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Archive for June, 2018

Canon launches updated EF 70-200mm F4L IS II

07 Jun

Canon has announced a new version of its popular 70-200mm F4L telezoom. The new Canon EF 70-200mm F4L IS II USM features numerous improvements over its predecessor, including five stops of stabilization – up from three in the older lens. The updated 70-200mm F4’s stabilization system is quieter, and now features three modes, designed specifically for shooting still and moving subjects.

Weighing 780g, the new 70-200mm F4L is 40g heavier than its predecessor. Optical construction comprises 20 elements in 15 groups, and the inclusion of Canon’s Super Spectra Coating should help minimize ghosts and flare. Meanwhile, front and rear elements gain fluorine coating, for ease of cleaning.

The Canon EF 70-200mm F4L IS II USM will be available later this month for $ 1299.

Press Release

CANON UPDATES LINEUP OF EF L-SERIES TELEPHOTO ZOOM LENSES WITH THE INTRODUCTION OF EF 70-200MM F/4L IS II USM AND EF 70-200MM F/2.8L IS III USM

Next Generation of EF 70-200mm Lenses Features a Variety of Updates Including Enhanced Optical Image Stabilization in the f/4 and the Inclusion of Air Sphere Coating in the f/2.8

MELVILLE, N.Y., June 7, 2018 – Canon U.S.A. Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, today introduced two new telephoto zoom lenses, the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS II USM and Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM. The new lenses serve advanced amateur and professional photographers in a variety of applications and solutions including wildlife, landscapes, portrait and sports photography. Canon EF 70-200mm focal-length lenses are a popular option for photographers in need of a long zoom range that maintains a relatively compact design. In addition, these updated lenses inherit the same overall build-quality and ruggedness photographers have come to expect from the Canon EF L-series line of lenses.

“At the core of image capturing, Canon believes the lens is just as important as the camera. A seamless relationship between the two allows photographers to produce emotion-evoking and timeless images,” said Kazuto Ogawa, president and chief operating officer, Canon U.S.A., Inc. “Canon is excited to offer photographers two distinct options in the 70-200mm focal-length, continuing to further expand our optics heritage.”

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS II USM

The new Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS II USM features numerous updates over its predecessor, making it an ideal lens for advanced amateur photographers using Canon DSLR cameras such as the EOS 6D Mark II or EOS 80D. Most notably, Optical Image Stabilization is upgraded from three stops to five shutter speed stops of correction over the original f/4 lens. The improved IS allows photographers to more easily capture crisp, in-focus images without the use of a tripod. The new lens also features three IS modes, each uniquely designed and suitable for a variety of shooting situations, such as the capture of still subjects, panning or fast moving objects2. Furthermore, the IS operational noise has been reduced, which proves ideal for photographers shooting in a concert hall or on-stage shooting at the theatre.

Additional noteworthy features of the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS II USM include:

  • One fluorite lens and two UD lenses helps to provide high-image quality
  • Minimum focusing distance shortened from 1.2m to 1m (3.9ft to 3.3ft)
  • Super Spectra Coating technology and optimized lens element placement helps minimize ghosting and flaring
  • Circular nine blade aperture producing a beautiful bokeh quality, ideal for portrait shooting
  • Lens features 20 lens elements in 15 groups
  • Fluorine coating on front and rear elements helps to reduce smears and fingerprints
  • Inner focusing system with Ring Ultrasonic Motor

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM

The new Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM is an ideal lens for professional photographers who shoot with the Canon 1D and 5D series of DSLR cameras. The inclusion of Air Sphere Coating (ASC) technology helps to reduce flaring and ghosting, and suppresses the reflection of light.

Additional noteworthy features of the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM include:

  • Optical Image Stabilizer up to 3.5 shutter speed stops of correction
  • Fluorine coating on front and rear elements helps to reduce smears and fingerprints
  • Inner focusing system with Ring Ultrasonic Motor
  • One fluorite lens and five UD lenses helps to provide high-image quality
  • Minimum focusing distance of 1.2m (3.9ft)
  • Lens features 23 elements in 19 groups
  • Circular eight blade aperture

The Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS II is scheduled to begin shipping in late June 2018 with an estimated retail price of $ 1,299.00. The Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III is scheduled to begin shipping in August 2018 for an estimated retail price of $ 2,099.00

. For additional information regarding the lenses improved performance over predecessors please visit, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFTBw7-8gdk&feature=youtu.be.

Canon EF 70-200mm F4L IS II specifications

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DxO updates Nik Collection, releases PhotoLab 1.2 with U Point local adjustments

07 Jun
DxO Photolab 1.2 includes improved local adjustments.

DxO Labs – which split from DxO Mark in January – announced bankruptcy a few months back, but with a silver-lining: its flagship desktop software, Photolab, would receive a free update by summer. The company also announced that the Nik Software Collection – purchased from Google in late 2017 – would receive its first update since 2017.

As of today, both promises have been fulfilled, in a welcome indication that DxO Labs seems committed to its desktop editing business.

Nik Collection 2018

DxO engineers spent about six months working on code improvements to the Nik Collection, mostly with the aim of fixing bugs to ensure operational stability on the latest 64-bit Macs and PCs. There are no new features, but all seven plugins should also now work properly with the latest versions of Adobe Photoshop and Elements.

This is the first update to the collection since 2017, but it will come at a cost: until July 1st you can download the collection for $ 49.99 / £39.99 / €49.99. But after July 1st it will cost $ 69 / £59 / €69. There’s no word yet from DxO on how much future updates will cost, but we’re told that the company plans on releasing a new version yearly and it seems likely that those who download version 2018 will get a discount on future versions.

