Category: Photography

Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do you begin?

Here are some photography tips for absolute beginners to help get you started:

Buying gear

Your gear does not make you a good photographer. If you are just starting out, a top of the line camera is likely to not ony be be a waste of money for you, but also make your learning process a bit trickier. A bit like buying a formula one race car to learn to drive.

When you do want to buy gear, research first. It’s really helpful to take a look at some photography forums or articles here on dPS to find tips on beginner cameras. Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read reviews, and again look to forums such as Flickr, where there is a chat group for nearly every brand or model of camera, and they are often more honest about any issues.

The same applies to other gear like lighting. You don’t need to set yourself up with professional soft boxes to try studio lit portraits, you can try some of these DIY lighting tips, or find some cheap beginner setups on Amazon or Ebay.

Take lots of photographs

“Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

As with any skill, the more you use it, the better you get. As you progress with your photography and look back on those early beginner shots you thought were fabulous, you’ll be able to see Mr. Cartier-Bresson was very right.

Read the manual

Camera manuals are at best, the most boring thing you have ever read in your life, with the possible exception of that friend that wanted you to read all 600 pages of their poetry about love and skin rashes.

Camera manuals are not exactly a riveting read.

It’s a good thing both in the beginning, and to refresh down the track, to know how this wonderful instrument (your camera) actually works. Even if you don’t recall all of it, that doesn’t matter, you will learn or be reminded of something helpful.

Yet it’s such a hard thing to read that manual! So it’s best to place it somewhere where you can push through it in small instalments while you are passing some time such as: the bathroom, in the car if circumstances have you often sitting there waiting for the kids, or at work during lunch break. Just as long as you give that thing a good going over.

Workshops and courses

So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooooo! I’ll sign up to a bunch of courses, workshops, buy online courses.” It might seem like a good idea and while they can be fantastic, I don’t recommend going nuts with your enthusiasm, and signing up for courses and workshops the moment you get the photography buzz.

You are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on the entire internet. There is more information, tips and tutorials on this site, and others, than you will ever need to get you started and beyond. Once you get the hang of things, then you will have a better idea of the type of courses and workshops that would suit you. So I’m not saying don’t take a course – just wait until you know what suits your needs.

Connect with other photographers

This is invaluable, whether you sign up to an online group that use your brand of camera, or join a local camera club, your photography will progress faster, and it will be more fun with the help of fellow shutterbugs.

Connecting with other photographers is a great way to learn more and get inspired.

Camera clubs often have monthly competitions to practice with and sometimes organize photo tours, exhibitions and other activities. Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners can not only inspire, but also keep you motivated.

Sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages, or even approach photographers you admire to ask questions. Most professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions, as long as you are respectful and polite, and don’t demand too much of their time.

Try everything

You may have taken up photography with a certain style or subject in mind, but it can be helpful to try all styles. You never know what you might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.

Getting feedback

Your friends and family may love you but they will lie to you about your photography. Unless you have a very honest friend or family member who actually knows a bit about photography, it’s often more beneficial to get feedback from strangers.

Signing up to a photo sharing site where others can comment on your work will get you mostly honest feedback, sometimes brutally so. I posted the image below on a feedback site some years ago. Aware the image had faults, I was keen to hear what someone else could point out for me, that I might not have seen after working so closely on the image.

A fellow submitted a lengthy comment , basically pulled it apart, pointing out several (million it seemed) faults, he really went to town on it. But while the comments were brutal and borderline unkind, it was useful advice. All of which I ignored in regards to that image, but was useful for later attempts.

Enter free competitions

If you have loads of money to spend, and confidence in your work, by all means as a beginner enter some of the big competitions. You wouldn’t be the first to take out a major prize in the first few months of picking up a camera. But there are loads of free competitions out there for you to throw some images, at and see how they go. Have a read of this helpful guide to entering competitions.

Aim to get off Auto settings

If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital. No rush though! Just enjoy photographing in Auto Mode, and experiment with the settings as you go. Manual settings are not nearly as difficult as some beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the beginning, it can be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and steering, all the while trying not veer off the road. But, with a bit of patience and practice, it becomes second nature. When you are ready to try manual settings there are plenty of beginner guides and cheat sheets here on dPS.

The digital darkroom

If you are really into your photography, you will need some sort of editing program. In the days of film photography you needed a darkroom and the use of heavy chemicals. But these days, thanks to modern technology, you can edit almost anywhere.

These days your darkroom can even be in bed with some accompaniments.

