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Archive for April, 2019

Weekly Photography Challenge – Dogs

27 Apr

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Dogs appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is DOGS!

Andreas Wagner

Go out and capture your little doggy friends doing those awesome things they do – like running, jumping, barking, eating your sofa, etc. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Joe Caione

 

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting DOGS

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

Five Tips for Creative Pet Photography

Why Taking Pictures of Your Pets Will Help Make You a Better Photographer

6 Tips for Working with Unruly Animals in Pet Photography

5 Adorable Pet Photos [and How to Make your Shots even Cuter]

4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – DOGS

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSdogs to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Dogs appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Viltrox announces 85mm F1.8 autofocus lens for Sony E-mount cameras

27 Apr

Chinese camera accessory manufacturer Viltrox has announced a new 85mm F1.8 autofocus lens for Sony E-mount camera systems.

The lens, which has an aperture range of F1.8 to F16, is designed for full-frame Sony cameras, but also works as a 127.5mm equivalent on APS-C cameras. It’s constructed of ten elements in seven groups, including one extra-low dispersion element and four specialty elements made from ‘highly transparent glass,’ which Viltrox says reduces aberrations and improves color rendering. Viltrox also uses an ‘HD Nano’ multi-layer coating on individual elements to minimize ghosting and flares.

A stepping motor (STM) is used to drive the autofocus and the lens features a minimum focusing distance of 80cm (2.62ft). The front filter size is 72mm and integrated contacts power the aperture mechanism and deliver EXIF data to compatible Sony cameras.

Viltrox doesn’t provide the dimensions of the lens, but it weighs 636g (1.4lbs). One of the more interesting elements of the lens is an integrated microUSB port located on the rear metal mount of the lens. This connector is used to upgrade the lens’ firmware, which is currently listed as version 1.01 at launch.

B&H currently has the Viltrox 85mm F1.8 STM Lens for Sony E-mount available to pre-order for $ 379. The expected shipping date is May 6, 2019.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Gannett launches Imagn image licensing and wire service sourced from the USA Today Network

27 Apr

Gannett, the media company behind USA Today and dozens of local news publications, has announced the launch of Imagn, its own image licensing and wire service. Imagn is a rebrand of Gannett’s USA Today Sports Images business unit, which has been expanded to provide news and media outlets with images related to entertainment, breaking news, and sports.

The images are sourced from the USA Today Network, which pulls the content from USA Today and the 109 local news brands owned by Gannett, according to a press release from the company. In addition to images from photojournalists working across the USA Today Network, Gannett says specialized images are provided through Imagn from its partner SIPA USA.

The platform kicks off with 600,000 images per year sourced from 300 sports photographers across the nation. That number will grow to 1.8 million images per year under this expansion, Gannett revealed, with the company claiming Imagn is now one of the biggest sources of original editorial images in the US.

Imagn offers both flat fee and subscription-based purchasing options; the subscription is split into three tiers based on image subject matter and offers unlimited images for editorial use. Given Gannett’s vast number of local newsrooms, the company may be uniquely positioned to offer a large library of images from smaller regions around the nation.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Facebook, Instagram sue company that made over $9M selling fake likes and followers

27 Apr

Despite Instagram’s Terms of Use (TOU) saying purchasing likes, followers and general activity isn’t permitted, there’s no shortage of services available that’ll do just that. Instagram has long tried to shut these services down, but now the issue is going to be challenged in court for one particular New Zealand-based company.

Facebook has announced in a post on its Newsroom website that it and Instagram have filed a lawsuit in United States federal court against a company and three individuals located in New Zealand. According to the complaint, the defendants used various websites and corporations ‘to sell fake engagement services to Instagram users.’

A screenshot provided in the complaint showing the pricing of LikeSocial, a website Facebook and Instagram allege the defendants used to sell inauthentic Instagram activity.

