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Archive for August, 2011

Nice Visual Art photos

10 Aug

Check out these visual art images:

Statui din expozitia “Gest si adevar” de Aurel Vlad, la Galeria Cuhnia
visual art
Image by cod_gabriel
Group of statues by Aurel Vlad, exhibited inside the "Cuhnia" art gallery (in fact, the kitchen of the Mogosoaia Palace near Bucharest).
The name of the exhibition is "Gesture and Truth".

Frist Center for the Visual Arts, nashville
visual art
Image by Chris DeLine

The Booth – interior
visual art
Image by Shetland Arts
The Booth is a live/work studio available for rent in Scalloway. It is run in partnership between Shetland Arts and Wasps Artists’ Studios in Glasgow.
Interior showing kitchen and sleep platform.

 
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Posted in Photographs

 

Patterns with Photoshop and the Offset Filter

10 Aug

In this tutorial, we’ll learn the basics of making and using simple repeating patterns in Photoshop. We’re just going to cover the essential steps here to get things started, but once you understand how repeating patterns work and how easy they are to create, you’ll quickly discover on your own that there’s virtually no limit to their creative potential in your designs, whether you’re building a simple background for a scrapbook or web page or using them as part of a more complex effect.

This tutorial will cover the three main parts to working with repeating patterns. First, we’ll design a single tile which will eventually become our repeating pattern. Next, we’ll learn how to save the tile as an actual pattern in Photoshop. Finally, with our new pattern created, we’ll learn how to select the pattern and make it repeat across an entire layer! In the next set of tutorials, we’ll take repeating patterns further by adding colors and gradients, using blend modes to blend multiple patterns together, creating patterns from custom shapes, and more!

I’ll be using Photoshop CS5 here, but the steps apply to any recent version of Photoshop.

Step 1: Create A New Document

Let’s begin by creating a single tile for the pattern. For that, we need a new blank document, so go up to the File menu in the Menu Bar along the top of the screen and choose New:


Go to File > New.

This opens the New Document dialog box. Enter 100 pixels for both the Width and Height. The document’s size will determine the size of the tile, which will affect how often the pattern repeats in the document (since a smaller tile will need more repetitions to fill the same amount of space than a larger tile would). In this case we’ll be creating a 100 px x 100 px tile. You’ll want to experiment with different sizes when creating your own patterns later. I’ll leave my Resolution value set to 72 pixels/inch. Set the Background Contents to Transparent so our new document will have a transparent background:


Enter the width and height of your document and make sure Background Contents is set to Transparent.

Click OK when you’re done to close out of the dialog box. The new document appears on your screen. The checkerboard pattern filling the document is Photoshop’s way of telling us that the background is transparent. Since the document is rather small at only 100 px x 100 px, I’ll zoom in on it by holding down my Ctrl (Win) / Command (Mac) key and pressing the plus sign ( + ) a few times. Here, the document is zoomed in to 500%:


The new blank document, zoomed in to 500%.

Step 2: Add Guides Through The Center Of The Document

We need to know the exact center of our document, and we can find it using Photoshop’s guides. Go up to the View menu at the top of the screen and choose New Guide:


Go to View > New Guide.

This opens the New Guide dialog box. Select Horizontal for the Orientation, then enter 50% for the Position. Click OK to close out of the dialog box, and you’ll see a horizontal guide appear through the center of the document:


Select Horizontal and enter 50% for the Position.

Go back up to the View menu and once again choose New Guide. This time in the New Guide dialog box, select Vertical for the Orientation and again enter 50% for the Position:


Select Vertical and enter 50% for the Position.


A vertical and horizontal guide runs through the center of the document.

Changing The Guide Color (Optional)

If you’re having trouble seeing the guides because of their light color, you can change their color in Photoshop’s Preferences. On a PC, go up to the Edit menu, choose Preferences, then choose Guides, Grid & Slices. On a Mac, go up to the Photoshop menu, choose Preferences, then choose Guides, Grid & Slices:


Select the Guides, Grid and Slices Preferences.

