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Archive for March, 2018

Nikon releases new firmware for nine cameras, mostly AF-P lens support

04 Mar

Nine Nikon DSLR models are getting new firmware to fix a few issues users have been encountering, particularly when using AF-P lenses. Updated models include the D4, D4s, Df, D800, D800E, D810, D810A, D7100, and D7200.

The whole lot of them received these fixes:

Added the following supports for AF-P lenses:

  • If the standby timer expires after focusing, the focus position will no longer change when the timer is reactivated.
  • When focus is adjusted by rotating the lens focus ring, the focus indicator in the viewfinder (and in live view, the focus point in the monitor) now flash to indicate when infinity or the minimum focus distance is reached.

The D4, D4s, Df, D800 and D800E received the following fixes:

Added support for AF-P DX lenses.

And the D4, Df, D800 and D800E also benefit from:

When photos were taken using Camera Control Pro 2 after Custom Setting d10 (Exposure delay mode) was enabled in the CUSTOM SETTING MENU, the software would sometimes mistakenly display a message stating that no photo could be taken.

Finally, the Nikon D810 and D810A received fixes to their microphone operation and multiple exposure modes, while the D7100 and D7200 get updates that fix an issue of incorrect exposures when E-type lenses are used in live view mode.

For more information on all of these updates, or if you want to get your Nikon DSLR up to the latest firmware version, visit the Nikon firmware download web page.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Use Adobe’s DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

04 Mar

Have you ever heard of Adobe’s DNG Profile Editor? No? It’s okay if you haven’t because up until about a month ago I had no idea it even existed. It’s a little bit of an Adobe secret.

Despite being a relatively unknown piece of software the DNG Profile Editor (no easy way to abbreviate) is somewhat of a necessity when it comes to editing infrared images. Not only that, it is extremely useful if you like being a complete photography nerd and you enjoy creating your own unique flavor of processing.

Think of the DNG Profile Editor as a way to make presets that are something more just your run of the mill develop preset. Enough of introducing it, this is the DNG Profile Editor in all its glory:

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Just kidding, it’s not very impressive but it serves to facilitate a very useful function. What function do you ask? It allows you to create your own custom camera profiles for use inside Lightroom’s Adobe Camera Raw.

Camera profiles are the silent weapon of post-processing but they don’t get a lot of press. I won’t go too far into explaining the usefulness of camera profiles here, but there is an excellent article by Andrew Gibson here on dPS if you want to learn more about camera calibration and profiles in Lightroom.

For the purposes of this article, I will focus on how you can make your very own custom camera profiles using Adobe’s little secret, the DNG Profile Editor. Oh, and did I mention the software is available absolutely FREE from Adobe? If you want to follow along with me then click one of the links below to download the latest build of the DNG Profile Editor from Adobe.

  • DNG Profile Editor for Windows
  • DNG Profile Editor for Mac

Adobe DNG Profile Editor Geography

Finding your way around the DNG Profile Editor is alarmingly straightforward because the majority of the controls are nestled on the right-hand side of the window.How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

This is where you will make your custom camera profiles. As you’ll notice there are a number of tabs at the top. I’ll briefly explain what each one of them does.

Color tables

The color table is just the color wheel and it is laid out for you to pick colors from your image (more on this later) to adjust their hue and saturation as well as lightness. You can also control the temperature of the color table in degrees Kelvin just as you would in Lightroom.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

This is all birthed from the embedded profiles (or downloaded) from the camera used to make the image being used as a reference. Base your custom camera profile on existing profiles of your particular camera by using the “Base Profile” drop-down.

Tone Curve

This is the familiar face in the DNG Profile Editor. The Tone Curve is a long-standing staple in not only Lightroom but many other post-processing software offerings. Here, it operates exactly the same as it does elsewhere by allowing you to adjust luminance values.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Color Matrices

Through 99% of your work, you will likely use the Color Matrices tab of the DNG Profile Editor more than any other section. This is a boiled down version of the color table and is extremely useful for adjusting the global white balance of your image as well as RGB hue and saturation.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

As I mentioned earlier, if you are a practitioner of infrared photography the Color Matrices tab will become your best friend.

Options

In the Options section, you can name your custom camera profile and add the copyright information.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

The Options tab is incredibly simple but don’t let that fool you. It is perhaps the most important part of the DNG Profile Editor as far as the way you will eventually be able to locate and apply your custom camera profiles.

Chart

In a program that is already geared towards more advanced manipulation of RAW files, the Chart tab is the Jedi level of the DNG Profile Editor. It is used for making color profiles based on the use of a color chart to fine-tune accurate color renditions based on different natural and artificial lighting scenarios.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

I seldom find myself in portrait, product, or other situations when light-based color rendition is needed. However, if you are a studio or location shooter who uses speedlights or constant artificial lighting the Color Chart option is a valuable tool.

