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Archive for February, 2018

PolarPro unveils collection of filters and accessories for the DJI Mavic Air

01 Feb

Accessories manufacturer PolarPro has introduced new versions of its Cinema filter series for those ordering the DJI Mavic Air drone. The filters are designed to give photographers control over the shutter speed of their footage, as well as polarizing reflected light to improve color saturation.

The company has also announced it will make two cases for the drone, as well as a customizable mount for filming with the drone hand-held.

Filters

Users will be able to choose from a pack of ND filters in ND4, ND8 and ND16 strengths, or to have the filters combined with a polarizer to intensify color as well as reduce the amount of light reaching the lens.

For especially bright conditions a further pack of NDs is available in ND32 and ND64 strengths both with and without a polarizer.

The filter packs will cost $ 80 for the three-packs of ND and ND/PL units, and $ 150 for all six together. The Limited Collection of extra dense filters will be $ 100. For more details see the PolarPro website.

Cases

Both cases on offer have soft exteriors, with the Minimalist ($ 30) designed to be as compact as possible, and the Rugged ($ 50) designed to provide the most protection.

DJI Mavic Air Soft Case – Rugged DJI Mavic Air Soft Case – Minimalist

Katana ‘Tray’ System

Finally, the Katana Pro Tray system allows used to clamp the Mavic Air into a set of handles so that it can be used to film at ground level and in places where drones aren’t allowed to fly. Depending on your preferred filming orientation, you can go with the standard DJI Mavic Air Tray ($ 50) or purchase the Air Tray/T-Grip Combo ($ 80) for one-handed operation and low-angle camera control.

DJI Mavic Air Tray DJI Mavic Air Tray/T-Grip Combo

To learn more about these products or pick any of them up for yourself now that the DJI Mavic Air is officially shipping, head over to the PolarPro shop to browse the entire PolarPro Mavic Air collection.

Press Release

PolarPro Announces Lens Filters and Cinematic Accessories for New DJI® Mavic Air

Consumers placing orders for the newly-release DJI Mavic Air can now preorder the PolarPro accessories to take their aerial filmmaking to the next level.

Costa Mesa, C.A. – January 30, 2018 – PolarPro, developer of products inspired by adventure, announced today it is opening preorders for its newly designed line of cinematic lens filters and purpose-built accessories for the DJI® Mavic Air. Known for producing some of the industry’s highest quality lens filters for pilots looking to maximize the cinematic aspects of their drone video, PolarPro is now offering polarized, neutral density and UV filters to help Mavic Air pilots improve overall color saturation and control shutter speed. Additionally, PolarPro’s Mavic Air line includes landing gear, handheld mounts for shooting from the ground and other workflow-streamlining accessories that have been adapted to DJI’s latest drone model. PolarPro anticipates preorders will begin to ship by early February 2018, and the full list of offerings for the Mavic Air can be found here: https://www.polarprofilters.com/collections/dji-mavic-air-filters-and-accessories.

“The new generation of consumer drones from manufacturers like DJI become more advanced every day, and though their native video capabilities are great, anyone who is looking to create videos with more cinematic qualities needs some specific tools to achieve that particular look,” said Austen Butler, VP and Co-Founder of PolarPro. “Our lineup of Mavic Air accessories includes a newly designed line of lens filters to help content creators capture the best possible footage of their adventures that stand out from the rest. We also have custom protective cases to keep their sensitive gear safe on the way to the shoot, and other camera solutions to help streamline their capture process while on location.”

PolarPro Mavic Air Lens Filters

For any drone pilot looking to ensure the best possible quality from their aerial video, no accessory is more important than a set of high quality lens filters. PolarPro offers a series of Mavic Air Filter Packs which include combinations of commonly used polarizing lenses (PL) for enhancing color saturation, UV filters for reducing haze and glare, as well as a substantial lineup of all-important neutral density (ND) filters and hybrid polarizing/ND filters for slowing shutter speeds to achieve cinematic looks.

PolarPro uses lightweight yet durable AirFrame Aluminum, producing filters that weigh just .59 grams. Combined with industry-leading HD glass and coatings for razor sharp clarity, PolarPro filters work seamlessly with the Mavic Air camera gimbal for uninhibited performance.