Jessica Romero, Director of Platform Enforcement and Litigation, writes in the post titled ‘Preventing Inauthentic Behavior on Instagram’ that ‘By filing the lawsuit, we are sending a message that this kind of fraudulent activity is not tolerated on our services, and we will act to protect the integrity of our platform.’ She later adds:

Inauthentic activity has no place on our platform. That’s why we devote significant resources to detecting and stopping this behavior, including blocking the creation and use of fake accounts, and using machine learning technology to proactively find and remove inauthentic activity from Instagram.

The lawsuit specifically seeks to stop the defendants from ‘Engaging and profiting in the sale of fake likes, views and followers on Instagram,’ ‘Violating our Terms of Use and Community Guidelines’ and ‘Violating the Computer Fraud and Abuse Act and other California laws for distributing fake likes on Instagram even after their access was revoked and their accounts were suspended.’

According to the complaint, the defendants amassed roughly $ 9,430,000 from the allegedly fraudulent services and companies. Some of the specific websites mentioned in the complaint include SocialEnvy.co, IGFamous.net, Social10x.com, smseries.co.nz, SocialSteeze.net and LikeSocial.co.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: DJI Osmo Pocket

26 Apr

DJI Osmo Pocket
$ 350 | dji.com

The Osmo Pocket is an all-in-one camera with a built-in stabilizer that is, as the name suggests, pocket sized and incredibly easy to use. The camera is similar to what is found on DJI’s drones and can shoot 4K video and still images in a variety of shooting modes. The Osmo Pocket is aimed primarily at vloggers, and the product’s specs seem to reflect that. The camera is housed inside a three-axis gimbal which keeps footage steady even as you’re doing the walk and talk.

Although the tech inside the camera and the gimbal aren’t particularly revolutionary, the Osmo Pocket is unique because it combines these two products into one, creating a single pocket-sized product that produces quality footage quickly.

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Key specifications

  • 12MP resolution
  • 1/2.3″ CMOS sensor
  • Max image size of 4000 x 3000 pixels
  • 4K Ultra HD video: 3840 x 2160 24/25/30/48/50/60p,
  • FHD: 1920×1080 24/25/30/48/50/60/120p
  • ISO 100-3200
  • Built-in gimbal
  • Weight: 116g / 4oz
  • Dimensions: 121.9 x 36.9 x 28.6 mm
  • MicroSD slot up to 256GB
  • LiPo 875 mAH 6.738 Wh battery, 140 mins operating time when shooting 1080p/30 fps video
  • 48 KHz AAC audio output

Operation

The Osmo Pocket only has two buttons making stand alone operation very straightforward. The button on the right turns the Osmo Pocket on, touchscreen controls allow you to select different shooting modes (photo, video, slow-mo, timelapse, pano), recording resolution (4K or 1080p), access settings like fast follow, slow follow, FPV, or to recenter the camera, and review files. The button on the left with the red dot is how you start recording footage or shooting photos.

ISO 100 | 1/50 sec | F2

There is an option to connect a smartphone to the Osmo Pocket via a small adapter and shoot through the DJI Mimo app. In theory, shooting with the app gives users more control over the Osmo Pocket’s features; you get a larger view of what you are filming, can see a histogram, and get alerts if your footage is overexposed. Although the idea is a nice one, in practice attaching a phone to the Osmo Pocket defeats its best feature: its simplicity.

For starters, the smartphone attachment is tiny – during my time shooting with the Osmo Pocket I misplaced this accessory and the plastic cover that slides off a number of times. To ensure that the connection between the Osmo Pocket and my phone was tight I had to remove my iPhone X from its protective case, which is a setup that I didn’t find ideal. Although attaching a phone and using the app gives you a better idea of what you might be shooting, once the phone is attached the setup feels really unbalanced. I found it difficult to shoot, walk, use my phone as a touchscreen to control the camera, and also make sure I wasn’t about to drop my phone and end up with a dreaded spider web screen.

