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Archive for August, 2017

Tips to speak english fluently pdf

28 Aug

When I moved to Seattle from the tribal areas of northwest Pakistan to study journalism through the State Department’s Northwest Community College Initiative — In a nutshell, I won’tips to speak english fluently pdf be able to do as you wish. I want to speak like americans; I am Nigerian and love to speak American […]
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There’s no right way to be a photographer, and no right way to shoot (or not shoot) an eclipse

28 Aug
Photo by Allison Johnson

After speaking with a bone-a-fide eclipse expert a few months ago, I’ve been a proponent of not taking photos of the solar eclipse. So, on the morning of August 21st, 2017, I was on my way to the office with no plans to take pictures. I happened to have the Nikon D810 and AF-P 70-300mm at my side, but that was only because I’d been shooting with it over the weekend and planned to bring it to the office and pass it off to someone else.

My grand plan for the morning included mooching my colleague Jeff Keller’s eclipse glasses and safely viewing the event from our building. This scheme was almost waylaid when I was initially turned away from the at-capacity roof deck by an actual bouncer. But I persisted, and by that I mean I just hung around for a few minutes, and eventually made it outside into the utter spectacle when someone else left.

Equally as good as the show in the sky was the show on the ground

As it turned out Jeff actually had glasses to spare, because he is good at planning ahead, so I found myself with a coveted spot on the deck and a pair of eclipse glasses just as the show was getting good. But I was surprised to find that equally as good as the show in the sky was the show on the ground.

There’s something that happens to your face when you put on these glasses and look at the moon in front of the sun. I felt it happen to my face, and I saw it on countless other faces Monday morning. Your mouth opens in awe. You smile, or laugh, or just stare.

Photo by Allison Johnson

I watched, and eventually started photographing my fellow eclipse-viewers. And though I hadn’t expected to take any photos at all, I found myself really enjoying capturing the reactions around me. Not one person put on those glasses and looked bored or unimpressed. Staring at the moon eclipsing the sun turns out to be a great equalizer, because it makes us all feel like little kids again. In fact, Wenmei can verify this, because she took photos of actual kids.

Photo by Wenmei Hill. Also, two of these children.

My lackadaisical approach to the whole thing was just one of a range of ways DPR staffers captured the eclipse. My colleague Dale Baskin planned for the big day months in advance. He traveled south to Oregon, where he’d staked out a place for himself in the path of totality. He’s an experienced night sky photographer and had a mostly set-it-and-forget it rig in place, so he photographed the whole enchilada and even managed to enjoy it too.

And then there’s Rishi. Never one to back down from a scientific challenge, he Frankensteined a rig that he was mostly certain would not fry his camera’s sensor. It worked, and his sensor is still intact.

Photo by Rishi Sanyal

Stacking filters and doing math seems like entirely too much trouble to me, but if I’ve learned anything working at DPReview it’s this: that’s just how some people enjoy photography. It’s different from how I enjoy photography, but that’s okay – each is valid.

Really, the “don’t photograph the eclipse” advice wasn’t directed at every photographer. It was meant for people like me: hobbyists who might be tempted to try and capture the event at the expense of their own enjoyment of it.

There’s no one right way to be a photographer, and there’s no one right way to enjoy an eclipse

The more precise advice would have been, “Enjoy the eclipse,” and for many people, that means photographing it: scouting a location, acquiring the right filter, picking a lens, getting in place and coming away with a once-in-a-lifetime shot. And it wouldn’t really matter whether that eclipse shot looks more or less like everyone else’s: what matters is that they did it and enjoyed the process. That means something different to me than it does to Dale or Rishi.

As a baseball fan with little interest in advanced stats, the sentiment I often hear that “there’s no one right way to be a fan” makes a lot of sense to me. For some people, enjoying the game means understanding how to calculate a player’s slugging percentage. I’m content just baselessly speculating whether Nelson Cruz will hit a 400-foot home run in his next at bat. To each their own.

Just as there’s no right way to be a fan, I believe there’s no one right way to be a photographer, and no one right way to enjoy an eclipse. It really is too good of a thing to miss, however you take it in.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos

28 Aug

As a photographer, there are so many things that you learn and do on a regular basis. Creating habits in your craft is a good approach to making it become second nature. Here are a few things that most professionals do that you can incorporate into your workflow to help you take better photos.

10 Things You Can Learn from Professional Photographers to Help You Take Better Photos

1. Blink Blink

Pros use the highlight overexposure alert. If you have this turned on in your camera, you will no doubt understand one of its more common name, “blinkies”. When this feature is turned on, it gives a preview of your image with blown out highlights slowly blinking black and white, as a warning.

Blinkies (or blown out highlights) are not always wrong, but if it is in an area you want to show detail, then this information will be useful. You can then correct the exposure as necessary and review the image again.

10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos

The highlight alert (circled) blinks to show an overexposed/blown out sky.

2. Focus Focus

Knowing how to quickly move your focus point where you want it is a definite plus. On the opposite side of that is locking focus, which is another great skill to have. Both tell your camera exactly where you want to focus. Moving your focus point helps you place it exactly where you want while locking your focus enables you to grab your focus point, lock it in and recompose your image.