This opens Photoshop’s Preferences dialog box set to the Guides, Grid & Slices options. The very first option at the top of the list is Guide Color. As I mentioned, it’s set to Cyan by default. Click on the word Cyan and choose a different color from the list. You’ll see a preview of the color in the document window. I’ll change mine to Light Red:


Selecting Light Red as the new color for the guides.

Click OK when you’re done to close out of the Preferences dialog box. The guides in the document window now appear in the new color (note that Photoshop will continue to display guides in this new color until you go back to the Preferences and change the color back to Cyan or choose a different color):


The guides now appear in the new color, making them easier to see.

Step 3: Draw A Shape In The Center Of The Document

You can create very complex patterns in Photoshop, or they can be as simple as, say, a repeating dot or circle. Let’s draw a circle in the center of the document. First, select the Elliptical Marquee Tool from the Tools panel. By default, it’s hiding behind the Rectangular Marquee Tool, so click on the Rectangular Marquee Tool and hold your mouse button down for a second or two until a fly-out menu appears, then select the Elliptical Marquee Tool from the list:


Click and hold on the Rectangular Marquee Tool, then select the Elliptical Marquee Tool.

With the Elliptical Marquee Tool selected, move the crosshair directly over the intersection point of the guides in the center of the document. Hold down Shift+Alt (Win) / Shift+Option (Mac), click in the center of the document, then with your mouse button still held down, drag out a circular selection. Holding the Shift key as you drag will force the shape of the selection into a perfect circle, while the Alt (Win) / Option (Mac) key tells Photoshop to draw the selection outline from the center. When you’re done, your selection outline should look similar to this (don’t worry about the exact size as long as it’s close):


Hold down Shift+Alt (Win) / Shift+Option (Mac) and drag out a circular selection outline from the center.

Step 4: Fill The Selection With Black

Go up to the Edit menu at the top of the screen and choose Fill:


Go to Edit > Fill.

This opens the Fill dialog box, where we can choose a color to fill the selection with. Set the Use option at the top of the dialog box to Black:


Set the Use option to Black.

Click OK to close out of the dialog box. Photoshop fills the circular selection with black. Press Ctrl+D (Win) / Command+D (Mac) to quickly remove the selection outline from around the shape (you could also go up to the Select menu at the top of the screen and choose Deselect, but the keyboard shortcut is faster). Keep in mind that my document is still zoomed in to 500%, which is why the edges of the circle appear blocky:


The selection has been filled with black.

Step 5: Duplicate The Layer

With just this one circle added in the center of the tile, we could save the tile as a pattern, but let’s make it look a bit more interesting before we do that. First, make a copy of the layer by going up to the Layer menu at the top of the screen, choosing New, then choosing Layer via Copy. Or, if you prefer keyboard shortcuts, press Ctrl+J (Win) / Command+J (Mac):


Go to Layer > New > Layer via Copy.

Nothing will happen yet in the document window, but a copy of the layer, which Photoshop names “Layer 1 copy”, appears above the original in the Layers panel:


The Layers panel showing a copy of Layer 1 above the original.

Step 6: Apply The Offset Filter

When designing tiles to use as repeating patterns, there’s one filter you’ll use almost every time, and that’s Offset, which you can get to by going up to the Filter menu at the top of the screen, choosing Other, then choosing Offset:


Go to Filter > Other > Offset.

This opens the Offset filter dialog box. The Offset filter moves, or offsets, the contents of a layer by a specified number of pixels either horizontally, vertically, or both. When creating simple repeating patterns like the one we’re designing here, you’ll want to enter half the width of your document into the Horizontal input box and half the height of your document into the Vertical input box. In our case, we’re working with a 100 px x 100 px document, so set the Horizontal option to 50 pixels and the Vertical option also to 50 pixels. At the bottom of the dialog box, in the Undefined Areas section, make sure Wrap Around is selected:


Set the Horizontal and Vertical options to half the dimensions of the document and make sure Wrap Around is checked.

