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Archive for December, 2018

How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos

23 Dec

The post How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter West Carey.

Sometimes 6, 7 or 12 frames per second (fps) isn’t fast enough to get the shot you want. Sometimes the action is so fast it is best to use a different concept altogether. I’m talking specifically about how to use high-speed video to capture action photos that you want.

1 - How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos

Think of it this way; standard frame rate for video is either 24fps or 30fps. That’s good, but may not be fast enough. Most smartphones these days can shoot 120fps, which makes them a possible tool for this technique. Or you can step up to a camera with much higher frame rates, maybe 480fps or even 1000fps.

No matter the camera, the technique below opens up a world of possibilities for freezing high-speed action.

I had a request from my client Andy Suzuki & The Method to capture slow-motion burning clocks for a music video, which turned out to be perfect material for this post.

Shooting

When shooting at a high speed, lighting can be critical, as it is with any quality photography. The high frame rate should be accompanied by a higher shutter speed, which can be accomplished with more light, an open aperture and higher ISO.

There are benefits and drawbacks to increasing each of these factors that depend on your intended outcome. I find Adobe Lightroom does a good job of cleaning up most ISO noise, so I prefer to increase the ISO before anything.

Adding more light is the next variable I would adjust. Although, as you can see in my example here, it was not an option. Next, I will adjust the aperture as open as I can make it while still ensuring my depth of field is adequate for my subject.

Grabbing the frame in Lightroom

Grabbing the appropriate frame in Lightroom is incredibly simple.

Downloading your video in Lightroom, and while in the Library Module, play your video until you get to the frame you desire. When you find it, hit ‘pause’. The forward and backward arrows can be used to step your video frame-by-frame until you find the frame you need. You can run this exercise multiple times if you need or want multiple frames.

2 - How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos

Once you have the frame you want on your screen, click on the rectangle at the bottom of the preview area.

There will be two options Capture frame and Set poster frame. Simply click Capture frame and a JPG of the frame will be stacked with the video.

3 - How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos

4 - How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos

The capture will be the same size as the original video. In this case, with high-speed video on a Sony RX-100 V, as demonstrated here, the image is 1920×1080. There will be some balance you need to strike in order to ensure the final image is large enough for your intended use.

Conclusion

High-speed video is an excellent way to produce images it would take hours to capture. Think of splashing on puddles, wine poured into a glass, breaking ice or any number of fast-moving subjects. The method described here does have some limitations, but it is fast, easy and just a bit of fun.

The post How to Use High-Speed Video to Capture Action Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter West Carey.


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DPReview TV: Best and worst of 2018

23 Dec

For weeks, we’ve been getting hammered with the question “Will Chris and Jordan continue their tradition of doing a Best and Worst year-end episode?”

Oh yes, dear readers, they will. And here it is. Pour yourself a cocktail and enjoy. And if you must, get ready to throw some rotten tomatoes at the screen if you don’t like their selections, and tell us why you disagree in the comments. They won’t take it personally – we promise.*

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

  • Introduction
  • Best Lens
  • Best Video
  • Best Camera
  • Worst Video
  • Worst Lens
  • Worst Camera
  • Wrap-up
  • Bonus Content

*They will probably take it personally, but go ahead and leave your comments anyway.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips For Converting To Black & White Photography

22 Dec

When shooting black and white fashion photography, how you convert from full-color Raw


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas Lights

22 Dec

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas Lights appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In the spirit of the Christmas season, this week’s photography challenge topic is CHRISTMAS LIGHTS!

You could take portraits using christmas/fairy lights, use the lights for creative bokeh, photograph Christmas trees or houses all lit up. So many possibilities!

Some Instagram Inspiration:

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Brandon Woelfel (@brandonwoelfel) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Chris Spoons (@chris.spoons) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Iggy & Michalina (@kanapowy_team) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Alyssa (@justagirlwithbraids) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Nikolay Dimitrov (@nikolay_dimitrov_photography) on

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting Christmas Lights

Step-by-step Guide to Long Exposure Photography

6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

How to Take Photos of Kids with a Christmas Tree Bokeh Background

How to Take Beautiful Bokeh Christmas Images [With 39 Stunning Examples]

 

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas Lights

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

 

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSChristmasLights to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

 

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas Lights appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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ON1 Photo RAW 2019 gets its first free update with tool enhancements and more

22 Dec

Photo software company ON1 has released its first free update for ON1 Photo RAW 2019. The new 2019.1 version features enhanced Focus Stacking, masking and portrait features, as well as improvements to the Lightroom plug-in and enhancements suggested by users.

The enhanced Focus Stacking feature offers more accurate image alignment and less speckling. Users now have the option output as layers with layer masks, as well, for additional manual adjustments. The Focus Stacking dialog and HDR window previews now include panning and zooming.