Download Nik Collection 2018 here.

Photolab 1.2

The latest version of Photolab, which is free for current users, incorporates the Nik Collection’s U Point technology, adding a much-loved set of local adjustments to the popular editing software. This update also adds hue and selective tone local adjustments, as well as support for recent cameras.

Download Photolab 1.2 here.

RIP DxO ONE Camera

This final bit of news should come as no surprise, but the DxO ONE camera is officially discontinued. The camera will continue to be sold by some retailers in the USA and France as long as they have inventory, so if you’ve been sitting on the fence about buying one, you’d better hurry.

Press Release:

With the Nik Collection 2018 by DxO and DxO PhotoLab 1.2, DxO continues to develop innovative solutions for photographers and creative professionals

The first update of the plugin suite that DxO acquired in late 2017, the Nik Collection 2018 by DxO offers full compatibility with the latest Mac and PC OSs and Adobe CC products, while DxO PhotoLab 1.2 enhances its local setup tools that incorporate exclusive U Point technology.

PARIS – June 6, 2018 – DxO, one of the world’s most innovative consumer imaging companies, today announced the immediate availability of the Nik Collection 2018 by DxO, an updated suite of Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop plugins for photographers and creative professionals. Eagerly awaited by the user community, this “by DxO” update marks the return to the market of the Nik Collection with the first stable version and with customer support. Also available today, DxO PhotoLab 1.2, an update of DxO’s acclaimed RAW and JPEG image processing software, adds new local correction features and adds support for seven additional cameras.

Nik Collection 2018 by DxO: Better user experience and stability

Since the acquisition of the Nik Collection from Google in late 2017, the DxO development team has spent several months analyzing and optimizing the code of the seven plugins that make up the software suite to make them stable and operational. “The process was long and complex,” explained Bruno Sayakhom, Product Owner at DxO. “It was necessary to recover and recompile source code that had not been maintained for a long time in order to make it compatible with the latest versions of Adobe products and the latest Apple OS updates. This is a first step that allows us to start afresh.”

The Nik Collection 2018 by DxO is now fully functional and compatible with all 64-bit Windows and Mac platforms, as well as with Adobe Lightroom Classic CC, Photoshop CC 2018, and Photoshop Elements 2017/2018. In addition, DxO now provides support in four languages on its website (http://nikcollection.dxo.com/), which will soon include exclusive tutorials. The software suite update, including the seven plugins, is now available in 13 languages, and includes a free 30-day trial period.

“We are proud to relaunch the Nik Collection, which users have been waiting for,” said Jean-Marc Alexia, DxO’s VP of Product Strategy and Marketing. “We have put all of our know-how into offering photographers and creative artists the best possible user experience. This is just the first step: using Uservoice-type surveys, we will be reaching out to the user community, from whom we greatly desire to gather feedback about their experiences and gain insight into their expectations.”

Designed for expert photographers and graphic designers, the Nik Collection includes seven powerful plugins for Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop, and Photoshop Elements that offer a full range of creative effects and filters:

  • Analog Efex Pro applies analog film, camera and lens simulations to digital photos.
  • Color Efex Pro includes a set of filters for color correction, touch-up, and creative effects.
  • Dfine reduces the noise of digital images by analyzing the specificities of each device.
  • HDR Efex Pro processes images in HDR.
  • Sharpener Pro increases the accuracy and enhances the detail of digital images.
  • Silver Efex Pro is a black and white image conversion solution inspired by darkroom techniques.
  • Viveza locally adjusts the color and tone of specific areas of the image.

Thanks to exclusive U Point technology, the Nik Collection plugins allow you to apply local settings to specific areas in a fluid and precise way.

The Nik Collection 2018 by DxO is available for download on the DxO website (http://shop.dxo.com/us/photo-software/dxo-nikcollection) for $ 49.99 / £39.99 / €49.99 instead of $ 69 / £59 / €69 until July 1st, 2018.

DxO PhotoLab 1.2 improves its local adjustment tools that integrate U Point technology

Recently awarded the 2018 TIPA Award for Best Image Processing Software, DxO PhotoLab (formerly DxO OpticsPro) offers a complete RAW and JPEG processing solution based on optical corrections from mathematically established laboratory models, as well as such exclusive features as PRIME noise reduction technology and DxO Smart Lighting intelligent exposure optimization.

DxO has integrated Nik Software’s U Point technology, acquired from Google in late 2017, into DxO PhotoLab. This exclusive technology allows photographers to apply local settings in a non-destructive RAW stream to specific areas in an image.

With version 1.2 of DxO PhotoLab, DxO continues to enhance its software by adding the Hue (HSL) and Selective Tone settings, to unblock locally dark areas or recover overexposed areas. The tool’s equalizer system has been redesigned accordingly, and local settings are now grouped by categories: Light, Color, and Detail. Each category can be shown or hidden with a single click, for an efficient workflow.

In response to user requests, we have added a new keyboard shortcut that displays the U Point mask in grayscale and shows the area that will be affected by the correction.

Finally, DxO PhotoLab 1.2 adds support for images from the Sony A7 III; the Panasonic Lumix DMC-G9, TZ90, and GF9; the Canon EOS 2000D; and the Apple iPhone 8 Plus and iPhone X. Thanks to the quality of DxO PhotoLab’s RAW conversion, which is based on prior calibration of each sensor in the laboratory, images taken with these cameras and smartphones will automatically be corrected for optical defects.

