Category: Photography

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Big and Heavy

    Previously I shared 26 solid images of heavy items done by other photographers. Things like:

    • trains
    • planes
    • automobiles
    • machines
    • large animals
    • things made of steel and metal
    • heavy metal bands if you want to stretch the meaning

    You get the idea. We know this thing is heavy! On the arms and the pocketbook!

    Nathan Rupert

    By Nathan Rupert

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Heavy

    I’ve given you some ideas below but put your own spin on interpreting this one. It could even be heavy hearted, a footprint impression in the sand, you name it. Just go out with the idea of finding something to represents the them of heavy and photograph it in its best light, composition, and make it stand out.

    Alan Cleaver

    By Alan Cleaver

    RayMorris1

    By RayMorris1

    .craig

    By .craig

    Geoffrey

    By Geoffrey

    Vxla

    By vxla

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Big and Heavy by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Grow As a Photographer in 2016

    Ok, so if you’re like everyone else in the free world, you made some great resolutions this New Year. The three big ones are lose that extra weight, stop drinking so much, and become a better… person, dad, wife, or, if you’re reading this column, photographer. Well, you and I both see that cookie in our hands, and Bunco and Continue Reading

    The post How to Grow As a Photographer in 2016 appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • 26 Solid Images of Heavy Items

    Earlier we looked at images of lightweight objects and how some photographers captured their essence.

    So how about some heavy items? Large, bulky, hefty, ominous. How would you photograph a large heavyweight thing? Let’s see how these photographers did it:

    Gerry Balding

    By Gerry Balding

    Mikael T

    By Mikael T

    @mopictures

    By @mopictures

    Tom Gill

    By Tom Gill

    Jonathan Gross

    By Jonathan Gross

    Jdegenhardt

    By jdegenhardt

    Dawn Beattie

    By Dawn Beattie

    Patrick Buechner

    By Patrick Buechner

    Nutmeg66

    By nutmeg66

    Paulius Malinovskis

    By Paulius Malinovskis

    CameliaTWU

    By CameliaTWU

    Donnie Nunley

    By Donnie Nunley

    Mark Iocchelli

    By Mark Iocchelli

    Ville Miettinen

    By Ville Miettinen

    Des Morris

    By Des Morris

    Steve Evans

    By Steve Evans

    David Marvin

    By David Marvin

    Aidan

    By Aidan

    Mariano Mantel

    By Mariano Mantel

    Nicki

    By Nicki

    Dave Shea

    By Dave Shea

    Anton Bielousov

    By Anton Bielousov

    RayMorris1

    By RayMorris1

    Caitlin

    By Caitlin

     

    Carlos Andrés Reyes

    By Carlos Andrés Reyes

    Rachel Melton

    By Rachel Melton

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post 26 Solid Images of Heavy Items by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session

    Whenever a camera appears, you can bet your caboose that there are emotions swirling for 99% of the human population. From fear and disdain, to reverting to the classic Chandler Bing smile, people tend to exaggerate or warp their behaviour in front of the camera in endlessly inventive ways. But unless you’re going for a Sears portrait look, your job as a photographer is to not only deliver an end-product that thrills your clients, it’s to make the shoot an awesome experience as well.

    Here are nine of my favorite, tried-and-true strategies for helping clients forget about the camera, and have a good old time on their shoot.

    DpsCouplesimage1

    1 – Model the behaviour you want

    A shoot can be fraught with stress, so for the love of Annie Leibowitz, don’t add to it. When people arrive at a shoot, they are almost invariably nervous, and will be looking to you for all their cues. Take the lead in creating the atmosphere you’re hoping for, and your clients will follow suit almost subconsciously. You have a huge opportunity to model the relaxed, joyful, behaviour you want to capture, simply by setting the tone and mood of the shoot from the get-go!

    This is so simple, but laugh. Crack jokes, if that’s your thing. Show them you’re willing to get weird, and it’ll liberate them to fall into a relaxed zone that brings out great images. It’s not about putting on a performance, but about being so yourself and comfortable in your own skin, that your clients can’t help but do the same.

    DpsCouplesimage2

    2 – Learn to read people

    On that note, hone in your ability to read your clients so they really feel seen as individuals, and not two-dimensional subjects, and adapt to their specific personality. In many ways you have to be a chameleon, ready to provide to whatever the client might need from you to make them comfortable. We usually talk a lot throughout our shoots, and have found that most people react well to constant positive feedback, but not everyone wants a running commentary. There’s a fun balancing act to figure out what your client will respond to, and this is a good life skill as well.

    DpsCouplesimage3

    3 – Find an in

    Whether it’s talking baseball, vintage cars, or Japanese flower arranging, finding some common ground can put even the stiffest of the stiff more at ease. They’ll loosen up, see you as a teammate, and get more invested in following whatever direction you have for them. We’ve established trust with clients by talking with them about everything from beers in Thailand, to Tom Brady’s throwing motion. Chat it out, listen for non-sequiturs and when you find an in, go for it.