How to make a Custom Profile

Next, let’s walk through the making of a custom camera profile using the DNG Profile Editor.

Make a DNG file

You’re going to need a DNG (digital negative) RAW file to base your profile adjustments upon. The great thing is that Lightroom offers a super simple way to convert any RAW image file to a DNG.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

To get started, right-click on a RAW file in Lightroom. Select Export > Export to DNG (under the Lightroom Presets section). I usually just send my DNG base files to the desktop for quick access but feel free to place yours anywhere you choose.

Next, open the DNG Profile Editor program and select File > Open DNG Image from the drop-down menu.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Locate the DNG file you just exported from Lightroom and it will open automatically in the editor.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Using the DNG Profile Editor

From here, the world is your oyster as far as creating your custom camera profile. You can adjust the color tones and hues of colors within the photo based on your needs. The possibilities are virtually limitless so I will show a few examples to demonstrate the effects.

In the Color Tables section, I select three separate colors within the leaves in the image and they now appear both on the color wheel and in the color picker table at the right. You can choose as many colors as you like. I’ve based my profile on the Faithful profile from my Canon 5D MK3.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

You can select each color from the table and adjust their individual hues, saturation, and lightness. Toggle the on/off of your edits using the black boxes and completely remove the selection with the minus (-) sign. Here is the photo after some fairly drastic hue and saturation adjustments from the color table.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Moving on to the Tone Curve, you can adjust the image just as you would anywhere else by changing the curve. For our example, I’ll add contrast by implementing a classic S-curve.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

In the color matrices section, you can further manipulate the colors and white balance of the RAW file. I’ve made some radical changes here just for the sake of example (plus it’s fun).

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Keep in mind that when using the DNG Profile Editor you are free to use as many or as few of the tools it offers, either together or singularly.

Saving Your Custom Profile

From here it’s just a matter of naming and saving the custom profile you just made. Switch over to the Options tab.How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Enter a name for your custom profile so you can easily identify it later in Lightroom. Also, it is here where you can add in copyright information and other options.

Unless you’ve chosen to use a custom color chart, it’s time to export and actually put your freshly made camera profile to use. Exporting the profile is incredibly easy. Click File > Export (your camera name) Profile.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Yes, Adobe calls these profiles recipes, which is fitting in an odd kind of way.

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

Make sure the export was successful and then click OK (see below).

How to Use Adobe's DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles

And you’re done! (Unless you’d like to also save your recipe for editing later in which case just select Save As in addition to the export.)

There’s no locating the new profile or trying to remember where you placed it on your computer. The DNG Profile Editor does everything for you and will park it exactly where it needs to be for use in Lightroom. Speaking of which, let’s use the new profile in Lightroom. Here’s how.

Applying Your Custom Profile

If you had Lightroom open while you made your new profile, be sure to restart it for the changes to take effect. Next, scroll down to the Camera Calibration Panel of the Develop module. Click on the Profile drop-down.

*Unless you’d like to also save your recipe for editing later in which case just select ‘Save As’ in addition to the export.

Boom. There is your newly minted camera profile. Remember, these profiles are camera exclusive. For example, the profile I just made will only work with a Canon 5D MK3. It won’t work an image from my Sony A7R, for example.

Some Final Thoughts on Adobe’s DNG Profile Editor

Is the DNG Profile Editor a piece of software that is intended for everyone? Well, not exactly. That isn’t to say that even non-professional shooters can make great use of its tools.

It allows you to customize exactly how Adobe handles its RAW files and enables you to save new camera profiles to fit different situations. If you regularly employ artificial lighting on location or in the studio you will love the DNG Profile Editor. Oh, and remember, as I mentioned before these profiles can also be used in Adobe Camera Raw (inside Photoshop).

*Unless you’d like to also save your recipe for editing later in which case just select ‘Save As’ in addition to the export.

Just select your custom profiles from the Camera Calibration section of ACR and continue as usual.

Thanks for sticking with me all the way to the end. I hope you at least give the DNG Profile Editor a test drive. After all, it’s free and could potentially open up new creative possibilities for your work.

The post How to Use Adobe’s DNG Profile Editor to Make Custom Camera Profiles by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Behind the scenes: Photographing mountain hares in Scotland

04 Mar

The high winds blow the snowflakes into my face, and the stinging feeling in my eyes forces me to look down as I continue to walk forward. I remove the snow that has gathered in the lens hood on my Nikon 200-500mm and, with my binoculars, I search the landscape in front of me.

Nothing to see. Not a single mountain hare.

I am in a total whiteout of blowing snow, and it’s only because of the more clear and calm weather of a few hours ago that I’m aware of the the beauty of this Scottish landscape I am surrounded by here in the heart of the Cairngorms National park.

Who I Am

My name is Morten Hilmer and I am a full time professional wildlife photographer and former special force soldier in the Arctic Dogsled unit – the Sirius Dogsled Patrol. I am specialized in photographing in the Arctic regions and since 2005 I have spent more than 4 years in the amazing high Arctic nature.