With an optional attachement it’s possible to operate the Osmo Pocket from your smartphone using the DJI Mimo app.

There is an additional Bluetooth accessory that you can attach to the bottom of the Osmo Pocket, which in theory would let you monitor the footage you are shooting without having the phone attached to the Osmo Pocket, but I didn’t test this and can’t speak to its usability. It would have been amazing if the Osmo Pocket just had built in WiFi or Bluetooth connectivity. More often than not I chose to use the Osmo Pocket without the DJI Mimo app. For me, shooting with the tiny screen as my monitor and trusting that the camera would do its job ended up being the ideal way to use the Osmo Pocket.

Video

The biggest draw of the Osmo Pocket is its ability to shoot stabilized 4K video footage at 30 or 60 fps. It can also shoot slow-motion 1080p at 120 fps. It’s similar to the quality of footage that you will get from one of DJI’s drones and the most recent smartphones.

The camera has an ISO range of 100-3200 and a lens with an aperture of F2, and for best results you are going to want to use the Osmo Pocket in sunny conditions.

Where the Osmo Pocket really excels is in-camera stabilization as a result of the integrated gimbal. It managed to keep this video fairly smooth despite running after a dog through New York City.

The camera stabilization of the Osmo Pocket is really its most impressive feature. It’s easier to use than larger stabilizers and seems to be just as reliable, likely because the stabilization tech inside was initially created for keeping the cameras attached to drones stable. The moment you turn the Osmo Pocket on the camera rotates into place to begin tracking whatever might be in front of it. As you move the gimbal moves with you to create impressively smooth footage.

Although the pre-amps inside the Osmo Pocket aren’t the best, the camera did do a decent job picking up sound. You will notice that the clips from a very loud live show have an audio quality similar to what you might get when recording with a smartphone.

The Osmo Pocket delivers sound quality similar to what you would get with a smartphone. Likewise, due to its small sensor, low light video is on par with a smartphone as well.

Still images

If you are looking to shoot stills with the Osmo Pocket you should expect files that look similar to what you will get from your smartphone. Files top out at 12MP and the camera performs best when shooting in bright conditions. The 1/2.3″ CMOS sensor and the F2 lens are very similar to those found on standard smartphones and you can expect the images to look about the same.

Unfortunately, the Osmo Pocket seems to have trouble keeping up with fast moving subjects when shooting stills. I noticed a lot of unintentional image blur while using it. One thing worth noting is the ease with which you can swap between photo and video modes on that touchscreen – which isn’t always a good thing. On more than one occasion I found that I’d unintentionally switched the Osmo Pocket into photo mode when I meant to be in video mode.

ISO 100 | 1/2000 sec | F2

Conclusion

The DJI Osmo Pocket isn’t exactly a must-have gadget in most shooters’ professional kits, but it does a surprisingly good job of capturing quality, stabilized video footage for its tiny size.

The Osmo Pocket feels like a good option for capturing supplementary BTS footage on a big shoot or POV video stories for vloggers and influencers. Its simple operation won’t intimidate people just getting into content creation. It also seems like it could be a great starter camera for kids who have shown an interest in video production.

The built-in stabilization in the Osmo Pocket is ultimately what makes this gadget so appealing. Although the quality of footage is similar to what you will get from a standard smartphone, the Osmo Pocket provides something that a smartphone simply can’t do on its own: seamlessly smooth footage.

What we like:

  • Lightweight and easy to use as a standalone device
  • 4K video capabilities
  • In-camera stabilization
  • Decent audio quality
  • Touch screen controls

What we’d like to see improved:

  • Feels unbalanced when shooting with smartphone attached, which makes the Mimo app of limited use
  • Lack of built-in WiFi or Bluetooth to connect to app
  • Removable cover for smartphone adapter is so small that it’s easy to misplace

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tamron announces new 35-150mm F2.8-4 lens for Canon, Nikon cameras

26 Apr

Tamron has announced the 35-150mm F2.8-4 Di VC OSD lens for Canon EF and Nikon F mounts.

