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Archive for September, 2019

Tips for Creating Awesome Double Exposures In-Camera

13 Sep

The post Tips for Creating Awesome Double Exposures In-Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

Tips for Creating Awesome Double Exposures In-Camera

Techniques for creating double exposures have been around since the beginning of film photography. While the days of being able to expose the same frame of film multiple times are mostly gone, a great many digital cameras do offer that functionality. While the technique can be unpredictable and hard to get right, that’s part of the charm of it (in my opinion) and what makes it so fun. This article provides you with a few tips to help you create double exposures in-camera.

What about Photoshop?

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Photoshop (and alternatives) offer an infinite number of ways to blend exposures, but doing it in-camera can lead to spontaneous and unpredictable results.

Of course, you don’t need to do it in-camera. The almighty powers of Photoshop absolutely give you a great deal of control over blending images. You didn’t need to do it in-camera in the film days either as you could sandwich negatives together in the darkroom before putting them in the enlarger. So yes, by all means, use Photoshop to your heart’s content, but if you want to inject a bit of unpredictability and spontaneity to the process, do think about trying to create a few in the camera.

Understand the functionality in your camera

This first step may seem obvious, but every camera that I’ve run across handles the settings for double exposures in different ways. Taking the time to learn and understand how to set up your camera for multiple exposures ensures that when you get out to start creating the images, you know exactly what’s going on. For example, unless I turn on the right setting, my camera will take a single sequence of images and then revert back to normal settings. This can be (and has been) frustrating when I’m lining up a second exposure of a moving subject and find that I’m back to taking a single image.

This is probably just a matter of reading your manual and then putting it into practice a few times in your backyard or somewhere where the results don’t matter.

Start simple

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While getting to grips with the technique, you can start simple with just a few moving elements to help you understand the process better.

When getting started with a technique like multiple exposures, it is easy to start snapping away without putting too much thought into it. The results can be less than inspiring and may even make you second guess the technique.

Try to keep it simple in the beginning. Instead of many exposures layered together, try to keep it to a simple double exposure until you figure out how the exposures work with one another. Of course, the results are almost always going to be unpredictable, but once you start to take a lot, you will quickly learn how to judge what two frames might look like on top of one another.

Look for bold shapes and textures

Image: Mixing silhouettes and textures is an effective way of creating bold double exposure images.

Mixing silhouettes and textures is an effective way of creating bold double exposure images.

One of the easiest ways to get results with double exposures is to overlay a texture onto a recognizable shape. Silhouettes of people work great for this. If you start your sequence with a  silhouette, you can then take a photo of something with a lot of texture and the shadows of the silhouette will reveal that texture in the final image.

Another simple one for you to try is to layer your main image on a background of clouds. The whole concept is simple and done a lot, but it is still effective. If you start with these simple processes, you will quickly start to see how you can use the technique for more complicated images.

Think in terms of design

Image: Finding things that match up together to make a cohesive image can be tricky, but when it hap...

Finding things that match up together to make a cohesive image can be tricky, but when it happens, the results speak for themselves.

Because you are layering your images, it can help if they work together with a theme or if the final image helps to convey a message. Keeping the various elements in your images (whether that be the subjects, colors, lighting, etc) in line with your intended end result can help for better images. It also helps to start with your final composition in mind. How will the various elements line up? How will they react and line up with one another? Is there a particular sort of framing that would help tie the whole thing together? Asking yourself these questions before your camera is even out of the bag can help your final images be the best they possibly can.

Go abstract

Image: The double-exposure effect can be weird and sometimes it’s best to embrace that weirdne...

The double-exposure effect can be weird and sometimes it’s best to embrace that weirdness.

Now, your images don’t have to be of anything at all. Don’t be afraid to go for the abstract (or non-objective if you prefer). You can layer a bunch of modern buildings (or the same building) together for some interesting effects where there is no real focal point.

You can do the same with multiple textures. Just roll with it and see what happens. You might find you have a bunch of images that don’t work, but you might also find that one that really, really does. Try looking for things with lines or shapes, without too much texture, that can overlap one another.

Block your lens

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To manage your backgrounds while creating a double exposure in the studio, cover a portion of your lens with a black card to avoid the background being exposed twice. In the top middle of the frame, you can see where that has happened.

Block your lens if you want to photograph the same subject, human or inanimate, multiple times in one frame. You can use this trick for photographing fireworks to help control your exposure. When you’re lining up your first exposure, cover your lens with a piece of black card so that you are blocking the part of the frame that will contain the subject of your second exposure. In a double exposure, this will stop the background being exposed twice. Your backgrounds will be darker, but your subject will also be clearer where it appears in the frame.

Use grids

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Turning on guides and grids in your camera can help you line up subjects between the multiple frames.

If your camera has the option for a grid overlay (rule of thirds) in the viewfinder, turning it on can help you to line up various elements throughout the multiple exposures.

It’s okay to post-process

Image: Not everything is going to go right all the time. If something doesn’t line up, like To...

Not everything is going to go right all the time. If something doesn’t line up, like Tower Bridge in this image, don’t be afraid to use Photoshop to help you get the results you were after.