(You can read more about my time in the Sirius Dog Sled Patrol on the BBC Earth website).

Beside the many publications, my photographs have been awarded in the Wildlife photographer of the year and European Wildlife Photographer of the Year photo competitions. And in Spring 2017, I published my first book: Silence of the North.

Wildlife photography for me is all about fascination, getting close to nature, feeling its authenticity, and sometimes even feeling reunited. Through my work, it is my mission to share my fascination and raise awareness of the importance of taking care of this awesome planet and all creatures living on it.

Nature Photography is also about adventures—whether the adventure is an expedition to the desolated freezing ice desert of North Greenland, or a shorter trip to the local forest. For me one is never better than the other.

Photographing Mountain Hares

A short break in the snowfall gives me just enough visibility to skim the landscape in front of me and just enough time to get a glimpse of a movement about 50 meters in front of me. I kneel down to support my arm on my knee to keep the binocular more steady. It is the the mountain hare. Instantly I feel excited and extremely lucky.

Slowly, I walk closer while concentrating on the hare and keeping my movements as slow and invisible as possible—I don’t want to scare this little guy. Not only will it destroy my opportunity to get some good shots, but more importantly, it will disturb this little hare that already has a hard time finding enough food to get through the winter.

I am now quite close and I decide to leave my camera bag behind to make it easier to crawl the last distance. I grab an extra battery and my card holder, and get my vlogging camera ready with the microphone. I fell the need to share this moment, even though it adds another challenging element that I have to record myself at the same time as I am working.

What’s In My Bag

For a trip like this, I need to be able to cary everything on my back, which means all of my equipment has to fit into one Lowepro Pro trekker 600 AW. Therefore, I decided to leave my big Nikon 600mm F4 at home and instead bring the smaller, lighter and more flexible Nikon 200-500mm.

As for the camera, I am using my Nikon D5—primary because of its durability in cold, wet conditions like this one. I was tempted to bring the D850 because of the superb image quality, but I have had a few moisture problems when I’ve really challenged it with snow and heavy rain.

I have also brought the Nikon 16-35mm VR and, of course, some extra batteries, cards, cleaning equipment etc.

As for my vlogging camera, I am currently using a Panasonic GH5 with the Røde Videomicro and the 42.5mm and 12mm Leica lenses. I charge the batteries for this camera with power banks.

If you want to dive deeper into my equipment, I explain it in a little more depth in this video.

How I Set Up My Camera

Everything is ready and I move a little bit closer. Through the viewfinder, I can sometimes see the hare and sometimes it disappears, hidden by the blowing snow.

I find myself using almost the exact same camera setup and setting whenever I capture wildlife photography, regardless of which camera and brand I am using. I primary shoot with Nikon, but I have also worked with the Canon 1D X Mark II, the Canon 5D Mark IV, and the Sony A7S.

My camera is set to manual exposure, and because of the constantly changing light I turn on auto ISO. I use this setting because I want to be able to set both the aperture and shutter speed myself to get the perfect level of blurred background, and at the same time use the shutter speed that gives me the exact level of movement in the blowing snow that I want.

This way, I get the best from both the worlds of aperture and shutter priority programs, allowing only the ISO to be the variable factor. Yes, I do run the risk of noise, but I always keep and eye on how high the ISO goes as I shoot.

I set my AF to 3D, and assign the function button on the front to single point AF—I am ready.

An Amazing Experience

It is interesting how looking into the viewfinder can make everything else around me disappear. I reckon all photographers know this feeling. Only me and the little hare—nothing else exists. I watch how he sits there in his little snow bed and, only every now-and-then, he moves a little bit. I don’t dare to take my eyes from the viewfinder.

Suddenly, the hare raises and stretches his long leg and then, without warning, he rolls around in the snow. The time he gives me to react is too short but what did I expect—this is what us wildlife photographers have to deal with all the time, and I assume it’s also one of the things that makes us keep going out again and again… all these photos that we have seen but haven’t been able to capture.

I manage to get a few shots of the rolling hare, but already before I look at them, I know they are not totally in focus. This is fantastic—so intense.

The little fellow sits for a moment looking at me and I pray that he will not run away. He decides to stay. He starts eating the sparse vegetation and with his small paws he scrapes away the snow on top.

I don’t know for how long I have been here, but it is getting quite dark and I am getting colder laying in the snow. My thoughts starts to travel to the side pocket of my backpack where I keep my thermal with warm coffee.

As I walk down the mountain I think about this little hare who is still sitting up there on the mountain in the blizzard, patiently waiting for the Spring. It is so fascinating how they manage to survive in such conditions. It is my first time photographing wildlife in Scotland, but definitely not the last. It has been an absolutely fantastic experience to spend some time with the hares in highlands of this amazing country and tomorrow I am going further up north to find and hopefully photograph the impressive stags.

