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Archive for March, 2020

Due to Coronavirus, Canon Faces Production Problems on EOS R5, R6

17 Mar

The post Due to Coronavirus, Canon Faces Production Problems on EOS R5, R6 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Due to Coronavirus, Canon Faces Production Problems on EOS R5, R6 featured image

The camera industry is feeling the effects of the coronavirus now more than ever.

According to Canon Rumors, Canon’s is facing significant shortages in the production of its two new mirrorless cameras, the EOS R5 and EOS R6.

These two mirrorless models are currently under development and were slated to launch this summer, but the appearance of coronavirus has seen the disruption of Canon’s supply chains and has brought production capacity on the cameras down to just 25%.

Canon is considering two ways of addressing these issues:

First, the company may decide to halt the release of the EOS R5 and EOS R6 until the fall, when production should be back at full capacity. This would allow for strong, albeit late, product launches.

Second, Canon may go ahead with the launch of both cameras. But Canon would be moving forward without the production numbers necessary to satisfy all customers, and so we would likely see shortages until the coronavirus pandemic has passed.

Obviously, neither of these measures is ideal. Both the EOS R5 and R6 have generated great excitement among Canon fans, and among the camera industry at large. Any delays or shortages will be met with frustration on all sides, especially by those who have been holding out for a true professional mirrorless model from Canon.

Note that the EOS R5 offers a number of features that were missing from Canon’s first two distinct full-frame mirrorless bodies, the EOS R and RP. These include dual card slots (essential for wedding photographers, photojournalists, and sports photographers, all who require redundancy in their work), as well as in-body image stabilization, which will debut in both the EOS R5 and EOS R6. The EOS R5 will also address concerns that videographers had with the EOS R; the R5 will reportedly offer true 8K video that utilizes the full width of the sensor.

And while Canon has not confirmed a megapixel count for the R5, it has been consistently rumored to feature a 45 MP sensor, which could position the R5 as a high-powered alternative to megapixel monsters such as the Nikon Z7 and the Panasonic S1R.

Canon has remained virtually silent regarding the EOS R6. But rumors suggest that the camera will feature a 20 MP sensor, in-body image stabilization, 4K/60p video, and 12/20 frames-per-second shooting with mechanical and electronic shutters, respectively. It may cater to hobbyists looking for a first full-frame mirrorless body, but who want true mirrorless-type features such as IBIS.

Here’s the bottom line:

The release of these two full-frame mirrorless cameras may well be a turning point for Canon. Whether it comes sooner or later is immaterial, though it will certainly be frustrating for anyone looking to purchase these cameras.

So keep an eye out for more information regarding both of these mirrorless bodies.

Are you looking to buy either the EOS R5 or the R6? Which camera excites you more? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Due to Coronavirus, Canon Faces Production Problems on EOS R5, R6 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Five reasons why Fujifilm probably won’t make a full-frame X100

17 Mar

Introduction

The X100 series is one of Fujifilm’s most popular and important product lines. Over the course of almost ten years, the company has built the X100 series into an iconic line of cameras, which established Fujifilm as a serious brand with enthusiasts, and continue to be best-sellers.

Ever since its introduction, some photographers have been asking Fujifilm to develop a full-frame version of the X100. And on the face of it, that’s an appealing thought. Who doesn’t like the idea of greater depth of field control and a boost in potential image quality? But we strongly suspect that Fujifilm will never do it. Read on for the five main reasons why not, and why we doubt that a full-frame version is on the cards, either.

Size and weight

The Sony Cyber-shot RX1R II is a very small compact camera with a 35mm F2 lens, but in order to make it so compact, compromises were made on ergonomics and battery life.


The X100V is a little bigger than previous iterations of the X100 series, but it’s still a relatively small camera, considering everything that Fujifilm has packed into it. One of the reasons for that is its APS-C sensor. A larger sensor would mean a larger imaging circle (which means a larger lens to achieve the same F stop), a larger shutter mechanism, and probably a deeper body, to accommodate the additional circuitry hardware, and to keep it cool.

Genuinely small full-frame cameras exist (the Sigma fp and Sony Cyber-shot RX1R II spring to mind) but with both, their small size comes with compromises. The fp lacks a viewfinder and even a mechanical shutter. In fact, the fp is better thought of as a module inside a camera system rather than as a wholly complete camera in and of itself. Meanwhile the RX1R II has a fairly cramped control layout and a tiny battery, rated for a pitiable 220 shots, and not infrequently capable of rather less than that, depending on how you use it.

It’s impossible to know exactly what a full-frame X100 might end up looking like, but you can bet it would be larger and heavier than the cameras that we know and love.

Development cost of full-frame

The Sigma fp is even smaller than the RX1R II, and one of the ways in which Sigma ensured the smallest possible body is by eliminating both a viewfinder and a mechanical shutter. An X100-type camera without either of those things would probably be a non-starter.


And then there’s cost. The 26MP sensor in the X100V is used in multiple other Fujifilm cameras, which means that they can be purchased from Sony in bulk, keeping the per-unit cost down.

Economies of scale mean that it would probably be very expensive for Fujifilm to procure a relatively small number of totally different sensors for only a single product line, aimed at a relatively small group of customers.

On top of that, a new, larger sensor would probably mean developing a new shutter mechanism: either a conventional mechanical shutter in-camera, or a scaled-up in-lens shutter, of a type similar to the current X100 line. Either way, Fujfilm would need to make it from scratch, likely with associated development and production costs.

Bigger sensors also draw more power, and create more heat. One way or another, it all costs money.

Add all of these costs together, and developing a niche product like a full-frame X100 would probably be very expensive for Fujfilm. And what would that mean?

Literal cost to consumer

The Leica Q2 is a good example of a fantastic camera, with a built-in finder and a great lens, that makes the most out of its high-resolution full-frame sensor. But it’s priced beyond the reach of most of us.


You guessed right: it means that a hypothetical full-frame X100 would cost you more. One of the major reasons for the success of the X100 line over the past decade has been the cost of the cameras, at a sweet spot of around $ 1,200 at point of launch, usually dropping a little over their lifetime. Obviously, $ 1,200 is still a considerable chunk of change, but compared to the likes of the Sony RX1R II or the Leica Q2, it’s a relative bargain.

