Category: Photography

  • Backyard: Weekly Photography Challenge

    This week your photographic challenge is to take and share a photo from your backyard. If you don’t have a back yard – you’re welcome to substitute your front yard, a local park or some other outdoor garden type area.

    The key is to explore an area that may not spring to mind as a great photographic location but which might contain some interesting subjects if you let your mind go there.

    As those who follow me on Instagram know – I did this recently in my own yard with my iPhone and ended up attempting some macro photography of some bees buzzing around.

    295198752614209080_1398412.jpeg

    While I’d have had better results with my DSLR the challenge of capturing them with my iPhone was a fun challenge and the results were surprising.

    295323206749082811_1398412.jpeg

    You might like to try photographing insects, flowers or something else with some Macro shots – or perhaps you want to set up a portrait shoot, or shoot some still life objects or do something else. Anything goes.

    Once you’ve taken and selected the ‘backyard’ image that you’d like to share – upload it to your favourite photo sharing site or blog and either share a link to it or – embed them in the comments using our embed tool to do so.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites with Tagging tag them as #DPSBACKYARD to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    Also – don’t forget to check out some of the great shots posted in last weeks challenge – Favorite Gear challenge where there were some great shots submitted.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Backyard: Weekly Photography Challenge



    Digital Photography School

  • Martin Stranka and Music of His Dreams

    Martin Stranka is one of my most favorite photographers. I decided to open his inner world made of fragile subtle senses filled with poesy and sounds of beautiful music to readers of PhotoDoto. All this gives us opportunity to enjoy visual side of this whole universe in one person. J.B.: Martin, I know that most of readers are waiting to Continue Reading

    The post Martin Stranka and Music of His Dreams appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • The Power Of Limitations

    When photographers ask me what gear they should bring on my photo workshops, my recommendation is to keep it simple. Bring whatever you want on the trip, but bring one body and one lens on the daily photo walks.  Most will give a huge sigh of relief while others will wonder what to do with their fancy new camera strap that allows them to carry two DSLRs. This is how the power of limitations begins.

    Limiting yourself to one lens to take on your photo walk, knowing you must live with that decision all day, may sound terrifying to you, but you with benefit twice: You will save your back and learn exciting new ways to see.  Naturally, your lens choice will depend on what your are planning to shoot that day. Many photographers prefer the flexibility of a zoom lens. I recommend a fixed focal length lens such as a 50mm or, if you’re a Canon shooter, the new 40mm pancake lens.  Should you decide to limit yourself to a 50mm lens for the day, you immediately increase your chances of making better pictures. Why? You will be forced to slow down and take more care in your composition. With a fixed lens your feet are your zoom. You will work the scene more carefully and pay closer attention to what you include in the frame, and more importantly, what you decide to leave out of the frame.  Result? Some interesting photographs and a great learning experience – such can be the power of limiting yourself to one lens.

    When shooting street photography with a DSLR, a small lens such as a 50mm also has the advantage of making you more invisible..

    Another way to slow down and improve your images is to either shoot film or pretend you are.  Set a limit to the number of frames you will shoot that day instead of using the ‘spray and pray’ approach.  Trust me – if you limit yourself to 24 or 36 exposures for one photo walk, you will make every single one of those frames count. Those of you who have shot film, you already know what I’m talking about.

    In the fall of 1994 environmentalist and nature photographer Jim Brandenburg, embarked on a journey to shoot one frame a day for 90 days. Imagine that – limiting yourself to just one frame a day for 90 days!  And those were the film days. Truth be told, he was my inspiration to pursue photography as a hobby and later as a career.  To learn more about his amazing journey and get some inspiration, I encourage you to read his story in his best seller book Chased by the Light, NorthWord Press, 1998.

    Setting limitations should be kept simple such as picking a theme for your photo walk.  Maybe you decided to focus on a color or to photograph only cats. Eventhough you are likely to shoot other items of interest unrelated to your goal, your focus will turn an ordinary photo walk into a treasure hunt, and isn’t that more fun? This will spice up your photo walks in your hometown and help keep you focused in a new environment where it’s easy to get overwhelmed by so much novelty or newness.

