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Archive for January, 2018

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

07 Jan

There’s no doubt about it, the business of travel photography has never been tougher. More competition, an oversaturated market, falling license fees and limited client budgets mean that travel photographers have had to work harder and change their business models. Here are five ways to ensure that you stay ahead of the travel photography “game”.

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

1- Embrace Social Media

It’s hard believe that there was a time before social media. While some of us remember that time and have fond memories, there’s no doubt that social media has become a necessity for any business wanting to market itself. The opportunities to be able to speak to such a huge audience has meant that any brand that hasn’t embraced social media has been left behind.

Like a lot of other people, I was skeptical at first and didn’t really see the point or need for the likes of Instagram and Twitter. But slowly I have come to realize that it really isn’t an option and every photographer needs to embrace social media and maximize its potential.

So if you haven’t already started to do so, begin to learn about how to maximize the different social media channels available. It is integral to the success of your business.

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

2 – Think About ROI

One of the things that I always find interesting when I speak to people wanting to break into travel photography is their expectations of the industry versus the reality. Unfortunately, travel photography is an incredibly oversaturated market. That means there are more photos available than buyers actually need.

This, coupled with a few big stock agencies reducing prices over the years, has meant that the fee paid to photographers for a stock image is lower than it has ever been. The knock-on effect of this has also meant that the majority of clients who previously might have commissioned photographers are now turning to stock photos as it’s cheaper than hiring a photographer.

This means that as a travel photographer, you now have to really evaluate if a destination is worth the investment required. For example, a few years ago I headed to the Orkney Islands off Scotland (somewhere that had been on my bucket list for a while) and captured some great photos. But to this day I have not made enough sales from that trip to cover the cost of it, whereas somewhere like Abu Dhabi has paid for the cost of the trip a few times over. Clearly, a location like Abu Dhabi is a much more popular destination and so it is also more likely to be in demand for photos.

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

Obviously, this doesn’t mean you should never go anywhere like the Orkney Islands. But if you are building your business around those far-flung destinations you may find that you are simply not selling as many photos as you need to cover the cost.

3 – Expand Your Skills

DSLRs changed photography forever. Then smartphones came along and changed the whole industry. The explosion in digital photography has also meant that there is now, even more, an opportunity for unique photographs, but also more competition than ever.

So as a travel photographer, you have to be looking for ways to always expand your skills and repertoire. These days that might be by branching out into video, time lapse, or even drone photography. Whether we like it or not, these new innovations offer a completely new way of looking at the world and if you want to stay ahead of the game you need to try and expand your skills accordingly.

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

4 – Move With The Current Trend

Like most things, photography styles and trends move with the times. While it’s important to always keep your own style if you want to earn a living from photography you also need to ensure that you sell photos.

For example, these days more and more picture editors are looking for travel images that convey an experience or story rather than just a generic tourist type photo. In fact, I recently spoke to one of the stock agencies I work with and they said that their clients are now looking for more lifestyle type of travel shots that almost look like they have been taken with a smartphone rather than in a studio.

The key, as in any other industry, is to stay up to date with the current trends. Sign-up to newsletters, look at magazines and read industry news to ensure you know what is going on and where the trends are going.

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

5 – Re-evaluate Your Business Model

The biggest difference that amateur photographers notice when then move to being a professional is that they have to start treating photography as a business where every dollar is accountable. Like any business, every few years you need to evaluate where you are and where you want the business to go.

That means you might have to change your strategy, your marketing, and even as mentioned above your offering as a business (like video or time-lapse). No business can ever survive forever without changing with the times and photography is no different.

So if you haven’t done so already, think about your business and where it is and where it needs to go to to stay in the game.

5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game”

Photographers are often some of the most creative people in the world. But very few often evaluate and relaunch their business to move with the times. Whether we like it or not, change is constantly happening in every industry and photography is no different. Unless you are willing to ensure your photography business can and will evolve, you might be left behind.

The post 5 Ways to Ensure That You Stay Ahead of the Travel Photography “Game” by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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DJI introduces Ronin-S stabilizer for DSLR and mirrorless cameras

07 Jan

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DJI has announced the Ronin-S, its first single-handed stabilizer designed for use with DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

It will be available in two frame sizes (referring to the frame that holds the camera), one for mirrorless cameras such as the Sony Alpha system and Panasonic GH series, and another for larger DSLRs like the Canon 5D Mark IV. Additionally, the 3-axis gimbal is fully compatible with both in-camera and in-lens stabilization systems.

DJI tells us that it put a lot of work into making the system easy to use. It comes with a tripod that screws into the base, allowing the Ronin to stand upright on its own while rigging the camera, axis locks to prevent gimbal movement during setup, and a calibration process that it describes as quick and easy. Also included is a feature called Push Mode, activated in the Ronin app, that allows users to tune settings like pan and tilt while the Ronin-S is still turned on, eliminating the need to shut down the system to make these adjustments.

The Ronin app also provides a number of features designed to automate complex camera moves. These include CamAnchor, which allows you to set designated camera positions and toggle between them, Panorama and Hyperlapse tools, and also DJI’s ActiveTrack technology. SmoothTrack enables you to adjust gimbal responsiveness on each axis, along with the ability to save profiles for later use.

The Ronin app also provides a number of features designed to automate
complex camera moves

The Ronin-S includes dedicated control buttons for both camera and gimbal, including the ability to quickly toggle between settings, activate recording on the camera, and adjust camera position using the built-in joystick.

The Ronin-S is also compatible with some very useful accessories, including a focus dial with built-in screen that can be used as a follow-focus (primarily on Sony cameras, we’re told) or used to select SmoothTrack profiles saved in the Ronin app. There’s also a cheese plate for attaching other accessories and a car mount for shooting on vehicles.

Over the past couple years we’ve seen quite a few products designed for the growing market of small production companies and emerging filmmakers, including more cameras with advanced features like Log video, as well as a number of budget-oriented cinema lenses. A compact, affordable stabilization system should be very appealing to this audience.