    4 – Treat your camera like a commonplace object

    By treating your camera like it ain’t no thang, with no more emotion connected to it than a chair or a mailbox, you can help couples forget that it’s there (well, almost). When starting a shoot, spend as much time as possible chatting, and relaxing with the couple before you ever lift the camera. Hold it in your hand as if it’s no more consequential than a cup of coffee. This action may seem subtle, but your clients are looking to you for their behavioural cues, and treating the camera like something to not think twice about, will allow them to consider it equally as casually.

    DpsCouplesimage4

    5 – Have the subject help you design the shoot

    Giving your clients plenty of say in the terms of how the shoot goes, is a huge key to making them relaxed. Doing extra legwork ahead of time, like guiding them with their outfits and locations, allows them to show up already feeling invested and in control over much of their experience. The old relationship advice that “communication is key” could not be more apt. Spending time before the shoot helping people feel like their voice is being heard, is central to great images.

    DpsCouplesimage5

    6 – Tell a better story

    We’ve all been that novice photographer who, in a desperate attempt to capture a mirthful photo of unrehearsed laughter, says something panicked like “okay, now make each other laugh”. That’s not funny, y’all! You gotta be more creative than that. If you’re photographing a couple, ask one of them to tell the other about their most embarrassing childhood moment, using only interpretive dance. Tell them to reenact their first meeting, using emotive eye contact, instead of words. Get detailed and ridiculous in these requests, because then you’ll be able to fully leap into #7.

    DpsCouplesimage6

    7 – Shoot between the lines

    You likely won’t keep the image of the poor guy interpretive dancing, but you’ll probably keep the one of the couple cracking up together in between moves. Here’s the real secret to natural looking photos – the in-between photos ARE the photos. The unposed, unrehearsed, laughing at fart jokes, or because your photographer told you they were “just going to test the light” but really you’re capturing them enjoying life together. Those are the images that end up being keepers. Keep that camera at the ready and shoot between the lines to get the good stuff.

    DpsCouplesimage7

    8 – Keep those hands moving

    Every once in a while, we’ll leave the open-ended coaching behind and give a people a very specific pose to try. And no matter what the pose is, no matter how natural it felt when they first tried it, it’s going to get clunky-looking if you make them hold it for long enough. There are a few reasons why someone might need to keep a general pose for a bit — if you’re grabbing different angles, shooting with unique lenses, etc. — but our big piece of advice for them is to always keep their hands moving. With the free-reign to move their hands in whatever way feels natural to them, they’ll avoid the stiff prom-pose look, while still keeping the general idea of the pose you gave them. It sounds silly, but this one seriously works.

    9 – Get your own photo taken – often

    If you are amongst the hordes of photographers and humans who hate having their own photo taken, this piece of advice goes double for you. You MUST MUST MUST put yourself in your clients’ shoes! Be uncomfortable! Learn what strange tics you have. Know how to comfortably have your photo taken, so you know firsthand how to coach your clients. Standing in their shoes is our number one piece of advice, because as you teach yourself to be in photos comfortably, it’ll become ever-easier to coach your clients to do the same. Get thee in front of a lens. You’ll be a better photographer for it.

    So while you may not be able to alleviate someone’s multiple decade love/hate relationship with having their photo taken, focusing on making each client’s shoot experience stellar is the first step on the road to the beautiful, natural, photos you and your client are aiming for. Because if you aren’t having fun, why bother?

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session by Tim Sullivan appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Understanding Natural Light Part 3: Direction of Light

    Light has different qualities, and by understanding those differences and using them in your favour, you can become a better image maker.

    In two previous articles I covered:

    • Understanding Natural Light Part 1: Quality of Light
    • Understanding Natural Light Part 2: Color of Light

    Mix1
    In this third chapter, you will learn:

    • How to control the direction of natural light in the field.
    • How to understand the different effects the direction of light will have on your portraits. How to mix light colors to create depth.
    • A few advanced techniques, like using reflectors or flags.
    • How to practice using exercises.

    Please note that as a portrait photographer, I will be discussing portraits, and using them as examples. However, this knowledge applies to any kind of photography.

    Working with natural light does not mean compromising

    Most people will tell you that while working with artificial lighting will allow you to fully control the lighting situation in your shooting, working exclusively with natural light will limit your ability to control the lighting to almost zero. In my opinion, this false assumption is leading many photographers to mediocre images. Stating that the lighting is poor, because “that’s how it was” when they made the photo, is not acceptable.

    So, the first step in controlling natural light is to carefully plan your time of the shoot. In the preview articles, we have discussed how the quality and color of light are affected by time, and weather, during the day. Now, let’s understand how the direction of light will change throughout the day, and how it will affect the lighting situation in our portraits.

