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Archive for November, 2018

Tamron firmware updates brings Nikon Z6/Z7 compatibility to select lenses

20 Nov

Lens maker Tamron has released new firmware that makes three of its lenses compatible with Nikon’s new mirrorless full-frame models Z6 and Z7 and the FTZ adapter that allows for the use of Nikon F-mount lenses on the new mirrorless Z-mount. The firmware is available for the following lenses:

  • SP 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC USD G2 (Model A025) for Nikon
  • SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Model A022) for Nikon
  • 17-35mm F/2.8-4 Di OSD (Model A037) for Nikon

The new firmware can be installed using Tamron’s optional TAP-in Console. Alternatively lenses can be sent in to Tamron for the technical service to apply the update. In the US you can call Tamron USA’s service department at 1-800-827-8880 for more information. In other regions you should contact your local distributor.

An an up-do-date list of available firmware versions can be found on the Tamron support website. If your Tamron lens has not been updated for Nikon Z compatibility yet, keep an eye on this page as new updates will be posted as they become available.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Some Kansas City hotspots ban photography over growing disruptions

20 Nov

A number of Kansas City metro hotspots are putting up “No Trespassing” signs that specifically state ‘No Photographers,’ according to local FOX affiliate WDAF. The restrictions were prompted by ‘a few bad apples’ who would set up props for photoshoots in lobbies, doorways, and places that block traffic, the report states.

Both commercial and Instagram photography is reportedly disrupting certain iconic regions and businesses in Kansas City. Brett Judson, owner of local business Coven KC, explained to WDAF, ‘Besides setting up their fake house in our lobby, in our front door, they will block all the traffic under the 12th Street bridge to get that, like, beautiful family photo or a wedding photo.’

Some local photographers are speaking up about the issue, stating a minority of individuals are giving the entire profession a bad name. One such photographer is Marsha Baylor, who will join colleagues in cleaning up litter in some of Kansas City’s hotspots to help make the point.

‘They’re not the norm,’ Baylor told the local news station. ‘We are the norm. We are the people that step up and say, “This is not OK. This is not how the majority of us run our businesses.'”

Kansas City currently requires photographers to get a permit when shooting in parks if the sessions will ‘impact others and/or the environment,’ which includes using ‘lots of props/equipment,’ according to city parks’ website. A city spokesperson speaking to WDAF pointed out that there are no laws restricting photographers from shooting while on public property, but that doing so on private property with posted signs can be a trespassing issue.

In addition, Missouri Department of Conservation spokesman Bill Graham stated that the agency is working on a new policy that will impact commercial photography and videography in all of the region’s conservation areas.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits

20 Nov

Planning and being intentional about your street photography portraits will affect the quality of your pictures. Have a clear idea of what you want to achieve. Think about what you need to do and where you need to be. Consider the time of day and how the light is. When will you most likely see a lot of people out and about?

The more purposeful you are about your street photography and what you want to achieve, the more you will build your own style.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Happy Market Porter in Chiang Mai

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Snapping or Anticipating

Grabbing the action as it happens requires a tight combination of skill and good luck. Anticipating potential action before it happens can often mean you get more consistently good photographs. Either approach is a matter of personal taste and style.

I prefer to find a location where I’m comfortable, not in anyone’s way and not in the hot sun. Somewhere that gives me a good angle to capture the action as it happens.

Having a good knowledge of the location helps a lot. Being aware of the flow of life in any particular place will help you anticipate when you might get the best photos.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Market Shopping With Dad In Chiang Mai, Thailand © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Traveling often brings you to different and unfamiliar places. Learning to stop and observe before you photograph will give you a useful sense of the place.

In your own neighborhood, you should be more familiar with the pace of life and the feel of the streets. But it still doesn’t hurt to pause and pay attention. Look at what’s happening and see the patterns and repetitions.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Street Shave © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Find a balance between planning and spontaneity. Be ready. Over-planning can kill the natural feel. You don’t want to be creating overly contrived street photos. We’ve all seen too many of them.

Set Your Camera Subconsciously

Knowing your camera, especially its basic operations, is vital to capturing the decisive moments. It takes frequent and focused practice. If you rarely use your camera it’s harder to work with it fluidly.

Choose settings you’re comfortable with. Aperture priority is often popular because with street portraits there’s likely to be some movement. In aperture priority mode you can set your shutter speed so it’s fast enough to avoid motion blur.

When making portraits in the streets you generally have no control over the lighting. You need to choose appropriate locations where the light is good when you can. If you see someone you want to photograph and the light isn’t good, you’ll need to make some creative choices.

Aperture priority or any of the auto modes may allow you to make pictures more quickly. The downside is you’re restricted to whatever exposure the camera chooses unless you use exposure compensation. But this can slow you down as you may not have compensation applied when you most need it.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Buying Fruit © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Learning manual mode allows you to have tighter control of your exposures, and to know at a glance exactly what settings you’re working with. Yes, it takes more practice. But unless you practice you’ll never know the advantages you have when you’re in control. If you’re happy using an auto mode, stick with it and enjoy yourself.

Whatever mode you use, be confident with it. Being able to use your camera without having to focus on it allows you to participate more in your environment, which is particularly important when you’re making portraits.

To Connect or Not To Connect

I often like to connect and engage with the people I photograph in the streets. Whether you connect or not is a personal choice. But it can make a meaningful difference in the style of portraits you create.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Vendors Enjoying Their Portrait Being Made © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

This couple sells eggs at their stall at a local rural market not far from our house. I hadn’t been to this market before and found it fascinating. Out of the thousands of people there, I seemed to be the only Caucasian. It wasn’t a tourist spot, and the locals obviously didn’t encounter foreigners often.

My intention was to photograph them. I started by photographing their trays and bags of eggs. While doing so I paid attention to their comfort level. If they seemed awkward with my presence I wouldn’t have talked with them. But they were happy and relaxed, so I asked if I could make their portrait. They gave me a positive response.

In other circumstances, it’s best to just stand back and let life go on. Interrupting the flow can prevent you from getting natural images. I never hide my camera. I’m constantly looking to see whether the people I photograph are uncomfortable with my presence. Being in northern Thailand I find this approach is important. People here are generally very polite and I think it’s important to show respect.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Life Goes On © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Cultures and the nature of people vary from country to country. Even in the same country, the characteristics of people can be vastly different. For example, people in Bangkok tend to be less friendly and relaxed. Wherever you’re making street portraits, it’s important to have a feel for the location and the vibe of the people.

Sometimes it’s best to boldly get in people’s faces. In other locations with other people, this could land you in trouble. Read situations carefully and adjust the way you do things to suit.

If you choose to approach people and engage with them, be aware that your manner will influence them. Greeting someone with a smile and showing interest in them and what they’re doing usually brings a positive response. Even if they decline to have their portrait made, you can stills enjoy some conversation.

Being confident with your camera when you do engage with someone means you can give your attention to them and not so much to your camera.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Samlor in Chiang Mai, Thailand © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Practice Your Method Consistently

Method is important. Find your groove and stick with it. If you try something only once, you’ll never master it. If you frequently change methods it will take a long time to build your skills and style.