Pricing for the Ronin-S has yet to be announced, but DJI indicated it will be available in the second quarter of 2018. If you’re attending CES 2018 in Las Vegas you can see the Ronin-S in person at the DJI booth.

Press release:

DJI Reveals New Handheld Camera Stabilizers At CES 2018

A Redesigned Osmo Mobile 2 Turns Smartphones Into Smart Steadycams and Ronin-S Becomes DJI’s First Single-Handed Stabilizer for DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras

January 7, 2018 – DJI, the world’s leader in creative camera technology, introduced two new handheld camera stabilizers at CES 2018 – Osmo Mobile 2 and Ronin-S. Built for smartphones, DSLRs, and mirrorless camera systems, they give consumers, professional videographers and photographers new tools to capture smooth, steady videos and stunning photos wherever they go.

  • Osmo Mobile 2: The handheld smartphone camera stabilizer from DJI, redesigned for the storyteller in all of us. Using a lightweight design that supports portrait orientation, with simpler controls with cinematic zoom, a longer battery life for more filming, and intelligent features to help you share a professional-looking story wherever you go.
  • Ronin-S: DJI’s first single-handed stabilizer for DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras. Built for efficient setup and ease of use with a compact form and dedicated buttons to control camera settings and precise positioning, plus intelligent features for advanced shooting modes all designed to help bring a steady shot to any set.

“With the introduction of these two stabilizers, DJI now offers gimbal technology to help unlock the creative storyteller in everyone no matter what camera they’re using,” said Paul Pan, Senior Product Manager at DJI. “Osmo Mobile 2 offers the best in smartphone stabilization at an affordable price, and Ronin-S brings the quality of DJI’s professional gimbal technology to a new form factor that is perfect for run-and-gun filming using your favorite DSLR or mirrorless camera system.”

Osmo Mobile 2 – Redesigned for the Storyteller in All of Us

Osmo Mobile 2 is a smartphone camera stabilizer that captures smooth videos and high-definition panoramas with cinematic movement and incredible ease. DJI’s industry-leading three-axis gimbal technology cancels out movement in three directions so your video stays steady even if your hands shake or wobble, while DJI’s built in SmoothTrack technology detects and compensates for your movement of the camera to ensure a smooth cinematic shot every time.

Designed to be lightweight and portable, Osmo Mobile 2 is made from high-strength modified nylon and features a folding design that makes it perfect for all-day use. The two-way mobile clamp lets you easily pivot between landscape and portrait orientation so that you can chose the most engaging full-screen format for your audience. In addition, a 1/4” universal screw mount ensures compatibility with your favorite photography accessories, making Osmo Mobile 2 more versatile than ever.

Simpler controls let you use your phone’s camera like a professional camera with integrated settings for ISO, shutter speed and more. A new zoom slider lets you completely operate your smartphone camera from the handle and you can even produce dolly zoom, a visual effect usually created only on professional film sets.

A more powerful built-in battery system lets you film for up to 15 hours, over three times longer than the original Osmo Mobile’s battery. The new USB port enables phone charging during use and serves as a power bank for charging other electronics while on the go.

Smart software in the DJI GO mobile app unlocks intelligent photo and video features that help you create professional-looking content automatically. Videographers can use modes including ActiveTrack to automatically follow of subjects in motion, Motion Timelapse with up to five different camera positions, Hyperlapse to create dramatic time-lapse videos with the camera in motion, or stream live to popular social platforms like Facebook and YouTube. Photographers can expand their creativity with options such as Panorama, Long Exposure and LightTrail modes.

Ronin-S – Bring a Steady Shot to Any Set

Ronin-S is DJI’s first single-handed stabilizer for DSLR and mirrorless camera systems. Available in two frame sizes for either camera type, DJI’s powerful three-axis gimbal technology delivers smooth, shake-free video and crisp photos, adding a cinematic and professional look to your work.

Powerful high-torque motors support the most popular camera and lens combinations including the Canon 5D, Panasonic GH and Sony Alpha systems. Its stabilization system compensates for zoom lenses with higher magnification ratios and an external zooming barrel, while its advanced stabilization algorithms work with both in-camera and in-lens optical stabilization technology.

Capturing stabilized video has never been easier because Ronin-S was designed for easy setup and use. A new Push mode lets you adjust the pan and tilt axis by hand while the Ronin-S is powered on and axis locks speed up the setup process so you can spend more time filming and less time prepping your gear. Ronin-S has a comfortable, ergonomic curved design that helps capture smooth cinematic movements from upright to underslung positions without obstructing the camera’s display. Ronin-S also features DJI’s intelligent battery technology that can be hot-swapped during operation for extended shoots.*

Dedicated control buttons for the camera and gimbal let you toggle between SmoothTrack settings, record and stop the camera, and the high-precision joystick changes the camera position to help frame your shot perfectly. A new Sport mode allows for fast movements with tight and quick subject following speed.

Harness intelligent shooting modes on Ronin-S through the DJI Ronin mobile app to create complex camera moves automatically like Panorama, Hyperlapse, Track and CamAnchor that lets you designate specific camera positions in a scene and rotate between them on demand. Directly customize SmoothTrack settings with dedicated controls for responsiveness of each axis. Camera settings can be directly adjusted as well.**

Ronin-S is compatible with a variety of DJI Pro Accessories to capture any scene and expand your creative freedom on set or location. Supported accessories include a Focus Control Center consisting of a focusing dial and a screen allowing advanced gimbal and focus control without a mobile device, a vehicle mount solution, DJI Master Force, DJI Master Wheels, an external focus motor, and a cheese plate adapter so you can use your favorite third-party accessories. A dual-handle support will also be available for when an added level of comfort and stability is required.

Price and Availability

Osmo Mobile 2 retails for $ 129 USD and will be available exclusively for pre-order at Apple.com on January 23, 2018. Starting in early February, it will also be available at store.dji.com, DJI Flagship Stores, and DJI Authorized Retailers, with additional availability later in February at Apple Stores in select regions worldwide. For more information on all the new features and capabilities of Osmo Mobile 2, please visit www.dji.com/osmo-mobile-2.