    Frontal lighting

    Frontal lighting refers to light which comes directly in front of your subject (the light source is behind you and the camera). The situation is possible or when your subject is facing the light source (for example face directed to a setting or a rising sun). Another possibility is with reflected light. Like in this image, Dialsiz was standing in the shade, but in front of her was a bright sunny wall, reflecting the sunlight directly on her face.

    1b

    Pros: Frontal lighting will usually illuminate your subject’s face evenly, without any shadows. It will create an aesthetic and balanced look, which is why this setup is very popular in fashion and beauty shoots.

    Cons: The lack of shadows will create a lack and depth and drama.

    45 degree lighting

    As the name suggests, this refers to a situation where the light comes from an angle of 45 degrees from the nose of your subject. This is extremely popular lighting setup in portrait photography, which is sometimes called Rembrandt lighting. It can be easily achievable with side light coming from a rising or setting sun, or by positioning your subject at a 45 degree angle to a window.

    26b

    Pros: in this lighting setup, you will note how the light illuminates your subject’s face gradually. Creating a gradual shadow, and in our two dimensional art form, shadows usually mean depth and volume. That is the reason this setup is so appealing in the eyes of most viewers.

    Cons: The dramatic effect of shadowing parts of the subject’s face might not be suitable for your visual story.

    90 degree lighting

    As the name suggests, this refers to a situation where the light comes from an angle of 90 degrees from the nose of your subject. It can be achievable with side light coming from a rising or a setting sun or by positioning your subject at a 90 degree angle to a window.

    F11A1636

    42

     

    Pros: Extremely dramatic effect, which is almost impossible to ignore.

    Cons: This dramatic lighting setup can be a little over dramatic, and with the right subject, this lighting can be scary! It all depends of course, on what you want to evoke in your visual story.

    Backlighting

    This refers to a situation where the light comes from behind your subject, and in front of you.

    IMG 9185b

    Pros: Backlight will create highlights in the contours of your subject, and unlike with frontal lighting, this will create a sense of depth, and a clear separation between the subject and the background. Unless the light source is very dim and fully covered by your subject’s body, working with backlight will force you to be creating with your photography, as it will make the exposure a bit more difficult. This is where switching from the automatic mode can be handy. While overexposing can be good for creating a burned out background or a lens flare, underexposure will usually result in a nice silhouette (as above)

    Cons: As mentioned, this one is a bit more advanced to handle, and will mostly require switching out of your camera’s automatic mode, but again, a great opportunity for some creative photography.

    Light from above

    This refers to a situation where the light comes from directly above your subject, like during midday.

    F11A0035b

     

    Pros: This interrogation room style lighting setup will not be flattering to most faces. Light coming from above will result in deep shadows on your subject’s face, making the forehead shadow the eyes, and making the nose shadow the chin. However, it can be used as a way of creating a very dramatic image. Oscar-winning Cinematographer Gordon Hugh Willis, did a groundbreaking work in Francis Ford Coppola’s movie, The Godfather, with the combination of underexposing and positioning the lighting source above the actors’ faces. He managed to support the dark and mysterious sense of this movie, with the audience was unable to see most eyes throughout the movie.

    Cons: As mentioned, when handled right, this lighting setup, can lead to great and creative results. Otherwise, you subject will look like he or she is going to answer some tough questions.

    Controlling natural light

    Basic: in the simplest form, controlling natural light is first in the planning. Choose the right time to be outside, or take your subject indoors to use the soft light coming from a window.

    Advanced: You can control natural light almost like controlling artificial lighting, with the help of reflectors or/and flags.

    Reflectors are used to bounce light into the subject’s face. For example, if you are dealing with light coming from above, you can overcome the problem of dark eyes by illumining them using a reflector. It can also lighten the dark side of the face, if needed, in the case of lighting from a 45 or 90 degree angle.

    F11A1258b 1

    2
    You can see the reflection of the reflector used to bounce light back into this man’s face.

    A flag is usually a piece of black fabric that can be used to block unwanted light and create shadows (shadows mean a sense of depth remember?) on the subject’s face. To use a flag properly, you will need somebody or something that can hold it. That is the way I use all kind of flags in the field. I have used my hat (which I was holding in my left hand) to shadow an overexposed forehead numerous times, or using the help of an innocent bystander that was asked to stand in one spot for a moment, to create a shadow when needed.

    Exercise #1:

    Christmas (or just after it) is the best time to ask for a favor. Bring your favorite friend, family member, or pet, and position it in front of a window. While moving your subject, practice the concepts of frontal, back, 90 degree and 45 degree lighting setups. Examine the images, and get a deeper understating of how light direction will affect your portrait.

    Exercise #2:

    Reflectors are effective and fun to use. You can buy yourself a reflector, or prepare one with a small piece of cardboard and a simple aluminum foil.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post Understanding Natural Light Part 3: Direction of Light by Oded Wagenstein appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • An Introduction to Street Photography for New Photographers

    You may have seen a lot of candid photography all over the Internet and wondered, what is it all about? If you’ve never tried it before, or only have a bit of experience, I am going to lay out a roadmap to help you get started and improve your street photography.

