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Archive for December, 2018

These LEGO Leica M cameras are tiny, blocky versions of iconic rangefinders

18 Dec

Over the years, Leica has partnered with LEGO multiple times to create brick-made versions of its popular rangefinder cameras. Now, a new set is available, a pair of LEGO Leica M camera sets.

The LEGO Leica M cameras come in a black and brown variety. Like their respective real-life counterparts, the cameras feature all of the important details you’d expect from a Leica rangefinder: a clear viewfinder, various dials, a shutter, a rear display and even camera strap mounts.

All that’s missing is the iconic red dot. But a red permanent marker would get the job done. Alternatively, these could be the LEGO equivalent of Leica’s P-series cameras, which forgo the iconic red dot for a more subtle approach.

The cameras are currently listed on the Leica Store Miami website. Both sets retail for $ 45 USD. The Black/Gray version is available for pre-order while the Brown/Gray version is available for purchase.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Read Your Camera Manual (and why you really, really should!)

18 Dec

The post How To Read Your Camera Manual (and why you really, really should!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Camera manuals are notoriously difficult to read and understand. Often they are not read as much, or as well, as they should be. You need to read your camera manual because it contains vital information that will help you to become a better photographer.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Night Camera

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Just as we need to learn the alphabet before we can learn to read and write, we must learn the basics of operating our cameras in order to take the best photos we can.

Reading it from cover to cover is not necessary. There will not be a test on how much you can remember.

The best way to use your camera manual

Begin to skim with your camera in your hands. Look through the contents and take note of what’s covered. Mark which items you think may be of particular interest to you. Some you will be able to just glance over. Others may be just painfully obvious, like this from the Nikon D800 manual;

“When operating the viewfinder diopter adjustment control with your eye to the viewfinder, care should be taken not to put your finger in your eye accidentally.”

I would add that it’s always a good idea not to put your finger in your eye, even when you are not adjusting your diopter.

If you’ve just bought a new camera and it’s a model you’re not familiar with, you’ll need to pay more attention to the manual. For camera users who are upgrading you will be best to scan the book for what’s been upgraded since your previous model. Sometimes these may be highlighted.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Camera In Hand

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Break your reading down into bite-size chunks. Don’t attempt to read and understand everything you need to know about your camera in one sitting. It’s a complex piece of equipment. Spread your reading out over a few days or a week.

Give yourself time to practice what you are reading about. Getting hands-on experience will help you retain what you’re learning about and make it much more relatable.

Do not read it all

Choose to learn the essentials first. Find out how to focus it and set the exposure well. There will be various options available to you. Start reading about the ones most applicable to the way you like to photograph.

If you are completely new to photography and not yet sure which exposure mode you prefer, take some time to read through all the options.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Happy Photographer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Getting a good start by understanding the basics of your camera leaves you freer to concentrate on photography. Don’t be filling your mind with more than you need to know. At the start you are not likely to need information about producing video, making multiple exposures or how to adjust the customs settings on your camera. These things can wait until you can find your way around your camera comfortably.

Carry your manual with you

Download a PDF of your camera manual to your phone. Take it with you everywhere so you can refer to it when you get stuck with a camera setting.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Chinese Woman Photographer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Practical application of the information contained in this little book will help you get to know your camera better. But only if you use it well. Hands on is best.

Once it’s on your phone you can take a few minutes to read a little more on the bus or train or whenever you have a few minutes to spare.

Consider buying a book specifically about your camera (that’s not the manual)

I have purchased books and resources about cameras I own by Thom Hogan. Thom is well known for his incredibly detailed writing about Nikon cameras. I find he’s much easier to read than the camera manuals.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Learning Photography

©Pansa Landwer-Johan

His books are well laid out and the information is broken down so it’s readily consumed.

This may be beyond the needs or wants of many photographers, but for those who have the time and want the resources, picking up a book, other than your camera manual will help advance you towards better picture taking.

Aim to be able to forget it all

As you become more confident and competent with your camera, you will have little need for your camera manual. Well, I would hope that before long you have put what you’ve read to good use and can remember it effortlessly.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Camera In Hand 2

©Pansa Landwer-Johan

Having the ability to pick up your camera and have it ready to take photos in any situation is well worth aiming for. The more you can concentrate on what’s happening in front of you the better photos you’ll obtain.

Gazing down at the camera in your hands as you try and figure out which settings you want to use leads to you missing out. You may be able to take your best photos when you are focused more on what you are making photographs about than what you are making them with.

The post How To Read Your Camera Manual (and why you really, really should!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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China confirms photojournalist Lu Guang’s arrest near Xinjiang

18 Dec
Screenshot from World Press Photo’s video interview, embedded in full below.
Award-winning photojournalist Lu Guang, 57, was arrested near China’s far western region Xinjiang, Chinese police officials have confirmed to the photographer’s family. News of Lu’s disappearance first surfaced last month via his wife, Xu Xiaoli, who told the New York Times she had lost contact with him around November 3, the day he was travelling to Xinjiang.