There are free and simple programs like Picasa, which have their limits, but are good for those just starting out. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, which can be daunting for beginners, but it’s worth learning even just the basics of these programs, if you intend to get serious about your photography at some point. As with getting off Auto settings, it’s not as difficult as it may seem at first, and the internet is bursting with free tutorials on pretty much any program you choose.

Have fun

This is the best and most important part of photography, the enjoyment of it.

Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts, or by comparing yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, keep challenging yourself, and above all keep enjoying the fun you can have with photography.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners by Lea Hawkins appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 12, 2015
Sony RX10ii Field Test

Chris and Jordan from The Camera Store put the Sony RX10ii through it’s paces from both the still and video side of things.

They look at whether it has made big improvements over the previous iteration of this camera, and who it is best suited for. Have a watch of this if you are considering getting this camera, it may help you decide if it’s for you or not:

The guys seem to think this is a great hybrid camera, sort of an all-in-one. If you just want one camera that does good video, good still images, just grab and go, the Sony RX10 MarkII might be a good choice for you.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post Sony RX10ii Field Test by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 12, 2015
How Zack Seckler Uses Humor and Style in Photography

When dPS first heard about Zack Seckler’s unique style and perspective on photography, we thought you might like to hear about his though process and see some of his work here. So I did an email interview with Zack to ask him a few questions:

#1 – Your work is very unique with a particular sense of humor. Can you tell us a little about your thought process? How do you come up with the ideas for them? What steps do you follow to make them reality?

Whether it be written, drawn, spoken, or televised I have a deep appreciation for humor. I like to laugh, sure, I mean stating the obvious here. But what I love is that humor can push me to see, or think, differently. Like a camera lens, humor can refocus the way we see the world.

I enjoy showing an amusing version of the ordinary. I try not to take life too seriously, to always see the positives in things, and I want my work to reflect these sentiments.

I shoot humor-based work for clients and I also shoot for myself. When beginning a new personal project it can be a bit overwhelming because it’s not about finding inspiration, but about sifting through the zillion ideas, pictures, thoughts and ideas I’ve had; and trying to select just one. I have a Word doc dozens of pages long, with single line ideas in it. I have folders with hundreds of screenshots, and iPhone snaps that inspired a funny thought. I do this not as a job, but as a passion. When I have time to shoot a new personal piece it’s like trying to pick between my babies.

Eventually, I settle on something that I love, which is unique to what I’ve done so far. I like trying to push my body of work in new directions and to not repeat myself.

#2 – What is your workflow for your images? Do they mostly consist of single images or also some composites? If you don’t mind, can you walk us through the process from camera to finished image?

Once an idea is in play, I think “Okay, now how am I actually going to shoot this.” I think like a producer – where will I shoot this? Where will I cast the talent? How large a crew will be necessary? What type of gear will I need? What props will I use? Are there permitting and logistical issues I need to consider?

If I’m doing a personal project I’m always on a budget, and that forces me to be creative with my production. I frequently rely on compositing if the locations are exotic in anyway (and by exotic I mean anywhere outside my front door). Oftentimes I’ll shoot the background separately and then shoot the talent in a studio, or in a location that I don’t have to pay for.

#3 – What has the response to your images been? Have you seen doors opened due to your unique style?

I’ve been fortunate to have multiple bodies of work go viral, including my humor and aerial fine art work. I’ve been seriously humbled by the response. It’s a bit surreal to see all these people discussing my work; and it sets the bar high for future projects. That said, having my work out there is fulfilling, but the best part is when I get emails from people saying that my work inspired them in some way. It means so much to me to hear from people who’ve been influenced in some way, great or small, by my imagery.

Doors have opened for me partly because of my style but more importantly doors have opened for me because of hard work. I spend a tremendous amount of time shooting, marketing, working on personal projects and networking. I love what I do so much, and so it doesn’t seem like work. But it’s a helluva a lot of work. The secret to success as a photographer is to work your butt off.

#4 – What do you suggest to a new photographer that can help them develop their own photographic style? How long did it take you to find your groove?

Being a professional photographer is one of those super competitive businesses. I think to be successful you absolutely must have a unique style. This is something that a lot of photographers starting out can have trouble grasping. I didn’t fully understand this at first either. When you pickup a camera and have a certain way of arranging the frame, the composition, the lighting, the mood – all without thinking – then you’re on your way to finding your own personal style. Then, when you combine these aesthetic aspects of photography with the actual content you like to photograph; you most likely already have a style. Ultimately, it’s all about practice.

Shoot, shoot, shoot! It’s common advice, but there’s a good reason for it. Practicing your craft is, bar none, the best way to get better; and to allow your own style to shine through. It’s common sense, sure, but just get out there and do it. That’s the most difficult thing about starting a journey: taking that first step. Then taking the next one and the next, and always looking forward.

