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Archive for April, 2020

How HDR TVs could change your photography forever

07 Apr

Not the HDR you love to hate

You probably already have some understanding of what HDR images are, and equally probably, a moderate-to-strong opinion about their artistic merit. But you’re likely to hear a lot about HDR in the coming years that has nothing to do with the eye-popping candy-colored processing you’re thinking of.

A standard DR impression of the HDR difference

This is a necessarily limited representation of the difference between SDR and HDR images, constrained by your SDR display.

On an HDR monitor, capable of brighter whites and darker blacks, the shadow region would be brighter and able to express more contrast, while the sky would be brighter still and more distinct from the foreground, just as it would be in the real world. However, it’s impossible to convey the capabilities in a JPEG image, viewed on an SDR display, so all we can do is try to maintain the distinction between the sky and foreground.

The technologies that make this possible are displays that can achieve a wider color gamut, a greater maximum and minimum brightness than conventional displays, and that can show more subtle gradations of tones from this brightest point down to black. This means they can show a more convincing representation of the real world, but requires content that makes use of this possibility.

What we currently think of as HDR images are usually high dynamic range scenes tone-mapped to fit into the constraints of standard dynamic range (SDR) displays and print. But a new generation of displays: OLED and other high-end TVs and many mobile devices, are able to display a wider range of tones than before. And, crucially, this isn’t about eye-catching effects, it’s about representing the world more realistically.

HDR in video

This capability has already been exploited in cinema. Directors and DoPs are increasingly shooting and grading their movies to utilize the wider dynamic range offered by modern cameras and displays. The latest HDR TVs allow us to gain this same experience in the home.

The push toward HDR TV has spawned a series of standards, from the sophisticated Dolby Vision to the less ambitious HDR10, via HDR10+, which sits somewhere in between. There’s also the more simplistic Hybrid Log Gamma, which is the one you’re most likely to have already heard of.

HLG was developed by broadcasters to look good on an SDR display, but better on HDR screens

Dolby Vision, HDR10 and HDR10+ are being used to various degrees by content streaming services, where it’s possible to deliver different streams to users whose systems can report that they’re HDR compatible and those that aren’t. This means they don’t have to be cross-compatible with older, SDR screens. Hybrid Log Gamma was developed by broadcasters and is designed so that it looks good on an SDR display, but looks better on HDR screens. This was necessary since broadcasters have to deliver the same signal to everyone.

Ultra HD Blu Ray discs get round the problem of how to accommodate SDR viewers by providing a standard Blu Ray disc alongside the HDR 4K version (HDR 10 in this instance)

There’s scope for cynicism here: we’ve just watched a wave of enthusiasm for 3D movies and TVs surge and ebb, so it’s no surprise that there’s another technology rushing towards us, in the hope it drives us to all upgrade our TVs to the latest spec. But this one has a more direct benefit for photographers.

HDR in stills

At present, the JPEGs produced by cameras are designed with the expectation they’ll be viewed on standard definition displays. This limits how much of the dynamic range of the real world can be shown before everything begins to looking flat and washed-out, or tips over into the hyper-real look of aggressively tone-mapped HDR images.

So far we’ve seen two camera manufacturers go further and try to take any advantage of the arrival of more capable displays. Panasonic’s S-series cameras have a mode that can output images based around the HLG standard. These files can be viewed on the majority of HDR TVs if you connect the camera using HDMI. Images shot using HLG Photo mode are output as .hsp files (defined in the HLG standard), whose wider user and acceptance is currently unclear. The cameras can also output .hsp files using in-camera Raw conversion.

Not all the elements necessary for exploiting HDR’s photographic potential are in place yet

The first sign of Canon exploiting HDRTVs’ capabilities is that you get a higher DR preview of Raw files from its recent cameras, if you connect them to a 10-bit display over HDMI.

But the big news being that the EOS-1D X Mark III will output 10-bit files designed for HDR displays in the HEIF image format.

HEIF is already in use for HDR imagery on Apple’s phones (though not, yet, its Mac computers, which can open HEIF files but don’t display the HDR version of the image). HEIF/HEIC is a broad standard, and the files from Canon and Apple are not cross-compatible with one another, but its use by two such large players in the imaging industry significantly increases the likelihood of third-party software offering support.

We may start to see HDR displays become a leading way to exhibit photography

Canon’s HEIF files use the response curve used in both the Dolby Vision and HDR10 standard. This should aid compatibility across HDR systems, but it is not backwards compatible with SDR systems.

It’s worth noting that the HEIF standard includes the option to include multiple image files: so it could potentially offer a way of delivering both an HDR and SDR version of an image, without any compromises to maintain cross-compatibility.

So what does this mean?

For now, there’s no standard workflow for producing HDR images, so it’s not something you can easily start doing today. But it’s worth being aware that the possibility is coming and it could change what you can do with your photos.

For instance, since the latest HDR screens can show a much more convincing version of the world than bright lights reflected off good quality prints, we may start to see HDR displays become a leading way to exhibit photography. If that’s your target, you wouldn’t need to worry about also producing a more restrictive version for SDR display, so you could process your images on an HDR display with HDR output in mind.

Apple’s Photos software, running on latest Mac Pro and combined with the rather pricey Apple XDR display, is one of the few combinations to currently let you edit photos for HDR displays.

Alternatively, embracing a Hybrid Log Gamma workflow would mean that nearly everybody could view your photos but that those with SDR monitors wouldn’t miss out on the subtlety in the brighter parts of the image. Or perhaps there’ll be a need to prepare two versions of your best images: one optimized for HDR and a second that still looks good to everyone else.

If you haven’t already drawn this conclusion: it’s early days for HDR photography and not all the elements necessary for exploiting its photographic potential are in place, yet. But it is coming. And your next TV could be a chance to expand your photography beyond a set of limitations you might not even have realized were confining you.


SDR/HDR demonstration by Rishi Sanyal with help from Dan Bracaglia

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tamron’s 70-180mm F2.8 lens should ship in mid-May for $1,199

07 Apr

Last October, Tamron revealed it was working on a compact 70–180mm F2.8 telephoto lens for full-frame Sony E-mount camera systems. Now, we officially have availability and pricing information for the 70–180mm F2.8 Di III VXD.