Knowing when to use both of these can also help you get more creative, so practice.

3. Know when to use spot metering

The in-camera light meter helps you determine how to adjust your exposure settings by measuring the brightness of the scene. The default metering mode in your camera is most likely set to Matrix mode (also called Evaluative or Pattern metering).

Evaluative metering works well in most situations but pros know that there are times when they need to switch. Spot metering evaluates only the light around your focal point and calculates exposure based on just that area. Some examples of when a pro would use spot metering include; photographing the moon, someone on a stage, or any scene with a lot of contrast.

10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos

Evaluative Metering versus Spot Metering.

A good way to learn when Spot metering is the right choice is by switching to it from time to time and looking at your results.

4. Use Live View to set White Balance

A handy little trick is using the LCD monitor at the back of the camera to set your White Balance (WB). This way you get a real time preview of what your final shot will look like comparatively. This is especially handy if you are shooting jpeg and don’t have the luxury of changing the White Balance after the fact.

5. Good Memory

Simple enough is to walk with extra memory cards. A trick that you can only get from experience though is not cramming too much on any one card. If you are shooting for any paying client, split your shots into several cards because believe it or not, cards can fail on you. If your shots are spread out, you may still have enough images to salvage a shoot.

Bonus memory card tip: Invest in good card recovery software. If you take your card out and for some reason are not seeing the images on your computer, do not put it back in and shoot. Good recovery software has saved many a pro.

6. Bracket

Bracketing in short, is taking several shots of a subject using different exposure levels. It is one of the easier ways to produce images with a high dynamic range. Pros also use bracketing when they unsure about exposure or dealing with tricky lighting.

10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos

Bracket images to reveal more dynamic range.

7. Sharpness – Check

By now you may have realized that everything looks sharp on a 3” screen – only to open it up on your computer and see that it is blurry. You could save yourself some heartache by zooming in and checking the image sharpness while you’re still in the field as the pros do.

8. Extra Batteries

When packing your gear, always make room for extra camera batteries. This seems obvious enough, but of note is that if you are shooting in cold weather you may even need to supplement that. Batteries are the one part of your camera that is affected the most by cold weather. A drop in temperature causes your battery to deplete faster and thus not last as long. Keep this in mind the next time you are outdoors targeting golden hour into twilight time.

10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos

Pack extra batteries when shooting in the cold.

9. Use a lens hood

The main reason to use a lens hood is to prevent side light from hitting the front of the lens. A lens hood thus reduces or eliminates lens flare that can occur when shooting outdoors during daylight hours.

But, most pros keep their lens hood on even when shooting indoors for more than just blocking light. They use it as protection against scratches, cracks, fingerprints and even some impact. It’s a good habit to use a lens hood.

10. Beep Beep Beep

Backup your images. Pros will tell you that this is at the top of their list. One recommended backup strategy is twice before formatting your memory cards – once to your computer and make a secondary copy to an external drive. If you are even more paranoid, it does not hurt to back up while out in the field. There are a number of portable drives available where you can copy your cards over without a computer.

10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos

Backup your images to save yourself some heartache.

Conclusion

Those were just a few of the many things you can keep in mind and add to your own routine. What are some of the things that you would suggest to help newbies take better photos? Share in the comments section below.

The post 10 Things You Can Learn from the Pros to Help You Take Better Photos by Nisha Ramroop appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

28 Aug

In this article, I will give some tips for you on how to get great photos from your old camera or an outdated model you’re still using.

The rapidly advancing technology issue

Camera technology has advanced so rapidly in recent years. Which makes it easy to think that the brand-new DSLR you got last year and love using so much is already outdated and incapable of taking good pictures. Comparing apples to apples, or in this case cameras to cameras, is enough to give one a healthy dose of humility when you discover that the six-frame-per-second camera you were so excited to buy has now been outclassed by its newer seven fps counterpart.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

This and all the images in this article were taken with either a Nikon D200 or Canon Rebel XTi. Both were made in 2006 or, as I like to call it, the stone age of digital photography.

Looking at charts and diagrams of how high ISO performance in the latest models run circles around your old dusty camera can give anyone a healthy dose of GAS, or Gear Acquisition Syndrome. I’m just as guilty of this as anyone else. I have long since relegated my outdated gear to the upper storage shelves in my closet in favor of newer, fancier, more expensive cameras that hold a much closer place in my heart.

However, there’s no rule that says you can’t take beautiful pictures with old cameras and just because something new and shiny comes along doesn’t mean your old gear is suddenly destined for the dustbin.

Dig out the old camera

As a way of experiencing this firsthand, I recently got out my old Nikon D200 camera, the first DSLR I ever owned, and put it through its paces to see if I could still get some good pictures from its aging body. Of course, anyone who has shot with older gear already knows the answer is, absolutely!

A good camera from 2007 is still a good camera in 2017. The beautiful pictures you took in days gone by aren’t suddenly going to transform into ugly monstrosities just because another model of camera has come down the pike. However, what I was really interested in investigating was whether outdated cameras are still worth using in spite of the many advances in modern imaging technology.

