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Archive for November, 2015

Tips for Creating Outdoor Portraits

27 Nov

On now at Snapsdeals is Wayne’s ebook: Portrait Tips and Techniques: Timeless Portraits. Sale ends December 8th (2015) get it now and save 20%.

These tips are a follow-up to my previous article about 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits, and the process of creating simple posing and composition for outdoor portraits. To me, these things are what refines a portrait. You can have the perfect lighting conditions and location, but if the subject looks awkward or the composition is unbalanced, the image will fail aesthetically.

Each of these images will give you some tips and understanding of the creative process for creating outdoor portraits:

#1 – Creating back-view portraits

DPS 1

Creating interactive back-view portraits is fairly easy. In the portrait above I asked the two older boys to put their hands in their pockets, and start walking slowly in a specific direction. Of course the youngest one followed and mimicked his big brothers.

Ideally you want to get your subjects to talk to each other while walking and watch for the unexpected reactions. Getting them to talk about sports, school holidays or any interests they have, will make them more cooperative and loosen them up, making the portrait more natural looking.

I suggest you use continuous autofocus and a zoom lens for these types of portraits. This was taken with a 70-200mm lens at f/4. The original image of the three boys was the normal 3:2 rectangle, but in post production I decided on a square.

#2 – Interactive poses

DPS 2

Same three boys in an interactive pose. I set this shot up like a movie director, by simply giving them some direction of what to do, then let them go, and recorded their reactions. Just letting them walk around and happy snapping doesn’t work for me. I prefer to place them in the scene I want, based on background and lighting, tell them what to do and then record their natural reactions.

In this study I placed the boys away from the headland, so they were against the sky, and let them kick a piece of driftwood around. A ball would have been another option. The composition I used is the Rule of Thirds which can be seen at the bottom of this article.

When doing these types of environmental portraits, I suggest you create it like a landscape, then place the subjects into it.

#3 – Find the light and pose for the subject

DPS 3

After establishing the location, background, and direction of light, I placed the the young girl near the edge of the path, her body turned away from the camera at approximately 45 degrees to the camera, her head turned back to camera.

There was a building to her left, which was subtracting light from the left hand side of her face. The umbrella was the client’s prop, which I decided to use. I felt that her hair would have blended into the background otherwise, but this way her head is framed by the contrast of the umbrella. I like the way she was holding on to the umbrella, it simplifies her hands from being a distraction.

If she had been older, I would have asked her to bend her front knee, therefore placing her weight on the back foot, creating an s-curve through her body. There was a temptation to place her to camera right, thereby in the RH third, but I chose the opposite side for a different look. No right or wrong reason, just my preference.

#4 – Connect people to each other and the background with posing

DPS 4

In the portrait of the children above, I wanted to place them between the old shed and the fence line, allowing their heads to appear against the soft muted tones of the out of focus trees. Having secondary backgrounds like the shed and fence against the distant background of trees can add extra depth, giving a more three dimensional look.

The pose is natural, with a small amount of refinement. I like the subjects to turn away from the camera, then look back, rather than shoulders square on to camera. Also by leaning the outside subjects to the centre, it creates more emotion through body language, which also creates a slightly more triangular composition (by luck matching the shed roofline).

The varying heights of the children allows each of them to have their own space. Often you will see heads in a row on the same plane. Note the simplicity of the hands, curled away from camera or in their pockets, not draped over the shoulders. Also with the two girls holding hands, and the youngest one leaning across towards her brother, it creates a connection within the group.

#5 – Match tones for high or low key portraits

DPS 5

When creating high key or pastel portraits, it’s important to “key-in” the clothing colours to the background. For example: white against white, or cream against cream, or soft muted tones against other muted tones, NOT light on dark. The idea is to be drawn to the face, not the contrast between backgrounds.

This young boy (above) has great eyes, so we don’t want to be looking anywhere else but his face. His karate outfit is white, but for my artistic license, I changed it slightly to harmonize more with the background. In the black and white version for the client, I left it white.

The pose is simple, and he is square to camera, with his body and head leaning more to his left. His head is also tilted slightly down, which allows us to see the full roundness under his eyes. I find this pose more engaging for him. Composition is close to the Rule of Thirds but I do prefer the Golden Triangle. (See below)

#6 – Camera angle is important

DPS 6

A low camera angle was selected for this portrait to bring the viewer down to the child’s level. Also by lowering the camera, this places her head above the gates in a neutral uncluttered area, allowing her face to stand out from the background. Another advantage is that the low angle causes the lens to blur the foreground so much, that it leads you directly to the sharp subject.