As reported last month, Lu, who lives in New York with his wife and son, was invited to visit Xinjiang’s capital Urumqi to lead a week-long photography workshop. Xu lost contact with Lu around November 3, and the New York Times cited “local sources” who claimed he and his local host were detained by security services around the same time.

Weeks had passed without official information about the photographer’s location, but a new report from the New York Times states Lu’s family was given confirmation of his arrest. Neither written confirmation nor the reason for Lu’s arrest were provided, however. The friend who invited Lu to Xinjiang was reportedly also arrested.

Xinjiang has been subjected to intense surveillance and police activity in recent years as the Chinese government attempts to crackdown on what it claims are terrorist threats from the region’s Muslim Kazakh and Uighur populations. A recent report revealed the existence of forced labor within Xinjiang’s re-education and ‘training’ camps, fueling international condemnation.

Below is a video interview conducted by World Press Photo back in 2011.

Though Lu’s past work has included documenting China’s marginalized groups and the issues they face, Xu told the New York Times that she doesn’t believe her husband was in Xinjiang to cover its ongoing problems. Rather, Lu was reportedly touring the region as a first-time visitor with plans to hold a workshop for local photographers.

Lu’s condition remains unknown.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

18 Dec

The post How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

This holiday season your Instagram feed is going to be filled with photos of people’s food. Many of those photos can look terrible – dark, blurry, and discolored. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to take great food photos this holiday season. The principles are simple and apply to the food photos you take all year long.

Window light - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

The photo on the left is from a few years ago. I attempted to take a stunning food photo to post online, but the pop-up flash on my camera spoiled things. I knew nothing about light back then! The photo on the right is a combination of soft window light and the warm ambient light of the tree in the background.

1. Presentation

You may have no control over how the food gets presented. Perhaps it gets placed in front of you, and you want to snap a quick picture. However, if you do have control over how the food gets presented, then you should give some thought to it.

Consider things like what color dishes or drink wear do you have available? You could use something neutral in tone, colors that represent the season, or something that accents the food.

2 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

The white plate allows the cookies to stand out from the wood table with similar tones, while the red mug hints at the holiday season.

3 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This scene is more colorful, mixing the traditional red and green colors of the holiday. This time the table is white to make the colors pop.

2. Light

Light can make or break your food photos. The direction of the light (overhead, front, back, side) and the quality of light (soft or harsh) dramatically changes how your photo looks.

4 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This photo was taken with nothing but an overhead light. You can see by the crisp shadow that the light is very harsh. It’s good enough and is certainly better than dark and blurry, but I prefer a big soft window light.

5 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

The pop-up flash on my camera was used for this photo. Again, better than nothing. But certainly not as nice as the window light.

For the following photos, I used my daughter’s play food! You can practice with anything you’ve got. I wanted something with even more texture to illustrate the effect of side and backlight.

A large window lights the photos below. The light skims across the cupcake from the side or behind, bringing out texture through highlights and shadows.

6 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

The cookies are placed on the crate, with the window behind or to the side.

7 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This cupcake is lit by a large window producing soft light. The window is to the right. Notice that the right side of the cupcake is brighter? The light coming from the side helps to bring out some texture and make the two-dimensional photo pop more.

 

8 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This cupcake is backlit by the same window. Backlight helps bring out texture too but gives the photo a moodier look.

3. Angle

So you’ve found the perfect colored dishes and you’ve got your light source. Now consider the best angle from which to photograph your food. Generally, I recommend a higher angle, maybe even a bird’s eye view.

9 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

A bird’s eye view is great for food photography, especially if the food is in a deep dish. It allows you to look down from above.

10 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This is a high angle, though not as high as the bird’s eye view. You are able to see what is on the plate. This photo is less about the food and more about the mood of the scene. I remember being a kid waiting for Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner while the grown-ups bustled around. Everything is so dramatic with plumes of steam rising from the dishes! Steam should be photographed with backlight to help it stand out.

 

11 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This face to face angle brings you into direct confrontation with the pile of cookies. They don’t stand a chance!

4. Background

Finally, consider what’s in the background. Your background should be clean and simple or a little bit scenic.

12 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

I snapped a quick photo, only to realize afterward that the background is a mess. I never seem to pay enough attention to the background.

 

13 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

I grabbed a clipboard off the table and used it as a backdrop to block out the mess. It’s not fancy, but it will do for a quick snapshot.

14 - How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season

This background is intentionally scenic, showing that it’s Christmas time. Bring together color, light, angle, and background to make your food photos look great!

Keep these tips in your pocket all year long!

I learned how to take better photos of my food through trial and error, and learning from professional food photographers.

Whenever I’m inspired by what’s on my plate I set it by the window, pay attention to the background, find its best angle and take a nice looking photo. No more harsh overhead light or pop-up flash!

The post How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


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ON1 Photo RAW 2019 Review

18 Dec

The post ON1 Photo RAW 2019 Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Leanne Cole.

