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Archive for May, 2020

Panasonic announces Lumix S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 lens for L-mount

27 May

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Panasonic has announced its new Lumix S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 lens for L-mount bodies. Its 20-60mm focal length is shorter but significantly wider than most variable aperture standard zooms, which are typically around the 28-80mm range.

Of the 11 elements on this unstabilized lens, two are aspherical, three are extra-low dispersion and one is ultra-high refractive index. The lens has a minimum focus distance of 15cm (just under 6″) with a maximum magnification of 0.43x.

Panasonic says the lens has been designed to suppress focus breathing (the change of effective focal length at different focus distances) for video shooters, who are likely to appreciate its wide-angle capabilities.

The lens weighs in at just 350 grams (12 ounces) and is dust and splash resistant, and functional down to –10°C (14°F). A fluorine coating on the front element repels water and oil.

The Lumix S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6mm lens will ship in late July for $ 599.

Press release

Panasonic Launches a New L-Mount Interchangeable Lens for the LUMIX S Series Full-frame Digital Single Lens Mirrorless Camera

LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 (S-R2060)

Newark, NJ (May 27, 2020) – Panasonic is proud to introduce a new interchangeable standard zoom lens, the LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 (S-R2060) based on the L-Mount system for the LUMIX S Series Full-frame Digital Single Lens Mirrorless Camera. Designed for professional use, the LUMIX S Series pursues uncompromising photographic expression with its high-quality cameras and lenses.

The new LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 is a compact, lightweight standard zoom lens that covers from ultra-wide 20mm to standard 60mm focal length for versatile use including landscape photography. The wide viewing angle makes it easier to shoot indoors where space is limited and stunning close-up capability of 5.9 inches / 0.15m (maximum magnification 0.43x) supports still life photography. The new LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 also ensures smooth, high quality video recording because of a mechanism that suppresses focus breathing, which can an issue in interchangeable lenses designed for still image photography.

With 11 elements in 9 groups, the use of 2 aspherical lenses and 3 ED (Extra-low Dispersion) lenses effectively suppresses both axial chromatic aberration and chromatic aberration of magnification. Astigmatism is also corrected with these aspherical lenses, achieving high resolving performance. Furthermore, a UHR (Ultra-High Refractive Index) lens achieves uniform image quality from the center to edges of the image while contributing to downsizing of the lens unit.

With its compact, approximately 12.3 oz / 350g of light weight, the LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 features stunning mobility. The rugged dust/splash-resistant* design withstands use under harsh conditions even at 14°F / -10°C for high mobility. In addition, a fluorine coating on the front element repels water and oil and prevents them from attaching. The filter diameter is 67 mm, with a 9-blade circular aperture diaphragm.

Panasonic and L-Mount system alliance are committed to the development of L-Mount lenses for the further expansion of its lineup to fulfill the needs of end users .

The LUMIX S 20-60mm lens will be available at the end of July for $ 599.99.

*Dust and Splash Resistant does not guarantee that damage will not occur if this lens is subjected to direct contact with dust and water.
•Design and specifications are subject to change without notice.

Panasonic Lumix S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 specifications

Principal specifications
Lens type Zoom lens
Max Format size 35mm FF
Focal length 20–60 mm
Image stabilization No
Lens mount Leica SL
Aperture
Maximum aperture F3.5–5.6
Minimum aperture F22
Aperture ring No
Number of diaphragm blades 9
Optics
Elements 11
Groups 9
Special elements / coatings 3 ED + 2 aspherical + 1 UHR element
Focus
Minimum focus 0.15 m (5.91)
Maximum magnification 0.43×
Autofocus Yes
Motor type Stepper motor
Full time manual Yes
Focus method Internal
Distance scale No
DoF scale No
Physical
Weight 350 g (0.77 lb)
Diameter 77 mm (3.03)
Length 87 mm (3.43)
Sealing Yes
Colour Black
Zoom method Rotary (extending)
Power zoom No
Zoom lock No
Filter thread 67 mm
Hood supplied Yes

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm releases Windows-only app for turning your X series, GFX System cameras into a webcam

27 May

Following in the footsteps of Canon, Fujifilm has released a Windows-only program for turning your Fujifilm camera system into a webcam.

Fujifilm X Webcam, as it’s being called, makes it possible to turn nine different Fujifilm X Series and GFX System digital cameras into webcams for use with video conferencing software such as Skype and Zoom. We previously shared how you can do this through more convoluted means, but this first-party program should make it easier and guarantee better integration with the supported Fujifilm systems, including the GFX100, GFX 50S, GFX 50R, X-H1, X-Pro2, X-Pro3, X-T2, X-T3 and X-T4.

Much like Canon’s webcam software, Fujifilm’s is Windows-only for now, so macOS users will still have to use third-party means of accomplishing this. You can download Fujifilm X Webcam for free on Fujifilm’s website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly

27 May

The post The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

dps-corona-photography-workflow

The bad medical virus

While the planet seeks a solution to the pandemic problem, may I suggest we use this opportunity to participate in an innovative photographic exercise? This might be just the spherical ray of light (corona) we photographers need in the midst of a dark and scary time. Fortunately, photography is a very personal process. We all use digital devices to capture interesting subjects and express emotions, but none of those devices are multi-person in function. So why not step up your personal photography and share your projects more openly online with a Corona photography workflow.

There are two obvious opportunities available to everybody that are both extremely safe while being very public. Why not join both the Facebook groups of your local photo club as well as the DPS Facebook group and (safely) start sharing more openly with thousands of your closest friends?

corona photography workflow - flower - purple flower

I’m appealing to the leadership of every photo and camera club to provide online assignments and challenges based on the subject of light. Publish each submission publicly and give recognition to all entries.

The assignments and challenges can be announced on club Facebook pages and posted (in larger sizes) on club websites. This will not only promote activity within the clubs but will share those talents with the rest of the world’s photo enthusiasts. This kind of effort will show the heart of the digital photo community and will widen the family circle and lift the spirits of millions.

Digital photography is a very dynamic and growing lifestyle, especially with the increased photographic capabilities of today’s camera phones. Photo clubs are comprised of all echelons of experience and all levels of equipment and now includes a growing number of phone photographers.

We’ve all seen some pretty amazing examples of great pictures captured by camera phones, with several clubs even featuring dedicated internal groups. The software features within these phones are both mind-boggling and beyond the capabilities of many very expensive dedicated digital cameras.

Add to this the ability of camera phones to immediately (and extensively) edit and post images to all forms of social media.

The good digital viral process

The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly

Lifestyle photography is widely accepted, and the sharing of images is commonplace in our world culture. Since we all travel with these mini-marvels, virtually everybody can participate in this Corona photography workflow project, and with little effort, it will go viral quickly. This kind of virus is good. This way, personal creativity can be unleashed and shared almost without limits in either subject matter or interpretation.

If well-coordinated, it can unite the minds and emotions of people and redirect emotions to a positive place while the medical world works diligently on an effective solution to the medical problem.

Social community should be a goal that is openly promoted and encouraged by local photo clubs sponsoring “socially distanced” group activities and photo opportunities. Photo challenges can be organized online through a number of social media. During a time of world crisis like we are currently facing, the nervous human psyche can either suffer fear-overload or be creatively redirected. This is one avenue that we can all travel safely.

corona photography workflow - flower

Shared activities need not stop; they simply need to be redefined as virtual group activities. This new sharing can become interpersonal and actually create stronger bonds between individuals who otherwise might not participate in typical meetings.

Social media has proven to provide a community sharing process that is even more inclusive than literal clubhouse meetings. This digital extension of the photo community clubhouse has a very real chance to involve persons from all aspects of society and age groups.

Keeping your distance

Digital cameras offer the ability to capture images from a distance and thus maintain and observe the six-foot protection rule. Even if you don’t have a telephoto or zoom lens, the higher resolution of cameras and phones allows image enlargement to reveal distant detail – especially since Internet images are usually restricted to around 1500 pixels (long dimension). No longer are photographers restricted to close proximity to the subject to capture significant detail.

This resolution restriction can actually work to your advantage in this respect: you can enlarge images to a greater magnification with no noticeable loss of detail.

Keeping your distance also allows you to capture images more candidly and thus more naturally. This is how you turn a limitation into an advantage.

The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly

While the normal reticence of sharing in public is a barrier that holds back some from participating in public meetings, with this online Corona photography workflow, sharing ideas and experiences might just break that barrier for some and provide them a fresh opportunity to participate. Now they can share a voice and increase personal involvement in a (socially and medically) safe environment.

In social media, everybody is on level ground and has an equal chance to “speak up” and participate. Sharing is a vital part of the human experience, and this unique opportunity could provide that social spark that we need to get through this situation and be better for it.

The Internet provides both good and not-so-good subject material and expression, but within the individual online club environment, this behavior can be more carefully monitored and even protected.

The challenge

Here’s what I propose that we adopt and promote without hesitation…

Individuals:

If you are not currently a photo club member (either local or online), join (at least) one right now; I am a member of several.

Each local club has a website and a Facebook page. Even if you only read DPS articles and rarely comment, this will give you a chance to speak out (in a silent way) and let us hear from you!

Search your favorite social media for online groups and clubs. There are dozens available, and many are geared to unique kinds of photography. There is rarely a fee involved, and your involvement is welcomed.