As promised, the lens is small despite its focal length range, measuring in at 149mm (5.9″) long and 81mm (3.2″) diameter, with a weight of 810g (28.6oz). The lens is constructed of 19 elements in 14 groups, including one molded aspherical element, one hybrid aspherical lens, one ‘eXtra Low Dispersion’ (XLD) element, five Low Dispersion (LD) elements and fluorine coatings. The lens is ‘moisture-resistant,’ but Tamron doesn’t elaborate on what exactly it can endure.

An illustration of the optical construction of the lens.

Autofocus is driven by Tamron’s ‘Voice-coil eXtreme-torque Drive’ (VXD) linear focus motor. At 70mm, the minimum focusing distance is just 27cm (10.6″) in manual focus and the aperture diaphragm features a nine-blade design. As with other lenses in Tamron’s lineup, the 70–180mm F2.8 features a 68mm front filter thread.

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The 70–180mm F2.8 Di III VXD lens will be available in the U.S. on May 14, 2020 for $ 1,199. However, Tamron notes that due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic the release date could be bumped back.

Tamron Announces the Launch of Lightest and Most Compact Large Aperture Telephoto Zoom Lens in Its Class for Sony Full-Frame Mirrorless Cameras

Third model in Tamron’s series of fast F/2.8 zoom lenses for Sony full-frame mirrorless cameras delivers quiet, fast focus and superb performance

April 6, 2020, Commack, NY – Tamron announces the launch date of the 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VXD (Model A056), a large aperture telephoto zoom lens for Sony E-mount full-frame mirrorless cameras that is the lightest and most compact in its class. The lens will be available in the U.S. on May 14th at $ 1199. However, due to the spread of COVID-19, the release date or the product supply schedule could be delayed.

The 70-180mm F/2.8 features a compact and lightweight design with a 67mm filter diameter, the same as Tamron’s highly esteemed 17-28mm F/2.8 (Model A046) and the 28-75mm F/2.8 (Model A036). The optical construction includes several special lens elements that contribute to the lens’s overall superb imaging performance. Its very short 33.5” MOD (Minimum Object Distance) expands overall versatility. The lens utilizes Tamron’s newly developed VXD (Voice-coil eXtreme-torque Drive) linear motor focus mechanism that produces an autofocus drive that’s quieter and quicker than ever before. Additionally, a floating system is used to achieve excellent optical performance at all shooting distances. By simultaneously operating two VXD units via electronic control, the system produces clear and sharp images of all objects near and far. Other features that support a great shooting experience include Moisture-Resistant Construction for added weather protection and Fluorine Coating for easy maintenance. In addition, the 70-180mm F/2.8 is fully compatible with various camera-specific features including Fast Hybrid AF and Eye AF. Developed under the concept of “making large aperture zoom lenses user-friendly,” the 70-180mm F/2.8 provides users with complete portrait-to-telephoto lens range coverage. This new model joins the 17-28mm F/2.8 Di III RXD and the 28-75mm F/2.8 Di III RXD to complete Tamron’s fast zoom lens trinity for full-frame mirrorless cameras.

PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS

1. Compact size maximizes the mobility advantages of mirrorless cameras

A true marvel of portability and utility, the 70-180mm F/2.8 incorporates an innovative zoom mechanism and 180mm telephoto power. It was possible to maintain extreme light weight and compactness even while attaining a fast F/2.8 aperture across the entire zoom range by leveraging camera-based image stabilization. It is small: filter diameter 67mm, maximum diameter 81mm, length 5.9” at the 70mm setting, and also light weight: 28.6 oz. The super-compact size helps make handheld shooting a breeze. As part of our constant, ongoing effort to achieve both high image quality and supreme compactness, Tamron went to great lengths to create this product in answer to demands of the new generation of digital cameras.

2. Newly developed VXD linear motor focus mechanism delivers high-speed and high precision autofocus performance

Tamron developed its first-ever linear motor AF drive focus mechanism, VXD (Voice-coil eXtreme-torque Drive), especially for the 70-180mm F/2.8. While operating faster than ever before, the drive also maintains positional accuracy down to 0.005mm (0.0002”), less than one tenth the width of a human hair! This provides unprecedented fast and precise AF performance. A floating system that uses two high-speed, high-precision VXD units with advanced electronic control is also used. This innovative design produces clear and beautiful images of all objects from near to far and at the same time helps reduce size and weight. In addition, its exceptional quietness enables low noise shooting in silent settings. Active athletes and moving vehicles are among the subjects commonly photographed with telephoto zoom lenses. The enhanced, highly responsive focus features of the 70-180mm F/2.8 enable following a subject’s movements to provide users with a whisper-quiet, high-precision shooting experience, not just for still images but also video.

3. Superior design for uncompromised image quality

The 70-180mm F/2.8 has an optical construction of 19 elements in 14 groups. It includes a total of six XLD (eXtra Low Dispersion) and LD (Low Dispersion) lens elements combined, and three GM (Glass Molded Aspherical) and hybrid aspherical lens elements combined. Special lens elements are generously and optimally arranged to correct chromatic aberration and maintain very high-resolution performance from edge-to-edge. This model also features BBAR-G2 (Broad-Band Anti-Reflection Generation 2) Coating, which minimizes ghosting and flare and produces stunning, clear images with brilliant, sharp subject detail. Furthermore, excellent high image quality across the entire zoom range is enhanced by camera-based distortion and shading correction. Additionally, the bokeh effect obtained using the fast F/2.8 aperture delivers beautifully smooth and soft transition from the subject to the background. The images created with this lens are emblematic of Tamron’s pursuit to combine supreme compactness with superb image quality.

4. 67mm filter diameter for system convenience

The 70-180mm F/2.8 features the same 67mm filter diameter as Tamron’s other lenses for full-frame mirrorless cameras including the 17-28mm F/2.8 (Model A046), a fast ultra-wideangle zoom, and the 28-75mm F/2.8 (Model A036), a fast standard zoom, as well as the close-focusing prime lens series (20mm, 24mm and 35mm). This uniformity significantly reduces cost and trouble when working with PL, ND and other filters. Even the front lens caps are the same size, eliminating the hassle of sorting caps when switching lenses. These features combine to produce a highly convenient and mobile system that adds more fun to photography.

