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Archive for January, 2018

Google Clips smart camera will launch soon, appears in FCC documents

20 Jan

During its October 2017 event, Google surprised the camera world by introducing a small AI-powered lifelogging camera named Google Clips. And now, thanks to some uncovered FCC documents, it looks like we’re getting close to an official release date.

Google Clips is an interesting concept. Unlike other cameras that require a bit of input from the user, Google said Clips could analyze situations and automatically capture memorable moments, growing smarter over time—just place it on a shelf and it would ‘learn’ to capture your most important moments as they unfolded. Several months later, however, we still haven’t heard anything from Google about a release date. We know it’ll cost $ 250 USD when it launches, and the Google Clips product page offers prospective buyers the option to join a waitlist, but Google hasn’t revealed anything more.

That’s where the eagle-eyed folks at Variety come in. Earlier this week, they noticed that the camera recently passed through the FCC, indicating that a launch is imminent. In other words: if you’re holding out for the Google Clips, your wait is almost over.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Black Background

20 Jan

This week I have something a little different for you for the challenge – shooting on a black or dark background.

Photo by Daniele Levis Pelusi on Unsplash

Weekly Photography Challenge – Black Background

The idea here is to create something dramatic. Make sure you choose lighting that will help separate the subject from the dark background. That could be backlight, rim light, or side lighting – choose the direction of light carefully.

If you need some help try these dPS articles:

  • How to Create Dark Moody Low-Key Portraits with Minimal Gear
  • Low-Key Photography – Highlighting Darkness
  • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
  • How to Make a Low Key Portrait Step by Step
KAren Woman Smoking Her Pipe against a black background

Image by dPS writer Kevin Landwer-Johan

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Black Background by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Tips for Selecting and Doing a Successful Photography Project

19 Jan

If you find yourself stuck in a rut, can’t find anything to shoot, or just need to get shooting – here are some videos to help you select an idea and get started doing a personal photography project.

The importance of doing a photography project

Photographer Matt Day talks about the importance of doing a personal photography project and gives you some ideas and direction to get started in this video.

5 Reasons why you should do a photography project

Adam from First Man Photography has five good reasons why you should start a photography project:

    1. Find direction – break out of a rut.
    2. Improve your photography.
    3. Build a social media following.
    4. Challenge yourself – get out of your comfort zone.
    5. It’s fun!

The most important ASPECT of doing a photography project

In this short video, COOPH founder Ulrich Grill shows you five things you need for a successful photo shoot or project. They follow the acronym A.S.P.E.C.T. – can you guess what they are? If not, go ahead and watch the video now.

  • A – atmosphere
  • S – shadows
  • P – positioning
  • E – energy
  • C – contrast
  • T – timing

Still need some help starting a photography project? Try these dPS articles for more tips.

  • 12 Creative Photography Project Ideas to Get You Motivated
  • How to do a Photography Alphabet Project
  • Tips for Doing a Successful Picture-a-Day Photography Project
  • How to Start and Finish a Photography Project
  • 6 Tips for How to Build a Story and Shoot a Photo Project
  • Tips for Creating a Personal Photography Project

The post Tips for Selecting and Doing a Successful Photography Project by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Panasonic DC-GH5S added to buying guides

19 Jan

Now that we’ve spent some time with Panasonic’s video-centric Lumix DC-GH5S, we’ve added it to our ‘Best Cameras for Video’ and ‘Best Cameras over $ 2000’ buying guides. When our review of the GH5S is complete – and if we think it’s the best camera in one or both of those groups – the guides will be updated again.

Read our Best Cameras for Video
buying guide

Read our Best Cameras
over $ 2000 buying guide

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tether Tools unveils TetherPro line of USB-C cables

19 Jan

Tether Tools, a manufacturer of wired and wireless equipment for camera tethering, has introduced its line of TetherPro USB-C cables for photographers shooting tethered with cameras or computers that feature a USB-C connection.

With faster data-transfer rates and the ability to insert connectors in any direction, USB-C is a great improvement over previous versions of the USB-standard. However, the variety of existing cables and connectors means that photographers using USB-C cameras or laptops often have to revert to using adapters, hubs or dongles to connect devices.