The lens, which Tamron says is a ‘dedicated portrait lens,’ is constructed of 19 elements in 14 groups including three Low Dispersion elements (LD), three hybrid aspherical elements and a features Tamron’s Broad-Band Anti-Reflection (BBAR) coating throughout the lens to reduce ghosting and flares. Its maximum aperture range is F2.8 through F4 while its minimum aperture range is F16 through F22, depending on what focal length the lens is set to, and it features a nine blade aperture diaphragm.

Autofocus on the lens is powered by Tamron’s Optimized Silent Drive (OSD) DC motor and the image stabilization is done with Tamron’s Vibration Compensation (VC) technology, which is CIPA-rated for up to five additional stops of stability.

The lens features a minimum focusing distance of 45cm (17.7in) across the entire zoom range, a 77mm filter thread and a fluorine coating on the front lens element to protect against water and oil. The lens measures in at 124.4mm (4.9in) long and weighs 790g (27.9oz) for the Nikon F mount version, and measures 126.8mm (5in) long and 796g (28.1oz) for the Canon EF version. Tamron’s TAP-in ConsoleTM can be used with this lens to update the lens’ firmware and make fine adjustments to the autofocus and vibration compensation motors inside.

The Tamron 35-150mm F2.8-4 is currently available for pre-order at B&H for $ 799 (Canon EF, Nikon F).

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Olympus E-M1X vs Nikon D5: shooting tennis

26 Apr
Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 320 | 1/4000 sec | F4 | Shot using the Olympus 300mm F4

The Olympus E-M1X sits in a curious spot in the market: it’s got the speed, rugged build-quality and dual-grip design of a full-frame Nikon D5 or a Canon EOS-1D X II, but sports a smaller Four Thirds chip. The smaller sensor is reflected in a smaller price tag; at $ 3000, it’s half the price of the D5 and $ 2500 less than the 1D X II. That’s a lot of savings that could be put toward high quality glass. But the D5 and 1D X II are sports cameras with long lineages, whereas the E-M1X is Olympus’ first crack at a truly sports-oriented camera. So can it compete? To find out we pitted it against the D5 at a University of Washington tennis match.

The D5 and 1D X II are sports cameras with long lineages, the E-M1X is Olympus’ first crack at a truly sports-oriented body – can it compete?

Tennis is a sport for which a good viewfinder experience, fast/reliable autofocus and a quick burst rate with plenty of buffer depth are important for success. It’s also a sport for which I’ve found Nikon’s 3D Tracking to be particularly useful. Having had a lot of success shooting tennis with a D5, I was eager to get behind the E-M1X and see how it compared.

Burst Speed

Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 320 | 1/4000 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Olympus 40-150mm F2.8 lens at 95mm equiv.

There’s a lot of nuance to nailing a perfect tennis photo: the ideal frame is often the split second after or before the ball touches the strings of an athlete’s racket. Tennis rackets swing at between 110-140kph (70-85mph) and more frames means better odds of getting the the shot. With this in mind, the E-M1X’s 18 fps gave a noticeable advantage over the Nikon’s 12 fps rate (top bursts with AF).

And if you’re OK with focus being locked on the first frame, the E-M1X can shoot up to a whopping 60 fps. There’s a catch though: both the 18 fps and 60 fps options are using the electronic shutter, which can be susceptible to banding under artificial lights (like a gym) and rolling shutter. Fortunately these issues can be mostly avoided by using the mechanical shutter, you’ll just have to settle for 10 fps with AF. Ultimately I decided the benefits of the faster 18 fps rate outweighed my desire to avoid rolling shutter (which ended up having a minimal impact).

While the Olympus had the speed advantage, nothing for me beats the ‘kurchunk’ of the D5’s beefy shutter.