This November, ON1 released the latest version of their standalone-editing platform, Photo RAW 2019. It is a sophisticated program aimed toward all levels of photographers from the absolute beginner to the professional. The program is there to help photographers edit their photos to achieve the best possible images.

Many features in the previous version still exist. However, some obvious changes are in the user interface — specifically, the removal of the different modes you had to switch to as you processed your images. They are now much easier to use, and access to each is all done in the same window.

leannecole-on1-photoRAW-2019-001

When you open ON1 Photo RAW 2019

Some of the significant aspects of Photo RAW are still available but have been improved to make them more efficient to use. ON1 have always listened to their users. They find out what their users want the most from the software and use that feedback to make product improvements, via the ON1 Photo RAW Project.

User Interface

One of the biggest changes with Photo RAW 2019 is the basic layout. The Browse section is much the same, except for a few minor changes. However, some of the most significant changes are when you proceed to the photo editing section.

In the past, you have had to go to different modules to make particular changes. In the latest release, you the Develop, Effects and Layers features are all integrated in the same place. You can now move between each of them easily, and more importantly, quickly.

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The User Interface has been updated as well.

You no longer have to wait for changes to get saved when moving from one module to another. In previous versions, when you moved to the Layers module, you lost all of the non-destructive settings used to create your image. However, now you have access to them all the way through the editing process of your image.

When you open your image in Edit Mode, you can see on the right side that it still looks similar to the previous version with Tone & Color windows opened first. However, above it, are now tabs for Develop, Effects, Portrait, and Local. When you want to use aspects that are in a specific tab, you click on it and you are taken to it straight away. You can move around them very quickly.

Above those tabs, is a larger one that has Layers written on it. You can now add layers at any stage of your editing and go back and forth between the other tabs as well.

leannecole-on1-photoRAW-2019-005

Now layers is in the same place as the other tabs.

The new Layers tab is a bonus because you don’t lose any of the previous edits you have done. As you go back to the other tabs everything you have done previously is still there. You can change adjustments and filters at any stage of the process too. This ability is new to Photo RAW and was not available in previous versions.

Effects and Filters

Nearly all the adjustments are now under the Effects Tab. When you click on Add Filter, a new window pops up with a range of filters available for use. While this isn’t new, in the previous version they were split between the Develop and Effects Modules, and you had to keep swapping between them, depending on how you used them.

In the 2019 release, the filters are all in one place under the Effects tab. Along with the existing filters, ON1 have also included some new ones.

leannecole-on1-photoRAW-2019-004

All the filters are now under the Effects tab.

These filters include Curves, Color Adjustments, and Film Grains. Curves is a very welcome addition as it is something that many people use in other editing programs. This filter is addictive. Once you start using it, you want to use it on everything.

Some people enjoy the Film Grain option. It is excellent for imitating the effects of analog film. If you had a favorite film type, you could make your digital images have a similar feel to them.

Color Adjustments give you more options for individual colors in your image. You can saturate or desaturate them. You can also change the hue tones or change the color entirely. If you like that sort of control in your editing, then this filter is perfect for you.

Tool changes

One of the things I have noticed is the tools are now in the left sidebar. In the previous version there were many of them, and as you moved through the modes more appeared.

At first glance with Photo RAW 2019, it appears that there are not as many tools. There aren’t many sitting in the sidebar, but when you click on one, you should also look at the top of the window. There, you can find the settings for each one, and you find other similar tools. You can click on them to use the ones that you like.

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Some of the tools are now located in a different section.

If you have used previous versions and can’t find tools that you previously used, go through each one along the top to see what is available. It looks as though all the original tools are still available. They are merely in a new location.

Text Tool

One of the really exciting additions to the latest release is the Text Tool. You can now add text to images. You can make memes or other designs.

This new feature is excellent for watermarking your image too. Love them or hate them, many people want to put watermarks on their work. It allows them to prove they own the copyright if their image is stolen or used without their permission.

The Text Tool also features a range of font options, and you can choose the size and placement. Like most adjustments, you can change the opacity as well, which is perfect for watermarking.

The Text Tool is a welcome addition to Photo RAW and something that many people are going to like.

leannecole-on1-photoRAW-2019-011

The new Text Tool is a very welcome addition.

Processing RAW images

Some programs are not capable of processing your RAW files; however, ON1 can process these files with Photo RAW. It can process them quickly, and the file sizes are not an issue.

Many of the modern cameras produce images with enormous file sizes. I use a Nikon D850, and the RAW images are often over 50MB. Each image I have processed in Photo RAW 2019 has handled with no problems.

Lightroom Catalogues

Many people who have used Lightroom for years have cataloged all their photos using the platform. Lightroom users may be hesitant to switch to Photo RAW 2019 for fear of losing access to all of these catalogs. However, there are now some new AI algorithms that power Photo RAW giving the user access to all their photos from Lightroom catalogs using the Lightroom Migration Assistant. The Migration Assistant adds the top-level folders in the Folders panel in Lightroom to Cataloged Folders in Photo RAW. All of the photos inside of these folders are cataloged automatically. Your collections and Metadata changes made in Lightroom are migrated and include keywords, descriptions, ratings, labels, orientation, etc.