I also recommend immersing yourself in the visual arts a much as possible. Go to museums and gallery shows – even if they’re not photography related. If you find yourself drawn to a particular painter, or period, ask yourself what it is that compels you. Look for similarities in your own work.

Be sure to keep up on all the current photography out there in magazines, advertising and the arts. Collect a visual library of things that inspire you. I still do this all the time! Then look back through the library and look for trends. You’ll find that you gravitate towards certain aesthetics. Identify those and see if you find parallels in your own work. If not, try using those as points of inspiration on your next shoot.

#5 – what is your one must-have piece of gear? What can you not live without?

I love geeking out over gear as much as the next photographer. “Ooh checkout the pixel pitch on that sensor!” However, I must say that my one indispensable piece of gear is – drumroll please – Photoshop. On any shoot, we photographers are limited by the scene in front of us. But once we take that image into Photoshop, the only limitation is our imagination.

Bio:

Boston born photographer Zack Seckler took to his craft after graduating from Syracuse University in 2003. He began his career as a photojournalist but in 2008, Seckler found his true passion to be creating imagery from scratch. This transition has been rewarding, resulting in over a dozen major industry awards, a distinguished client list and a budding fine art career. He lives with his wife and two young sons in the suburbs of New York City.

I hope you’ve enjoyed Zack’s images and words of wisdom. You can see more of his work on his website and his Instagram profile.

If you have any questions or comments for him, please leave them below and I’ll make sure that he gets them.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post How Zack Seckler Uses Humor and Style in Photography by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 12, 2015
How to Create and Use Hard and Soft Light in a Studio Setting

When setting up your lights for studio photography, you first need to consider what lighting setup will create the look you are going for. Is your light going to fall into the category of hard light – or will it be soft? What’s the difference?

Let’s first look at the basic characteristics of hard and soft light sources, and the different feel each creates when shooting the same subject.

HARD LIGHT

In general, a single-point light source, aimed from a distance is referred to as hard light, much like our sun on a clear day or a streetlight at night.

This hard light source creates a high contrast look, where the transition between highlights and shadows is sharp and well-defined.

In some cases, this contrast can look harsh (and unwanted).

SOFT LIGHT

On the other hand, a soft light source is a larger, broader, light placed relatively close to the subject. A cloud-covered or overcast day, where diffused sunlight reflects off a large concrete wall would be one example of a soft light source.

The light tends to be flatter in contrast, and the highlights hold more detail, with the shadow’s edges being soft and open.

Generally this is a more pleasing light, but not necessarily the only light-source.

Many factors go into choosing light quality and the type of light source on set. One may be the direction given from an art director or client where you may be asked to match images from an existing campaign. They may want you to recreate a natural lighting condition (such as hot harsh desert sun on a pair of boots, or cool early morning light falling on a table setting).

The subject matter itself can also have a strong influence on your choice of light source. A highly reflective (like glass or chrome), or high-contrast product can be quite the challenge if you try lighting it with a hard light source. Fighting spectral highlights, or holding detail in the shadows and highlights, can be a pain if you have to use hard lighting alone.

If you’re lucky enough to be given creative freedom by the client, or working on a personal project, you might be illustrating a mood or an emotion and will use appropriate lighting needed to create it. Careful choice of lighting, and mixing your hard and soft light sources, will allow you to achieve that.

How to set up for a hard light shoot

For the studio hard-light set, place the key (main) light (a strobe head with a 12” modifier) to the left and slightly behind the subject. The initial beam may be too broad, so to concentrate the light you can add a 35-degree grid to the modifier.

For this setup, final adjustments to the height and position of the key light were made, in order to modify the angle and length of the shadows on the table and floor, as well as to illuminate the edges of the computer screen in a pleasing manner. A 4’x8′ sheet of black foamcore was placed to the right of the set to deepen the shadows and remove unwanted reflections. Two smaller sheets of white foamcore were set low, in front and to either side, to control the amount of detail in the front edge of the table and legs.

A second strobe head with a 7” grid modifier was set high, and to the back of the set. Its angle was adjusted to illuminate the upper right corner of the background, which you can see in the photo (right).

How to set up for a soft light shoot

To create the soft-light look, the key light is set in the same place, but a 4’x4′ full diffusion panel is placed between the light and the subject, just out of the frame. Remove the grid from the key light to broaden the light. The black foamcore is replaced by a sheet of white to fill or open the shadows (but the two sheets out front remain). The background light is pulled back, the grid removed, and a diffusion disk added to soften the beam and cover the entire background. In this way the whole set appears bright and soft and with a lot of ambient light filling the image (left).