Ronin-S will be available in the second quarter of 2018 from dji.com, DJI Flagship Stores, DJI Authorized Retail Stores, and DJI Resellers worldwide***. Pricing will be announced prior to availability. Additional information on Ronin-S can be found at www.dji.com/ronin-s.

?Osmo Shield for Osmo Mobile

Osmo Shield is a coverage plan that extends the warranty of any Osmo series product by one additional year, including accidental hardware damage coverage, that covers up to one free replacement and provides repair solutions for two years. Osmo Shield is currently available in select countries, including China, the United States, and Canada.

Photos and Videos Available for Download

Osmo Mobile 2 photos: http://bit.ly/2CGwrPf

Ronin-S photos: http://bit.ly/2lXk4E8

DJI at CES 2018

Visit the DJI booth at CES to see the new Osmo Mobile 2 and Ronin-S, and experience the entire DJI product portfolio of camera drones and image stabilization systems. Onsite activities and promotion for CES attendees at the DJI booth include:

  • Rent an Osmo Mobile 2 for free each day
  • Compete in DJI’s daily flight simulator challenge to win a DJI Spark Fly More Combo
  • Register to enter a daily raffle for Ronin-S and receive a $ 100 USD discount coupon

DJI’s main booth is located in the Las Vegas Convention Center South Hall, Level 2, booth #26002. Drone flight demos will also take place at DJI’s booth in the Central Hall, booth #14710T.

*Can be utilized with dual-handheld accessory as well

**For supported camera models

***The Ronin-S products shown at CES 2018 are prototypes and the final specs and features may vary

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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VESA establishes world’s first open standard for HDR displays

07 Jan

HDR is a term increasingly causing confusion amongst both photographers and the masses. ‘Isn’t it that thing that makes my images look flat and less contrasty by including all the shadows and highlights in my final image?’ many of our friends and forum members ask.

Well, yes, if it’s not done right. But when it comes to displays, the ironic thing is that ‘HDR’ is meant to make imagery look less flat, by taking the wide dynamic range encompassed in HDR images and stretching it back out on the display to no longer look flat but, instead, encompass nearly as much punch as the scene had in the real world.

Whenever a new display technology comes along, and particularly when it falls into that gap before it’s well defined or understood, monitor manufacturers LOVE to throw the spec all over their products. That, in a nutshell, is what has happened with the ‘HDR’ moniker and computer displays, making it very difficult for someone to know what is and isn’t a “real” HDR monitor.

What kind of brightness and contrast ratio should you be looking for? What’s the actual static contrast ratio, not the stupidly high (and irrelevant) dynamic contrast ratio often quoted? What kind of color output should you expect out of an HDR monitor? And what the heck is local dimming?

These are the questions that manufacturers tend to not answer, at least for now, and it’s why VESA has created the world’s first open standard for HDR displays: DisplayHDR.

Targeted largely at LCD-based computer monitors (not OLED), the purpose of DisplayHDR is to establish an open standard with fully transparent testing methodology, so you can “rate” your display and see where it falls on the HDR scales. Is it really just an SDR monitor, or does it rank as DisplayHDR-400 (low-tier), DisplayHDR-600 (mid-tier), or DisplayHDR-1000 (top-tier)?

Here’s how those tiers break down, and the performance metrics they have to hit:

A breakdown of the VESA standard. Click to enlarge

‘Corner Maximum Limit’ is aimed to ensure local dimming implementations can effectively keep black levels low even when small non-central portions are illuminated brightly. ‘Tunnel Maximum Limit’ ensures good overall contrast with varied content all over the screen but with nothing hitting pure white. Many of these targets cannot be met without some sort of local dimming capability, which most computer displays don’t have. Consider these targets a ‘push’ to get manufacturers to embrace the future of HDR display.

Up until now, there was no open standard for HDR displays. The closest thing we had is the UHD Alliance Premium Standard, which is essentially just a stamp that you’ll see on TVs, Blu-ray players, discs, and the like that ensures your device hits 4K resolution, BT.2020 color space, 10-bit encoding, and a few key contrast and brightness specs. But unlike the VESA standard, there’s no gradation: you either have the UHD Alliance Premium Standard badge or you don’t.

VESA’s standard, on the other hand, aims to grade LCD-based computer monitor displays or grading monitors. It establishes tiers that manufacturers can shoot for when designing computer monitors. And since most if not all of these manufacturers are members of VESA, they have access to the documentation outlining the specifications and testing methodologies.

The hope is that the standard becomes widely accepted. That way, you can look for the VESA badge on your next monitor purchase to make sure the manufacturer isn’t just throwing the term “HDR” onto an IPS monitor that can only hit 350 nits brightness and a 1000:1 static contrast ratio (many otherwise highly-rated IPS monitors aimed at photographers from manufacturers like Dell, BenQ, Eizo and the like).

A DisplayHDR-400 rated display would be guaranteed to hit peak brightness of 400 nits, a black level of no more than 0.4 nits for a largely black scene (or 0.1 nits for a more varied scene only hitting 50% white at any point), 10-bit encoding, and 95% sRGB coverage. This would be considered the “first genuine entry point for HDR” by VESA. Funny enough, the otherwise excellent IPS displays many photographers choose might hit this standard, but we’d argue you shouldn’t consider such a display ‘HDR’. In other words, we here at DPReview don’t really consider monitors with the ‘DisplayHDR 400’ truly ‘HDR’. Grading or processing your images on these displays aren’t going to guarantee your images will look proper on future, truly ‘HDR’ displays.

A DisplayHDR-600 rated display would be guaranteed to hit a peak brightness of 600 nits, a black level of no more than 0.1nits, 10-bit encoding, 99% sRGB, and at least 90% DCI-P3 coverage. These specs, according to VESA, describe “professional/enthusiast-level laptops and high-performance monitors.” This rating, in our opinion, is far more stringent and is better indicative or a truly ‘HDR’ display. If you want your images and video to be future-proof, pick a display rated no lower than this.