A Few of My Favorite Settings

Set custom button to preview

One of the most important things for me is that I want to have my left hand on the lens— at the ready to zoom in or out, and to take over manually when autofocus fails. Therefore, I always set one of the custom buttons to preview the image, and another to zoom the image 100%.

I like to have the preview button as the lowest function button on the front of the camera, so that I can press it with one of my fingers without having to move my index finger from the shutter and the thumb from my AF-lock button.

Predefined AF on custom button

Before I start photographing, I alway choose the autofocus method that I believe will do the best job. In my case, it is often the 3D AF on the Nikon D5—either that, or single point AF. Then I try to predict which other AF method I will need, and I set the top button on the front of the camera to use this method as long as it’s pressed.

Auto ISO on/off

Because of the option of doing exposure compensation in manual mode with auto ISO on, I use either this setting or full manual almost all the time. I call Manual with Auto ISO: MAI. To be able to make a quick switch between M and MAI, I setup one of the custom buttons near the release button to toggle Auto ISO on/off.

Behind the Scenes Videos

In November 2017, I started a new video project that takes other photographers and nature enthusiasts behind the scenes on my travels. In a series of 4k YouTube videos, I share my experiences from my trips and expeditions around the world.

Below are Part 1 and Part 2 of Photographing Mountain Hares:


Morten Hilmer is a professional wildlife photographer and former Danish special forces soldier in the Sirius Dog Sled Patrol, an Arctic dog sled unit. For the past 13 years, he’s specialized in capturing Arctic landscapes and wildlife. You can find more of his work on his website, or by following him on Instagram and Facebook.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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RAW Versus JPEG – Which one is right for you and why?

04 Mar

Most cameras today can shoot pictures in one of two main formats: RAW versus JPEG. The debate about which format to use is as old as digital photography itself and the internet is rife with articles, blogs, videos, and seminars illustrating the differences between the formats as well as opinions regarding which one to use.

Ultimately the question of which is the correct choice becomes steeped in subjectivity. There is no single objective correct answer, which is a lesson I learned over the course of many years. Instead of asking which option is right, the real question should be which option is right for you.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one to use and why?

Straight-out-of-camera JPEG file.

Differentiating between the formats

Understanding the difference between RAW and JPEG file formats is a bit tricky since both appear somewhat similar at first glance. Afterall, when you load either file type into Lightroom or another photo editor you see pretty much the same thing.

However, when you take a picture in RAW you are saving as much data as your camera sensor can possibly collect. Whereas a JPEG file discards some of the data in favor of creating an image that takes up less space on your memory card and is easy to share. With RAW files you gain a huge amount of flexibility in terms of editing the file, and a lot of photographers prefer this as a way to get the most out of their images.

RAW is somewhat comparable to analog film in that RAW files can be manipulated, massaged, and modified to bring to life details from dark areas, recover crystal-clear clouds from what you thought was an overexposed skyline, and improve images dramatically in almost every way.

JPEG files don’t offer nearly as much flexibility, but they do have some significant advantages in their own right. The most notable of which is a much smaller file size and ease of sharing, since JPEG files don’t need to be converted in a program like Lightroom, Photoshop, Luminar, etc.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one to use and why?

It wasn’t RAW or JEPG that helped me get this photo. It was an understanding, developed from years of practice, of how light, aperture, focal length, and other parameters can be manipulated to create a compelling image.

The important thing to note is that neither format is inherently better than the other and each has its uses. To illustrate what I mean I’m going to share a bit from my own experience.

Starting from scratch

My own journey through the RAW versus JPEG continuum started shortly after I got serious about digital photography many years ago, in a manner not dissimilar from many photographers. When I got my first DSLR I didn’t know anything about RAW and instead fiddled with different JPEG settings in order to find a balance of quality and quantity.

I eventually settled on the Medium size and Medium compression so as to make sure I could take well over 4000 images before running out of space on my memory card. I had heard about the RAW setting but ignored it since it would only let me fit a couple hundred shots on my memory card which seemed silly compared to several thousand.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one to use and why?

As months went by, I became intrigued with the flexibility offered by the RAW format despite the larger size of each image file. I learned to edit my pictures in Lightroom by changing White Balance, boosting the shadows, editing color filters in the black and white mode, and even applying Radial and Gradient filters.

I soon realized that the trade-off in file size was worth it because I could do so much more with my images in post-production. “Who wouldn’t want to shoot in RAW?” I asked myself. I also often engaged other aspiring photographers in the discussion of shooting RAW versus JPEG while believing that RAW was clearly the superior format.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

Original picture, shot in RAW format.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

Finished version after some editing in Lightroom. If the original was shot in JPG I never would have been able to get a final result like this.