Lastly, RAW processing and editing settings from Lightroom’s Develop module including crop, retouching, and local adjustments are migrated non-destructively so they can be re-edited in ON1 Photo RAW 2019.

You can also see the photos you have edited in the other program as well. This feature was an essential development for ON1 because it offers users an alternative to paid monthly subscriptions such as Lightroom.

leannecole-on1-photoRAW-2019-013

Now you can access all your photos and catalogs from Lightroom.

Creating HDR images

While HDR Images editing is not new to Photo RAW, the 2019 release has seen some significant improvements to the programs ability to edit them faster. The workflow has improved significantly too.

The process starts the same way – select your images and click on the HDR icon. However, once the images are merged, the changes made to the overall image are not set in stone. Once the HDR is created and opened in the Develop tab, you can continue making other re-adjustments. This feature allows you to alter any mistakes you may have made the first time.

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Creating HDR Images is now easier.

The most significant and best change is how fast your HDR images get processed. It is fantastic and makes them so much easier to do. While other programs make you wait (you can make coffee while it is doing the merging), Photo RAW completes the process before you know it. This feature is an excellent addition for time-poor photographers.

Many of the other features remain, and you can choose various options for how you want your HDR images to appear when the merging is complete. If you are familiar with how ON1 does HDR photos, the previous features remain, with the added bonus of new ones that are sure to impress.

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Make changes anytime.

Focus stacking

If you love macro photography or are keen to get everything in your images in focus, the Focus Stacking feature is a great new feature for you. Photo RAW 2019 allows you to highlight all the images you want to Focus Stack via the Browse section, and you simply click on the Focus icon. The icon is located on the right side of the window.

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Use Photo RAW 2019 to merge images for Focus Stacking.

Photo RAW aligns all your images together and displays a preview of your stacked image. It then blends all the selected images to make a final focus-stacked image. There is a reference panel to ensure you get the image you want.

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All the images are aligned and everything that you want in focus is.

Who is ON1 Photo RAW 2019 for?

The latest version has been designed to appeal to a wide range of photographers who want to edit their photos. Professional photographers can find everything they need to process their photos in Photo RAW 2019. If you have many photos to process, all the tools and adjustments that you used in Lightroom are available. Accessing all those images that you have previously processed with Lightroom is simple.

Hobbyist photographers who want more say on how their final images look may find Photo RAW 2019 brilliant. You can make all those basic adjustments, and more. It is an excellent program for learning layers too.

However, the best part is that many new photographers don’t want to sign up for monthly subscriptions set out by Adobe. The monthly expense can be expensive. With Photo RAW, you can purchase it outright and not have ongoing monthly costs. On top of that, with monthly subscriptions, you aren’t paying for many extras that you may not need.

Support

ON1 have many tutorial videos on YouTube to help you learn how to use the Photo RAW 2019 software if you are new to it. There are also tutorials for the latest release.

If you want more from the program and the company, consider signing up for ON1 Plus. ON1 Plus provides in-depth monthly courses on using ON1 Photo RAW and courses from top photographers. It is something that I would highly recommend.

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ON1 Plus gives you so much more support.

In Conclusion

The latest addition of ON1 Photo RAW 2019 was thoughtfully developed with the use of current user feedback. One of the great things about ON1 is how much they care about their users and try to make sure their software delivers for their needs. This latest release is sure to impress their users.

If you are looking for an alternative to mainstream editing programs, you should consider ON1. It does everything you need and is a program you can continue to learn. No matter what level of photographer you are, Photo RAW 2019 can cater to your editing needs.

 

Disclaimer: ACDSee is a paid partner of dPS

The post ON1 Photo RAW 2019 Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Leanne Cole.


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DJI launches ‘Pro’ website for creative photographers, videographers

18 Dec

In September, DJI introduced a new Pro brand targeted at professional photographers and videographers. Details about the brand were slim when it was first revealed, but the company is back with more information on its newly launched DJI Pro website.

‘DJI Pro is dedicated to professionals using DJI’s advanced aerial and gimbal technologies, such as the Inspire and the Ronin series,’ the company said in a statement today.

A screenshot from the website showing off a few of the BTS videos detailing DJI products in action.

The new DJI Pro website offers content across five categories, including product education, product information, examples of DJI’s hardware being used on film sets, information on workshops and events and the DJI Masters Program. Under the program, users are given the opportunity to learn from experts, including Tom Fitz, Hoonigan Media Machine, and Rufus Blackwell.

Ti Xie, DJI’s director of public relations had the following to say about the new website and platform:

Since the creation of the first Phantom to the Inspire and Ronin series, DJI has been dedicated to creating intuitive tools for every level of filmmaker. With the launch of the DJI Pro website, we now have a dedicated location where customers can learn about the application of our professional products and we also provide a learning-based platform for users to receive the latest information. We will continue to make more reliable, industry-leading tools for our growing customer base.