How to change a hard light source into a soft one

You may get into a situation where you’ve set up your light source and find you actually want to go the other direction with it. In this case, it is quite easy to change one type of light source into the other. You can diffuse a hard source into being soft, by placing diffusion material between the lighting and the subject, which allows you to control the angle and light gradient. You can also just attach a softbox to the light to soften the light and make it into a broader, even source. You can also take a soft source that you’ve set up and change its distance from the subject in order to make it a harder, more focused light. You can also bounce the light around more using reflectors, umbrellas, or a handy wall in order to soften it and make it less directional.

Combining hard and soft light

The ultimate tip for studio photography is to be flexible with your lighting setup regardless of your years of know-how. You may have an idea in mind for the final look you want for the photograph, but you may find that on set the product looks quite different under various lighting conditions. Be prepared to play around and try things – because often a mixture of both hard and soft light can show the product to its full advantage.

Soft light example with a hard light rim (kicker or accent) light from behind. Notice the hard shadow on the table in front of the cups – that is created by the hard rim light.

Once you have a full understanding of hard and soft light sources, you can combine the two lighting techniques. For example, the set might have a general, overall softness to its light, but you might use a rim (or accent) light to give the shot more mood or dimension, or to accent certain elements of items in frame. Mastering both types of light allows you to have the ultimate control over your lighting, and the final image that comes out of the camera.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post How to Create and Use Hard and Soft Light in a Studio Setting by Craig Wagner appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 11, 2015
Post-Processing Tips for Beginners

They say photography is an art form, and I couldn’t agree more. There are so many elements that go into making a great piece of art. Not only do you need to know your gear and the environment you work in, but you also need to know how to put the finishing touches to your art, that takes it from good to great.

This can be quite challenging especially to a beginner. But like any great artist would say, all of this can be done with a lot of practice and patience. Great photos tend to have universal appeal. They are technically sound, and also have an editing style that appeals to the mass majority. While most photographers, including myself, advocate getting it right in camera, there are some basic steps that you may need to follow just to add the right amount of oomph to your images in the post-processing stage.

Choosing the right type of editing software

The type of editing you apply to your images does depend on the type of software you use. There are many different options for editing software on the market. Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom are two of the most popular ones for serious amateurs, and professional photographers. But if you are an absolute beginner they might be cost prohibitive for your needs. There are some good free editing software, like PicMonkey and Picasa, that work great at a basic level. If you are a cell phone photographer, then most smartphones have built-in editing software that does the job fairly well too. Apart from the basic editing steps they also have a ton of filters for adding some really cool effects to your images. But just be careful of the audience and the purpose for these cell phone images before applying funky filters.

For the purposes of this article, I will be using Lightroom. Most of the steps are common to all editing software, just choose the one that works for you and your photography needs.

Adjust the horizon

One of the first things I do to any image is to adjust the horizon, also known as straightening the image. I am not a fan of tilting my images. I find that when I look at tilted images, I don’t know which way is up. Am I supposed to turn my head to the right or the left? Crazy tilts make me dizzy. I don’t see images in tilts in my day-to-day, so why would I want to click images that are tilted. This is just my personal preference. I know some photographers who consider it very artsy to have tilted images. If that is your thing, then go for it and do what makes you happy. For images that have the horizon or leading lines in them, getting the horizon level is an absolute must.

This was taken from the passenger side of the car – I really loved the leading lines but knew the horizon was way off.

In Lightroom, I adjusted the horizon, increased the contrast gently, and warmed up the image by adjusting the temperature slightly.

Adjust or crop out any unwanted elements

Nothing can be more distracting than an unwanted element in the frame. Before cropping or removing unwanted elements ask yourself whether the object is actually adding value to the image, or is it competing with the subject for attention. Removing unwanted elements can be done by using the clone/stamp tool in Photoshop, the spot healing brush Lightroom or a simple crop function in your photo editor of choice.

I loved the texture of the brick wall but hated the stains on the wall right near the chair.

I chose a closer crop for the chair, and cloned out the stains using the spot removal tool in Lightroom. I also brightened the image a tad.

Remove any dust spots

This is something that is prominent if you are photographing against a light background, or when converting to black and white. If your sensor is dirty or has minute dust specks, they appear in your photographs. You can use the clone tool or even the patch tool (Photoshop) and clean out these dust spots in the image.