5. Close focusing to a mere 33.5 inches

The new 70-180mm F/2.8 lens has a MOD of 33.5” throughout the entire zoom range. This is astonishingly close for a large aperture telephoto zoom lens. The short MOD paves the way for impressive telephoto shooting at a maximum magnification ratio of 1:4.6 at the 180mm telephoto end. Moreover, a floating component equipped with two VXD linear focus mechanisms maintains high image quality while effectively controlling aberrations so that the 70-180mm F/2.8 ensures great image quality even at close-up. To effectively suppress optical aberrations, this lens features a floating mechanism that ensures great image quality at distances as short as 33.5”.

Note: At the 70mm setting only, it is possible to shoot closer than the specified MOD of 33.5” (as close as 10.6”) when manual focus (MF) is set on the camera. However, results may be less than optimal since image quality decreases in peripheral areas. For more details, please visit this website: https://www.tamron.jp/en/support/guide/closeup.html

6. Moisture-Resistant Construction, Fluorine Coating, and Zoom Lock switch

Seals are located at the lens mount area and other critical locations to deter infiltration of moisture and/or rain drops and afford Moisture-Resistant Construction. This feature provides an additional layer of protection when shooting outdoors under adverse weather conditions. Also, the front surface of the lens element is coated with a protective fluorine compound that has excellent water- and oil-repellant qualities. The lens surface is easier to wipe clean and is less vulnerable to the damaging effects of dirt, moisture or oily fingerprints, allowing for much easier maintenance. Additionally, the conventional Zoom Lock switch prevents unwanted barrel extension during transportation.

7. Compatible with main camera-specific features and functions

Tamron’s new 70-180mm F/2.8 is compatible with many of the advanced features that are specific to certain mirrorless cameras. This includes the following:

– Fast Hybrid AF

– Eye AF

– Direct Manual Focus (DMF)

– In-camera lens correction (shading, chromatic aberration, distortion)

– Camera-based lens unit firmware updates

* Features vary by camera. Please consult your camera’s instruction manual for details. (As of January, 2020.)

8. Tamron’s ‘Dream Team’ of large aperture zooms for full-size mirrorless cameras

Tamron’s 17-28mm F/2.8 Di III RXD (Model A046) ultra-wideangle zoom and the 28-75mm F/2.8 Di III RXD (Model A036) standard zoom lens earn high marks for user-friendliness and high image quality among large aperture zoom lenses for both E-Mount and FE-Mount Sony mirrorless cameras. Now, the 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VXD (Model A056) telephoto zoom lens joins the lineup to complete the Dream Team Trinity of high-speed zoom lenses for full-size mirrorless cameras. A key advantage of this series is their portability. The three models altogether weigh surprisingly little, just 62.8 oz. Featuring light weight, compact size, a fast F/2.8 aperture and superb image quality, Tamron’s Dream Team is easy to carry, easy to deploy and easy to enjoy.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm X100V vs. X100F lens shootout: A worthy update to a modern classic

07 Apr

When we reviewed the original Fujifilm ‘Finepix’ X100 back in 2010, we noted that the lens offered excellent sharpness within a normal shooting range, but with noticeable haziness and loss of contrast within a meter or so, and substantial veiling softness in the near-macro range. The ‘soft focus’ effect wasn’t always objectionable, but it was impossible to ignore in close-range portraits, especially of pets and small children, where the temptation is always to position them closer to the camera.

As the resolution of cameras in the X100 series increased (from 12, to 16, to 24MP) these issues in the close focus range became ever more apparent. That 23mm F2 lens, with its 8 elements (including one aspherical) in 6 groups, gave sterling service for several generations, but by the time the X100F came around it was clear that optically, it had hit a limit.

Our testing shows that overall, the new lens in the X100V is much improved over the original design

During the planning process for the X100V, Fujifilm’s optical engineers went back to the drawing board. It might look the same to a casual glance, and it might still accept the same wide and tele converters, but on the inside, the X100V’s has been totally redesigned. Probably the most important change is the addition of a second aspherical element, which Fujifilm claims increases corner sharpness, and greatly improves image quality at close focusing distances at wide apertures. In short, it should address those areas in which the older lens was notably weak.

Our testing shows that overall, the new lens in the X100V is much improved over the original design found in previous X100-series cameras. Read on for our full analysis, which compares the X100V against the X100F at four focus positions: Infinity, ‘Medium’ (~1m) ‘Close’ (~0.5m) and ‘Macro’.

A note on all of the images in this article: Images are JPEGs, converted from Raw in Adobe Camera Raw, with sharpening turned to ‘0’, and an Unsharp Mask (amount: 200, radius: 0,6, threshold: 0) added in Photoshop. Raw files are available for download via the links in most of the widgets below.


Infinity

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At infinity, it’s clear that both cameras are capable of delivering very good central sharpness$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5055–1786495829”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5055); }); }), but the X100V is more consistent across the frame$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5065–430078908”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5065); }); }).

And that’s really the story across the two lens’ entire aperture range: The X100V’s lens is not substantially sharper than that of the X100V in the center, but it’s very clear that sharpness and contrast at the extreme edges of the frame$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5052-1720704258”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5052); }); }) is improved compared to the X100F. Even at F5.6$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5053–1644791573”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5053); }); }) and F8$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5054–257385516”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5054); }); }), the X100V has a slight advantage when it comes to definition at the extremes.

It should be noted that focus position has a major part to play in how images from the X100F look, especially at at the widest apertures, at the edges of the frame. This is most likely due to curvature of field. For this comparison, I focused on the green bush$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5051–1618134941”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5051); }); }) roughly in the middle of the scene, and selected the sharpest of three shots, at all apertures, on both cameras.

Verdict:

The X100V’s new lens delivers comparable peak sharpness to that of the X100F, but superior sharpness and contrast towards the edges of the frame. Even at F5.6 and F8 the new lens out-resolves the old design across most of the frame, making the X100V more useful than the X100F for landscapes and cityscapes. For optimal cross-frame sharpness at wide apertures though, both cameras (but especially the X100F) reward some experimentation with exact focus position.


Medium focus (~1m)

The medium focus range is where you’d typically take portraits on a 35mm equivalent lens. We shot this scene at a distance of roughly one meter (39.4″), and my cold war-era globe is about 28cm (11″) in diameter. While ideally we’d be showing you a portrait here (currently impossible due to the quarantine measures) we hope that this scene should serve as a reasonable proxy. The film boxes on the left, and the Nikon S2 on the right are positioned on approximately the same plane as the nearest point of the globe. Focus and framing was set using the yellow tape target in the center of the image.