The ESSENTIAL and ELITE editions of DxO PhotoLab (PC and Mac) are available for download on the DxO website (http://shop.dxo.com/), and from retailers at $ 129 / £99 / €129 and $ 199 / £159 / €199, respectively (recommended retail prices).

Photographers who own a version of DxO OpticsPro can acquire an upgrade to DxO PhotoLab by logging into their customer account at www.dxo.com. A fully-functional trial version of DxO PhotoLab, valid for one month, is available on the DxO website: https://www.dxo.com/us/photography/download.

About DxO

For over 10 years, DxO has been developing some of the world’s most advanced image processing technologies, which have already enabled more than 400 million devices to capture images of unparalleled quality. DxO develops DxO PhotoLab (formerly DxO OpticsPro), as well as other image processing software for Mac and PC, which have been acclaimed by the world’s leading photographers.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Hot Wheels new ‘Zoom In’ car is a GoPro mount with wheels

07 Jun

As a kid, did you ever wish you could capture what it would be like to have a first-person perspective inside a Hot Wheels car as it raced around the tracks you’d built? If so, be prepared to relive the glory days.

Hot Wheels manufacturer Mattel has partnered with GoPro to launch a special edition vehicle designed specifically to carry a GoPro Hero5 Session onboard—the ‘Zoom In’.

This little vehicle, which is part of Hot Wheels’ ‘Experimotors’ lineup, is effectively the bottom half of a standard Hot Wheels car with a square cutout in the middle and a latch to help hold the GoPro in place. It features GoPro’s signature black and blue branding for colors, with a splash of red on the wheels.

YouTuber Izzy’s Toy Time has already tested out the ‘Zoom In’ with a Hero5 Session and shared the results:

The best part is, the ‘Zoom In’ costs no more than a standard Hot Wheels car, meaning you can probably pick one up for a dollar or so at your nearest supermarket or toy store. Of course, you’ll need a GoPro Hero5 Session camera as well, which is retailing for about $ 120 at the moment. But if you have one on hand, it’s well worth it to wrangle up a few quarters and take this thing for a spin around the track.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony Cyber-shot RX100 VI: Video overview

07 Jun

The Sony Cyber-shot RX100 VI, is a 1″-type compact camera with a 20.1-megapixel Exmor RS stacked CMOS sensor and a 24-200mm equivalent F2.8-4.5 zoom lens. We’ve been shooting with one since it was announced yesterday, and have prepared a brief overview video from the launch event in New York.

Learn more about the Sony Cyber-shot RX100 VI

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

07 Jun

Having a brick and mortar studio when you are a photographer is such a huge and daunting step. There are so many overhead costs to consider such as rent, electricity, insurance and various other bills. It’s a worry to cover all these before you pay staff and yourself and still make enough profit to make a living. This thought can make one feel that having a studio is an impossible dream or is too of a big a step to take. But you can always start somewhere, so let’s look at some tips for how to setup a home studio.

portrait of 2 girls - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

How to set up a home studio

If you have a spare room in your home or a basement, that is a good place to consider as a home studio. You may be surprised at just how much space is needed to start a portrait studio. Not that much at all! In this article, I will show you how I have set up my little home studio which I have recently revamped to make into a dedicated portrait studio.

I live in London in a narrow Victorian house. These houses have a typical 2-up 2-down rectangular layout, short side across and long side from front to back, with a narrow corridor that runs on one side of the house all the way to the back. My house has two reception rooms (living rooms) and a dining room and kitchen at the back. I decided to make the first reception room (the front room of the house) into my studio. It has a bay window at the front which juts out of the house and provides nice ample natural light.

At first, I set up my backdrop on the opposite side of the window so it was facing the window directly. The reason for this was so that I could get a much wider area for shooting. However, this is not great for dramatic lighting with natural light flooding from the window, with the camera right in between the backdrop and the window. This lends itself to flat lighting instead which isn’t what I wanted for my studio.

In order to achieve a more versatile directional lighting and avoid flat lighting from the window, I use strobes at 45-degree angles to the backdrop to get the lighting setup that I like.

Recently, I have moved things around so that I can use dramatic natural light if I want without the need for strobes, although I still have the flexibility to add strobes and artificial light if needed. This is how I’ve done it.

#1 Make sure your backdrop is at 90-degrees to the window

lighting diagram 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

This angle gives you a lighting that is more dramatic as it is only coming from one side. If you position your subject so that the far side of the face is unlit, you could achieve lighting similar to the Rembrandt style or low-key portraits.

#2 It is ideal to have an L-shaped corner connecting your window light to your backdrop or wall

lighting diagram corner - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Having this little dark, unlit corner between your backdrop and the window gives you a 45-degree angle lighting setup which is one of my favorite set-ups. The corner minimizes the light for you to be able to create a moodier image with only the front left of the face illuminated rather than full light flooding from the side.

In terms of artificial light, this is similar to controlling the amount of light hitting your subject either by the use of grids, a strip light or a snoot. You don’t want your subject awash with light as that would make for a rather flat lighting.

My personal preference is for having both light and shadows in my images so I can sculpt my subjects using directional light. If you don’t have such a corner, you can use a V-flat (two black pieces of mountboard taped together to form a V) positioned in the corner as shown in the diagram above.

#3 Paint your wall dark or use a dark backdrop

portrait of a happy girl on a dark background - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

You will be astonished at the difference a dark backdrop makes! It brings focus to the subject far more than a light backdrop can. It also lends itself to more artistic photos.