It didn’t take much longer until I was shooting everything in RAW. My kids eating breakfast, my family vacations, formal portrait sessions, random nature shots of animals and leaves…you name it, I shot it in RAW. Shooting in JPEG, I told myself, was for suckers who didn’t know any better!

Each time I loaded yet another round of my RAW files into Lightroom (while getting something to drink and finding a place to put my feet up while the initial previews loaded) I knew that no matter what the pictures looked like I had the absolute best photo quality money could buy.

I was enamored with the RAW workflow and editing flexibility. Shadows too dark? No problem, just lighten them with a few sliders. White Balance a little off? Sky looking a bit too gray? Spots from dust on the lens? Too much noise from shooting at ISO 12,800? All these worries could be erased with a few clicks and sliders, and my images would be instantly slowly transformed from adequate to awesome.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

Cracks in the facade

As the years went on I found myself learning, growing, and changing as a photographer, but ironically enjoying the editing process less and less. I recall the distinct and overwhelming feeling of photographic oppression settling in as I returned home from family trips only to load my RAW files into Lightroom and be faced with hundreds of minor edits to make on each one before I was satisfied with the results.

To combat this I made a develop custom preset that contained basic adjustments such as highlight/shadows, sharpening, and clarity and applied that to every single one of my pictures upon import.

Weeks would often go by before I would be ready to share my pictures because I was stuck in the rut of meticulous editing. Even a simple birthday party for my son’s friend turned into a month-long wait because I didn’t want to share any pictures unless they were adjusted to perfection. With a family and a full-time job, the act of tweaking my images became more of a burden than an enjoyment.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

I did not like the idea of tweaking hundreds of RAW files just to enjoy pictures of my family.

What I came to realize after years of doing this was that I simply wasn’t interested in reaping the benefits of shooting RAW for my own personal photography. For client work, I continued to shoot RAW in order to make sure the end results were as good as they could possibly be.

But for nearly all of my own personal pictures, I got to a mental state where I simply didn’t care about editing each and every single picture. Occasionally I would make some cropping adjustments, but I realized I was pretty happy with the results I was getting straight out of my camera.

I didn’t dare shoot in JPEG though because Real Photographers Shoot RAW…or so I thought. I didn’t want to admit that RAW wasn’t really doing much for me, and I thought shooting JPEG was tantamount to admitting I didn’t know what I was doing. That I couldn’t handle the ropes of what it meant to be a true photographer, a true artist.

A revelation occurs

This state of confusion and self-doubt continued until late 2017 when I came across this video from Tony Northup.

?

Watching that was somewhat of a revelation and helped me realize that I wasn’t any less of a photographer if I shot in anything but the RAW format. While there’s certainly something to be said for capturing images in the highest possible quality, there is also something to be said for speed and convenience – both areas in which JPEG excels.

What I have realized as I looked back over my images from the past several years is that I’ve gotten significantly better at the aspects of photography that shooting in RAW can’t fix at all. I’ve learned about composition, lighting, capturing emotions, when to shoot, how to ask for permission from strangers, and even how to share images online in a more effective manner.

I have learned to put my camera down and enjoy the moment, and I’ve learned that not everything in life needs to be photographed ad infinitum. RAW can’t help if my kids are out of focus or if my angles are bad, and I’ve learned to pay better attention to my light meter and exposure settings so I don’t need to recover highlights and shadows in post-production like I did when I started out.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

Straight-out-of-camera JPEG.

Permission to be imperfect

More importantly, I have come to a place as a photographer where I don’t need each and every one of my pictures to be perfect. When I look through photo albums from when I was a kid almost none of the images are ideal. Many are a little under or over-exposed, the framing isn’t always right, and there’s plenty of red-eye issues that could use fixing thanks to my dad’s copious use of his external flash. But it’s the emotions, the feelings, the memories, and the people in those images that really matter the most to me.

When I scroll through images from 15 years ago when all my wife and I had was a cheesy little pocket camera, I don’t care that most of them are low-res JPEG files. It’s what’s in the pictures that matter, and nowadays I’d rather spend my time capturing good photos than editing my RAW files.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

A photo of my friends and I on a high school trip to Disney World in 1997. It may not be perfect but I don’t need it to be. It’s the people and the memories I care about, not whether it was shot in RAW or JPEG. (Spoiler: it was shot on film!)

Enabling the JPEG option on my camera has felt like a breath of fresh air, and I’m back to enjoying photography in a way I haven’t done in years. I’m experimenting with my Fuji camera’s built-in ACROS and Classic Chrome film simulations, and I’ve even created what basically amounts to a Lightroom preset in my camera by adding some highlight/shadow/sharpening adjustments using the various menu options. It’s great fun, requires no extra Lightroom editing, and I’m back to enjoying photography the way I used to so many years ago.