    Double the fun and select one lens (here the 50mm) and pick a theme (photographing cats) and your photo walk will turn into a treasure hunt.

    However, if you are a beginner or still experimenting with your camera functions, please do shoot more – even lots! These limitations will better suit you once you have some experience under your belt.  The more you shoot, the better you’ll get!  When I first picked up a camera I wish I had benefited from the luxury of shooting digital, the film days were expensive and the experimentation process was definitely slower.  Shoot your heart out in the beginning. Stay excited and keep learning. Master your camera settings and experiment with whatever lens you own. You will soon realize how the power of limitations can fine tune your craft.

    Have fun!

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    The Power Of Limitations



    Digital Photography School

  • Portraits that Prop

     

    As a photographer, how many times have you had your portrait taken. There is nothing more uncomfortable and awkward than sitting in front of a camera trying to evoke a natural smile or a true, heart felt expression. Let’s be honest, the experience of having your portrait taken can be down right terrifying, yet we aspire to have our subjects pose and emote in an organic and subtle way that transcends and captures the embodiment of our subjects personality. Simple right?

    The reality is that the camera makes our subjects self-conscious and hyper aware of their appearance, with an overall fear of not capturing a single image that meets their approval. I mean, how many of us truly look in the mirror each morning thinking, “Wow, I am looking fantastically, good today?” Most of the time, all we can see are the imperfections and bothersome nuances that melt away and stifle the perception of our own esthetic. So how does one capture a nice, natural portrait?

    I have read many articles and blog posts concerning this topic. Many focus on trying to relax your subject either through gentle conversation and personal connection or simply by breaking out some wine as a medicament to treat the inhibitions created by the shoot. The truth is that there is no easy recipe to help overcome this problem. No matter whether you are shooting a model, family member, or even a close friend, the camera is still the giant 400 pound gorilla in the room that everyone knows is there regardless of any distractions. So what can we do?

    Aside from normal social graces and pre-planning for the shoot, I have one simple method that surprisingly works almost every time. PROPS! It is amazing what magic can happen when you give your subject something else to interact with while you are shooting. Cuts right through some of those awkwardly, silent moments when both you and the subject know things are not working yet no one wants to admit it. Yes, we all experience these gratingly, uncomfortable situations.

    So what kind of props am I talking about? All and any kinds. They can be silly, beautiful, interesting or even surprisingly strange. These can be fresh flowers, a costume, a masquerade mask, a piece of interesting fabric, a hat, a pet, a piece of fruit, sports equipment, a music instrument, a lawn mower, oven mitts, or even an original, mint in box, Darth Vader action figure from Star Wars. The reality is that any item that has some meaning to the subject or that they can relate to will work and don’t be afraid to go way outside the box into the realm of the disturbingly obscure or insanely cliche. It is amazing how a simple prop can break the ice and give the subject something with which to interact, allowing you to capture a few true emotive moments when they have forgotten about the camera, shed some of the self conscious inhibitions and helped you create a beautifully expressive portrait.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Portraits that Prop



    Digital Photography School

  • Seeing The Light

    Robyn

    Bright midday sun can be harshest to work with. Using a reflector or fill flash can help soften the harshness.

    There are several factors that set apart good photos from mere snapshots, and good photos from great photos.  Things such as exposure, composition, and decisive moment all play a part in setting apart great photos. Equally important is light. Quality of light can make or break a photo.  Whether you take photos with a DSLR or take quick snaps with your cell phone, seeing the light will help improve your images.

    For the most part here, we are discussing natural light. Often, photographers will create their own light to match their vision.  But when photographing using available light, we are at nature’s mercy. There are many different kinds of light: harsh, soft, warm, or cool, among others. The direction of the light plays an equally important part. Direct, frontal light, low angular light, side light, and backlight all create different qualities in an image.  Learning to use the different types of light, and even manipulate them to taste, means always being able to find a photo.