Imagine if Fujfilm had to double the cost of the X100 in a full-frame version. Would you buy one? Even if you’re one of those people who would answer “yes”, it’s only logical that you’d be counting yourself among a minority, compared to the potential audience for the traditional APS-C bodies.

Loss of brand identity, and customer trust

For customers who have made large investments in Fujifilm’s APS-C products, the announcement of a full-frame camera may look like a vote of no confidence in the smaller format.


Customers really like it when companies play to their strengths, talk frankly to them, and don’t try to fix something that isn’t broken. Fujifilm has said so often – and for so long – that it has no interest in developing full-frame cameras, that such an abrupt change of direction would risk damaging the brand in the eyes of some of its most loyal customers.

In short, Fujifilm is not a full-frame brand. It’s arguably the only company (R.I.P. Samsung) that has really made a full-throated case for the benefits of APS-C over full-frame, and has spent the past decade doubling-down on that approach, creating the most convincing dedicated APS-C lens lineup on the market.

If Fujifilm introduced a full-frame version of the X100 concept, there’s no doubt that the company would attract a certain number of new customers. But several other, much less positive things would happen: For starters, a lot of loyal X100 series fans would feel betrayed, and worried that such a move might spell the end for a range of cameras they’ve come to love.

Photographers with an investment in the APS-C interchangeable lens X-series would also get spooked. To a Fujifilm shooter who has spent thousands of dollars on XF lenses, the announcement of a full-frame camera – any full-frame camera– could look like a massive vote of no confidence in APS-C.

Finally it’s not hard to imagine the feelings of someone who has just dropped thousands on one of Fujifilm’s medium-format GFX cameras, if the company suddenly announced it was developing a compact full-frame camera. Which leads us on to…

Risk of cannibalization

How many GFX 50Rs would Fujifilm sell if a similarly-sized, fixed-lens alternative were available? Such a product would risk cannibalizing Fujifilm’s existing lineups.


I’ve explained the likely potential costs (both real and in terms of potential damage to the brand) to Fujifilm of adding a full-frame X100 lineup, but there are always costs associated with doing something new, and costs are acceptable if there’s a major long-term benefit.

There’s no doubt that by putting a full-frame sensor behind a fixed 35mm F2 lens, Fujifilm would be providing photographers with a more powerful tool than any of the previous X100 series models, but that might actually end up being a problem. Why? Because it would risk ‘cannibalization’.

In this context, ‘cannibalization’ describes a situation where sales of a new model come at the expense of sales lost in other parts in the lineup. Would Fujifilm want to risk a large number of sales of the (at this point presumably quite profitable) X100-series in favor of a new, costlier full-frame model? It seems unlikely, and it’s even less likely that the company would risk sales of the nascent GFX range by inserting a full-frame model into the lineup, aimed at the exact same type of users.

Summing up – arguments against

Every one of Fujifilm’s medium format cameras so far has used the same NP-T125 battery. It’s physically big, because it has to be. That means the cameras have to large enough to accommodate this kind of battery.


To sum up, it’s highly unlikely that Fujifilm will develop a full-frame X100 series camera for the following reasons:

  1. A larger sensor would add size and weight, mitigating a major X100 selling point
  2. Such a product would cost a lot to develop and manufacture
  3. The result would be a very expensive camera – reducing its potential audience
  4. A move to full-frame would annoy and worry existing loyal Fujifilm APS-C customers
  5. The risk of cannibalization within existing lineups is too great

At a technical level, the imaging potential of full-frame is undeniably greater than APS-C, and only slightly less than medium-format. But the additional development cost, and the size and weight penalty involved in making full-frame work in a compact X100-type form factor, would be considerable. It’s lovely to imagine a full-frame X100 with a 35mm F1.4 lens, but less lovely to picture how much larger, heavier, and costlier that camera would have to be, compared to an X100V.

But what about medium format?

Fujifilm has a long track record of making fixed-lens medium format cameras, from the days of film. Could it repeat the trick with digital?


Fujifilm has said repeatedly that it has no interest in full-frame. Instead, it has developed a medium format lineup, offering far superior image quality potential and differentiated from both its own APS-C line, and the growing crop of full-frame mirrorless cameras now on the market.

The sensor in Fujifilm’s flagship $ 10,000 GFX 100 can be thought of essentially as four X-T3 sensors, in a single piece of silicon. With four times the surface area, and current-generation chip design, the GFX 100’s sensor is capable of astonishing resolution and dynamic range, putting it in a different league to even the best APS-C cameras.

So might Fujifilm build a medium-format X100? There’s an argument to be made that it makes sense in a way that full-frame just doesn’t. Medium format would offer an increase in potential image quality over full-frame (albeit relatively modest – about 2/3EV), a significant leap in image quality over APS-C, it’s a major part of Fujifilm’s brand identity, and the larger format is a key differentiator for Fujifilm compared to competitive manufacturers.

In conclusion

For all of the appeal to Fujifilm of burnishing the company’s credentials in the medium format marketplace, an MF X100-type camera still seems very unlikely, for all of the same reasons why a full-frame X100 is probably a non-starter.

The difference in image quality between full-frame and what Fujifilm calls medium format is relatively modest. In fact, in our testing we found that the 50MP sensors used in the GFX 50S and 50R don’t offer significantly better performance than the best current full-frame sensors. The more advanced 100MP sensor in the GFX 100 is a slightly different matter, but its cost (larger sensors are significantly harder to produce, and their ‘yield’ is much smaller) probably makes it impractical for use in such a different type of camera.

Meanwhile, remember how a full-frame X100 would have to be bigger and heavier? Well that’s even more true with a hypothetical medium format version.

The GFX 50R provides a convenient point of comparison here. It’s not huge, compared to (say) the GFX100, but it’s definitely not a camera you can slip into your pocket. Imagine a fixed version of the compact 50mm f3.5 on the front, and it might be possible to shave off a few mm here and there. But either way, you’re likely still looking at a very expensive product, which probably won’t deliver much better image quality than a current full-frame model from Nikon or Sony.

Of course, that doesn’t mean we don’t still want one.

What do you think? Let us know in the poll below.