While the Olympus had the speed advantage, it was a tie for buffer depth: despite shooting Raw+JPEG on both cameras, I never hit a point where either slowed down. That said, when it came to the adrenaline rush of firing off a fast burst of images, nothing for me beats the ‘kurchunk’ of the D5’s beefy shutter mechanism.

Viewfinder experience

Shot on the Nikon D5. Out-of-camera JPEG cropped in post.
ISO 100 | 1/2500 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Nikon 70-200 F2.8 at 200mm

Electronic viewfinders on mirrorless cameras keep improving and despite the E-M1X’s somewhat modest EVF resolution (2.36M-dot compared to 5.76M-dot on the latest mirrorless cameras) and low contrast (it uses LCD instead of OLED display technology) the experience of using it to capture fast action is excellent.

Whether shooting 10 fps in mechanical or 18 fps in e-shutter, black-out times are minimal. And there’s no noticeable resolution drop or slowdown in refresh rate when AF is engaged to distract your eyes from the action. This isn’t the case for lots of other mirrorless cameras.

However, for serious sports shooters who operate with both eyes open, the D5’s large optical finder (with very short blackout times) still provides a better viewfinder experience, in my opinion. It’s possible to shoot the Olympus with both eyes open, but I found it to be rather jarring. This is because the limited brightness and contrast of the EVF means what you see in your EVF eye never quite agrees with what you see with your real-world-viewing eye.

So when it comes to the viewfinder experience, the E-M1X impresses for a mirrorless camera, but the D5 still has it beat.

Autofocus

Shot on the Nikon D5. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 250 | 1/2500 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Nikon 70-200 F2.8 at 200mm

Of all the cameras in the world, the D5’s become my first choice for shooting anything moving thanks to its ridiculously reliable AF performance. And it’s no surprise that its autofocus system shone once more during the tennis match. Whether using a single point, zone or 3D Tracking, I enjoyed a 95%+ hit rate with the D5.

I used a combination of similar AF settings on the E-M1X, including a single point, zone and AF tracking – the latter impressed me with its stickiness. And ultimately, my hit rate was around 80%; this was after maxing out AF-C sensitivity early in the match.

The E-M1X’s AF system doesn’t feel quite as reliable as the D5’s or even the 1D X II’s

While these hit rates aren’t vastly different, the way in which the cameras missed shots is worth noting. With the Nikon, the very few shots it missed were usually toward the start of a burst and focus mostly corrected itself within a few frames. With the Olympus, slightly miss-focused shots seem to be sprinkled throughout otherwise in-focus bursts. This made picking my selects tricky – on more than one occasion that random missed shot coincided with my frame of choice. Sigh.

Ultimately, the E-M1X’s AF system doesn’t feel quite as reliable as the D5’s or even the 1D X II’s. The hit rate is good, but not great. So while Canon and Nikon compete in the autofocus big leagues, it seems Olympus is still working its way up through the minor leagues.

Using the Nikon D5 resulted in less frames like this. Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Also note: rolling shutter.

Ergonomics

While the E-M1X concedes ground to the D5 in AF, it holds its own in terms of ergonomics. Both of these cameras are large – and a little intimidating to operate at first – but offer outstanding degrees of customization and excellent comfort, even after extended use. The Nikon seems a little tougher-built, but also weighs ~1.5x the Olympus. Ultimately, I get the impression either camera could stand up to the abuse of shooting in a torrential downpour (the E-M1X is IPX1-rated), or being slammed to the ground by a runaway wide receiver along the sidelines.

I wish Olympus had included a top plate LCD on the E-M1X.

I wish Olympus had included a top plate LCD on the E-M1X, though. While not a deal-breaker, having a quick way to check core settings at a glance can be super handy.