    Midday light is  generally not a photographer’s friend.  The sun is bright, and high in the sky.  The light tends to be harsh.  Shadows are cast straight down, causing people to look less than their best with deep shadows in the eye sockets and under the chin.  On landscapes, this can cause things to flatten out and look uninteresting. When shooting portraits in this light, fill flash or a reflector can work wonders, creating a second light source that adds depth. Finding some shade can be helpful in using the bright light while the shade reduces the harshness.

    Late Afternoon Glow

    Late afternoon and early morning light tends to be very directional and warm. It creates soft shadows that can define your subject.

    Late afternoon and early morning sun tends to be the most beautiful light.  When the sun is close to the horizon, it shines at a low angle and casts long, deep shadows that add interest and define those subjects that catch the light.  The sun takes on a warmer, softer glow due to atmospheric haze when it is at this low angle, making it very pleasing for use in portraits as well as nature and landscape photography.  Add in a reflector to help soften shadows. Fill flash can be used but be aware that flash is much cooler compared to late afternoon and early morning sun.  Using a CTO (color to orange) gel on the flash can help to match the color temperature of the available light. That late day and early morning light is very directional, so depending on where you stand in relation to the sun, you could have front light, side light, or back light. Try all three and compare the quality of the light from each direction.  Each can provide beautiful, yet very different lighting.

    In addition to late afternoon and early morning light, there is what is knows as “The Blue Hour”.  This is the time just before the sun comes up in the morning, and just after the sun goes down in

    Montauk Point

    The Blue Hour, before the sun rises, as in this case, or after the sun sets, is a mystical time where the light takes on a soft blue hue.

    the evening.  While the horizon will have a pleasing warm glow, the ambient light takes on a bluer tint than what is usually seen during the day.  It’s a very mystical light that leaves a dreamy feeling over the scene, and is well worth getting out of bed early to photograph in, or staying out after sunset to capture.

    In terms of direction, front light tends to be the least interesting of light. The reason for this is the light is coming from directly behind the photographer, hitting the subject and fully lighting the scene.  Very few shadows are cast. While there are times when shadows are not desirable, more often than not shadows add interest to an image.  Light can reveal your subject, but shadows define your subject, so a direct, frontal light source is not usually what is wanted.  This is the kind of light direct, on-camera flash creates.  There is a reason most pros try to find ways to bounce the flash off of walls and ceilings rather than aiming it directly at their subject.

    Golden Canopy

    During midday sun, finding some shade can be a good way to reduce to the harshness of the light.

    Side light has the effect of splitting your subject in half.  This can be a very effective light when used properly.  The shadows created have the effect of slimming portrait subjects, and creating depth with other subjects. It can at times be very contrasty and harsh, but often it will provide soft, warm light that enhances the beauty of whatever it is you’re shooting.  For portraits, the use of a reflector can be helpful in softening the shadows.  It’s difficult to use fill flash in this situation due to the split lighting.  The flash will be coming from the front of the subject, so it will illuminate both the bright areas and the shadow areas. Off-camera flash positioned to the shadow side of your subject works well for this situation.

    Backlighting can be beautiful, but it’s also very difficult to work with.  Your subject is lit from behind, so for portraits some sort of fill will be necessary.  A reflector can work wonders in this situation.  When shooting with a cell phone or point and shoot camera, turn on the flash or use the HDR option, if available. For subjects where a reflector or fill flash is impractical, such as sports or wildlife, exposure compensation will be necessary to open up the shadows. Backlighting is nice in that it adds a nice rim light around your subject, really defining the outlines.  It creates the perfect conditions for dramatic silhouettes as well.

    Misty

    Fog, mist, and clouds create a soft, diffuse light that can add a mysterious or dreamy quality to an image.

    Fog, mist, and clouds create a softer, more diffuse light that can at times be boring, but ultimately is easy to work with because it is so even, creating soft shadows that aren’t too deep, and soft highlights that aren’t too bright.  It can create a mysterious or a dreamy mood depending on how thick it is.  It can help create beautiful landscapes, a soft even light portraiture, and be desirable for shooting wildlife and sports due to the even light.