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Images from this scene are a little hard to interpret, and require some explanation. Depending on where you look, the X100V might appear either sharper, or softer than the X100F. In some areas it actually looks like the zone of focus is shallower on the X100V$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5041–1637164982”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5041); }); }), almost as if its F2 lens is slightly faster than the F2 lens on the older X100F (which we’ve measured, and it isn’t). Something that is consistent, though, is the higher contrast of images from the X100V.

After analyzing the Raw files, we suspect that the X100V’s new lens has been tuned to deliver a different fall-off from in-focus to out-of-focus areas, which has the effect of giving smoother out of focus areas. You can see this here$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5038-1407338552”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5038); }); }) at F2 and here$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5040-1407338552”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5040); }); }) at F2.8. This may explain the (small) apparent decrease in the zone of sharpness$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5041-1015591318”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5041); }); }) compared to the X100F at equivalent wide apertures.

In terms of central detail wide open, the two cameras are hard to tell apart$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5042-1848188631”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5042); }); }).

Verdict:

At a medium focus distance of the sort you might be working at for a typical portrait, the X100V’s lens is a close match to the X100F in terms of resolution at equivalent apertures, but offers higher contrast and slightly smoother out of focus areas. This results in the impression of fractionally less depth of field from the newer lens. In practical use, the biggest challenge to successful wide-aperture portraits on both cameras is focus accuracy.


Close focus (~0.5m)

For this scene, we shot a collection of film boxes from ~0.5m (~20″), shooting downwards using a copy stand. This is the kind of shooting distance from which you might take moderate closeups (food photographs etc.,) or portraits of a pet or young child. A bubble level was placed on the rear LCD to ensure that the cameras were perfectly perpendicular to the arrangement of boxes. There is some difference in the relative ‘height’ of the film boxes, but it’s within 2-3mm (<1/8″).

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While central resolution is similar at F2$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5045-356385092”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5045); }); }), the X100V’s lens has a slight edge, if only by virtue of its higher contrast. The difference in detail definition at the edges of the frame is obvious, with the X100V clearly delivering more usable images$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5046–297568247”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5046); }); }), thanks to a relative lack of the X100F’s characteristic haziness.

It is clear that at this focus distance, the X100V’s lens delivers images with significantly higher contrast than those of the X100F, across the entire frame. By F5.6 and beyond, there is little difference between the two lenses in terms of either resolution or contrast in the center$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5049-24928001”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5049); }); }), but the X100V maintains its advantage at the edges$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-5048–1113632447”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(5048); }); }).

Verdict:

Again, the higher contrast and better edge-to-edge consistency of the X100V’s files makes them more attractive than equivalent images shot on the X100F. While neither camera delivers bitingly sharp images when shot wide open, files from the X100V are more consistent, with little of the ‘haze’ at wide apertures which is characteristic of the original 23mm F2 found in the X100F.


Minimum focus

The X100V and X100F offer an impressively close minimum focus distance of 10cm (~4″). With a 35mm equivalent focal length, that works out to a maximum reproduction ratio of roughly 1:4. Not great, (and a long way off ‘true’ macro) but respectable. This is the kind of distance from which you might shoot a collectible item, a flower or – yes, again – your food. At absolute minimum focus, both cameras become fiendishly difficult to focus accurately, so for this setup, I backed off to around 15cm (6″).

Please note that for the purposes of easy comparison against the X100F in the slider below, the 26MP images from the X100V have been downsampled to 24MP and both examples are shown at ~50%. You can download original files from the links below.

F2

The haziness of the X100F’s lens that is visible at wide apertures at 0.5m (~20″) becomes progressively more severe as you approach minimum focus. Wide open at this focus distance, the X100F’s lens is capable of resolving a fair amount of detail in the middle of the frame, but with such strong haze that images are essentially unusable, except for creative effect.

By comparison, images from the X100V demonstrate slightly less resolution but much greater contrast, minus the haze, and with better consistency across the frame. Despite the lack of critical sharpness really anywhere, images from the X100V are more usable simply by virtue of the lack of haziness compared to the X100F. This holds true through to around F5.6 (essentially duplicating the results of the 0.5m test, above).

Verdict:

Ultimately, we wouldn’t recommend either camera for extreme closeup photography, (neither is really ‘sharp’ anywhere until F4-5.6) but for practical purposes, despite its slightly lower peak resolution, the new lens in the X100V is clearly more capable. There’s little of the haziness which X100-series users have come to expect, which makes images much more usable for everything barring critical applications.

Download originals:

  • X100V @F2
  • X100F @ F2
  • X100V @ F5.6
  • X100F @ F.6

Summing up: is the new lens in the X100V really improved?

On balance, yes. Definitely.

At infinity, the X100V’s lens is not appreciably sharper than that of the X100F at optimal apertures in the center of the frame (which was never a weak point of the older model), but it’s noticeably more consistent edge-to-edge, being sharper and more contrasty at the extremes of the frame at all apertures.

The differences between the two lenses that are visible at infinity become even more apparent at closer focusing distances. If you’re a fan of relatively close-range portraits you can expect higher contrast from the X100V at wide apertures, and somewhat smoother bokeh, too. Meanwhile for copy work (or for taking pictures of your dinner) the superior edge definition from the X100V’s lens at all apertures might make the difference between a shot that you can actually use, versus one that you can’t.

If you’re a fan of relatively close-range portraits you can expect higher contrast from the X100V at wide apertures

In the truly closeup range, neither camera is at its best, but despite delivering slightly lower resolution, the X100V wins again by virtue of the higher contrast and near-total lack of ‘haziness’ compared to the older X100F. This difference is especially noticeable wide open, but holds true until around F5.6.

For those X100F owners considering an upgrade that want to use their WCL and TCL converters on the X100V, our shooting on the wide converter suggests that you can expect better performance than you’re used to, especially towards the edges of the frame. You can see the difference that the new lens makes to image quality at 28mm equiv., in the slider below (which shows a 100% crop from the upper right of the ‘Infinity’ scene, above) and you can see the full thing in a dedicated widget here.