Tour the website at pro.dji.com to find out more and browse through the content.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm releases firmware updates for its X-T3, X-H1 cameras and 80mm F2.8 macro lens

18 Dec

As it promised it would back in November, Fujifilm has published the firmware updates for its X-T3 and X-H1 cameras, as well as a little firmware update for the Fujinon XF 80mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro lynx.

Fujifilm X-T3

Firmware version 2.0 for the X-T3 addresses a number of issues and features present in firmware version 1.02. Most notably, it’s now possible to record 4K HDR video in Hybrid Log Gamma (HLG) when shooting in 10-bit H.265 (HEVC) mode and simultaneously output Film Simulation while capturing F-Log footage under certain conditions. It can also now shoot video files larger than 4GB without splitting the file up, so long as the SD card being used is 64GB or bigger. Other small additions include the ability to display the color temperature on the EVF and LCD displays in Kelvin and compatibility with ALL-Intra and maximum bitrate 400Mbps in 8-bit, H.264 mode.

The update is available on Fujifilm’s X-T3 firmware download page.

Fujifilm X-H1

Firmware version 2.0 for the X-H1 also addresses the file size limitation issue as well as the color temperature display, but focuses on one feature in particular — image stabilization. With firmware version 2.0, the X-H1 will now work better when used with optically stabilized lenses. Fujifilm says in the update notes that ‘[Firmware version 2.00] has a new image stabilization algorithm to allow the in-body image stabilization to work in all 5 axis and to achieve more than five-stops (up to the equivalent of 5.5 stops) image stabilization by cooperative control according to the types of frequency and blur amount.’

The update is available on Fujifilm’s X-H1 firmware download page.

Fujinon XF 80mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro

In addition to the two major firmware releases, Fujifilm also threw in a small update for its 80mm F2.8 macro lens. Firmware version 1.11 adds improved compatibility between the in-body stabilization of the X-H1 and the optical stabilization inside the Fujinon XF 80mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro lens when used in conjunction with firmware version 2.00 for the X-H1.

The update is available on Fujifilm’s XF 80mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro firmware download page.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony a7 III vs. Canon EOS R vs. Nikon Z6, which is best?

18 Dec

Introduction

Sony had the full-frame mirrorless market to itself for nearly five years. And, while it’s been doing clever and interesting things with the likes of the a9, it’s the more basic a7 models that have had the most impact. The original a7 was the least-expensive full-frame camera yet launched, which helped make the format look more accessible than it had been since the film era.

They’re all good cameras but there are practical differences

But it’s no longer alone, with both Nikon’s Z6 and Canon’s EOS R both arriving priced in the $ 2000 region. The Canon stands out a little, costing 15% more and, with its simpler control system, not being so overtly aimed at committed enthusiasts. But in most respects, these cameras are direct competitors.

Before going any further, we should make clear that they’re all good cameras (most modern cameras are), they’re all very well built and can all take great photos, so don’t listen to anyone who says any one of them is terrible. However, there are practical differences, so we’re going to look at what each offers in different shooting situations.

Loyalty and inertia

This article primarily looks at the cameras themselves, but lenses should play a fundamental role in any decision. If you have no commitment to an existing system, you can skip ahead to the next slide, but if you already own some lenses, does that mean you have to stay on-brand?

It might be worth taking stock of how committed you really are to your existing lenses

Owners of Nikon lenses can adapt them to work on Sony cameras (and, in theory, someone enterprising could develop an F-mount to Canon RF adapter). But Nikon’s complex legacy of autofocus and aperture actuation systems mean adapting them to other bodies often gives a pretty poor experience. This gives the Nikon Z6 a bit of an edge for F-mount shooters but even then, any lens without its own AF motor is rendered manual focus only on the Nikon.

Legacy DSLR lens compatibility
Canon EF mount lenses Nikon F mount lenses Sony/Minolta A-mount lenses
Canon EOS R Full function (+ optional control ring or filter) Unproven or limited* Unproven or limited*
Nikon Z6 Unproven or limited* Full function with AF-S, AF-P and AF-I lenses. Others MF only Unproven or limited*
Sony a7 III Full Function with Sigma MC-11 or Metabones adapters Unproven or limited* Full Function
*While such adapters are theoretically possible, most that exist at the time of writing are simple adapter tubes with significant limitations in terms of focus and aperture control.

Canon EF lenses work similarly well on the EOS R and on the Sony a7 III, so need not be a deciding factor in making that choice (though long teles work better on the EOS R). If you own any other Canon accessories, that might tip you towards the EOS R, but if anything, Canon’s forward-thinking in the 1980s means EF lens owners have the most flexibility.

However, especially if you’re coming from APS-C, it might be worth stopping and taking stock of how committed you really are to your existing lenses. That prime lens you like so much on APS-C won’t fulfill the same role on full-frame. And if you only have one really great lens, you may find its second-hand value allows you to switch systems without too much of a loss.