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: a BTS look at what goes into making a camera weather-resistant

17 Mar

Dave Etchells, founder and Editor-in-Chief of Imaging Resource, has shared a video and accompanying blog post that dives into the topic of weather-resistance in cameras. In both the video and blog post, Etchells shows off the bespoke system he’s built for testing the claims of manufacturers and chats with a leader at Olympus to get an inside look at what goes into the manufacturing process behind weathersealing a camera.

A close-up shot of the dripper used in Etchells’ current testing rig.

Etchells’ bespoke system, which he says it’s taken him ‘literally hundreds of hours’ to build over the past three years, was conceived after the weather-resistance of the Nikon D850 and Sony a7r III proved to be the tie-breaker for Imaging Resource’s 2017 Camera of the Year Award. In his own words, he wanted to build a ‘test system that would let me rigorously control all the variables, built around an array of timers, pumps, custom-made drippers (coming in what I’ve been calling version 1.5 of the system) and other components.’

His desire for all of this work is explained in two parts:

‘First, to give manufacturers a way to meaningfully market and compete with each other on the basis weather sealing. More than just that though, I want to push them to up their game across the board, making good weathersealing more common for consumers and pros alike.’

To see what goes into the process of weathersealing a camera, Etchells partnered up with Olympus and took a trip to Olympus’s R&D headquarters in Hachioji, Japan, where he met with Takao Takasu, the Imaging Product Development manager for Olympus Corp.’s Research and Development department.

A screenshot from a promotional video showing how Olympus tests its cameras for water-resistance.

After a brief intro, the 12-minute video starts with an interview with Takasu-san, who provides a history of weathersealing inside Olympus camera systems. After that, the video transitions into a walkthrough that shows nearly every weathersealing component inside Olympus cameras, from small gaskets around buttons and dials to protective meshing used throughout lenses.

Both the video and article are a wealth of knowledge on the matter and go to show the lengths to which Etchells will dive into the details to share his knowledge and the insight of his industry contacts with the photography community.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sigma CEO confirms ‘most new products’ will be ‘exclusively for mirrorless cameras’

16 Mar

In a tweet published on March 10, Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki shared a bit of information that hints at what products we should most be expecting to see from Sigma in the foreseeable future.

In response to a question from Twitter user Terri Ikoma, username @uplink_boss, Yamaki-san said Sigma will put a priority on developing its ‘DN’ lens lineup for mirrorless camera systems, including full-frame, APS-C and Micro Four Thirds (MFT) systems. Below is the screenshot with the machine-translated text:

Since much can get lost in translation (particularly machine translation), we contacted Yamaki-san to independently confirm the statement and see if he would be willing to divulge any further information. Yamaki-san both confirmed the statement and elaborated that while APS-C and MFT lenses aren’t out of the question, ‘most of [the lenses] will be DG DN series (designed for full-frame mirrorless cameras).’

Considering the direction the rest of the photography world is moving, this news shouldn’t necessarily come as a surprise, but to get confirmation from Sigma’s CEO that the third-party lens manufacturer will be focusing exclusively on mirrorless systems is a significant detail. Canon also confirmed earlier this year that its focus will be on full-frame mirrorless lenses (RF-mount) over DSLR lenses (EF-mount), so Sigma isn’t the only one who’s looking at DSLRs through the rearview mirror.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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GoPro Hero8 Black review: Have action cameras finally hit a wall?

16 Mar
Have action cameras reached peak performance?

I remember GoPro in the early days. Back then the cameras could only offer sub-SD recording, had no Wi-Fi and more importantly no way to see the picture as they lacked a screen. They were a hard sell, but filled a gap for small disposable digital video cameras.

The launch of the Hero 8 Black brings some improvements over the previous generation, but is it enough? If you already have an action camera does the quality and feature set of the Hero 8 Black make you want to upgrade? And, if you don’t already have a camera like this, has GoPro launched a camera that will convince you to buy into this product category?

Key specifications

  • 12MP sensor
  • 4K/60p, 2.7K/120p and 1080/240p video (up to 100 Mbps bit rate)
  • H.264 and H.265 codecs
  • HyperSmooth 2.0 video stabilization
  • LiveBurst captures 1.5 seconds of photos or video before shot
  • Integrated mounting ‘fingers’ attach directly to GoPro mounts
  • Optional ‘Mods’ add features like 3.5mm mic jack, HDMI-out, selfie screen and LED light
  • Waterproof
  • Wi-Fi + Bluetooth connectivity

The list of features on the Hero 8 Black is extensive, but improvements in image quality year-over-year are hard to come by. After all, 4K/60p with limited noise on a sensor that is incredibly small is difficult to achieve, especially in low light. To paraphrase a well known line from Scotty, ‘you can’t change the laws of physics’. Pixel pitch, size and resolution play directly against each other in the triangle of visual fidelity. Without increasing the pixel size, or finding a way of gathering more photons per pixel, improving signal-to-noise ratio is difficult.

Image quality isn’t everything

Where do you see improvement when moving from the Hero 7 Black to the Hero 8? One feature that’s attracting attention is HyperSmooth 2.0, GoPro’s image stabilization technology, which claims to rival gimbal levels of image stabilization without the need for balancing, mounting or powering an external handle. But can it actually deliver, and is it a big enough improvement over the previous generation to convince people to part with their money and upgrade?

Before I started using this camera I was incredibly skeptical, but having tested this feature over the past few weeks it does deliver a very good result, even managing to smooth out some of the bumps associated with footfalls, which is very difficult to achieve on standard gimbals.

This video compares the four levels of HyperSmooth 2.0 stabilization: off, on, high, and boost modes. As expected, each level provides increased stabilization, however notice that there’s a small crop factor when using ‘on’ and ‘high’ modes, and an even greater crop factor in ‘boost’ mode.

I did notice one slightly odd characteristic when shooting below 4K, however. When mounted in certain situations, for example in or on a vehicle, it will actually pan the image to counter movement. If you’re driving and turning left the embedded software will pan the image to the right, then slowly return to the center once you’ve completed the turn. As a result, the image has an overall floating feel to it instead of providing a rock solid picture.