Adjust the exposure and contrast

After you have straightened the horizon and removed any unwanted or distracting elements from the frame, next adjust the exposure of the image. This adjusts the brightness. If the image is too dark, add light in and if the image is too bright, reduce light. Keep in mind that often times adjusting brightness will affect the contrast of the image as well. This can be fixed by adjusting the Contrast Slider in Lightroom. It makes the brightest parts of the image brighter and the darkest parts darker, and improves the overall look of the adjusted image.

While I adore this pose of my clients, the image is a little too dark (underexposed) as the light was changing very fast.

As part of my edits to this image, I increased the exposure, warmed up the image by increasing the temperature and also adjusted the contrast a bit to add a little more umph (punch) to the image.

Adjust saturation

Typically if I have adjusted temperature and contrast in an image, I do not adjust the saturation slider. But this is a personal preference for most people. Adjusting the saturation value of an image can add a certain punch to an image, but use this tool with a light hand as you don’t want you image to look too processed.

I love this image of fresh snow on the blades of tall grass near my home. But, because everything was so dark and gloomy due to the snow, the image appears a bit flat and dull.

I wanted to exaggerate the colors of the blades of grass to show that they were extremely dry and also pop-out the white snow on the grass. So I adjusted the saturation and vibrance sliders in Lightroom, and also warmed up the image by adjusting the temperature.

Export for web or print

Depending on what is the final treatment for your images, you can either save them as low resolution JPEGS or high resolution JPEGS. There are many other formats as well like TIFF, BMP, and GIF. JPEG are more universally accepted, and is the format that I use for all my images – the ones for print as well as for the web. Typically an image approximately 72PPI (pixels per inch) is considered as a low resolution image, ideal for the web. An image of 150DPI or 300DPI is considered a high resolution image ideal for print. DPI stands for Dots per inch. Per wikipedia, it is used to describe the resolution number of dots per inch in a digital print.

Ultimately how you process your images is an extremely personal decision. Choose the style and the tools that best describe your photography style. It is okay to experiment with the latest fads, filters, and looks but keep in mind that you may want your images to have a timeless look and feel so that years from now when you look at them, they still evoke an emotion.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post Post-Processing Tips for Beginners by Karthika Gupta appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 10, 2015
26 Cool Images Utilizing the Color Blue

Last couple of weeks we’ve been looking at images of red and yellow, warm colors. So let’s switch it up and go with a cool color – blue!

By David Yu

By Luis Ascenso

By Jeff S. PhotoArt at HDCanvas.ca

By TexasEagle

By Sonny Abesamis

By Adrien Sifre

By geir tønnessen

By Alias 0591

By Eric Bégin

By Neal Fowler

By Thomas Hawk

By Simon Ingram

By Julie Falk

By Pen Waggener

By Paul Nelson

By Jeff Huffman

By Mark Robinson

By Ernie R

By Huds?n

By Tambako The Jaguar

By Chris Combe

By Ronelle

By Ritchard Ton

By Lorna Carlson

By Roy Cheung

By StylishLensT

By Chris Ford

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post 26 Cool Images Utilizing the Color Blue by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 10, 2015
Weekly Photography Challenge – Blue

By Darlene Hildebrandt

By Darlene Hildebrandt

Weekly photography challenge – blue

This week is your chance to find something blue and create a composition around it. Above are a couple of my own images for example. You can see more here and below.

Last week we did yellow – now it’s time to look for the opposite, complementary color and cool things down.

By Jose Casielles

By Raj Stevenson

By Martin Cathrae

By Thomas Hawk

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Blue by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

October 10, 2015
What Michelangelo and Other Great Artists Said About Photography

The words of the wise men can be a great source of motivation in the moments of creative or any other kind of personal crisis. While you probably got used to seeing quotes by renowned photographers in your Twitter or Facebook feed, have you ever wondered what great artists, such as Michelangelo, Salvador Dali, or Claude Monet could say about Continue Reading

The post What Michelangelo and Other Great Artists Said About Photography appeared first on Photodoto.

Photodoto

October 9, 2015
A Guide to Newborn Photography – Preparation, Posing and Post-Processing
Newborn photography is, in my opinion, one of the most rewarding (and difficult) branches that a photographer can get into. I’ve shot numerous hectic weddings where I was physically exhausted afterwards, and had lifestyle sessions where nothing went right, but nothing has even come close to the process involved when taking photos of a precious newborn baby!

Over the years, I’ve learned some insightful tips from interacting with parents, to posing newborns safely, and also my philosophy when it comes to editing. I want to give all of these tips to you, to hopefully fast-forward your newborn photography aspirations and take you to the next level.

Before I dive right in, I want to give you some insight on my background and techniques, so that you can evaluate your style compared to mine, and make adjustments to my tips to suit your photography.