28mm WCL converter (upper right detail)

We don’t have access to a TCL tele converter to check, but given the improvements in image quality in the close focusing range of the X100V’s lens, we would not be surprised if it gives similarly superior results on the newer camera, especially for portraiture. If you have one, and you’ve tried it on the X100V, leave a comment and let us know how it performs.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fotodiox’s new EF to L-mount adapter features AF, aperture and image stabilization support

07 Apr

Fotodiox has announced the release of its new Canon EF to L-Mount Pro Fusion adapter, which offers complete electronic control and communication between the lens and the camera it’s attached to.

The adapter works with both EF and EF-S lenses and converts them to L-Mount mirrorless cameras. It features an all-metal design with chrome-plated brass mounts and features a built-in Micro USB for updating the firmware of the adapter.

Fotodiox uses its ‘Fusion’ technology to add complete electronic communication and control between the lens and camera body, including autofocus, aperture control and image stabilization. EXIF and aperture data is also transmitted between the lens and camera. In the event you’re using a manual lens, the ‘Fn’ button on the adapter can be pressed to turn off all electronic communication between the lens and camera body.

Fotodiox notes continuous AF and video AF aren’t currently supported due to ‘unsatisfactory’ performance, but other autofocus modes should work with minimal issues. It’s also pointed out that some third party lenses, such as those from Sigma and Tamron might struggle with autofocus a bit more than first-party lenses.

The adapter is backed by a two-year manufacturer warranty, comes packed inside a padded bamboo box and is currently available to purchase for $ 179.95 (B&H).

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Video: How to capture abstract macro photographs using little more than paper and lights

07 Apr

Considering most of the world is well into a few weeks of self-isolation, you’ve probably photographed nearly everything you can in your household, leaving little left to document. Now, it’s time to get really creative and to help make the most of a rough situation is Ben from Adaptalux, who’s shared a 15-minute video showing how you can capture abstract macro photographs using little more than a few lights, a few sheets of paper and a little bit of creative thinking.

Throughout the 15-minute video, Ben walks through a number of different setups and other variations you can experiment with to capture the macro abstract photographs, but the basic tools you’ll need on hand include a camera, a close-up capable lens, a tripod (not necessary, but will very much simplify the process), at least one light source, several sheets of white paper, paper clips (or bobby pins) and a flat surface that’s either transparent or translucent.

While Adaptalux lights are unsurprisingly mentioned in the video, any lights should do and if you have a few gels sitting around, you can get extra creative by mixing up colors.

If you prefer a non-visual explainer, Adaptalux has also published an accompanying blog post on its website that details the process. You can find more tutorials on Adaptalux’s YouTube channel, where it offers up a complete playlist dedicated to ‘Macro Photography Tutorials.’

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Does Olympus Still Have a Place in the Camera Market?

06 Apr

The post Does Olympus Still Have a Place in the Camera Market? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

pros and cons of olypmus cameras

These days, all the camera headlines seem to be dominated by Canon, Nikon, and Sony, with the occasional mention of Fujifilm thrown in.

Olympus, with its Micro Four-Thirds system, rarely makes the news. And popular resources frequently neglect Olympus in their recommendations, suggesting “Big Three” bodies for photographers selecting a mirrorless system.

But what is this about? Why doesn’t Olympus, a camera company with a history stretching back to the early 1900s, get any attention?

The Olympus mirrorless camera system

Is this a mistake?

Or does Olympus no longer have a place in today’s camera market?

That’s the question that this article will answer. I’m going to explain the benefits and drawbacks of Olympus cameras compared to other manufacturers.

And then I’m going to give a verdict:

Whether Olympus is a manufacturer that still makes sense in today’s world…

…or whether Olympus’s time is up.

Let’s get started.

Person holding an Olympus mirrorless camera.

The cons of Olympus

No camera system is perfect, which means that there are going to be some photographers that won’t be satisfied with Olympus’s products.

Here are the key issues that consistently come up with Olympus cameras, issues that help explain why Olympus hasn’t been getting much interest of late:

1. The micro-four-thirds sensor

In many ways, the lack of interest in Olympus stems from one thing:

The Micro-Four-Thirds sensor.

The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II.

Olympus only produces Micro-Four-Thirds mirrorless cameras. The company offers zero full-frame options and zero APS-C options.

Canon, Nikon, and Sony all produce full-frame mirrorless cameras. Even Fujifilm, which ignores full-frame, offers APS-C sensors that push smaller sensor technology to its limits.

Why is this such a big deal?

Larger sensors offer two key qualities over smaller sensors:

Better high-ISO capabilities.

And better dynamic range.

So if you’re someone who requires either of these features, you’re going to feel compelled to buy a full-frame option over a more limited MFT body. For instance, you’ll be hard-pressed to find landscape shooters who don’t use a full-frame body. Landscape photographers frequently deal with high dynamic range scenes and need to maximize low-light image quality, which is why a full-frame camera is the tool of choice.

2. Resolution

A larger sensor doesn’t guarantee high resolution.

But it is closely correlated with it. All of the high-resolution camera models in the mirrorless market today are full-frame.

And when it comes to the megapixel race, Olympus hasn’t been doing so well. The company’s most professional bodies top out at about 20 MP, with some of their models only coming to 16 MP.

Olympus's bodies just don't compete on megapixels.

Here’s the thing about megapixel counts:

While they often don’t much affect the average photographer…

…they are real attention grabbers.

A big portion of camera headlines is dominated by the latest megapixel marvels, which means that Olympus, with its 16 and 20 MP sensors, just doesn’t get much coverage.

The E-M10 Mark III is a low-resolution camera.
Olympus’s OM-D E-M10 III only offers 16 MP.

And resolution is talked about so frequently that the need for a high megapixel count is burned into the mind of almost every beginner photographer.

Don’t get me wrong:

Megapixels do matter.

But they only matter to some photographers – those that need to maximize detail, printing sizes, or cropping potential.

For others, more megapixels are just a comforting spec, but not a feature that’s truly necessary.

3. Crop factor

Here’s the final issue with Micro Four-Thirds cameras:

You get a huge, 2x crop factor.

And this makes basic wide-angle lenses (e.g., in the 20-30mm range) become standard focal lengths.

Several Olympus mirrorless cameras.

For landscape photographers, this is a huge issue. For sweeping scenic shots, you’re going to need a system that can offer true wide-angle coverage.