That said, overall the results are surprisingly effective, even when using the boost mode, although that’s not available at 4K/60p. Be aware that HyperSmooth crops the image about 10% (and somewhat more in the most stabilized boost mode).

I discovered one odd effect when using the HyperSmooth 2.0 boost mode at 1080 resolution: when mounted in certain situations, like a moving car (above) the image will pan to counter movement. This gives the image a floating feel instead of the sense that the camera is locked in place.

With that proviso, though, it rivals and now beats a lot of traditional optical image stabilization done in-lens or in-camera, even compared to models that use sensor shift.

Integrated ‘fingers’ eliminate the need for frames or cases to mount the camera on standard GoPro accessories.

Two steps forward and one step back?

Along with some useful additions, this new camera also changes some features – and not for the better. For example, it’s no longer possible for the user to change the front element of the lens if it becomes cracked or chipped. GoPro’s stance is ‘GoPro does not offer a repair service on our cameras as, due to their size and design, the cost of parts and labor for performing such a specific repair would be more expensive than replacing the camera outright if it’s covered by warranty.’

Instead, it offers the GoPro Plus service, which will replace your camera if something goes wrong (at a maximum of 2 cameras per year). However, this service comes at a cost: $ 4.99 per month or $ 50.04 per year, and includes unlimited cloud storage and 50% off mounts and some accessories. Yes, another service to subscribe to, although for serious users this may pay dividends.

The USB-C port interfaces with GoPro’s range of accessories

Why only incremental improvements?

Technology usually progresses at an evolutionary pace rather than a revolutionary one. The introduction of a brand new product can have the ‘wow’ factor, but usually subsequent versions don’t have the same effect.

A limiting factor here is processing power and its relationship to battery life and available power. Small cameras have small batteries and in turn these can only provide limited power to the processor. As a result, you can’t have all the best features enabled at the same time.

Think you might be able to use your older Hero 7 batteries? Think again. Hero 7 batteries can’t deliver as much peak power as Hero 8 batteries and are not compatible with the new camera.

There’s always a trade off with temperature as well. If you did have all the available features turned on the camera would most likely shut down before the battery was exhausted due to overheating, which could cause damage to the camera or battery. There’s a reason that the older Hero 7 batteries—even though they are physically the same—won’t work on the Hero 8 due to power delivery limitations. The newer Hero 8 batteries can deliver more peak power. What more can be added?

If image quality isn’t making great leaps, and with features like Hypersmooth 2.0, live streaming, 4K capture and slow motion already included, have we hit a wall? What more can possibly be added to future action cameras? Part of the answer for GoPro seems to be add-on hardware, like a vlogging flip-up LCD (Display Mod), or an add-on frame which gives you HDMI out, a 3.5mm in and an extra microphone (Media Mod). These go some way to disguise the limitations of the bare camera and add the possibility of appealing to the ever expanding vlogging market.

HyperSmooth 2.0 is impressive, and even does a good job of smoothing out the bouncing of footsteps, such as this child holding the camera running across a yard. Since it’s getting harder to improve image quality with each generation of action camera, manufacturers will need to get creative with features like this to entice users to upgrade.

What’s the competition?

The competition in the premium action camera space is actually fairly limited. There’s the Sony FDR-X3000, the DJI Osmo Action and the recently introduced Insta360 One R, and really that’s about it at the moment. The recently released Insta360 camera employs an interesting modular setup, but can it compete? After all, GoPro has been doing this for nearly 20 years.

There are lots of cameras available at the mid and lower end of the market, but this isn’t an area that GoPro competes in and it really is a case of getting what you pay for. GoPro’s installed user base and reputation are formidable to any new manufacturer coming to market, and it has proven difficult for established name brands to launch and maintain an action camera market segment, as Nikon found out.

The GoPro Hero 8 Black. A hero among action cameras?

What does it all mean?

Much as we’d like to see revolutions in technology, this isn’t the norm. Incremental improvements mean that year-over-year upgrades are less necessary for a lot of users. The niche factor of the high end action camera market also means that not many manufacturers operate in this space, which in turn limits competition.

The next major developments will probably center around a change in battery technology and an increase in power density that allows for more powerful processing. The gradual shrinking of the process node in the CPU will also bring key improvements and the ability to do more while maintaining lower temperatures or extending battery life.

An action camera is a great addition to a filmmaker’s tool kit, and if you need a new one the Hero 8 Black is a solid choice. However, while there’s a certain FOMO—a fear of missing out—and even peer pressure to have the latest and greatest, it probably doesn’t make financial sense to upgrade every year for only minor improvements.

That looks like it’s not going to change any time soon.

What we like

  • HyperSmooth 2.0 stabilization is impressive
  • Excellent 4K/60p video
  • GoPro accessory mount integrated into body

What we don’t

  • HyperSmooth results in strange panning effect in certain situations
  • Subscription service for repairs
  • Incompatible with Hero 7 batteries

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon to End Production of the 5DS and 5DS R

16 Mar

The post Canon to End Production of the 5DS and 5DS R appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Canon to End Production of the 5DS and 5DS R featured image

It’s time to say goodbye to Canon’s megapixel monster pair: The Canon EOS 5DS and the Canon EOS 5DS R.

According to Canon Rumors, Canon will no longer be producing these two cameras, nor is there a 5DS successor in the works.

While this news is hardly unexpected, it further illustrates Canon’s choice to invest in mirrorless over DSLR technology.

Note that the 5DS R is identical to the 5DS, with a single exception: its low-pass filter cancellation effect. This ensures that photographers can eke out maximum detail with the 5DS R, though the sensor is more prone to the effects of moiré.

The Canon EOS 5DS and 5DS R duo debuted way back in June 2015. At the time, they sported the highest resolution sensors available in a full-frame camera, at 50.6 MP, and were tailored to detail-hungry landscape and commercial photographers.

These days, the resolution award has been handed off to the Sony a7R IV, though the EOS 5DS still remains the highest resolution 35mm DSLR on the market.

In many ways, the EOS 5DS pair has become outdated. With the exception of its stunning resolution, the 5DS struggles to remain relevant in a world of fast continuous shooting, 4K video, and speedy Live View autofocus.