    Street Corner, SoHo, NYC.

    Street Corner, SoHo, NYC.

    Street photography is the art of capturing life, culture, and humanity, in a candid manner. It is fascinating because a small percentage of photographers seem to be naturally drawn to it. Even before hearing about the phrase street photography, which can be a clunky term anyway, there are many photographers who prefer to point their cameras in the direction of culture and people that they’ve never met before, over mountains, sunsets, and landscapes.

    However, if you haven’t done it before, street photography can be very intimidating to actually pull off. It’s one thing to admire it from afar, but it’s another to get in there and get your hands dirty. I promise though, that it’s a ton of fun and is a very rewarding art form to practice.

    Here is list of my favorite tips to get you off and running.

    1. Just do it

    Construction Workers, Lower East Side, NYC.

    Construction Workers, Lower East Side, NYC.

    You can have all the tips in the world to get started. I can explain all of the techniques that I have learned from others and found so helpful over the years, and I will cover them here, but nothing beats pure, unbridled enjoyment and enthusiasm. No matter how much you learn, nothing beats the experience gained by being out there.

    Street photography is one of the most difficult forms of photography, because it is so unplanned. A world of content is out there for you, and it is your job to go find it. You must develop your own visual language, to be able to see interesting moments, then to figure out how to capture them all in a quick, spontaneous instant. This takes regular practice. I’ve been doing street photography for nearly 15 years, and any time I take a month off (usually in the depressing February winter in New York), I feel very rusty when I grab the camera again.

    Put in the hours, experience trumps everything. Enjoy the feeling of being out there, because it’s necessary to love it, to be able to put in the time to be successful.

    2. Technical skills

    Here are a few of the technical skills that are most important for street photography. I try to have my camera set up in a way so that I almost forget it’s there. So, it’s just me, and what I am seeing, and the camera doesn’t get in the way.

    Bergdorf Goodman, 5th Avenue, NYC.

    Bergdorf Goodman, 5th Avenue, NYC.

    There are many different ways to set up your camera, but I prefer to shoot in Shutter Priority mode with a shutter speed around 1/250th of a second. That is a good minimum, to make sure you can freeze the motion of your subjects. In dimmer light, you can go to 1/160th and even 1/125th and still be okay. In strong sunlight you can go all the way up to 1/400th or 1/500th, but 1/250th is the number to keep in mind (as a good starting point).

    Raise your ISO. There is no reason to go below ISO 400 for street photography, and I suggest staying between ISO 800 and 3200 when you’re not in bright sunlight. The reason is because, if you want to shoot at 1/250th, and you also want to use as small an aperture as possible, then something has to give, and that is the ISO.

    You might be asking why it’s good to use a small aperture for street photography. That’s a creative choice of course, and sometimes the light is so low that you must shoot with as wide an aperture as possible. There are street photographers that prefer the look of a shallow depth of field for all their work. However, there are a few reasons why I believe a small aperture, and a lot of DOF is preferable. Because of the spontaneity, you never know where your subject is going to be, or if you are going to have multiple subjects at different depths. In addition, if you happen to miss the focus a bit, your subject will still be sharp if you are using a larger DOF. Finally, context is important. You are capturing culture, and surroundings are a part of the story. Do you really want to blur the surroundings away? The environment is a major part of street photography.

    Greene Street, SoHo, NYC.

    Greene Street, SoHo, NYC.

    While a prime lens is not necessary, it can be very important for street photography, for a few reasons. First of all, zoom lenses are heavy and large. A small, light prime makes your camera a pleasure to carry around, and it looks much less imposing to your subjects. In addition, it can be a big advantage to get used to using a single focal length. You will start to learn how your camera sees, in a faster, and more intuitive way. I can’t overstate the previous sentence. When I wrote about forgetting that the camera is there, a prime lens is very important for this.

    I prefer to use wide-angle primes, with 35mm and 50mm being my favorite. I like the wide-angle view because it will make you get closer to your subjects. In addition, the viewpoint will allow your foreground subjects to be more prominent and larger in the frame, while still being able to fit in more of the background, since it will be proportionally smaller. It’s a great look. If you are using a cropped camera, remember that a 35mm lens might not actually be a true 35mm view because of the crop factor, so try one that is the equivalent of a 35mm view.

    3. Take photos for yourself

    It is certainly important to see other people’s viewpoints and to pay attention to the images that they like, but I want you to focus on photographing for yourself. Capture an image that you love, first and foremost, and don’t worry if other people don’t get it. Street photography is still a niche genre, compared to other photography forms such as landscape, and because of that there are a lot of people that aren’t used to it.

    Take weird images, take personal images, take ugly images, and take risks with what you capture. Be creative and have a good time. The more your images become a reflection of your voice and what you like, the better your work will be.

    Panhandler, Broadway, NYC.

    Panhandler, Broadway, NYC.