The TetherPro line has been designed to eliminate the need for all those adapter solutions. It features 12 cables, all available in either black or orange and purely intended for data transfer—meaning they are not suitable for powering USB-C devices. Tether Tools says its cables are constructed to the highest possible USB specifications, allowing for fast and reliable data transfer.

“Our goal is to provide photographers with the optimal cable to meet their unique needs for tethered photography, without the use of dongles, whether they have a USB-C port on their camera, computer, or both,” said Josh Simons, Tether Tools CEO. “We’ve worked diligently to optimize the performance and are excited to bring TetherPro USB-C cables to the market after extensive development and testing.”

The line includes USB-C to USB-C versions and USB-C to USB-A cables for those using USB-C Cameras, such as the Hasselblad H6 or X series, Panasonic GH5 or Sony a7R III. There are also TetherPro USB-C cables for photographers using USB-C computers with USB 2.0 or 3.0 cameras. And if you’d like a longer cable, the 15-foot USB-C to USB-A adapter might be worth a closer look.

All of the cables all retail for between $ 25 and $ 57 depending on configuration and length. For more information or specific pricing, visit the Tether Tools website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Watch a YouTuber disassemble his Canon 1D X Mark II to see what’s inside

19 Jan

Photographer and filmmaker Peter McKinnon’s Canon 1DX Mark II recently took a tumble while he was out on an ATV ride. But rather than let this obviously traumatic experience scar him, he decided to use it as an opportunity. Before sending his camera to Canon for repair, he decided to disassembled the $ 6,000 DSLR himself… on video.

The teardown takes viewers through the careful process of removing the camera’s front and back, something McKinnon at one point describes as potentially “the dumbest thing I’ve ever done.” Not to put too fine a point on it, because we like Peter, but we totally agree with him.

Fortunately, everything ultimately ends well. McKinnon successfully disassembles and then reassembles the 1DX Mark II before sending it to Canon for repair. The camera maker even provided McKinnon with a loaner unit to use while his own camera was in the shop.

It’s a neat video that gives you a peek inside the very expensive and advanced DSLR, but we definitely don’t suggest you ever try this at home. As McKinnon notes in the video, disassembling a camera like this voids whatever warranties are covering it. In other words, if you’re curious to see what’s inside, watch this video… don’t try it yourself.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Meike’s new battery grip for the Sony a9 and a7R lll comes with a wireless remote

19 Jan

Accessories manufacturer Meike has released details of a new grip it will be selling for the Sony a9 and a7R lll bodies that can hold two batteries and double as a remote control.

The Meike MK-A9 Pro Battery Grip is designed to make vertical shooting more comfortable, and comes fitted with a shutter release, two custom buttons, an AF button, a joystick and two control wheels as well as its own on/off button. In addition though, the grip functions as a wireless radio remote receiver when it’s used with the remote controller that comes with the kit.

Operating on 2.4GHz radio signals, the grip can be instructed from a distance of up to 100m, and offers functions beyond simple triggering. The unit can also work as a timer, an intervalometer, and as a Bulb trigger for extended exposures.

The grip comes with a two-battery insert, but not the batteries themselves. It will begin shipping on January 31st, and will cost £95/$ 120 on Amazon. For more information, see the Meike website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

19 Jan

Blue hour, especially the one in the evening (yes it happens before sunrise too!), is probably the most popular time of day to take cityscape photography with dazzling city lights illuminated. But exactly when is the prime time of blue hour that could result in you getting the best possible shots?

Singapore - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

Singapore skyline at blue hour.

Hong Kong - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

Hong Kong skyline at blue hour.

Blue Hour Photography Requires a Tripod

One note before we get started. Although you could shoot handheld at blue hour by bumping the ISO up, it’s always advisable to use a tripod in order to shoot clean (noise-free) photos with low ISO (e.g. 100). It also comes with an added bonus of letting you do long exposure photography with smoothed-out water, etc.

For your information, sample photos shown in this post are all shot using my trusty Manfrotto MT190CXPRO3 carbon-fibre tripod.

Tripod - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

Setting a tripod up and getting ready for blue hour.