But while Canon will not be producing a true EOS 5DS successor, you can expect to see a mirrorless model that follows the 5DS in spirit. In fact, there’s currently a rumor floating around about a high-megapixel mirrorless body, one with either a 75 MP sensor, an 80 MP sensor or a 150 MP sensor.

All of these specs are merely rumors, and may not pan out. But I wouldn’t be surprised if at least the 75 MP or 80 MP sensor turns out to be true, especially with Sony producing the 61 MP Sony a7R IV.

That said, for now, the 5DS and 5DS R remain Canon’s highest megapixel cameras to date.

So if you’re interested in grabbing them before they’re gone, you can find both cameras for around $ 1300 USD on Amazon.

Will you grab one of these cameras before they are discontinued, or will you wait to see what else Canon comes up with in the future? Let us know in the comments.

The post Canon to End Production of the 5DS and 5DS R appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Only Take Candid Photos?

16 Mar

The post Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Only Take Candid Photos? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Standing back with a long lens on your camera and snapping candid photos is an easy option for many people. The alternative is to use a shorter lens and get in close and connect with your subjects. This is challenging for most photographers.

Flaming Wallet illustration Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Take Candid Photos
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700, lens 20mm, f/4, 1/125, ISO400

A candid photo is one where your presence and your camera are not affecting the outcome of the photos you take. There is no pose. There is no distraction from you or your camera at all.

When you are shy, using a long lens for candid pictures might be less taxing on your emotions. But it does not often result in the most engaging photographs. If you are capturing candid photos only because you are shy, this is a cop-out. Only using this technique will limit your potential as a photographer.

French Horn - Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Take Candid Photos
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 35mm, f/1.4, 1/5000, ISO 400

When a candid approach to photography is better

At times, a candid approach to photography will result in more interesting photos.

You will not always be in a position to engage with your subject. Sometimes doing so will disrupt a natural flow of events.

Finding yourself in situations where you think you or your camera will alter the scene, it’s good to remain candid.

If your subject sees your camera, it may distract them. Sometimes when people are aware there’s a photographer present, they will alter their behavior.

This will not always be to your benefit.

Fruit vendor at a market in Chiang Mai, Thailand
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 35mm, f/4.5, 1/250, ISO 400

Other times, you might be wanting to photograph a whole group of people. There’s no way you’ll be capable of approaching them all for even a short conversation.

Alms Giving in Chiang Mai - Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Take Candid Photos
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700, Lens 180mm, f4, 1/200, ISO 400

Is your subject highly focused on what they’re doing?

If your subject is absorbed in what they’re doing, you might not want to interrupt them. They might be:

  • Having an animated conversation
  • Playing sport
  • Creating art
  • Working
  • Or even sleeping

These are all times when asking permission or otherwise engaging a person will break their concentration (or slumber). This will affect the potential photo opportunity.

In ideal situations, you’ll be able to catch a person’s eye. They will see your camera and might give you an approving nod without breaking the flow of what they are doing. Then you can take photos in a relaxed manner because you know your subject is comfortable with you doing so.

Street Drummer - Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Take Candid Photos
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, f/2.8, 1/1000, ISO 400

You can’t always engage with your subject

Many times it’s not practical to engage with your subject. Candid photos are the only practical option when you are photographing:

  • Crowds
  • Street scenes
  • Where your subject is inaccessible

At times like this the only other option to taking candid photos is to not take photos.

When you can’t engage, it pays to be patient and observant. Wait for the decisive moment when the action is at its peak. When as many of the elements of a good photograph align, this is when you can capture the best candid photographs.

Poi Sang Long Festival - Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Take Candid Photos
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 35mm, f/5, 1/20, ISO 100

You don’t need to be an extrovert to photograph people

Being shy is a strength. Shy photographers can make the best portraits. This is because they show empathy toward the people they photograph. Learn to overcome the fear of imposing and you will take portraits with more depth.

To simply take candid photos because you are shy is not a good reason. Yes, as I have pointed out, candid photography is valid at times. But to avoid connecting with people because you don’t want to impose will often not result in the best photos.

When you want to photograph someone you see at the market, or a friend or your barista, talk to them first. Engage with them and build a rapport.

If you’re photographing a wedding or portrait, work on building a comfortable relationship with them. In many circumstances, the degree with which you connect with your subject will directly influence how good your photos are.

Portrait of a couple
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800

Approach with care, not fear

Don’t worry. If you are fearful of someone’s response, this will show. They will know and respond accordingly. Approaching someone with confidence, you are more likely to receive a positive response.

You don’t need to get in their face with a false boldness, just be yourself. Know what you want and communicate this to your subject. Take your time as it will pay off with better photos.

Spending time with anyone you want to photograph will usually result in a more interesting portrait. Learn to connect, even if you don’t have much time.

If you’re in a street market or a coffee shop, take a few moments to show people why you are interested in taking their photo.

With a friend, share with them what’s on your mind. Talk with them about why you want to take their picture.

When you’re photographing a model, compliment them.

There are many ways to communicate positively that will enhance your photographic opportunities. Staying quiet will often inhibit your creative potential.

Portrait of a Kayaw woman
© Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 85mm, f/1.4, 1/400, ISO 1250

Overcome your shyness

As a young man, I was painfully shy. I loved photography, but could not bring myself to photograph people. Now, the main subjects in my photographs are people. I learned to use my camera as a bridge to connect with the people I want to photograph.

In my book, Photographing People – A Guide For Shy Photographers, I share my experience and teach you how to overcome your shyness.

My journey to becoming a people photographer has been challenging. Camera skills are only a part of what you need to create great portraits, no matter what gear you use.

Learn when it’s best to connect. Learn how to connect. You will create more interesting, more engaging photos of people when you do.

Please Click Here to purchase my book on Amazon.

The post Is Being Shy a Good Reason to Only Take Candid Photos? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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Tokina Announces 6 Lens Roadmap for Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Nikon

15 Mar

The post Tokina Announces 6 Lens Roadmap for Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Nikon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Gear news - Tokina Lenses roadmap 2020

Tokina has announced a “2020 Lineup” which details six new lenses the company will debut this year.

The lenses are designed for various mirrorless and DSLRs, including Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, and Nikon cameras.