I just started an online Facebook group called “Corona Camera Club” just to push back on the negative connotation and put a new twist to the term. This will be a group based on light, not darkness. The basic “focus” of the group will be on the lighter side of photography. I invite everyone to join in and start sharing photos and posting positive experiences. There’s enough negative energy in the world right now, let’s turn up the light and keep it positive.

Club and group leaders

Post challenges to your members based on weekly (or monthly) themes. Keep these themes upbeat and creative. Provide online access to articles and presentations that would normally be presented in your local club meetings.

Contact all your members individually and encourage them to enlist one friend every week to join the group. This Corona photography workflow effort is like an old fashioned block party where all neighbors gather and share food and activities. Okay, we can’t eat online, but we can interact more frequently.

Don’t hesitate to research group sharing opportunities available to businesses and online schools to conduct interactive meetings and turn them into online clubhouses. I certainly invite your current members to join our CCC Facebook group too. Let’s make this a universal family project.

Get creative

Take this opportunity to show your creative imagination. Share images that are upbeat, positive, and inspiring. We all need to be realistic about the problems and risks and our physical activities are restricted, but our minds can run wild. Use this time to brighten eyes and uplift spirits. I’m using this post to try out a personal interpretation of some of my nature shots.

Finally, make your contributions and comments often and regular. Since this Corona medical crisis has limited our physical gatherings, let’s just gather online and channel our energies in a more positive collective enthusiasm. Use your computer, your tablet, and your phone to connect with friends and loved ones using all the services that are available. Love and camaraderie are contagious too, and this kind of infection is all good.

corona photography workflow - flower - plant

Let’s determine to find the lighter side of this dark cloud and turn the threatening negative into a big positive. When this scary time is over, the new friendships and associations will be all the deeper, and we can resume our lives on a higher level.

Remember, the word corona only recently has been defined by a virus. One of the dictionary definitions of corona describes the super bright crown of light that surrounds the Sun. It’s time to get out of the darkness and dive into the light.

Let’s participate in this Corona photography workflow and give this word a new meaning as we lighten up.

The post The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting

27 May

The post Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

ways to easily use lightroom yo find photos worth revisiting

I don’t have to tell you these are abnormal times. Like many others in every profession, photographers are experiencing a huge decrease in business due to stay-at-home and social distancing restrictions. While we hobbyist photographers may not rely on photography for our income, we just aren’t getting out as much to take pictures. So, maybe this is the time to go “back to the mine” (your photo archives), to see if you’ve overlooked some diamonds in the rough worth revisiting. Let’s take a look at how to use Adobe Lightroom to find photos you might have passed over. Also, how to use it to do some cleanup you just never got around to before.

Use Lightroom to find photos you might have passed over.  You could discover you have some diamonds in the rough just needing polishing.
I’d passed this shot by after an edit session I did years ago following a trip to Trillium Lake in Oregon. Now, using Lightroom to find photos I’d passed over, I found it was a diamond in the rough, simply needing some polishing.

See if this describes you

You’re a photographer and make photos pretty routinely on trips, photoshoots, studio sessions, weddings, portrait work, or whatever genre of photography you do.

You make dozens, if not hundreds of images, during just a single shoot.

Then, you want to quickly edit and get the best shots to your client, perhaps print some, or post the best to social media. When done, you’ve cherry-picked the best shots, edited them, wrapped up and moved on.

Left behind on your drive are perhaps the other 95-percent of shots that didn’t jump out at the time. There are quite possibly some good images still there that might only take a little extra editing to polish up, diamonds in the rough as it were.

Perhaps the shots were taken years ago, maybe even with lesser cameras, but now with more editing experience, you have skills to bring them to life.

There are also photos you’ll never use. Trash that just never got taken out. Images just taking up room on your hard drive.

Let’s cover how to use Lightroom to find photos, flag them for a second look or clean them out.

Get a DAM

Lightroom is a very capable photo editor, but there’s little dispute that Photoshop is the more powerful program for really serious photo editing.

Other programs have also risen to the forefront; Skylum Luminar, Phase One Capture One Pro, Corel Paintshop Pro, DXO Photolab, and ACDSee Ultimate. The list is growing and joined by many free and quite capable photo editing programs.

Lightroom flagging, rating, and color-coding tools
Using the Flags, Star-Ratings, and Color Codes in Lightroom is a great way to better manage your photo library.

One of the greatest strengths of Adobe Lightroom, however, is as a Digital Asset Management (DAM) tool.

In layman’s terms, that means it does a great job of organizing your photos, helping you search for images using keywords, ratings, color-codes, flags, collections, filters, and other means of organizing, sorting, and searching. At its core, Lightroom is a database program.

Many photographers who have spent years learning Photoshop still use that tool for most of their editing but are now looking to Lightroom as a partner program for organizing their photo libraries. What they had previously done with Adobe Camera Raw and Bridge can be done with Lightroom, which if desired, can simply send images out to Photoshop for editing or be used as an editor and more.

A jealous secretary

A concept many new Lightroom users find hard to grasp is that the photos you work with while using it are not “in” Lightroom. Lightroom is strictly a note-taker, a “secretary” to use that term, that records everything about an image; where it is, the metadata, how you’ve rated, flagged, color-coded, keyworded, and otherwise tagged it.

When you edit a photo in Lightroom, each and every step of that edit, text data, is stored in what is called the “catalog.” Your images are never altered, Lightroom just appends “notes” to them.

I tell you that to tell you this – Lightroom is a “jealous secretary.” She will keep meticulous notes about everything you do with your images, so long as you use “her” to do the work.

If you work with your images outside of Lightroom, say using the File Explorer in Windows or the Finder on a Mac, you are essentially working “behind Lightroom’s back.” She will let you know it too, losing track of where your images are and what you’ve done to them.

Ever see a “?” mark on your Lightroom photo or folder? That’s your secretary scolding you. There are ways to recover from this, but my recommendation is if you are going to use Lightroom as your DAM program, keep your jealous secretary happy and do all your image management with her exclusively.

Lost folders or photos in Lightroom.
Question marks on folders of photos in Lightroom means the program can’t locate the item. This will happen when you use tools outside of Lightroom to move or change your image.

A culling session

If culling is not a term familiar to you, here’s a dictionary definition: “A selection of things you intend to reject.”

In Lightroom, one of the first things you need to do to work with images is to “import” them. This is sometimes where people become confused. An “import” in Lightroom is simply a means of telling the program where your images are.

Let’s use two examples of how this might work.

  1. Returning from a shoot, I have my images on my camera card. I pull the card from the camera, put it in a card reader, open Lightroom and using the Import process. Here, I copy the files from the card to a location on a computer hard drive, be it an internal or external drive. Lightroom copies the images to that location, builds thumbnails for them, and stores the information in its catalog.
  2. I already have the photos somewhere on one of my computer drives. I use the Import function of Lightroom to Add the photos to the LR catalog. Lightroom does not move or copy anything, it simply now has information about those images and where they are.
Using the Lightroom Copy method of Importing
If you are importing images from a camera card into Lightroom and want it to copy them to a location on your hard drive, the “Copy” method is what you want.

In both scenarios, the photo files are not “in” Lightroom, and not in a subfolder of that program. They are wherever you chose to store them. However, now your “LR secretary” is keeping track of them.

Using the Import Add method of bringing images into Lightroom
If your images are already on one of your computer drives and you simply want to be able to work with them in Lightroom use the Import “Add” function, not the “Copy” function.

Once visible in Lightroom, the temptation is to look through them and start editing the ones that jump out at you. I’ve done that many times, in a hurry to get to the obvious “nuggets” and start editing them.

Instead, I’d like to introduce you to a way to more formally, and with greater organization, go through a folder of images.

The proper way to do this is when you first start working with that new folder of images. But, if you are like me, you might not have known to, were lazy and impatient, or for whatever reason just didn’t do this. No worries, it’s not too late for a proper culling session.

Here are the steps:

  • Go to the folder where you have the images. You should be in the Library module of Lightroom and in the grid view (Hit “G” on your keyboard) so you can see all of your images.
  • Do some folder-level keywording. If all of the images in the folder were, for example, taken at the beach, you might want all of them to have that keyword to aid in searching later. Hit Ctrl (Cmd on Mac) A to select all of the images. Then click in the Keywords section at the right and type in the keywords you want. If you want more than one to apply to just certain selected images, pick those first and then use a comma between them. i.e., Fireworks, Still-Life, Sparklers.
Keywording an entire folder of images in Lightroom
This entire folder of images were shots of fireworks, so I selected all images in the folder and added the keyword “Fireworks.”
Multiple Keywords in Lightroom for Selected Images
Selecting several images within the folder, I added additional keywords – Still-Life, and Sparklers. You can have multiple keywords for an image if you separate them with a comma.
  • Time to quickly go through your images one-by-one. To move faster through the images, first, turn on Auto-Advance. You can either turn this on by going to Photo in the top pulldown menu and selecting Auto Advance or simply by holding down the Shift key while you work. Now bring up just the first image in Loupe View (Hit the Enter key).
  • For this first pass, you want to flag the images you want to keep and cull out the ones you know you’ll never use. Viewing each image, hit either the “P” key to flag the image as a Pick or “X” key to reject it.
  • If you just can’t decide, the right arrow key “>” to move on.
Flagging images as Picks or Rejects in Lightroom and using Auto Advance to move through them.
To quickly cull your images in Lightroom, turn on Auto Advance and then use the “P” key to flag an image as a Pick, the “X” key to mark it as a Reject, or just use the Right Arrow Key to move to the next image with no flagging. Note the white flags are picks, the black flags with an X are rejects.