Find the camera settings and lens you enjoy the most and use them. Pick locations you’re comfortable with and revisit them often. Get a feel for what happens there and how to photograph it. Go there when the light and activity are positive for you.

Connect or not. Try both ways, even if you’re uncomfortable to connect with strangers. I used to be petrified too. Working as a newspaper photographer I had to push myself beyond my comfort zone. And that made me a better photographer.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Happy Kid © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Repeating the same method of making street portraits will help you get a feel for your favorite way of working. Find your groove, but don’t get stuck in a rut. When you’re not enjoying it as much anymore it’s time to change before your creativity stagnates.

Try This

Choose your location and time of day you’re most likely to make some street portraits.

Learn How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits Happy Kid © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Visit this place five or ten times and make at least five portraits when you don’t engage with your subjects. Then do it again, only this time make at least five portraits when you do engage. You may be uncomfortable when you start. But if you persevere you may just find that you love the experience and make some great portraits.

The post How To Easily Improve Your Street Photography Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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A Behind-The-Scenes Look at a Family Photo Session

19 Nov

You’re probably used to seeing perfect family photos on Pinterest. After all, photographers love showing their best work. But you’ll learn a lot more from seeing an entire family photo session rather than just one perfect photo.

So today I’m giving you a glimpse into one of my traditional family photo sessions. I’ll tell you what gear I used, my thought processes during the shoot, how many photos it took to get a keeper, and how your mistakes can help you develop as a photographer.

I’ll show you the good, the bad, and the photos I didn’t even let the family see.

Family photo tips - golden sunlight

I love photos like this with golden back light in idyllic scenes. But the reality is for every ‘perfect’ photo like this there are dozens (if not hundreds) that don’t look so nice.

Gear

For this family photo session, I used a Nikon D7100. For most of the photos, my lens was an 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5, although a few were taken with a 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 lens. I decided to shoot in RAW and JPEG but only processed the RAW files using Lightroom.

Family photo tips - lightrrom

Lightroom is my favorite post-processing program. I had 982 photos from this session. To narrow them down I flag the photos that stand out to me and then highlight the final keepers in yellow.

The Session

This session is from my earlier days as a family photographer. I  chose it because there was a lot I hadn’t learned yet, and I’d rather show you a tough session because it will help you a lot more.

There was an infant and most of the kids were under five. Thankfully, I had a lot of experience photographing young kids after being a school photographer for a couple of years.

The aim was to get a variety of photos of the family, siblings and individual kids.

Family photo tips - sooc

This photo is straight out of the camera (SOOC) and is typical of the photos I ended up with. It can be really challenging to get a family of six to all look at the camera and smile at the same time. One or two kids are always looking away or not smiling. Inevitably, the mom and dad end up looking at the kids instead of the camera. You’ll need to learn to capture their attention.

 

Family photo tips - sunflower field

This is what the photos look like after editing with Lightroom. It took 70 photos to get this one. I was discouraged, but it taught me that I needed to get better at interacting with groups.

 

Family photo tips - siblings

This photo is SOOC. It can be really tough to get four siblings (one of them an infant) to look at the camera and smile at the same time. It helps to have a parent or assistant standing directly behind you to get their attention. That person should be playful and silly to engage the kids. This is far better than having adults off to the side yelling at the kids to “look here!”

 

Family photo tips - siblings

This is a nice photo after editing with Lightroom. It took 33 bad photos to get this good one.

 

Family photo tips - siblings

Sometimes you’ve got to let little kids get the silliness out of them. Why shouldn’t a photo session be fun for them? But be careful. Sometimes letting them be silly unleashes too much craziness. Honestly, I think they were much happier by this point.

 

Family photo tips - siblings

By now, you can see that most of my photos were underexposed. I had to brighten them a lot in Lightroom. Now I use a combination of aperture priority and exposure compensation. I aim for the brightest exposure I can without overexposing it. Them I can make final adjustments in Lightroom.

 

Family photo tips - siblings

This final photo (edited in Lightroom) has a pretty relaxed feeling to it. I’m not always looking for stillness and perfect posture in a photo.

 

Family photo tips - children

I found it much easier working with each child individually. I could connect with each of them and provoke nice expressions. As a group, it’s difficult to engage them all at once.

 

Family photo tips - infant

SOOC. Typically, infants don’t sit up very well on their own, especially while sitting on bales of hay. I always have a parent sitting nearby to steady them. They pull their arm away for a few seconds while I’m snapping photos.

 

Family photo tips - infants

When they’re in a good mood it’s so much fun to make an infant smile.

 

Family photo tips - infants

Infants and toddlers can be really tough to photograph when they’re in a bad mood. They need lots of snacks (but not bribes) and time to be themselves between photos.

This photo session should teach you the value of paying attention to your exposure in the moment. Watch your histogram and use exposure compensation to make adjustments.

Practice engaging kids and small groups of people so you can do it effortlessly at photo sessions.

Don’t worry that it might take you 10–20 photos to get one worth keeping. That’s pretty normal for many photographers.

One thing I hadn’t learned at this stage was the creative power of angles. Angles and candid moments are now the most important part of my approach to family photo sessions. The creative use of angles in combination with candid moments help make each photo more unique and personal.

Candid Moments

While I had a fair bit of photography experience at this point (yearbook, several weddings, school photos, and some families),  I certainly hadn’t developed my own vision or style. But this session was part of that development.

I share these candid photos with you because it was photos such as these that helped me develop as a photographer and made me who I am today.

Family photo tips - candid

This photo was taken right at the beginning on the way out to the sunflower field. You can take candid photos at the beginning of the session as a way to warm up and get everyone used to the camera.

 

Family photo tips - candid

This was a quiet moment before the session began. I love the soft light on the mom’s face.

 

Family photo session - candid

This is a pretty good example of letting infants and toddlers explore during the session. They’re curious about the world around them. So let them explore and you’ll likely make some great candid photos.

 

The last place we took a family photo was outside a big barn. The girls played with the barn cats and I couldn’t resist a few photos (even though I felt like my job was to focus on posed photos). My camera misfocused, so this picture is blurry. But there’s something so priceless about the moment that I consider this photo worth keeping anyway. I actually find something nostalgic about the misfocus. It doesn’t look so bad as a small print or on a small screen. But I wouldn’t give this to the family or put it in my portfolio.

 

Family photo tips - walking

This photo of the family walking together was captured as we moved from one location to the other. These days I plan a circuit for sessions and capture candid photos between locations.

 

Family photo tips - infant

This candid moment came after a few posed photos with the mom and her little one.

Final Thoughts

If you’re in the early stages of being a family photographer, don’t feel bad if you haven’t settled in yet. Keep persevering through the tough moments and you’ll grow. Those rare photos that make your heart skip a beat are clues to who you will become as a photographer. Pursue more of those, but understand that you also need to pursue lots of other things because you never know what will make your heart skip a beat.

Family photo tips - dancing

I saved this photo for last because it was one of the moments that changed me forever as a photographer. While I was photographing the mom and little sister I looked over and saw the big sister dancing on the path. To me, it was the essence of childhood. It didn’t take me 70 tries to get this shot. In fact, right after I took this photo she stopped dancing and posed. To this day, dancing is part of many photo sessions.

What else do you need to know?