My trusty old Nikon D200

For example, here are the specs of the old Nikon model with which I shot several photos for this article:

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

Old cameras might not have all the bells and whistles of their modern brethren, but don’t discount them entirely.

  • 10 megapixels
  • A maximum ISO of 1600
  • Heavy as a brick
  • It has no Live View
  • There is no touch screen
  • There is video capability
  • 11 Autofocus points
  • One very slow Compact Flash card slot

Any serious photographer would scoff at these specs, right? Well, not exactly. Old cameras like this may not hold a candle to modern models with every latest innovation packed into a much smaller space. But if you’re willing to put up with a few tradeoffs you may be surprised at what you can still do with them.

The real question isn’t whether or not an old camera can still take good pictures because if it could take good photos in 2006 it can still do so today. Nothing about a newer camera inherently makes the older camera any worse, unless by way of comparison. There are a couple of things you can do to get better photos if you do have, or are thinking about buying, an older camera that can help you get the most out of your images.

Work within the camera’s limitations

One of the best things you can do if you want to get good pictures with old gear is to know the strengths and limitations of the equipment you are using. Then take pictures that work around those characteristics.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

ISO limits

For example, one trait that is almost universal among older gear is miserable high ISO performance. Modern cameras can often shoot at ISO 3200 or 6400 without breaking a sweat. But be prepared to adjust your expectations quite a bit if you pick up a model from 10 years ago.

Solving the problem isn’t all that difficult, it just takes a bit of creativity and adjustment on your part. When I took my D200 (which I don’t dare shoot past ISO 800, and even that is pushing it) out to experiment as I wrote this article, I kept the ISO performance in mind. I aimed for pictures where light was not a scarce commodity (in other words, avoid low light situations). The result was pictures I like quite a bit and would hold up against anything I could take with my modern Nikon D750.

Megapixel limits

Old cameras are also generally low on the megapixel front. That doesn’t mean a whole lot unless you’re doing a great deal of heavy cropping to your images and even then you can still get good results if you crop carefully. It is something to keep in mind though, and it’s important to shoot your pictures knowing the limitations like this. Get closer to your subjects instead of cropping, or find a lens that has a little more reach to it compared to the lenses you are used to using.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

Other limits of older cameras

In addition to more megapixels, modern cameras often have large image buffers, burst rates, and more reliable autofocus systems than their older counterparts. Keep this in mind if you go to a sporting event or head out to capture wildlife photography with an older camera, and change things up a bit to get the images you are looking for.

Plan your shots carefully so you don’t fill up the image buffer, or shoot with a smaller aperture to give yourself more leeway in terms of depth of field. If you’re used to relying on a modern autofocus system to lock on and track your subjects, then try experimenting with center-point autofocus and learning to be a little more nimble when composing. Also, try learning new techniques like back button focus to improve your skills so you don’t have to rely on the camera doing all the heavy lifting for you.

Limitations can be a good thing

Ironically, sometimes the limitations of older cameras can actually help you get better pictures because you have to improve your photography skills in order to compensate for the camera’s shortcomings.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

For example, using the ultra-fast burst mode on a modern camera can actually impede your ability to get good shots. Using an older camera without that feature can force you to plan your shots, think about things like composition, and how you want your subject framed within the elements of the picture, and ultimately get better pictures as a result.

My point is that if you find yourself using an old camera, whether a basic DSLR or one that used to be the cream of the crop in its heyday, you should know what you’re getting in to beforehand. Plan around its limitations so you’re not frustrated or confused when you are trying to take pictures.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

In-camera focus stacking, flip-out LCD screens, and hundreds of autofocus points are nice and can certainly help you get better shots. But often the key to getting better shots is to simply study the fundamentals and hone your basic skills.

Work on understanding exposure, lighting, and composition. Know how to control the camera you have in order to get the shots you want regardless of whether the camera is brand new or well past its prime.

Know your camera’s capabilities

One thing that consistently surprises me when shooting with older cameras is just how much they can actually do. While they might not have touchscreens and built-in GPS, it’s not uncommon to find highly advanced tools such as a plethora of metering modes, Auto-ISO controls, customizable bracketing options, and a variety of autofocus options.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

A top-of-the-line camera from 2005 may not compete with the cream of the crop today, but when it was released it had to appeal to demanding professionals and advanced amateurs which required a certain set of features and capabilities. Even basic models like the early Canon Digital Rebels, which were aimed at consumers and hobbyists, had all sorts of features that may surprise you if you’re used to modern models.

If you shoot with older gear, either an old camera you’ve had for a while or something you picked up online or in a thrift store, take some time to get to know it. Go to the manufacturer’s website, download the manual, and really get to know what it can do. Dig through the menus and experiment with the various options. Find a willing helper and test out its various modes and features. You may just be surprised at how capable and useful these older cameras can really be.