     

    4. Shoot in a variety of locations and show us your area

    A busy street corner in New York is usually the first place that comes to mind when people think about street photography, as it should be. New York has such a diversity of content, and that’s the reason why it’s one of the great meccas for street photography, but it is also only a very small part of the entire street photography world.

    Street photography can, and should, be done anywhere. It can be done indoors, in coffee shops, at events, along country roads, or in small towns – you name it. Street photography is about culture and life. It is an idea, and a feeling. It doesn’t even need to have people in the images, just the hint of people.

    The more you are able to capture images in the course of your daily life, the better you will become at it. Your images will be more personal and unique. For this reason, I suggest considering eventually trying a smaller camera, such as a Fuji X100T, a micro 4/3rds or mirrorless camera, or even a mobile phone camera, for the times where you don’t feel like bringing your large SLR. These cameras make it fun to capture images on a daily basis. You might bring one of these smaller cameras on a trip to the corner store, whereas a larger SLR would be more cumbersome for that situations.

    5. Pick a location and wait there

    Canal Street, NYC.

    Canal Street, NYC.

    It can be intimidating to photograph people candidly. I still feel pretty intimidated, depending on the situation. To offset this, one of my favorite techniques is to pick a location, and just hang out there for awhile. Find a spot where you think an interesting moment could happen, and then wait for it to unfold.

    By waiting and not walking, you will spend more time looking around and watching, as opposed to moving. Then, when that moment happens, you will already be in position, and ready with your camera to capture it. Also, your subjects will be entering your space, instead of you encroaching on their space. If you are walking down a street and see someone that you want to photograph, it’s much tougher to get in their space, and still take a good candid photograph. By stopping and letting them come to you, not only will you be ready with your camera, but you can make it look like you are just photographing the surrounding area and they happened to enter your scene.

    Go back to the same locations, over and over again at different times, and in different light. The more you get used to a location, the more you can anticipate what will happen there, and the more comfortable you will become photographing in the area. Also, people will start to get used to you being there.

    Of course you should still walk around, but I prefer to break up long walks, with periods of waiting in good locations.

    6. My favorite trick

    Cortlandt Alley, NYC.

    Cortlandt Alley, NYC.

    A natural reaction after you take a photo is to immediately take your camera away from your eye briefly. Take a picture and see. This is the number one thing that will tip someone off that you’ve taken their photograph. We don’t want to be too sneaky and creepy, but we also don’t want every person we’ve photographed to know, and stop us to figure out what we’re doing. That’s just tedious.

    Whenever I capture an image of someone, I try not to remove the camera from my eye. I leave it there as they walk through the scene, as if I was trying to photograph the background and they got in the way. If you watch other photographers do this, you will see that sometimes the subjects will first think, “Hey did that person take my photo”, they will look back, and when they see the photographer with the camera still at their eye they will likely keep going, thinking that they were just in the way.

    The flip side to this is when you are in an empty area, instead of a busy one. It is tougher to do this trick when there are only a couple people around, so what I will do in these situations is to aim up above, or to the side of the person, like I am photographing a building or a nice background. I will pretend to take an image or two, and then at the last second I will move the camera so that they are in the scene, in the right composition. I will quickly take the picture and remove the camera from my eye. When done right, it looks like you photographed the area above or next to them.

    7. Don’t be too creepy

    Cellphones, Nolita, NYC.

    Cellphones, Nolita, NYC.

    When I teach people street photography for the first time, there are inevitably those who will take five or six, or even twelve photos of one person. If you see a scene improving while you are photographing it, of course you should continue to capture the scene, but taking five or six candid photos of a person can get down right uncomfortable.

    What we are doing, in my opinion, is a good thing. We are capturing and immortalizing culture and people. We do this because we like people, and unfortunately even when done as respectfully as possible, it is still a little bit creepy. We just have to accept that this is a worthy endeavor that offsets the slight creep factor. However, when you go to full on creep, it just gets uncomfortable for everyone. You don’t need to capture seven photos of a person. You don’t need to point your camera at a person for 30 seconds straight, while still pretending that you are not photographing them. If you want to do that, go up to them and ask for a portrait instead.

    Take an image or two, then stop and reassess. If you see the scene developing further, put your camera down for a second. Act like you’re looking around for a way to capture the background, or pretend to play with your camera, and let the scene develop. Then, take another picture or two as it does. Just try not to point your camera at one person for too long.

    8. Smile and carry a business card

    Skateboarder, Broadway, NYC.

    Skateboarder, Broadway, NYC.

    The more confident you act, the less people will notice you and care. If you look at master street photographers who have done this for a long time, many of them look almost invisible out there. This is not because they are necessarily sneakier, it’s because they carry themselves like they belong. They seem comfortable. When people see someone comfortably photographing in an area, they instinctively think that person belongs there. When they see someone who looks uncomfortable, like they are sneaking around, they will instinctively think they are are up to no good.