Choose both

Above all else, it’s important to understand that shooting in RAW versus JPEG does not have to be a strict dichotomy. It’s taken many years, but I now feel comfortable knowing when to use RAW, when to use JPEG, and understanding the benefits and drawbacks of each. Even though I mostly shoot JPEG for casual snapshots I’ll occasionally switch over to RAW if I think the situation demands it.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

I chose to use RAW instead of JPEG for this snapshot because I knew I would have to deal with some bright highlights and dark shadows, and I’d be able to finesse the image in Lightroom to get it how I wanted if I shot RAW.

Finding a solution that works for you

The reason there is no answer to the question of whether to use RAW or JPEG is that every photographer must figure out his or her own approach. For me, shooting JPG is just fine in most situations. One could argue that I’m not getting as much out of my images as I could be, and perhaps that is indeed true.

But if using RAW causes me to dread the process of editing and abate my photography altogether then I would say shooting RAW actually results in me getting less out of my photos than I could be if I were using JPEG.

RAW Versus JPEG - Which one is right for you and why?

When doing formal sessions for clients I always use RAW even if I think I might not need it. It’s a safety net that has come in handy far too often.

Conclusion

I should also note that many cameras can offer the best of both worlds by letting you shoot in RAW+JPEG mode. If you like the JPEG file, great! And if not, you have the RAW file which you can edit to your heart’s content. If you’re on the fence this might be an option to consider, but beware that it will fill up your memory cards much faster than you might realize.

As I close I want to offer one final piece of advice, or rather, reiterate a point I hinted at earlier. Don’t let anyone tell you that your method, approach or viewpoint is not valid. If you like RAW, great! Go ahead and use it. If you prefer JPEG, you are no less of a photographer than someone who swears by RAW.

I would recommend learning as much as you can and experimenting with available options so you can make an informed decision. But at the end of the day, if you like the results you’re getting from your approach then, by all means, go ahead and do it. Now stop reading, get off the internet, pick up your camera, and go out to take some photos!

The post RAW Versus JPEG – Which one is right for you and why? by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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The way you Can Deliver A specialist Top quality Plastering Complete

03 Mar

Plastering is without a doubt an really aged artwork that is certainly unquestionably still in use currently. Plaster is usually a organic item, hydrated gypsum, while using the chemical formulation of CaSO4.2H2O. This dries into a fantastic white powder which may be combined with further h2o and shaped. It has typically been used for interior partitions, also to develop ornate trims. It’s the basis with the portray strategy referred to as fresco the place illustrations or photos are painted even though the plaster remains soaked. The plaster was frequently stabilized with the addition of elements for instance animal hair,plasterer stoke on trent or perhaps a base for instance cloth. Exterior partitions are often plastered with powdered limestone (stucco).

Lots of contemporary interior partitions are created from a pre-formed plaster board also referred to as drywall or sheet rock. In comparison with conventional tactics these are quickly set up by nailing to studs or joists and possessing the joints and nailheads concealed by plastered tape. Alternatively the whole floor might be lined working with a thin coat of plaster, termed veneering.

In either case, plastering continues to be to become a job which might be hard for the regular do-it-yourself-er. It truly is a specialised talent and for your greatest perform, contractors and householders hire a specialist to achieve acceptable outcomes. Not just does it have to have expertise to bring about a clean surface area, but a plasterer is in the constant race with all the speed on the chemical reaction given that the plaster dries. To accomplish that excellent end it is actually a race against time simply because after the plaster has started to set you will find not much which the average male can do about this.

On the other hand, for smaller sized positions, like to repair service wall or ceiling cracks, or small holes, dwelling repairs is often accomplished fairly quickly. Blown plaster, where by the plaster has separated through the backing, is more difficult, but can be tackled by a significant handyman.

With a total plastered wall, preliminary coats of plaster are used utilizing a skimming float, an enormous flat-surfaced tool which is held in a slight angle to drag the plaster across a wall. Subsequent coats are extra with a technique known as float and set. This simply implies that the next coat is utilized and floated (smoothed), and allowed to established. To permit each and every coat to stick effectively, there ought to be a way for it to kind a essential with all the area beneath. On lath, spaces among the slats allow plaster to ooze between and tightly connect. The subsequent coat is going to be roughened slightly ahead of it is dried to permit the coat higher than it to stick tightly, and so on.

To achieve a wonderful good quality plastering career, it is advisable to contact within a professional, except for individuals smaller repair service work. Until you happen to be a professional otherwise you have within the incredibly minimum accomplished it ahead of and you were happy with your outcome then my recommend into the typical man is, depart it by itself. You can find nothing at all worse than looking at a very poor plastering career and likewise it could be high priced to get it put appropriate. A expert plasterer will likely be high-priced. To this point as I’m involved, they can be really worth their weight in gold.