Native lenses

With its five year headstart, Sony has a wider range of native lenses available for its E mount. Sony advocates point to the sheer number of lenses when trying to point-score, and it’s true that the company has developed some small lenses with fast, well optimized autofocus. But the E-mount is a relatively young, raw system and some of those lenses (the 28-70mm F3.5-5.6, the 85mm F1.4, 35mm F1.4 and 24-70s, for instance), possess various quirks in terms of optical quality or AF speed. Others, such as the 24-105mm F4 and 24mm F1.4 are fantastic, though.

These are all young systems so, as well as checking whether the lens you want exists, it’s probably worth researching their performance

However, it’s not safe to assume Canon and Nikon will steer clear of these same pitfalls. Canon’s 24-105mm F4 seems very good. It’s fast and quiet to focus and has been well optimized for video (presumably for some future body that’s good at video). But its 35mm F1.8 and 50mm F1.2 aren’t as snappy, either because they have a long focus throw (the 35mm is a Macro), or because they use ring-type focus motors better suited to DSLRs.

It’s a similar story with Nikon. The 24-70mm F4 is a solid all-round zoom but the bokeh on the 50mm F1.8 isn’t exactly attractive, which is disappointing on a 50/1.8 costing $ 600. Also, it’s interesting to note that the native Z-mount lenses appear to focus more slowly than some F-mount lenses designed for DSLRs. There’s a chance that from a future perspective, these early Z lenses will stand out as the ones to avoid if you want full AF performance on Z cameras.

Sony’s willingness to share its mount specs means an increasing degree of third-party support

Sony’s headstart, but also its willingness to share its mount specification means it has an increasing degree of third-party support. This spans the range from dedicated, full-function mirrorless-specific designs, such as Tamron’s 28-75mm F2.8 and Samyang’s 35mm F2.8, through to the modified DSLR lenses from Sigma and a host of niche manual focus lenses from smaller makers, such as Venus Optics. It’ll be interesting to see which of these get reverse-engineered to work with the RF and Z mounts, but neither camera maker seems supportive of this process.

Ultimately these are all young systems so, as well as checking whether the lens you want exists, it’s probably also worth doing some research into their performance, to ensure you’re not paying to be a guinea pig for a large corporation. You might also consider whether a good F4 zoom gives you much of a benefit over an F2.8 on APS-C. Or perhaps choose to wait to see how each system develops.

Core features

The three cameras have some similarities but there’s also a divergence of spec that suggests none of the camera makers have yet worked out who the target photographer is, and what they need.

The Sony and Nikon both offer 24MP sensors (which are likely to be pretty similar other than, perhaps, differences in phase-detection layout and masking). The Canon offers a variant of the 30MP Dual Pixel chip used in the EOS 5D IV. The difference between 24 and 30MP is pretty small: 11% in each direction, but that Dual Pixel design offers something distinctive.

The Sony has more control dials (three plus a dedicated exposure comp dial), while the other two have top-plate settings displays, which appear to be making an unexpected comeback. All three cameras are solidly built and have pretty comfortable hand grips, and each promises some degree of environmental sealing. The main handling difference is how the cameras let you choose your AF point:

AF Joystick Touchscreen AF Touchpad AF
Canon EOS R No Yes Yes
Nikon Z6 Yes Yes No
Sony a7 III Yes Yes Yes

However, while the a7 III’s touchscreen is put to good use for AF point control, it’s the least well utilized for other functions. Both the Canon and Nikon provide more extensive touch control of menus and settings, giving a more consistent experience.

One of the other big spec differences is that the Sony still uses a 2.36M dot viewfinder and 0.9M-dot rear screen, while the Nikon and Canon both go to 3.68M-dot finders and 2.1M dot touchscreens. Finally, the a7 III has a much larger battery than the other two, giving it a huge advantage.

But, rather than dwelling on specifications, we want to look at how the three cameras have performed in different shooting situations.

Portraits

Our choice: Sony a7 III

Anyone arriving from DSLRs is likely to be impressed by any of these cameras for portrait shooting. They can all focus precisely, even when using off-center AF points with a level of consistency that DSLRs can’t match, and will do so even if you choose to shoot with shallow depth-of-field.

The Sony is the easiest of the three to shoot portraits with. Eye-detection AF has existed for a while but Sony’s push-button implementation is hugely impressive for its ability to identify and tenaciously follow your subjects’ eyes. Canon’s Pupil Detection isn’t quite as dogged and only works for single AF acquisition, requiring that your subject stays much more still. It’ll happily focus the 50mm F1.2 wide-open, though, so it does its job.

All three cameras focus precisely, even when using off-center AF points in a way that DSLRs can’t match

The Nikon is weakest in this regard. Its Face Detection doesn’t focus specifically on eyes, so can leave focus mis-placed when working at wide apertures. Its small AF point is effective in some situations but the smaller ‘Pinpoint AF’ system is contrast-detect only, which can be too slow, both to position and to focus, so you’ll need much more patient subjects.

The Sony has the fastest flash sync speed, at 1/250th second but modern high-speed sync and the other cameras’ compatibility with their respective radio-frequency flash triggers may outweigh this small, 1/3EV advantage.