Again the subject is angled away from the camera and her head is turned back to camera. Her hands are naturally placed.

It’s very important to remember when posing children or adults, to turn the body and legs away from the camera to avoid unflattering crotch shots of all ages. If you don’t know how to pose hands, give a child something to hold, failing that, hide them as much as possible. Personally I recommend learning how to pose them to look natural, and then you will recognize when they’re not correct, and be able refine the pose.

Summary

DPS 7

  • Avoid the body and face being posed in the same direction.
  • Try keeping the face at about 45 degrees to the body as a starting point.
  • When seated, avoid knees and feet/shoes pointing directly at the camera. Turn them away.
  • Direct children to do natural things when creating interactive portraits such as talking to each other, kicking a ball, reading, etc. This will create realism.
  • Always watch your background, and give your subjects their own space to avoid a busy image.
  • Use hands to touch, and overlap bodies to create poses that have a connection between people. (E.g. the three kids above)
  • Try to shape poses to replicate objects that may be in the composition.
  • When possible, key-in clothing colours to harmonize or compliment background tones. (E.g. photo # 5)
  • Select a low camera angle when photographing kids. Get down to their level or below.
  • Use foreground blurring to make your subject pop. (E.g. photo #6)
  • Use the Rule of Thirds or the Golden Mean as a starting point for improving your composition.

On now at Snapsdeals is Wayne’s ebook: Portrait Tips and Techniques: Timeless Portraits. Sale ends December 8th (2015) get it now and save 20%.

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Was für die Augen: Monitor EIZO CS270

27 Nov

Titelbild EIZO CS270 Artikel

Als selbstständiger Fotograf macht man sich in der Anfangszeit der eigenen Karriere viele Gedanken um alles Mögliche. Welche Kamera ist robust genug für meine Tätigkeit? Welche Objektive brauche ich? Wie gestalte ich meinen Workflow?
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5 Tips for Photographing Your Own Children Stress-Free

27 Nov

As a mother to three little ones, I can say without any doubt nor a moment’s hesitation, that my kids are my most difficult subject – ever. My usual tips and tricks with other families, simply do not work with my own kids, and I have to employ new strategies along with controlling my own emotions. So yes, I do fully understand, despite my profession, the despair and frustration many of you parents go through when capturing photos of your very own children.

But, fear not! Below are my top five tips for taking the stress out of photographing your own children.

Stress free photography tips03

1. Prepare yourself mentally

Keep your expectations realistic so that even if only one photo comes out decent, you can consider the shoot a success!

2. Plan the photoshoot

Plan the shoot in advance – a long way in advance. The first step in planning is visualizing the photoshoot. Schedule the shoot in your diary. Do mental and physical preparations weeks before; raid the wardrobes to see what clothes the kids can wear, accessories they can use, what might you need to buy to add to the clothes if necessary. Decide which areas of your home you want to use for the shoot, and choose well-lit one, or if you are going to the local park plan the spot ahead of time. What toys and props, if any, can they play with that goes with the tone and colour of the shoot – for example favourite teddy, lego, craft sets, etc?

Stress free photography tips01

3. Talk about it with your kids – also way in advance

Chat informally to your kids about it far in advance, so they know it is happening at some point, and will not be taken by surprise. Slip it in conversation casually like it’s no big deal (of course it’s a huge deal) and that you are going to have some fun during the photoshoot.

4. On the day of the shoot

Leverage novelty and adventure.

If doing the shoot in your garden or patio set it up nicely so it’s a novelty. Keep it a surprise too, so you can capture their excitement. Use a tent for example or some buntings or teepee. Or better yet, take them to your local park for a little adventure or picnic. The important thing is to make the photoshoot a special experience for them.

Stress free photography tips04

De-clutter if doing the shoot in your home

Clear and prepare the areas you want them to sit in so they are free of clutter, and other objects you don’t want to be in the photos. Choose a spot with ample natural light, somewhere next to a window for example. Put some favourite toys in a bag nearby. Get your camera settings ready and put your camera to one side. Make a clear space where you want your child to sit, and a clear space for yourself as well. Take out one toy from the bag you have already prepared, and put it in the space for your child. Invite your child to play with it.