Try to be selective here. This does not immediately throw out any images and you can change your mind later. However, your objective ought to be to do some serious housekeeping, X-ing out the images you are unlikely to ever use, and Picking the ones you will probably want to edit later.

Everyone is different. Some people are tidy and have no problem tossing things out they don’t expect to use. Then there are folks like me, packrats for whom this is a tougher task.

Time to be brave. You can check to see which images you flagged with an “X” as rejects if you like. Hit “G” to go back to the Grid view. Now using the Library Filter (top of the grid), click the word “Attribute” and then click the Black flag. This will show the images you flagged as Rejects with the “X.” You can take another look at these if you have to and if you decide it is not one you want to be rejected, hit the “P” key to change it back to a Pick.

Taking out the trash

So let’s get rid of the rejects. To see what you flagged with an “X” as a reject, hit Ctrl- Backspace (Cmd on Mac). You will see two options:

  • Delete from Disk – This will permanently delete the images from your hard drive. You might still find them in your recycle bin if you accidentally pick this, but consider this the trash for the most part.
  • Remove from Lightroom – The files will remain on your drive, but you will no longer see them in Lightroom. This is the safer option if you are unsure, but it’s also like just putting your garbage in the hall closet. If you plan to clean the house, do it and don’t look back.
The warning message will pop up when you are about to delete your rejected photos.
Decision time. After you’ve using the culling step to flag your Picks and Reject images, hit Ctrl-Backspace. This question will appear. You can delete your rejected images entirely or, simply remove them from showing up in Lightroom but retain them on your drive. Choose wisely.

Colors and flags and stars, oh my!

If you were disciplined, using the Pick and Reject options helped you separate the wheat from the chaff, getting rid of things you’ll never use and perhaps freeing up all kinds of space on your hard drives. So now let’s use some tools to go a little deeper, helping you to organize and find images warranting further work.

Lightroom lets you tag photos with several different things to add in organizing, sorting, filtering, and finding them. Let’s look at the options.

  • Sorting – There are many different ways to sort your images in the Library view of Lightroom. This doesn’t change anything but simply allows you to see them in whatever sort order you like. Some are obvious, like sorting by Capture time so you can see the images in the order you took them. Others, like sorting by aspect ratio, are less obvious but sometimes very useful. Say you need an image for a magazine cover and want a portrait-orientation image. Sorting by aspect ratio is the ticket. Explore what this very simple option can do for you.
Finding photos with Lightroom - sorting by aspect ratio
Using the Sort by Aspect Ratio option can be handy if you want to group your portrait and landscape orientation images together.
  • Color – You can flag your photos with any of five different colors (Red, Yellow, Green, Blue or Purple). What each color signifies is strictly up to you. Maybe you want to flag all of your very best images with Red, your Landscapes with Green, your images you want to edit with Yellow – whatever you like. To flag an image, click on the image(s) you want that color applied to, then click on the color patch you want to apply that color tag to. You can also use the keyboard shortcuts – 6-Red, 7-Yellow, 8-Green, 9-Blue. There is no number shortcut for Purple.
Finding photos with Lightroom - Sort by Color
If you’ve used color codes to identify different photo types, sorting by color can be useful.
  • Star Rating – How to apply a star rating is easy. When on an image, just click the number key for the rating you want to assign or use the star symbol on the toolbar at the bottom. What a certain rating means…that’s your call. Is a 5-star image your best ever? Is a 1-star image one that barely escaped deletion? What does a 3-Star rating mean? Whatever you come up with, be consistent and the rating system will be more useful.
Finding photos with Lightroom
Come up with your own scheme of using the star-rating in Lightroom and then sort by rating.
  • Flags – We already discussed flags earlier. Basically, they are a way to mark an image as a pick or a reject. Use several or none. You can use these tagging tools singularly or in combination, depending on how you choose to mark up your images. For example, a really great landscape photo might be a green, 4-star, flagged as a Pick image. The power comes in how once marked up, you can filter and sort your images.

Finding, filtering, and sorting

So you’ve cleaned up your folders, eliminated the rejects, and flagged your images with color codes, star ratings, and perhaps added some keywords. (We didn’t get into keywording much as that can be an art unto itself. I refer you to this article to learn more about the power of this tool).

Now we want to use this organization to help us find all our best lighthouse images taken in the past three years, for example. If we were good about marking up our images, we might have put the keyword “lighthouse” on them, flagged them with red (which we decided were our best photos), or maybe just made our top images 5-star.

How do we use the markups to find what we seek?

Use Lightroom to find photos with ratings, color codes, and keywords.
Creative use of the Library filter in Lightroom can bring up just the image you’re looking for if you’ve properly labeled your images with star ratings, pick flags, color codes and keywords. Here, I was looking for all my photos that had the keyword Lighthouse, were 4-star images, and color-coded red.

The better you are at marking-up your images, the greater the degree of precision you will have in finding that needle in a haystack when it comes time for that. I personally have over 100,000 images in my Lightroom catalog. (That’s a big haystack!) So, to use Lightroom to find photos requires some creativity with the Library filtering tool.

You will be able to search through basic things you may have added; keywords, file names, folder names or anyplace else where text might be. You can search your Attributes, the star ratings, color codes, flags.

Another very powerful Attribute is being able to search for unedited photos. Note the filter selection in the image below. Using that icon, I can have Lightroom show all photos for which Lightroom has no edit history.

If I bring up a folder with images that were edited elsewhere before coming into Lightroom, they will also show up as unedited. But, assuming this is a folder with images that have been brought in directly off your camera card and never been touched with anything other than Lightroom, this is a fantastic way to show those “passed over nuggets” we might want to revisit.

Use Lightroom to find photos.  Need to see all the images in your Library you've not edited?  Easy with the Lightroom Library filter.
Using the Library filter, I’m able to see all the images for a particular year shot with my Canon 6D that are unedited by Lightroom. Creative use of the Text, Attribute, and Metadata filter in the Library Filter function of Lightroom can tell you much about your images and help you find that missing needle in the haystack.

Searching through metadata can also be a powerful way to find photos. Without you even having to enter any information, your camera captures a wealth of data about each image it takes. (Have a look at my article on Irfanview which gets into metadata.)

So, say you’re still looking for those lighthouse photos, but you never put keywords on them. Searching for “lighthouse” isn’t going to help. But say you do know you took the photos on a trip in September of 2017 and shot them with your Canon 6D. Putting just that information into the search filter in the Library module should greatly reduce the size of the “haystack.”

The more precise you can be with your search parameters, the more precise your search will be. Explore all the search options in the Text, Attribute, and Metadata areas and how using them in combination can greatly help you find what you seek.

Become a Collector

Using the Library filter is a great way to search through your photos when you’re looking for something, particularly an ad hoc search for something you don’t need to find often. When you really want to tap the power of the database that is Lightroom, Smart Collections are really cool. First, let’s describe what a Lightroom collection is.

Say you like to take pictures of flowers. Even when you’re out on some other kind of shoot, when you see a nice flower, you take a shot. Thus, you have flower pictures scattered throughout your folders. Now, how would it be to see all of those in one place, without having to move, copy, or duplicate anything? That’s what a Lightroom collection can be, a “pointer” to images that groups them all into one “folder” without moving anything.

There are two kinds of collections in Lightroom.

The first is a regular collection. You can add the photos manually. You can drag them from their folder location to a collection you have set up. Alternatively, if you designate a collection as the “Target collection,” while viewing that image in the Library module, you can just hit the “B” key on your keyboard to add the image to the target collection. You can also select multiple images in the Library module, hit the “B” key to add them all to the target collection.

Remember that nothing really moves, no duplicates get made, no additional drive space is needed. Collections are virtual – only pointers to the original files.

Collections can be very handy. When I’m gathering photos for an article, I will often create a Lightroom collection with the title of the article, make it the target collection, and then as I prowl through my library looking for photos I might want to use, I hit the “B” key on the keyboard and they are added to the collection. Fantastic!

Be a Smarter Collector

Collections are a great tool, but we can go a step further.

Let’s go back to our flower photos example. If I took some flower shots every time I did a shoot, I want them to automatically show up in my Best Flowers collection without any additional work on my part? A smart collection uses filters and conditions like the Library filter but runs continuously in the background.

To set up a new Smart Collection, go to the Collections tab in the panel on the left side of Lightroom. Click the + symbol. Select Create a Smart Collection. Then use the controls in that menu to set up the parameters defining what will be selected.

So, if I set up a smart collection, name it “Best Flowers” and use the parameters where, for example, keywords contained “flowers” and the rating was 3-stars or above, any photo added meeting those conditions automatically appear in that smart collection without any additional work by me. Once built, your smart collections just work silently in the background of Lightroom. (I would just have to remember to be diligent about rating and keywording my flower photos each time I had some new ones brought in.)

Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting
Once you set up the parameters for a Smart Filter in Lightroom, it will watch for any images that meet those qualifications and add them to the collection. Here, I have a filter that looks for photos with the keyword “Flowers” that are rated 4-stars or higher. Now, if I’m good about rating and keywording my flowers photos as I take them and import them into Lightroom, they will automatically be added to this collection

Another great use for a smart collection – make one to show all your unedited photos, wherever they might be in your library.

Set your smart collection parameters to something like my example below. It has the Has edits set to False, the camera as the one I’m interested in, my Canon EOS 6D, the File Type Raw, and the Pick Flag is on.