I’m happy to share anything about this family photo session with you. Let me know in the comments what else would be helpful to you.

The post A Behind-The-Scenes Look at a Family Photo Session appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Zhiyun-Tech adds zoom, smartphone control on its new Crane 3 Lab gimbal

19 Nov

Gimbal manufacturer Zhiyun-Tech has introduced zoom control as well as focus control for its new flagship model, the Crane 3 Lab. The new model, which is now ready to ship this month, will allow also feature a transmission system that will send full HD footage from the camera to a smartphone or tablet for more convenient monitoring of the footage as it is recorded.

The company has redesigned the grip of the gimbal with a second handle that extends from the rear of the device that makes working in the underslung position, and the process of getting there from the ‘normal’ upright position, much smoother. The second handle has an updated control panel for accessing menus as well as for controlling the gimbal and some of the features of the camera in use. The panel has an improved LED screen and the grip more buttons and physical control points so users don’t need to access the menu so often.

A bracket has been added to the main stem of the gimbal that is designed to hold a smartphone that can be used to help control the gimbal. With the camera connected via HDMI to the new built-in transmission box an HD preview of the footage being recorded by the camera is sent directly to a wirelessly connected smartphone.

Using the Zhiyun app on either Android or iOS devices the picture can be monitored and the gimbal itself can be controlled. The phone can be used as a motion control sensor so the gimbal will mirror the movements of the phone, or simple on-screen icons can drive gimbal rolls, tilts and turns. The focus and zoom of the lens attached to the camera can also be controlled via the app or by using a pair of wheels on the body of the gimbal.

Below is a demonstration of the Crane 3 Lab in action, captured and shared by Cinema5D:

Zhiyun says that it has made the arms of the gimbal a bit longer to allow it to accommodate large cameras, and the maximum weight it can shoulder has risen to 4.5kg/9.9lbs (minimum weight is 500g/1lb). New motors have double the torque of those in the Crane 2, and perform with half the noise and will much improved speed of response. The 2600mAh battery runs for 7.5hours and charges in 4, and has been repositioned from inside the main grip.

The Zhiyun Crane 3 Lab is due out later this month, and will cost $ 899. For more information see the Zhiyun-Tech website

Press release

Zhiyun Announces 2018’s Best DSLR Camera Stabilizer, CRANE 3 LAB

4.5kg payload, wireless image transmission, remote control, and synchronous zoom/focus

Shenzhen, China, November 14th, 2018, Zhiyun, the world’s leading gimbal manufacturer, is pleased to announce the all-new CRANE 3 LAB gimbal for professional DSLR and cinema-grade cameras. The CRANE 3 LAB is the most anticipated stabilizer of 2018 and revolutionizes the way stabilizers will be designed as it features a unique L-shaped design. Defining new features that make the CRANE 3 LAB stand out in the gimbal market are its wireless image transmission system and ViaTouch Control System to allow anyone to shoot the best footage with the CRANE 3 LAB, whether working alone or as a team.

The CRANE 3 LAB sports a protruded control stick which provides stability and comfort. It creates a natural and ergonomic way to hold your stabilizer in a traditional vertical manner, or underslung for low-angle shots. The handheld tripod at the base is used as an extra grip and can easily be removed for high-activity shots with the least amount of interference.

In underslung mode, the CRANE 3 LAB is perfectly balanced for one-handed use, a testament to its build quality and high-quality materials. Despite its low weight and light feel, the CRANE 3 LAB supports camera setups up to 4.5 kg / 10 lbs.

CRANE 3 LAB – The perfectly controllable stabilizer
The CRANE 3 LAB features an advanced control stick with a bright OLED display that shows vital information about the camera and the CRANE 3 LAB itself, such as shutter speed, ISO setting, aperture, as well as battery and connection status. It also features the most common settings buttons, a quick-select control dial, and gimbal joystick, all within a finger’s reach, making switching settings on-the-go a breeze. The hands-on control method works no matter at what angle the CRANE 3 LAB is used. Popular features from other Zhiyun products are also introduced, such as an easy Pan-Follow/Lock switch and the popular PhoneGo mode, which turns the motors into overdrive to film high-performance sports and action scenes.

Advanced wireless operation
As a part of Zhiyun’s premium LAB features, the CRANE 3 LAB is equipped with a wireless image transmission system that allows smartphones and tablets to function as a Full HD monitor, reducing the need for an external monitor. Beyond use as just an external monitor, the ViaTouch Control System allows for remote operation of the CRANE 3 LAB through any Android or iOS device running the ZY Play app. Controlling the CRANE 3 LAB can be done through a touch-interface or through motion-control. This allows for perfect framing of shots, even when the operator is not near the gimbal. Using ViaTouch allows for advanced features like follow focusing and object-tracking through a connected device, to allow a new level of footage to be shot with the CRANE 3 LAB.

Synchronous Zoom/Focus
The CRANE 3 LAB supports synchronous zoom and focus on almost all cameras with the TransMount Servo Zoom/Follow Controller Max & TransMount Servo Zoom/Follow Controller Lite. With the zoom trigger and the focus wheel, filmmakers have instant control of the zoom and focus which gives an instantaneous response of the actions performed by the filmmaker. This is a huge benefit over last-generation products that can only realize either one of zoom or focus function at a time. The TransMount Servo Controllers are available separately or through the Creator & Master Package.

CRANE 3 LAB bundles with TransMount accessories
The Creator and Master Package of the CRANE 3 LAB come with all the TransMount accessories to level-up your shooting experience. Included in the Creator Package are the TransMount phone holder with crown gear, servo focus & zoom combo kits, telescopic monopod (1.2m/4ft) with locking buckle, camera belt, quick release base plate, and quick setup kit, which adds quick-release options for the monopod or tripod. The Master Package adds a protective and durable gimbal backpack to the package.

Rethinking the DSLR camera stabilizer
The CRANE 3 LAB was developed based on the feedback of many users of Zhiyun CRANE products. For easier setup and maximum portability, each axis/motor has a locking-tab in bright red sturdy aluminum, to lock each axis in place for balance or during transportation. Additionally, each axis is longer and together with the stronger, aviation-grade engines, allowing it to operate with almost all best-selling DSLR cameras and lenses on the market. Power is provided by universally available 18650 batteries that can be easily swapped or charged through a USB port, for up to a promised 7,5 hours of runtime.

Pricing and availability
The CRANE 3 LAB will be available for preorder at major photo retailers including B&H for $ 899:

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

19 Nov

The first lens many photographers will own is the kit lens. This lens typically covers a focal range of 18-55mm and has a variable maximum aperture. So before you move onto other lenses, how can you get the most out of this particular lens? Well, there is an awful lot that can be achieved with this lens when you put your mind to it. There are limitations of course, but there is even more room to experiment with your kit lens creativity! So let’s look at some of the ways you can do just that.

Kinetic Light Painting - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

This photo used the kit lenses ability to zoom to do some kinetic light painting.

1 – Kinetic Light Painting

Light painting is an exciting form of photography and one that you can experiment with using a humble kit lens. What the kit lens is well suited for is a niche form of light painting, called kinetic light painting. This form of light painting involves moving the camera, as opposed to moving the light source. Light painting uses a long exposure, and as with all long exposure shots, it’s a good idea to use a tripod. So what types of kinetic light painting will work well?