Look towards the light

Make sure your child is either facing the light, or that at least half of their face is in the light. Whatever camera you use, especially if you are not using manual mode, the more light there is – the less the chance of getting blurry photos. If you shoot in semi-automatic mode (such as Aperture or Shutter Priority), just make sure you set a minimum to your speed so that it’s fast enough, at 1/125th or higher to avoid blurry photos. You can also bump up your ISO to make your camera more sensitive to light. If you can change your aperture, change it to a low number (larger opening) such as f/3.5 or lower, so you let in more light and also get the blurry background effect.

Cheese…NOT!

It’s always nice to have a mixture of candid shots, and portraits, and your child need not smile at all. Steer clear of making them say “cheese”, as that almost always gets a fake-looking smile. Trying to get a genuine smile or laughter captured on camera isn’t always easy.

Stress free photography tips02

With younger children five and under, singing their favourite tunes and rhymes work well. If you have someone with you, get them to do silly things like crazy dancing, making bunny ears with their fingers behind your head, playing peek-a-boo and making toys dance behind you to some silly singing. The noisier, the sillier, the crazier – the better.

With older kids, talking about things they find hilarious is the key. Get in close so you can capture those expressions, the gappy teeth, the precious look in your child’s eyes. Ask them about their favourite activities and things that they LOVE, and you see those eyes begin to sparkle as they start talking candidly.

Use flash or a reflector if shooting backlit

If you want to shoot with a backlit effect so that your child is facing away from the light, you will need to use a flash or a reflector, otherwise you will end up with a silhouette. If there is some clear profile of the face or outline, a silhouette could be a very nice photo too.

Direct your flash

If there is not much light available, turn your camera’s flash on, but stick a card around the flash so that it directs the flash somewhat sideways, rather than firing the flash straight on which flattens the face and creates harsh shadows under the chin and jawline. Directing the flash provides light and shade. Bouncing the flash upwards or backwards gives you a natural look, as you are just using the flash as a little fill-light.

Take time to play

Play a little game with your child, talk, cuddle, create a relaxed atmosphere. Take some photos while your child is playing with the toys you have prepared. Interact with your child so you get photos of your child looking at you, as well as looking away, which are great candid shots.

Stress free photography tips05

Top tip: give your child an activity and make your child laugh. Be mindful of your child’s attention span.

The younger your child is, the shorter the attention span. Don’t offer all the toys at once. Stick to one area for a quick photoshoot, or if your child gets bored take the adventure into another spot nearby, and start fresh but keep that quick too.

If your child has had enough, it’s probably better to stop and continue another day. In my experience, the ages between one and three years are the most difficult time to get clear, sharp, and good photos of your own children. But don’t forget to take a snap or two of those pouts and long faces – the images may come in handy at their wedding reception many years down the line, as well as being a special memory.

5. Celebrate!

Stress free photography tips07

Stress free photography tips06

Have some snacks and little treats ready so you can celebrate afterwards. Even if you only manage to get ONE decent photo, it’s always good to celebrate. It makes the photoshoot a positive experience and will work in your favour at your next photoshoot. If you ended up with nothing, still celebrate that you had some play, snuggle, and cuddle moments together.

If the shoot does not go well at all, well there is always a next time…

Do you have any photos of your kids, or some other tips and tricks that have worked well for you? Please share in the comments below.

 

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25. November 2015

27 Nov

Das Bild des Tages von: joannes carolus

Ein Mann geht auf einer nebligen, roten Sandstraße durch ein Dorf.

Im Ausblick: Sound von Film, Katzen gegen Terror und Wasserfälle.
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Water Bed: Tow an Amphibious Mobile Shelter Behind Your Bike

27 Nov

[ By WebUrbanist in Boutique & Art Hotels & Travel. ]

mobile water bed

Combining the cheap convenience of a hostel with the outdoor access of a tent, this wheeled micro-dwelling can be carted behind a bicycle then lowered into the water for a night of floating fun.

wheeled bike nomadic

bike bed trail

Created by Royal College of Art (RCA) graduate Daniel Durnin, the shelter features a watertight bottom, canvass walls and operable wood-framed fenestration for viewing and circulation.

water bed on wheels

water bed nomadic

The tent-on-the-water approach renders urban lakes, rivers and streams suddenly more accessible, creating alternative campgrounds that take up no space on land. It is designed with city’s like Durnin’s own (London) in mind, places where waterways are more prevalent than unused grounds.

water tent floating

bike bed in water

“I hope that the work will reawaken our connection with nature using the waterways as a catalyst and restore balance to the more networked living space that we now inhabit, not just in London but across the globe,” says Durnin.