    Whenever someone stops me and asks if I took their photo, I smile, say yes, and tell them that I’m a photographer doing a cultural project capturing daily life, and I thought they looked fabulous and had to capture them as part of the project (flattery goes a long way). I tell them I didn’t mean to make them uncomfortable, but it was just how I had to go about capturing the images. I carry cards to show them that I am a legitimate photographer and tell them to email me and I will send them the photo. After this, if they still seem very uncomfortable, I will offer to delete it. I’ve only ever had to delete two photos after a couple people asked me nicely. I’ve never had a bad interaction.

    Of course, that doesn’t mean that others haven’t. Some photographers have certainly had bad interactions. You should make sure to pick the people that you photograph wisely, perhaps staying away from capturing someone that looks like they had a terrible day, or someone that looks angry or disturbed. Those are the situations where you are more apt to get yourself in trouble. Street smarts are important.

    9. Capture images without people

    Scaffolding, Broadway, NYC.

    Scaffolding, Broadway, NYC.

    Usually the first thing that comes to mind when street photography is mentioned, is an image of an interesting looking person, walking down the street. That is a part of street photography, but there is so much more to it.

    Capture environmental images in ways that still have the feeling of a traditional street photograph. Show culture and people in ways other than just capturing them directly. Figure out how to show stories, capture ideas, and foster feeling and mood in an image. Photograph in locations where others may not think to take pictures.

    10. Capture expressions

    One of the skills that all the great photographers have is their ability to capture expressions. This applies as much to street photographers, as it does to portrait ones. Look to capture people’s emotions. Do they look happy, sad, pensive, or angry? I always try to look at my subject’s eyes, and wait for them to give a look that exposes something going on in their head. Usually that look doesn’t come, but when it does, I’m ready for it. This is one of the most difficult things to both notice and capture, and it comes with experience. Try hard to notice it.

    Student, Broadway, NYC.

    Student, Broadway, NYC.

    11. Edit and sequence your photos

    Editing is just as important for your success as a photographer, as going out and shooting. Download and learn Lightroom, and learn to organize your photos well. I mark my best photos with three and five stars, to choose the decent and best photos from the day. Spend a lot of time reviewing, and narrowing down your photos, to the best of the best.

    Start grouping your photos together. Learn which images work together, and figure out the reasons why. What are you trying to say and show? Can a sequence of your images create an interesting narrative? Use collections in Lightroom to group images together, without actually moving their location on the computer. Over time, you will start to identify themes, and ideas in your work, and it will help you figure out which images are your best. It will also help you know where you need to improve.

    You will find that doing this will quickly help you improve when you are out shooting. The more time you spend organizing and thinking about your work, the more in-tune you will be to notice images that fit in, when you are out shooting. This is a way to help develop your voice in your photography.

    12. Look at the work of other photographers

    Spend a lot of time exploring the work of other photographers. This will both train your eye, and give you inspiration. It will quickly become a humbling experience. As a photographer, you don’t need to reinvent the wheel. So much has been done before, by photographers who spent decades doing it. What you need to figure out, is how to give your images a personal and modern take.

    Look at both modern photographers, and go through lists of the old masters. Look at work done on busy street corners, and in quiet towns. Take it all in, then figure out what you relate to most, and build on that in your work.

    13. Perfection is overrated

    Greene Street, SoHo, NYC.

    Greene Street, SoHo, NYC.

    As a photographer, you need to become technically proficient with the camera. You need to learn to take sharp photos, that are well composed. You need to learn to see the light well. It is absolutely necessary for your growth. This is similar to a painter learning the fundamentals, before eventually gaining their voice, and going off in their own direction.

    Once you have done this, is when you start to see that perfection in an image can sometimes be overrated. Your images don’t all have to be perfectly sharp, or perfectly composed. Sometimes a technical mistake will ruin a photo, but other times it may make it. Each image is completely different, and will work for completely different reasons. It is obvious when an image is ruined technically because a photographer didn’t know what they were doing, whereas it is different when it is just due to the situation presented to the photographer. If you take a look at the work of Garry Winogrand, so many of his images were slightly off-kilter. These days photographers might have decided to straightened them up a bit in Lightroom, but when you look at Winogrand’s work all together, that slight off-kilter look adds a sense of realness and spontaneity, and actually improves many of the images. The lack of perfection seems to make them better.

    Have fun. Think of street photography like jazz and go a little off-kilter. Improvise and experiment. Just figure out how to find and capture, interesting and intimate moments.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post An Introduction to Street Photography for New Photographers by James Maher appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 8 Tips for Better Pet Photography

    Pets have always been a big part of my life, and are important members of many of the families I photograph. I encourage my clients to include pets in their photo sessions wherever possible. Animals bring a whole new dynamic to a family photo shoot, providing a focus for the children, and a great icebreaker for all parties.

    My interest in pet photography widened when a colleague invited me to join a group called Photographers for Animal Rescue. It is a group of professional photographers who, outside of their paid work, provide pro bono photographs to animal shelters. The theory behind it is that a good photograph greatly improves an animal’s chance of being re-homed, but few shelters have the budget for professional photography.