Now, unedited images I’ve flagged as Picks will immediately show up here as soon as I imported them in Lightroom. As I edit them, they will fall off this list. Think of this kind of Smart collection as your “In Box” of photos for editing.

I can also use the other tools and filters we’ve discussed to determine if I will keep them at all. I can do additional culling here if I decide I won’t edit them and perhaps delete them.

Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting
Use a Lightroom Smart Collection to act as your “In Box” telling you which photos need editing. I’ve set this Smart filter to add photos that are not edited (Has Edits is False), where the file type is Raw, I’ve flagged the photo as a Pick, and the photos were taken with my Canon 6D. Smart Collections can be very powerful and the beauty is, as collections are strictly virtual, there’s no need for additional copies, folders, or duplicates that would take up more drive space.

Also, remember images in a collection are just pointers to the original files. So if you click on an image in a collection and open it in the Edit module to make changes, you are also editing the photo in the folder where it really lives.

Polishing up the diamonds

When you can’t be out taking more photos, a good use of your time might be to use Lightroom to find photos worth revisiting.

I’m betting that you’ve passed over many diamonds in the rough, and a trip back through the mine that is your photo library will yield some yet undiscovered treasures. Happy prospecting. For now, stay home, be well, and “Live long and prosper.”

The post Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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Interview: Dirk Dallas of ‘From Where I Drone’ shares what it takes to create excellent photos

27 May

Interview: Dirk Dallas of From Where I Drone shares what it takes to create excellent photographs

Anyone can curate photos, but not many have built a successful brand out of it. Dirk Dallas has dedicated thousands of hours to From Where I Drone (FWID), a website and online community that aggregates aerial images from all over the world. FWID has made such a profound impact, with its 266,000 active followers and counting, that Dallas was approached by an established publisher to create a book.

He is also a professor, photographer and ambassador for top brands including PolarPro, an instructor for Adorama TV and a judge for competitions including the Paris Aerial Photography Awards. Dallas credits DPReview for guidance at the start of his journey, saying:

‘DPReview was of the sites I remember always checking when I was going to look up my first camera. I would read all the reviews, there were hi-res photos and I would zoom in to examine more details. You were one of the first sites to feature photos where I could do that and actually see the product clearly.’

We got a chance to catch up and learn more about the steps he took to build a robust online community, his thoughts on what makes a photo stand out in a sea of millions and his new book Eyes Over the World: The Most Spectacular Drone Photography — featuring 20 of his images plus 170 more from 125 aerial photographers seen on FWID. Anyone looking to improve their skills, or simply be inspired, is encouraged to read on.

All slideshow images appear in the book and are shared with permission from Dallas and the publisher.

Tell us a bit more about your background. How did you get started in photography?

Right before I went to college, I was really into video. I wasn’t a great skateboarder but my buddies were. I remember my grandpa had a Hi8 camera and I asked him if I could borrow it to make skate videos. I was using Windows Movie Maker in the process and I loved it.

I never thought of it as a career, though. My parents are all teachers so I thought ‘I’m just going to be a teacher, it’s a safe job. I’ll never have to worry about getting fired, teachers will always be around.’ At the time my girlfriend, who is now my wife, knew I wasn’t really into what I was studying in school. She told me ‘I’d rather have you do something that you love than have a super-safe job that you hate.’

That was a big moment of freedom for me. I didn’t know what my career was going to look like but I knew I was interested in video. I changed schools and started taking an editing class. They handed us cameras, I think I got a Canon XL and started in with that.

Fast-forward to 2007, I got the iPhone when it came out. I remember thinking ‘this thing’s pretty impressive for a camera phone.’ I decided to start taking a picture every day and practice my eye for composition. This was purely for video reasons, not for photography.

A screenshot of the iPhone photography group Dallas was a part of on Flickr.

Then I started getting into photography and I uploaded my work to Flickr. That is where I found a community for iPhone Photography which, at the time, was really weird to outsiders. I would share my iPhone shots to other groups and people would tell me ‘that’s not real photography. You’re not using a real camera.’ Our group was definitely niche and we felt like a band of rebels that were trying to push the camera as far as we could.

What’s interesting about that is now it’s not weird at all to take a good photo with your phone. You even see Apple put ‘Shot on iPhone’ on their billboards. But I remember getting made fun of for that on Flickr at first. I got really into photography and that same iPhone Photography community introduced me to Instagram when it first came out. I was one of the first 5,000 users and the community there is what inspired me to keep pursuing photography.

What inspired you to move into aerial photography, particularly drones?

To be honest with you, in 2014 I was getting tired of my photography. I could go to the beach and take a picture of a pier which I’d already done a thousand times. I was getting burned out, losing the spark. The fun disappeared. I knew I needed to mix things up. I remember seeing someone fly a Phantom drone with a GoPro attached to it and was instantly intrigued.

In the 2000s, I was into flying electric helicopters and airplanes. They’re so hard to fly, I’d always crash and barely be able to get any flight time. I’d spend a bunch of time and money fixing them. The drone looked like it was pretty stable and it had a camera on it – two things I enjoy. So I got a Phantom and stuck a GoPro on it. I could now shoot all the spots that I go to and was tired of, like the pier, from a new perspective.

It was a new challenge, especially since the early days of drone photography were so hard. I would set the GoPro on timelapse mode and then guess. I would fly over something and count in my head, because the intervals were 5 seconds and then think ‘all right, I got the shot.’ But I wouldn’t know until I got home and watched the footage from the memory card.

The challenge of something new, combining my two loves, is how I got into aerial photography.

What’s the craziest thing that’s ever happened to you while flying?

In Chicago, I was flying at a park and I remember drones weren’t really common yet. You didn’t really them often. Someone approached me while I was flying and started asking me questions. I’m answering them and in the meantime, they also have a dog that’s running circles around us. I completely lost track of the time and realized that while I’m talking to this guy, my drone’s in the air and about to land any minute.

I start looking for it because it drifted away during the flight. I located it as it’s losing power and going straight into these trees. It gets stuck in one about 30 feet up. I could see it but couldn’t climb the tree to get it. What made the situation even more difficult is that my flight to California was leaving in 4 hours. I’m was quickly running out of time.

I found these guys playing football. I approached them and said ‘guys, I will give you $ 100 if you can help me get my drone down. Maybe we could throw the football at it and knock it out of the tree.’ They looked at me as though I was crazy and one of the guys threw his football at it and misses. They tried for 30 minutes and finally knocked it down. It smashed to the ground but everything ended up still working.

Why did you launch FWID?

In 2014, I started to share my work on Instagram and people were asking how I got these unique (at the time) angles. I would tell them it was from a drone and then they’d ask how they could get one, and so on. I would be helping everyone through messaging and emails. I realized, early on, that the same questions were being asked so maybe I should just start a website. I could send everyone seeking answers to the same questions there.

I couldn’t find anything else like it. No one was really helping people. There were some super-techie questions in there but I’m more creative. Still, I shared tips, and what I was learning along the way with the goal to help people. Then I started sharing stuff from the community.

Before FWID was a website, it was a hashtag – and it was a joke.

Before FWID was a website, it was a hashtag – and it was a joke. There’s that popular hashtag ‘#fromwhereistand,’ and I thought of that except I was taking a photo with a drone. So I tagged it and people immediately got the joke. One day I clicked on it and there were a bunch of photos from people with drones. I realized back then that more people had a drone than I was aware of.

None of my immediate friends were flying drones so it was great for me to see all these people using them and capturing places in ways I’d never seen before. I started an Instagram account for it, just to share photos. That’s where I got all the messages at first and then started the website to point people to for answers.

You’ve created a substantial online presence. Do you have any tips for community building?

Community building is really important to me, in general. I’m also a professor teaching photography, motion design, and graphic design. I spend a lot of time during my semesters building those communities because I’ve seen the value of how it pushes us, functions as a support system, and keeps us accountable.

In some ways that’s translated online. Everybody matters, in my opinion. In the early days, it was so easy to give comments to people, check out feeds, message people, and reply. It would take forever but it mattered to me because there was someone out there reaching out and I would reach back. I think those small gestures went a long way.

One of the things going for FWID is consistency (Dirk took a brief hiatus from posting late last year). I showed up everyday for 2 posts, or a minimum of 1 post, at least, for 4 years. Everybody’s striving for perfection, but it’s not obtainable. I would encourage people to strive for consistency. How are you improving every day?

The fact that FWID showed up almost every single day with something new in the feed made it top-of-mind for a steadily growing audience. Once you know you’ll see it, you come to expect it. People ask me why I post at 9:00 PM every night (PST). I would get my kids to bed, finish our routine. The night was done so then I could post. That’s my habit, that’s my routine.

I spend a lot of time finding photos. My book hadn’t come out yet as I’m telling you this but someone, when they discovered all the photos in there weren’t mine, emailed me and said ‘these aren’t all your photos? Anyone can curate a photo book.’ I had to laugh because I spend so much time seeking out an epic image, something inspiring or unique, something you’ve never seen before. The point is, I put a lot of work into it and don’t post anything random.

There needs to be something of value or people are going to stop showing up. For people reading this, ask yourself ‘what is the value I’m giving people?’ For me, for FWID, the value is inspiration. As soon as that’s lost, FWID will go down. There’s a lot of pressure with that realization.

For example, with Nike, when we think of that logo, it’s actually kind of lame. What makes it so cool is you associate it with Michael Jordan. You associate it with Kobe Bryant. Because those people do amazing things, that’s what makes the brand recognizable. Because the people in the FWID community are incredible, I’m able to share their work and grow.