Image quality

Shot on the Nikon D5. Out-of-camera JPEG cropped in post.
ISO 160 | 1/2500 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Nikon 70-200 F2.8 at 200mm

Given the difference in sensor size, a difference in image quality shouldn’t be much of a surprise. The Nikon D5 has 3.84x the sensor area of the E-M1X and therefore offers substantially better noise performance and tonal quality. This means files from the D5 will stand up to image processing and being cropped-in better than E-M1X files. The latter was definitely in the back of my mind during the shoot. As someone who’s used to shooting sports for local publications, I’ve grown accustomed to leaving some wiggle room in my framing – after all, it’s better to have to crop-in than to miss a moment completely.

The JPEG profiles from both these brands are excellent.

I think this fact led me to subconsciously overcompensate during the match, because many of my shots on the E-M1X ended up slightly too zoomed in. Oops.

In addition to the above, a good sports camera should also offer good out-of-camera JPEGs. When shooting on a deadline, there’s often no time to process or transmit Raw files: what comes out-of-camera is going to have to do. Fortunately, the JPEG profiles from both these brands are excellent: case-in-point, I didn’t bother processing the Raws for this story.

Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 320 | 1/4000 sec | F4 | Shot using the Shot using the Olympus 300mm F4.

Lenses

The E-M1X’s smaller sensor gives it the advantage of using smaller/lighter glass than the D5, but at the cost of slower equivalent apertures, which means noisier or less detailed images and less subject separation. That said, Olympus makes plenty of reasonably-fast, high quality telephoto lenses. The 40-150mm F2.8, one of the lenses I used during the match, offered excellent reach and a reasonably fast maximum aperture (even in equivalent terms), in a fairly small, light package – something that could be a plus if you’re trying to cut weight from your kit.

Nikon’s lenses on the other hand offer faster equiv. maximum apertures, allowing for cleaner images and more background separation. But many are heftier to lug.

The wrap

Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 500 | 1/4000 sec | F4 | Shot using the Olympus 40-150mm F2.8 lens at 95mm equiv.

All things considered, the E-M1X is a decent choice for sports, action and wildlife photographers seeking the ergonomics of the D5 in a more reasonably-priced package. While you won’t quite get the AF reliability or superior image quality of Nikon’s flagship, you will get a faster top burst speed and a lighter kit to carry.

Those seeking the D5’s level of AF reliability would likely be better served by the Nikon D500.

Ultimately, I feel like those seeking the D5’s level of AF reliability would likely be better served by the Nikon D500 than the E-M1X: it’s more than a $ 1000 cheaper than Olympus’ flagship and sports a larger APS-C sensor and 10 fps continuous shooting with an autofocus system nearly as dependable as the D5’s. Plus, you can always pick up the vertical grip attachment for it if you need that portrait-orientation layout.


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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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1,300 glass plates seized from Hitler’s personal photographer digitized by US National Archive

26 Apr
Adolf Hitler speaking at an undated rally.

Over a thousand glass plates showing Hitler’s rise to power and the Nazi leader throughout World War ll have been digitized by the US National Archive. The plates, some of which were broken into many parts, were the work of Hitler’s personal photographer Heinrich Hoffmann and were confiscated from the photographer by US troops at the end of the war.

According to The Washington Post special projects preservationist at the National Archive, Richard E Schneider, spent the better part of a year piecing together 1,270 images from a collection of 41,000 glass plates. The institution plans to make the pictures public soon when they will be released online.

Hoffman was the only photographer allowed to take Hitler’s picture, and the role made him extremely wealthy — he is said to have made over $ 35 million alone from the royalties on the picture of Hitler used on postage stamps during the Nazi era.

The pictures in the collection are all posed propaganda images used to develop Hitler’s public profile and to further the power of the Nazi party – even Hoffmann wasn’t allowed to take candid pictures. Some show Hitler on his own, while others show him speaking at rallies or posing with groups of senior party members, like Goebbels, Hess and Himmler.

Possibly one of the earliest published photos of Adolf Hitler, taken in 1923 when he was 34 years old.