Click OK to close out of the dialog box. In the document window, we see that the Offset filter has taken the copy of the circle we made in the previous step and split it into four equal parts, placing them in the corners of the document. The circle remaining in the center is the original circle we drew on Layer 1:


The image after running the Offset filter.

Step 7: Define The Tile As A Pattern

With the tile designed, let’s save it as an actual pattern, a process Photoshop refers to as “defining a pattern”. Go up to the Edit menu at the top of the screen and choose Define Pattern:


Go to Edit > Define Pattern.

Photoshop will pop open a dialog box asking you to name the new pattern. It’s a good idea to include the dimensions of the tile in the name of the pattern in case you design several similar tiles at different sizes. In this case, name the tile “Circles 100×100″. Click OK when you’re done to close out of the dialog box. The tile is now saved as a pattern!


Name the pattern “Circles 100×100″.

Step 8: Create A New Document

We’ve designed our tile and defined it as a pattern, which means we can now use it to fill an entire layer! Let’s create a new document to work in. Just as we did back in Step 1, go up to the File menu and choose New. When the New Document dialog box appears, enter 1000 pixels for both the Width and Height. Leave the Resolution set to 72 pixels/inch, and this time, set the Background Contents to White so the background of the new document is filled with solid white. Click OK when you’re done to close out of the dialog box. The new document will appear on your screen:


Create a new 1000 px x 1000 px document with a white background.

Step 9: Add A New Layer

We could simply fill the document’s Background layer with our pattern, but that would seriously limit what we can do with it. As we’ll see in the next tutorial when we look at adding colors and gradients to patterns, a much better way to work is to place the repeating pattern on its own layer. Click on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel:


Click on the New Layer icon.

A new blank layer named “Layer 1″ appears above the Background layer:


The new layer appears.

Step 10: Fill The New Layer With The Pattern

With our new layer added, let’s fill it with our pattern! Go up to the Edit menu and choose Fill:


Go to Edit > Fill.

Normally, Photoshop’s Fill command is used to fill a layer or selection with a solid color, just as we did back in Step 4 when we used it to fill the circular selection with black. But we can also use the Fill command to fill something with a pattern, and we do that by first setting the Use option at the top of the dialog box to Pattern:


Change the Use option to Pattern.

With Pattern selected, a second option, Custom Pattern, appears directly below it, which is where we choose the pattern we want to use. Click on the pattern preview thumbnail:


Click directly on the Custom Pattern thumbnail.

This opens the Pattern Picker, which displays small thumbnails of all the patterns we currently have to choose from. The circle pattern we just created will be the last thumbnail in the list. If you have Tool Tips enabled in Photoshop’s Preferences (they’re enabled by default), the name of the pattern will appear when your hover your cursor over the thumbnail. Double-click on it to select it and exit out of the Pattern Picker:


Select the “Circles 100×100″ pattern in the Pattern Picker.

Once you’ve selected the pattern, all that’s left to do is click OK to close out of the Fill dialog box. Photoshop fills the blank layer in the document with the circle pattern, repeating the tile as many times as needed:


Layer 1 is now filled with the repeating circle pattern.

And that’s really all there is to it! Obviously our black and white circle pattern won’t win us many awards, but the important things to take away from this first tutorial are the steps we used to create it, designing a single tile, defining the tile as a pattern, then using Photoshop’s Fill command to fill an entire layer with the pattern.

Any suggestions, ideas? Feel free to comment on this article!

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Photographer LaChapelle can sue Rihanna over ‘copycat’ video

10 Aug

A US court has delivered a pre-trial ruling that photographer David LaChapelle’s copyright claims against singer Rihanna can go to court. LaChapelle brought the case over apparent similarities between his photographs and aspects of the music video for Rihanna’s single ‘S&M.’ The ruling from a district court in New York, gives an interesting insight into which elements of an original photograph are protected under US copyright law. Due to the nature of the content, our more squeamish readers (and those with limited interest in pop culture) may wish to look away now. (via PDN)
News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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6 Tipps zum Einstieg in die Makrofotografie

10 Aug
Dies ist ein Artikel von Jenni Brehm. Sie arbeitet in einer eCommerce-Agentur und entspannt in ihrer Freizeit beim Fotografieren. Ihre Fotos findet Ihr auf ihrem Blog Changing Perspectives und auf 500px.