I’m great at promoting other people’s stuff, by not my own if I’m being honest. It’s not natural to me. Sometimes I feel late to the game or that I should be doing some stuff sooner. This is because I want to help others, that’s my goal. Not everyone’s going to make it onto the feed. And I feel bad because I don’t want to leave anyone out. This is what’s great about Stories. If you tag me with something that’s great, I’ll feature you there and you’ll get tons of views on your work that way.

You have well over 1 million photos to choose from in the FWID community. What is it about a photo that stands out to you enough to make worth featuring?

One of the things I try to do is look for a clear subject. There’s got to be a point, what am I looking at? For example, in the photo below, there’s a person standing next tot the boat and I’m thinking ‘wow, they’re in the middle of nowhere. How did they get there, they’re all alone, and where are they going?’ There’s all these questions that start to pop up.

What they also did is introduce scale. What I’m looking for is some basic photography principles. Scale is one of the biggest things that draws me in. This one (below) interests me because when do you ever see a stadium in the shape of a circle? I’ve never seen one. I always gravitate toward something unique. The lightest part is the tennis court and it’s in the center, so the composition is very focused. The crop is tight.

Pops of color are always a winner. Contrast is always something I look for too. If I click on the #fromwhereidrone hashtag, images that have a color scheme that isn’t blues or greens, something really typical, tend to stand out. Now I want to check it out and see if the image is sharp and crisp. If so, I’ll bookmark it.

I never really see warm, orange-hued photos. These are rare. Everything I see is typically blue, green, and brown. One things a lot of drone pilots forget about is the photography principles. They get so caught up in taking the drone up high that those are an afterthought. The people who get featured and do well, in general, take everything we know about photography on the ground and apply it in the air.

Those are the strongest images to me. A great edit. Light is important for creating atmosphere. If you shot this image (below) 2 hours before, it wouldn’t be interesting. How is this unique? Is there a little bit of fog or does the light come in at the right time? Being mindful of the time of day makes all the difference. The people who will wait for hours until the lighting is just right, who make that extra effort, are striving for excellence.

The top photographers will make more of an effort, most people don’t. It’s your commitment to striving for excellence that separates you from the rest.

You have a new coffee table book out. Tell us more about it.

I’ll start by saying that being able to connect digitally is awesome. I now have friends through FWID from around the world that I wouldn’t have otherwise known. That said, we’ve lost this sense of touch and tangibility. What I set out to do is put together some of the best photos at the time of when this book started, back in Summer of 2018, put it in your hands, and inspire you.

I’ve seen these photos on the feeds, I’ve looked at them on my computer, in InDesign, and in drafts and proofs. Once I actually touched and held the book, it was magical. What this book does, I believe, is inspire. Right now we’re in lockdown so it feels like a little vacation, a little trip around the world. It’s a bucket list that makes you think ‘I want to go there when this pandemic is done. I want to shoot that place.’

Once I actually touched and held the book, it was magical. What this book does, I believe, is inspire.

The beautiful thing about FWID is the community. I would have never met or known about all these amazing photographers if it wasn’t for an app (Instagram).

The beautiful thing about FWID is the community. I would have never met or known about all these amazing photographers if it wasn’t for an app (Instagram). What this book represents is a community, people with a shared vision. Now the FWID community has something tangible and lasting. I could delete a photo, close the account, go dark, but the book is out. It will live on, it’s an artifact that will be in the world forever.

When I’m on Instagram or anywhere else online, I may like a photo, but I’ll take it in for half a second. As an author and a curator, I’ve had to pause with these photos and really take them in, ponder in that moment. Those are some feelings I didn’t expect, to be honest.

There have already been quite a few drone and aerial photography books released — What makes yours stand out?

For me, it represents the community. I looked at thousands and thousands of photos that I curated over the years and painstakingly whittled it down to what I thought were the best, most unique images. There are some books that put an image in simply because it’s a drone shot. With this book, I considered the question of ‘why does this shot deserve to be included?’

The book is broken down into 5 categories (Water, Arid, Lush, Urban, and Ice). At the beginning of each category, I wrote photography tips – it’s called ‘Photography Insights.’ For Arid, for example, ‘with extreme temperatures, blowing sand, and broad expanses of land and sky, these landscapes provide challenges to photographers. The drone pilot should be prepared to protect their gear from the elements while being persistently observant. These environments are often devoid of life. It’s crucial to scan the area for compelling subjects to tell a story and give context to a location.’

I give some examples of what you should look for, how to think of capturing lines and curves. I also give some insights on shooting in different climates but I want to make it clear that this is not the focus of the book. Another thing, and I think this makes the book unique, but I’m not entirely sure, is that all 7 continents are represented – including Antarctica.

Were you approached by a publisher or did you pitch this book?

I had been asked 2 times in the past to do a book but I either didn’t know the publisher or it seemed like they were trying to make a buck. Then I got approached by Rizzoli and it just so happened that 3 weeks after I got an email from them, I was going to be in New York where they have an office. I asked if I could meet with them.

My whole motivation for FWID is not to get rich but if I’m going to do something, it has to be done well. I really want it to be something that I can be proud of and can put my name on. COVID has caused some delays. I got my first copy of the book a few weeks ago, even though it was completed in February. That’s not normal. I should have gotten it back then, when it was printed.

I couldn’t start promoting a book until I saw it and held it. It needs to be good. If it’s not, I won’t promote it. I looked at Rizzoli’s work, they produce beautiful books and my editor was really awesome. The collaboration started through an email from them and we decided to collaborate from there.

What photography and drone gear to you use the most?

Drone-wise, I’m shooting a ton with my (DJI) Mavic 2 Pro. I love how small it is, how quick it boots up. That’s a huge thing, it boots up so fast. I also love how quiet it is, that’s a bonus. My next drone that I use is my Phantom 4, but that’s only when I don’t have my phone charged. I hate that I have to use my phone. I know DJI has a Smart Controller but it’s $ 800. I don’t know how I can justify purchasing one.

I use my phone and I hate it on the Mavic so if the phone’s not juiced, I bring my Phantom 4 with a tablet. Also, if I’m shooting during the day, a larger screen is better. For regular photography, I shoot with a Canon 5D Mark IV.

Who are the artists that inspire you the most?

I’m blown away by the work of Costas Spathis. He finds the most unique places, and I ask myself ‘where does this even exist on Earth and how does he find it?’ Another is George Steinmetz. I remember seeing his camel photos for the first time, and I was blown away. The subject wasn’t the camels, it was their shadows and that’s what made me realize what was possible with aerial photography.

Chris Burkard, who did the forward for this book, inspired me years ago when I saw his photos of surfers in the snow. I had never seen anything like that in my life. He challenged me to go for those unexpected moments like people surfing in frigid temperatures around Iceland.

Those are the photographers who have shown me to look at the world in a different way, and to think differently. On a non-photography level, I’m really inspired by Van Gogh. As I continue to learn about his use of symbolism, it becomes clear that for him it’s more than just a painting. Everything had meaning, and you can tell he put so much thought into every decision he made when creating. It makes me want to do things with purpose and excellence.

What tips do you have for people starting out in photography or are looking to improve their skills?

My biggest recommendation is consistency and discipline. So many people think FWID just happened or a print that wins an award or gets featured somewhere big just automatically happens instead of being the result of a lot of work, time, and effort. It takes a lot of failures before you get to a certain level.

One of the things I miss about being a newbie is not caring. I would create something and put it out there. I wouldn’t care because I didn’t know any better. Now that’s disappeared a little bit. I’m cautious, and I ask myself if something is worth sharing or not. It’s good in some ways, bad in others.

If people want to get better, but you don’t have a plan, how are you going to accomplish that? You’re going to be like all those people who make New Year’s resolutions and then a week later, nothing comes out of it.

The point is, when I started taking pictures with my phone, I didn’t care if it was a good photo. I was practicing. I was showing up every day in a discipline, I was in a habit. I made the thing I wanted to get good at a habit. If people want to get better, but you don’t have a plan, how are you going to accomplish that? You’re going to be like all those people who make New Year’s resolutions and then a week later, nothing comes out of it.

You have to be disciplined. You have to have habits. For me, consistency is the biggest factor. Show up, even on the days when you don’t want to, even when you’re tired. Figure out a discipline. For me, that was a photo every day. I don’t know what that means for someone else. The point is, I had a plan and I saw it through.

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Sony ZV-1 ‘content creator camera’ focuses on making vlogging easy

27 May

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Sony has announced the ZV-1, which it calls a content creator camera. It’s built around a 1″-type 20MP stacked CMOS sensor and a 25.5-70mm equiv. F1.8-2.8 lens similar to the on in the RX100 III, IV, V and VA, but it uses a fully articulating touchscreen and reworked ergonomics to allow for selfie-style operation. In essence, the ZV-1 gives you the hardware of an RX100 VA redesigned to make vlogging and facing-the-camera shooting easier.

The ZV-1 includes a number of features and modes intended to make vlogging easier. These build on Sony’s very dependable Eye AF capabilities, to give confidence that your footage will be in focus while you concentrate on talking to your audience. There’s also a directional three-capsule mic setup built into the top of the camera to help isolate what’s being said from ambient noise.

There’s a ‘background defocus’ mode that automatically opens up the aperture to its maximum setting, accessed from a button on the top of the camera, and an AF mode that will prioritize nearby objects if that you hold up in front of the camera, rather than continuing to focus on your face. And there’s also a front-mounted tally light, to indicate when the camera is recording.