Hoffmann was made Hitler’s official photographer in 1921 when Hitler took control of the Nazi party and the two became good friends. Eva Braun was Hoffmann’s studio assistant, and it was Hoffmann who introduced Hitler to her in 1929 – Hitler and Braun married the day before committing suicide in the closing stages of WWll.

After the war Hoffmann was arrested by the US Army and was sentenced to four years in jail for profiteering — including stealing and selling art works from Jewish families, museums and galleries. He died in 1957.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time – Part Three – Post-Processing for Exposure Optimization

26 Apr

The post How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time – Part Three – Post-Processing for Exposure Optimization appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Digital photography allows us an incredible scope to work on our computers to enhance and manipulate images. Optimizing your exposures during post-processing can make a dull, flat-looking photograph into a much more vibrant and interesting one.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every TimeMarket Guy

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My approach to post-processing most of the time is to make my photos look as they did when I captured them or with some variation to the background tone. Because our eyes see more dynamic range than our cameras, this means I am working to balance my exposure and the way the light looks in the photo.

RAW or Jpg?

If your photos are saved only as jpg’s, your camera will have made certain tweaks to them already. It may have added some sharpening, color balance, contrast tweaks and possibly manipulated them in other ways. Jpg images as designed to look good straight out of your camera and may require little or no post-processing.

If you do decide to work on your jpg files, you will face limitations because of the file quality. As your camera saves jpg files, it compresses them and discards some of the information from the photos. Jpgs are technically lower quality which means they do not stand up to as much post-processing as RAW files do.

RAW files contain all the information your camera captured when you pressed the shutter release. They do not look great when you first see them because the camera has not altered them at all during the capturing and saving process.

To make a RAW file look good you must make some adjustments manually or use a preset or Action to make them for you. The technical quality of a RAW file is superior because there is no data lost from what your camera recorded. You have a greater capacity to be able to manipulate these files without losing quality.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Temple and Big Sky

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Choose your best photos

From each series of photographs you make I hope that you will have a number of exposure options to choose from when you sit down at your computer. Picking the best images to work on is the first part of post-processing.

Naturally, you’ll be wanting to pay most attention to the main subject in your photo. Is it exposed the way you want it to be? Can you see that there’s sufficient detail in those areas of your composition?

In some cases, such as when you’ve made a silhouette or are using low-key lighting and high contrast, you may have little or no detail in your subject. This is okay if that’s what you want.

However, if exposing for detail was your intention, and there’s not enough in your photo, look at the pictures where you used different exposure settings.

Your background exposure is also important. Does it enhance and support your main subject? Is it too bright or too dark? Again, look to see if there is detail. When there’s no detail, because of overexposure or underexposure, it will be more difficult to manipulate these areas.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Attractive Young Photographer

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Make use of the histogram

Your histogram gives you information about the tonal values in your images. It shows you where the most detail is and if you have lost detail in the bright or dark parts of your compositions.

If your histogram is bunched up to the left or the right of the chart, with the graphic touching the top, this means there will be no detail recorded in those areas.

If you can see a histogram bunched to the right and hitting the top, you will have lost detail in the highlights. If it’s bunched to the left and hitting the top, you have lost detail in the dark areas.

If your main subject is within this range and you wanted it to contain detail, you will need to choose a photo with a different exposure setting to work on.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Hill Tribe Girl

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Using presets or manual manipulation

Lightroom and Photoshop come with presets and Actions. These can be used to help balance your exposure. You can also download many more or make and save your own. These tools can enhance and speed up your post-processing workflow.

I often chose one of a variety of presets as I begin to post process a photograph. Rarely do I apply a preset without then tweaking it further. Every exposure you make is different, so to get your photos looking their best some manual manipulation is usually best.

Working your highlights and shadows

Having been careful to expose your main subject well, you may already be happy with its tone value. However, some parts of your composition may still need tweaking to get them looking the way you want.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Happy Hat Wearer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Your intention is the most important. How do you want your photograph to look?