According to the Tokina press release, the 2020 lineup “was originally planned to be presented at the biggest annual Asian Camera and Imaging photo show CP+2020 (Yokohama, Japan). Unfortunately, due to unforeseen circumstances, the show was canceled.”

The CP+2020 was slated to take place at the end of February, but was abandoned due to the coronavirus.

Tokina goes on to explain that, in lieu of the CP+2020 announcement, the company would release the lens roadmap in honor of Tokina’s upcoming 70th anniversary.

Therefore, the lenses we can expect from Tokina in 2020 are:

  • An 11-20mm f/2.8 lens for APS-C Canon EF-mount and Nikon F-mount cameras
  • A 23mm f/1.4 lens for Sony APS-C E-mount cameras and Fujifilm X-mount cameras
  • A 33mm f/1.4 lens for Sony APS-C E-mount cameras and Fujifilm X-mount cameras
  • A 56mm f/1.4 lens for Sony APS-C E-mount cameras and Fujifilm X-mount cameras
  • A 35mm f/1.8 lens for Sony E-mount cameras (full-frame)
  • A 50mm f/1.8 lens for Sony E-mount cameras (full-frame)

Note that the first of these lenses – the Sony APS-C E-mount glass and the 11-20mm Canon/Nikon wide-angle – will come available in the summer of 2020, with the remaining lenses debuting in the fall.

This crop of new lenses should bolster already impressive lens lineups from Nikon, Canon, Sony, and Fujifilm. In particular, Sony users will appreciate the opportunity to purchase lower-priced, fast primes, given the limited options currently on offer.

Because that’s who should check out these Tokina lenses: Photographers who don’t want to spend massive amounts of cash for $ 1000+ glass, but who still require top-of-the-line image quality and suitably fast apertures.

And, given Tokina’s excellent third-party optics produced in the past, you can expect great things from these roadmapped lenses.

Now over to you:

What do you think of these lenses? Are you excited for any of them? Which camera system do you think is most in need of some third-party glass?

Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Tokina Announces 6 Lens Roadmap for Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Nikon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Lume Cube 2.0 review: rugged, portable lights for stills and video

15 Mar

Way back in 2014, Lume Cube Inc. sailed past its fundraising goals when it launched its brand-new, eponymously-named LED lighting system on Kickstarter. Aimed both at still and video shooters, the original Lume Cube offered 1,500-lumen light output and Bluetooth wireless control in a remarkably compact package. And despite measuring just 4 x 4 x 4.5cm (1.6 x 1.6 x 1.75″), it was also both rugged and waterproof.

Enter the Lume Cube 2.0: as portable as ever with some key improvements under the hood. In short, we think it’s an incredibly handy little light with a robust ecosystem of accessories. See our condensed findings below and read on for the full analysis.

Key takeaways:

  • Compact, size, rugged and waterproof construction inspire confidence and use in a variety of situations
  • Excellent quality of light, with daylight white balance and a high CRI value
  • Optical sensor to act as a slave flash for stills shooting
  • Fine control over brightness
  • Impressive battery run-time, but longer charge times
  • Good max brightness for size, but still struggles under sunlight
  • Excellent, if pricey, accessory system

What’s new?

Although it’s exactly the same size as its predecessor and has the same light output as before, the updated Lume Cube 2.0 now runs for three times as long at full power, and is easier to recharge too. And the light it produces has improved noticeably in terms of its color rendition, coverage and evenness.

The new version also offers an added low-light mode with a 1-10% power range in 1% increments, controllable either from the smartphone app or the Lume Cube’s own physical controls. And the product bundle has been expanded, with a modification frame and two filters included as part of the base product bundle.

The standard Lume Cube 2.0 kit (left, $ 90) now includes the modification frame with diffuser and warming filters. The Pro Lighting Kit (right, $ 300) includes a carry case packing two lights with modification frames, a dozen filters, two grids, and a full set of barn doors, snoot and diffusion bulb for each light.

Who is it for?

As before, the Lume Cube 2.0 is aimed both at still and video shooters, regardless of whether they’re using a sizable interchangeable-lens camera rig, GoPro, smartphone or even a drone.

For standalone cameras, most functionality can be used without a smartphone at all, and the Lume Cube works either a continuous light source or an optically-triggered slave flash. Alternatively, multiple lights can be controlled individually or as a group using an Android / iOS app.

Smarter physical controls and a better-placed optical sensor

The Lume Cube 2.0 looks quite similar to predecessor, and its size and weight are unchanged. The biggest difference is that the optical sensor has moved from the front of the light to its top, sharing its location with the status LED. In its new home, it’s now easier to trigger from a wide range of angles.

It sits in between a clearly-labeled pair of opaque black buttons on the top deck which replace the translucent buttons of the original model. These together provide access to power control, brightness adjustment, optical slave flash, and low-light mode.

The non-swiveling hot shoe mount shown in this image is included in the standard bundle. The Pro Lighting Kit doesn’t include any mounts; the ball head mount shown atop this page costs $ 25.

Charging is quicker and easier, but waterproofing suffers

Around back, the charging port is now a modern, reversible USB-C connector, and is covered by a soft rubber flap. While it’s still a bit fiddly to pull open with recently-trimmed nails, it closes securely, stays in place, and it’s really nice not to have to worry about the lights being affected by rain. (And to be able to take them underwater too, if that’s your thing.)

While less bothersome than the screw-in cover of the original Lume Cube, it’s also easier for water to circumvent, though. As a result the new model is waterproof to a maximum depth of 9.1m / 30ft, down from 30.5 / 100ft for its predecessor. That’s still plenty for snorkeling and probably a pretty significant proportion of recreational scuba too, but if you’re planning on deeper dives you may want to stick with the earlier version.

Wider, more even and daylight-balanced light

On the inside, everything is new. The battery, LED and optics have all been replaced, and while it still has a light output of 1,500 lumens (750 lux at 1m), the Lume Cube 2.0 now has a 5600k daylight color temperature, down from the 6000-6500k of its predecessor.

At the same time, the quality of its light has improved, with a Color Rendering Index score of 95. The Lume Cube 2’s new lens is also less prone to hot spots, and has a wider 80-degree coverage, up from its predecessor’s 60-degree beam angle.