Finally, a DisplayHDR-1000 rated display would guarantee peak brightness of 1000 nits, a black level of no more than 0.05 nits, 10-bit encoding, 99% sRGB, and at least 90% DCI-P3 coverage. This final tier describes, “professional/enthusiast/content-creator PC monitors.” This is the stamp of approval we’d be looking at were we to be grading video or photos that will look good on displays of the future. Monitors with the DisplayHDR-1000 badge will be far more representative of the displays of the future, so if you want to make sure your content is ready to be displayed on future devices, this is the badge you’ll want to look for when shopping for monitors.

This new 5K UltraWide monitor from LG earned the VESA DisplayHDR-600 badge, meaning it hits at least 600 nits peak brightness, 10-bit encoding, and 99% sRGB and 90% DCI-P3 coverage.

These new standards are also more stringent about color gamut coverage: the 600 and 1000 standards require what we’d call ‘wide gamut’ color coverage, capable of displaying colors well outside of the old (can we say ‘boring’) sRGB standard of yesteryear. That means they can display colors well outside of old photochemical printing devices, so you can edit far more saturated and interesting colors into your image that will be displayed by monitors and printers of the future (and current).

Furthermore, these new standards set stringent requirements on bit-depth: while 8-bit monitors with dithering are allowed, each one of these standards require you hit 10-bit color reproduction with or without 2-bit temporal dithering (many monitors of the past would only hit 8-bit by 6-bit panels with 2-bit dithering: a big no-no for HDR content capable of displaying a wider range of luminances and colors that might otherwise band or posterize with 6-bit panels).

To learn more about the new VESA standards, head over to the DisplayHDR website. There, you’ll find a simple breakdown of what constitutes an HDR display, why the standard was set up, and a link to download the DisplayHDR CTS (Compliance Test Specification) for free.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

07 Jan

Perhaps you want to creatively improve your image, already taken with a depth of field and bokeh or create this effect from scratch for a specific composition. In this article, you will learn how to work with new and old filters and their features, creatively apply textures, even create a bokeh texture from scratch.

Also, you’ll learn some small secrets and useful features of digital artists. Described techniques and features will be available depending on Photoshop versions, which I will mention in the process. You can use these techniques on any image and get surprising results, I just want to show you the principles and workflow.

Everything is about the creative approach, so do not hesitate and experiment!

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Shallow Depth of Field and Bokeh

A shallow depth of field (DOF) is when the desired object (focus point) appears sharp and everything else is blurred. Under certain shooting conditions on a blurry background, there may appear some beautiful circles or blurred highlights – that is called bokeh.

This effect can be done during the shooting process or synthetically added in post-processing. You can use this as an artistic style, to pay attention to a certain object or interesting composition. It’s very handy to use such effects if you want to hide some flaws or unsuccessful or empty parts of the composition.

Also, it is often used to create lighting and foreground effects, additional details that help to immerse the viewer in the atmosphere of the scene much more. Areas for using this technique and the creative possibilities are huge, so I suggest that you start with a practice.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Blur Gallery – Field Blur

So, let’s start with the most interesting and powerful features of Photoshop CC – the Blur Gallery and Field Blur filter. Blur Gallery is available in the filter menu, starting with Photoshop CC 2014, and has five blur effects with additional features, such as Motion Effects, Noise, and Bokeh. Note that this does not work in older versions of Photoshop!

Open the image, to which you want to apply the effect in Photoshop via File > Open or use Cmd/Ctrl+O shortcut or just drag and drop the image from your file explorer into Photoshop.

Next, on the Layers panel, right-click on a layer and choose “Convert to Smart Object” (Layer > Smart Object > Convert to Smart Object). Go to Filter > Blur Gallery > Field Blur. Your workspace has been changed to the Blur Gallery dialog box and you are shown a control pin in the center of the image (if there are no pins visible, try Cmd/Ctrl+H or go to View > Extras, to hides/shows guides, controls, etc.).

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Setting Your Blur Effects

So, for a pin in the center, set the Blur value to 0px and move it to the place in your image that should stay in sharp focus. Begin to apply a blur from the edges of the image and in problem areas that you want to hide by clicking on the place where you want to add pins or drag and drop existing pins to the desired place.

Adjust the blur intensity or remove it on the Blur Tools panel or use the blur handle around the pin itself. For the edges of the image, start with larger Blur values, and then reduce it, if necessary. Also, I used several pins with a smaller Blur values near the area in focus in order to create a softer transition from blurred to sharp areas. If you want to remove any of the pins, select it and press Delete on the keyboard.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Creating Bokeh

Now let’s set the settings for the bokeh. Start adding a bokeh by setting Light Bokeh to 100. Next work with the Light Range sliders and start moving white, then black, until finding the optimal ratio of values.

You can slightly reduce Light Bokeh values so you do not get large overexposed areas. At this stage, you need to be careful and change the blur settings along with others to get the best possible, most realistic result.

Adjust Color Bokeh values to vary the texture with a color and add unexpected shades. Just do not make this value too big, otherwise, it will increase saturation or a lot of additional shades will reveal themselves.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Iris Blur and Tilt-Shift

The following filter, which we will consider is Iris Blur. The principle of this filter is the same, but now you are working with the focus field. You see the white circle frame, that you can deform and rotate, four small points around it to control blur distribution (shape), pulling by a square you can specify the focus area. You can still use several pins but blur values are the same for all of them.

This filter is very convenient if you want to highlight a specific area. In the previous example, you could specify exactly which areas of the image stayed in sharp focus and had more flexibility to work with the form, here you have less control over the details.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Top image – Iris Blur. Bottom image – Tilt-Shift.

Tilt-Shift is very popular for the fact that it creates the impression of a miniature scene. It is especially good for photos of architecture and everything that is at a distance.