  • Camera rotation – This is a type of light painting that involves moving the camera around while it is attached to a tripod. Use a wide focal length, and experiment with light sources that are above the camera. Tall structures like skyscrapers often work well for this technique.
  • Zoom – The 18-55mm focal range is ideal for zoom light painting work, good for kit lens creativity. In fact, perhaps the only better lens would be a superzoom 18-300mm. This time you’ll change the focal length of the lens during the photo, causing light to be painted across the scene.
Panning - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

Panning is a great technique to practice, and it’s fun.

2 – Panning

While it’s true you can use more or less any lens for panning, you don’t need an upgrade from your kit lens to make this type of photo either. In fact, a focal length of around 55mm is often ideal for this particular technique. You simply require a shutter speed of around 1/20th second. There are some excellent guides on this subject, and the technique is simple and fun to master.

  1. Find an area where you’re moving subject will move across the area you intend to photograph. You’ll want your moving object to run parallel to you, relative to where you’re positioned.
  2. Use a shutter speed of around 1/20th. You can increase or decrease this if you wish. At slower shutter speeds the chance of camera shake increases, so you will need to be very steady when tracking the motion of the object you’re panning. It’s possible to use a faster shutter speed for panning, but then you’ll need a fast moving object to pan with.
  3. As the object you’re panning approaches, begin to follow the motion with your camera. When you’re confident you’re following the motion steadily, press your shutter gently as you continue to move with the object.
Zoom Burst - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

Using your lens for long exposure photos can be creative.

3 – Zoom Burst

You’ll notice zoom is a kinetic light painting technique. It can also be used during the day, to create a dynamic feel to your photo. The shutter speed needed is similar to that of panning, so around 1/20th. You can also use a tripod for extra stabilization of your photo. It’s best to zoom into your subject when practicing this technique, which can work very nicely for portrait photos. Once again the kit lens is well suited to this since it allows a zoom range from 18mm to 55mm.

4 – Glass Ball Refraction Photography

Refraction photography is a niche that can use any kind of camera. You can certainly use a kit lens to get this type of photograph. The technique revolves around using a crystal ball, though other objects such as wine glasses filled with water will work. When you consider that a glass ball works like an external lens optic, in a sense, you’re getting your creativity from another lens. However, you still need a kit lens to take the photo! As these photos work best with a blurred background look to photograph at 55mm, and with the largest aperture you can.

Refraction - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

In this photo, a wine glass was used to show refraction.

5 – Low-Key Light Portrait

You don’t need low light to create low-key portraits, and with that in mind, the kit lens can be a very useful lens. Using your lens at around 50mm will work nicely for your portrait, and you can use your camera body to expose at -2 or -3 exposure value. You’ll need to set your aperture and shutter speed to the appropriate settings to get this exposure value, depending on the environment you’re in. To make a low-key photo you’ll need a large difference in light from model to the background. This can be achieved through finding a place where a shard of sunlight comes through a gap in the roofing, perhaps at a market. You now need your model to be lit up by the sun, while the background will be underexposed, and therefore dark.

Low-Key Portraits - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

You can use any lens for low-key portraits, including the kit lens.

6 – Long Exposure Photography

Your kit lens will not restrict your ability to take long exposure photos. The limiting factor here will be a lack of a tripod, and perhaps a lack of the correct filter. That means you can take amazing long exposure photos with a kit lens, so long as you have the correct additional equipment.

  • Car light trails – Find the right location above a road with plenty of traffic, and you can take photos of light trails produced by cars. Close down the aperture, and you’ll also create a starburst effect with any street lights nearby. You’ll need exposure times of 5 seconds or more for this type of photo.
  • Moving water – Moving water can look attractive in your photo, and a kit lens can certainly capture this. Exposure times of around 1 second or more will give moving water a silky look when photographed.
  • Light painting – The merits of the kit lens for kinetic light painting has already been discussed. It’s no surprise you can also up your kit lens creativity with light painting of any type.
Long Exposures - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

Fireworks can be recorded using a kit lens, and it’s great for capturing the whole scene at wide focal lengths.

7 – Attaching a Filter

A great way to increase your kit lens creativity is to add a filter, and that’s not the digital kind. There are a good variety of filters you can add to your kit lens that will give you extra options as a photographer. These can be graduated sunset filters, that add warms tones to the sky. Alternatively, a strong ND filter will allow you to take long exposure photos during the day, using your kit lens and a tripod. This article will give you an idea of some of the available filters you can use. You’ll need to use the correct sized filter, with 52mm or 58mm being typical for a kit lens.

Adding Filters - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

Filters can be attached to your kit lens. This photo was taken with an infra-red filter attached to a kit lens.

8 – Get Wide

At 18mm your kit lens is wide enough to capture a good amount of the scene in a landscape photo. This means as you travel with this lens you can take some photos of amazing viewpoints. Combine this with a technique such as long exposure or kinetic light painting and you will get your kit lens creativity! Note that if you’re using a crop sensor APS-C camera 18mm is effectively 28.8mm on a full-frame camera.

9 – Portrait Work

At the other end of the scale with your kit lens is 55mm. Once again when using an APS-C camera this will effectively be 88mm if this was used on a full-frame camera. These focal lengths are ideal for portrait photography though. Any compression of the face won’t be too extreme at the effective focal length of 88mm. So focal lengths from around 30mm through to 55mm will give you some good compression ratios to work with for portrait photography.

Get Wide - Nine Ways to Boost Your Kit Lens Creativity

Whether your portraits are street photos, posed, or travel, the kit lens is going to give you nice results.

How Will You Get Your Kit Lens Creativity?

The drive for more creativity is always there with photography. There is a lot you can do using your kit lens if you choose to. The list above gives you some examples of how you might go about doing that. Have you tried any of these techniques with the kit lens? Are there any other ways you’ve taken interesting photos with this particular lens? Please share your thoughts, and photos in the comments section.

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One Light Set-Up For Food Photography

19 Nov

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

When it comes to food photography, the natural light look is highly sought after.

However, it’s difficult to create consistency with natural light because the sun is always moving.

Most pro food photographers use artificial light to really take control of their lighting.

Using artificial lighting doesn’t have to be complicated, though.

Unless you’re doing some types of advertising or food product photography, you can get away with using just one light.

One light is ideal for shooting food for blogs, restaurants, and the editorials you see in popular foodie magazines. You can easily mimic window light, with one set of shadows on your food.

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Types of Artificial Light

You can choose from several types of artificial light sources.

The most common approach is to use a strobe like a mono head, which is a self-contained flash unit.

If you’re shooting advertising or product, you need to get to high number F-stops like F/22 to achieve the sharpness required without getting lens diffraction that usually goes along with it.

For these types of shoots, you will need a lot of watt power and most likely you will need to rent powerful battery packs.

However, for editorial type shoots, all you need is a 500-watt strobe. You can even use a speedlight with the right modifier.

Some food photographers like to use a constant light, like an LED light panel, so they can see where the shadows are falling before they press the shutter.

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina kopcok-DPS

Before You Shoot

Before you shoot, you should think about what you want your final image to look like.