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Drei Wochen dunkle Kälte

27 Nov

© David Divjak

Ein Beitrag von: David Divjak

Es ist nun schon fast ein Jahr her, dass ich mit frischem Reisepass und Visum frühmorgens am Hamburger Flughafen stand. Ich habe einen großen Koffer bei mir, darin Klamotten für drei Wochen. Auf dem Rücken einen 10 kg schweren Rucksack gefüllt mit Metall, Glas und analogem Fotomaterial. Nach Russland soll es gehen, genauer gesagt nach St. Petersburg.
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26. November 2015

27 Nov

Das Bild des Tages von: Christian

Steinbock und Bergsteiger auf einer Bergwiese im Nebel.

Im Ausblick: Nordkorea, Selbstportraits und Vietnam.
kwerfeldein – Fotografie Magazin | Fotocommunity

 
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Building Up Iraq: World’s Tallest Skyscraper Planned for Basra

27 Nov

[ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Offices & Commercial. ]

worlds tallest

An ambitious proposal for a country in turmoil, this 3,780-foot building would be not only the tallest in the world but also taller than all structures currently in planning or under construction.

tallest building iraq

Composed of four connected towers, The Bride by AMBS Architects aims to exceed the Kingdom Tower slated for construction in Saudi Arabia as well as the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

sweeping veil

The mixed-use commercial, housing and office project includes a sweep veil providing shade for outdoor public spaces, parks, gardens and smaller buildings below. A net-zero structure, it is designed to produce more renewable energy than it consumes.

tallest building diagram

Its designers boast that the 1.5 million square foot structure will break new ground in engineering and vertical transportation. They also emphasize that its horizontality makes an intentional statement about inclusivity – the building is meant to serve more than just those who occupy its heights.

diagramatic

“Super-tall towers are perceived as an object in the distance,” said AMBS. “An alien planted in the city, disconnected from the urban scale at ground level. The Bride, on the other hand, will be conceived as a city itself both vertically but also horizontally from the ground.”

skyscraper basra

“It will be enjoyed by thousands of people in endless ways, within it, on it or under it, from walking in the vast shaded parks and promenades at ground level, to having lunch or shopping in a sky-square hundreds of metres above sea level.”

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The 20 Most Popular DSLR Lenses Among our Readers

26 Nov

Over the last few days we’ve published a post revealing the most popular DSLRs among our readers (based upon what they’ve been buying in the last few months).

Today we’re looking at the best selling and most popular DSLR Lenses*.

popular lenses

This list is completely dominated by Canon and Nikon lenses so we’ve decided to break them out separately into two lists and then have put the 6 other lenses (from a variety of manufacturers) into a third list.

Note: at this stage we didn’t see any major trends in lenses for compact camera systems which is why we’ve not featured any hear. We expect this market to grow as the mirroless/compact system cameras continue to grow in popularity.

Lastly: Amazon currently have some great specials at the moment on cameras and gear as part of their Holiday Promotions.

Canon DSLR Lenses

1. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens

71BuU2ZyOeL._SL1500_.jpg

2. Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens

61 egfIh2BL SL1500

3. Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

91fYqb6yGBL._SL1500_.jpg

4. Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM

81bWpDA6EyL._SL1500_.jpg

5. Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III

71qY4hAxpoL._SL1500_.jpg

6. Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

81XPZ7sQqsL._SL1500_.jpg

  1. Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS II Telephoto Zoom Lens
  2. Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Lens
  3. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom Lens
  4. Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM Telephoto Zoom Lens
  5. Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
  6. Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II SLR Lens
  7. Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L ll USM Zoom Lens
  8. Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM
  9. Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM
  10. Canon EF 50mm f/1.2 L USM