As an artist, I use it when I want to emphasize dynamism and distortion (especially, in abstract artworks) or to create a background when I work with portraits.

Path and Spin Blur

Path Blur is very useful if you decide to add motion to your composition or emphasize it. Unlike the Motion Blur filter, you can control the effect and set the most unusual directions for blur. Unfortunately, this filter does not have the ability to add a bokeh to the blur, but Motion Effects are available.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Top image – Path Blur. Bottom image – Spin Blur.

Spin Blur, also a motion blur, but in a radial form. With it, you can turn your photos into a painterly image and if you add color effects, it will turn out very well. I use this filter for various artistic techniques, mostly when I work with very abstract creations. With this filter, you can create a very simple simulation of long exposure photography.

The Blur Gallery

You can apply several filters from the Blur Gallery at once. Just checkmark desired filters, adjust their settings and click Ok to apply. Depending on the image size and performance of your computer, it may take time to render a preview of the effect and after once you apply the desired settings, so be patient.

Also, you can edit the settings of the applied filter if you convert the layer into a Smart Object and add the filter on it. It’s automatically a Smart Filter, so just double-click on the name of the filter and edit the settings. This is a non-destructive way of editing photos and creating artworks.

The advantage of a Smart Object is that you can go back and make changes to the filter or adjustment, apply it several times, even delete it if something went wrong and keep the original image intact.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Lens Blur Filter

Now let’s look at another powerful and fast solution for adding blur effects. The Lens Blur filter first appeared in Photoshop CS. So whatever version you use, CS or CC, this filter will be available for you. Take into account that this filter will not work on Smart Objects, so you can’t edit and apply this filter as a Smart Filter.

Again, open the desired image. Duplicate the original image layer (Layer > Duplicate layer or use the shortcut Cmd/Ctrl+J) to work non-destructively. In order to only apply an effect to a specific object or area, I made a selection with Quick Selection Tool (W) and added a layer mask to it (Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal Selection or use “Add layer mask” icon at the bottom of Layers panel).

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

To achieve a more realistic effect, blur the layer mask or its edge a bit because the hard edges of the mask can spoil everything. You can use Gaussian Blur filter (Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur) or Feather option on Properties panel (Window > Properties) with the settings to your taste.

Lens Blur Settings

Highlight the layer thumbnail and go to Filter > Blur > Lens Blur… In the window that appears, first set Preview to Faster because this filter sometimes takes a long time to process changes. Next, in the Depth Map section, you can set Source to a Layer Mask to not apply a blur to a masked area, or leave this parameter at None to blur an entire image.

Checkmark Invert if only the selection from a layer mask is blurred and adjust Blur Focal Distance for more accurate blur distribution. If Lens Blur effect does not appear on a layer, just delete a layer mask (right click on a layer mask > Delete Layer Mask).

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

In the Shape drop-down menu, you can choose a form of bokeh. In this example, I will use a triangle because this is a rather unusual form, but shapes like Octagon produce more normal blurred results. Radius value controls the size of that shape and the amount of blur that is applied. Blade Curvature quite creatively changes the form and makes the shape more circular. Rotation sets the angle (direction) of the bokeh shape.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

To control where the bokeh will appear, change the settings in the Specular Highlights section. Brightness increases the strength of the highlights within the blurred area.

Threshold controls which tonal range (pixels) need to be affected to create bokeh. This means that pixels brighter than a Threshold value can be used for creating a bokeh effect. Do not overdo with these two values, otherwise, bokeh shapes can merge into a single mass or even fill a part with white.

Adding Texture or Bokeh Overlays

You can always use additional textures in your artwork, created digitally or by using a camera. Open your image in Photoshop and go to File > Place Embedded (File > Place in older versions), then choose the desired texture. In my case, I made some photos with bokeh on a black background (to separate the bokeh).

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Next start to experiment with the different layer Blending Modes, such as Screen, Linear Dodge (Add), Color Dodge, etc. You can always reduce the effect of the texture by reducing the layer Fill or adding a contrast to the texture with a Levels adjustment or adjustment layer to add more Blacks and greys, to make it more like “transparent”.

Or if you like texture but don’t like a color in it, then use a Hue/Saturation or Color Balance adjustment to change the hue or remove the color completely. Sometimes in different artworks, I use a bokeh layer with some blurred objects (mostly invisible).

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Create Your Own Bokeh

This makes artwork more interesting and adds texture and details. There are a lot of opportunities for creativity with layers, and it’s simply impossible to describe them all in this article. But now I will show you one more interesting trick for creating bokeh texture from scratch using only Photoshop filters. If you like to experiment with filters and settings, then this is a very interesting direction, with a lot of options and discoveries in the process.

Create a new layer at the top of all layers by using the shortcut Cmd/Ctrl+Shift+N or going to Layer > New > Layer. In the dialog box that appears set Mode to Screen and checkmark “Fill with Screen-neutral color (black)”. Next, go to Filter > Noise > Add Noise and set following settings – Amount: 15%, Distribution: Gaussian and click Ok. If you want black and white texture, checkmark the Monochromatic option.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Next apply Mezzotint filter from Filter > Pixelate > Mezzotint with Type: Coarse Dots. This filter is needed to make noise texture sharper and add highlights to it. Now you need to soften the texture and blend colors. Apply Gaussian Blur filter (Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur) with a radius 2.0 pixels.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Go to Filter > Other > Maximum and set Radius: 20pixels, Preserve: Roundness. Depending on Radius value and size of your working document, the texture becomes larger or smaller. Apply a Levels adjustment (Image > Adjustments > Levels or use Cmd/Ctrl+L) and move the Blacks until you are satisfied with the result.

Play around and experiment with values of each of these filters and you can find a lot of interesting options.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

You can add more details to bokeh texture if you want, by using the Unsharp Mask or Find Edge filters. And if you repeat this technique again, but instead of using Mezzotint and Gaussian Blur, apply a Pointillize filter (Filter > Pixelate > Pointillize) with Cell Size: 35 you will get a completely different kind of bokeh texture. So do not hesitate to experiment!