All PolarPro lens filters are produced in Standard Series (three pack and six pack options available) and Cinema Series (detailed below). Cinema Series filters feature production grade multi-coated glass for pilots who demand the best. PolarPro Mavic Air filters collections include:

Cinema Series Shutter Collection ($ 79.99): For controlling shutter speeds, includes straight ND4, ND8, and ND16 filters

Cinema Series Vivid Collection ($ 79.99): For controlling shutter speeds and boosting saturation, includes hybrid ND4/PL, ND8/PL, and ND16/PL filters

PolarPro Mavic Air Six Pack ($ 149.99): Combines the Shutter and Vivid collection in a single bundle

Cinema Series Limited Collection ($ 99.99): For bright light conditions, includes ND32, ND32/PL, ND64, ND64/PL filters

For more information on which PolarPro filters will fit particular pilot needs, please refer to PolarPro’s Filter Guide for the Mavic Air: https://press.polarprofilters.com/dji_mavic_air_filters/

PolarPro DJI Mavic Air Cases

With some expensive and delicate components, the Mavic Air needs to be properly protected when traveling to shooting locations or stored away in-between shoots. PolarPro has designed two Mavic Air Cases to suit the needs of most users.

Minimalist Edition ($ 29.99): This custom molded soft-shell case takes up the least amount of space in a pack. Featuring customizable dividers, the Minimalist Edition has space for the Mavic Air, three extra batteries, remote, charger, charging hub and filters.

Rugged Edition ($ 49.99): Designed with a laser cut foam insert to act as a shock absorber, the Rugged Edition snugly holds the Mavic Air, four extra batteries, remote, charger, charging hub, filters and cables. A removable shoulder strap is included for added carrying configurations.

Hand-Held PolarPro Katana Tray

The Katana Mavic Air Tray ($ 49.99), and even more dynamic Mavic Air Katana Pro($ 79.99) are essentially force multipliers for the UAV. The drone’s compact size and high-quality imaging capabilities make it a great filming platform for just about any situation, and with a little help from the PolarPro Katana it can become a powerful handheld shooting camera as well. Ideal for capturing ground-based footage, the Katana allows pilots to still shoot in no-fly zones such as national parks where drones are banned. The Katana Tray is crafted from durable glass-filled nylon and features two sturdy grips on either side of the clamping mount that holds the drone securely in position. The Katana Pro also features a T-Grip enabling one-handed and low angle camera control. Each version includes an integrated smartphone mount that lets users utilize the drone’s companion app for framing and camera controls.

For more information about these and other new PolarPro solutions for the Mavic Air, including individual anticipated ship dates, please visit: https://www.polarprofilters.com/collections/dji-mavic-air-filters-and-accessories.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Eight tips for photographing your first hot air balloon festival

01 Feb

This article was originally published on Elliot Nahm’s website, and is being republished in full here on DPReview with express permission from Elliot.


Ah, you’ve just received your first camera over the holiday season, and you’re itching to use it. Or, perhaps you’re just looking for something new to photograph this year. Well, allow me to make a suggestion: You should go photograph a hot air balloon festival!

Why hot air balloons? I personally enjoy their vibrant colors against the sky; it’s a pleasure for me to meet the pilots, and their crew; and, last but certainly not least, it’s fun to fly in them!

Some of you may be surprised that these festivals have already been happening in the winter. It should come as no surprise, though, that the number of events ramp up as the weather gets warmer. Check out www.hotairballoon.com for information of any events near you.

To be frank, I’m no master of photography, and there are bigger names photographing hot air balloons. However, these tips should still help make your first hot air balloon festival a more photographically enjoyable experience.

Note: these tips apply more for festivals based in the United States. I understand that other countries do some things differently, but many of the tips should still apply.

More days, better chances

I’m going to start with the most important tip of all. Try attending as many days as possible for the best chances of getting great photos. Hot air balloon festivals typically happen for at least two days, usually over a weekend. Larger events can span the entire week. Understandably, this can be difficult to budget time for, but the time isn’t just for photos, it’s also to account for weather.

To many peoples’ dismay, hot air balloons cannot just fly whenever. High winds, rain, smoke, etc. can all prevent mass ascensions (many balloons flying together), and balloon glows (balloons glowing at night) from occurring. Balloon festivals play it very safe, and generally do not fly if winds are above 8 miles per hour (12.9 kph). You may be at an event that only flies once out of their allotted days.

I personally was at the Lake Havasu Balloon Festival & Fair this year when high winds canceled all six flights. Weather happens, and the more days you have, the better your chances of a successful day.

Get close

This tip is in almost every type of photography guide out there, and it still applies to balloons. Get close! I’ve seen so many people stand way out on the edge of the field using their cameras at the widest focal length possible. Then they pull out their smartphones, and take the same picture. C’mon, folks, you’ve already put so much money into a camera, why use it in the same pedestrian way as you would with your smartphone?