Although this article is about creating double exposures in-camera, there is nothing wrong with taking your results and fine-tuning them afterward.

Did you overlay a silhouette with a texture but you don’t want the texture elsewhere in the frame? Photoshop can help. If it helps you to create what you had in your head, by all means, go for it.

That’s it

Creating double exposures in-camera is a finicky technique, but sometimes the results can be incredible. More important, it’s a technique that’s a lot of fun. I encourage you to go out and give it a try for yourself, and hopefully, some of these tips will make your results a bit more predictable.

Please share your results with us in the comments section – we’d love to see them!

 

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The post Tips for Creating Awesome Double Exposures In-Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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RawTherapee 5.7 update brings new Film Negative tool, improved star ratings

13 Sep

Free, Raw image developing app RawTherapee has been updated to version 5.7, gaining a Film Negative tool for processing raw images from film negatives, as well as support for viewing XMP/EXIF rating tags in RawTherapee’s own star rating system. New features aside, RawTherappe 5.7 also brings hundreds of bug fixes, according to the software’s changelog.

RawTherapee is free and open-source for users on Windows, macOS and Linux. The software is non-destructive, offering a variety of advanced editing tools for adjusting lighting, colors and details, including Film Simulation, Haze Removal, Color Toning, Defringe and more.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The X-A7 is Fujifilm’s first good entry-level mirrorless ILC

13 Sep

Back when Fujifilm announced the X-A5 in early 2018, it sounded like a really appealing entry-level ILC; in terms of spec, at least. It had an time-tested 24MP APS-C sensor, on-sensor PDAF, a flip-up touchscreen display, 4K video capture, a mic socket and great battery life.

Unfortunately, aside from image quality, the X-A5 turned out to be a pretty lousy camera. It was very sluggish and the autofocus system was unreliable. While it could indeed capture 4K video, it was at 15 frames per second, which is essentially an 8MP burst mode (or silent-era movie simulator). Everyone knows that Fujifilm is capable of making excellent cameras (like the X-T3), which made the X-A5 that much more disappointing.

The new X-A7 gives me hope. It’s way faster, has a more robust AF system, a fully articulating touchscreen, AF joystick, a USB-C port and oversampled 4K capture, all for under $ 700 with a lens. And it comes in mint green!

Aside from the color of the camera Fujifilm sent us, what grabbed my attention first was that 3.5″, 2.76 million-dot display, which is the best I’ve seen on a low-priced camera – by a large margin. The screen has a 16:9 aspect ratio, which means that you’ll get black margins when shooting stills. But if you’re into vlogging, that aspect ratio, paired with the built-in 2.5mm mic socket (a 3.5mm adapter is included) and oversampled, uncropped 4K/30p make the X-A7 an appealing option, unless its 15 minute recording limit is an issue.

In order to incorporate the large LCD, Fujifilm has had to redesign the back of the camera. The four-way controller has been replaced by an 8-way joystick which, while on the small side, works well.

Since the four-way controller is gone, getting at some settings is a bit harder. Accessing the touch-enabled Q.Menu requires two taps on the display, while the self-timer needs to be assigned to a custom button (Strangely, there’s no way to assign the Q.Menu to a custom button – at least, not yet.)

The rear dial moved to a more traditional position on the top plate, as opposed to the one that was upward-facing dial on the back of earlier models. The power switch has been transformed from a switch to a button that sits in-between all of the dials. As someone who was constantly turning the X-A5 (and X-T100) on and off accidentally due to the switch’s placement, I appreciate this change.

The X-A7 has a refined, touch-enabled menu system

While I was drooling over the display, my colleague Carey was scrolling through the menus, noting how much more responsive they were than on the X-A5 and X-T100. While we can’t put a number to it, it’s clear that the X-A7 got a processor bump of some sort. I wondered if that translated to faster burst shooting or a larger buffer, but it did not: it’s still 6 fps, for up to 4-5 shots.

Pressing the menu button brings up this new on-screen UI

After stealing the camera back from Carey, I toyed with the new touchscreen interface, which has simple on-screen buttons for adjusting focus mode, brightness, skin softening and a few other things, depending on the shooting mode. A button for accessing the touch-enabled Q.Menu is also here.

One very cool thing that Fujifilm snuck in appears when you change the Film Simulation mode: a side-by-side view showing comparing your current mode versus the other options. You can even move a slider (shown in the video above) back and forth. This isn’t a feature I’ve been dreaming about, but now that I’ve seen it, I’m hoping that it appears on more cameras.

It’s nice to see that Fujifilm has released a camera that actually surpasses our expectations for an entry-level product

Seeing how I’ve only used the camera for a day, it’s too early to make any judgments about image quality or autofocus performance. Fujifilm says that the 24MP sensor is newly developed, with copper wiring and fast readout speeds (something it also said back when the X-T2 was introduced). The autofocus system has phase-detect points across the whole frame and offers both face and eye detection. Fujifilm has hinted that new AF algorithms will allow the X-A7 to perform as well or better than the X-T30/X-T3. We’ll see how it does when we put it in front of a weaving bicycle when a production model appears.