LIGHTING AND SHOOTING PACE

First, I’m a natural light newborn photographer. I will use a continuous lighting system in my studio on the darkest of days, but 99% of the time the only light in my photos is coming from that big fiery ball in the sky. Speaking of studio, I exclusively shoot newborn sessions at my in-home studio space. I’ve converted one of the bedrooms in my home to my shoot-space. You don’t need a huge studio for newborn photography – my small 10×10′ (3×3 meters)room with two windows gives me enough natural light and room to do everything I need to do.

SAFETY

Safety is my absolute number one priority for taking photos of newborns, which I’ll talk more about later in the article. It scares me how many pros and amateurs alike don’t make this step important. While on my soapbox, if you don’t make safety an absolute priority, then you have NO business photographing newborns. Whew – I feel better now.

PREPARATION

Whether you’re a photographer inviting newborns and their parents in, or you’re a parent yourself trying to capture beautiful images of your baby, the steps for preparation are virtually the same.

Here are some great tips to keep in mind when you prepare for the session:
- Warm it up! I close the door to my studio and use a space heater in the corner to warm the room up to about 80-85 degrees F (26-29c). This is usually a great temperature to keep the baby happy, especially if they aren’t swaddled. Be sure to give any clients a heads up about the warmth, and suggest they bring light clothes for themsleves.
- Wash your hands. Take every precaution not to spread germs, especially for a newborn with a weak and developing immune system.
- Do NOT wear jewelry. I always take off my rings, bracelets, earrings, and necklaces. While the likelihood of your jewelry falling off is low, it’s not a zero chance. Keep it simple to keep the baby safe.
- Avoid fragrances. While a newborn’s vision and hearing senses are not too keen, their sense of smell is very sensitive. Don’t wear perfume/cologne, fragrant lotions, or strong hand sanitizers. This can upset the baby quickly.
- Try to create some white noise. Having some white noise can dull any thuds, shuffles, or the sound of the shutter on the camera that may otherwise wake a baby. My space heater serves to not only provide heat, but also gives me plenty of white noise. You may want to consider an app on your phone if the space heater is too far away, or too quiet.
- Get all your props, backdrops, blankets, etc., ready before you take any photos. The less you have to move the baby to set up a new shot, the better.
Another aspect of preparation for photographers working with clients, that isn’t talked about as much, is preparing for newborn parents. As a photographer myself, I have met hundreds of parents who are swelling with pride for bringing life into the world, but who are also completely exhausted. I offer my clients coffee when they arrive to let them know that this is a haven for comfort, and to trust me because I know what they are going through.

You’ll also run into two types of parents while photographing newborns: “hover” parents and “passive” parents. Hover parents may clutch and grab for their baby at the slightest sign of a whimper (which is natural human instinct, by the way), and it can impede your ability to take great photos for them. Passive parents are typically those that are the opposite of hover parents, and I’ve found are usually associated with parents who’ve had multiple children and are pretty laid back about the whole process.

The best solution for interacting with all parents is to make sure they’re properly informed before the session begins. Reassure them that their baby’s safety is your number one priority, go over your process with them, and make sure you openly communicate about their baby during the session. This will help ease any concerns a nervous new parent may have.

POSING

I LOVE natural newborn poses, and I try my best to capture the precious little miracle, and show how they are naturally. I do own a newborn posing beanbag (which I highly recommend purchasing) that has curves, allowing me prop the baby up, or lay them down. There are literally hundreds of guides on the internet about how to pose a newborn, so I won’t go into the different specific poses and setups here. However, I will go over the basics, and get into some more in-depth and technical aspects. If you have no idea how to start posing a baby, start with those guides before you ever (read: ever, ever, ever) actually take photos of a newborn!

Like I’ve stated numerous times already, MAKE SAFETY FIRST! Natural poses are also safe because there’s very little risk involved if the baby twitches or moves spontaneously. While the baby is posed naturally, I’ll also snag some macro feature shots of the baby’s unique features like their cute little noses, tiny feet and toes, and the adorable little lips they have. Posing the baby naked, or swaddled with blankets, is something that you’ll decide, hopefully after a conversation with the baby’s parents to see what they prefer, and what photo theme they want.

You WILL eventually run into a fussy baby at times while posing during the session. It’s pretty rare to have a newborn that gives you no issues at all. That being said, you can prep the baby beforehand to increase your chances of successful posing. I always ask the parents to plan a feeding right before the session begins. Full belly = a happy baby most of the time. However, this isn’t the be-all-end-all solution for some newborns. I’ve been affectionately called the “baby whisperer” by many of my clients because I can typically sense what the baby wants, but I do so by using cues that the baby provides.