How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera

Conclusion

I often get asked for camera recommendations and I like to suggest that people take a serious look at used cameras and lenses. Check reputable online websites that sell these sorts of things for significantly less than shiny new cameras you will find on store shelves. Just because a camera has been put out pasture doesn’t mean it’s not worth using. In fact, the money saved by buying older gear could be put to good use in other ways.  An investment in better lenses, a tripod, or even educational materials that can advance your skills in much more significant ways than simply buying a new camera.

What about you? Do you shoot with an older camera or are you considering buying one? What tips and tricks do you have for getting the most out of these types of cameras? Please leave your thoughts and questions in the comments section below.

The post How to Get Great Photos with an Old Camera by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Advertising Giants: America’s Amazing Muffler Men

27 Aug

[ By Steve in Design & Graphics & Branding. ]

Before Mad Men there were Muffler Men – 20-foot tall fiberglass statues cast in the thousands to advertise roadside businesses from coast to coast.

Muffler Men are one of the most enduring forms of mid-century American commercial art though the fact that so many were made – and their near-indestructible fiberglass composition – means that a substantial number of these iconic jumbo figurines still stand (literally) today. Muffler Men like “Babe”, snapped by Flickr member Wayne Stadler in 2016, might seem to be a product of post-war optimism and economic enthusiasm but the first one didn’t actually appear until 1962… and he didn’t even carry a muffler.

Our plastic fantastic progenitor was modeled after legendary giant woodsman Paul Bunyan and instead of a car muffler he gripped a big ol’ double-edged ax. The 1960s postcard above (courtesy of Flickr member Allen) stood outside the former Lumberjack Café on Route 66 in Flagstaff, Arizona, where a second statue soon joined the first.

In 1973 the café re-opened as Granny’s Closet, a restaurant in no need of giant lumbermen. In 1992, both figures were moved to the Northern Arizona University (“Home of the Lumberjacks”) campus in Flagstaff where they guard the the J. Lawrence Walkup Skydome.

Hands Across America

The period from roughly 1955 through 1965 was the heyday of Programmatic Architecture, and Muffler Men arrived on the scene when the scene was jumpin’! At least, that’s what Steve Dashew of International Fiberglass must have been thinking when he bought out Prewitt Fiberglass in 1963. Bob Prewitt had designed the Lumberjack Café’s statue and more importantly, the moulds: the heavy lifting had already been done, so to speak. Muffler Men – the term arose from a deal with a nationwide chain of muffler shops – began springing up left, right and center. Flickr member Thomas Crenshaw snapped this snazzily-painted and uber-patriotic example in August of 2012. You wish you looked as good when you’re sixty!

Take This Job & Shovel It

More than a few Muffler men made it across the Canadian border where they were employed similarly to their Yankee brethren. The shovel-wielding roadside giant above hails from Calgary, Alberta where he was snapped by Flickr member Wayne Stadler on a frigid January 2016 day, standing in front of Calgary Tunnelling & Horizontal Augering Ltd. As with most true Muffler Men, paint and minor details such as beards, hats and whatnot may vary between figures but the hands – one upturned, the other downturned – are dead giveaways as to the figures’ origin.

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Advertising Giants Americas Amazing Muffler Men

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[ By Steve in Design & Graphics & Branding. ]

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10 Quick Tips for Travel Photography

27 Aug

Here is a really quick video for you from the gang over at COOPH (Cooperative of Photography) with 10 tips for travel photography.

Enjoy, and check out the links to stuff mentioned in the video below it.

Links to things mentioned in the video

For more a more detailed tutorial on how to remove tourists check out: How to Remove People from Your Photos Using Photoshop

For sharing prints with people when you travel you might want to consider a Fuji Instax printer. Portable enough to take with you, prints photos from your Smartphone or tablet.

For backing up your images on the road, read the following:

  • How to Backup and Manage Your Photos When Traveling Without a Computer
  • Step by Step Plan for Backing Up Your Images While Traveling

Then grab one of the G-Technology drives shown in the video (the tough black and blue ones)

Shoot at sunrise: 4 Reasons Shooting at Sunrise and Sunset Will Help You Take Better Photos

Lastly, more on using framing in your compositions: Tips for Using Natural Framing to Improve Your Composition

Your turn

Do you have any other good quick tips for travel photography you want to share with us? Please do so in the comments below.

The post 10 Quick Tips for Travel Photography by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Should you upgrade to a Nikon D850?

27 Aug

Should you upgrade to a Nikon D850?

The D850 was just announced, and by all accounts it’s shaping up to be a very impressive camera. Depending on what kind of photography you prefer, the D850 might be a useful upgrade to a current Nikon DSLR, and a compelling alternative for someone looking to switch from a rival system.

In this article, I’m going to imagine that you’re interested in the D850, and considering it to replace or sit alongside your current camera. For the sake of maintaining focus on spec and performance, I’m also going to assume that you’re fine spending $ 3300, plus another $ 900 or so for the optional grip and a D5 battery + charger, if you want to take the D850 up to 9 fps. Where money is mentioned at all, it’s mostly where the D850 costs substantially more than the camera you might be considering upgrading or switching from.

Mostly I’ll be focusing on how the D850 stacks up against other current and previous-generation Nikon DSLRs, but I’ve added three slides at the end of this article, giving a basic picture of how it compares against competitive full-frame cameras from Canon, Ricoh and Sony.

