

15 Aug

The post How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nick Fancher.

The setup

1

If you want to take dramatic portraits on a black backdrop (without even needing a single light), a garage is your new go-to spot.

This is the simplest (and most makeshift looking) setup that I use. As you can see in the image above, all I am using is a piece of black foam core, folded into a “V,” set inside a garage on a sunny day.

While you can accomplish this setup on overcast days, having a sunny day helps to increase the brightness of everything outside the garage, thus increasing the catch light in the model’s eyes. The sunny daylight scene outside the garage essentially acts as a giant reflector, which illuminates the area under the subject’s chin to soften shadows.

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The reason why a garage is great for this kind of setup is that it allows you to place your subject closer or further away from the bright, outdoor light, depending on how much light you want in your subject’s eyes or how even you want the light to appear.

For example, if the subject is right at the edge of the garage, just out of the sun, the exposure will be very bright, requiring a very fast shutter speed and/or a small aperture, but they will have large catchlights in their eyes. Note that the smaller aperture will cause the image to be sharper from the front to the back. Also, the closer the subject is to the bright outside, the darker the background will be once you’ve adjusted your exposure for their skin tone.

Alternatively, if the subject is placed deeper into the garage, it allows you to use a wider aperture or slower shutter speed, which can create a flattering, softer, shallow depth of field look, though the catch light and overall light quality will change.

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Shooting in a garage is the equivalent to a one-light studio portrait since the only light source is the open garage door. This increases the appearance of the image being a studio portrait, as it mimics a large softbox or octabox (though an open garage door is larger and less expensive).

If you want to have more light, such as hair light and rim light, to create separation between a subject and the background, there is another option available to you. Simply place your subject on the shaded side of the garage, allowing the sun to light just the edges of your subject’s hair and shoulders, as seen below.

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The one downside to having a huge wall of soft light in front of your subject is that it can flatten out the subject, which can make the lighting appear flat or boring. One remedy for this is flagging off portions of the light, as seen in the image below. Note that any object you place in front of the model to flag the light will also change the shape of the catchlights in their eyes.

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For portraits like this, you will want to use a focal length of at least 50mm or longer. Anything wider angle will lead to distortion of the subject’s features. Since you are shooting outdoors, you have unlimited space to back away from the subject. So I like to use my 70-200mm lens for these types of headshots.

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The other perks that come with shooting outside or in a garage are that you have a free hair fan and plenty of ventilation, which comes in handy when you’re shooting smoke.

My buddy Colin is a drummer in the band House of Heroes. He approached me to shoot the cover of their latest EP, Smoke. He wanted a dramatic, close-up of a girl’s face with smoke all around. I knew that my garage would be the perfect spot to conduct the shoot (as it’s open-air with bright light).

I placed whiteboards on either side of Courtney, which helped to not only fill in any shadows under her jaw but also add catchlights to her eyes. In addition to the images of Courtney, I also shot several frames of smoke being exhaled by Colin (try doing that inside a studio) isolated on the black backdrop, which was later overlaid on the final image of the model in post-production.

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Have you tried doing portraits in your garage or other makeshift location? Have any additional tips? Please share in the comments.

How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage

The post How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nick Fancher.


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