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CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the new Tamron 70-210mm F4 VC

03 Mar

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

Tamron’s new 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD looks like a really promising lens, offering a more compact and affordable alternative to the company’s existing 70-200mm F2.8 telezoom. We got our hands on one at the CP+ trade show in Yokohama, Japan – click through for a closer look.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

To start, the 70-210mm F4 VC really is impressively compact, weighing just 859 grams. It balances very well on a Nikon D750, one of the smaller full-frame DSLRs currently on the market, and shouldn’t give you a hand cramp if you haven’t shelled out for your camera’s accessory battery grip.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

As with Tamron’s 70-200mm F2.8, the new F4 version features a two-ring design, with the zoom ring pushed all the way out to the end of the barrel. Whether you prefer this to a zoom ring closer to the camera is a matter of personal preference, of course, but in our brief time with the lens, we found the zoom ring to be just a bit too narrow.

Autofocus speed is perhaps not quite as snappy as Nikon’s 70-200mm F4 offering, but should be plenty fast enough for shooting moving subjects.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

The 70-210mm F4 comes with Tamron’s Vibration Compensation system, offering a claimed four stops of stabilization (per CIPA). If you’re working on a tripod or just happen to have the world’s steadiest hands, the stabilization system can be disabled via a switch on the side. An autofocus / manual focus switch rounds out the lens’ external controls.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

The Tamron 70-210 F4 has a 67mm front filter thread size, as well as a fluorine coating on the front element to better repel water and resist fingerprints.

Including the coated front element, the 70-210mm’s optical construction comprises 20 elements in 14 groups. Three of those elements are low-dispersion, helping to combat axial and transverse chromatic aberration.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

Tamron’s 70-210mm F4 is weather-resistant, with a visible gasket on the rear of the lens and a bevy of additional gaskets at other ‘critical areas.’ Obviously it’s not meant to be submersible, but it should stand up to some light rain in a pinch.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

The included bayonet-style petal hood adds a good bit of length to the 70-210mm F4, but its depth should provide decent flare protection in bright shooting conditions. Tamron is offering a tripod ring as well, but it’s an optional extra.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with the Tamron 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD

If 210mm isn’t quite enough reach for you, the lens is compatible with both Tamron’s 1.4X and 2.0X teleconverters, as well as the TAP-In console for focus calibration.

The Tamron 70-210mm Di VC USD will be available in Nikon and Canon mounts this April for an MSRP of $ 800.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

03 Mar

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

Tokina released two lenses in advance of the CP+ 2018 show in Yokohama, and we had a chance to stop by their booth and get a closer look. First up is a premium 50mm F1.4 prime, the first in a new series of ‘Opera’ lenses designed for high performance on DSLR cameras.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

As you can see, the 50mm F1.4 is fairly large. The build quality is extremely solid, fit and finish is excellent and the focus ring is nicely damped.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

This new lens is just a prototype, and we unfortunately weren’t given any information on the lens’ optical construction or pricing. But the press release does state that the new lens lineup’s name, ‘Opera,’ was chosen because the company hopes to help photographers create photographic works of art.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

The 50mm F1.4 Opera features a degree of weather-sealing, including a gasket around the lens mount to help prevent dust and moisture incursion. It’s slated to be available in European and Asian markets in the summer of 2018.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

The E-Mount FíRIN 20mm F2 FE AF is a different beast altogether. Designed for mirrorless cameras, the 20mm F2 AF is a followup to Tokina’s existing manual focus lens of the same specification.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

Those specifications include 13 lens elements in 11 groups; three of those elements are Super-low Dispersion, and two are aspherical. Despite this, the FíRIN remains compact and lightweight, with a heft of 464 grams. Unfortunately for those that enjoy manual focus, there is no distance scale.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

The front of the lens accommodates a bayonet-style hood and 62mm filters. The 20mm F2 AF has a nine-bladed aperture diaphragm, and the closest focus distance is 0.28m or 0.9 feet.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Tokina’s 50mm F1.4 and 20mm F2

It’s best to take care when using this lens in inclement weather, as there is no rear gasket nor claims of weather or moisture sealing. Despite this, the FíRIN 20mm F2 looks very promising.

The lens will tentatively be available in Japan by the end of April and the rest of the world in May. Pricing information has yet to be announced.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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ImageBrief is shutting down, users have one week to save their images

03 Mar

Photo licensing service ImageBrief, which was founded in 2011, is officially shutting down. The news was announced over email, in which ImageBrief notified current users of the close, and told them they have one week to download their images before the site’s servers are wiped.

During its six years in the licensing industry, the company offered customers a different way to get the images they need: rather than searching a pre-defined library, companies could submit on-demand “briefs” detailing the work needed, which photographers responded to in hopes of having their images purchased. This was a big change over how traditional stock photography agencies operate—and one that has been picked up by other companies over time—but the model doesn’t seem to have worked out in the long run.

ImageBrief users were surprised by the closure announcement, which was delivered in the form of an email earlier this week. The statement, which says ImageBrief connected more than 70,000 creators with clients from around the world, fails to provide a reason for the company’s demise. It does, however, advise photographers who participated in project briefs that they must download their account assets within the week, after which point the content will be deleted.