Here’s a view from the rear, with the Lume Cube on its optional ball head mount atop my personal Pentax K-3. This mount is much better than the basic one included in some kits, as it lets you aim the light in almost any direction.

Smarter firmware and new features

The Lume Cube 2.0 has also received some smart updates in the firmware department. Perhaps most importantly, it now requires a three-second long press of the power button to switch on. This ensures that unlike its predecessor, it won’t switch itself on in your camera bag and drain its battery right before it’s needed.

The new firmware also allows brightness to be adjusted in either direction using the Lume Cube 2.0’s physical controls, unlike the original version which could only increase brightness to its maximum before looping back around to its minimum brightness setting on the next step.

And a new mode accessed with a long press of both buttons at once allows a much narrower 1-10% brightness range with a more precise 1% step size, rather than the full range in 10% steps as is the default. It’s handy if you’re shooting long exposures but still need just a little illumination.

Same accessories and mounting system, but now it’s in the bundle

A wide selection of filters and accessories can be attached to the Lume Cube 2.0 using the exact same modification frame attachment as before, allowing owners of the original Lume Cube to upgrade their lights or add new ones while keeping the rest of their gear.

A wide variety of optional mounts are available, including this spring-loaded smartphone clip ($ 20) to which I’ve attached the ball head and a Lume Cube 2.0 with bulb diffuser.

The frame itself now ships even in the base product bundle along with a pair of warming and light diffusion filters. Each of these uses name-brand LEE filter materials from the company’s LED-specific Zircon line. The level three warming filter drops the color temperature to 4,500 kelvin, and the diffusion filter is the lowest strength available.

Incredibly portable yet decent battery life too

The Lume Cube 2.0 is very solidly built, with not a hint of creak or flex anywhere. It’s also impressively small. Even with a modification frame attached it’d fit in looser pants pockets, and you could easily bring two or three in a jacket pocket and almost forget they were there until you needed them.

Given the compact size and relatively powerful output, I was really impressed by battery life, which is a huge improvement on the previous iteration’s 25 minutes. At 100% brightness, I could manage anywhere from 62 to 90 minutes on a charge, depending on whether or not Bluetooth was enabled, meeting the manufacturer spec precisely.

Battery life impresses, and you can charge the lights while using them

And by dropping to 50% brightness, I managed an average of three hours, 38 minutes per charge with Bluetooth active. That absolutely demolishes not only the original Lume Cube’s runtime, but also the spec sheet, which promises only 2.5 hours!

I must say it surprised me that controlling the lights via Bluetooth decreased the battery life as much as it did, though. The good news is that the Bluetooth radio does eventually go to sleep if the light is left inactive for a while. Once fully asleep, it needs to be woken back up with a physical button press before it’ll respond via Bluetooth again.

Fast charging requires a fast, modern USB-C charger and cable

The only place I didn’t come near the manufacturer spec was recharging. Lume Cube’s documentation promises around 45-60 minutes for a full charge, but using the supplied USB-C to USB-A cable and a wide variety of different chargers capable of up to a maximum of 18 watts per port, I was never able to recharge in less than two hours, 49 minutes.

I used three Lume Cubes for this shot. One was unfiltered on a mini-tripod near the bottom front of the cage, and another with bulb diffuser was pointed straight down from a bit above and in front of the birds. Finally, a third was just out of frame right and, in turn, was aimed to bounce off a small folding reflector just out of frame left.

To get near the claimed time you’ll likely need a recent, high-powered USB-C charger with Power Delivery support, as intended for charging laptops and the like, plus a Power Delivery-compatible USB-C to C cable. Unfortunately, I haven’t one to test with myself to confirm the claimed charging time.

Recharge and use your lights at the same time

The good news is that you can charge and use the lights at the same time if you’re within reach of a power outlet. This can potentially extend run times a lot, especially if you can switch off entirely or dial the brightness down significantly while setting up and between groups of shots.

I did just that while working to get the shot of my pet parakeets above, avoiding having to stress the birds any more than was necessary.

Note, though, that it’s not recommended to go above brightness level 80 while also charging. This is likely due to heat concerns, as after extended periods at 100% power, the Lume Cubes can get uncomfortably hot to the touch even without charging at the same time. (Not enough to burn instantly, but enough that you couldn’t persuade me to hold my finger on it.)

So long as you’re not in direct sunlight, the Lume Cube 2.0 is sufficiently bright for daytime use at shorter distances. Compared to the unlit shot (left), a Lume Cube at arm’s length (right) not only fills in shadows, but is strong enough to cast its own.

Best for smaller subjects or in lower ambient light

The Lume Cubes’ small size is great in terms of portability, but it comes at the expense of daytime usability. For what they are, these are pretty powerful lights but they’re simply no match for full sunlight, where they struggle to fill in shadows even at full power from just a couple of feet away.

A small reflector would be a better choice here, using the sun’s own power to provide light where it’s needed. In full shade or even indirect sunlight, though, even just a single Lume Cube can make quite a noticeable difference, so long as it can be kept fairly close to the subject.

That makes it quite well-suited to things like head-and-shoulders portraits, selfies and talking head video capture, and so on. And once you take the sun out of the equation, shooting indoors or at night the Lume Cubes really shine, if you’ll pardon the pun.

This image required just a single Lume Cube. I positioned the camera directly above the cash, then put a sheet of glass at a 45-degree angle in between. I bounced the light from a single unfiltered Lume Cube off this, and shielded the subject from direct lighting.

Up next, let’s take a look at the Lume Cube 2.0’s accessory mounting system, and its Android / iOS app experience, before wrapping up with a final conclusion.

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Simulating False-Color Infrared Photography in Photoshop

15 Mar

The post Simulating False-Color Infrared Photography in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Simulating False-Color Infrared Photography in Photoshop Featured Image

Let’s get right down to it and say that today, things might get a little weird. The techniques we’re about to discuss aren’t for everyone or every photograph. With that said, I’m about to show you something extremely cool. You’re about to learn how to simulate color infrared photography in Photoshop.

More specifically, I’m going to show you how to approximate the looks of the legendary color infrared film stock, Kodak Aerochrome.

The best part is, this technique is infinitely customizable.

Infrared photography in Photoshop

Let’s dive in and enter the overtly surreal world of infrared color photography in Photoshop.