Do you want the light to look soft and airy, or are you looking for deep shadows and striking contrast?

Do you want your light to be soft or hard?

The more contrast you have between light and dark, the more dramatic your image will be.

Your subject will often dictate the style you choose. For example, ice cream has the connotation of summer and is usually brightly colored, thus soft light or a bright and bold look makes sense.

Whether you choose soft light or hard light, your light source should be diffused to give you a nice blur in the gradations where the light and dark meet.

One Light Set-Up For Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Types of Lighting Styles

Side Lighting

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Imagine the face of a clock.

If you picture your light placed at 9:00, this is side lighting.

It can also be placed at 3:00.

However, in the Western world, we read from left to right. Our eyes first gravitate to the brightest part of an image, so it makes sense for our light to be coming from our left-hand side.

This is not a hard-and-fast rule. Each side will affect how the light looks in your photograph, depending on your composition.

The next time you shoot, try taking a picture with your light positioned at 9:00, and then move your light to take a shot at 3:00. Notice the difference in your final result.

Side lighting is a good approach for a lot of food photography, as it works well for most set-ups.

Place a large softbox close to your table. The bigger your light source, the softer the light will be. Soft light is a desirable look in food photography.

Place a reflector or bounce card opposite to the light to bounce some of it back into your scene. Move it closer or farther away, depending on how much shadow you want. Even when shooting white or bright scenes, you still want some shadows to add dimension.

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Side lighting

Backlighting

http://www.sylights.com/lighting-diagrams/editor-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Backlighting is when you position your light behind your food, at 12:00.

This is a great choice for beverages and soups, as it adds a sheen and highlights texture and the liquid properties of food.

It can be very flattering to food, but it can also be challenging to work with because your image might be too bright and blown out at the back and too dark on the front. Or it can just look too washed out, which is what happens when you shoot with too much light.

You can also end up with too much reflection on the top of the food.

Backlighting also emphasizes drastic color contrasts that can be difficult to balance.

So be aware of these challenges when choosing to use backlighting.

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Backlighting emphasizes texture

 

Side Backlighting

http://www.sylights.com/lighting-diagrams/editor

This is a combination of the two previously mentioned lighting styles, when your light is placed at 10:00 or 11:00.

With this style, you get the best of best worlds; the surface shine of backlighting without the risk of overexposure at the back of the photo. You also don’t have to reflect as much light onto the front of the food because the light is coming from an angle.

The reflector is opposite your light source.

The key is to play around with the height of the light relative to your scene, depending on how you want your shadows to fall.

One Light Set Up Food Photography

Side Backlighting

Other Lighting Styles

At this point, it bears mentioning that there are a couple of lighting styles that don’t work for food photography.

Front lighting is often used in portraiture, but it looks terrible on food. It can cast unwanted shadows and your images will look flat and lack dimension.

Lighting from overhead also creates flat images.

Lighting Modifiers and Tools

The most commonly used modifier in food photography is the softbox. The larger, the better.

However, the most used modifier in my own arsenal is a dish reflector with a 20 or 30-degree honeycomb grid.

A honeycomb grid cuts off the light and narrows it, which creates stunning contrasts in food photography.

You also need a large diffuser when working with artificial light. If you’re using a strobe or a speedlight the explosion of light won’t fall off as quickly as it does with natural light, and will give you hard shadows if not diffused, which is usually not ideal.

Also, you’ll need something to bounce and absorb light.

You can buy a 5-in-1 reflector kit, which will have diffusion material as well as a silver reflector to brighten the food and a gold reflector to add warmth.

Alternatively, you can use black or white foam core. White will brighten your scene, while black will absorb the light. I use black in my dark and moody food photography to create deep shadows.

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

My Go-To Lighting Set-Up

I mentioned that I use a dish reflector with a honeycomb grid for my food photography.

You may be wondering what results you can get from shooting that way, but all of the images in this article were shots using this set-up.

The key to success in using this modifier is to have a large diffuser placed at the edge of your table and put the light one to two meters away, depending on how much light you need on your set.

This set-up will mimic window light beautifully because the diffuser actually becomes the light source, not the strobe. The bigger the diffuser the better, so as to keep unwanted light from spilling over the set. My diffuser is 150×200 cm/59x 79 inches!

One Light Set Up Food Photography-Darina Kopcok-DPS

 

In Conclusion

If you’re just starting to shoot with artificial light for food photography, focus on using side lighting until you feel more comfortable tackling backlighting.

With a bit of practice and some tweaks, you’ll finesse your set-ups to work best with your style of food photography.

Share with us in the comments below your food photography images and any other tips you may have.

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“I wish it weren’t a Republican versus Democrat thing”: Wildfire photographer Stuart Palley on climate change and California’s devastating blazes

18 Nov

Stuart Palley is a freelance photographer who specializes in covering wildfires in his home state of California. His six-year ‘Terra Flamma’ project includes images drawn from Stuart’s experience at 45 major fires, including some of the most devastating in California state history. When I spoke to Stuart he had just returned from the scene of the Woolsey fire.

Stuart spoke to me on the phone from his truck, on his way back from getting one of his rear doors fixed. The door was bent on its hinges after being caught by the 60mph winds that fed the Woolsey fire as it devastated Malibu and neighboring communities.

Despite spending much of his career in one of the most hazardous environments imaginable, the repair bill for the truck door is the first major misfortune to befall Stuart in his wildfire work. That and a broken pair of reading glasses. But it’s not just luck that’s kept him safe, as he explained.

The following interview has been edited for clarity and flow. Find more of Stuart’s work at his Instagram.


You’ve just come back from a fire, right?

Yes, I’ve just returned from an assignment to the Woolsey Fire, in Ventura and Los Angeles counties. I’ve been on assignment for a bunch of places but primarily I was there for the LA Times. I was shooting as a photojournalist but I was also adding work for my Terra Flamma project. So as well as the more reportage-style images I was also shooting long exposures at night.

Let’s talk about your ‘Terra Flamma’ project.

Terra Flamma is a project where I’ve been documenting wildfires in California, using long exposure tripod-mounted images. The goal of the project is to put the fires in the geographic context where they occur, which can be everywhere from the forests of the Sierra Nevada mountains to people’s backyards in Malibu, as we saw recently. So anywhere and everywhere that wildfires occur in California.

I want people to see the images and learn a little bit and educate themselves about the fires, and if they’re a homeowner maybe they’ll make themselves a bit more prepared. The other goal is to share the work that the firefighters do out on the fire line, so there’s an educational component there too.


Images from ‘Terra Flamma – Wildfires at Night’

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What’s your main camera gear right now for fire photography?

The Nikon D850 with the latest version of the 24-70mm F2.8 VR, and I use the D850 with the grip for better battery life. That’s what I’ll use for 90% of my fire work. Sometimes I’ll use the Sigma 14mm F1.8 Art, just because it’s so great for wide-angle low-light work. Also I’ve never been a fan of the 70-200mm F2.8 class of lenses, they’re so big and heavy and complex, so I recently replaced my F2.8 with Nikon’s 70-200mm F4. It’s almost half the weight and I’ve loved using it. This is the first fire I’ve used it on, and I haven’t missed having the extra stop of light at all. Even on the Z7 it’s very well-balanced.