Finding out Your Local Sunset and Dusk Time

Let’s get down to business. In terms of timeline, SUNSET comes first, followed by DUSK 20+ minutes later. The time between sunset and dusk is called TWILIGHT, and NIGHT falls once dusk is over.

To find out your local sunset and dusk time, simply go to timeanddate.com and search for your city (e.g. sunset and dusk time in Singapore on January 26th, 2018 will be 19:18 and 19:40 respectively). Or alternatively, search Google using “dusk date city” format (e.g. dusk January 24th, 2018 Singapore). Then, Google returns a dusk time even before the first result. Checking a dusk time has become a second nature to me whenever I’m shooting at blue hour, locally as well as traveling abroad on holidays.

Note: Apps like PhotoPills are also really helpful for planning shooting times and figuring out the sunrise, sunset and dusk times daily in any location worldwide.

Timeline - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

Sunset to dusk in timeline. Towards the end of dusk is the best time to shoot blue hour photos with beautiful bluish hue in the sky.

Aim for Shooting the Last 10 Minutes of Dusk

In this 20 or so minutes between sunset and dusk, the first 10 minutes are still not quite “ripe”, as city buildings are not yet fully lit up, and the sky hasn’t yet taken on the beautiful bluish hue that appears towards the end of dusk. Use this time to decide on your composition, do some test shots, etc.

Singapore - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

This Singapore skyline was shot 15 minutes before the end of dusk (six minutes after sunset) at f/13, 1.6 seconds, ISO 100. The stage isn’t quite set yet, as the sky is still bright and not many of the city lights are illuminated.

When there are about 10 minutes left before dusk, more city buildings will be lit, and bluish hue starts to appear in the sky, getting deeper and deeper with every single passing minute. It’s these last 10 minutes of dusk that are undoubtedly the prime time to shoot blue hour photography.

In addition, the limited available light at blue hour allows for your shutter speed to naturally get longer, especially with the use of a small aperture. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode and use a bigger f-stop number such as f/13, which helps create smoothed-out water and rushing clouds effects (provided that you’re shooting with a tripod).

ND filter - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

A neutral density (ND) filter is an item that will enrich your blue hour photography experience and images.

Add an ND Filter

To enhance such effects, try shooting with a neutral density (ND) filter attached. ND filters help reduce the light that is coming through the lens, allowing you to use much slower shutter speeds.

For example, with a 3-stop ND filter attached, a base shutter speed of 2-seconds is extended to 15 seconds. For a greater effect, use 6-stop ND filter to extend a base shutter speed of 2-seconds to 128 seconds (just over two minutes), which gives your photo a surreal and dreamy feel that is typically seen in long exposure photography, like Marina Bay (Singapore) photo below.

Singapore - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

This Marina Bay photo was shot three minutes before the end of dusk (f/13, 135 seconds, ISO 100). The blue hour sky looks just right – not too light, not too dark, not overly vibrant. Also, an exposure of 135 seconds (with a 6-stop ND filter attached) helped create a silky smooth water effect.

Blue Hour Suddenly Ends after Dusk

Blue hour photography is sometimes mixed up with night photography, which starts once dusk is over. You might be surprised to find out that night falls almost suddenly after dusk. It doesn’t even take 10 minutes for the blue hour sky at dusk to turn into pitch-black night.

Personally, I never shoot after dusk. Photos shot after dusk tend to come out very dark and colors look muddy as there is little bluish hue left in the sky. Your photos will look considerably different if you miss this prime time of blue hour even by a mere few minutes.

Hong Kong - How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour

This Hong Kong skyline was shot 8 minutes after the end of dusk. The bluish hue in the sky quickly disappeared, and the scene turned into the dark night rather abruptly.

Conclusion

In fact, what we call blue “hour” seems to last only approximately 10 minutes towards the end of dusk (depending on where you are located relative to the equator).

Blue hour photography is quite a time-sensitive genre, as this prime time of blue hour sky ends in the blink of an eye. So, stay focused, otherwise, you could suddenly miss it passing you by under the fast-changing dusk sky. I really wish blue hour could literally last for an hour!