Historically Canon’s JPEG skintones have been widely admired (though the other two brands are closing this attractiveness gap). This may make no difference to you at all, though, if you have a well-honed Raw workflow.

The slightly smaller size of a Sony a7 III with something like the 85mm F1.8 might make it a touch less intimidating than the other, larger cameras, but it’s really the Eye-AF that makes the Sony stand out from the crowd for portraiture.

Sports and Wildlife

Our choice: Sony a7 III

None of these cameras is primarily intended as a sports or wildlife camera but it’s fair to consider how well they can dabble at it.

Sony’s subject tracking system is the best polished and most reliable of the three. The Canon also does well, albeit at a much slower frame rate, while the Nikon Z6 wrestles with an awkward interface and somewhat unreliable subject recognition. In more simple modes, trying to manually keep an AF point over your subject, the performance is more similar, and all three do a reasonable job of refreshing the viewfinder to let you follow action.

The Sony and Nikon both do a good job of balancing shooting speed and buffer depth, despite the Sony depending on the generally slower SD format. The Canon shoots away quite happily but at around half the speed of the other two.

Unsurprisingly, the Sony has the best native telephoto options, with the 100-400mm GM being especially good. The other two cameras do a decent job driving their respective DSLR tele lenses, though.

Overall, we see the Sony as the most reliable performer for sports and wildlife, with the other two falling behind, either in AF reliability or shooting speed.

Wedding and Events

Our choice: Sony a7 III

The price tags and feature sets of these cameras make clear that they’re not the dedicated pro cameras in their lineup, but cameras such as the Nikon D750 have raised expectations of what should be possible for the price. As such it’s fair to assess how well these will behave as second cameras for a professional wedding shooter or as the primary camera for someone shooting weddings as a side-line.

The once-in-a-lifetime nature of weddings is one of the few strong arguments for worrying about the number of card slots a camera has. Whether it’s for separate stills/video capture or the peace-of-mind that redundant backups bring, weddings are one of the areas where the Sony’s twin card slots give it an edge.

The once-in-a-lifetime nature of weddings is one of the few arguments for worrying about the number of card slots

Battery life again plays a big role when shooting weddings and events because, while it only takes a second or two to swap batteries, the need to charge-up spares just ends up adding another pre-event task and another thing to go wrong. The Sony can be expected to offer around twice the battery life of the Nikon and nearly three times that of the Canon.

The Sony’s AF performance, whether in terms of Eye-AF, subject tracking or low light performance, is the most flexible and dependable of the three. The EOS R continues to work in very low light, which is a major asset for this kind of work, making the EOS R and 50mm F1.2 a tempting option, though probably as a second camera.

Sony’s native lens lineup includes more of the classic workhorse lenses than the new RF or Z systems. That said, both the Canon and Nikon are compatible with DSLR-mount versions of these lenses, if you already have them (we wouldn’t generally recommend buying DSLR lenses specifically to adapt to a new system).

The Canon and Nikon are compatible with their respective brands’ RF and IR flash trigger systems, if you own or are renting strobes. That said, none of the three cameras will fire the focus assist lamp on these flashes, which can be a drawback.

Again, Canon’s much-liked JPEG color may play a role in your decision, depending on how much Raw processing your workflow usually entails.

Of the three, we’d feel most comfortable shooting a wedding with the Sony.

Video

Our choice: Nikon Z6

All three cameras promise 4K video, but that’s about where the similarities end. The Canon is clearly the weakest of the three in that it derives its video from a 1.83x cropped region of its sensor and does so with significant rolling shutter.

Both the Sony and Nikon use the full 16:9 region of their sensors, giving detailed, significantly oversampled video. Both have features such as focus peaking and zebra warnings, to help monitor focus and exposure, though the Nikon can’t do both simultaneously. Both cameras are similarly good at video AF.

The Sony and Canon can shoot Log footage internally but only do so in 8-bit, which can limit the files’ flexibility. The Nikon and Canon, meanwhile, will both output 10-bit Log footage to an external recorder over HDMI, giving an advantage in exactly the situations you might need to shoot Log.

The Nikon is the easiest of the trio for switching back and forth between stills and video

The Nikon pulls ahead by retaining separate exposure settings for stills and video. It also gives you the option to use different white balance and color settings. Furthermore, it allows you to define a different i-menu for video and stills shooting. And, in common with the Sony, it lets you define different custom buttons for stills and video. All this makes the Nikon the easiest of the trio for switching back and forth between the two shooting methods.

Ironically, the Canon comes closer to the Nikon in terms of ease of stills/video switching, again maintaining distinct exposure settings and buttons settings, though not distinct white balance settings. Unfortunately, in a camera without in-body stabilization to keep your horizons straight, that offers disappointing resolution, significant rolling shutter and the image quality of a sub-APS-C sensor. Still, it’s a positive sign for whatever comes next.

Of course, if you really find yourself getting into video, Sony’s E-mount is the only one of these three that currently has pro-grade video lenses and cameras available.