Schöne Aufnahmen von Blumen oder Insekten seht Ihr sicherlich immer wieder. Doch wie entstehen diese Bilder und welche Tricks gibt es, damit Ihr selbst solche Aufnahmen hinbekommt? Einen Einstieg zu diesem Thema möchte ich heute mit diesem Beitrag geben, denn die Makrofotografie fasziniert mich schon seit Jahren und der Einstieg ist leichter als viele vielleicht denken.

Bei mir selbst waren es die tollen Blumen im Portugalurlaub, die meine kleine Knipse nicht wirklich festhalten konnte und die mich dazu brachten, vor fünf Jahren endlich eine Spiegelreflexkamera zu kaufen. Nach einem Telezoom-Objektiv kam ziemlich schnell ein Makro-Objektiv dazu, damit ich Blumen ablichten konnte. Es ist bis heute mein liebstes Thema geblieben – ein Nachmittag im botanischen Garten ist für mich Entspannung pur, auch wenn ich kaum eine der Blumen benennen kann.

Die nötige Ausrüstung

Die erste Frage ist: Welche Ausrüstung brauche ich für die Makrofotografie? Am besten natürlich ein Makro-Objektiv, da diese eine 1:1-Auflösung erlauben. Das heißt, dass die Abbildung auf dem Sensor genauso groß ist wie in der Realität. Diese Objektive sind zwar nicht gerade billig, bei einem wirklichen Interesse an der Makrofotografie aber absolut ihr Geld wert. Ich selbst besitze ein 60mm- und ein 100mm-Makro-Objektiv.

Alternativ kann man Zwischenringe nutzen oder Nahlinsen, die sich auf jedes Objektiv aufschrauben lassen. Beide sind in der Handhabung nicht ganz so einfach und nicht ganz so scharf wie Makro-Objektive, aber auf jeden Fall gangbare Alternativen mit wesentlich niedrigeren Kosten.

Zusätzlich haben einige Objektive eingeschränkte Makrofähigkeiten, was meistens heißt, dass Ihr relativ dicht an das Objekt herangehen könnt. Entscheidend ist hier immer die Nahgrenze des Objektivs, also der Mindestabstand, den ihr zum Fokussieren braucht. Eine andere Möglichkeit sind viele der gehobeneren Point&Shoot-Kameras, die oft recht ordentliche Makrofähigkeiten haben, jedoch kaum Schärfenverläufe zulassen.

Gerade mit Nahlinsen oder Verlängerungsringen ist ein Stativ oder eine feste Unterlage für die Kamera ein absolutes Muss, da sonst die Chancen für ein scharfes Bild sehr gering sind. Mit einem Makro-Objektiv ist es diskutabel – natürlich ist das Bild mit Stativ schärfer, doch schränkt man auch die Flexibilität und Schnelligkeit ein. Kaum ein Insekt wartet, bis das Stativ optimal eingestellt ist. Ich selbst benutze darum selten ein Stativ, ich kenne aber andere Makrofotografen, die nie ohne Stativ fotografieren würden. Darum meine Meinung: Probiert es einfach aus.

Warum in die Ferne schweifen?

Das Schöne an der Makrofotografie ist, dass ihr nicht weit weg von daheim sein müsst, um ein paar Aufnahmen zu machen. Auch wenn ihr nur 20 Minuten Zeit habt: Denn der eigene Garten, ein kleiner Park oder ein Feld, im Zweifel auch nur die Zimmerpflanzen oder ein Blumenstrauß sind eigentlich nie weit entfernt.

Schaut einmal genau hin – ihr werdet erstaunt sein, was ihr alles findet. Es muss also nicht immer eine Fahrt zu einer bestimmten Location sein – warum auch, wenn das Schöne so nah ist?