The specs are broadly consistent with recent RX100-series models, including 4K UHD video at up to 30p, 1080 capture at up to 120p and high-speed upscaled video at up to 960p. There’s no built-in viewfinder or headphone socket, but the ZV-1 does have a ‘multi-accessory’ hot shoe on which to mount an external mic.

The ZV-1 will be available from early June with a list price of $ 799 (CAD$ 999). In the US there will be a promotion that drops the price to $ 749 if you buy before June 28th. Sony is also discounting its VCT-SGR1 Bluetooth shooting grip if you buy it with the ZV-1, until June 28th in the US and June 25th in Canada. Pricing in the UK and Europe is set at £700 and €800.

Go hands-on with the Sony XV-1Press release

Sony Electronics Introduces the Digital Camera ZV-1, A Newly Designed Camera for Video Content Creators

New Video-Forward Design and Compact Body Packed with Advanced Imaging Technology and Easy-to-Use Functionality

SAN DIEGO – May 26, 2020 –Sony Electronics Inc. today has announced the new pocket-sized digital camera ZV-1 (hereafter referred as “ZV-1”) – a lightweight, compact “all-in-one” style solution. Designed from the ground up for content creators and vloggers, the ZV-1 combines easy-to-use features with uncompromising imaging technology, making this the perfect tool for any content creator at all skill levels.

“Sony’s new ZV-1 was purpose-built to meet the needs and demands of today’s video creators,” said Neal Manowitz, deputy president of Imaging Product and Solutions Americas at Sony Electronics. “We are always listening to our customers, and this camera is the result of direct feedback from our extended community. Featuring an innovative design plus many new technologies, settings and modes, it will allow creators to make content in ways they have never been able to before.”

The ZV-1 features a 1.0-type stacked Exmor RS® CMOS image sensor with DRAM chip and 24-70mm[i] F1.8-2.8 ZEISS® Vario-Sonnar T* large-aperture lens creating beautiful background bokeh (background blur), allowing the subject to stand out from the background. The camera locks on to and tracks subjects with high accuracy and speed using Sony’s leading-edge autofocus system. The ZV-1 also includes the latest-generation BIONZ X™ image processor with front-end LSI delivering high resolution as well as low noise for superior image quality. It also combines this exceptional imaging technology with high-quality and versatile audio options. The ZV-1 is Sony’s first compact camera with a side-opening Vari-angle LCD screen, making it easier to compose your shots in selfie mode while connecting external audio accessories. To meet any video need, the ZV-1 contains advanced video features including 4K movie recording[ii] and in-body image stabilization.

Meeting the Needs of Today’s Content Creators

Quickly Switch Between two modes of Background Bokeh
The ZV-1 offers a simple solution to easily switch between two levels of background bokeh while recording. Using the new Background Defocus function, users can rapidly adjust the optical aperture between more and less background defocusing blur without losing focus on the subject. Located on top of the camera, this Bokeh button is easily accessible and makes selfie shooting operation a breeze.

Focus on the Subject You Want

The ZV-1 makes it easier than ever to shoot product reviews and similar video content. Gone are the days of placing a hand behind an object to prompt the camera to bring it into focus thanks to a new Product Showcase Setting, which allows for quick and smooth focus transitions between the subject’s face and the object placed in front of the lens.

Building on the leading-edge technology developed for ?™ (Alpha brand) and RX series cameras, this new compact camera includes advanced autofocus (AF) allowing it to lock on and track subjects with high accuracy and speed while recording. For maintaining focus on the intended subject or subjects in busy environments, Real-time Eye AF[iii] and Real-time Tracking AF for video allows the ZV-1 to seamlessly switch focus between multiple subjects while controlling the AF speed and tracking sensitivity.

Prioritize Your Face

Extreme changes in lighting, like walking outside on a sunny day and suddenly moving from a bright location into shade, are no problem for the ZV-1 thanks to the new Face Priority autoexposure (AE) function. It detects and prioritizes the subject’s face and adjusts the exposure to ensure the face is depicted at an ideal brightness in any environment. This AE technology also suppresses an abrupt change in exposure if the subject quickly turns away from the frame to eliminate unexpected blown-out or extremely dark shots. In addition, the camera features a new advanced color science that has been re-engineered to optimize skin tones for any subject in both still and video modes.

Crystal Clear Audio

High quality content requires clear, excellent audio quality, and the ZV-1 is well-equipped to produce just that with reliable and versatile audio options. The ZV-1’s onboard mic features Sony’s latest Directional 3-capsule Mic which was designed for forward-directional audio capture, allowing for clear capture of the subject’s voice while minimizing background noise, especially when operating in selfie mode. For added flexibility, the ZV-1 also features an industry standard mic jack (3.5mm) and Multi Interface Shoe™ (MI shoe) making it easy to connect a wide range of external microphones. The ZV-1 is also supplied with a wind screen[iv] accessory that fits on the MI shoe to minimize wind interference.

Design and Functionality Optimized for Vlogging

The ZV-1 was designed with content creators and vloggers in mind. This compact, lightweight (approx. 294g / 105.5mm x 60.0mm x 43.5mm) camera is the first Sony compact camera with a flip-out, tiltable LCD Screen, allowing creators to simplify their setup by utilizing the MI shoe for optional external mics without the need of an additional mounting bracket.

Comfortably operate the ZV-1 with one hand thanks to the easy-to-hold comfortable grip and a large movie REC button located on the top of the camera for quick access to video recording, as well as a recording lamp on the front of the camera that indicates if the camera is actively recording.

The ZV-1 also includes advances in image stabilization, ensuring steady video even when shooting hand-held while walking. When recording in HD (Active mode), optical and electronic stabilization methods are combined to reduce shaking up to 11 times[v] that of standard SteadyShot™ image stabilization. When shooting 4K video using Optical SteadyShot (Active mode), there is improvement in stabilization effect of up to 8 times[vi] that of standard SteadyShot. The ZV-1 is also compatible with the GP-VPT2BT Shooting Grip with Wireless Remote Commander, offering additional stability and comfort combined with cable-free Bluetooth® connectivity.

Class-Leading AV Features

Despite the small form factor there are a multitude of pro-level movie making capabilities, including:

4K movie recording with full pixel readout and no pixel binning in high bit rate XAVC S™ codec. [vii]

  • Industry standard 3.5mm microphone input
  • Hybrid Log-Gamma (HDR) [viii] / S-Gamut3.Cine / S-Log3, S-Gamut3 / S-Log3
  • Interval Shooting[ix] for stunning time-lapse videos[x]
  • Super Slow Motion[xi] recording at up to 960fps[xii]
  • Compatibility with ‘Movie Edit add-on[xiii]’ from the “Imaging Edge™” mobile application for image stabilization while editing[xiv] Highlight ability to edit aspect ratios for IG etc.

Live Streaming with the ZV-1

Transform the ZV-1 into a webcam by connecting it to a PC[xv] via USB, which allows content creators to interact with their followers in real-time while also utilizing the advanced imaging technology and unique features of the ZV-1. Sony’s new PC software will be available in July 2020.

New Vlogger Accessories Kit

Sony will also be introducing a Vlogger Kit (ACCVC1), which includes a GP-VPT2BT Shooting Grip with Wireless Remote Commander and 64GB Ultra High Speed Media Card. The grip is compatible with a variety of Sony cameras[xvi].

Pair this kit with an external microphone (sold separately), such as Sony’s Stereo Microphone (ECM-XYST1M), for a convenient and simple vlogging setup.

Pricing and Availability

The Digital Camera ZV-1 will be available in June 2020 for a special introductory price of approximately $ 749 USD through June 28, 2020. After that, the price will increase to approximately $ 799 USD. The ZV-1 will be available in Canada for approximately $ 999 CAD.

The ACCVC1 Vlogger Kit will be available in June 2020 with a special introductory offer of $ 50 off when purchased together with ZV-1 (at participating retailers) through June 28, 2020 in U.S. and June 25, 2020 in Canada, and can be purchased separately for approximately $ 149 USD and $ 199 CAD.

[i]Angle of view (35mm format equivalent)

[ii] 4K (QFHD: 3840×2160) Extended continuous video recording is available when setting Auto Power OFF Temp. function to High

[iii] Real-time Eye AF for animals is not available movie shooting

[iv] Audio input itself is via the camera’s internal mic but attaching the wind screen to the mic suppresses wind noise

[v] Image stabilization angle at the wide-angle end of the zoom range. When active mode is on. Relative to angle of view with optical image stabilization on standard mode.

[vi] Image stabilization angle at the wide-angle end of the zoom range. When active mode is on. Relative to angle of view with optical image stabilization on standard mode.

[vii] A Class 10 or higher SDHC/SDXC memory card is required to record movies in the XAVC S format. UHS-I (U3) SDHC/SDXC card is required for 100Mbps

[viii] Connect this product to an HDR (HLG) compatible Sony TV via a USB cable to display HDR (HLG) movies

[ix] Wi-Fi is not operational during interval shooting

[x] Time-lapse movie creation is possible on a PC

[xi] Audio recording is not available. A Class 10 or higher SDHC/SDXC memory card is required

[xii] In NTSC mode. Menu allows switching between NTSC and PAL modes

[xiii] Please use the latest version

[xiv] Availability of video transfer and playback varies depending on smartphone in use. Membership to Imaging Edge account and app on smartphone required with connection to Wi-Fi. See Imaging Edge terms and conditions/privacy policy for details.