After putting out a bunch of really disappointing X-A series cameras, it’s nice to see that Fujifilm has listened to their customers (and perhaps some camera review websites) and released a camera that actually surpasses our expectations for an entry-level product, assuming that the autofocus really is better than the X-A5. How it holds up against competitive products from Canon, Olympus, Panasonic and Sony remains to be seen, but based on my initial tinkering with the camera, I’m definitely impressed.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm updates X-T3 firmware to fix an issue that can occur when shooting in ‘S’ drive mode

13 Sep

Fujifilm has released a small firmware update for its X-T3 mirrorless camera that fixes a specific ‘phenomenon’ that can require you to turn your camera off and back on again.

Firmware version 3.01 (previously version 3.00) addresses an issue wherein a message reading ‘turn off the camera and turn on again’ can appear when shooting in the ’S’ drive mode while repeatedly taking photos within a short timeframe.

Aside from that, Fujifilm doesn’t mention any other fixes in this update, even basic bug fixes.

You can find information on how to install the firmware and download the update on Fujifilm’s website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Samyang’s new XEEN CF Cine Prime full-frame lenses detailed ahead of Q3 launch

13 Sep

Samyang has launched its new line of XEEN CF Cine Prime full-frame lenses made from lightweight carbon fiber. The XEEN CF will be offered in 16mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm options for Canon EF, Sony E and PL mounts. The model features a T1.5 aperture, 11-blade diaphragm and luminous numbers on the lens rings for making adjustments in dark conditions.

The XEEN CF lenses feature the company’s proprietary X-Coating for minimized reflections paired with controlled ghosting and flares for halation, producing a ‘dramatic effect.’ Users are promised ‘beautiful bokeh’ thanks to the 11-blade diaphragm and excellent low-light performance from the bright aperture.

The lenses are designed for large format and 8K sensors, offering the durability and light weight of carbon fiber at 0.9kg (2lbs) to 1.1kg (2.4lbs), depending on the model. Due to the low weight, the new XEEN CF lenses can be used with gimbals and drones in addition to movie cameras.

The company will initially launch its 24mm, 50mm and 85mm lenses in Q3 2019; the 16mm and 35mm options won’t be released until early next year. Prices are unclear at this time, but ePhotozine claims the lenses will be showcased at the 2019 IBC Exhibition in Amsterdam from September 13 to 17.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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X-Rite releases i1Display Studio and Pro Plus color calibration systems for professionals

13 Sep

Color management company X-Rite has introduced i1Display Studio and i1Display Pro Plus, two new display color calibration products for photographers and other imaging professionals. The products offer advanced display calibration, the Pro Plus building upon the Studio’s features to include capabilities for professionals who use ‘super-bright, HD, and HDR’ displays.

The i1Display Studio features the i1 colorimeter for use with the i1Studio software, offering display calibration to ensure a consistent color profile over time. The product features Flare Correct, Intelligent Iterative Profiling, and X-Rite Ambient Light Measurement.

In addition to support for NTSC, PAL, DCI-P3, SECAM, Rec. 709, and Rec. 2020 video standards support, i1Display Studio allows users to control the color adjustment, color match up to four displays, validate results, and get reminders when it is time to re-profile a display.

i1Display Pro Plus builds upon these features, offering the i1Display Pro Plus colorimeter and i1Profiler software. This product adds support for accurately measuring brightness and luminance levels up to 2,000 nits, BT.1886 default gamma curve, and a new Black Current Subtraction tech that X-Rite says is particularly useful for displays offering close to zero black point, including OLED. The company includes a USB-C to USB-A adapter for USB-C compatibility.

Both products can be used to calibrate monitors, projectors, and mobile devices like tablets. The i1Display Studio is available now for $ 179 USD and the https://xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?id=2640&catid=156&utm_source=Adestra&utm_medium=email&utm_content=i1Display%20Pro%20Plus%2C&utm_campaign=xrite_i1DisplayPro_pressrelease is available now for $ 299 USD.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon PowerShot G5 X Mark II review

12 Sep

Introduction

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Silver Award

82%
Overall score

Canon’s PowerShot G5 X Mark II is a high-end compact camera with a versatile lens, great controls and a modern 1″-type sensor. For a small camera, we find the grip to be generous and secure, and the updated processor combines with the new sensor for some seriously responsive performance. The pop-up electronic viewfinder is a nice touch and the camera also comes with fast burst shooting as well as good-quality 4K video.

In creating the G5 X Mark II, Canon has clearly taken more design inspiration from the G7 X lineup than the original G5 X. Gone from the old camera is the centrally mounted viewfinder and fully articulating screen, but the new camera is more svelte and pocketable as a result. Plus, Canon has extended the lens’ zoom reach while maintaining a fast aperture range, which is a nice bonus. On the not-so-good side of things, for some reason Canon has decided that 24p video recording is unnecessary, there’s no microphone jack, some customization options are limited, and the small battery means you’ll likely want to carry a spare if you’re a heavy shooter.