Should you upgrade from a D810? Maybe.

Let’s start with perhaps the most obvious question – is the D850 enough of an upgrade to justify replacing its predecessor, the D810 (shown on the left, above)? The answer, predictably, is ‘maybe’.

On the one hand, while the changes from the D800/e to the D810 were relatively minor, the D850 has been substantially updated across the board. On the other, the D810 is still a great camera, and for some kinds of photography, the D850’s extra features might reasonably be considered ‘nice to have’, but not essential.

Even if you mostly shoot static subjects with your D810, the D850 still has a lot to offer

Obviously the D850 offers greater resolution and a major speed increase, but more important (we think) is the completely overhauled AF system, which should provide class-leading autofocus on a par with the D5 and D500 – as well as inheriting those cameras’ automatic AF fine-tuning feature. AF sensitivity down to -3EV is a major improvement over the D810 which (for reasons we could never really figure out) was pretty unreliable in poor light.

And even if you mostly shoot static subjects with your D810, the D850 still has a lot to offer. Ergonomically, the new camera is much improved. A tilting, touch-sensitive rear LCD is really handy for tripod-mounted photography, and illuminated controls are a game-changer for astrophotography and landscape shooting in low light. The D850 is more comfortable to hold, too.

Just about the only use-case where the D850 might not represent a useful upgrade to a D810 is for tethered studio shooting, where you don’t need things like autofocus or continuous shooting. But even here, the D850’s tilting rear screen might end up being very handy.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • More resolution
  • Greater speed
  • Better autofocus, including superior low-light sensitivity
  • Improved ergonomics
  • Illuminated controls
  • Tilting, touch-sensitive screen
  • 4K video

Stick with your D810 if:

  • You mostly shoot in a studio
  • You really need a built-in flash

Should you upgrade from a D800/E? Yes.

If you skipped the D810 and still shoot with a D800 or D800E, the choice is easier. There isn’t a single use case that I can think of where the D850 won’t substantially outperform your camera, or at least make your life easier as a photographer.

the 4K-capable D850 is a much more attractive option for occasional video work

If you shoot landscapes, you’ll get better base ISO dynamic range, less risk of mirror and shutter-induced vibration ruining your shot, and greater resolution. You’ll also appreciate the backlit controls and a tilting screen. If you shoot portraits and events, the D850 will probably prove more comfortable to use, as well as offering a much improved AF system with greater coverage and an automatic fine-tuning capability. The 4K-capable D850 is also a much more attractive option for occasional video work, if required.

For sports or wildlife photography the D850’s wider, better autofocus system should take your photography to another level, and the deeper buffer and maximum continuous shooting rate of up to 9 fps (with optional grip and battery) is a nice upgrade over the five year-old D800/E, too.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • More resolution
  • Better Raw dynamic range (at ISO 64)
  • Greater speed
  • Better autofocus
  • Less risk of mirror/shutter vibration
  • Improved ergonomics
  • Illuminated controls
  • 4K video.

Stick with your D800/E if:

  • You mostly shoot in a studio
  • You really need a built-in flash

Should you upgrade from a D750? Maybe.

The Nikon D750 is a fine camera, and despite its age (knocking on for three years now) it remains the DSLR that we probably recommend most, to anyone looking to upgrade to full-frame. Partly this is because it offers excellent performance and a solid feature set in an impressively small form-factor, but also because over the past couple of years it’s price has dropped to a level where it’s simply one of the best value DSLRs on the market.

The D850 is a lot more camera than the D750, but it also costs a lot more money. If you have the cash though, the D850 is a solid upgrade. One obvious benefit is resolution. Where the D750 features a 24MP sensor, the D850 basically doubles the pixel-count, which should equate to a substantial increase in effective resolution (provided your lenses are up to the challenge). At ISO 64, the D850’s Raw dynamic range will probably be considerably better, too, which can be very useful for several different use-cases.

Despite its larger file sizes, the D850 is a faster, more powerful camera than the D750

Despite its larger file sizes, the D850 is a faster, more powerful camera than the D750. Its autofocus system should be roughly on a par with the flagship D5 (which really means that it should be better than anything else on the market, when it comes to tracking) and while straight out of the box, the D850’s continuous shooting rate of 7 fps is similar to the D750, adding the optional grip and higher-capacity battery takes it up to 9 fps. The D750 (shown above, with and without its own optional grip) maxes out at 6.5fps regardless of configuration.

That extra speed doesn’t come cheap, though. If you don’t have a bunch of cash to throw around, the D750 is likely to remain pretty competitive for a while yet and except for some niche use-cases (like astrophotography) it should serve you well.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • Significantly greater resolution
  • Greater speed (with the grip + D5 battery)
  • Better autofocus
  • Better Raw dynamic range (at ISO 64)
  • Touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • Illuminated controls
  • Better weather-sealing
  • 4K video

Stick with your D750 if:

  • You don’t shoot fast action
  • You don’t shoot in low light
  • You don’t need the extra resolution
  • You really need a built-in flash

Should you upgrade from a D700? Definitely.