A hungry newborn will cry and root, sometimes shaking their heads back and forth and opening their mouths (kind of like a fish) as they look for a food source, i.e. Mommy. Another symptom of being fussy can stem from being cold. Look for tiny goosebumps on their skin to see if they’re too cold. The newborn baby may also be gassy, which can be tough to detect many times, but usually happens in a delay after a feeding. Sometimes it feels impossible to detect what may be causing the baby to be upset. I’ve found that often this is due to the newborn being just slightly uncomfortable or restless. You can calm a a fussy little one by doing some very soft rubs on their forehead or back, or some very light taps on their bottoms. Every baby is different in what they like so it may take some trial and error.

Photo one (left) holding the baby’s head for safety. Photo two (middle) holding the baby’s head from below for safety. Photo three (right) the two combined to make it appear that the baby’s head is resting on its hands.

While I prefer to naturally pose the baby, I will also do a few “risky” shots for variety, and that artistic touch. I put risky in quotes because these photos would be completely unsafe normally, but with composite editing in Photoshop, you can merge safe images together to create the artistic illusion you may be going for. Classic examples of this would be the head propped on hands photo (see above picture), hammock photos, or anything where the baby is perched on some object. By the way, you should never do these photos in one take – use the composite route! Just do a quick Google search for “composite newborn images” for step-by-step instructions on how to pull this off.

POST-PROCESSING

As a natural light photographer, I don’t typically manipulate the light in too many of my photos in Photoshop. I’ll make some tweaks here and there, but my biggest adjustments are typically associated with skin smoothing (although I also do some touching-up in post-processing). Slightly overexposing images helps with smoothing the baby’s skin, and shooting in RAW can help you correct any exposure or color issues along the way.

Here’s a tip – you don’t need a massive studio with a huge backdrop to create gorgeous images from far away. Take the example before/after photo above (sans newborn baby) – some minor editing and blending can create fabulous images you’ll be proud of. Just search for some floor/backdrop fading tutorials online for details and step-by-step instructions on how to do it.

Using the clone tool, the blend tool, and creating/manipulating layer masks in Photoshop, you can create exactly what you are after in a “look”. Digital Photography School has some basic Photoshop tips that are fabulous!

In the end, you’ll need to decide what your style is, and what you want your photos to look like. My style includes editing out the skin imperfections on the newborns, but leaving certain features on macro shots (like skin flakes, birth marks, some baby acne, etc.), but there are others in my area that leave the images as they are, with very little touching up. It’s up to you. If someone has hired you, it’s because that person loves your images and the way you edit your photos – stick with it, or try to appeal to a different base.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post A Guide to Newborn Photography – Preparation, Posing and Post-Processing by Elizabeth Moore appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School
October 9, 2015
Tips on Choosing a Free Photo Editor for Post-Processing
A question I get asked a lot is, “What software for post processing would you recommend if you were starting out in photography today?”

Don’t know which photo editor to choose, here are some free options worth considering.

My go-to software for editing photos is Adobe Photoshop. This doesn’t mean I am advocating that Photoshop is the only photo editor worth considering – far from it. I will be using Photoshop as a frame of reference only, and not as a direct comparison to other software products mentioned in this article.

Deciding which Photo Editor can be daunting for a beginner, especially as there are so many to choose from!

However, it is the industry’s number one software for professionals. Prior to the new subscription model, Photoshop was a standalone piece of software and was expensive. But even with the subscription model, it’s a recurrent expense, which over time will amount considerably for your buck.

After doing some research, I was quite amazed at the plethora of photo editing software applications, on the market that are relatively inexpensive to purchase. Most of which equip the beginner with more than enough features and tools to get your images looking great.

Also, most of the applications can be downloaded free, for a limited trial period. This gives you a better idea what it’s like, and you’re able to test the software and its capabilities.

Other products can be downloaded for entirely free and some are even web based, so you don’t have to download any software onto your computer. The disadvantage is that you do need a reliable internet connection. Also, I did find the annoying ads that pop up alongside the interface distracting. An alternative to get rid of these ads is to pay for an upgrade.

Let’s take a look at some of the free options:

Pixlr

Pixlr is a web based, online editing tool. You can create a new image, upload an image, or grab one directly from a URL location. I found this product very intuitive and easy to use. The images load up fast in the web browser. The interface is quite similar to Photoshop. It has all the tools like: layers, lasso tool, brush controls, cloning, and filters.

The Launch screen as it appears when you load Pixlr in your web browser.

You have four options to choose from when you go to open your file. It’s that easy.

Ok, so where do you start with your post-processing?