Though this 2x crop factor can be a benefit for photographers requiring a lot of reach, such as those who shoot sports or wildlife.

4. Electronic viewfinder quality

It’s a fact:

Olympus’s electronic viewfinders just aren’t that great.

Their best cameras offer a 2.36M-dot resolution, and it just doesn’t look that good compared to many Sony, Canon, Nikon, and Fujifilm options.

So for photographers coming from DSLRs and requiring a clear, sharp EVF experience, Olympus’s options don’t cut it.

The pros of Olympus

Though Olympus doesn’t get much attention, there are things that Olympus is doing better than pretty much every other camera manufacturer out there:

1. Camera and lens size

One thing that Olympus does really, really well:

Camera system compactness.

Compact Olympus camera

This is where the micro-four-thirds sensor really starts to pay dividends, keeping camera body size way down and keeping lens size equally small.

In fact, while cameras by Sony and Fujifilm, in particular, are often very compact, these systems will often come back to bite you when buying lenses. Mirrorless glass is often as big as DSLR glass, and this can be a problem. For one thing, bigger and heavier is just a pain to deal with, plus big lenses feel unbalanced when mounted on a compact camera.

So if you’re a travel photographer, you’ll love how easy it is to pack Olympus kit.

If you’re a street photographer, you’ll love how small and unobtrusive Olympus systems really are.

And if you’re a wildlife photographer who spends days hiking in the field, having a light, small body can be a real lifesaver.

2. Shooting speeds

If you take a close look at Olympus specifications, you’ll see that a number of their cameras offer shooting up to 60 frames per second.

And I’m talking still photography, not video.

Some of Olympus's cameras offer truly incredible continuous shooting speeds.

Let me clarify:

You can shoot at 60 fps with no caveats, no cropped sensor, no drawbacks (though it is with the electronic sensor, rather than the mechanical one).

This is a huge benefit for anybody doing high-speed or action photography. Of course, you’re going to fill up your memory cards pretty quickly if you use the 60 fps option all the time, but this high-speed option is dead useful in certain situations where you just can’t miss the shot.

And by the way, you also have an option to shoot in Pro Capture mode, which ensures that the camera starts taking photos when you press the shutter button halfway. Then, when you finally press the shutter button down all the way, the last dozen or so images are saved to your memory card (along with any images taken after you fully hit the shutter button). This is fantastic for getting unanticipated shots, be it in sports or wildlife or event photography.

So if you’re the type that wishes for serious high-speed shooting capabilities, the Olympus cameras are definitely worth a look.

3. Image stabilization

Here’s the final key benefit of Olympus cameras:

They offer the best in-body image stabilization of any mirrorless camera system.

Some Olympus cameras offer seven or more stops of stabilization when including a stabilized lens, which allows for handholding down to 1s and longer (depending on the focal length and the steadiness of your hands).

If you’re the type of photographer who prefers to work without a tripod, this is the absolute best possible way to do it. You can capture gorgeous scenics using narrow apertures and not have to worry about camera shake.

Plus, even for the tripod-happy photographer, there are going to be times when carrying such support just isn’t feasible. But if you have an IBIS-equipped Olympus camera with you, you’ll be able to get a similar range of shots without a tripod.

So does Olympus still have a place in the 2020 camera market?

Absolutely.

Lenses that mount on Olympus bodies

Though Olympus systems do come with a few drawbacks, they also include characteristics that no other camera manufacturer can match. Characteristics such as:

  • Camera and lens compactness
  • High-speed continuous shooting
  • In-body stabilization

Are these benefits worth it for everyone?

No. If you’re a landscape photographer who plans to make huge, wall-sized prints, you’re going to want to pick a different system. If you’re a sports photographer who requires the best autofocus system that money can buy, Olympus probably isn’t your best bet either. And if you’re an event photographer who consistently shoots with four or five-digit ISOs, then I doubt that Olympus is for you.

But if you’re a photographer who prizes a compact system over everything else, someone who:

  • Travels frequently
  • Goes on long hiking trips
  • Needs blazing-fast continuous shooting
  • Needs an unobtrusive system for street photography
  • Just hates being weighed down by heavy equipment
  • Doesn’t like carrying a tripod

…then Olympus is going to be just what you need.

So before you buy a Sony, Canon, Nikon, or Fujifilm body, ask yourself:

Might Olympus be the better choice?

Maybe it’s not. You might do better with another system.

But it’s at least worth considering!

What are your thoughts on this? Do you have anything you could add? Please do so in the comments!

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

The post Does Olympus Still Have a Place in the Camera Market? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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These are the best portrait lenses for Sony mirrorless shooters

05 Apr

Our guide to the best lenses for Sony APS-C and full-frame mirrorless cameras has been updated to include recommendations for portrait shooters.

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How to Keep Your Photographic Muscles Flexing During the Times of Isolation

05 Apr

The post How to Keep Your Photographic Muscles Flexing During the Times of Isolation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

How to Keep Your Photographic Muscles Flexing During the Times of Isolation

We’re currently facing challenges that most of us haven’t faced before. How do you keep photographing when you can’t visit interesting locations or meet your models? Here are some ideas for you to exercise your photographic muscles during this time of isolation.

Keep Photographing without leaving the house
1/13 sec. f/8; ISO 800

According to where you live, you may be more or less constrained regarding your travel distances. Maybe the problem is not even reaching an adventurous place but you can’t even get to your studio. Whichever is your case, these ideas are meant for you to keep photographing with minimum resources.

Get smart

If you happen to be in insolation and unable to reach your equipment, maybe it’s time for you to go into mobile phone photography, if you haven’t done so already. Smartphones today have multiple cameras, a wide range of focal lengths and super-high resolution. This is not to say that you can’t do great things with lower-range devices.

The device itself is only one part of the equation, then you can go into the huge variety of apps you’ll find on the market. There’s one for every need and budget. Firstly, you can use a camera app to control the settings of the camera, and then other ones for post-production.

Mobile Photography examples
I took this image with a Sony Xperia Z3 using the default camera app.

In this example, you see the original photo on the left made with a very basic (and old) device.

The middle image is a version processed for Instagram. I used ‘A Color Story’; an app that has some basic retouching tools, sets of filters constantly updating according to the trends, and a grid to schedule your feed.