On the internet, there are a lot of paid and free plugins available for Photoshop to create similar effects, for example, the Nik Collection. It’s a free and powerful addition to Photoshop CS4 through CC 2015 with a lot of interesting tools for photographers and artists. There also is the blur, depth of field and bokeh effects produced by Analog Efex Pro 2. In the image below you can see the work of this filter.

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Conclusion

And at the end some pieces of advice for you.

More is not always better! Sometimes too many effects (unfortunately any) can give the opposite effect and hide the beauty of the original image or idea. Therefore, try to achieve harmony in color, composition and use these techniques with an intention. If you decided to experiment, then embody the idea entirely, do not hesitate! Do so as you like it.

Bokeh is a lighting effect, use it carefully, so as not to overexpose the overall image. This effect can add excessive brightness to highlights (the right part of the histogram), unwanted light peaks, or increase the overall brightness of the image. It’s important, for example, if you decide to share the picture on the internet or print your image.

The more contrast that is applied with a clear, not overexposed bokeh, the better it looks. So keep your eye on the histogram (you can find it in Window > Histogram).

How to Create Realistic Bokeh and Blur Effects using Photoshop

Also, your bokeh should not be underexposed as well. This is important, by the fact that very often people try to remove unnecessary brightness incorrectly, so get a pale, not realistic bokeh. In exceptional artistic cases, this is permissible, but it is better not to do this.

Pay attention to where you have located or placed bokeh textures and where are the focus and blurred areas in your image, in order to express it more realistically and logically, through a visual image (in photo or artwork).

I will be glad to see your creative inventions, discoveries, and final results. If you have questions, please use the comments section below.

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Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN for Micro Four Thirds sample gallery

07 Jan

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We’ve already taken the Sony E-mount version of Sigma’s super fast 16mm lens for a spin, and we were eager to see how the Micro Four Thirds version stacks up. Announced in fall of 2017, the 32mm equivalent prime includes weather-sealing a nine-blade aperture – all for $ 450.

See our Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN for
Micro Four Thirds sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos – 4 Steps

07 Jan

When we think of storytelling images, we immediately think of people doing something in a documentary type of photograph. After all, people make the most interesting stories. But landscapes have stories too.

As a landscape photographer, you can create a collection of images that tell a story about a place without having people as the main focal point in the image.

Salton Sea, California by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos

The following steps will help you pull the story out of the landscape and convey it to your viewers.

1. What is the story?

The first thing you need to do is to spend some time thinking about what exactly is the story. Often we go to a place and start making images based on compositional elements in the scene without thinking about what is important to the story first.

Salton Sea California by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

When I go to a new place, I often do a scouting trip first just to have a general look around and get a feel for it. Then I do some research to find an interesting story. If the place is a park, why is it a park? Who made it a park? What is the history? What interesting things happen there now and in the past? Do any animals live there, and if so which ones?

Once you have some background, you can pick a story to wrap your photographs around.

Egret at Salton Sea, California by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

2. The first photo shoot – using different focal lengths

Your first photo shoot will help you bring your plan together. Go back to the places that had the most photographic potential from your scouting trip and while there look for elements in the scene that relate to the story you have chosen.

I usually start out with a wide-angle image that takes in the whole scene. Often I don’t end up using this photo in the final collection, but it helps me in my process of making the collection. When you have your photo that takes in everything, think about what are the most interesting things in the scene. Try to pick at least three things and then get closer to each one of them in turn.

Gulls Flying over Pelicans by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

White pelicans by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

Example

For example, when I went to the Salton Sea in California (a stunningly beautiful location that was created as a result of a man-made disaster) one feature that is most interesting is a layer of dead fish. But how do you make a good photograph of dead fish?

I started by making an image that took in the whole scene. Then I changed lenses to use a mid-range focal length and then a long focal length from where I was standing. Then I started to get closer and closer to the dead fish looking for elements of design such as lines and shapes along the way.

Salton Sea Tilapia by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

Dead Tilapia at Salton Sea, California by Anne McKinnell - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

When I found something interesting, again I tried to use different focal lengths to see how I could convey the feeling of the place in an image.

Make sure you photograph the details of the scene as well as the overall feeling. Finally, when you find a really interesting detail, get really close to it using your wide-angle lens so you have an image with an interesting detail in the foreground that also takes the whole scene into the frame.

3. The second shoot – using the best light

The next step is to pick out your favorite images from your first shoot and think about what kind of light could make them better. Is there a subject with a great shape that would make an interesting silhouette? Is it transparent and might glow with some backlight?

Would it create interesting shadows at a certain time of day? Would it look best with warm light during the golden hour? Does it need a dramatic sky?

Sunset at Corvina Beach, Salton Sea, California - How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos - 4 Steps

Whatever it is, plan to revisit the location when you have the best chance of getting the conditions you need to make your ideal shot. You may need to go back a number of times, if possible before you get all the shots you want.

4. Putting it together

Whether you are putting the images into a collection display on your wall, using them in a blog post, displaying them on your website, selling them to a magazine (along with your story of course), or simply showing your friends. Having an interesting set of images that are storytelling will always create a larger impact than random photos of a place that are not connected.

Salton Sea Collage by Anne McKinnell

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Shooting K?lauea Volcano, Part 3: At Sea

06 Jan

In the first part of this series, I talked about shooting Kilauea’s lava surface-flows using a drone. In the second part I talked about shooting the lava with a DSLR from the ground. This time, I’d like to take you on the mini-adventure of sailing on the Pacific’s rough waters and shooting the lava entering the water at the Kamokuna Ocean Entry from a dedicated lava-viewing boat.

Please note that lava flow is never guaranteed. As I’m writing this, the ocean entry is inactive, so it’s always good to check the situation before traveling.

I was a bit anxious before heading out to the ocean. I suffer from severe motion sickness, and while pills help, they won’t keep my food in my belly if the water is rough. I was overwhelmingly relieved to hear that the ocean was supposed to be quiet the morning of our sail. I still gulped down 4 pills just in case!