    Paying attention to the light, watching how it falls on your subject, can help you improve your images, regardless of what you use to shoot them.  Learn to recognize the type of light you’re in, and how best to work with it. Doing so will help you create better images.

     

     

     

     

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Seeing The Light



    Digital Photography School

  • Should you be shooting RAW?

    You can find many articles online discussing the benefits of shooting in RAW and probably an equal number full of counter arguments stating that it is possible to obtain equally good results shooting in JPEG.  Whilst that is definitely true, I want to discuss the reasons that pushed me to exclusively use RAW in the hope that it can persuade others to do the same.

    I liken RAW processing to taking the camera off ‘auto’ and shooting in ‘manual’ mode.  When people are starting out in digital photography, it can seem like another area full of technical jargon that forms a barrier preventing its uptake.  However, once you have an small understanding of the processes involved and how different settings can impact your results, you will find that letting your camera do the processing can be the limiting factor in achieving your photographic vision.

    What is RAW?

    A RAW file is an uncompressed image file that records the data from the sensor ‘as is’, with minimal processing.  Depending on your camera, this file will most likely contain either 12-bit or 14-bit data.  When shooting in JPEG, the camera will take the RAW file, process it with a number of generic actions (typically contrast/saturation adjustments, correcting for white balance and sharpening) before compressing the image down to an 8-bit JPEG file.

    That difference in ‘bit depth’ is the key here.  The 12-bit image will contain 2^12=4096 tones per channel.  Given that there are three channels per pixel (red, green and blue), that equates to 4096x4096x4096= 69 billion possible tones per pixel.  If we compare that to the other bit depths, you will see the difference:

    Bit depth

    Tones per channel

    Possible tones per pixel

    8-bit

    2^8 = 256

    16.8 million

    12-bit

    2^12 = 4096

    68.7 billion

    14-bit

    2^14 = 16384

    4.4 trillion

    Now those numbers are almost too large to comprehend, however it is quite simple to consider in context.  When you take a JPEG file from your camera into Photoshop to process, there are only 256 possible tones to define the colour for each red, green or blue channel, which means that when you start apply changes to contrast or brightness, there are a very limited number of possible tones for each pixel, which can result in obvious image degradation if pushed too far.  With a RAW image, the number of possible tones is that much greater that more significant changes to can be made without any impact on the final image quality.

    This doesn’t come without a cost though.  Due to the increased bit depth of RAW files, they are anywhere from 2-6 times larger than the corresponding JPEG when recorded in camera.  This will make your vast memory card seem very limited.  Additionally, where as a JPEG is typically printer-ready straight out of the camera, a RAW file will need to be manually processed in your digital darkroom.  So, to answer the obvious question of ‘is it worth it?’, lets consider the benefits…

    The benefits of RAW

    As mentioned above, when shooting JPEG, the camera processes the image internally, before compressing it to a lower bit depth.  The processing applied by the camera is generic, and uniform across the entire image.  In contrast, when you capture RAW images, you have full control over how much processing is applied to an image, and where in that image you apply it.

    Given the increased bit depth of the RAW files, any image you capture is much more forgiving than the corresponding JPEG would be.  For example, if you didn’t nail your exposure, and you over-exposed the sky of a landscape photograph, leaving it nearly white, you will be able to recover much more tonal data in the RAW file and potentially save what, otherwise, may be an image destined for the recycle bin.  Similarly for shadow data, much more information is retained meaning under-exposed regions of an image can be recovered to show detail that would otherwise have been lost.

    Shadow detail recovery when shooting RAW

    On the left is the image presented straight out of camera. Exposing to contain the bright sky caused the trees to be under-exposed, and appear and a dense block of dark colour. The image on the right shows the same image processed to boost the shadows to reveal detail that may otherwise have been lost

    Similarly, one image can contain enough tonal detail to create an HDR-style image from one file.  The exposure of the image can be increased/decreased during post processing to give 3 images, as if bracketed, and can be combined to give that effect of increased dynamic range, but all from just one image.