[xv] Windows® 10

[xvi] Compatible with RX100 VII, Alpha 6100, Alpha 6400, Alpha 6600, Alpha 7 III, Alpha 7R III, Alpha 7R IV, Alpha 9, Alpha 9 II. Firmware must be updated on camera to ensure compatibility.

Sony ZV-1 specifications

Price
MSRP $ 800/£700/€800
Body type
Body type Compact
Body material Aluminum/composite
Sensor
Max resolution 5472 x 3648
Image ratio w:h 1:1, 4:3, 3:2, 16:9
Effective pixels 20 megapixels
Sensor photo detectors 21 megapixels
Sensor size 1″ (13.2 x 8.8 mm)
Sensor type BSI-CMOS
Processor Bionz X
Color space sRGB, AdobeRGB
Color filter array Primary color filter
Image
ISO Auto, 125-12800
Boosted ISO (minimum) 80
Boosted ISO (maximum) 25600
White balance presets 9
Custom white balance Yes
Image stabilization Optical
Uncompressed format RAW
JPEG quality levels Extra fine, fine, standard
File format
  • JPEG (Exif v2.3, DCF v2.0)
  • Raw (Sony ARW v2.3)
Optics & Focus
Focal length (equiv.) 24–70 mm
Optical zoom 2.9×
Maximum aperture F1.8–2.8
Autofocus
  • Contrast Detect (sensor)
  • Phase Detect
  • Multi-area
  • Center
  • Selective single-point
  • Tracking
  • Single
  • Continuous
  • Touch
  • Face Detection
  • Live View
Autofocus assist lamp Yes
Digital zoom Yes (3.8x)
Manual focus Yes
Normal focus range 5 cm (1.97)
Macro focus range 5 cm (1.97)
Number of focus points 315
Screen / viewfinder
Articulated LCD Fully articulated
Screen size 3
Screen dots 921,600
Touch screen Yes
Screen type TFT LCD
Live view Yes
Viewfinder type None
Photography features
Minimum shutter speed 30 sec
Maximum shutter speed 1/2000 sec
Maximum shutter speed (electronic) 1/32000 sec
Exposure modes
  • Auto
  • Program Auto
  • Aperture Priority
  • Shutter Priority
  • Manual Exposure
Scene modes
  • Portrait
  • Sports Action
  • Macro
  • Landscape
  • Sunset
  • Night Scene
  • Handheld Twilight
  • Night Portrait
  • Anti Motion Blur
  • Pet Mode
  • Gourmet
  • Fireworks
  • High Sensitivity
Built-in flash No
External flash No
Flash modes Auto, Flash On, Slow Synchro, Rear Sync, Flash Off
Continuous drive 24.0 fps
Self-timer Yes
Metering modes
  • Multi
  • Center-weighted
  • Highlight-weighted
  • Average
  • Spot
Exposure compensation ±3 (at 1/3 EV steps)
AE Bracketing ±3 (3 frames at 1/3 EV steps)
WB Bracketing Yes
Videography features
Format MPEG-4, AVCHD, XAVC S
Modes
  • 3840 x 2160 @ 30p / 100 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 3840 x 2160 @ 30p / 60 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 3840 x 2160 @ 25p / 100 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 3840 x 2160 @ 25p / 60 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 3840 x 2160 @ 24p / 100 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 3840 x 2160 @ 24p / 60 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 120p / 100 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 120p / 60 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 100p / 100 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 100p / 60 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 60p / 50 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 60p / 28 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 60p / 28 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 60i / 24 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 60i / 17 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 50p / 50 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 50p / 28 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 30p / 50 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 30p / 16 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 25p / 50 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 25p / 16 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 24p / 50 Mbps, XAVC S, MP4, H.264, Linear PCM
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 24p / 24 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital
  • 1920 x 1080 @ 24p / 17 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital
  • 1280 x 720 @ 30p / 6 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
  • 1280 x 720 @ 25p / 6 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
Microphone Stereo
Speaker Mono
Storage
Storage types SD/ SDHC/SDXC, Memory Stick Pro Duo/ Pro-HG Duo
Connectivity
USB USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)
USB charging Yes
HDMI Yes (micro-HDMI)
Microphone port Yes
Headphone port No
Wireless Built-In
Wireless notes 802.11ac + Bluetooth
Remote control Yes (wired or smartphone)
Physical
Environmentally sealed No
Battery Battery Pack
Battery description NP-BX1 lithium-ion battery & USB charger
Battery Life (CIPA) 260
Weight (inc. batteries) 294 g (0.65 lb / 10.37 oz)
Dimensions 105 x 60 x 44 mm (4.13 x 2.36 x 1.73)
Other features
Orientation sensor Yes
Timelapse recording Yes
GPS None

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Z-CAM’s new E2-M4 is an affordable 4K Raw-shooting cinema camera with livestreaming

27 May

Chinese cinema camera manufacturer Z-Cam has revealed it’s releasing a lower-cost version of its E2 camera that seems to lack only multi-cam synchronization from the previous model but which will allow live-streaming without a computer and will cost about $ 500 less.

The Z-Cam E2-M4 has much of the same spec as the Z-Cam E2, including the ability to record Raw footage to an external recorder, a claimed 13-stops of dynamic range and 4K video (3840×1620 pixels) at 160fps with 10-bit color.

The Z-Cam website suggests the E2-M4 doesn’t offer Apple ProRes recording, but the product page claims that it does once loaded with the latest firmware and connected to an Atomos Ninja V. Recording in Z-Raw is listed though. BH also says a future update will allow the camera to support RTMP, RTPS and SRT live-streaming directly from the camera without requiring a computer. live-streaming is also supported via the camera’s Gigabit Ethernet port, which can be used to control the camera remotely.

The Z-Cam E2-M4 uses the same Four Thirds sensor format as the E2, and of course takes a range of compatible Micro Four Thirds lenses — though not all. The Z-Cam E2-M4 costs $ 1499 and is currently available to pre-order from B&H. For more information see the Z-Cam website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPReview TV: A quick hands-on look at the Sony ZV-1 vlogging camera

26 May

Sony just announced the ZV-1, a modified version of the RX100 series aimed specifically at vloggers. We take a look at six important features you may have missed from the announcement.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

  • Introduction
  • Built-in microphone
  • Sony 'real time' autofocus
  • Audio monitoring
  • Recording time limits
  • Color profile tweaks
  • Image stabilization
  • See you soon!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home

26 May

The post Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

dps-finding-beautiful-portrait-light-at-home

It can be tempting to think that you need lots of money, space, and equipment to shoot great portraits. But using just your camera and a reflector, you can find beautiful portrait light at home to shoot in.

Almost everyone will have at least one room in their home with natural light from a window that could make a great portrait. It’s just a case of figuring out where the best light in your home is. Sometimes this takes a little trial and error, but as long as you get a good grasp of the basics, you should be able to shoot some great portraits at home!

Open up your aperture

Shooting indoors often means less light than if you were shooting outside or with studio strobes. To get some more light into your camera, try opening up your aperture and setting it to the lowest number possible.

Opening your aperture up to let more light into your camera also has the effect of creating a shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field has real advantages when you’re shooting at home – it can blur out the background and any unwanted clutter.

portrait light at home
ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/320th sec

Alternatively, if you need to place your subject right next to a wall that isn’t as great a background as you hoped for (like above), try hanging a large sheet of paper behind them. The result would be like going to a studio with a paper backdrop. Or if you fancy something completely different, try creating a more creative backdrop!

Get your subject to turn their face towards the light to make it fall in a very flattering way that illuminates their features. If you turn their face slightly back towards you then you can create the classic “Rembrandt light” that fine art photographers love so much (just turn their face towards you enough to create a “triangle” of light on the side of their face away from the window).

By just changing the way your subject faces, you should be able to experiment with broad and short lighting with just a single window. If you have a patient subject, then a single window and a model can be a great way to learn about new kinds of lighting while finding lovely portrait light at home.

Shoot in the bathroom

I’m not even messing about. Bathrooms often have incredible light because of all the white, reflective surfaces. Even a bathroom with a small window can have lots of light bouncing about just waiting for you to photograph it.

portrait light at home
ISO800, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/1100th sec

If you want to fill in some shadows, or even add a bit more directional light, you can experiment with using a reflector. You can use the silver side to add a bright, directional light in a room like this by bouncing light into the brighter side of the face. Alternatively, you could use the white side of a reflector to just gently lift any shadows that you get, to make the light more even.

Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home
ISO1600, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/3000th sec

Don’t be afraid to push up your ISO either if you want to capture a fast-moving or unpredictable subject like a pet. Most modern digital cameras can now go quite high with the ISO without seeing any problems in the images.

I shot the images above at ISO 1600, with an extremely fast shutter speed as my cat zipped around the house from dark to light spots. I had the camera set to Aperture Priority mode, so the camera chose its shutter speeds. Aperture Priority mode is a great choice for shooting portraits indoors because it lets you make creative choices about aperture and depth of field without having to worry about shutter speed.

Experiment with the time of day

As the sun moves, the light will change in different parts of your house. Make it your mission to observe and try out the light as it changes throughout the day if you want to find the good spots for beautiful portrait light at home.

Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home
Left: ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/280th sec
Right: ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/2000th sec

I took both of the above shots in the same room, sitting in almost exactly the same place. The difference was the time of day. The shot on the right with the hard light was taken in the bright morning light. In comparison, I took the image on the left in the afternoon when the sun had stopped shining directly into the room.

portrait light at home

Patches of light and shadow can make for really interesting photographs as you let them play across the face or body of your subject. Be sure to experiment with how they create different effects both in the photographs themselves and when you post-process them afterward (increasing the contrast can work really well for light like this).