So you’re still rocking a D700? Good for you. There’s nothing wrong with that – the D700 was and remains a very capable camera. But after almost ten years, it has been bettered by several subsequent Nikon DSLRs, in several respects. Comparing the D700 to the D850 is like comparing an Apple II to a MacBook Pro. As nostalgic as I am for the older technology, if I had a job to do, I know which tool I’d rather use.

Stop reading and order a D850 now

So – assuming you have the funds, you should stop reading and order a D850 now. Just do it. Why are you still reading? Go!

I’d recommend keeping your D700 as a backup, though. And that’s not just me being sentimental – these days, it might not be worth enough when traded in to make much of a difference to the upgrade cost.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • All of the reasons

Stick with your D700 if:

  • Your lucky number is 7

Should you upgrade from a D500? Probably not.

If you’re currently shooting with a D500, the question of whether you should upgrade to the D850 is a bit more complicated. Because they’re such different cameras, on balance I wouldn’t recommend replacing a D500 with a D850. But if you have the cash, the D850 would make an excellent companion to a D500, fulfilling a slightly different set of requirements.

The 20MP D500 is a high-speed, relatively low-resolution DSLR, with a very wide AF area. This makes it ideal for shooting sports and wildlife, where its 1.5X crop factor can be extremely useful. It’s weather-sealed, and offers many of the same ergonomic refinements that make the D850 a more pleasant camera to use than previous-generation D800-series DSLRs.

The D850 offers substantially greater resolution, a nice bump in Raw dynamic range, and a feature set better suited to landscape and studio work

The D850 on the other hand offers substantially greater resolution, what’s likely to be a nice bump in Raw dynamic range at ISO 64, and a feature set better suited to landscape and studio work, as well as portraiture and astrophotography. The D850 can also shoot 4K video without a crop, making it more useful for occasional video work than the D500, too.

The only caveat here is that if you’ve built up a collection of DX format lenses for your D500, you’ll need to drop even more cash on some full-frame zooms or primes for the D850. Hopefully though, Nikon’s conspicuously-crummy DX-format lens lineup has already prompted you to invest in full-frame glass.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • Greater resolution
  • Greater dynamic range
  • 4K video with no crop

Stick with your D500 if:

  • You mostly shoot sports / wildlife (or anything where the 1.5X crop and greater AF coverage is handy)
  • You don’t have any full-frame lenses

Should you upgrade from a D4/S? Probably.

If you’re shooting with a D4, or D4S, there are very few reasons why the D850 would do the same, or a better job for you than your existing camera. Arguably, the only significant point in the D4/S’s favor at this point is durability. The D800-series are tough, solid cameras but they’re not built to withstand the same kind of abuse as Nikon’s flagship pro sports models.

And… that’s about it.

The value of the D4/Ss 11 fps continuous shooting is somewhat moot when you consider that the D850 can manage 9 fps with a couple of (admittedly expensive) accessories, and the additional stamina of the D4/S’s larger battery is unlikely to prove a to be a deal-breaker for most photographers. The D4/S offers a Gigabit Ethernet port, but outside of shooting in a major sports stadium, that’s not a feature that most of us are ever likely to need.

At 7-9 fps the D850’s huge files will rip through memory cards, so it’s not a camera you want to take to the Olympic Games

Then there’s resolution. The D4/S are built for working photojournalists that need speed, durability and versatility. And part of ‘versatility’ in this context is a relatively low pixel count of 16MP, which while big enough for print and online media, isn’t so big that file sizes become an issue when shooting at high frame rates for extended periods of time, or wiring images back to a picture desk. At 7-9 fps the D850’s huge files will rip through memory cards, so it’s probably not a camera you want to take to the Olympic Games. But at 45MP, those files are much more versatile for general use.

When you consider that the D850 also features a next-generation autofocus system, more versatile rear LCD and 4K video capture, it really does look like a solid upgrade over a D4/S. And of course without the optional grip it’s considerably smaller and lighter, too.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • Greater resolution
  • Better Raw dynamic range
  • Better autofocus system
  • Tilting, touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • Smaller and lighter body
  • 4K video

Stick with your D4/S if:

  • You need the ultimate in durability and stamina
  • You use a specific pro-oriented feature (i.e, wired Gigabit Ethernet)

Should you switch systems and buy a D850?

I’m not going to attempt to comprehensively answer this question because a) it’s unanswerable, and b) I get enough hate-mail already. But whenever one of the major manufacturers brings out a new flagship model, it is reasonable (and if nothing else – interesting) to consider how well it stacks up against competitive models. So here goes…

Compared to the Sony a7R II

Compared to Sony’s a7R II, the D850 is likely to be superior as a strictly stills camera. It’s tougher, offers vastly better battery life, slightly higher resolution, probably better dynamic range at base ISO, and ergonomically it’s more refined. While it lacks in-camera stabilization, features like illuminated controls and touch-sensitivity are the kind of little extras that will, I suspect, end up being hugely appreciated by some photographers.