Get onto that field and get closer to the action.

Photograph the pilots, and the crew. Capture the detail in the balloon fabric. Witness the shadows from inside of the balloons. Do something more than just being an observer. Wide shots from the edge of the field have their place, but recognize that many other people already have that angle covered.

While being up close, be courteous, and follow pilot and crew instructions. I will list some DO NOTs that you need to heed:

  • Do not step on the balloon fabric. Just play it safe, and don’t touch the balloon.
  • Do not smoke by the balloons. There have been many cases of carelessly tossed cigarettes burning holes into the fabric.
  • Do not bring pets near the balloons. There have been many cases of claws tearing the fabric.
  • Do not stand on, or cross, laying ropes. Always go around.
  • Do not peek inside of the balloon without asking crew and pilot permission first. You may be getting in the way.
  • Do not get in the way of the crew.
  • Do not stand right behind the basket when the pilot starts shooting flames. You will get crushed.
  • Do not be in the flight path during take off. Flight directors, or crew, will try to clear the area—follow their instructions.

I empathize that a list of DO NOTs doesn’t give much credence that this is a fun subject to photograph. This is all about safety though, and we should all take safety seriously.

Note: some festivals actually fence observers off from the field. In that case, you need to start planning, and the next tips can help with that.

Find a prominent feature

Is there a body of water, or some cliffs near the launch field? If so, you want to keep an eye on balloons approaching those areas. Many pilots aim for these features, and you can get some of the best shots at these locations.

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At bodies of water, balloonists like to perform a “splash-and-dash” in which the pilot will touch the basket to the surface of the water, and just float there. This provides a great chance for you to get a reflection of the balloon on the water.

For cliffs, pilots like to hang around them, and just go up and down them. If a balloon has a seated pilot instead of a basket, you may find the pilot “running” along the face of the cliff. Pilots also like to fly close to the tree line, or land onto hay stacks to flex their skills. So you may find an amusing moment even if there are no significant land features.

Larger balloon festivals have flight directors. These people give the pilots the “okay” before taking off. You’ll often find these flight directors wearing a uniform that stands out. Taking a photo of them can provide great contrast to the balloons.

Attend the pilot meeting

As a photographer, understanding the conditions the pilots are flying in can help for planning where you want to be. During this meeting, someone will release the “pibal” (pronounced ‘pie-ball’; short for pilot balloon). It’s just a typical party balloon, but it’s a great indicator for how the winds above are behaving.

If, for example, the winds are blowing south, take a note of what’s down there and find a place where you want to be. This information is especially useful if you plan on taking photos away from the launch field. If the mass ascension is canceled… well… go enjoy your breakfast at the nearby Denny’s before everyone else floods it.

The pilot meeting is also a good place to find the opportunity to crew for a balloon which is conveniently the next tip.

Crew for a balloon, and get free flights

Volunteer to crew for a balloon, and you may just have a chance to get a free flight out of it. Commercial flights can cost anywhere from $ 180 USD to $ 450 USD, so if you can fly for free, you had better take that opportunity. Understand, though, that crewing does not always guarantee a flight. Sometimes the pilot will already have paying passengers, and you may never fly. Still, your chances are pretty decent, and a chance to fly for free is definitely better than none.

While crewing, consider having your camera on a sling so that you can use both hands freely to do your duties. If you spot a moment, take a quick snap of it, and continue your crewing. While pilots are grateful for the help, they won’t sign you on again if you don’t do what is asked of you.

Another incentive for crewing is free food. Many festivals cater a few meals for pilots and crew. Pilots often have tailgate parties as well. If you earn your pilot’s trust, you’ll likely be invited to these. Saving money is always good, right?

Fly!!!

Whether you pay for a flight or you get it for free by crewing, flying is always a great place to be for taking pictures. Flying in a hot air balloon is quite the different experience in contrast to helicopters or fixed wing aircraft. Because the balloon moves with the wind, you too are moving with the wind, so you don’t really feel it at all. Some passengers find it to be a very odd sensation.

It is tempting to go wide with your shots, just don’t go too wide. In my opinion, making balloons super tiny just doesn’t look too good. Wide angle lens distortion is heavily pronounced on the balloons on the edges, and sometimes the simple lens profile fix isn’t enough to correct it. If the pilot allows for it, bring a telephoto lens as well when you go up.