Editor’s note: it does in some parts of the world, at certain times of the year. If you want more blue hour time – travel farther away from the equator! Where I live in Canada blue hour is almost a full hour in the summer, versus 20 minutes where the author lives in Singapore.

The post How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour by Joey J appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Apple will stop automatically slowing down your iPhone, will let you decide

18 Jan
Photo by Suganth

Apple’s iPhone slowdown controversy has reached what seems like its final stage last night, when Tim Cook announced in an exclusive interview with ABC News that the company would give users the option to keep their older iPhones running at full speed, even once the battery had become, in Cook’s words, ‘unhealthy.’

The controversy began a few weeks ago when several iPhone users online shared benchmarks that showed older phones—iPhone 6 and 6s models—were being slowed down to less than half their original CPU performance. This led to wild speculation about so-called ‘planned obsolescence’: the idea that Apple was slowing down phones to encourage users to upgrade to newer models.

Apple admitted to releasing an update that slowed down iPhones whose batteries had become older, but the company was vehement that it was done in the users best interest—a way to prevent unexpected restarts. Cook reiterated this point in last night’s interview with ABC News.

“When we did put [the update] out, we did say what it was, but I don’t think a lot of people were paying attention and maybe we should have been clearer as well,” says Cook, explaining that Apple did notify users, probably in the update release notes. “And so we deeply apologize to anybody that thinks we had some other kind of motivation.”

In the short cut of the interview above, this apology is all that’s mentioned, but a longer version of the interview also revealed another very interesting tidbit: Apple’s forthcoming battery update will let users choose whether or not their phones are slowed down once the battery becomes ‘unhealthy.’

As MacRumors quotes from a longer cut they were able to embed:

We’re also going to… first in a developer release that happens next month, we’re going to give people the visibility of the health of their battery.

[…]

…we will tell someone we’re reducing your performance by some amount in order to not have an unexpected restart. And if you don’t want it, you can turn it off. Now we don’t recommend it, because we think people’s iPhones are really important to them, and you never can tell when something is so urgent. Our actions were all in service of the user. I can’t stress that enough.

Whether or not these changes—and the discounted battery replacements announced a couple of weeks ago—will be enough to get Apple out of a few of the lawsuits currently being pursued against the company is yet to be seen. But for users who wanted more transparency from the company, it’s definitely a step in the right direction.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: The Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4 is a budget option for Leica users

18 Jan

Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4 (Leica M-mount)
$ 640 (~$ 600 in Fujifilm X / Sony E-mount)
www.handevision.com

I’ve been curious about Handevision’s small range of Iberit primes since Dan and I saw them in person at last year’s CP+ show in Yokohama. Street prices for the lenses range between $ 640-800 for 24mm, 35mm, 75mm, and 90mm primes in Leica M-mount, and a little less for Fujifilm X and Sony E-mount versions, making them relatively affordable by the standards of all three systems.

Designed in Germany and made in China (‘Handevision’ is a portmanteau term – ‘Han’ signifies ‘China’ in Mandarin, while the following two letters ‘De’ represent the first two letters of ‘Deutschland’) the Iberit line is intended to be a low-cost alternative to ‘own-brand’ lenses and established third-party primes, for photographers dipping their toes into manual focus photography.

Key specifications:

  • Focal length: 35mm
  • Format: Full-frame (Leica M, Fujifilm X, Sony E-mount)
  • Manual focus
  • Aperture range: F2.4-16 (In 1/2 stops)
  • Filter thread: 49mm
  • Close focus: 0.7m (0.35m for E/X-mount versions)
  • Hood: Included, bayonet
  • Length / Diameter: 35 / 58mm (1.4 / 2.3in)
  • Weight: 220g (7.7oz)
  • Optical construction: 6 elements in 6 groups

Since I tend to shoot mostly at 35mm, I was most interested in the Iberit 35mm F2.4. So when I found a used copy in Leica M mount in my local camera store recently I decided to take a chance and buy it, mostly out of curiosity. If it turned out to be really good, maybe it would find a place in my permanent camera kit. If it ended up being a dud, I had 30 days to return it for a refund.