    When shooting in RAW, you no longer need to set your white balance in camera.  The increased bit depth of RAW files means that the white balance can be defined, by precise colour temperature (in Kelvin), during post processing rather than by a limited number of defined presets in camera before the shutter is pressed.  Due to the increased bit depth, significant white balance shifts do not have a negative impact on the final image quality.  No longer do you fire off a few frames before remembering that you left the white balance on ‘incandescent’ even though you are now outdoors.

    Colour temperature correction from RAW

    The top image shows Bruges, captured at night, straight out of camera. The white balance of the bottom image has been processed to reduce the colour temperature in order to give a more realistic representation for the colour of the stone buildings, without any impact on the image quality.

    Sharpening can be applied as much as you want and even where you want, without over-sharpening a pre-sharpened JPEG image.  This can be used to emphasise details in one section of an image, or just generally give you control over the final image output.

    Selective sharpening of an image

    This image on the left shows a cheetah that has undergone some sharpening to increase detail. The image on the right is the mask applied to the sharpening effect. Imagine that black and white image superimposed over the top of the cheetah; the area of white represents the portion of the image to which the sharpening effect has been applied and the area of black represents the portion of the image to which the sharpening effect is not applied. Therefore, in this instance, the sharpening has been applied only to the eyes/nose of the big cat, to further emphasise the sharp focus in this area, and increase the impact of the close portrait.

    The added bonus

    As if the above points weren’t enough, what has to be one of my favourite reasons for shooting in RAW is that all image editing is non-destructive.  Unlike a JPEG file, where any changes made to the image are permanent, all changes made to a RAW image are stored in a metadata file associated with the RAW file, leaving the original file untouched.  This means you can never irreparably ruin an image by saving some mistaken changes and also you can go back to an image a few weeks, months or years later and reprocess it, from the original RAW, as your processing skills improve.

    Now, I would be lying if I said there was not a learning curve associated with RAW processing.  You will need dedicated RAW processing software to manipulate your images, but typically cameras that support shooting in RAW should ship with the manufacturers own software for doing so.  There are also a large number of alternative free programs out there, as well as software packages from well know image editing giants, such as Adobe.  With a little bit of research, you will see how easy it is to squeeze the most out of your images, and you will soon wonder why you weren’t shooting in RAW sooner.

    Given that most cameras should give the option of shooting in ‘RAW+JPEG’, where the camera records both the RAW file and processed JPEG file to the memory card, you haven’t got an excuse to not give it a go the next time you are out with your camera.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Should you be shooting RAW?



    Digital Photography School

  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Brazil

    Brazil is known for its golden beaches and the Amazon rainforest, but there is more to be had in the largest country in South America. DPS readers like you submitted their photos for a look around the county from the comfort of your computer.

    This is the fifteenth country we are covering the DPS reader fueled DPS Travel Photography Inspiration Project.

    If you would like to be involved in the next country’s post, drop me a line here.

    The Jump

    The Jump by Alexandre Furcolin F.

    Kids playing by the sea at Praia de São Bento, in the state of Alagoas

    DSC_9992

    Barbeiro (Barber), Capim Grosso, Bahia by Julie Orfirer

    As always, getting off the beaten path, staying as long as you can in one place – enough to be a familiar face in a small town if possible – will give you the opportunities to catch life as it is. Brazil is a friendly place with people who are willing to help with communicating and show off what is special about their home towns.

    soft light dune brazil

    soft dune light – Jericoacoara, brazil by Michael Robert Powell

    Shooting in the wet season after rainfall saturates colors and often sees moody skies. I softened this image to give it a lightly-painted effect.  A scene sparse on detail can enhance the composition.