Key specifications:

  • 20MP 1″-type stacked CMOS sensor
  • 24-120mm equiv. F1.8-2.8 lens
  • Pop-up electronic viewfinder and flash
  • Touchscreen tilts up 180° and down 90°
  • 8fps burst shooting with autofocus, 30fps Raw burst mode
  • 4K/30p, 1080/60p video recording with IS (no 24p options)
  • 1080/120p slow motion video with no audio or autofocus
  • Wi-Fi + Bluetooth wireless connectivity
  • USB 3.1 (with USB-C connector) for data transfer and charging
  • 230-shot battery life (180 using the EVF) per CIPA standard
Out-of-camera JPEG
ISO 125 | 1/1000 sec | F4
Photo by Jeff Keller

The G5 X Mark II looks, in many ways, to be a near-ideal travel or family camera for enthusiast photographers that like having a dedicated camera with them at all times – does it live up to this promise? Time to dig in and find out in our full review.


What’s new and how it compares

The G5 X II looks a lot like a cross between Canon’s own G7 X III and Sony’s RX100-series – here’s how it compares inside and out.

Read more

Body, controls and handling

On the G5 X II, Canon’s fitted one of the nicest grips we’ve ever used on such a small camera – but there’s more to it.

Read more

Image quality

Take a deep-dive into the G5 X II’s image quality, including how its lens performs.

Read more

Autofocus, Raw burst and video performance

Autofocus and video performance from the G5 X II are pretty good – but are they enough to stand out among strong competition?

Read more

Conclusion

Canon’s PowerShot G5 X Mark II earns a solid silver award – here’s the full story.

Read more

Sample gallery

From camping to cats and the occasional dog, we’ve got a full sample gallery from the G5 X II for your perusal.

See the gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Top Tips for Photographing the Best a City has to Offer in 48-hours

12 Sep

The post Top Tips for Photographing the Best a City has to Offer in 48-hours appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

photographing a city-matt-murray

Always be on the lookout for interesting scenes in cities. I saw this view in Taipei from a metro train and went back at dusk.

You have two days and two nights to photograph a city you’ve never been to before. How will you make the most of this opportunity and come away with amazing photos?

You could just turn up without much advance thought and deliver a stunning set of images that fits the brief perfectly. Leaving things to chance is not always the best plan, though. You will be better prepared and more confident if you research and plan your trip in advance.

Whether you’re working for a client, an editor, or taking photos for your own portfolio, these tips will help you make the most of your trip. Here is a guide to photographing a city and the best it has to offer in 48 hours.

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Find what is unique about your destination and capture it.

What’s unique about the city?

The first question you need to ask is what makes the city unique? Does it have stunning architecture? An incredible food scene? Unique modes of transport? Vibrant markets? Make sure you keep this in mind as you plan your trip.

What types and styles of images are you being asked to deliver?

What type of shots are you, your client, or your editor expecting? Find out what their expectations are in as much detail as possible. Is there a particular style or theme you need to shoot for? Will your images be used to accompany a story on a particular subject, for advertising, or as a standalone photo essay?

Think of the final use of your photos. Will you need to capture landscape or portrait orientation photos? Do you need to shoot images with negative space to allow for text to be overlaid?

Image style is an important consideration. Is your client looking for bright, colorful photos? Images showing well-known landmarks? Hidden gems? Photos with a shallow depth of field? Moody black and white images? Photos of people experiencing the city? It’s important to get agreement on this too.

Create a mood board

Visualizing your shots before you go can help the planning process. One way you can achieve this is by creating a mood board for the trip, showing the types and the style of photos you will aim to produce. The good news is, it’s easy to do with a tool such as Pinterest.

A mood board can also be handy if you don’t have a formal brief. If you create one for yourself or your client showing the type and style of images you propose to take, this can stimulate further discussion. It might be exactly what they’re after, or it could prompt them to get involved in the process and suggest changes.

photographing a city-matt-murray

On my list of shots for Taronga Zoo was an iconic view of the Sydney with animals – thankfully, this giraffe helped me out!

Weather and climate

The next thing to research is the expected weather and climate at your destination. Bear in mind, some destinations, such as London and Melbourne, are notorious for variable conditions all year round. Getting a sense of what to expect will help with your daily planning and can guide your choices for clothing and equipment.

For example, if you’re heading to Asia during the wet season, you’ll need to think about taking clothing and camera gear that is water-resistant, whereas if you’re on a trip to somewhere hot and dry, such as Dubai or Death Valley, you may need to consider a hat and sunscreen.

Next, look at the sunrise and sunset times for the city when you will be there and plan your day accordingly. Make a note of them and think of the most important shots you need to capture at those times. These times will also indicate the number of daylight hours you have on location.

photographing a city-matt-murray

Autumn in Sydney was a good opportunity to capture golden leaves.

Online planning resources

Two resources that can help you are the Photographers Ephemeris and PhotoPills. These handy guides for photographers also give you information like how long the blue hour and golden hour last for, the direction of the sun at sunrise and sunset, and much more. This can be very helpful, though, remember, in built-up environments, you’ll never truly know how the light falls on your scene until you’re there.