Kein Meister fällt vom Himmel – also experimentiert

Habt Ihr ein tolles Motiv gefunden, geht es darum, die richtige Perspektive und Entfernung für eine Aufnahme zu finden. Vermutlich wollt Ihr sehr oft so nah wie nur möglich an das Objekt. Es dauert eine Weile, bis Ihr ein Gefühl dafür entwickelt, was die kürzeste Entfernung zum Objekt ist, die Ihr einhalten müsst, damit der Fokus noch funktioniert. Meine Empfehlung: Experimentiert am Anfang erst einmal mit dem Autofokus und geht einfach immer ein Stückchen näher ran, bis scharf stellen nicht mehr möglich ist. Dann einfach millimeterweise zurückgehen, indem Ihr das Gewicht auf den Füßen verlagert, bis es wieder scharf stellt.

Zusätzlich stellt sich die Frage: Wie viel vom Objekt will ich eigentlich scharf haben? Gerade in der Makrofotografie ist das Experimentieren mit unterschiedlichen Blenden sehr interessant, da der Unterschied in der Schärfentiefe oft über die Wirkung einer Aufnahme entscheidet. Ist nur die Mitte der Blume scharf oder sollen die Blütenblätter scharf erscheinen? Auch hier hilft nur experimentieren. Am besten stellt Ihr einfach mal die Kamera auf ein Stativ vor eine Blume und fotografiert dann immer den gleichen Ausschnitt nur mit einer anderen Blendeneinstellung. Wieder daheim am Computer könnt ihr die Aufnahmen gut vergleichen, um einen Eindruck davon zu erhalten, wie sich die Blende auf den Schärfenverlauf auswirkt.

Ein Digitalbild kostet nichts – also drückt ab

Selbst mit den unterschiedlichsten Experimenten und viel Erfahrung ist es schwer, sich sicher zu sein, was die ideale Einstellung ist. Doch in der digitalen Fotografie stellt das heute gar kein Problem mehr dar – es spricht nichts dagegen, einfach zig Fotos mit unterschiedlichen Einstellungen zu machen. Einer der wirklich großen Vorteile des Fotografierens von Blumen: Sie laufen nicht weg und sind geduldig.

Nutzt diesen Vorteil und drückt einfach so lange ab, bis Ihr das Gefühl habt, eine gute Aufnahme dabei zu haben. Ändert dabei die Blende und die Perspektive, um einen Eindruck davon zu bekommen, was möglich ist. Mit der Zeit lernt Ihr so die passende Perspektive und Schärfe zu antizipieren und braucht weniger Aufnahmen.

Nutzt den Augenblick

Ein wichtiger Teil der Makrofotografie sind die Aufnahmen von Insekten. In vielen Aspekten ist das Fotografieren von Insekten jedoch das komplette Gegenteil davon, Blumen zu fotografieren: Sie bewegen sich ständig, lassen einen nicht wirklich nah ran und neigen dazu, einfach abzuhauen… Kurz gesagt, Ihr braucht sehr viel Geduld und sehr viel Glück, um gute Makroaufnahmen von Insekten zu machen.

Grundsätzlich eignen sich Makroobjektive mit einer längeren Brennweite besser für das Fotografieren von Insekten, da Ihr nicht ganz so nah ran müsst. Außerdem gibt es die einen Insekten, die ständig unterwegs sind – wie zum Beispiel Schmetterlinge – und andere, die relativ lange an einem Ort bleiben, wenn es ihnen gefällt. Wie Bienen, wenn sie eine leckere Blüte gefunden haben. Trotzdem solltet Ihr euch immer sehr vorsichtig und mit sehr ruhigen Bewegungen nähern, damit Ihr das Insekt nicht verschreckt.

Auch hier solltet Ihr Euch die Vorteile der digitalen Fotografie zu Nutze machen. Es schreibt Euch niemand vor, dass Ihr nur eine Aufnahme machen dürft. Ganz im Gegenteil – ich sage: Macht so viele wie Ihr könnt. Ich persönlich fange ab einer gewissen Entfernung an, Fotos vom Insekt zu machen, pirsche mich mit der Linse immer näher ran und drücke immer wieder ab. So habe ich vielleicht Glück, dass ich bis an die Nahgrenze komme – aber falls nicht, habe ich vermutlich trotzdem eine tolle Aufnahme.