Other enhancements include better masking results when copying, pasting, and inverting, plus increased face auto-detection accuracy for portraits. The update adds the option to delete face selections, the Crop tool now remembers its preset across images, there’s the ability to import/export the keyword list, and other minor enhancements.

In addition to feature changes, Photo RAW 2019.1 adds support for the following cameras:

  • Nikon z6
  • Nikon D3500
  • Sony XH99
  • Pentax K-1 II
  • Fujifilm GFX 50R
  • Leica C-Lux

According to ON1, it is wrapping up work on its upcoming AI Quick Mask Tool, which will replace the original Quick Mask Tool. The feature wasn’t included with this update due to ‘some fine tuning’ that is still needed, but it will likely be released in a late January free update.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light

21 Dec

The post 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this video by Derrick Freske, you’ll learn 5 creative portrait lighting tricks using only phone light!

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Using only a phone light and some handy reflective props, you can achieve some of the great portrait photography looks in Derrick’s video.

Derrick’s tricks include using:

  1. A disco ball
  2. Scrapbooking paper
  3. Sequinned fabric
  4. Lace fabric
  5. Prism

Try these out and we’d love to see some in the comments section below.

Follow Derrick Freske on Instagram.

 

You may also find the following articles helpful:

How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits

How to Make a Dramatic Portrait with Light Painting Using Items Found in Your Home

Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait

How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting

One Speedlight Portrait Lighting Tutorial

The post 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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AgfaPhoto brand makes a comeback with budget cameras and digital albums

21 Dec

Agfa-Gevaert used to be an important player in the consumer camera space, but the company failed to keep up with digital developments and in 2004 the consumer imaging division was bought out by management and transferred into the Germany-based AgfaPhoto GmbH.

The new company filed for bankruptcy just one year later, however, and these days the Agfa brand is licensed by holding-firm AgfaPhoto Holding GmbH. Agfa-Gevaert’s has completely exited from consumer business and is focusing on industrial printing, health care and information systems.

Now we’re seeing a comeback of the AgfaPhoto brand on cameras, however. The brand has been licensed to French electronics sellers GT Company which has launched three new products for the comeback:

  • 21MP digital compact camera DC5200 with lithium battery for approximately $ 45 (39 Euros)
  • Digital Instant Camera Insta Shot IS210 that captures and prints 2.1’’ x 3.4’’ images for $ 113 (99 Euros)
  • A range of digital photo and video albums that range from 2,4” to 10” in display size and can store up to 4000 photos and 90 minutes of HD video. Prices range from $ 45 to $ 113 (39 to 99 Euros).

If these new rather simple models don’t quite tickle your fancy, have a trip down memory lane and take look at the Agfa digital cameras from times gone past on our camera hub.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Day 5: 24 Photography eBooks, $9 each, 24 hours only

21 Dec

The post Day 5: 24 Photography eBooks, $ 9 each, 24 hours only appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Day 5 The Photography Express

If you’ve been eyeing off some of our dPS titles, waiting for a sale, it’s time to make like a squirrel and go nuts! We’ve got the full Photo Nuts collection for 80% off and the rest of our eBooks just $ 9 USD.

We know that some of you may already have these titles. If so, please consider forwarding these offers to a friend who you’ve inspired with your own photography. We’d also love you to hit reply and tell us what topics you’d like covered in new eBooks or courses in 2019.

Deal #9 Learn the Nuts and Bolts of Photography with this Classic Collection 80% off

If you missed the recent 31 Days to Becoming a Better Photographer course, and you enjoy learning at your own convenience and pace, Neil Creek has covered all the fundamentals of photography in these Video Courses and Ebooks. You’ll be taking beautiful images in no time.

4 Photo Nuts eBooks

The collection includes:

  • Photo Nuts & Bolts Course – Normally $ 99
  • Photo Nuts & Shots Course – Normally $ 99
  • Photo Nuts & Bolts eBook – Normally $ 29
  • Photo Nuts & Shots eBook – Normally $ 29
  • Photo Nuts & Gear eBook – Normally $ 29
  • Photo Nuts & Post eBook – Normally $ 19

Pretty much everything you need to get off auto and confidently enjoy your photography.

Just $ 59 USD you save $ 245 (that’s 80% off) for just 24 hours only!

Take me to the deal

Looking to learn something new over the holidays? Browse our eBook titles and find something you can get started on this holiday season.

Deal #10 All dPS eBooks just $ 9 USD

With 24 titles in our eBook store there’s loads to choose from. If you see more than one that you like you can create your own little bundle of photography training and still not break the budget.