Several providers offer dedicated lava-viewing trips, and they can easily be found online. Most offer the excursion at several fixed times each day. It was an easy choice to go at morning twilight, since I’d get nighttime, twilight and sunrise images in one sail. I chose a large boat with room for 50 people, give or take. When we were allowed on, I did my best to find a spot at the front of the seating area, since this would give me a larger field of view and more time doing actual shooting. The sail wasn’t cheap—I paid $ 250—but it was very much worth it.

What a hectic, delightful sight!

Arrival at the ocean entry takes about 30 minutes of fast sailing in open ocean. Bear in mind that this can be a problem if you suffer from motion sickness like I do, so please take precautions or you’ll be very sorry.

Upon arrival at the actual location, I was astounded to see the hectic clash of 1100-degree molten rock and ocean water. The temperature difference creates constant steam, and this, together with the ever-changing lava formations, creates an infinite variety of possible shots. A true delight for someone who thrives on shooting changing landscapes.

There are shapes created not only in the lava. The waves, crashing on the black rock and pushed by the steam, also create interesting shapes that are worth capturing.

Can you spot the tiny dancer?

Technically, there are many challenges one faces when shooting lava from a boat. Upon arrival, when it’s still nighttime, the global contrast in the scene is almost impossible to deal with. The lava is more than a few stops brighter than the solid rock and the water. Add the constant change in brightness and the result is often blown out. The photographer needs to continuously check the histogram and make sure the best compromise is made.

On my Canon 5D4, I tried not to have the brights overly exposed, since shadows are a bit easier to recover.

Since long exposures are out of the question (you’re on a rocking boat), and longer focal lengths are often used, high exposure speeds and thus very high ISO are required when shooting at nighttime. I normally used ISO 6400, just to get some detail in the water and the rocks.

I aimed to expose between 1/500 and 1/1000 sec with my 70-300mm to overcome the constant motion. Since frequent and immediate focal length changes were necessary, I had to have the exposure speed on the high end.

Luckily, when dawn strikes and ambient light begins to appear, global contrast and brightness levels improve a great deal. This was my favorite time to shoot, as the blend of colors (red from the lava, blue from the ocean at twilight) was wonderful, and shooting conditions were easier—lower ISO required and less concern about contrast management.

Wonderful colors and action upon morning twilight at the ocean entry. If you look very carefully, you’ll be able to spot another boat in this image! As light was a bit stronger, I could lower the ISO to 3200 and gain a bit more image quality.

As the light increases and sunrise approaches, the contrast goes down, and the extreme look with it. They give way to a more silky, matted look and a more balanced, easier to swallow histogram. Shooting at this stage is much easier and more fun. The lack of concern allowed me to concentrate on finding interesting patterns and creating compelling compositions.

These conditions were also great for putting more emphasis on the meeting of lava and water. At some points, the waves crash on the lava and flow on top of it, which looks a bit surreal.

Lastly came the sunrise. Luck struck again and this too was beautiful. I hope this last image gives you a feel of what it was like to be there, in the middle of the Pacific, watching Earth’s molten interior flowing to meet the water.

In the next and final article in this series, I’ll write about shooting the lava from a helicopter.


Erez Marom is a professional nature photographer, photography guide and traveler based in Israel. You can follow Erez’s work on Instagram and Facebook, and subscribe to his mailing list for updates.

Erez offers video tutorials discussing his images, and explaining how he achieved them.

If you’d like to experience and shoot some of the most fascinating landscapes on earth with Erez as your guide, take a look at his unique photography workshops in locations such as southern Iceland, Northern Iceland, The Lofoten Islands, Patagonia, Greenland, Namibia and the Faroe Islands.

More in The K?lauea Series:

  • Part 1: How to Melt a Drone
  • Part 2: Grounded

Selected Articles by Erez Marom:

  • Parallelism in Landscape Photography
  • Winds of Change: Shooting changing landscapes
  • Behind the Shot: Dark Matter
  • On the Importance of Naming Images
  • On Causality in Landscape Photography
  • Behind the Shot: Lost in Space
  • The Art of the Unforeground
  • Whatever it Doesn’t Take

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary for Sony E-mount sample gallery

06 Jan

The Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary is an ultra-fast wide-angle prime for Sony APS-C mirrorless cameras. The lens features low-dispersion elements, a nine-blade aperture and weather-sealing, all for under $ 450.

We’ll be posting a gallery from the Micro Four Thirds version of this lens in a few days.

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Review: Rylo is a 360º camera done right

06 Jan
The Rylo camera captures a 360º spherical image. Its companion mobile app makes it possible to export standard HD video from anywhere in the image.

Over the past couple of years I’ve tried quite a few consumer-oriented 360º cameras, and while I’m generally excited about the future prospects of 360º photo and video, I’ve also been of the opinion that applications and technology need to improve before it really gets traction with consumers.

Part of my ambivalence towards 360º video stems from the fact that few of the cameras I’ve tried really do anything unique. Almost universally, they capture spherical video that requires a VR headset to view, or which requires the viewer to drag around an image to find the part of the scene they care about.

The Rylo Camera ($ 499) takes a different approach. Although it captures 360º photos and video, it does so with the idea that you can later select a region of the image from which to create a standard 16:9 HD video. It’s basically like an action cam that lets you decide where to point the camera after you’ve shot your footage.

It’s basically like an action cam that lets you decide where to point the camera after you’ve shot your footage.

On the hardware side of things, the Rylo looks much like any other VR or action camera. It has two fisheye lenses and records 4K spherical video or 6K spherical photos. The body is aluminum and feels very solid – much more so than most action cameras I’ve used. A small door provides access to the MicroSD card and battery, and a small display shows remaining battery and recording time.

However, it’s the software that makes the Rylo really interesting. Video is copied to your mobile device via the included cable, and the camera’s companion app provides numerous opportunities for getting creative.