#4 Diffuse your window light

portrait of a girl in black - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Window light, albeit coming from an angle, can still be a bit harsh. You can further soften this light by diffusing it with some white sheer curtains or voile or any fabric that can diffuse the light. The bottom half of my windows are frosted which means they are already perfectly diffused. I cover the top half with pieces of diffusion fabric to cut out the light.

#5 Use a reflector or light opposite the window

lighting diagram with reflector - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Much like in a painted portrait, reflected light is a pleasing detail found at the edge of the unlit side of the face. A silver reflector can achieve this very well with a stronger reflective light result as compared to a white reflector. I find that the gold reflectors can make the skin too warm so I stick with the silver and warm up the overall image in post-production.

The reflector does have to be positioned really close to the subject to make it more effective. If you don’t have an assistant who can hold it in place for you, get a free-standing reflector arm that you clip the reflector into thus making it easy for you to position it as needed.

two different portraits of girls - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

dps-portrait-home-studio-tips_0000

Using strobes

If you want to use or add artificial light such as strobes or continuous lighting, consider a portable studio kit that you can fold and hide away when not in use. Here you can find suggestions of equipment to use for your portable studio kit.

There are many possibilities and things that you can do with this type of setup. Even with just one flash (like this tutorial), you can create dramatic home studio lighting. Another fun thing you can do with flash is creating double exposures.

These images below were taken in exactly the same spot as those above. But this time a gridded softbox was placed on the right as the main light instead of using the natural light coming from the window on the left.

dps-portrait-home-studio-tips_0000

I hope you found this article helpful. Please share images taken in your home studio, and if you have one or more tips on how to create portraits in a small studio space please share those too.

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How to Capture and Sculpt the Color of Light

07 Jun

The Basic Mechanics of Capturing Light

When the light of a scene enters the camera lens, it is dispersed over the surface of the camera’s image sensor, a postage-size electrical circuit containing millions of individual light receptors. Each receptor measures the strength of the light striking it in a metric called “lumens.” Each receptor on this sensor records its light value as a color pixel.

Color of Light Camera Mechanics

The camera’s image processor reads the color and intensity of the light striking each photoreceptor and maps each image from those initial values, producing a reasonable facsimile of the original scene. When this bitmap of pixels is viewed from a distance, the eye perceives the composite as a digital image.

Two important light issues must be addressed when capturing a photograph: light dynamic range (exposure) and color balance (temperature).

Light (Dynamic) Range

The full range of light that exists on a sunny day is virtually impossible to capture with your digital camera. Light range is defined as the dynamic difference between direct sunlight and absolute darkness.

Even though the image sensors in today’s digital cameras continue to improve, corralling all of nature’s dynamic range of light remains a futile challenge.

Color of Light Range

This statement is easier to understand when you consider the fact that camera sensors register far less light than the human eye, and not even the eye cannot tolerate unfiltered exposure to the sun. Any more than a couple of seconds of direct sunlight will absolutely damage several different parts of the human eye.

Fortunately, your body won’t allow you to stare directly into the sun for any longer. The light emitted from the sun is the strongest, most brilliant, and purest form of light in the universe. Luckily, very few scenes you will want to capture with a camera will involve shooting directly into the sun.

Camera settings

Most cameras have an automatic program mode that adjusts the three settings in the camera that affect exposure: f-stop, shutter speed, and ISO. The A/Av (Aperture Priority) mode allows you to set the size of the lens opening (f-stop) while the camera automatically sets the shutter speed. The S/Tv (Shutter Priority) mode lets you set the duration of the shutter opening (shutter speed) while the camera automatically adjusts the size of the lens opening.

Your camera’s ISO (International Standards Organization) setting adjusts the light sensitivity of the camera’s image sensor, allowing you to capture scenes in dim or bright light.

Color of Light A S ISO

The Histogram

Your camera provides a small graph, called a histogram, that roughly indicates how well the camera is set to capture the scene. This graph displays the range of light coming through the lens and approximates the current light distribution that will be captured under the current settings. By adjusting the three settings mentioned above, you can shift and somewhat distribute this range of light so as to best record the full range of light.

My best advice about using the histogram in your camera is to adjust the big three controls (aperture, shutter speed, and ISO) to center the graph on the scale. While this won’t guarantee the most dynamic use of the tonal aspect, it will give you the latitude to adjust that tonal information in post-processing.

But remember, the histogram reads light range but doesn’t address the issue of color balance at all. Which brings us to the next point.

Color Balance

Setting your camera to capture the correct color of light is not as simple and straightforward as it might seem. It is certainly not as automatic as the Auto White Balance setting might suppose. You should understand what your camera means by AWB before you bet your pictures on it. I’ll explain this in some detail below.

Even if you are shooting in RAW mode, it’s a good idea to evaluate the light temperature of the scene and set your camera accordingly. RAW processing will allow you to change the color balance in post-production, but good estimating will certainly shorten the processing time.

Color of Light WB

Select the appropriate color (White Balance) in your camera’s settings.

Color of Light

Every scene’s color cast is influenced by the temperature of the light illuminating that scene. When the scene is captured outside, the sun’s position in the sky and the influence of cloud cover alters the colors of the light. Your camera offers two ways to compensate for the differences in color temperature (White Balance).