You were shooting with the Nikon Z7 for the first time this season – how was it?

It was very easy for me to start using the Z7 initially because the control layout and the design is so similar to the D850 but when push came to shove, the autofocus just couldn’t hack it. I tried using it for the first few hours, but after about an hour and a half I had to ditch it for my D850. I was walking around at night with the 24-70mm F4 and the 35mm F1.8 and trying to shoot, and it was just not co-operating when it came to focus. I was just using regular center point, AF-S and it keep losing focus, missing focus and hunting.

Going back to the D850’s viewfinder after the Z7’s EVF, it felt like I was using a much more antiquated camera

I will say that it was really nice to have a lighter camera for that first couple of hours though. I may use it for my next daytime assignment just to check it out more. The Z7 for daytime use, for general reportage, it’s a totally fine substitute for the D850. And also, shooting with that 35mm F1.8, I got the speed of the F1.8 plus of course stabilization, so I was able to push that lens more than I could have if it was on a D850 because none of Nikon’s fast F-mount primes have stabilization. Also, going back to the D850’s viewfinder after the Z7’s EVF, it felt like I was using a much more antiquated camera.

Stuart has recently incorporated the new Nikon Z7 into his wildfire photography kit, alongside a D850 and brace of F-mount lenses.

Read more about Stuart’s experiences with the Nikon Z7

What’s the most important criteria for your gear?

The most important thing is that I need to change the main functions of the camera quickly and easily, and they’re all physically accessible so I don’t have to go through the menu. I went on a little road trip, camping with the Z7 and I kept it in Auto ISO and it was great. But I had frustrations with it at night. For me, having full manual control and reliable nighttime autofocus, those are the most important things. The Z7’s autofocus at night was just inferior to the D850’s when I was really pushing it. I’m usually shooting in pretty low light in the fires, and even with the 35mm F1.8, the Z7 would just be hunting, where the D850 was locking straight on. At night, in an action-filled, more photojournalism situation versus landscape or more everyday photography, I just couldn’t rely on the autofocus.

The D850 and 24-70mm were doing great, but the Z7 was just hunting for focus

When I say photojournalism kind of work I mean working in a face-paced environment where things are moving really quickly and I’m having to change settings constantly. Maybe I’m shooting people evacuating, or firefighters working, and then a few minutes later the camera is on a tripod to shoot some of the long exposure more fine art-type images. I found the Z7 harder to switch around between those shooting situations, but partly that might be on me – maybe I need to spend more time setting up the custom functions and modes.

Autofocus was the real kicker though. I walked into some situations where I was photographing some property that was burned, to send in – I was on assignment at that time – and the D850 and 24-70mm were doing great, but the Z7 was just hunting for focus.

How did you get started in fire photography?

Well, the first wildfire I ever photographed was when I was interning for the Orange County register. They have fire gear so I was able to borrow the proper safety gear right off the bat. But looking back, I didn’t know enough then about fire behavior to properly, safely cover it. If I were to do it all over again I would have gone with another photographer or reporter with more experience.

The second fire I went to, I made a couple of mistakes that I was lucky not to get hurt from

The second fire I ever went to, I made a couple of mistakes that I was very lucky not to get hurt from. At that time I had the safety gear, but I didn’t have the experience. And that’s the biggest thing – understanding the weather, and understanding how fire behaves. And if you’re not paying attention to that you can very easily get hurt.

Images from the Woolsey fire, 11/09/18

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You’re working in very hazardous environments, which I assume you wouldn’t recommend just anyone should show up and try to photograph…

My recommendation is that you shouldn’t just go out on a whim and photograph wildfires. It’s dangerous. You need to be doing it for a legitimate publication, something in the public interest. Any time I’m in a fire, I’m always sending images back. It’s important to me to do that. The reason we have media access to the fires in California is that the media serves a purpose, to inform the public.

Even if you have accreditation you have an obligation to be safe, you have an obligation to wear the safety gear and have training and knowledge about wildfires because if you don’t, you could end up becoming the story. And at the end of the day I don’t think that’s a responsible thing to do.

People don’t realize that the margins for error in fires that are driven by strong offshore winds are very low

At this most recent fire, because it was in Los Angeles, there were a lot of people there. And especially on the first two nights when things were going really crazy, they had no protective equipment, they were parking in the road… and in my professional opinion they were safety hazards to themselves and the people around them. And for me, that’s frustrating.

I see people that are really just kids, out there in shorts and T-shirts, and it’s incredibly dangerous. People don’t realize that the margins for error in fires that are driven by strong offshore winds are very low. If you’re in the wrong place at the wrong time, even if it’s just by a factor of a couple of seconds, that can be the difference between you going home safely or ending up in the burn unit.

Some of the thousands of dollars of equipment that Stuart has bought in order to operate around wildfires safely.

At the height of the Woolsey fire I was there being showered by embers, but I was wearing fire boots, a brush shirt, a brush jacket, then a helmet with a shroud that covered my face and neck, plus goggles and a passive respirator. I had to invest thousands of dollars in all of that safety equipment, and also invest a lot of time to understand fire behavior.

My recommendation, if you’re a photographer interested in taking pictures at wildfires is firstly, shoot for an organization, so there’s a reason and a purpose for you being there. Secondly, you might need to do a ride along with someone more experienced before you start doing it for yourself. With fires getting worse on the west coast, I’m all for there being more people out there telling this story. It’s important that we have a diversity of voices, but there’s a proper way of doing it.

Along with the reportage work, I’m also shooting images for my project. And that’s what I mean when I say that Terra Flamma combines the art with the documentary work.

These days, you must have developed relationships of trust with the firefighters – how does that affect what you’re able to do?

The fire world is very small, although actually at this most recent fire I only saw one firefighter I knew. But when I’m photographing in the forest, with the Forest Service, there are people who are familiar with my work and know who I am, and they’re able to relax a little bit because they know I know what I’m doing. They don’t need to keep an eye on me, so they can focus on their work, which allows me to get closer and focus on the moments a little more.

My first rule is be safe, don’t compromise the safety of first responders, and stay out of their way

Part of the professional responsibility of covering these fires is investing in your own equipment and safety training. You can’t just go in like John Wayne and just start shooting. My first rule is be safe, don’t compromise the safety of first responders, and stay out of their way. Once I feel like I’m covered there, it’s OK to start taking pictures.

How do you gauge that line, from safe to unsafe?

Well, there’s usually never a clear line. But for example if there’s a very narrow road in a fire zone with one way up and one way out, I won’t drive my truck up there. I’ll park and go on foot, or go to a different place. Because if I’m blocking an escape route for a fire engine, or compromising access for a fire crew, I don’t want to get in their way. The couple of seconds it would take for me to back up or do a u-turn, that could make the difference between getting out of the fire, and not.

This most recent fire was moving so quickly that in a lot of places they barely had time to evacuate people. There were a lot of civilians just staying and not evacuating their houses, and I was saying ‘Look, guys, you seriously have a chance of getting killed if you stay here’. Some of them left, and for me that was the line – as soon as the firefighters left, so did I. There were some incredible pictures to be made, but the situation wasn’t safe. About five minutes later that whole area literally exploded into flames.