The full email reads:

Today, we’re announcing that after six years of connecting agencies, brands and creators, we will be closing down ImageBrief’s photographer marketing services

We’re proud of the products and apps we built, but even more so, we’re grateful for the community that enabled them to grow. More than 70,000 creators earned millions of dollars collaborating with 12,500+ global agencies and brands in 169 countries.

There has never been a better time for creators to thrive. Demand for content has increased, and the tools to create world-class creative are more accessible than ever.

Our talented team of engineers, designers, developers, and curators have worked tirelessly to make ImageBrief a success in a competitive and rapidly evolving landscape, and our immediate priority is to help you transition to other services to support your business.

In the coming days, our team will be in contact with you directly with detailed information about your specific account, license history, and services. Over the next week, we recommend logging into ImageBrief to download and retain your license history and related assets. […]

We want to thank you for your participation and loyalty, and look forward to working with you in the coming weeks to ensure a smooth transition.

Sincerely,

Team ImageBrief

As of this morning, all of ImageBrief’s social media pages have been deleted. And the homepage has been pared down into a simple log in page for buyers and photographers, with no mention of the closure.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

03 Mar

CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

Nikon has a long history of making cameras for use in outer space. A small exhibition at this year’s CP+ show in Yokohama showcases some of the company’s most famous models.

First up is a Nikon Photomic FTN, adapted for use on the Apollo 15 mission to the moon. Although it looks much like a conventional FTN, this modified version features a thicker body shell, NASA-standard insulation in the battery chamber (electrical fires in space are no joke) and larger, easier to grip controls.

CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

The ‘horns’ on the lens enable the main controls to be manipulated easily when wearing thick gloves. Notice also the lack of a leatherette covering on the camera body. The modified FTN also featured internal changes to accommodate the thinner, polyester-based films used for specialist missions.

CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

This is another heavily modified F, without a viewfinder. This camera is similar to motordrive-equipped models supplied to NASA for the 1973 Skylab missions. The fatter, easier to grip controls are obvious in this view.

CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

The Nikon F was a relatively old camera by the time it was used on the Skylab missions, but NASA didn’t supply any modified F2 bodies – instead jumping straight to the F3 in the early 80s.

This is a ‘small’ F3, with a modified motordrive and high-magnification finder, supplied to astronauts on early space shuttle missions. Compared to the the earlier (and hugely costly) F/FTN conversions, the F3 cameras that Nikon supplied to NASA were much more similar to the standard models available for sale to the general public.

CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

This is the ‘big’ F3, also used on space shuttle missions in the 1980s. The bulk film magazine could hold enough film for 250 images before it needed to be reloaded. On earth, this looks like it would be one heavy camera to carry around, but of course that’s less of an issue in zero gravity.

CP+ 2018: Nikon’s space cameras

Skipping forward to (almost) the present day, this is a Nikon D4, shrouded in a special EVA cover – a thermal blanket, designed to protect the camera from the extreme temperature variations experienced during spacewalks. Made from mylar, kevlar, aluminum and no doubt plenty of other advanced materials, each EVA cover reportedly costs around $ 20,000.

To the right of the EVA cover is a D5 – the next camera destined for use in space, by astronauts on the International Space Station.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Laowa ‘Magic Shift Converter’

03 Mar

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Laowa ‘Magic Shift Converter’

Venus Optics has been making some very interesting lenses in the past couple of years. and at this year’s CP+ show the company is showing off an innovative ‘magic shift converter’, first announced last summer.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Laowa ‘Magic Shift Converter’

The magic shift converter fulfills two purposes. It acts as an adapter to allow a Canon or Nikon-mount Laowa 12mm F2.8 Zero-D prime to be used on a full-frame Sony camera, but it also enables a shift movement, to correct for converging verticals.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Laowa ‘Magic Shift Converter’

Here’s a 12mm F2.8, coupled with the shift converter, with the movement fully shifted. In this position, a photographer would be able to mitigate the common problem of converging vertical lines in architectural and interior shots.

When used with the converter, the 12mm F2.8 becomes a 17mm equivalent, F4.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Laowa ‘Magic Shift Converter’

The mechanism can be rotated, allowing you to shift +/-10mm in both X and Y axes, without vignetting.

CP+ 2018: Hands-on with Laowa ‘Magic Shift Converter’

Unlike a simple mount adapter, the shift converter contains five glass elements arranged in four groups, including two extra low refraction elements. According to the manufacturer, using the adapter has a minimal effect on image quality, and the 12mm should retain its ‘zero distortion’ characteristics.

For around $ 300, the Magic Shift Converter is a relatively low-cost upgrade to the 12mm F2.8. zero-D wideangle prime. Despite its relatively low price, build quality is impressively high. What do you think?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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