    Angra

    Church and Tree by Jacson Querubin

    An old church in Angra dos Reis. This is an photo taken from a boat tour in Angra. Angra dos Reis is a city near Rio de Janeiro (about 250km). It has more than 200 islands. Angra (nickname that everybody uses) has a lot of hotels and resorts to stay, but it has some hostels too. Great place to rest and se a nature beauty near Rio de Janeiro. Its like a Brazilian Santa Barbara (a city where a lot of rich people and celebrities go rest and take the beach). Prefer between April and November you’ll get of the season and lower prices (exclude July).
    Spray artist

    Street art, Rua da Carioca, Rio de Janeiro by Angus McIntyre

    Tip: Look out for Rio’s brilliant and colorful graffiti.

    Wild curves

    Wild Curves by Alexandre Furcolin F.

    The breath-taking landscape of Lençois Maranhenses national park, in the state of Maranhão. A huge desert of fine sand dunes permeated by lagoons that accumulate turquoise water after the rain season.  Definitely a must-go.

    DSC_9968

    Feira (Marketplace), Capim Grosso, Bahia by Julie Orfirer

    Market days are becoming more rare in Brazil as the supermarkets take over but in the interior of Bahia they are still weekly events. Photographic opportunities are everywhere and can be overwhelming. I processed this in monochrome to focus on the moment rather than the abundance of color at these events.

    oasis - ceara state brazil

    beach oasis –  cearà state, brazil  by Michael Robert Powell

    The northern coast of Brazil has  some stunning sand dune scenery, often you feel you’re in the Sahara. I had no choice over the timing of this middle of the day shot. I saturated the image further in this stitched panorama and was happy with the bright day effect.

    Honestino

    Bridge to Mothership by Jacson Querubin

    The Honestino Guimarães Museum, in Brasília. This photo was taking on a tour in the Monumental Axis in Brazil’s capital. On Brazil’s capital, Brasília, we has the Monumental Axis where all the 3 power has offices (and all ministries and others federal agencies). In this Axis, we have the Honestino Guimarães museum, planned by the famous architect Oscar Niemayer. With curves and abstract lines, the museum is great (as well as all Niemayer’s projects). The best time to walk (a long walk, BTW) it is in the morning. Take some water and prefer go by bus or car/taki, to see all the famous places. Brasília is an expensive city, so plan ahead and try to avoid big conferences that has there (search, ’cause you can pay a lot more, with this events).
    Egrets

    Carved birds by Angus McIntyre

    Tip: The popular tourist resort of Paraty is almost too picture-postcard pretty; concentrating on details offers the chance for more interesting shots.

    Intimate Window

    Intimate window by Alexandre Furcolin F.

    A nine people family sharing a (barely) 2 room house made of mud and straw in one of the many forgotten poor communities, this one in the state of Alagoas. Numerous family, scarce resources and smiley faces, the typical portrait of Brazilian rural areas families. Looking at those honest happy faces in such a precarious environment always makes me rethink the money-happiness relation. –

    DSC_8108

    Pescando (Fishing), Corumbá, Mato Grosso do Sul by Julie Orfirer

    This is sunset at the Rio Paraguai on the Brazil/Bolivia border in the Pantanal. It’s an example of waiting in the right setting for the right moment. Of the hundreds of birds flocking and fishing, just this one skimmed the water for his meal.

    street people sleeping – rio by Michael Robert Powell

    The streets can be mean in Rio – not just for the homeless but also for tourists: take precautions with cameras. This image I converted to B&W for greater impact and added a soft vignette to focus more on the guy closest. A day earlier he had no mattress, someone had bought him this as he suffered in the street with an infected leg.

    Cataratas

    Iguaçu Falls by Jacson Querubin

    Iguaçu falls is one of the new 7 wonders of nature. This is a long exposure taken in Iguaçu Falls. This photo was taken with a tripod with a ND400 filter. When traveling to Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná State, Brazil, you have a lot of places to visit. One of the beautiful places in the world, the Iguaçu Falls are breathtaking with its nature and beauty. There are about 100 falls counted. When visiting the falls, prefer going in the morning (the park opens at 9 am), be on the first bus going direct on the last stop (so you can have photos with few people on frame). The only access is with the oficial bus tour (you pay at entrance).