Auto White Balance

The Auto White Balance (AWB) sensor in your camera will seek any prominent white or neutral subject in the scene and will shift the entire color balance of the scene in an effort to neutralize the tint of that element. The assumption when using the AWB setting is that you (1) desire the current lighting condition to appear perfectly neutral in color, and (2) are certain that recognizable and visible elements in the scene are truly neutral in color.

Color of Light Presets

This series of shots were made under cloudy skies while on my lanai (porch). The preset White Balance settings used were: top left: Shade; top right: Cloudy; bottom left: AWB; and bottom right: AWB with flash fill.

Any cloud cover interfering with the sunlight will have a slight influence on the neutrality of 6500° (natural sunlight) lighting. Once again, be aware that AWB takes that slight shift in color out of the equation. Most of the time, this is a good idea. But if early morning or late afternoon (golden hour) lighting is to be recorded accurately, that AWB setting will try to neutralize those warm colors and you will, therefore, lose the mood.

Color of Light AWB

Top: the lack of an absolutely neutral color in this dominantly warm-toned outdoor scene fooled the camera’s AWB setting. So the khaki colored seat cover and the rattan chest were neutralized in the top photo. Bottom: setting the camera’s white balance to Cloudy correctly recorded the scene.

Preset Color Balance Options

Your camera offers several presets to offset any known color casts caused by specific lighting situations.

Daylight sets the camera to record scenes under typical midday outdoor lighting. For outdoor photo situations under normal weather conditions, Daylight is a safe bet. The Daylight setting’s color temperature is balanced for sunny days and photos that are taken in direct sunlight. Daylight is the most neutral of the three outdoor settings and provides rich, natural-looking colors on sunny and even partly-cloudy days.

Color of Light Daylight

The camera’s Daylight setting is ideal for bright sunny days. I love to shoot nature shots in the strong sunlight of mornings, particularly between the hours of 8 and 10 AM.

Shade shifts the colors toward orange to compensate for the bluish interference of nominal clouds. When the weather conditions are normal (sunny) but your subject is located in the shade, the scene’s color temperature actually changes slightly. If the camera’s white balance setting is Daylight, and the people are in the shade their skin tones will lack the sun’s warmth because the sun’s rays are not hitting the subject directly.

Color of Light Shade

Even though there was plenty of sun outside, the flowers were located entirely in the shade. So the white balance was set to Shade to retain the warm greens of the leaves in this shot.

Cloudy offers a yet stronger orange shift to compensate for completely overcast (stormy) skies. When the weather conditions are overcast and clouds block the direct sunlight, the bluish color of the clouds actually removes the warmth of the sun.

On the color wheel, blue is directly opposite yellow. When these two colors influence each other, they dull each color’s intensity. When the blue-gray clouds block the sun they diminish the sun’s (yellow) warmth. For this reason, the Cloudy White Balance setting introduces more color warmth into the scene.

Color of Light Cloudy

Quite obviously this picture was taken under stormy conditions. If the camera’s white balance wasn’t set to Cloudy (or Overcast), the little boy’s skin would appear a lifeless gray.

Flash provides a very similar color temperature lighting as Daylight and is intended to prepare the image sensor for artificial daylight or “Speedlight” type flash devices.

Color of Light Flash

The camera’s automatic use of the flash in the “fill” function provided just enough light to balance the sunlight coming through the side window. Careful placement of the subject allowed this simple lighting to deliver a professional look.

Tungsten shifts the colors toward the blue end of the color range to compensate for the warmer shift of incandescent lights.

Fluorescent attempts to compensate for the greenish cast of gas-charged fluorescent lights.

All of these presets attempt to correct non-neutral lighting conditions.

Color of Light Tungsten

The even warmth of tungsten lighting is best captured with your camera’s Tungsten WB setting. While Auto WB does an acceptable job of interpreting tungsten amidst other types of lighting, when table lamps are in the picture, Tungsten color balance is the right choice.

Custom White Balance

Among the other color balance settings, your camera offers a custom lighting (Custom White Balance, PRE on Nikon cameras) setting. With that option selected, you hold a neutral gray (18%) card in front of the lens and press the shutter button. The camera will read and lock in the color temperature of the light reflected from that card. That reading you take will now become the standard for the camera’s white balance until you select another setting.

Color of Light Color Checker Gray Card

When in doubt about mixed lighting conditions, the use of a gray card for establishing accurate color balance is the most accurate way to go.

Conclusion

The takeaway truth here is that you have very powerful exposure and color balance tools at your disposal. Whether you shoot with an expensive DSLR or a smartphone, take your art seriously. Invest the time to learn something new about photography every day.

Stay focused.

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Report: Instagram to allow posting of hour-long videos

06 Jun

When Instagram first introduced the ability to upload video files in 2013, the length of clips was limited to 15 seconds. Since then the limit has been increased to one minute, but that’s still not exactly long-form video.

Currently the only way to share longer videos is by live-streaming, but according to a report in The Wall Street Journal this could be about to change. Apparently the Facebook-owned mobile image sharing platform is working on the ability to allow uploads of videos with a length of up to one hour.

According to the report, Instagram is currently putting an emphasis on uploading and publishing video in vertical format, which given the platform’s popularity, could have serious impacts on how video will be shot and produced in the future in general. That said, some details could change before the feature is officially launched.

The company is also talking to video content creators about and publishers about creating longer videos for Instagram. Presumably this is done to ensure the availability of some high-quality content on the platform at the time of launch.