Note: weight is an issue for ballooning. Sometimes pilots won’t accept a camera bag, or second lens on board to keep things as light as possible. Also, having extra objects in the basket can be a hazard.

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Attend the balloon glow

Although I greatly prefer the mass ascensions, balloon glows are still necessary to having the full experience. You may find photographing the balloon glows more difficult however.

Wide aperture glass is highly recommended, and higher ISO is required. You can attempt to use a long shutter time but, if there’s any breeze, you will have blurry balloons. I personally don’t like to cranking up the ISO so, I get close to the light sources (the balloon burners), and use ISO 1600 or less. I also greatly prefer the colors of the balloons during the day than the glow.

And go again…

If you ever want the best photos of anything, you must keep revisiting it. Sometimes we can get lucky with getting a grand slam of a photo on the first try. Between you, and I though, that rarely happens. If you enjoyed your first balloon festival, go to another one, and another one, and then the same festival again the near year.

Check out www.hotairballoon.com for finding out festival information around the world. It’s by far the best resource I’ve come across, and I believe that you too will find it useful.

Whew, what a read, right? Since you’ve made it to the end, congratulations, I guess. For more examples of balloon photos, you can check out my portfolio, Instagram, and my other blog posts. I hope that you find these tips useful, and take fantastic photos at your first balloon festival!


Elliot Nahm is a Denver, CO-based photographer whose ambition is to be able to travel the world, camera in tow. His two great photographic passions are hot air balloons, and the outdoors. You can see more from Elliot on his website, Instagram, and YouTube channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Aperture Versus Shutter Priority – Which Shooting Mode to Use and When

01 Feb

I too was once a beginner and I completely understand that how difficult it is to move into using Manual Mode directly from shooting Automatic. Thankfully camera manufacturers have also thoughtfully provided us with Aperture and Shutter Priority modes. These two camera shooting modes are possibly the best ways you can understand the nature and role of aperture and shutter speed.

Aperture and Shutter Priority are semi-automatic, or we can call them semi-manual camera modes. These two modes can help you get away from the fully automatic modes (P, Auto) and at the same time get you a step closer to using Manual Mode.

What is Aperture Priority Mode?

The Aperture Priority shooting mode allows you to take control of the aperture, whereas the shutter speed and ISO (if you are set on Auto-ISO) are still controlled by your camera. This means that you can adjust the amount of light entering into the camera through the lens. So using Aperture Priority you can set the aperture value as per your need and control the depth of field.

Aperture Versus Shutter Priority - Which Shooting Mode to Use and When

Unlike the automatic modes, this mode gives you the freedom to adjust the aperture value and set the amount of blur effect that you want in your photo.

When should you use the Aperture Priority Mode?

As we discussed, Aperture Priority mode allows you to control the aperture value, which ultimately affects the depth of field. This shooting mode is ideal if you wish to adjust the depth of field as per your desire, whereas leaving the shutter speed and ISO value selection up to the camera.

Situation 1: Portraits

While taking portrait or close-up shots, I am sure you would want to keep the subject in focus and blur out the background by choosing a large aperture (small aperture value). Using Aperture Priority Mode you can manually choose the required aperture value such as f/1.8 or f/2.8 to achieve a shallow depth of field.

Aperture Versus Shutter Priority - Which Shooting Mode to Use and When

Situation 2: Landscapes

While shooting landscapes or cityscapes, you might want to have both the foreground and the background very much in focus. This is only possible if you manually choose a small aperture (high aperture value). Aperture Priority Mode gives you the freedom to select desired aperture value such as f/16 or f/22 to get deep depth of field, while your camera takes care of the shutter speed and ISO value.

Situation 3: Low lighting

Suppose you are in a dim lighting condition and your photos are coming out underexposed. By increasing the size of the aperture opening (selecting a smaller aperture value like f/1.8), you can allow more light into the camera and capture a better-exposed photo. Read: 6 Tips for Getting Consistent Results Shooting in Low Light

Situation 4: Midday bright sunlight

If you are shooting in broad daylight and are getting overexposed photos while shooting in automatic mode, you can close the aperture opening. This means that by using a higher aperture number (like f/16), you can minimize the amount of light entering the camera through the lens.

Aperture Versus Shutter Priority - Which Shooting Mode to Use and When

What is Shutter Priority Mode?

As the name suggests, Shutter Priority mode allows you to take charge of the shutter speed. Just to brainstorm, shutter speed is the duration for which the camera shutter remains open for the light to enter the camera and ht the sensor. The slower the shutter speed is set on the camera, the more the light is received by the image sensor. Similarly, the faster the shutter speed the less light would hit the image sensor.