Background city research

Researching your destination is one of the most important things to do before you leave. Learn as much as you can. Potential sources of information include travel magazines, travel blogs, official tourism websites, and YouTube videos. It’s also worthwhile downloading guidebooks from companies such as Lonely Planet, or if you’re on a tight budget, you could borrow them from a friend or your local library.

As you’re doing this research, make a note of previous coverage the destination has had in published articles or photo essays. If you plan to use the same or similar angle, aim to capture the destination in a unique or better way.

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Image research

Pay close attention to the types of images used to illustrate and promote this city. What style are they? Do they fall into a particular genre? What kind of lenses do you think the photographer used? This is all useful information.

Then turn to more visual references. What kind of images show up for your destination using a Google image search? Is there a famous view of the city you’d like to capture? Next, search on Instagram. Look at images used by the official city or country accounts, popular hashtags for your destination and even geolocation image searches.

Take a look at recent Instagram posts, carefully reading the description. Was the image taken in the last few days? If it was, this might help you understand the weather or lighting conditions at your destination. If there is no context to when the image was taken, it could’ve been from last month or last year.

Another key place for researching your destination is stock photography sites. What images are the best sellers for the city? Keep these in mind when you’re shooting. As well as your main client, think of other markets where you could sell your images such as stock libraries.

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Always look for detail shots at your destination that show the way of life.

Create your shot list

I love travel photography as it includes so many other genres. On a single assignment, you can include landscapes, cityscapes, street scenes, portraits, food shots, detail shots, architecture, and documentary-style images. Remember this as you create your shot list.

First, lock in the locations you need to be for sunrise and sunset and have a rough plan for the rest of the day. Plot these locations on a map and make sure you’re leaving yourself enough time to look around and photograph unexpected sights. Sometimes the best shots at a destination are not the things you expect to see, but things you didn’t expect to see.

Then list the next most important shots for you or your client. Make these a priority.

Try to capture well-known landmarks in a new or interesting way. This could be through the frame of a doorway or window, a reflection, or a completely different angle or viewpoint not used before.

Jot down a reminder to get a good variety of images at each location you visit – landscape orientation, portrait orientation, images with negative space, and images that crop well for Instagram. Also, think back to why this city is unique or exotic and make a note to get images of the food, people, clothing – anything that’s different.

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Booking your hotel

Now you’ve created your shot list, look at the key locations on your map, and book a hotel nearby. It can be tempting to save money by staying at a hotel further away, but being close to your proposed photography locations is a huge advantage. Not only will it cut down on travel time, but you will also have the advantage of popping back to your room whenever you like throughout the day.

Quite often when I’m photographing a city, I head back to my hotel for a break. You can have a quick rest, grab a hot or cold drink, back up your images, and review the progress you’ve made ready for the next round of photos. You may even need time to warm up or cool down depending on the weather.

With your hotel search, always be on the lookout for historic or beautiful hotels that could provide additional photographic opportunities for you. Also, remember to choose a hotel where you feel like your gear will be safe when you’re not there.

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Carry a travel tripod so you can capture scenes with a slow shutter speed.

Packing your kit

Versatility is the key when packing your kit. Fast zoom lenses are generally the travel photographer’s best friend. Also, look at the notes you made during your research. What type of lenses do you think the photographers used? Does your client expect any images with a very shallow depth of field? Do they want images taken with long telephoto lenses or ultra-wide angle lenses?

Plan your kit, taking into account these considerations along with the expected weather conditions. For a two-day trip, I would typically take the following:

  • Two camera bodies that use the same batteries and lenses, at least one of which is weather resistant.
  • Two zooms covering a wide focal range, at least one of which is weather resistant.
  • One or two small fast prime lenses – these are very handy for low light conditions and shallow depth of field shots.
  • As many reliable high-quality SD cards as you have. Make sure you format them before your trip.
  • As many batteries as you have for your camera system.
  • A small travel tripod and some neutral density filters.

You can see more about the travel kit I take in my article, The Best Fujifilm X-Series Kits for Travel Photography

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Sydney Opera House sails with the Sydney Harbour Bridge in the background.

Traveling to your destination

As your trip approaches, keep an eye on the weather and current events for the city you’re heading to. Will this present any issues or challenges? Is there other gear you may need to bring? As I write this, I am preparing for a few days in Hong Kong, where there are currently protests taking place. I don’t think these protests will affect my trip or what I plan to photograph, but it’s good to always good to stay up-to-date with what’s going on.

Before I arrive at my destination, I always sort out some way to use my iPhone when I get there. This can mean either having a SIM card for the country I’m visiting or setting up international roaming before I go.

On the way from the airport or train station to my hotel, I look for interesting things to photograph. I have my phone at the ready with maps loaded up tracking the journey I’m taking. If I see something interesting, I screenshot the map, so I have the exact location on my phone for future reference.

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Children playing in the Faroe Islands photographed on a telephoto lens.