What is false-color infrared photography?

Simply put, infrared photography makes use of wavelengths of light which fall outside the visible spectrum. Specifically, those which range from about 700 nanometers to about 1mm.

Don’t worry, that’s about as deep as we’re going to go into science with this tutorial.

The important thing to note is that while infrared photography stems from this invisible form of light, we can still use it to form photographs – even in color.

This is where the “false-color” aspect comes into play. In particular, the Aerochrome “look.”

The Aerochrome Effect

Kodak Aerochrome is/was an infrared-sensitive, false-color reversal film.

It was specifically produced for practical uses in aerial photography applications for forestry and camouflage detection, as well as other scenarios where specific infrared reflectance photographs could be useful.

For our purposes, it produces some highly interesting effects as far as colors are concerned.

A waterfall of Infrared photography in Photoshop

Primarily, vegetation with high amounts of chlorophyll content appears as pinkish-red instead of the normal green color. This has led some notable photographers and filmmakers to make use of Aerochrome to produce stylistically creative images.

Luckily for us, we can come close to producing this effect with just a few quick tricks inside of Adobe Photoshop.

What images work best?

Naturally, seeing as the original color effects of the false-color Aerochrome worked best with green vegetation containing large amounts of chlorophyll, this is the main subject matter that will work best for our simulation.

However, it’s still fun to experiment with different images ranging from landscapes to portraits, street photography and still life. The results can range from the mundane to the aesthetically startling.

A resting deer in grass

That’s enough of the background. Let’s go through step-by-step and explain how you can produce a digital simulation of the false-color infrared photography effect right inside of Photoshop.

How to simulate false-color infrared photography

The basis of our digital, false-color infrared simulation, centers around switching around the color channels of our photo.

Photoshop allows us to accomplish this switch quite easily using color channels.

Not only that, but we can further tweak the look of our photo to achieve exactly the colorization effects we want. This arguably makes this method more convenient and controllable than its analog counterpart.

To get started, I’ve brought an image into Photoshop that contains a relatively large amount of greens.

Original photo before Infrared photography in Photoshop

The first step is to make a copy of the base layer. With this layer selected, use the keyboard shortcut ‘Ctrl+J’ (Cmnd+J for Mac) to copy the layer.

Infrared photography in Photoshop

Next, we’ll invert the layer we’ve just copied by using the keyboard shortcut ‘Ctrl+I’ (Cmnd+I for Mac).

Inverted layer for Infrared photography in Photoshop

Note the readily apparent psychedelic change. We have essentially converted the photo to a negative image.

From here, we’ll change the blend mode to ‘Color’. Alternatively, the ‘Hue’ blend mode will produce similar results.

Color blend layer selected

With the blend mode changed to ‘Color,’ much of the heavy lifting is already done for us. Next, we’ll need to switch around the color channels to make the false-color infrared effect become more apparent.

Remember, we’re looking for a reversal of certain colors; namely blue and red. This is easily done using the “Channel Mixer.”

Select the ‘Channel Mixer’ icon to add the mixer adjustment. This is where the magic happens. And it couldn’t be easier.

Channel mixer selected for Infrared photography in Photoshop

Select the red channel from the drop-down and set that slider value to ‘0.’ Next, set the blue slider to ‘100.’

Red channel swap for Infrared photography in Photoshop

From here, select the blue channel. Set the red slider to ‘100’ and blue slider to ‘0.’

Blue channel swap for Infrared photography in Photoshop

What we’ve done is ‘reversed’ the blue and red channels much the same way as false-color, infrared photography does with infrared color-reversal film.

Infrared photography in Photoshop

At this point, our core processing is completed. However, there are other ways to make the effect much more refined depending on your photo.

Fine adjustments of your false-color infrared photography

While we have finished the bulk of the false-color infrared conversion, we can go a bit further and adjust the hues and color temperature of our photo. After all, this effect is not born simply from Aerochrome film but also the filters used during shooting and the subject matter itself.

Hue and Saturation

The greatest control over the effect comes from adjusting the hue and saturation of the false-colors we’ve just created. We can adjust these by creating a ‘Hue and Saturation’ adjustment layer.

Infrared photography in Photoshop

Use the hue and saturation to dial in the exact look you like.

Color Temperature

When shooting with true infrared color-reversal film, such as Kodak Aerochrome, you must use lens filters.

Often times these are yellow and orange color filters which generally “cool” the tone of the colors within the image. We can simulate this by adding a “cooling” filter in Photoshop. This is optional, but I find it lends a much more authentic feel to the final photo.

Infrared photography in Photoshop with cooling filter applied

After adding the cooling filter, it’s a good practice to go back and adjust your hue and saturation layer to tweak the resulting balance of the individual colors a bit further.

Final mage after Infrared photography in Photoshop

Parting thoughts on false-color infrared photography

The advice that can be given when dipping your feet into simulating false-color infrared photography in Photoshop is to view true false-color infrared photos made with this type of film.

I suggest the images of Richard Mosse and his work in the Congo to give a great example of the effects of this sort of photography.

Of course, there are many other examples, and a quick Google search will help you immensely. As you move forward, here are a few tips that will aid your image selection and processing for your simulations:

  • The infrared effect is based on the reflectance of chlorophyll, so choose images that have healthy green vegetation for the best results.
  • When shooting, go for the brightest lighting conditions possible.
  • The bright, mid-day sun makes for the best lighting. After you make your base color swaps using the channel mixer, experiment with adjusting the hue and saturation of the individual colors within your photo.
  • Don’t forget the benefits of creating Photoshop Actions! You can save all the adjustments for easy one-click applications later.

Perhaps the best part of creating the false-color infrared effect is that it preserves the unique effects of this sort of analog film photography, which as of 2007, is no longer produced.

It’s a dying art that we can enjoy for years to come with our digital photography. Again, it’s not for everyone, but it is a great way for you to create stunningly-surreal color images that will stand out from anything else.

Also be sure to check out my very first experience using an infrared-converted DSLR here!

Try out this effect of simulating false-color infrared photography in Photoshop, and please share your resulting images with us in the comments section. We’d love to see them.

The post Simulating False-Color Infrared Photography in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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