Nikon DSLR Lenses

1. Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX

71dJUbFOcEL._SL1500_.jpg

2. Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR FX

712T0jBdPhL._SL1500_.jpg

3. Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX

71Ehi1XZoxL._SL1500_.jpg

4. Nikon 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR

71dAI8JvOTL._SL1500_.jpg

5. Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II AF-S

81WvLB071IL SL1500

  1. Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED Vibration Reduction Zoom Lens
  2. Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF
  3. Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED Vibration Reduction Zoom Lens
  4. Nikon 50mm f/1.4G SIC SW Prime AF-S
  5. Nikon 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR AF-S DX
  6. Nikon 85mm f/1.8G AF-S
  7. Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G Vibration Reduction Zoom Lens
  8. Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S ED VR II
  9. Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S
  10. Nikon 40mm f/2.8G AF-S DX Micro

And also worth noting are the following other lenses made by other manufacturers.

Other DSLR Lenses

  1. Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 SLD DG Macro. (for Nikon DSLRs) Also available for Canon,Minolta and Sony and Pentax cameras.
  2. Sigma 18-250mm f3.5-6.3 DC MACRO (For Canon DSLRs). Also available for Nikon and Sony cameras.
  3. Opteka 6.5mm f/3.5 HD Aspherical Fisheye for Canon DSLRs.
  4. Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di LD Macro (for Canon DSLRs). Also available for Nikons, Konica Minolta and Sony and Pentax cameras.
  5. Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II (for Nikon DSLRs). Also available for Canon and Sony and Minolta cameras.
  6. Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di II (for Canon DSLRs), Nikon, Konica Minolta and Sony and Pentax.

*Note: as with our previous best seller lists this list was compiled from reports supplied to us from Amazon.com where we are affiliates. One of the ways dPS is able to cover its costs and be a sustainable business is that we earn a small commission when readers make a purchase from Amazon after clicking on our links (including those above). While no personal details are passed on we do get an overall report from Amazon about what was bought and are able to create this list.

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How to Save Images Using Export in Lightroom

26 Nov

Reader feedback tells me that some people are confused by Lightroom’s Export process. I think the confusion is caused by not completely understanding how Lightroom works, especially when processing Raw files. So let’s start by recapping the process that a single Raw file goes through when you import it into Lightroom.

How to export photos from Lightroom

1. Lightroom adds the Raw files to the Catalog

The Catalog is a database containing information about all the photo files you have imported into Lightroom (for further clarification on this process read my article How to Import Photos into Lightroom). Lightroom keeps track of the location (where it is saved on your hard drive) and metadata of each imported Raw file.

2. Open the Raw file in the Develop module and process the photo

The key thing to understand here that Lightroom keeps track of every single edit you make in the Develop module by storing them as a series of text commands in the Catalog. This means that (a) the Raw file itself remains unchanged and most importantly that (b) at this stage even though you can see it on your computer screen, you haven’t yet converted the Raw file into another format that other programs can use. This is where the Export function comes in.

JPEG and TIFF files

By the way, it’s a similar process if you are processing a JPEG or TIFF file. Lightroom saves the edits you make in the Lightroom Catalog, and doesn’t change the original file in any way. This only happens at the export stage, where you create a new version of the file that incorporates the changes. This is important to note, because it is different from the way Photoshop and Photoshop Elements work.

Exporting image files

All this means is that if you want to view or use your photos in a program other than Lightroom, you need to export them first and save them in a format that other programs understand.

There’s just one exception to this. If you go to Catalog Settings > Metadata and tick the Automatically write changes into XMP box, Lightroom will save the Develop settings in a .xmp file in the same folder as the original file. These files can be opened successfully using Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop.

Note: Export in Lightroom simply means: Save As! Just like in MS Word or any other program. 

The Export process

Now that you understand why you have to export photos, let’s see how to do it.

Start by selecting the photo, or photos, to be exported. It is easiest to do this in Grid View. Then go to File > Export to start the export process and bring up the Export window. This is what it looks like.

How to export photos from Lightroom

The Export to menu at the top defaults to Hard Drive. You can also choose to export the photos as email attachments, burn them to a CD/DVD or export them to a plug-in. For this article I am going to work on the basis that you have selected Hard Drive. The settings change slightly if you choose one of the other options.

Export Location

This is where you tell Lightroom where to save the exported files. Select “Ask what to do” or “Choose a new name” for the exported file from the Existing Files menu, to avoid accidentally overwriting existing files with the same name. Tick the Add to This Catalog box if you want to add the exported images to the Lightroom Catalog. This saves time that would otherwise be spent re-importing the new images.