    Santa Teresa

    Tram tracks, Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro by Angus McIntyre

    Tip: The ‘bonde’ (tram) from Lapa to Santa Teresa offers lots of opportunities, both as a subject and as a platform for taking pictures.

    Asceptic City

    Aseptic city by Alexandre Furcolin F.

    The minimalistic geometry of the monumental federal capital Brasilia, entirely planned and buid in 1956 by Lucio Costa and Oscar Niemeyer, inevitably produces the sense of emptiness that I attempted to reproduce in this picture.

    TIP: If you like architecture and modernism, do not miss Brasilia. If you are short in time, i would agree that you may have more interesting options to visit than Brasilia. But if you are interested in constructivism and in the aesthetic of volumes, shadows, lines and curves, i strongly recommend one day composing pictures with Niemeyer’ reinforced concrete.

    vultures amazon brazil

    vultures on village church – amazon by Michael Robert Powell

    This was simply a lucky shot as I passed thru a village. Have your camera ready for such images that flash by fast and don’t offer a second chance. I was drawn to the juxtaposition of crosses and vultures, converting it to B&W with a bit more central light for punch.

    4Lines

    4 Lines by Jacson Querubin

    Transmission powerlines from Itaipu Dam. This is a long exposure taken in Itaipu Tour. This photo was taken with a tripod with a ND8 + ND400 filter. Another place to visit in Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná State, Brazil. Here
    you get the triple border (Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina), for example. Besides the vast nature surrounding the city, you have the largest hydroelectric powerplant generator in the world (annual generation, not the installed power): Itaipu Binacional. You can have an all day long tour within Itaipu sites: Biological Refuge Bela Vista, Ecomuseum and the Dam. If you don’t have a full day, I recommend go in the afternoon tour (take about 2 hours before sunset).

    You will have to pay a fee to make the visit. You also have a technical visit that you can see inside the DAM – but this visit you will need proper clothes – closed shoes and pants, no shorts allowed.

    Ipanema

    View along Ipanema Beach by Angus McIntyre

    Tip: even though the beaches of Rio have been photographed to death, they’re still beautiful; take your camera (but don’t leave it unattended).

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Brazil



    Digital Photography School

  • Photography Inspires – Through the Eyes of a Child

    When you’re a young child all you have to do is blink to see a brand new world in front of you. One second you’re home, the next you’re in Neverneverland.

    As you get older, you need glasses to see the image right in front of you that is no longer clear, due to age and loss of youth.

    For some young people, losing the gift of a child’s imagination and innocence comes all too soon.

    leeds_liverpool_canal_1

    © Jess Collins

    When all you know is the world through one set of eyes, you learn there are an infinite number of ways to see – simply by exchanging lenses.

    Photography allows you to find a glimpse into the bright eyed outlook of a child you once knew long ago.

    Photography is a gift I hope to offer to young people from all different walks of life. Knowledge about camera functions and techniques is a bonus.

    Shift your lens, enter another dimension. Change a setting; revert to a time period where colour did not exist. Attach length; transport yourself into the magnified scenery.

    By learning about photography, young people can explore their thoughts, experiences and perceptions in search of something greater than what they know – allow their imaginations to run again and uncover an entirely new world.

    Jess Collins is a traveller, blogger, photographer and regular contributor to the Street Style Surgery blog. Jess’ creative outlets are such an important part of her life that she loves to give back by sharing her experiences with young people.

    dslrBlog

  • Grow Your Photography Business By Growing As A Human Being

    Most articles which talk about improving your photography business will tell you about how to become a better photographer. Some will tell you about the need to improve your business skills. Sure, those are important. But I think they’re missing something. And it’s ironic that they’re missing the most obvious and most important part of your business – you. You Continue Reading
    Photodoto

  • Bark Expedition SUP After Paddling Workout


    Bark Expedition SUP

    October 19 2012. After paddling Bark Expedition SUP on Beaver Pond in Arapaho Bend Natural Area. Camera: Pentax Optio WG2.

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    Daily Paddling Picture Gallery


    paddling with a camera