Before you even begin working with your footage, the app applies automatic horizon leveling and image stabilization. You don’t even notice how effectively this works until you turn these features off, but once you do so it becomes apparent that this correction is really good.

This video shows the same clip with the Rylo’s image stabilization and horizon correction turned on (left) and turned off (right). It works very effectively.
Video by Dale Baskin

To begin editing a video, you simply open a clip and select your desired framing within the app. You could export your HD video at that point, but you would be ignoring the software’s best feature: the ability to direct the camera after the fact.

One way to do this is to tap and hold the screen, then select the option to ‘Look Here’. Doing so locks the camera at that position and creates a keyframe. It’s possible to create multiple keyframes at different locations throughout your clip, and the software will virtually tilt and pan as needed to transition between them.

Even better, you can let the software do the work for you. In addition to ‘Look Here’, there’s also a ‘Follow This’ option that locks onto a subject and tracks it, smoothly panning and tilting like a virtual camera on a gimbal. I found this feature surprisingly effective, and it produced very natural looking footage.

My friend Stu West offered to take the Rylo skiing with his family for a day. In this video we used the app’s Follow Me feature to track the skier down the hill. Stu pointed the camera straight ahead through the entire run; most of the camera movement is the result of virtual panning by the Rylo app.
Video by Stu West

If you want to see the world a bit differently, there’s also a ‘Tiny Planet’ view that shrinks the entirety of your world down into a small sphere.

In addition to motion control, the software also includes the ability to trim clips and perform basic corrections including highlights, shadows, vibrance, and tone (WB). It’s fairly basic, but enough that you can generally adjust the footage to your taste.

The biggest challenge I ran into when shooting video was adjusting my own behavior. I had a tendency to point the camera at my subject as it moved around, much like you would do with an action cam. That actually made editing a bit more difficult, so I had to learn to hold the camera still, then virtually change my camera direction later using the app.

This clip shows an example of the Rylo’s Tiny Planet mode. (Note: the camera records sound in this mode, but we chose not to include it.)
Video by Stu West

The Rylo can also be used for still photos, but I found the experience less satisfying. There’s no way to remotely trigger the shutter from your phone; instead, you have to physically press the shutter button, meaning that your hand is guaranteed to cover much of the photo. As with video, you can select your framing after the fact, but the largest image size is 1080p video resolution, though in practice resolution appears to be somewhat lower than that.

Of course, the Rylo is also a 360º camera that can be used to export spherical images or video. In that sense, it doubles as a VR cam if you want to share a VR experience.

Battery life is respectable. Rylo claims 60 minutes of continuous recording using the interchangeable battery, which is just about enough to fill a 64GB memory card, and based on my experience that seems about right.

The Rylo captures 6K spherical VR photos. It’s possible to export framed images at resolutions up to 1920×1080 pixels.
Photo by Dale Baskin

Speaking of memory, one thing you’ll need is a lot of free space on your mobile device. At its high quality setting, the camera records at a rate of approximately 1GB/minute, and your phone will need enough free space to copy all the footage.

As much as I enjoyed using the Rylo, it’s not perfect. The 1080p video files it exports are, in reality, somewhat lower resolution. That’s not surprising considering that total resolution for the entire spherical file is 4K. That said, it looks very good on a smartphone screen, so if you’re sharing to social media where people are likely to watch on a mobile device it will look fine.

…the camera records at a rate of approximately 1GB/minute, and your phone will need enough free space to copy all the footage.

It would also be nice if the camera were waterproof. The included ‘Everyday Case’ with handle is well designed and very effective, but if you want more protection you’ll need to spring for the ‘Adventure Case’ ($ 69).

The Rylo is a great example of a 360º camera done right. Rather than just capturing spherical video and expecting your audience to view it as such, it provides a set of tools that allow you focus in on telling your story, as well to share that story in a way that’s comfortable and familiar to most people. Sure, I wish the video quality were a bit better, but I’d likely choose the Rylo over many action cameras because it provides such an easy way to direct the action after the fact.

It’s also a reminder that there’s a lot of potential opportunity for 360º cameras if manufacturers are willing to think outside the box. Or, maybe I should say outside the sphere.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Have Your Say 2017: the winners

06 Jan

Have Your Say 2017: The Winners

As 2018 gets started in earnest, it’s time to look back at what you thought of the best-of-the-best in photography gear in 2017. We first whittled everything down to your final choices after two rounds of voting, and our final poll culminated in thousands of votes cast across 16 choices. Without further ado, let’s see which product you’ve crowned as the absolute best of 2017.

Runner-up: Sony a9

In third place for our final poll is the sports-oriented Sony a9, garnering 10.7% of votes and easily edging out the next-best performer, the iPhone X. As we stated in our full review, it’s an incredibly capable speed-machine, and its 20 fps burst shooting with zero blackout is one of our favorite features.

Runner-up: Sony a7R III

In the second-place position in our final poll with 21.3% of total votes sits the Sony a7R III. It’s a supremely well-rounded camera, offering 42MP of resolution and 10 fps burst shooting while also improving ergonomics and battery life. We think it’s the best camera Sony’s made yet, is one of our joint-winners for High-end Camera of the Year as well as our choice for Product of the Year and it easily earned a Gold award in our full review.

Winner: Nikon D850

It’s only fitting that each of our joint-winners for High-end Camera of the Year should be among your choices for the best products of 2017 – and with an impressive 25.8% of total votes in our final poll, Nikon’s D850 handily takes the top spot.

Although we picked the a7R III as our overall Product of the Year, the race between it and the D850 was incredibly tight, and you certainly can’t go wrong with either. The D850 is truly a DSLR tour-de-force, blending speed, resolution and image quality with superb ergonomics and a vast lens ecosystem for nearly limitless creative possibilities. We’ve called it the best DSLR on the market, and now, you’ve crowned it as your favorite product of 2017.

Full results

Here’s the final breakdown of all 4,614 votes. A hearty thank you to everyone who voted – we can’t wait to see what the photographic world has in store for us in 2018!

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