For a stills-oriented user the D850 is probably the smarter option

The a7R II is a superior video camera, and as such a better hybrid camera, but for a stills-oriented user the D850 is probably the smarter option. I don’t want to get too deep into the thorny question of lenses, but it’s also worth considering that while Sony’s E-mount is relatively new, the D850 is fully compatible with a huge number of high-quality AF and manual focus lenses, going back decades.

The newer Sony a9 is more competitive when it comes to core stills photography performance, but of course at a much lower resolution.

Points in the D850’s favor:

  • (Slightly) higher resolution
  • Wider dynamic range (at ISO 64)
  • Tougher, more durable build
  • Touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • Illuminated controls
  • Much better battery life
  • Wider range of compatible lenses

Points in the a7R II’s favor:

  • Better video specification
  • In-camera image stabilization
  • On-sensor PDAF in live view and movie modes
  • Smaller, lighter body

Compared to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV

Compared to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, the D850 is likely to be superior in almost every measurable respect, as both a stills and video capture device. It is faster, offers greater resolution, wider Raw dynamic range, probably better high ISO image quality, a much better autofocus system, more versatile ergonomics, and a more practical 4K video capture option (as well as focus peaking for HD video capture).

The EOS 5D IV offers Canon’s peerless Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and movie modes, which is a major advantage

But I did say almost every respect. Importantly, the EOS 5D IV offers Canon’s peerless Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and movie modes, which is a major advantage over the Nikon and makes it a much more usable camera in some situations. The D850’s live view AF is clumsy by comparison.

I’d also note the fact that Canon is on a roll with its current high-end zoom lenses. Newer L-series zooms, like the EF 11-24mm F4, EF 16-35mm F2.8 III and 24-70mm F2.8 II are truly excellent. Nikon’s equivalent wide zoom options aren’t quite as good (and in the case of the 14-24mm F2.8 just plain old) by comparison. Less quantifiable but still worth noting is that many photographers simply prefer Canon’s control interface.

Points in D850’s favor:

  • Greater resolution
  • Wider dynamic range
  • Better autofocus
  • Faster continous shooting
  • Tilting rear LCD
  • Full-frame 4K

Points in 5D Mark IV’s favor:

  • Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and video
  • (Arguably) more user-friendly user interface

Compared to the Ricoh Pentax K-1

I said earlier that I didn’t want to get any hate-mail, and with that in mind, I would be a fool not to mention the perennial ‘don’t forget the…’ camera of our age: the Ricoh Pentax K-1.

In terms of image quality, the K-1’s 36MP sensor is basically on a level with the original D800/E, and while perfectly usable for static subjects, when the going gets tough, its autofocus system can’t compete with any recent generation of Nikon’s wide-area AF arrays in its high-end APS-C or full-frame cameras. Oh, and it can’t shoot 4K video either. As such, for most applications it lags behind the D850 as both as a stills and video platform.

The K-1’s feature set been very nicely tweaked to suit the needs of landscape and outdoor photographers

Where the K-1 shines is weather-sealing (always a Pentax strength), built-in image stabilization, and an interface and feature set that have been very nicely tweaked to suit the specific needs of landscape and outdoor photographers. Its multi-angle articulating screen and illuminated controls are really handy, likewise built-in GPS, and various sensor-shifting modes that are available to increase color resolution, simulate the effect of an AA filter, keep your horizons level, and to track stars. Oh, and it’s much cheaper, too.

Points in D850’s favor:

  • Greater resolution
  • Wider dynamic range
  • Better autofocus
  • Faster continuous shooting
  • Touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • 4K movie capture
  • Greater number of (modern) lens options

Points in K-1’s favor:

  • In-camera stabilization
  • Various clever sensor-shift modes
  • Built-in GPS
  • Multi-angle rear LCD
  • It’s cheaper

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Travel Photos

27 Aug

Going anywhere exciting soon? Or have you recently gotten back from a trip? Now is your chance to share your travel photos!

Weekly Photography Challenge – Travel Photos

Credit: Photo by Tomo Nogi on Unsplash

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Travel Photos by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Hegel phenomenology of spirit full text pdf

27 Aug

Karl Barth described Hegel as a “Protestant Aquinas”, some historians have spoken of Hegel phenomenology of spirit full text pdf’s influence as represented by two opposing camps. Philosopher and science theorist Dirk Hartmann holds that Geist is today understood as a so, parts as steps in its own process of comprehension. Lebanon Valley College in […]
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Four Ways to Use Snapshots in Lightroom

27 Aug

What’s Lightroom’s most underrated feature? If you ask five different photographers you’ll probably get at least six answers. But for me, it’s Snapshots.

Lightroom snapshots

Unused and unloved – that was the fate of Snapshots in my Lightroom workflow for many years. It’s taken me a long time to appreciate how useful they are. For most of that time, I used Virtual Copies when I needed to create different versions of the same photo. But now I use Snapshots, and it’s made life a lot easier.

Why use Snapshots in Lightroom?

Let’s look at why you would use Snapshots or Virtual Copies.

One of the benefits of a Raw file is that you can interpret the file in many different ways in Lightroom. The most obvious example is that you could create both a color version of an image and a black and white one.