Eine etwas andere Perspektive

Vielleicht denkst Du jetzt „Toll, Aufnahmen von Blumen kann ja jeder machen“ – das stimmt auch. Der Anspruch in der Makrofotografie liegt jedoch für mich darin, ein Objekt, das ich vielleicht schon zig mal fotografiert habe und das Tausende andere auch abgelichtet haben (Die Suche nach „Tulip“ auf flickr bringt fast 1 Mio. Ergebnisse) so zu präsentieren, dass es trotzdem noch interessant und neu wirkt. Der Kreativität sind hier keine Grenzen gesetzt und mit mehr Erfahrung kommen einem auch noch mehr Ideen. Das macht die Makrofotografie so anspruchsvoll und für jeden interessant auszuprobieren.


KWERFELDEIN | Fotografie Magazin

 
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Microsoft Excel 2010 – Show Trends Inside a Cell via Sparklines

10 Aug

Display miniature graphs, sparklines, showing trends in a series of data in an Excel 2010 worksheet.

While it is relatively easy to place multiple graphs inside a Microsoft Excel 2010 worksheet, adding too many may make your document seem unwieldy. However, multiple graphs may prove useful, especially when determining trends. For example, a worksheet containing rows of prices of different stocks across several quarters might benefit from graphs showing the trends of each stock’s price. The same could be said for a group of students’ grades (see the below screenshot), sales figures from your sales team, etc.

With the use of “Sparklines” you can add smaller miniature graphs for each row of data illustrating trends for each row:…

Read more at MalekTips.
New Computer and Technology Help and Tips – MalekTips.Com

 
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Grand Theft Auto Back To The Future Mod v.0.2e 3d anaglyph red/cyan

10 Aug

3D Anaglyph (red/cyan) video… red cyan 3d glasses needed…
Video Rating: 5 / 5

 
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Raw Footage and the Nikon D300s

10 Aug

robertsimaging.com Join the Roberts Raw guys as we test the video function on Nikon’s brand-new D300s DSLR.
Video Rating: 2 / 5

What can you put in this bag? A lot!!! Samsung NC-10 (netbook) Nikon D300s+MB-D10+18-70mm Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 Nikon 50mm f1.8 Nikon SB800 SB-900 Accessories Thanks for viewing Lukas www.lgmphoyography.co.uk
Video Rating: 4 / 5

 
 

Lens Comparison Website Aids In Lens Purchase Selection

10 Aug

When shopping for new lenses it’s often hard to compare the differences between one lens and another online. Even in a store, the difference might not be noticeable unless you get a chance to take both lenses out and play with them.

DxOMark to the rescue! This site is run as a manufacturer independent test site which allows for the comparison on hundreds of lenses side by side with a wide range of parameters. What’s even better than being able to compare raw stats, perfect for tech geeks (an enduring term, mind you)? Being able to compare lenses on different camera models.  Let’s take a quick look through the site’s main features. (click to enlarge screenshots)

Besides the advertisements, the first thing to note on the site is the fairly easy layout. At first I was a bit confused (this is normal for me) but then learned to find the lenses I was looking for. You can either browse the 400+ lenses in the section below (slow) or simply search for the lenses you want. I’d suggest choosing the “Lenses Only” option in the Advanced section under Search. It’s important to note the search will show results with the given manufacturer name and focal length, whether it is a zoom or prime. Such as a search for “Canon 85mm” will bring up the primes as well as 18-85mm option, as it should.

Each lens notes the US price and has a Select button for adding it to the comparison.

Once lenses are selected, the main screen shifts to show the most vital of comparison stats, with the option to sort by what is important to you.

DxOMark offers up their overall score, as many sites will, for a quick yes or no decision. Beyond that, to the left are results for Resolution, Distortion, Vignetting, Transmission and Chromatic Aberration. Even further to the right (beyond the screen shot) are Price, Minimum f-stop, Maximum f-stop, Filter Size and other vital info for the tech geeks in the crowd. It is a full, easy to compare, snapshot of the the lenses you have in mind. Want to dig a little deeper? DxOMark allows that as well.