In the image on the right, I used the Photoshop app for normal post-production as I would have done on my computer. I cropped and fixed the perspective, and also did some fine-tuning of the exposure. You can sync it up with your Adobe CC account or you can use a lighter version for free if you are not subscribed.

Self-portrait

If you’re housebound and you live alone, you can use yourself as a subject.

If you’re a portrait photographer, this can keep you going while gaining insight into what it feels like to be on the other side of the lens. However, if you’re not used to doing portraits, this is your chance to experiment with new types of photography. If you’re shy, you can go abstract or conceptual; so no excuses – keep photographing!

I decided to go with a creative collage.

Keep photographing by doing a self-portrait

You don’t have a problem getting models? Still, these times are giving everybody the extra push into boosting their online presence. A self-portrait may be just the thing you need to build your brand identity.

Look back

Photography is not just about the shooting, it starts with the idea and planning. Then it continues during development and post-production.

So, to keep photographing, you can also work on the other steps in the process. If you have your hard drive with you, or have your work in the cloud, use this time to dive into your old photographs to do any of these exercises:

  • Catch up with all the editing, cleaning and back-ups that you just haven’t had the time to do until now.
  • Do a self-reflection exercise by reviewing your work. There’s a lot that you can learn and improve while looking at the evolution of your projects and techniques. Find your style and what drives you. If it helps, start writing down your thoughts.
  • Save an old photo. We all have one (or more) photos that didn’t really come together in-camera, but we couldn’t bring ourselves to delete. Maybe you have some new skills that can improve it? Perhaps you just have a new take on it that you didn’t see before? Maybe it still won’t be great, but it will surely serve as practice.
Post production is another way to keep photographing
1/1600 sec; f/5,0; ISO 400

Post-processing

Use this time to improve and experiment with your digital darkroom skills by processing old files.

Another choice is to download images from the web and practice on them. If you’re not buying them from a stock photo website, then remember to keep an eye on the copyright so that you’re not breaking any laws. Some good free stock sites are Unsplash and Pexels.

Try new techniques on old photos
1/50 sec. f/8; ISO 1250 Processed with the wet-plate filter from the NIK Collection

For inspiration, you can check out many of the DPS tutorials on basic and creative post-processing.

DIY

I’ve always been a fan of DIY even when I’m not facing any specific limitations. I think that doing things yourself can make you fully understand how they work. Anyway, regardless of one’s philosophy, now we’re facing some difficulties in mobility, availability, and maybe even budget.

If you haven’t done it yet, it’s time for you to try some DIY. Luckily here at DPS, you can find many tutorials on the subject.

If you’re limited in lightning you can try:
Creating Effective DIY Studio Lighting with Household Items.
DIY Flash and Lighting Hacks for Digital Photographers.

If you’re missing your accessories:
How to Use Ordinary Items to Make DIY Photo Filters.
How to Make a DIY Lens Hood to Eliminate Lens Flare.

If you’re lacking props and backgrounds:
DIY Food Photography Props on a Budget.
DIY Lighting and Background Accessories for the Budget Conscious Photographer.

If you just want to have fun and try something new:
DIY: How to Create a Coffee-Stained Texture for Aging Images in Photoshop.
DIY Photography: How to Make Your Own DIY Lightstick for Cool Photos.

Conclusion

Being isolated doesn’t mean that you have to stop doing the things you love. Keep in mind that you’re not alone. Share in the comments section, your exercises and ideas so we can support each other as a community of photographers. And, also share any of your images as a result of trying any of these exercises. We’d love to see them.

The post How to Keep Your Photographic Muscles Flexing During the Times of Isolation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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How to Easily Make Images ‘Pop’ with these Luminar 4 Tips

05 Apr

The post How to Easily Make Images ‘Pop’ with these Luminar 4 Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.

Luminar 4 tips. Sunset behind muntains with cloud reflection on water.

Luminar 4 has become a popular photo-editor since it’s release, partly due to it’s groundbreaking AI tools used to replace skies, introduce elements or give an overall ‘pop’ to your image. However, these Luminar 4 tips go beyond the AI tools and teach you how to quickly make your images look more impressive.

In this article, I want to show you how we can transform this rather ordinary sunset panorama into something more visually pleasing that’s sure to grab people’s attention.

Luminar 4
The original raw file we’re going to work on

To avoid making this too complicated, I’m going to avoid using layers and masks and instead show you a series of very basic tips that you can immediately implement into your workflow.

Let’s get started and dive into these Luminar 4 tips:

1. Use AI only when needed

While Luminar 4 has become widely known due to its Artificial Intelligence tools such as the AI Sky Replacement Tool and AI Augmented Reality Tool, you should avoid using them for every image.

These types of composite tools are a very personal choice (there are many opinions on both sides of the discussion, but I don’t want to delve into that now), but there’s no secret that it’s an easy way to make a boring photo interesting.

If you’ve got a boring blue sky, you can easily replace it with a more colorful or dramatic one. This can be fun and useful at times, but I strongly recommend that you avoid replacing the sky or introducing elements to it all the time.

Most images simply don’t need to be worked on in such a way. Most of the time, it ends up looking more distracting than attractive.

Luminar 4 Tips
Use the AI Augmented Reality Tool only when needed – it won’t always look good

For example, using the AI Augmented Reality Tool to introduce a flock of birds or a rainbow in the image we’re working on in this article makes no sense. It looks misplaced.

Reserve these tools for particular images only.

2. Don’t forget about the basic adjustments

Playing with the various AI tools, adding sun rays, or dramatic effects can be fun, but don’t forget about the basic raw adjustments; these are crucial for the image and will set the basis for further development.

The basic adjustments I’m talking about can be found in the Light Tools inside the Essentials Category. More specifically, I’m talking about the following sliders:

  • Temperature
  • Tint
  • Exposure
  • Highlights
  • Shadows
  • Whites
  • Blacks

To enhance the warm sunset feel and give the image a little more contrast, I increased the Temperature and Tint, darkened the Exposure (as a result of the next adjustments), darkened the Highlights and increased the Shadows, Whites and Blacks.

Luminar 4 Lights Tool
After applying basic adjustments

By applying these few basic adjustments, we’ve introduced some more details in the shadows, increased the contrast, and warmed the image slightly.