We’ll have to wait and see what the final product will look like but this latest Instagram move could be a big one, offering an alternative platform for video bloggers and even the ability to stream professionally produced shows and other types of content.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Peak Design acknowledges flaw with its Anchor connectors, is offering free replacements

06 Jun

For the fourth time since Peak Design launched its first camera strap system, the San Francisco-based camera bag and accessory manufacturer is changing its Anchor connectors—the little pieces that attach to your gear and snap into its camera straps.

The change comes after Peak Design realized its third version of the dyneema Anchor connectors, which were originally made to accommodate a larger variety of camera systems with smaller eyelets, are prematurely wearing out and failing.

According to Peak Design, there have only been seven reported failures of Anchor connectors of the more than one million sold since August 2017. That means only one in every 17,000 customers have been affected. But Peak Design said that’s still too high of a failure rate.

As seen in the above comparison image, Peak Design is fixing the issue by making the Anchor connector cord thicker once again.

Peak Design says it’s notified all customers who’ve purchased version three of its Anchor connectors, be it standalone or in a package with a camera strap. If you’re afraid you missed the email or otherwise want to double-check, Peak Design has created an Anchor update survey to help you see if you qualify. Also, as of May 22nd, 2018, all camera straps purchased through Peak Design’s website will come with a free Anchor Update Kit. According to a post on its support page, Peak Design said ‘eventually’ all Peak Design camera straps will contain version four Anchor connectors.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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PanoClip is a 360-degree smartphone lens

06 Jun

If you’ve been toying with the idea of trying 360-degree imaging but are reluctant to spend large amounts of money on specialist equipment, the newly announced $ 50 PanoClip might be worth a good look.

The PanoClip snaps onto a smartphone and lets you capture 360-degree photos by combining images from the device’s front and rear cameras. The latter are aligned with the PanoClip’s built-in super-wide-angle lenses and image output from both cameras is stitched in real-time in the PanoClip companion app.

The app also allows you to create a “Tiny Planet” effect and can convert 360-degree images into short video clips that showcase the scene in every direction. A number of filter effects are available as well and sharing options include Instagram, Snapchat, Twitter, Facebook and other social platforms.

PanoClip looks like a clever idea. Smartphones already have front and rear cameras, so there isn’t really a need for 360-degree clip-on cameras to come with their own sensors and lens combos. Wide angle conversion lenses for the built-in cameras in the phone are enough and reduce cost. What’s the effect on image quality? We don’t know yet but we hope to get a test unit in our hands sometime soon.

PanoClip can now be ordered at PanoClip.com for $ 49.99 in two body configurations. The full version can be used with screen protectors and thin protective cases. The PanoClip Lite does not work with any any protective gear. Both are compatible with the iPhones 6/Plus, 6s/Plus, 7/Plus, 8/Plus and X. The PanoClip team is also working on a version for Android devices.

Press Release:

PanoClip Lets You Shoot 360° and ‘Tiny Planets’ from Your Phone for $ 49.99

The groundbreaking PanoClip launched today, letting anyone effortlessly take 360° photos and “Tiny Planet” shots straight from their phone. Using a cleverly designed dual-lens system, PanoClip snaps instantly onto a smartphone, and then creates a seamless 360° photo by combining images from the front and rear cameras.

Available today to iPhone users for $ 49.99 USD, PanoClip is the first device of its kind. It pairs perfectly with the cameras people use most – their phones – and makes 360° capture easier than ever before. An Android version will be available soon.

Introducing PanoClip: https://youtu.be/4hRdKWWExvA

How It Works

Traditional 360° cameras use two or more cameras to capture all angles of a scene, before stitching them together into a single image. PanoClip works on the same principle, but thanks to some ingenious tech, it achieves the same result with the two cameras that are likely already in your pocket.

Using PanoClip could not be simpler. Snapping it onto the top of a phone will align its super-wide-angle lenses with the phone’s front and rear cameras. Then, all that’s left to do is open up the companion app and start taking 360° snapshots.

PanoClip users will never miss a detail, and they’ll easily capture vibrant, dynamic scenes with action in every direction, such as music festivals or parties. When users want to focus on a particular part of the action, the screenshot feature lets them re-frame the best angles.

Sharing is effortless, with integrated publishing options for Instagram, Snapchat, Twitter, Facebook and every popular social platform.

Karen Cheng introducing the PanoClip: https://youtu.be/3dPu4_pm1aM

Your Whole World… But Tinier

Along with capturing immersive 360° scenes that can be explored with a simple finger swipe, PanoClip also unlocks a world of creative possibilities for traditional “flat” pictures, such as the unique Tiny Planet effect.

Tiny Planet shots roll an entire 360° view into a traditional rectangular or square frame, allowing creators to get mind-bending effects that show the world in an all-new way.

How To Make a Tiny Planet (Karen Cheng Tutorial): https://youtu.be/fQ-Z8IC2IR4

Spin View, SkyWarp and Filter Effects

The PanoClip’s Spin View feature lets users take advantage of the benefits of 360° photos on any social media platform – even those that don’t natively support 360° content.

Spin View converts 360° snapshots into short, dynamic video clips that showcase the scene in every direction and bend it into eye-catching shapes.

Plus, users can apply the new SkyWarp effect to add a stunning twist to these video clips. For shots taken outdoors, the PanoClip app will automatically detect the horizon, and then swap out the sky with a variety of preset skyscapes that shift and flow in time with a music clip. It’s trippy, fun and will make your friends think you’ve got crazy editing skills.

The PanoClip app also offers a full range of colorful filters, and a variety of stickers to add a creative touch to any 360° scene.