Click “Compare Measurements” and another screen, similar to the first, organizes the vitals again, but this time with the handy [?] you might have been wanting. The [?] offers a chance to get a quick pop-up describing what the tested parameter means, why it’s important and the meaning of the score. DxOMark has put a lot of effort into providing accurate data and test situations and it shows in their lengthy (sometimes dry) explanations.

All meters are arranged with “Poor” on the left and “Excellent” on the right, so the sliders are all relevant for those not wishing to dive into the numerical info. Beyond the first screen are tabs across the top, the most handy of which is the “Measurements” tab. There is truly a dizzying amount of data available in the next screens. I have limited this test to a request from a student looking to buy one of two prime lenses. Otherwise, with a zoom, the amount of comparisons greatly increases and is a delight for those wanting granular data. For instance, I selected Vignetting and got the below results:

The green and red scale again makes understanding simplified. At f/1.4 you can quickly see both lenses are not at their best, but improve as the f-stop number increases (as is expected). Just above the camera models are “Global map” “Profile” and “Field map” which provide more granular information to help compare at different f-stops and focal lengths (if the lens zooms).

Beyond the lens comparison tool, DxOMark allows for comparing lenses on various camera bodies so hopefully you can get an accurate respresentation of how the lens will work on your specific model. While not all models are available, the most popular ones show up in the drop down list for an individual lens (below).

It is important to note that lenses intended for cropped sensors (APS-C) will only show the appropriate cameras for their test, while lenses that work with full frame and APS-C will show more cameras.

Lastly, paging through the information on a zoom lens, like the popular Canon EF 16-35mm II, provides a wealth of color coded information for learning a lens’s prime use areas, such as this chart showing Vignetting at various focal length and aperture settings.

All in all, I found DxOMark.com a very useful site for data gathering and comparison for lenses. For those looking for camera sensor data (ISO performance between different manufacturers, etc.), it can drill down on those stats as well. While it does not contain every combination available, the wealth of information is a great help when trying to decide between different lens or camera choices. My main gripe about the site is the number and placement of ads. I understand all this information is coming free of charge and income needs to be gathered somehow to keep the site running, but the text ads detract a bit from the site. While handy for sharing, the Tweet and Share buttons only bring up the main page for the lens and not the individual data set I was viewing.

Little things, really, for a site with such an extensive, growing library of useful lens and camera selection data.

Post from: Digital Photography School’s Photography Tips. Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips, Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras.

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Lens Comparison Website Aids In Lens Purchase Selection



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Photodoto closing down

10 Aug

I started Photodoto in 2006. In four years, we’ve published nearly 600 articles on a diverse range of topics for beginners to advanced photographers. I’m proud of the work. For myself, and on behalf of all of Photodoto’s contributing writers: thank you for reading and contributing.

When I started Photodoto, my mission was to try to make photography more accessible to everyone. I believe strongly that anyone can be a good photographer and that photography is not as mysterious or difficult as many people think. I hope that I’ve achieved that goal, at least for some of you.

Unfortunately, over the past year, I haven’t had the time to dedicate to Photodoto that I think it or you deserves. I’ve got a lot on my plate. I’ve been forced to prioritize and Photodoto just didn’t make the cut.

Photodoto will not just disappear. There will be no new blog posts. But the content will live on in some form. I intend to reorganize and republish the most popular articles. And all existing links to content here will continue to work.

There are many great photography blogs out there. Here are three in particular that I think have a similar aim as Photodoto and that I think you will enjoy:

  • Epic Edits
  • Beyond Megapixels
  • Digital Photography School

See you around. 🙂

-John
john@photodoto.com


Photodoto

 
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The Wright Way to Photography Episode 4 “Are you exposed?”

10 Aug

Join host Stephen Heywood and co-host Steve Wright talk about exposure and how to set exposures. Photography News and much much more on The Wright Way to Photograph Episode 4!
Video Rating: 5 / 5