Once you’ve arrived

You’ve arrived at your hotel, dumped your bag and are now ready to hit the streets and tick off that shot list. Before you go, make sure you have everything you need and leave anything you won’t need at the hotel. Remember to go easy on the air conditioning or heating – extreme temperature changes can fog up your camera lenses.

Take a few minutes to double-check your camera (especially your ISO and image quality settings), make sure you have fully-charged batteries and formatted memory cards. Then synchronize the clocks on your cameras at local time.

Regardless of the time I arrive, I always try to hit the streets as soon as I can to get a feel for the place. In tropical locations, shooting conditions are not always ideal during the middle of the day when it’s very bright with the sun overhead. It’s still possible, however, to look for opportunities to keep shooting. On a recent trip to Indonesia, I found the most beautiful light in a semi-covered market place in Borobudur. I took some of my favorite shots of the trip at that market.

photographing a city-matt-murray

Borobudur Market.

After the sun is well and truly below the horizon, you may think it’s time to head back to the hotel, but always see if there are opportunities to photograph food vendors or night markets. You’ll need either a fast prime or zoom lens in conjunction with using a higher ISO to capture handheld shots or a tripod for longer exposures.

Backups

When you’re finished shooting for the day, it’s time to head back to your hotel and backup your images.

For each trip, I create a new Lightroom catalog on my laptop. I then import the images into Lightroom, specifying that the images should be copied from my SD cards to an SSD hard drive plugged into my MacBook.

After the import, I copy these folders and the Lightroom catalog to a second SSD drive. I always keep these SSD hard drives in separate locations – one with me in my camera bag, and one in my luggage. As I review my shots in Lightroom, if there are any that I think are perfect for my needs or my client, I make another backup of those select images to DropBox. When I get home, I transfer the folders and Lightroom catalog from my laptop straight to my desktop computer.

photographing a city-matt-murray

Final thoughts

I hope these tips will help you think about what you need to plan and research when you’re in a city for the first time on assignment.

Always remember, though, despite the amount of research and planning you do, things are often out of your hands. If you can’t get that iconic shot due to weather conditions, street closures, scaffolding or who knows what else, don’t beat yourself up too much about it. Instead, concentrate on other opportunities that you can capture while you’re there to make the most of your time.

Do you have any other tips you’d like to share on photographing a city in 48 hours? Share with us in the comments!

 

photographing a city in 48 hours

The post Top Tips for Photographing the Best a City has to Offer in 48-hours appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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Back to Basics: Understanding the “Sunny 16 Rule” in Photography

12 Sep

The post Back to Basics: Understanding the “Sunny 16 Rule” in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

sunny-16-rule-in-photography

In life, we are sometimes met with certain inalienable truths; water will always flow downhill, there will always be an unhappy baby on your flight, and the milkshake machine at your favorite fast food place will always be broken when you need it the most. There are also some self-evident truths that we must accept when it comes to photography; one being, one day, you will need to set your own exposure manually. If you’ve been shooting exclusively in Auto Mode or Aperture and Shutter Priority Modes, this can be an enormous challenge.

Take heart! I’m about to show you one of the easiest and most long-standing methods for calculating exposures. Using it will help you almost always get a usable baseline exposure when shooting your camera in full manual mode. Yes, really.

It’s called the Sunny 16 Rule, and it’s going to be your best friend.

Back to Basics: Understanding the "Sunny 16 Rule" in Photography

You may very well have heard of it before but never fully understood how simple it truly is to implement (and modify) this handy little formula to fit the situation in which you find yourself shooting.

Getting to know the Sunny 16 Rule

Understanding the Sunny 16 Rule couldn’t be more simple. It’s all based around the relationships between our three key elements of exposure: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

Sunny 16 had its roots in film photography when it was used to help photographers figure out their exposure when a light meter wasn’t available. However, it works perfectly well with digital photography too. In fact, since we have the added convenience of on-the-fly ISO adjustments with our digital cameras, the Sunny 16 Rule becomes even more universally useful.

sunny-16-rule-in-photography

As you might have guessed, the concept of the Sunny 16 Rule begins with bright sunlight and setting our aperture to…*drum roll*…f/16. Bright sunlight refers to unobstructed sunlight on a cloudless day; think noon with a clear sky, and its brightness is virtually constant.

After we’ve got our aperture set to f/16, we can now dial in our shutter speed based on the ISO we happen to be shooting. To calculate your shutter speed based on Sunny 16, all we have to do is put “1” over our ISO. This will be your shutter speed.

Keep in mind that some cameras measure exposure in full, half or third stops and your shutter speed might not be exactly the same as your ISO. For example, in half-stop increments, if you are shooting ISO 400 then your exposure would be (for slight underexposure) f/16 at 1/500th of a second. At ISO 100 your settings would be f/16 at 1/125th of a second. For ISO 800 it would be 1/1000th of a second and so forth.

As far as ISO settings are concerned, it is a good practice to “set it and forget it.” There’s not much need to adjust the ISO as we can vary our exposure using our aperture settings – unless the scene dictates otherwise…more on this in just a bit.