Includes our latest release Wedding Photography eBook and our most valuable title Going Pro (save 80% on this one). Other popular titles include:

  • Living Landscapes – Normally $ 19
  • Black and White Photography – Normally $ 19
  • Transcending Travel – Normally $ 19

All eBooks just $ 9 (save up to 80%) for just 24 hours only!

See all eBooks on sale

We hope you find a gem or two among our collection to learn something new for 2019.

We offer a 60-day money back guarantee, so you can easily buy now to secure the deal and if it’s not right for you, we’ll refund you.

Don’t miss the last two deals – sign up here for The Photography Express!

Disclosure: We receive a commission from our partners if you buy via our promotion, but it is at no cost to you. In fact, you’re getting an even better price than usual!

The post Day 5: 24 Photography eBooks, $ 9 each, 24 hours only appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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Gear of the Year 2018 – Richard’s Choice: Fujifilm’s 4K video cameras

21 Dec

My Gear of the Year pick relates to the photos I’ve most enjoyed taking and the ones I’m most proud of. I’ve chosen the kit I used to shoot my favorite images of the year: all 17,100 of them. Specifically two series of 8MP images. Shot at a rate of 23.97 frames per second.

Because, while I’ve been rather enjoying thinking in 1:1 terms for Instagram this year and have had a chance to engage with and shoot some experienced models in pre-lit setups, the thing I’ve enjoyed most of all this year has been shooting and editing 4K video from the Fujifilm X-H1 and X-T3.

The great outdoors

The first opportunity came in April, when I took some time off work to walk Hadrian’s Wall: the path of a Roman fortification that ran across the North of England. I had to choose a camera that I could carry on my back for five consecutive days, along with a week’s clothes and full wet-weather gear. This ruled out the GFX 50S because, while I thought it would be funny to haul a massive great medium format lump out of my bag every time I wanted to take a picture, it also struck me as the kind of joke that would wear thin pretty quickly.

When planning for my trip, I wasn’t sure what sorts of things I’d be shooting.

My next thought was the Sony a7 III. It’s a terrific camera for both stills and video, but the more I thought about which lenses to take, the more it started to creep towards GFX proportions (the Sony 35mm F1.4 is optically very good but it’s neither small, nor especially light).

The compromise ended up being the Fujifilm X-H1 paired with a 23mm F2 and 18mm F1.8. This little kit, plus a vari-ND filter, filter adapter so it would fit both lenses and a USB battery pack to keep both the camera and my phone alive during the trip, ended up being pretty convenient. Two card slots meant I could have a big, fast card dedicated to video and stills going to the other slot (perhaps the first time I’ve found this feature useful).

The X-H1 and a pair of lenses was light enough that I didn’t mind carrying it for five days.

The video I captured is somewhat shambolic: I’d not really decided whether I was going to shoot video or stick mainly to stills until the second day of the walk, by which stage I was a Transatlantic flight away from any of the audio equipment from the office and a day’s walk from anywhere I could buy some. The result is an audio track that’s primarily WHSSHHHSSSSSWUHWUHWUHHHHHHHHHind noise.

There were certainly times I wished for something wider than the 34mm equiv of an 18mm lens.

But the footage itself is better than I could have hoped for. Highlight warnings gave me enough information to exposure correctly and the camera’s stabilization meant I could shoot hand-held, so long as I didn’t try to pan (which the IS would try to fight against). But the levels of detail are stunning, even when downscaled for playback on a lower-res device.

It’s hard to argue with this level of detail (shot hand-held into a significant headwind).

The final result is too long, too rough and too personal to be shared here, but it’s ended up being an excellent memento of something I hope to remember for the rest of my life. Which presumably isn’t why the color mode is called Eterna, but still.

Back in Seattle

The video I shot with the X-T3 has things in common with my X-H1 project in that both depict events with an inherent narrative: The X-H1 video follows a path from Carlisle to Wallsend, and the X-T3 follows the creation of a sculpture from a roughly-shaped lump of clay through to being a finished, painted object. But beyond that, they couldn’t be more different. The X-T3 project was much more planned, in the sense that I went into it with a much clearer picture of what I wanted to shoot. I even remembered to think about audio for most of the shoot.

Without any in-body stabilization I had to teach myself how to use a handheld gimbal if I wasn’t going to be limited to tripod shots (itself an enjoyable process). But, unlike the X-H1, I was able to use the full width of the sensor. (I’d ended up using the 18mm lens for almost all of my UK video, since the X-H1’s 4K crop gives it a wide-ish 34mm equivalent field of view, leaving me without the wide and wide-ish combination I thought I’d packed). Moreover I felt much more able to trust the camera’s autofocus than I had with the older camera.

Again, I shot primarily in Eterna, but the T3 also gave me the option to shoot 10-bit Log, for the times I needed to capture more dynamic range, with the knowledge that Fujifilm provides an F-Log to Eterna LUT to make sure it matched the rest of my footage.