    Image A

    During my time with this group, I have been lucky enough to photograph dogs, cats, rabbits, and even pet rats. All of these animals have different characteristics and behaviour, and each needs to be approached differently by the photographer.

    Tip #1: A word on safety

    All pets, no matter how docile, have the capacity to bite or scratch. This is especially true of rescue pets, who may have experienced abuse by humans in the past, and can be mistrusting and unpredictable.

    When photographing an animal for the first time, spend time getting to know each other. Allow the animal to sniff you, your clothing, and the camera. Offer treats, and gentle petting if the animal will allow you. Sudden movements or loud noises may startle a timid animal and cause it to retreat or attack.

    Image ETip #2: Dogs

    Humankind’s best friend is the most cooperative of all pets. Generally, dogs respond to verbal commands and treats, and can be physically positioned to take advantage of lighting and optimal shooting angles.

    There is an entire article here on dPS devoted to photographing running dogs, so here I will share some tips for capturing other endearing expressions and moments.

    Tip #3: My best friend

    Dogs are very much part of the human families to which they belong. The most treasured photographs are often the ones in which dogs are interacting with family members. Consider when those moments of connection might occur, so that you can be ready to capture them. It may be in the moments when your child arrives home from school to a joyful canine greeting, or when your mother sits in her favourite chair with her dog on her lap.

    Image B

    As with human portraits, setting and lighting help to convey mood and emotion. The photo above, shot with an 85mm lens, illustrates the bond between my youngest daughter and a family dog. Light reflected off the pavement below them, and shallow depth-of-field achieved with an aperture of f/1.8, creates a soft dreamy image that evokes quiet trust and friendship.

    This photo of a boy and his dog was part of a family photo shoot for a client, who lives by the beach. I wanted to capture the beach environment, but the afternoon sun was too harsh to shoot. I found shade behind a beach bathing-box, and positioned my subjects to use light reflected off the surrounding sand. Boy and dog are on different focal planes, so I selected an aperture of f/5.0, which allowed me to keep both in focus while softening the background.

    Image C

    Tip #4: The doggy smile

    Dogs often smile during, or after, vigorous exercise. If you don’t want to photograph the dog in motion, you can throw a ball, or run around with him for a few minutes, before coaxing him into position. The image below shows our dog smiling as he cools off in the shade, following a manic ball-throwing session. The shade provides even lighting on the dog, and f/2.2 turns the leafy background into lovely bokeh.

    Image D

    Tip #5: The tilted head

    Have the dog sitting on the ground, so that you are shooting at a slight downward angle. Make whining sounds or cat noises – any sound that will pique the dog’s curiosity. Most dogs will cock their head to one side and look at you.

    Image E head tilt

    Tip #6: Cats

    Cats, with their striking eyes and long whiskers, make rewarding photographic subjects. Unlike dogs, they won’t sit where they’re told, and will only favour you with eye contact when it suits them. Photographing cats requires patience and stealth!

    Cats are natural predators, and even adults usually respond to a pom-pom, or toy dangled from a thread. Play peek-a-boo with the toy around corners, or furniture, to coax the cat into the position you want. If possible, confine the cat to a room where you can close the door.

    Use your fingernails to make scratching sounds on carpet, walls, or even your camera body, and the cat will look in the direction of the sound.

    The photos of the kittens below were shot in a small room, with one window. The cats were on a multi-level climbing post, which I pulled close to the window. I stood between the window and the climbing post, and coaxed the cats to look towards the window so that I could get catch-lights in their eyes. These images were shot using ISO 2000, at f/4.0 with a 35mm lens – my go-to lens when working in tight spaces.

    Image G

    Image I

    Image F

    Image H

    Backlighting can also be effective in highlighting fur, which creates a halo effect and frames the cat’s face.

    Image J

    Tip #7: Rabbits

    There are few things cuter than a rabbit washing its face. Rabbits love to be clean, and if you wait long enough, most will wash themselves without prompting. You can speed up this process by holding and petting the rabbit. When you put it down, it will usually be in a hurry to wash away the people smells you have left behind, so get down low and have your camera ready.

    The photos below show Latte and Zeus, two rescue rabbits, photographed first in their default sitting position, and then washing their faces. Both are shot at f/4.0 using a 35mm lens.

    Image K Image M
    Image L Image N

    Often when placed in a new environment (e.g. taken from inside the house, to an outside enclosure) rabbits will stand on their hind legs and check out their new surroundings. Be ready to start shooting as soon as you place the rabbit in the new area. In the photo below, Latte looks like he is begging to be taken home.

    Image O

    Tip #8: Small critters: mice, rats and hamsters

    Even some of the most dedicated animal-lovers are squeamish about rodents. I love them! Most appealing are their long whiskers, and the way they hold food in their paws while they’re eating.

    Small creatures move fast. The easiest way photograph these animals is to have someone hold them. Not only does a human hand keep the animal in place, it also conveys scale. Use a macro lens if you have one.