3. Correct mistakes using AI Enhance and AI Structure

Now, I said that you should only use AI tools when they’re absolutely needed, but the AI Enhance and AI Structure tools are the exceptions. Unlike the other tools, they don’t add or replace anything. Instead, they use Artificial Intelligence to ‘correct’ the image.

I’ve always been a skeptic of these types of automatic tools (I still have nightmares about the good ol’ Photomatix days), but these two have proved me wrong. AI can have a place in photo editing.

Don’t get me wrong – pulling too much in these sliders is going to make the image look overly edited. But applied at a lower amount, they can add a lot to it.

Luminar 4 AI Enhance
After applying AI Enhance and AI Structure

For this example, I applied them with the following settings:

  • AI Accent (AI Enhance): +9
  • AI Sky Enhancer (AI Enhance): +20
  • AI Structure Amount: +19

As you can see, these adjustments have made the sky and image ‘pop’ a little more than previously. The nice part about these tools is that they don’t add any unwanted noise or grain to the image.

4. Add a vignette

A vignette is commonly used to shift the focus of an image towards its more interesting parts by darkening the surroundings.

This is a particularly useful tool when the borders of an image are bright. That’s not quite the case in this image, but I do find that darkening the outer areas can help emphasize the setting sun.

Luminar 4 Vignette
Adding a vignette darkens the corners and puts the emphasis on more important aspects

I recommend using the Vignette tool with some caution too. Don’t go to the extreme, as that will quickly make the vignette too obvious and distracting.

It’s also a good idea to use the ‘Choose Subject’ button to set the midpoint of the vignette, it won’t always be in the middle! For example, if you’ve got a person standing to the left of the image and they’re the main subject, that should be the middle point.

5. Add a glow (but be careful!)

Techniques such as the Orton Effect is loved by landscape photographers, and it’s a technique that’s been around since the 1980s (created by Michael Orton). This technique can easily be replicated in Luminar 4. In fact, it can be found two places.

The Orton Effect tool is found in the Portrait Tools Category. By placing it here, Skylum has made it clear that this particular effect is mostly meant for portraits.

For other genres of photography, you can use the Glow Tool found in the Creative Tools Category. This tool introduces a nice soft glow to the image that can help give that much desired ‘dreamy’ atmosphere.

Luminar 4 Glow Tool
The image after using the Glow Tool

BUT don’t go all-out and apply this technique at a high amount. That’s going to look more distracting than appealing and will make the image look amateurish.

Instead, apply this at a low amount. If you’re feeling brave and have some knowledge about Luminar 4, this is a technique that’s best added through a mask.

6. Midtone contrast is your friend!

For years I’ve been using Luminosity Masks in Photoshop to introduce Midtones Contrast. However, in Luminar 4, it’s done with a simple slider found inside the Advanced Contrast tool in the Professional Category.

The problem with adding contrast to the entire image is that you essentially brighten the brightest parts and darken the darkest. This quickly results in clipping of the shadows and highlights.

Luminar 4 Tips
Applying the Midtones contrast is more efficient than adding contrast globally

By introducing contrast to the midtones only (i.e. any pixel that’s neither bright nor dark), you avoid this problem and get a much more desirable result.

This is one of my most important Luminar 4 Tips that will make your image pop. Go try it for yourself!

7. Adjust the focus by using the Adjustable Gradient Tool

The final tip I’m going to share in this article is one that’s not necessary for this particular image. It’s something that’s going to do wonders in the majority of your images. Use the Adjustable Gradient Tool to shift the focus in your image.

Very often, I find the foreground or sky to be too distracting in images. There’s no reason why a foreground should be as bright and sharp as the main subject of the image. Remember, our eyes naturally gravitate towards the brightest parts, which is where you want the main subject to be.

The Adjustable Gradient Tool is an easy solution that even complete Luminar beginners can take advantage of (there are more advanced methods that are superior, but I’ll save that for another time).

You can switch between the Top and Bottom gradient and choose the gradient’s orientation in order to better fit your image. It’s possible to add adjustments to both the top and bottom at the same time.

Luminar 4 Tips
I used the Adjustable Gradient to darken the foreground and shift the focus upwards

For this example, I only applied adjustments to the Bottom as I wanted to remove some details in the rocks visible in the lower part of the image. All I did was increase the Exposure, Highlights and Vibrance.

This tool is also used to darken/recover a bright sky. For those scenarios, simply choose Top and increase the Exposure or Shadows.

Conclusion

The truth is, you don’t need to spend hours upon hours editing your images to make them look impressive. Applying a few simple adjustments can often be enough to give that extra pop.

In the 7 Luminar 4 tips shared above, we’ve managed to take an ordinary sunset image and make it slightly more appealing:

Luminar 4 Tips
Original Image
Luminar 4 Tips
Final Image

I hope that you found these Luminar 4 tips useful and that you can apply these techniques and tools into your workflow. I would love to see the images you’ve edited, so make sure to leave them in the comments below!

Make sure to have a look at my popular eBook ‘A Photographer’s Guide to Luminar 4′ if you’d like to learn how you can take full advantage of all the organizing and processing tools and create professional-looking images with this popular photo editor. There, you’ll learn everything you need to know about organizing and editing, as well as receive several step-by-step workflows you can use for yourself.

The post How to Easily Make Images ‘Pop’ with these Luminar 4 Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.


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White House photographer Pete Souza shows off what gear is in his bag

05 Apr

Pete Souza, the former Chief Official White House Photographer for U.S. Presidents Ronald Reagan and Barack Obama, has taken to Instagram to show off what camera gear he uses for his work.

Throughout the 12-minute video, he details his equipment of choice and shows off images captured with nearly every camera and lens he mentions. Along the way, he also shares a number of anecdotes from over the years, regarding how his style and approach has changed as camera technology continues to progress.

Despite the fascinating video of his most-used equipment, Souza prefaces it by explaining the camera and lenses are simply tools to get the job done, likening them to a trio of screwdrivers; ‘They all work equally well […] I don’t know what brand or model [the screwdrivers] are. You just have to make a decision yourself on what kind of equipment to use.’

View this post on Instagram

Info on what tools I used at the White House.

A post shared by Pete Souza (@petesouza) on

You can find more of Souza’s work on his website, as well as the archived White House Flickr account that shows more than 6,600 images captured during his time as Obama’s official photographer.

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