Back to Basics: Understanding the "Sunny 16 Rule" in Photography

Why the Sunny 16 Rule is so useful

The reason the Sunny 16 Rule is such a fantastic concept is due to the fact it gives us a usable exposure setting based on what will likely be the brightest light you will encounter – the sun. 

Once you know what your shutter speed will be at a given ISO and f/16 in bright sunlight, you can essentially estimate any exposures for darker environments. The reason for this is that ISO, aperture, and shutter speed are all connected. You can adjust each relative to the another so that you can control your exposures based on the needs of a particular scene. If you’d like to learn a little more about how ISO, aperture and shutter speed relate to one another, have a look at this great article on understanding the exposure triangle.

Perhaps one of the best things about working with the Sunny 16 rule is that it’s a great way to teach yourself to read light and adjust your exposure based around the creative requirements for your photo. Let’s look at some considerations to take into account when you need a little more control over your photographs when basing your exposures around the Sunny 16 concept.

sunny-16-rule-in-photography

How to modify the Sunny 16 Rule

Years ago, when I first heard of the Sunny 16 Rule, my first thought was “That’s great, but what if I don’t want to shoot at f/16?”

Indeed, a great question.

What happens when you need a more shallow depth of field than f/16 can produce? Alternatively, what if the indicated ISO-based shutter speed just isn’t fast enough or slow enough for your subject? Furthermore, you definitely won’t always photograph in blazingly bright sunlight (ironically not ideal for most photography).

The good news is that the Sunny 16 Rule is incredibly flexible.

Remember, the Sunny 16 Rule does nothing more than eliminate variables in your exposure to produce a baseline camera setting which you can then manipulate given your particular needs.

sunny-16-rule-in-photography

Virtually identical exposures in direct sunlight based on the Sunny 16 Rule with constant f/16 apertures and ISO-dependent shutter speeds.

For example, let’s say you’re shooting a subject that requires a more shallow depth of field, like a portrait or still life that is in bright sunlight. At ISO 100, your resulting Sunny 16 exposure would be f/16 at 1/125. For reference, here’s a sample photo I shot at those settings in direct afternoon sunlight.

Back to Basics: Understanding the "Sunny 16 Rule" in Photography

Needless to say that if I open up my aperture to f/2.8 (five full stops wider) in order to better blur the background, the resulting image will be completely overexposed, and looks something like this:

Image: Yes…there is a photo there.

Yes…there is a photo there.

So, how to remedy this problem? Since we are working from the Sunny 16 Rule, all we have to do is apply some basic photographic principles (remember the exposure triangle?) to normalize our exposure based on our new, wider aperture.

Seeing as we opened up our aperture by five stops, we simply need to increase our shutter speed by five stops to compensate.

So if my initial shutter speed were 1/125th at f/16, my new adjusted shutter speed setting at f/2.8 would be 1/4000th. Here is the resulting exposure:

Image: Blurred background and a normalized exposure based on the Sunny 16 Rule.

Blurred background and a normalized exposure based on the Sunny 16 Rule.

The same is true in the case of fast-moving subjects. If you’re experiencing unwanted subject motion at, say, 1/125th of a second at f/16, and you want to try a faster shutter speed of 1/500th of a second to help arrest the motion, you need to compensate for the faster shutter speed with a corresponding wider aperture setting to allow more light to come into the camera. In this case, 1/500th of a second – two full stops faster than 1/125th – so we would open our aperture by two stops from f/16 to f/8.

Some adjusted Sunny 16 baseline exposures

If you’re wondering about lighting situations other than bright sun, here’s a quick (but by no means definitive) list of baseline aperture adjustments derived from the Sunny 16 Rule. I’ve listed Sunny 16 at the top as a baseline exposure at ISO 100 and 1/125th of a second. To adjust your exposures for varying degrees of brightness, all you need to do is change your aperture.

  • Direct bright sunlight with harsh shadows: f/16 at 1/125th of a second and ISO 100
  • Indirect bright sun with soft shadows (shade/cloudy): f/11 at 1/125th and ISO 100
  • Overcast skies with little to no shadows: f/8 at 1/125th and ISO 100
  • Dusk/morning light: f/4 at 1/125 and ISO 100

I also want to point out the elephant in the room which is holding a big neon-yellow sign that reads, “Why not just bump up the ISO?”

In short, you can adjust your ISO settings to compensate for more or less light in the scene. Modern cameras are becoming better and better at reducing high ISO digital noise. The Sunny 16 Rule was based on the fact that most film cameras are limited to the ISO of the film used. In these cases, the ability to read and understand light becomes paramount.

The concept of Sunny 16 gives us digital shooters a way to nail exposures (or come close) every time in-camera without constantly checking our images after each shot.

Final thoughts on the Sunny 16 Rule

Of course, as with most things, the Sunny 16 Rule isn’t a true “rule” in the sense that you must follow it to the letter. Instead, it is a rule in the way that gives something to relate one thing to another; in our case it allows us to relate the luminance of available light to our camera settings to achieve predictable and reproducible results.