Landscape

Our choice: Nikon Z6 or Sony a7 III

Resolution and dynamic range are the critical image quality factors for landscape shooting. The Canon has the edge in resolution, while Sony (in uncompressed Raw mode, at least) wins out in terms of dynamic range. The Nikon is a fraction behind the Sony in this respect, as slight banding can be revealed from the deep shadows if you try to use its full dynamic range.

Close inspection makes the Nikon appear to have the most substantial weather sealing, but the Canon and Sony also make the same claims. The Sony is the only one that can be powered over USB while being used, somewhat ironically since it’s the one that lasts longest on its own battery. All three cameras can be charged over USB.

We’ve also found the Nikon the easiest of the three to operate while wearing gloves

The Nikon has a pretty sophisticated intervalometer and time-lapse move mode, which the other two lack. We’ve also found the Nikon the easiest of the three to operate while wearing gloves, with the Sony a little behind. The Canon and Sony don’t offer any internal interval shooting controls, which is a particular shame on the a7 III, since it can run from an external USB power source and its predecessor let you install a time-lapse function.

The Canon is alone in needing stabilized lenses if you don’t have a tripod, since the other two have in-body stabilization.

Travel

Our choice: Sony a7 III (but they’re all pretty good)

Travel is perhaps the most difficult use-case for any of these cameras, since it could require a little of everything. On top of the capabilities already discussed, all three have pretty good Wi-Fi systems for sharing your images with the people back home.

Some of the strongest lenses in all three systems are the 24-something F4 zooms, with the Canon and Sony examples extending out to a more versatile 105mm focal length. Nikon’s 24-70mm is smaller as a result of its shorter reach, though. Sony’s willingness to share its mount details means Tamron’s 28-75mm F2.8 should also be considered. All three cameras with these do-everything lenses make pleasant (if somewhat large) travel companions, though.

Some of the strongest lenses in all three systems are the 24-something F4 zooms, ideal for travel photography

Nikon’s weather sealing might be more reassuring when you’re out-and-about but its reliance on XQD cards might leave you in a tricky spot if you lose or fill your card on a long trip.

The Sony would probably be our favored travel camera, though. It’s the smallest of the three bodies and for now, at least, has a wider choice of small lenses. It’s got the most capable (though probably most complex) autofocus system, for shooting whatever you encounter. But, most significantly, it offers by far the best battery life.

Conclusion

Even without thinking about lenses, it’s clear that Nikon and Canon still have some work to do to catch up with Sony’s half-decade headstart. It’s not an insurmountable difference, though and both brands have brought their extensive experience of ergonomics and user interfaces, which Sony should probably be worried about.

The camera body you choose now is likely to commit you to a new lens system for the foreseeable future

All three cameras can produce excellent images but the Sony more readily adapts to a wider range of situations. The Nikon acquits itself well for certain types of photography, while also doing unexpectedly well at video, but the Z6 has the least dependable AF system of the trio, which counts against it. Canon has tried to make an easy-to-use camera, rather than simply mimicking its DSLRs, but, while we’re not fully convinced by the results of this first attempt, it’s still a very able camera.

Ultimately, though, the decision is likely to come down to what lenses you own, which lenses you plan to buy and how much faith you have in each company to produce camera bodies to match your needs, several years down the road. Because, if you’re trying to avoid major costs later, the camera body you choose now is likely to commit you to a new lens system for the foreseeable future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Huawei joins the “hole-punch” game with the Nova 4

17 Dec

Huawei has announced the latest model in its range of smartphones, the Nova 4. It’s the brand’s first device with a “hole-punch” front camera, that is mostly hidden behind the display and does away with the display “notch” found on many other high-end phones.

The Nova 4 isn’t the first phone with a “hole-punch” camera – that honor goes to the Samsung A8s – but it looks like its 25Mp front camera is peeking through a smaller-diameter hole than the Samsung’s, minimizing the “display disruption”.

Huawei sub-brand Honor has also already pre-announced its VIew 20 phone which seems to have a lot in common with the Nova 4. For starters, there’s the same “hole-punch” design and the two devices also share the same 48MP primary cameras on the rear.

The Nova 4 comes with a triple-cam setup, however, including a 2MP depth-sensor, while the main camera setup of the View 20 is still unknown. In terms of chipset the phones are going down different paths, though. The Nova 4 is powered by last year’s Kirin 970 processor; the View 20 phone will use the newer Kirin 980.

The Nova 4 display measures 6.4 inches and comes with a 2310 x 1080 resolution. 8GB of RAM are plenty and 128 of built-in storage offer space for a good number of images and video.

For now the Nova 4 has only been released in China where it will cost approximately $ 490 (3,399 yuan) but, like previous Nova models the phone will likely make it to other regions soon. If you don’t want to spend quite as much, there is also a cheaper variant ($ 450) that replaces the 48MP primary shooter with a more modest 20MP unit.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Day 1 delivery from The Photography Express

17 Dec

The post Day 1 delivery from The Photography Express appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Day 1 of The Photography Express

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The post Day 1 delivery from The Photography Express appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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