How to use Snapshots in Lightroom

Two versions of the same photo created in Lightroom from the same Raw file.

There are so many different ways of developing a photo in Lightroom that’s easy to make multiple versions of the same image. Sometimes it’s difficult to know when to stop! Especially if you have a large collection of Develop Presets.

Snapshots are the easiest way to keep track of all the different versions you make of a photo.

What is a Snapshot?

A Snapshot captures all the work you have done on a photo at a particular point in a time.

Snapshots are related to the entries in the History panel. You can turn any entry in the History panel into a Snapshot by right-clicking and choosing, Create Snapshot. Snapshots save you time because you don’t have to go searching through the History panel for the point you’d like to revert to.

Lightroom Snapshots

Some of the History panel entries for a photo I developed in Lightroom. It’s nearly impossible to pick the correct entry if you want you to go back to an earlier version of the photo.

How to create a Snapshot

There are two ways to create a Snapshot.

1. Go to Develop > New Snapshot (or use the Cmd-N [Mac] / Ctrl-N [PC] keyboard shortcut.)

Lightroom creates a Snapshot from the current Develop module settings. You can give it a name or use the default (current date and time).

Lightroom Snapshots

2. Right-click on an entry in the History panel and choose, Create Snapshot. Lightroom creates a Snapshot from the settings applied to the photo at that point in the development history.

Lightroom Snapshots

Reasons to use Snapshots

Now you know how to create a Snapshot, let’s look at some ways you can use them.

1. To record where you are in the Develop module

When you’re developing photos in Lightroom you may find yourself arriving a point where you are about to go off in a different direction. For example, let’s say you want to make both a color and a black and white version of the same image. You might start off by developing it in color. When you are finished, you make a Snapshot.

Then, you can convert it to black and white. When you’re done, make another Snapshot. You can then switch between the two versions by clicking on the appropriate Snapshot. See what that might look like below.

Lightroom Snapshots

2. To test out Develop Presets

Let’s say you would like to apply some Develop Presets to your photo, but you are not sure which ones are best. For example, I often develop my portraits using my Vintage Portrait Presets for Lightroom. There are 30 presets in the pack, and I don’t know in advance which ones will work best.

Using Snapshots, you can go through the entire set. When you find a preset that you like, you can create a Snapshot quickly using the keyboard shortcut Cmd-N [Mac] / Ctrl-N [PC].

At the end, you will have several Snapshots. You can then click on them one by one to see which preset you prefer. For example, I applied five different Vintage Portrait Presets to this portrait and saved each as a Snapshot. In the end, I decided the Vintage 19 preset was my favorite.

Lightroom Snapshots

Tip: Rename the Snapshot you decide is the one you like best to something like “Preset name [final]” so you can remember which one it is. You can also delete the other Snapshots by right-clicking and choosing, Delete.

3. To make comparisons

There’s an easy way to compare two Snapshots to see which version you like best.

Start by right-clicking on the first Snapshot and selecting Copy Snapshot Settings to Before. Then click on the second Snapshot to apply it to the photo you are developing. Use the backslash (\) keyboard shortcut to switch between the before and current settings to make the comparison.

You can also cycle between the Before/After views by clicking the icon marked below in the Toolbar (use the T keyboard shortcut to display the Toolbar if you can’t see it).

Using the Before/After comparison to compare two Snapshots.

4. To take the place of Virtual Copies

At the beginning of the article, I mentioned that I use Snapshots instead of Virtual Copies. The main reason is that Virtual Copies are difficult to keep track of.

For example, let’s say you create four Virtual Copies of a photo, each one developed a different way. To start with, they are probably all in the same Collection. As time goes by you may create more Virtual Copies of the same photo. This is quite common – many photographers change the way they develop photos as their style evolves and Adobe adds new tools to Lightroom.

A problem arises when those new Virtual Copies are in different Collections to the originals. Suddenly you have a situation where Virtual Copies are scattered across your Catalog. That makes it nearly impossible to see how many Virtual Copies of a photo you have created.

Snapshots solve that problem. With Snapshots, there is only ever one version of your photo in the Catalog. You never have to go hunting for missing Virtual Copies. All you need to do to see the different versions of your photo is click on the Snapshot name.

Lightroom Snapshots

This photo has 9 Snapshots. If they were Virtual Copies instead it would be much harder to keep track of them.

Tip: What happens if you make a Snapshot and then update the settings? The Snapshot doesn’t change as it’s intended to record the state of a photo at the point in time you made it. But it’s easy to update the Snapshot. Just right-click on the Snapshot’s name and choose, Update with Current Settings.

Conclusion

Hopefully, now you can see why Snapshots are both useful and under-appreciated. If you have a problem with too many Virtual Copies in your Catalog then try using Snapshots instead to see if they solve your problem.

And of course, if you have any questions about using Snapshots in Lightroom then please let me know in the comments below.


If you’d like to learn more about Lightroom, including great tips like the one in this article, then please check out my popular Mastering Lightroom ebooks. You’ll be making the most of Lightroom in no time.

The post Four Ways to Use Snapshots in Lightroom by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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