This past week, and the last year have been incredibly dangerous for numerous reasons

Every situation, every fire, every day is different. You make a judgement call. There’s a fundamental way of being safe. I make sure I know what the weather is doing, I have escape routes worked out where I can go if things go bad. I’m taking pictures but I’m also keeping an eye out and looking around, and making sure a power line isn’t going to fall on me or something like that. That’s the base level of safety, and in each situation I assess it, and see where I can go and what I can do that will be safe, and won’t create a hazard for other people. It’s a lot of little learning experiences like that, which add up.

One of the reasons I didn’t cover the Camp Fire is there were so many downed power lines and trees falling that I personally didn’t feel it was safe to go up there and drive around in certain areas. It’s a very hazardous situation up there. This past week, and the last year have been incredibly dangerous for numerous reasons. I also wanted to focus on the Woolsey Fire in Los Angeles, since it’s my home area, and report on the story happening locally. There are photographers doing important and powerful work at the Camp Fire in their own backyard.


GoPro footage from the Woolsey fire

Have there been any occasions where looking back you felt like you pushed the line too far in terms of your own safety?

I think that in the beginning, especially the second fire I went to in 2013, the Powerhouse fire, I definitely did that. I got too far away from my car, I was about 1/4 mile away and the fire jumped the road between me and the car. I had to run down the road through the smoke, very close to the fire to get back to my car, hoping it hadn’t been burned up. I was wearing boots that didn’t fit me, so I tripped and twisted my ankle, then almost got run over by a fire truck. It was at that point that I thought ‘Alright, I need to get the training to learn how to not be a safety hazard’.

Friday morning [November 9th] I drove in at about 8 or 9am when the Woolsey fire started running into Malibu. I was up on a hill, very close to Broad Beach, which is ’billionaire’s beach’ in Malibu where all the wealthy and famous live. The fire was coming up the canyon very rapidly, and I assessed that I maybe had five minutes to photograph there.

Probably the closest calls I’ve had have actually been driving back after fires, when I’m really tired

One of the things I did on my way up was to look out for an escape route. I decided that the beach would be my escape route, and eventually the wind was pushing the fire all the way down the canyon, and in fact I did end up on the beach. The fire destroyed the neighborhood I’d been in five minutes previously. That was a situation where I knew this was a historic event, and I knew that I’d need to push to the limits of what was safe in order to tell the story. I stayed as long as the firefighters did, and when they left, I left.

Probably the closest calls I’ve had have actually been driving back after fires, when I’m really tired and almost falling asleep at the wheel and driving off the freeway. And driving in the smoky woods, late at night, if something happens nobody will find you until the next day. These days I stop and take naps at off-ramps if I feel the fatigue coming on.

How can you see beauty in something so destructive?

Fire is a powerful force, and I feel that fundamental irony every time I’m in the field at a fire making pictures. On one hand, you have this incredible force of nature, which is exacerbated by humans, which can be both beautiful, terrifying, and awe-inspiring all at once. But it can also devastate, destroy neighborhoods, take dozens of lives, cut down hopes, dreams, and memories of families in houses and wilderness areas. The dichotomy there isn’t lost on me and it weighs on my mind. Especially in California where the cost of owning a home is so high, losing your house can often mean financial ruin. It’s absolute tragedy and loss.

If the pictures engage people to educate themselves about wildfire […] then the project is attaining its goal.

But just because an image has tension in it, or there are extremely heavy subjects in an image or project, doesn’t mean we should run away from facing difficult and inconvenient truths. I’d rather face the subject of wildfires, climate change, and the ensuing fallout head on, and if there are some pictures as the result of it that engage people to educate themselves about wildfire and make their own decisions on a changing climate, then the project is attaining its goal.

Additionally, I am involved with a fire foundation [The Eric Marsh Foundation] that raises money for injured wild land firefighters and families of the fallen, and the wildfire community has become very close to my heart.

Stuart’s protective gear includes a helmet, goggles and face shroud.

What do you want people to take away from the Terra Flamma project? These aren’t just meant to be pretty pictures, right?

Right. I’m doing this because wildfires are a function of climate change, and right now California and the western United States are taking the brunt of it. It’s important to me to document that and tell that story.

The wildfires are getting larger, more destructive and killing more people in California. In 2017 we had the largest, most destructive and most deadly wildfires in California, and already in 2018, those fires have been eclipsed. The Camp fire is now the most deadly and destructive wildfire in California history, eclipsing the Thomas fire, which only happened a year ago, which was the largest wildfire in California history until the Ranch fire in 2018. So already 5 out of the 10 most serious wildfires in California history have been in the last four years, and we’ve been keeping record since the 1890s. There is a direct correlation between that, and manmade carbon dioxide emissions in the atmosphere.

Our weather patterns are changing. So normally at this time of year we get rain in California. But as the rainy season gets condensed, we get more extreme rain events. Instead of it raining in a 3-week period we might get all of our rain in 10 days, which causes flooding and allows the stored fuel to dry out more, which drives more aggressive fire behavior.

Additionally, in a warming climate we have more days per year that support large fire growth. We have hotter days in the summer that are drying up the vegetation more quickly, which makes them more susceptible to burning. That’s measured using something called the Burn Index. They measured the area around the Camp Fire in Northern California and the Burn Index was 241. It was one of the highest burn indexes ever recorded.

This isn’t just about poor forest management then?

Well, if we’re going to talk about our President – and I think it’s generous calling him that – he has no idea what he’s talking about. Most of the forests in California are managed by the federal government. So when he’s talking about cutting off money to the state of California, it doesn’t even make sense, fundamentally.

Forest management is only part of the issue. Like most things, the answer is actually very complex. California includes a lot of very different climates, and every one needs to be managed differently. The way we manage forests by suppressing fires has in many cases increased the fuel load in forests. But the other thing is that we’re building houses on the Wildland Urban Interface, where the forest and scrub meets civilization. Malibu is a prime example of homes that are built on hillsides, and in areas that are covered in brush.

We’ve built millions of areas in these interfaces and in transition zones. What that means is that the statistical likelihood of people’s houses being affected and of people being hurt in fires goes up. The fire triangle is heat, oxygen and fuel. So with climate change, you get drier fuels, less rain and hotter days, which are all the conditions needed to create fire growth.

Climate change has become very politicized in the US, and I wish it weren’t a Republican versus Democrat thing

We need to have a conversation about where and how be build. Some areas are prone to regular intervals of wildfire, and we are not invincible against nature. The same fires happen in the same places, and as long as homes are rebuilt in certain areas, there will be a risk of destruction down the line. History repeats itself.

Generally speaking, what we’re seeing is an acute effect of climate change. Some of the firefighters I speak to who have been climate change skeptics, and really quite conservative have said to me, ‘Stuart, I don’t know what’s going on, but things are different. I haven’t seen fires like this.’ They’ve said ‘For the longest time I thought climate change was B.S. but I can’t deny what I’m seeing in front of my eyes’. Climate change has become very politicized in the US, and I wish it weren’t a Republican versus Democrat thing. I view it as a fundamental issue about the survival of people on this planet.

The data is there. We see it happening, but unfortunately the political leadership, even when they acknowledge it, aren’t acknowledging the reasons why it’s happening. And it’s getting to the point where I’ve gone from thinking that I want to document what’s going on to being frankly terrified that after only six years working on this project I’ve seen the changes starting to accelerate.