Aperture Versus Shutter Priority - Which shooting Mode to Use and When

While you are shooting in Shutter Priority mode, you have the freedom to adjust the shutter speed as per your requirement while the camera chooses the aperture and ISO value on its own.

When should you use Shutter Priority Mode?

As we just discussed, if you want to take full control of the shutter speed and experiment with your camera then this is the ideal camera mode. Let’s look at two situations when you are most likely to shoot in Shutter Priority mode.

Situation 1: Freeze a moving subject

If you want to freeze a fast moving bird, animal, or car in your photo, using Shutter Priority mode will allow you to do so by setting a fast shutter speed. A shutter speed of anything faster than 1/500th of a second is considered ideal for freezing an object, but this may vary depending on the speed of the subject. Your camera will judge the required aperture and ISO values as per the available light.

Situation 2: Showing movement

If you are out and planning to capture star trails, light trails, or blue hour photos, you would have to select a slow shutter speed so that the subject’s movement is well captured in the single photo. To capture long exposure photos, you must carry a tripod along to avoid any kind of shake.

Aperture Versus Shutter Priority - Which shooting Mode to Use and When

Situation 3: Dim lighting

If you are in dim lighting conditions you might get underexposed photos while shooting in automatic mode. By simply reducing the shutter speed (e.g. from 1/200th to 1/50th), you can allow more light into the camera and capture a well-exposed photo.

Note: Watch out for the shutter speed going too slow as to introduce camera shake into your image;

Situation 4: Broad daylight

Let’s suppose you are shooting in broad daylight and your camera is capturing overexposed photos while shooting in automatic mode. Here you can increase the shutter speed. This means that by using a faster shutter speed (e.g. from 1/200thh 1/1000th), you can minimize the amount of light entering the camera sensor.

Aperture Versus Shutter Priority - Which shooting Mode to Use and When

Conclusion

Using Aperture and Shutter Priority camera modes enables you to get familiar with how the lens’s aperture and the camera shutter works. These modes ensure that you get well-exposed photos with your desired selection of aperture value or shutter speed, unlike automatic mode (where the camera makes all the choices for you).

So if your utmost priority is to manually choose the desired aperture value in order to get a particular depth of field, then you must shoot in Aperture Priority Mode. Otherwise, if your priority is to choose a specific shutter speed to capture something creative with the available light (freeze or blur motion), then you must go with Shutter Priority camera mode.

The post Aperture Versus Shutter Priority – Which Shooting Mode to Use and When by Kunal Malhotra appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Kodak says over 40,000 investors are interested in its cryptocurrency

01 Feb

In a statement released today, Kodak said more than 40,000 potential investors are interested in the company’s recently announced KODAKCoin Initial Coin Offering (ICO). The cryptocurrency was introduced in early January alongside the company’s new KODAKOne blockchain-based image rights platform for photographers.

Of course, it’s not really Kodak’s cryptocurrency, just cryptocurrency with the Kodak name attached, but you can read about all that below before moving on.

Ready to move on? Okay.

The company explains that it is beginning an “accredited investor” phase for KODAKCoin that will verify the status of the investors who have expressed interest in Kodak’s cryptocurrency. This won’t be a rapid process, though, and Kodak expects the verification phase to take several weeks.

The company explains that an accredited investor status is dependent on the potential investor’s income, requiring an individual or couple to have a net worth greater than $ 1 million or requiring a minimum 2-year history of income exceeding $ 200k a year ($ 300k for couples). The ICO will also be available to “select non-US persons.”

In short: if you thought (or hoped) this whole Kodak Cryptocurrency thing was just a marketing stunt to help juice the stock and get people talking, it doesn’t look that way.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: The ultimate Godox studio flash guide

01 Feb

If you are confused by the massive range of flash heads produced by Chinese manufacturer Godox, you’re in luck. Professional photographer Robert Hall has produced a very useful video that aims to explain the differences (and similarities) between them all.

In the video, Hall goes through the functions of five ranges of heads, points out who they are designed for, and then talks about each of the 17 models Godox produces in all, covering the features each of the heads do and don’t have. He includes an amazing amount of detail and specification, making clear what you get with each model. He even provides a spreadsheet that lists prices, output, recycle times and flash duration, as well as other features and physical characteristics.

The video has information on the DP, SK, QS, GS and QT studio and portable heads, and if you can’t take all the information in quickly enough Hall has written a lot of it in the video’s description.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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