Design and handling

Of course, when it comes to lenses, things aren’t that simple. Most lenses shine in some situations and fail in others. Few are stunning at every aperture at every focal distance, and even fewer can shine in every environment in which they could possibly be used – lens design, after all, is an exercise in compromise. And while I was very curious about the Iberit 35mm F2.4 after handling the roughly-machined prototypes at CP+ last year, I will admit that my expectations were modest.

The Iberit 35mm F2.4 can be 6-bit coded to be read as whatever lens you like, with the addition of some dabs of black and white paint into the pre-engraved spaces on the lens mount.

It’s up to you how (or if) you choose to code the Iberit but the Leica Summarit 35mm F2.5 is closest in terms of specification. The 6-bit code is 101011 (1 = black, 0 = white) when the code is positioned at 12 o’clock.

Here I’ve filled in the black spots with craft paint, as an example. The chrome of the lens mount stands in for white because I’m lazy.

Cosmetically, the Iberit 35mm F2.4 (or my copy, at least) is a lot better than those early prototypes. The focus helicoid operates with an impressive smoothness – not quite up there with a new Leica or Zeiss prime but nicely-damped and with no wobble. An integrated focus tab is a welcome addition to the M-mount version of the lens.

The Iberit’s aperture dial is a little dry and could use stiffer detents at its 1/2 stop settings, but it moves between apertures positively enough that I can tell what I’m doing when operating it with my eye to the viewfinder. The lens coatings are bright and even, and nothing rattles when the lens is shaken.

This image shows the view through the Leica M10’s finder with the Iberit at its close focus position. As you can see, it intrudes considerably on the lower-right of the scene, even without a hood.

As you can also see, Carey is a man who enjoys his lunch.

Considering its relatively modest maximum aperture this is a big lens though, (especially by the standards of M-mount primes) and while nicely balanced on an M10, it does block a portion of the camera’s viewfinder – even without the hood attached. Obviously this won’t be a problem with the mirrorless versions.

I didn’t experience any problems with focus accuracy or focus shift – at least none that I can blame on the lens

Despite its low cost and fairly light (220g) weight, there is some brass inside the 35mm. This is most visually obvious in the focusing cam, which communicates focus distance mechanically to the camera’s rangefinder. My sample of the Iberit is perfectly calibrated on our M10 (ie., the camera’s rangefinder and lens’s markings agree at infinity). Throughout my shooting with this lens, I didn’t experience any problems with focus accuracy or focus shift – at least none that I can blame on the lens.

The mirrorless versions doesn’t need the complicated and precisely-calibrated mechanical focus cam mechanism, which probably explains their slightly lower cost.

Image quality

Optically, the Iberit 35mm F2.4 pleasantly surprised me. At F5.6 and F8, this lens is at least as sharp as anything else I regularly shoot with on the M10. There is some very modest vignetting at F2.4-2.8 but it’s barely noticeable in normal photography, even with no lens profile assigned. Barrel distortion can be found if you go looking for it, but it’s unlikely to trouble you except in close-up images of flat planes (i.e., test charts).

The M10’s built-in 35mm F2 (pre-ASPH) profile applies little or no noticeable distortion correction, so this image (shot at F4) is essentially ‘uncorrected’. As you can see, with a medium-distance subject, there’s virtually no distortion to correct.

For the sake of convenience, I manually assigned a 35mm F2 pre-aspherical profile in-camera (the v4 ‘bokeh king’ to be specific), so I could organize my files more easily in Lightroom, but if you want to, you can paint in whatever 6-bit code you like (see the table above for how to do that).

Barrel distortion is trivial to correct manually in Photoshop or Lightroom

The closest lens to the Iberit’s specification in Leica’s current lineup is the Summarit 35mm F2.5 and painting in this 6-bit code leads to effective correction of the Iberit’s close-range barrel distortion when the M10’s lens profiling setting is left on ‘Auto’. If you don’t want to go that route (and I would probably recommend you don’t, given the lack of distortion at normal subject distances), the barreling is trivial to correct manually in Photoshop or Lightroom.

Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4: Sample Images

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Central sharpness at infinity is decent at F2.4, and good by F2.8, becoming more even at F4, before reaching its full potential at F5.6, with good consistency across the frame and more than enough resolving power to create moiré in fine textures. Wide open though, there’s a significant dip in sharpness about two-thirds of the way across the frame, which suggests either complex field curvature or significant astigmatism in that region. At close focusing distances of less than ~1m the Iberit is still capable of resolving plenty of detail wide open, but contrast drops. If you’ve ever shot arm’s length portraits on a Fujifilm X100-series camera you’ll be familiar with the effect.

Shot almost straight into the sun without a hood at F5.6, this image demonstrates the Iberit’s impressive resistance to flare. The lens’s simple 6-bladed aperture creates pretty boring specular highlights (take a look at the sunlight sparkling on the water in the foreground) but CA and fringing are practically non-existent.

Flare is well-controlled, and bokeh wide open is reasonably smooth in the center, although things can get pretty busy and distracting depending on what’s in the background, especially towards the edges of the frame. The Iberit’s simple 6-bladed aperture is more or less circular until around F3.5 before becoming more angular when stopped down. Sunstars are (unsurprisingly given there are only six aperture blades) not among the lens’ strengths.

Conclusion

In summary, the Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4 is a good lens, which offers solid performance on the Leica M10. It’s relatively sharp in the middle and at the edges of the frame wide open, but not to the point you’d expect from even cheap modern lenses with even faster apertures like the Nikon full-frame 35mm F1.8G. Modern lens design has moved optics forward, naturally. But the Iberit is still a pleasant surprise for non bokeh-fanatics.

It’s very sharp across the frame by F5.6. Vignetting is negligible, distortion is simple and easy to deal with, and I can’t see lateral CA anywhere in my test shots, even with all profiling turned off. There’s a tiny bit of longitudinal CA that shows up as green and purple fringing wide open, but it’s never distracting. Flare was a non-issue in my shooting, which made me happy, because I don’t much like the Iberit’s bulky bayonet-mount hood.

By the standards of lenses made natively for the Leica M mount, the Iberit is something of a bargain

In terms of performance, by the standards of lenses made natively for the Leica M mount, the Iberit is something of a bargain, provided you can live with its size. This is my only serious complaint. For a rangefinder lens, the Iberit is big, with a large 49mm threaded filter ring. In fact while markedly lighter, it’s not that much smaller than Leica’s 35mm F1.4 Summilux ASPH FLE and only about a filter’s height shorter than the 28mm F2 ASPH. Considering it can be picked up new for a fraction of those lens’ MSRP though, I can live with it.

Shot from about 1m away, wide-open, this image demonstrates the Iberit’s rather busy bokeh. Specular highlights get progressively less circular, further away from the center of the image.

The value proposition on mirrorless is rather different. $ 600 is a lot to pay for a manual focus lens from a fairly obscure third-party manufacturer, when so many other options for X-mount and E-mount exist. Canon’s 35mm F2 IS, for example, is easily adaptable to Sony E-mount without significant penalty, and actually costs a little less than the Iberit (not including the cost of a smart adapter, of course…). Sony also makes an FE 35mm F2.8 that will set you back $ 599 and an E 35mm F1.8 OSS for $ 450, while Fujifilm’s 35mm F2 is available for under $ 400.

Ultimately, for photographers putting together an M-mount lens collection on a film or digital rangefinder body, the Iberit 35mm F2.4 is worth a serious look. I found mine used and in good condition for less than $ 300. It’s hard to find any (functional) M-mount glass for that price, even second-hand. For mirrorless ILC photographers though, better value options exist.

What we like:

  • Good standard of construction
  • Pre-milled 6-bit coding pattern
  • Decent central sharpness wide open (becoming excellent across the frame at F5.6-8)
  • Practically no vignetting and CA, minimal distortion at normal subject distances
  • Resistant to flare

What we don’t

  • Large (for an M-mount 35mm lens): partially blocks M10’s viewfinder
  • Soft off-axis wide open (before sharpening up again towards the edges)
  • Busy bokeh at wide apertures (especially towards the edges of the frame)
  • Distortion at close distances
  • Slight softness at close distances

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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