2018 has been a record-breaking year for wildfires in the western United States. At the time of writing, the Woolsey Fire has burned almost 100,000 acres with the confirmed loss of 3 lives. The Camp Fire has burned 138,000 acres and claimed more than 70 lives, with hundreds more people unaccounted for. To help the victims of this months’ California wildfires, click here. If you’re interested in fire safety training or protecting your home, the NFPA is a good resource.

If you want to donate to the Eric Marsh Foundation you can do so here. If you’d like to support Stuart’s Terra Flamma project, click here.

Be safe, and don’t put yourself or others at risk.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Prairie Wind 16K HDR video was created using two Canon EOS 5DS cameras

18 Nov

Cinematographer Martin Lisius has detailed the creation of a 16K 15,985 x 5792 pixels HDR video titled “Prairie Wind.” The video was published on Vimeo, though the online version of the video is limited to 8K. According to Lisius, the project involved two Canon EOS 5DS cameras with Sigma 35mm F1.4 Art lenses and a custom-built calibrated mount.

“Prairie Wind” showcases weather over America’s Great Plains, according Lisius, who explains in the video description, “I’m fortunate to have grown up on the Great Plains of America where I can touch the sky often. A storm there can transform you … Finding new ways to convey this experience to others is important to me.”

The project involved four months of shooting footage across six Great Plains states and another three months of processing. Lisius estimates “Prairie Wind” contains around 6,100 16K images that were stitched using an 8-core Mac Pro workstation. “Making this short film taught me Jedi-like patience,” Lisius said.

Full details on the creation process can be found in the video’s description on Vimeo. Samples of the full 16K resolution are available to download for free through file-sharing site WeTransfer and licensing is available through Storm Stock.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best

18 Nov

Henri Cartier-Bresson said that “Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst.” Every successful creative spends boundless time, thought, and concentrated effort pursuing their passion. You can accelerate your photography education by learning from accomplished artists. One way to stimulate your photography is by reading quotes from not only photographers but creative people who express themselves in any medium.

I find stimulus from musicians, painter, authors, sculptors, and others. By reading the words of outstanding visionary artists, you can draw from the depth of their experience.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Thinking © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Whether you are coming to grips with camera settings when you are just starting out or seeking deeper motivation, if you’re already confident with your camera, you will do well to learn from those with more experience than yourself or your peers.

Be Part of an Ongoing Conversation

“I’m in the middle of a long conversation with my audience, it’ll be a lifelong journey for both of us by the time we’re done.” Bruce Springsteen (rock musician, author)

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Portrait © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Photography is a communicative tool. Your style choice may be fine art or street photography. You may be interested in creating documentary photographs. Whatever your choice of style and subject, approach it as an ongoing conversation. Not just talking, but also listening.

Your best photographs express your feelings. They convey something of who you are. The best conversations are two-sided. Participate with your audience and listen to their feedback.

If you’ve never seen Springsteen perform live, find some of his concert clips on Youtube. He is a master in audience participation. He draws energy from his audience and is driven to return that energy in his performances.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Conversation © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

It’s easier for rock stars to do this than photographers. Find people to give you feedback. Become part of other photographers creative conversations by sharing your feelings about their photography. You will grow together.

Work With the Raw Materials

“What makes photography a strange invention is that its primary raw materials are light and time.” John Berger (art critic, novelist, painter and poet)

Having a good grasp of the basics for anything you want to learn is the start of your journey towards success. Photography is all about light and time. Understanding the role that these two raw materials play in photography will make your journey more exciting and absorbing.

Throughout history, some of the greatest minds have devoted themselves to the understanding of time and light. As a photographer, you need to constantly consider these two raw materials of your craft. Not in such a deep way as to invent time travel, but at least in how they relate to the story you are telling with your photographs.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Light and Time © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

“Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. However, above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.” George Eastman (founder of Kodak)

Practice Always

“Photography is the simplest thing in the world, but it is incredibly complicated to make it work.” Martin Parr (photographer)

Commitment over time makes a huge impact on your achievements. Photography is actually quite simple, but to make a truly great photograph in our lifetime will probably elude most of us. This should not stop you putting in the effort because there is always an element of luck. Unless you are practiced and prepared, when luck happens, you may miss it.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Cart Racer © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Whatever you like to photograph, work on it. Not once a month, or even once a week. Make a point of taking at least one photo a day and learning, or improving one technique. Focus on a few topics you love and make projects of them. You will see your progress more readily if you do.

On Portraiture

Be more than a person with a camera when you are making portraits. Engage in dialogue. This way your subject becomes an integral part of your photography conversation, and not just a ‘sitter’ for a head shot.

“Who sees the human face correctly: The photographer, the mirror, or the painter?” Pablo Picasso (painter, sculptor, printmaker, ceramicist, stage designer, poet, and playwright)

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Portraiture © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

You could argue that some of the faces Picasso painted are barely recognizable as people. He expressed himself like no other person before him. Study him and read his quotes. You can learn from a master who was one of the most influential creatives in history.

Portraiture is probably the most common photography subject (even if you exclude selfies.) There is nothing complicated about choosing to photograph a person, but the complexities in making an outstanding portrait are many.

“A portrait is not made in the camera but on either side of it.” Edward Steichen (photographer, painter, and art gallery and museum curator)

On Street Photography

“It’s easy to penetrate someone’s privacy. People are glad you’re there to see them, cos no one’s paying attention.” Bruce Davidson (photographer)

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Street Photography © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Our perceptions of street photography are as varied as the number of photographers who engage in it. Bringing yourself to step out into the world, record it as you see it, and then share the photographic conversations you have, is challenging for many people.

Jumping into the shoes of experience will ease this pain. Guys like Bruce Davidson have been approaching strangers ‘cold’ for decades. Use the voice of this experience to guide you and motivate you.

Street photography is popular. There are a lot of new photographers producing some wonderful work. These pictures can do a certain amount to inspire, but there is no depth of experience to really lean on.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Street Portrait © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

On Documentary Photography

“I’m not an artist. An artist makes an object. Me, it’s not an object, I work in history, I’m a storyteller.” Sebastiao Salgado (photographer)

Our photographs can change the world. Photographs can change us. As a young guy with a camera, seeing photos and reading articles with quotes from the greats like Henri Cartier-Bresson, Sebastiao Salgado, Dorothea Lange, and other accomplished documentary photographers inspired me. These are the things that drove me.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Documentary Photography © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Before the internet, we shared photos differently, being mostly restricted to printed pictures. Inspiration happened in the pages of books and magazines and sometimes on art gallery walls. Carefully curated bodies of work published in Time, Life, and National Geographic, accompanied by well-written, carefully edited articles, provided a richness difficult to find on Instagram or other social media platforms.

If you feel strongly about something, photograph it. Make it an ongoing project. Let it span months or even years. But do not rely on only yourself. Look to those who have gone before you. Listen to their music, read their books, and study their photographs. Bring them into your creative conversation so that you stimulate your photography.

“Photography takes an instant of our time, altering life by holding it still.” Dorothea Lange (photographer)

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