The final video is one of the best things I’ve done in any medium for quite some time, in part thanks to the lessons I’d learned on my UK trip.

To end the video I had the idea of a matched transition: lining-up the two shots I wanted to fade between.

Both are really good stills cameras, of course and I’ve had a number of positive experiences of shooting with them both. But it’s been the process of shooting and editing these two videos I’ve really enjoyed. For instance, I knew I wanted to start and finish the X-T3 video in a natural setting. I’d worked out the transition at the beginning, but I couldn’t work out how to get back again at the end. Having the idea of a matched transition (even if I’ve not edited it perfectly) was one of the single most satisfying creative moments I’ve had in a very long time.

I remain primarily a keen stills photographer, and both the X-H1 and X-T3 are superb stills cameras, as well as really capable video tools.

I still think of myself primarily as a keen amateur photographer. But after my experience along Hadrian’s Wall, my favorite cameras are increasingly the ones that make it easy for me to shoot some stills, grab some video, then go back to shooting stills. All the brands are getting better at this, but with the X-H1 and X-T3, Fujifilm got closest, first.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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3 Practical Tips to Improve Your Blue Hour Photography

21 Dec

The post 3 Practical Tips to Improve Your Blue Hour Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.

1 - 3 Tips for Blue Hour Photography

Most people are familiar with the term Golden Hour – used to describe that time just after the sun rises or just before it sets. The light is soft, extraordinary and sought out by many. However, if you pack up your gear when the sun drops below the horizon, you are missing out on another magical time!

Also known as twilight, Blue Hour refers to that time of the day just before or after the Golden Hour. Depending on your location, it may be shorter (or longer) than an hour but happens before sunrise or after sunset. If you want to capture images of this amazing time of day, here are a few tips to help you get started.

1. Timing is everything

There is a unique quality of light available at blue hour. The sky has a vivid hue of blue and purple. Perhaps even hints of your fallen sunset, cresting sunrise colors: yellow, orange and red. In either case, the sun is below the horizon, but its light is indirect and still visible. If you are shooting cityscapes after sunset, wait for the lights to come on and for the sky to darken a little, so you can shoot longer exposures.

2 - 3 Tips for Blue Hour Photography

As mentioned above, depending on your location your Blue “Hour” will vary. If you are closer to the equator, both the Golden and Blue “Hours” are shorter. Similarly, you have more shooting time when further away from the equator. Blue Hour times vary by season and, depending on the time of year and location, may not even occur immediately before or after the Golden Hours. There are locations where blue hour happens up to forty-five minutes after sunset!

3 - 3 Tips for Blue Hour Photography

When in an unfamiliar environment (e.g. traveling), one option is to get there early and wait. There are also apps and websites available to help you determine Blue Hour based on location. If you use the latter, scouting your environment beforehand still proves useful.

2. Keep it steady

4 - 3 Tips for Blue Hour Photography

Same location as above, but at a different time of the year

You may get away with shooting sunrises and sunsets without a tripod, but it is non-negotiable for blue hour. This is especially true if you want to shoot cityscapes with a smaller aperture (to get those beautiful starbursts). A tripod is a must for long exposures and allows you to shoot at lower ISOs, thus reducing noise in your images.

You can further reduce camera shake by using a remote shutter release. This useful gadget helps you minimize touching the camera. If you do not have a remote, use your camera’s timer, so that the image is taken a few seconds after you press the shutter button.

Bonus tip: Long exposures use more battery power, so pack a few spares.

3. What settings?

There is some flexibility when it comes to Blue Hour photography, depending on your subject.

If you are shooting a cityscape or skyline, most likely you want to keep your buildings sharp. In an image like this, your depth of field (f-number) will determine your settings. You can start at f/8 and go higher – keeping in mind that a higher f-number means a slower shutter speed.

5 - 3 Tips for Blue Hour Photography

If you are shooting light trails from cars against your blue sky, your shutter speed will determine your settings. This interesting subject comes to life with slower shutter speeds. On the other hand, if you want to freeze action in your Blue Hour, you need faster shutter speeds. Due to the lower light available during Blue Hour, this may mean shooting at lower f-numbers and increasing your ISO.

6 - 3 Tips for Blue Hour Photography

Conclusion

Blue hour is a beautiful part of the day that is often overlooked for the more popular Golden Hour. It is an amazing time to experiment with different captures and challenge yourself to work quickly in your limited “hour”. Plan ahead and envision your outcome, so you can maximize this time of day. Cityscapes and other subjects can come alive due to the unique quality of light available. Experiment, have fun and share some of your Blue Hour photography below.

The post 3 Practical Tips to Improve Your Blue Hour Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.


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