Sunny 16 is also a great learning tool to help us understand the nature and measurement of light. Going further, it is a guide that is extremely versatile once you understand just a few basic principles of exposure. I, for one, feel as if I don’t use Sunny 16 enough in my work. I think that is about to change.

Do you practice the Sunny 16 Rule? How has it affected your shooting? Let us know in the comments below!

 

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The post Back to Basics: Understanding the “Sunny 16 Rule” in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Irix announces an 11mm T4.3 cine lens for Canon EF, Sony E, MFT and Arri PL mounts

12 Sep

Lens manufacturer Irix has launched a new 11mm T4.3 lens for Canon EF, Sony E, MFT and Arri PL camera systems.

The lens, which appears to be a cine version of its 11mm F/4 lens, is constructed with a magnesium housing with various rubber seals for weather resistance. It’s comprised of 16 elements including four high-refractive index (HR) elements, three aspherical elements and two low-dispersion (ED) elements.

The lens weighs 1.1kg (2.43lbs) and features Irix’s Magnetic Mount System, which makes it easy to attach compatible accessories, including the lens hood. Irix has also added its new Multi Start Thread focusing mechanism, which ‘allows quiet and precise focusing even under adverse weather conditions such as rain, humidity or extreme temperatures.’

Other features include a 95mm diameter front flange and Mod 0.8 standard geared rings.

The 11mm T4.3 cine lens will be offered in Arri PL, Canon EF, MFT and Sony E mounts. Pricing and availability has not yet been announced, but ‘will be available shortly.’ For more information, keep up to date on the Irix website.

Irix Cine 11mm T4.3

IRIX, known for high mechanical and optical quality, pleasantly presents the 11mm T4.3 – the second full-frame lens from its new cinematography line. Enjoy the new perspective of super panoramic film shots made with Irix Cine lens!

Irix 11mm T4.3 is the second unique lens from the new Cine line. Its extremely short focal length, rectilinear image projection and the large image circle of 43.3mm (covering the full-frame format) make it one of the most outstanding cine lenses on the market. Depending on the diagonal of the sensor, the lens can provide a moderately wide angle of view for classic wide-angle shots or super-panoramic 123-degree viewing angle in a 2.39:1 widescreen format. Irix 11mm T4.3 thanks to its unique parameters, provides a perspective not available in film optics, thus releasing creativity in creating dynamic shots.SAR

The same, but different optics
The lens optical system is based on the new optical formula, developed especially for cinematic purpose. It consists of 16 optical elements, which four are made with high refractive index (HR) glass, three other have aspherical surfaces and the last two are made with low-dispersion glass (ED). The use of the large front lens and other special glass elements provides crisp cinematic shots in a resolution up to 8K while keeping the focus “breathing” effect at the lowest level. The lens offers a large maximum T number of 4.3 which can be reduced to T22, thanks to the rounded shape of iris blades.

Functional and highly innovative
When designing the lens mechanical system of 11mm T4.3, we used newly developed technical solutions that have been successfully implemented in the Irix Cine 150mm T3.0 lens. The new Multi Start Thread focusing mechanism allows quiet and precise focusing even under adverse weather conditions such as rain, humidity or extreme temperatures. The focusing geared ring rotates 180 degrees and depending on the lens version, has a focusing scale with metric or imperial units.

Thanks to another innovative solution like the adaptive ring, the Irix Cine 11mm T4.3 ensures great ergonomics of operation both by hand and with follow focus mechanism. Moreover, despite the very short optical system layout, geared rings of focus and aperture were placed at the same height as in other Irix Cine lenses – all for better ergonomics and more intuitive use.

The exceptional functionality is a distinctive feature of all Irix products. The same applies to the Irix Cine 11mm T4.3, whose extremely compact design (weights 1,1 kg) has been also equipped with an innovative Magnetic Mount System for accessories. The MMS system allows quick and easy attachment of a variety of dedicated accessories. The lens hood included in the kit with the lens is the first element of the MMS system. The system will be expanded with further accessories in the future.

Prepared for all weather conditions
The ultra-wide field of view of the Irix 11mm T4.3 means that its natural work environment is outdoor. It’s durable magnesium housing and numerous rubber seals guarantee the safety of both the optical system and the camera sensor in every weather conditions.

Designed to work in accordance with film industry standards
The 11mm T4.3 is another lens of the Irix Cine line that proves the newest technical solutions can perfectly harmonize with well-established film industry standards. The lens has a front flange with a diameter of 95mm and geared rings in the Mod 0.8 standard, which ensures its compatibility with most cine gear accessories. Attention to maintaining the standard also applies to the family of Irix cine lenses whose geared rings are in the same position and have unified rotation angle.

Irix Cinematic
The new line of Irix Cine Lenses is created in close cooperation with professional filmmakers; their ideas and suggestions were an important factor in the design process. The designers earlier experience in the field of photography led us to create new and better solutions for Irix Cine products.

Available camera mounts
The new Irix Cine 11mm T4.3 will be offered in following lens mounts: Canon EF, Sony E, MFT and Arri PL.

Price and availability
The price and availability of the Irix Cine 11mm T4.3 lens will be announced shortly.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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