How to export photos from Lightroom

File Naming

When exporting you can opt to keep the original file names, or create new ones. What you choose to do here depends partially on whether you created new file names at import, or kept the original names made by your camera. The most obvious use here is creating a naming format for images to be sent to clients. If you are exporting photos to send to a stock library, for example, the stock library will have its own file naming requirements that you need to stick to. You have the option of selecting one of Lightroom’s naming presets, or you can create your own by choosing Edit from the Rename To menu.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Video

Only applies if you are exporting video.

File Settings

This is where you select the format, quality, and colour space of exported files. It is important to get these settings correct, otherwise you risk creating files that are unsuitable for the intended purpose. There are five Image Format options to choose from:

JPEG: This format is for creating small files for sending to other people or uploading to websites.

For web use: Set Quality to between 60 and 80 and Color Space to sRGB. You may also wish to tick the Limit File Size box to ensure that files are below a certain size. If you are exporting photos to use on a web page, restricting file sizes to less than 150kb will help the page load faster in a browser. You also need to set the pixel size of the exported files under the Image Sizing heading.

For full size images: Set Quality to 100 and Color Space to sRGB. You should only select a Color Space other than sRGB if you instructions to do so (for example, you are sending the files to a magazine publisher who wants them in the AdobeRGB (1998) colour space).

How to export photos from Lightroom

PSD: This is for creating PSD files to work on in Photoshop. For maximum quality set Color Space to ProPhoto RGB and Bit Depth to 16 bits/component. This gives Photoshop all the available information for that image, and the highest quality possible.

How to export photos from Lightroom

TIFF: These files are large, 16 bit files similar to PSD files. For maximum quality set Compression to None, Color Space to ProPhoto RGB and Bit Depth to 16 bits/component. The assumption here is that you are creating the file to work on in Photoshop or another plug-in.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Note that the reason I recommend using ProPhoto RGB for both TIFF and PSD files is because I’m making the assumption that when you’re finished editing the photo you will then convert it to either sRGB or AdobeRGB (1998) afterwards. If you’re not sure what colour spaces are or how they work then my article Everything You Need to Know About Lightroom and Colour Space will help.

DNG: Use this setting to convert native Raw files to the DNG (Digital Negative) format. Tick the Embed Fast Load Data box to create DNG files that load faster in Lightroom.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Original: Retains the original photo file format. If the original is a Raw file, Lightroom exports the unmodified original, with a sidecar .XMP file containing the changes made in Lightroom.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Image Sizing

This option lets you alter the size of the image and set the resolution. Use this to upscale the photo for printing, or to create a smaller file for uploading to a website. If you simply want to export a full size version of your photo, you won’t need to alter any settings here.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Output Sharpening

Lets you add sharpening for display (Screen) or printing (Matte Paper and Glossy Paper). Select from three levels: Low, Standard and High. There is no need to sharpen if you are exporting photos to edit in another program such as Photoshop.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Metadata

Here you choose whether to include all metadata in the exported image, or just some of it. You may want to leave out Person Info (keywords that include people’s names) for privacy reasons, and Location Info for security or privacy reasons (for example, if you post a photo of your home online).

How to export photos from Lightroom

Watermark

Tick the Watermark box to add a watermark to your images. Select Edit Watermarks from the menu to create your own watermark. The main purpose of this is to add a copyright logo to photos that are going to be published online.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Post-Processing

Tell Lightroom what to do after exporting the images. Do Nothing is the most appropriate setting most of the time, but you may find the other options useful from time to time.

How to export photos from Lightroom

Export Presets

If you find yourself using the same export settings a lot, you can save them as a User Preset. Click the Add button in the bottom left corner of the Export window to do so. You’ll be prompted to enter a name for the Preset, and to select the folder to save it in (the default is User Presets).

How to export photos from Lightroom

As you can see, the export process in Lightroom is quite simple. If you have any questions about it, or indeed any questions about Lightroom, please let us know in the comments.


The Mastering Lightroom CollectionMastering Lightroom ebooks

My Mastering Lightroom ebooks will help you get the most out of Lightroom. They cover every aspect of the software from the Library module through to creating beautiful images in the Develop module. Click the link to learn more or buy.

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