When you have your image open, duplicate it so that you keep the original intact. That way, if you completely mess up, don’t worry, you still have the original to begin again.

Post editing is a skill. It does take patience and time to master.

Color correction

I would consider color correction an important area to begin your post-processing.

The Levels setting exists in many image editors. It is a powerful tool for adjusting the tones (contrast) in your image, and for making color adjustments. In Photoshop, you select Layer> New Adjustment Layer > Levels. In Photoshop Elements choose Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Levels. Other image editors place it differently, but essentially it does the same job. The Levels setting is a bit daunting and complex to begin with, but I do feel it is worth the time to get to know.

The Levels dialog box has an image histogram which is similar to the display on the back of your camera. A simple explanation of the histogram is: the shadows (blacks) are on the far left, mid-tones (grays) are in the middle and the highlights (whites) are on the far right. So by adjusting any of the sliders on the bottom, you will affect the contrast of your image.

The Levels setting on the left belongs to Pixlr, and on the right is the Levels adjustment as it appears in Photoshop CS6.

Okay, but what about the color of the image?

An easy way to adjust color correction is by changing the color channels which are found in the Levels dialog box. The default setting is RGB in Pixlr.

Where you find the Levels setting in Pixlr.

Go to Adjustment Tab and select Levels. Click on the downward arrow next to RGB in Channel, this brings up a drop-down menu for the red, green and blue channels. Choose the first one, which is red. Look at the histogram graph and check for gaps in it.

The colour channels appear in a drop down menu by clicking on the small arrow to the right of RGB.

For this image, as it is quite over-exposed a lot of the shadow detail is lost (overly gray and no black in the image), see left of the graph. Move the shadow slider to the right, in towards the middle, where the graph starts to go up.

You want your graph to represent a nice mountain shape starting from the shadows rising high in the midtones and back down to the highlights. See photo. Repeat this process for the other two channels. Click back to RGB.

To add some contrast, just move the middle slider (mid-tones) to the right, see photo below. There is a lot more to learn about the Levels adjustment, but this is just an easy way for beginners to start.

Before and after colour correction on the RGB channels using Pixlr.

Some other alternative web based solutions are SumoPaint, which has a similar interface to Photoshop, and another called PicMonkey.

SumoPaint

Similar to Pixlr, SumoPaint was very easy to use. I was able to adjust the color correction on this image using the Levels adjustment and modifying the color channels, as I did using Pixlr.

If you prefer to download software onto your computer. Again there is a wide choice of free products available.
- Paint.net, which is Windows based.
- Picasa is Google’s photo manager and editor. It plugs into Google+.
Photoscape

Here’s another one that you may or may not have come across, called Photoscape. This software is packed with excellent features for free. It has a built-in image viewer, which lets you see all your images quickly at a glance using thumbnails. It also has a Batch Editor, so if you apply an edit to one photo or resize it – using the Batch Editor will apply the same edit to multiple images. It even has a RAW Converter. For beginners, it offers image cropping, brightness and colour adjustment, red eye removal, and some great effects too. It does appear to more intuitive and offer a less steep learning curve for beginners.

Photoscape

Main editor tools in Photoscape

Adding frames in Photoscape

Edit photo edge in Photoscape

Preview, which is Apple’s built-in image and document viewer for OS X, surprised me. It has the capability to crop, resize, and do color adjustment which was quite impressive.

Conclusion

In summing up, there is a vast range of post-processing image editors to choose from. In this article, I only hinted at a mere few. The list is endless!

As a guide for beginners, I would experiment with the free options and test them out for yourself. There is no financial investment only your time. The time invested will give you a better idea which application suits you best in the long run.

Post-processing does require time, no matter how skillful you become at it. Once you have established a certain level of skill at post editing, you can then graduate to purchasing a reasonable priced standalone image editor, if you prefer.

Example products are:
- ACDsee19 for $ 59.99
- Photoshop Elements 14 for $ 99.00
- Adobe Lightroom 6 for $ 149.00
- Affinity Photo for the Mac is only for $ 49.99
- PhotoPlusx8 for $ 99.99
Or you could simply download GIMP, (some equate this software as being powerful to Photoshop) which is an open source image editor with versions available for Windows, OS X, and Linux. There are lots of tutorials and resources already on the web to help you further with this software.

In fact, if I was new to photography and I had to decide which photo editor to pick, I would feel spoilt for choice!

Disclaimer: I was not contacted or sponsored to test any of the above software applications. Opinions are purely by the author only.

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

googletag.cmd.push(function() {
mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

The post Tips on Choosing a Free Photo Editor for Post-Processing by Sarah Hipwell appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School
October 8, 2015