PanoClip is available now at PanoClip.com. Two body configurations, a full and a Lite version, together offer compatibility for iPhone 6/Plus, 6s/Plus, 7/Plus, 8/Plus and X. An Android version is also on the way.

To purchase a PanoClip or learn more, visit PanoClip.com today.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Genuinely Useful Photoshop Actions

06 Jun

I use Lightroom for basic editing and raw conversions, but I still like to tweak my photos in Photoshop. Mostly, that’s just about familiarity. I’m a Photoshop addict. Technically, it makes sense to do as much editing in the raw convertor as possible—perhaps all of it—but I like the blank canvas that is Photoshop more than the frog-marched workflow of raw convertors. Besides, there are still things you can see and do in Photoshop that aren’t possible in Lightroom.

Although I might spend a fair while in Photoshop doing labor-intensive things, for the most part, I’m looking to edit photos quickly and naturally so they might be broadly acceptable for publication. I want my pictures to look good without going down the path of fancy effects, which would often narrow their salability.

Create photoshop actions

One way I can quickly tweak photos in Photoshop CC is to have a collection of Actions available. This article will show you five useful Photoshop Actions (available for download at the end of the article) curated and/or adapted by me that have nothing to do with 1970s summery film effects, light leak effects, or anything like that. Those are for another day.

Make Buttons for your Actions

Before we get down to the Actions, consider putting your Actions window into “Button Mode” once you’ve recorded or downloaded them. This makes actions more usable since it avoids you having to scroll down to find them. Nothing is faster than single clicks to get your images looking good, even if you have to back up sometimes.

You can customize the colors of your Action buttons if you want, perhaps assigning a different color to each type of edit.

Photoshop actions button mode

Observe and Adapt

One of the purposes of this article is to show you some neat tricks in Photoshop that you can incorporate into Actions. You’ll be able to see what’s happening and use the same tools to achieve different or better things. These Actions also make use of channel masks, which enable precise, flawlessly nuanced selections of color and tone for different types of edits.

Channels selections, Alpha channel, Photoshop CC

These Actions make heavy use of channels, selections, and layer masks.

Action #1 Saturation Boost

Ever since “vibrancy” was introduced, the use of saturation masks has diminished. The purpose of a saturation mask is to gradually mask the most or least saturated areas of an image, depending on whether you invert the selection or not. We can still use such a mask to create a saturation boost Action. It is made using Photoshop’s HSB/HSL filter.

HSB/HSL filter

The HSB/HSL filter has a psychedelic effect on the image.

An inverse saturation mask addresses the least saturated areas of the image more strongly, but there’s still an outside chance of clipping the RGB channels with it (i.e. overexposing or underexposing them and losing detail). In this Action, a “blend if” blending option has been added to give extra protection to shadows and highlights.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer (Cmd/Ctrl + J).
  2. Apply an HSB/HSL filter (RGB & HSB settings) to the duplicate layer – it will turn a weird color.
  3. Invert the colors of the layer (Ctrl/Cmd + I).
  4. Select the green channel under “channels”, right-click and create a duplicate channel (label it “Sat Mask”).
  5. Go back to layers and delete the duplicate layer.
  6. Back in channels, Ctrl/Cmd + click on the “Sat Mask” channel you just created (you should see marching ants on your open photo at this point).
  7. In layers, create a hue/saturation adjustment layer.
  8. Add +25 of saturation in the hue/saturation dialogue box (or any value that might be useful).
  9. Go to Layer > Layer Style > Blending Options.
  10. Under Blend If > This Layer, move the sliders inwards to 245 and 10 (or in that vicinity).
  11. Hold down the Alt key to split these sliders into two, moving the inner halves to values of 70 and 160. This feathers the selection to avoid harsh transitions in tone. Click “OK”.
  12. Delete the “Sat Mask” channel.
  13. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge all layers.

50-50 view of HSB/HSL filter and regular photo.

If the effect of the Action is too strong or weak for your liking, you can hit Ctrl/Cmd + Z to unblend the layers and alter the saturation value. Then simply blend again. This action is much the same as using the vibrancy slider only in fast button form.

Action #2 Mid-Tone Contrast +50

This relatively simple action injects contrast into the mid-tone to highlight areas of an image and leaves shadow areas untouched. Adding contrast in this way also intensifies the color. It’s akin to a curves adjustment, leaving the lower part of the curve untouched.

Photoshop contrast

Although it’s hard to appreciate in a side-by-side comparison, perhaps you can see the snappier highlights and slightly increased mid-tone saturation to the left side of this image. Shadows remain untouched.

Method

  1. Go to the channels palette and click on the RGB channel while holding down the Ctrl/Cmd key. This creates a selection on your background layer.
  2. Switch to your layers palette and hit Ctrl/Cmd + J keys, which will paste your masked selection onto a new layer.
  3. Go to blending modes (top left of the layers palette), and select Soft Light. Contrast is added to the mid-tone/highlight portions of your picture.
  4. Adjust the layer opacity to taste (set at 50% in the supplied Action).
  5. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge down the layers.

Action #3 Refined Clarity

This Photoshop Action is similar to the previous one in that it’s a type of contrast adjustment which protects the shadows. The main difference is that this one uses Clarity, which it borrows from ACR.

In terms of appearance, this Action reveals more textural detail than a straight contrast adjustment by emphasizing edges and small changes in tone. It affects the saturation less.