Here are two examples of different manipulations made to the same RAW file.

Example one: Dark background

I wanted to make the background darker so the roses would stand out. Using a preset I made in Lightroom, I then made further manual adjustments. I controlled the Blacks, Dehaze, Contrast, and Shadows sliders.

When making this kind of adjustment to manipulate the background of your image, pay attention to your main subject also. These sliders make universal changes to your photos so affect your main subject as well.

With a light-toned main subject and a predominantly dark background, the changes I made did not have much effect on the roses.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Lightroom Dark

I then opened the photo, with the Lightroom adjustments, in Photoshop. At this stage, I darkened the lightest part of the photo to lower the overall tone range.

There are many techniques you can darken or lighten specific areas of a photo. I prefer to use the Dodge and Burn tools set to a low exposure to do this. I also used the Patch tool to remove a few of the brighter areas in the background.

As a result, the background is darker, and the highlights on the rose are not so bright.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time

Example Two: Light Background

To render a lighter, softer look, I took the Dehaze slider towards the left, and the Shadows towards the right. I added a little more Black and some Contrast, otherwise the image looked too flat.

Next, using Photoshop, I tweaked the highlights a little so they were not so bright.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Roses

In both of these examples, my main objective was to enhance the roses because they are my main subject.

The background tone is also important. Between the two examples, there is the most difference in the tone of the background. This has a large impact on the overall feel of the photo.

Conclusion

As with all post-processing, there are a variety of methods you can use to gain similar results. Here I have demonstrated a few techniques I am comfortable using.

Concentrating primarily on the tone of your main subject in relation to the background is a good place to start when post-processing. Once you have made adjustments you are satisfied with, you can then move on and make other changes to your photos if you wish.

Aim to expose your main subject the way you want at the time of making your photos. Doing so allows you more flexibility to make changes in post-production and not lose quality. If you are stuck working with a main subject that’s either underexposed or overexposed, you will be limited in how much you can achieve.

Experimentation is the best way to discover how you like to work with photo manipulation software. There is no right or wrong way to work with your photos so long as you achieve the result you want.

You may also like

  • How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time. Part 1 – Seeing the Light
  • How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time. Part Two: Managing Your Exposure

 

The post How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time – Part Three – Post-Processing for Exposure Optimization appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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OPPO launches Reno smartphone with periscope tele lens

25 Apr

OPPO had been teasing its new flagship for quite a while but now it’s official: The OPPO Reno has been launched globally and will be available as a version with periscope-style tele lens, making it only the second current device with this technology, after the Huawei P30 Pro.

The top-of-the-line model is called ‘OPPO Reno 10x Zoom’ and comes with a 6.6” OLED display and, thanks to a pop-up 16MP selfie-cam, does away with the dreaded display notch. Of course, from an imaging point of view the device’s key feature is the periscope-style tele lens.

Despite the official model name the lens offers ‘only’ a 6x optical magnification. A 10x factor is achieved using computational methods to generate a hybrid-zoom. Both primary and tele camera come with optical image stabilization. Below are a few sample photos provided by OPPO:

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OPPO says the ultra-wide lens comes with a ‘0.6x zoom factor’ which is an unusual way of describing things but we are assuming the equivalent focal length is around 16mm.

Thanks to a Snapdragon 855 chipset there is enough processing power to allow 4K video recording at 60 frames per second. 8GB of RAM and 256GB storage are on board as well. Other interesting features include Audio Focus, which uses multiple microphones to keep video and audio in sync as you zoom in, an in-display fingerprint reader and stereo speakers.

The standard OPPO Reno 10x zoom will be available in Europe in June for €800 ($ 890). You’ll be able to get your hands on a 5G version through certain carriers one months earlier. Be prepared to shell out €100 ($ 110) more than for the standard device, however.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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