Use what you have

When I first moved into my home with its large room designated as my studio, I shot almost exclusively with strobes. I would shut out all of the natural light so that I could concentrate on just using my studio lights. I hadn’t even considered that I might have beautiful portrait light at home.

portrait light at home
ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/240th sec

One day, though, I just wanted to grab a quick self-portrait. So I opened the curtains and photographed myself in the morning light.

On inspecting the files later, I discovered that this light was unexpectedly beautiful. Now I shoot regularly sat face-on to this big window in my studio with no additional lighting or reflectors because I discovered it was simply wonderful light.

Learn from my mistake – test out every window in your house for portraits, at different times of the day.

When you move into a new home, make it one of the first things that you do. Don’t wait several years to realize that you already have wonderful natural portrait light at home!

I’d love to see your portraits using the natural light in your home. Please share them with us in the comments section!

The post Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


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Hands-on with the Sony ZV-1

26 May

A creative concept?

The Sony ZV-1 is a new compact camera explicitly designed with vloggers and ‘content creators’ in mind.

From a hardware perspective it’s essentially an updated riff on the RX100 V(A), but with both ergonomic and feature changes to make it easier to operate from the ‘wrong’ side of the lens. As the distinct naming indicates; it’s not part of, nor intended as a replacement for, the RX100 series.

If you think of yourself as primarily a photographer, the ZV-1 is probably not designed for you. Instead it’s a camera purpose-designed for generating to-camera video for platforms such as YouTube. But that doesn’t mean it’s just a frivolous novelty.

Compared to RX100 V(A)

At its heart, the hardware of of the ZV-1 overlaps a lot with the RX100 series. It takes the 24-70mm equivalent F1.8-2.8 zoom and 1″-type 20MP stacked CMOS sensor from the RX100 V but mates it with the autofocus improvements of the Mark VII.

However, the controls and handling are quite different, with no control ring around the lens and a very different button arrangement, designed for a very different way of working.

It’s worth noting that, unlike the RX100 series, Sony isn’t using its ‘Cyber-shot’ branding on this camera, and that the official model name is DCZV-1, rather than ‘DSC,’ denoting digital stills camera.

It continues to use the same NP-BX1 battery as the RX100 cameras.

Video capabilities

The ZV-1’s video capabilities are very similar to those of the RX100 VII: it can shoot 1080p footage at up to 120p or UHD 4K footage at up to 30p. There are also high-speed modes shot at lower resolution and upscaled, allowing capture at up to 960 fps (1000 fps in PAL mode).

Like other recent Sony consumer cameras, all this footage is 8-bit. Log and ‘HLG’ modes are available, but will offer less flexibility than 10-bit footage would. Sony tells us it can also record video for longer (which we’ll get to later).

The other improvement that comes from using the RX100 VII’s processor is that the ZV-1 can apply digital image stabilization to its 4K footage, on top of the IS provided by the lens. The camera can also write shake information into the metadata, so that the Imaging Edge software can apply digital correction after the footage has been shot.

Back-to-front ergonomics

The first thing you’re likely to notice about the ZV-1 are its unconventional ergonomics. There’s a large dedicated [REC] button that sits immediately behind the shutter button. The significance of its size and position isn’t necessarily obvious until position the camera facing towards you, held at arms-length with your left hand.

It’s designed to be operated with the index finger of your left hand, while the zoom rocker is controlled with your left thumb.

Face the audience

Its focus on creator-to-camera content means the ZV-1 has no built-in viewfinder: after all, there’s no point including an expensive component if you can’t see it.

Instead it has a fully articulated touchscreen LCD, to make it easy to operate when it’s pointing towards you. As you’d expect, this display shows a mirror image of what the sensor is capturing, when faced toward you.

The touchscreen lets the user tap-to-track but like many recent Sony cameras, has very little other function.

Ports

All the ports are arranged on the right-hand side of the camera (left-hand side as it faces you), meaning that they’re on the opposite side from the articulating screen.

These include a mic socket, HDMI out and USB connector, over which the camera can be powered, while recording. Crucially, these can all be used without clashing with the flip-out screen.

Upgraded microphones

The lack of viewfinder frees up space for a comparatively complex three-capsule microphone, set into the top of the camera. Sony says this setup is designed to be directional to pick up the sound of someone in front of the camera,

The camera comes with a wind screen (often referred to as a deadcat, though this one looks more like a deadmouse) that can be attached to the top of the microphone recess, to reduce the risk of wind boom from air blowing directly onto the mic. The deadcat attaches via the hotshoe, which means it can’t be used with anything like an external LED light.

The deadcat covers the power button, which doubles as the charging indicator, which makes it hard to see.

The ZV-1 also has an offset hotshoe on one side of the camera, allowing a shotgun mic to be fitted. It’s got all the pins of Sony’s Multi-Interface shoe, meaning it can be used with a host of accessories, including microphones or, theoretically, Sony’s XLR adapter.

Face focused AF

Critically, the ZV-1 features the latest version of Sony’s AF system. This will focus on whatever you tap to focus on, and will use its face and eye detection system if that thing happens to be a face. The AF system will continue to track the subject, even if they look away from the camera and their eyes and face can’t be recognized.

That persistence is especially important for this kind of product, where you can’t afford for the camera to lose track of your face, and you’re usually going to be too busy to monitor or correct any errors.

Face Priority AE

The ZV-1 has a series of designed-for-vlogging features, to make it easy to get the desired result, with minimal interaction with the camera or its settings.

The most basic of these is Face Priority Auto Exposure. This does exactly what you might expect: it ties the camera’s metering to the face detection system, and prioritizes the exposure of the presenter’s face over the metering of the scene as a whole. It’s designed to respond rapidly to changes in exposure so that faces remain correctly exposed even if the light changes.

Sony also says its adjusted the camera’s color response in the ‘Standard’ Creative Style with a particular focus on making (a variety of) skin tones look more attractive.

Background defocus mode

Sony is keen to stress that Background Defocus mode is not a filter or a shallow depth-of-field simulation. Instead it’s a mode that automatically opens the aperture up to its widest setting, to give as shallow a depth-of-field as possible.

It’s a one-click option that means vloggers don’t have to learn to think in terms of aperture values. And, because the camera knows its target is the widest aperture setting, it’s able to respond almost instantly: adjusting the ISO and ND filter to compensate for the change in aperture, rather than slowly progressing through all the steps in between.

By default, Background Defocus mode is assigned to the ‘C1’ button on the camera’s front right corner, making it easily accessible if you’re shooting with the camera held at arm’s length with your left hand.

Product showcase mode

Perhaps the feature that makes this camera’s intent most clear is the ‘Product Showcase’ mode. This is designed for creating the kind of video in which you talk to camera and hold up the item you’re describing, to show some detail of it.

Product Showcase mode is designed to prioritize things that appear near the camera and override the face detection when they do. This means you don’t have to hide your face or wait for the camera to refocus on the object you’re trying to show your followers. Again, it’s designed as a mode so that you don’t have to manually tune the autofocus response.

What’s missing/odd?

The ZV-1 is primarily a video camera, designed to be operated selfie style, which makes it easy to understand why photographer-friendly features from the RX100, such as the EVF and control ring haven’t been included.

But video shooters are likely to note the lack of a headphone socket. While it’s true that most to-camera video isn’t shot with headphones on, it seems like an odd omission to provide no way of listening to the audio levels before you press that big red button, or properly review a clip after it’s been recorded (the internal speaker is pretty quiet).

Similarly, the inclusion of Log and ‘HLG’ video modes feel a bit half-baked, given the camera’s output is all 8-bit. We’re not expecting much of the ZV-1’s footage to go through extensive color grading, but more experienced video shooters should be aware of this limitation.

You might think it’s cool

The ZV-1 is a little bit thicker than the RX100 V and Sony says the use of more composite materials in its construction improve heat dissipation. You can see this composite panel when the screen is flipped out. Despite this, the camera will only record footage for five minutes at a go in its default state. You need to disable the overheat shutdown function in order to record for longer periods.

With this done, we’re told the camera will keep recording almost indefinitely (or, at least, to the capacity of your memory card). But it’ll be interesting to find out just how hot the camera gets, and how long you can comfortably hold the camera before needing to consider the optional VPT2BT bluetooth selfie grip thing.

We’ve not yet been given a battery life figure but, as we say, the ZV-1 can be powered over its USB connector if necessary.

Overall

As the branding hints, the Sony ZV-1 isn’t particularly intended for stills photographers. But for the many, many people creating (and, in some cases, making a living from) facing-the-camera content for social media, the ZV-1 looks like a powerful tool.

We’ll have to spend more time with the ZV-1 to find out how well it behaves as a stills camera, beyond its core role, but (as evidenced by the vlogging functions added to Canon’s G7 X III) there is a niche for such a product. Unlike the Canon, the Sony can’t directly stream its video to YouTube, though the latest version of Sony’s smartphone app lets you transfer videos (including 4K) once you’ve captured them.

If you’re not able to take advantage of the initial discounts being offered in some markets, $ 799 might seem quite expensive. But it’s worth noting that the removal of the EVF helps bring the list price down by $ 200 compared to the original MSRP of the RX100 VA and within $ 50 of the Canon’s launch price.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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