Clarity slider, clarity settings

The image on the left has some Clarity applied to it, but the shadows are protected to avoid the kind of crunchy look that occurs with a similar amount is applied in a raw converter (right).

(The Clarity slider gives much the same effect as “high radius, low amount” Unsharp Mask sharpening, which was a thing about 10 years ago.)

If you want to give flat images extra pop with a greater impression of depth and detail, this Photoshop Action works well. Once again, it uses a Blend If modifications to refine the result, avoiding the grunge that often makes excessive Clarity unsightly. By tapering the result from shadows to highlights, it does most of its work in the mid to high tones.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer (Ctrl/Cmd + J).
  2. Label the layer “Clarity”.
  3. Open ACR by clicking on Filter > Camera Raw Filter.
  4. Drag the Clarity slider to 100% (ignore the harsh result).
  5. Click OK and be returned to Photoshop.
  6. Open the blending options (Layer Style > Blending Options or double-click to the right of the layer name).
  7. Go to Blend If > Underlying Layer. Hold down the Alt key and drag the right-hand side of the shadow triangle on the left all the way to the far right.
  8. Click OK.
  9. Adjust the layer opacity to taste (the supplied Action is set to 60%).
  10. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge layers.

Action #4 Shadow Noise

In recent years, the Auto button in Lightroom and ACR has improved to such an extent that I sometimes click on it as an alternative starting point. The result is akin to a mild HDR effect. In particular, it tends to cut out the high contrast in images.

Photos that are intended for sale (however optimistically) don’t generally benefit from being loaded with hard-to-see, blocky detail.

In an image such as this one, I might hit Auto in the raw converter to unblock some of the shadows (as is the case in the top section of the picture: notice the railings, man’s coat, and architectural details).

Of course, the problem with bringing out shadow detail is that it invites noise. Depending on your camera and its settings, it might invite a lot of noise. If we create a Noise Reduction Action using a channel mask, we can target the darkest areas of an image. What’s more, the mask is perfectly feathered, so it will seamlessly apply more or less noise reduction according to the tones of the image.

On the right side of this image, you’ll note that the brighter areas are masked off (redder areas) and thus excluded from noise reduction.

The downside of creating a Photoshop Action for noise reduction is that normally you’d adjust the settings according to the properties of each photo. However, there’s nothing to stop you creating several noise reduction actions for different picture profiles. As well, you could integrate a noise reduction plugin that assesses each picture individually.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer and name it “Reduce Noise”.
  2. Apply noise reduction to the duplicate layer.
  3. Go to channels and Ctrl/Cmd + Click on the RGB channel, creating a selection.
  4. Hit Shift + Ctrl/Cmd + I to invert the selection.
  5. Click on “Save Selection as a Channel”.
  6. With the selection visible (marching ants) go back to layers and add a mask to your duplicate “Reduce Noise” layer.
  7. Delete the remaining extra channel (“Alpha 1” if you didn’t rename it).
  8. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge the layers.

Action #5 Web Sharpen

Sharpening is a contrast adjustment, where adjacent edges are made brighter and darker according to their tone to create the illusion of sharpness. The aim is to emphasize these edges without overdoing it and creating haloes.

One way you can control sharpening is with a luminosity mask, which automatically modifies the amount of edge contrast applied depending on how bright or dark it is. The beauty of this is that it’s subjective. Like other channel masks, it fades the effect of your edit based purely on the content of the image. The only control you have to think about is opacity, which might be greater or smaller depending on the size of the image.

channels mask, luminosity mask, Photoshop

By applying a luminosity mask, sharpening is proportionately reduced in the darker parts of the image (shown as deep red). This ensures that less attention is given to any noisy shadow areas, which we don’t want to sharpen. The Action also shields bright highlights from sharpening using a Blend If setting.

I find that this Action at 10% opacity works well on web images of between 800 and 1200 pixels wide.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer and name it “Sharpen”.
  2. Open channels, hold down the  Ctrl/Cmd key and click on the RGB channel, creating a selection.
  3. Click on the “Save selection as channel” icon at the bottom of the channels palette. A new channel will appear called “Alpha 1”.
  4. Deselect it by hitting Ctrl/Cmd + D or by clicking Select > Deselect.
  5. Click on your “Sharpen” layer to make it live.
  6. Go to Filter > Unsharp Mask and select a high value of 400-500, a radius of around 0.8 to 1.2, and a value of 0.
  7. Ctrl/Cmd + click on the “Alpha 1” channel in the channels palette (the selection will reappear as marching ants).
  8. Go back to the layers palette and with your “Sharpen” layer selected, click on the “Add layer mask” icon. This modifies the sharpening effect.
  9. Click on Layer> Layer Style > Blending Options.
  10. Move the right-hand slider under “This Layer” to 245.
  11. Holding down the Alt key, split the left-hand side of this slider and move it to around 220.
  12. Click OK.
  13. Adjust the layer opacity to taste (the download action is set at 10%).
  14. Delete Alpha 1 channel.
  15. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge layers.

Photoshop Action Crashes

Occasionally, for reasons unclear to me, Photoshop Actions seem to crash and will not thereafter work without a Photoshop restart. A sure sign that this has happened, aside from inaction and error messages, is that the button in “button mode” changes color.

Download the Set

Download these actions here for free. To install: open the download directly into Photoshop or load from within Actions.

Finally

If an Action doesn’t improve the photo as you’d hoped, you can delete or add elements as you wish, perhaps with different settings or to refine the result. I hope this article inspires you to experiment with some of Photoshop’s more powerful tools. Good luck!

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