    The photographs below show off the rat’s beautiful long whiskers. They also show how small and vulnerable they are, and that they are comfortable being handled.

    Image P

    Like the kitten photos, these photos of pet rats were shot using only window light. It was a dull day and the light was poor, so we brought the rats as close as possible to the window, and used a very high ISO of 8000 to 10,000. Since the images were only going to be used online, the graininess (noise) was not a problem in this instance.

    Image Q

    Give the animal a treat, and she will sit still as she holds it in her paws to nibble.

    Image R

    I hope these tips have given you some ideas for photographing the pets in your life. Please share any other tips and your pet photos in the comments below.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post 8 Tips for Better Pet Photography by Karen Quist appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 of the Best Prosumer DSLRs for Budding Professional Photographers

    Photography’s popularity is always growing. And photography’s accessibility is also growing as camera technology simultaneously advances and becomes more affordable. So it’s no big leap of faith to figure that more people are looking to photography as a means of generating income. However, even though camera technology is becoming more affordable, DSLRs still aren’t cheap. Professional-level DSLRs typically start off Continue Reading

    The post 5 of the Best Prosumer DSLRs for Budding Professional Photographers appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • 13 Steps for Editing Street Photography in Lightroom from Start to Finish

    Favorite editing tools for street photography

    I admit it, I take too many photos. I know it, and I have too many images to deal with, and unless I am getting paid to finish them and send them out to a client, they may never get processed. Are you in the same boat? Do you too have some images that have just been sitting there in your digital desk drawer?

    With digital photography, and especially because of how cheap memory is (don’t forget to include web hosting sights and the cloud), more and more photos are just there and never used.  The best solution is to be more decisive, and just take fewer photos. But we all get out of hand, and sometimes just come home with more images than we know what to do with.

    image

    Final product after the simple steps followed below—a workflow that you can adjust to your own tastes too!

    So the best thing to do is get to the grind and produce something. But it doesn’t need to be so much of a grindstone as you might think. I love taking photos more than processing and unless I am flying solo, I think I’ve got lots of people onboard with me. As you know, photography is not about broad strokes, and details are important. This set of instructions is specifically designed for street photography. But, are most of your photos from your travels? Well, streets (along with the convenient airplane) is maybe how you got there. Much of what we do as photographers crosses over into different genres of style and art. So have a go at the following tutorial, and you may find that with your own adjustments this is a recipe for more than just the street.

    image

    Final image of two young girls walking in the slums of San Jose Costa Rica, all editing was done following the steps below.

    These instructions begin in the Library module of Lightroom, and then progress into the Develop module. There are countless modifications that can be made upon importing, categorizing them, giving them tags, etc. As the point of this tutorial is to streamline your workflow, the tips for editing will also be streamlined. So let’s get at it!

    Library Module

    Step 1 – Select images

    Select a batch of images that are preferably in similar lighting conditions, and which have a similar theme. For example, choose a set of photos that were all shot outside over the course of a few hours, but not all night. Or a group of photos that were all shot in the rain. Lighting and theme conditions can vary, but greater variations will have potential greater variations in results.

    Step 2 – White Balance

    In the Quick Develop Panel (at the top of the right panel in the Library Module) Select White Balance and choose Auto. Before you turn away, let me assure you that there have been more Ph.D.s awarded, and dissertations given, in creating the algorithms behind this button. If you compound the interest in dollars that has been invested in this Auto algorithm it would sustain many third and fourth quarter GDP figures for entire nations.

    image

    Step 3 – Warm images

    Next, push the single arrow pointing right under the temperature heading indicated by the Make Warmer hint that appears if you hover over it. The single arrow will increase your warmth tone by +5. If you want plus +10 push it twice, using the double arrow will increase it in increments of +15.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 002

    Step 4 – Auto Tone

    I know it is scary, and it does make me cringe sometimes too, but anything can be shifted, tweaked, and tuned later (and should be) to your liking. This will Auto Tone your exposure, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks to each photo individually, so it is not the same as batch editing which will be covered later.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 003

    Step 5 – Decrease exposure

    Select the single arrow to the left, decreasing the exposure by a 1/3 of a stop. It is minor, but keeps your darker tones (especially things like black asphalt) a little darker. Note: this is assuming you have a correct exposure to begin with – if it’s a bit out you can adjust later on a per image basis as needed.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 004

    Step 6 – Decrease Highlights

    For the Highlights, use the double arrow to the left, decreasing the highlights, and select it once. Be patient, as depending on how many pictures you select and your computer speed, it may take more than a few seconds. This can be monitored by looking in the top left of the screen above the Navigator window (progress bar).

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 005

    Step 7 – Shadows

    For the shadows, use the double arrow on the right, decreasing the shadows, and click it once.

    Step 8 – Whites and Blacks

    Increase the white clipping by +5, by clicking the single right arrow once. Decrease the black clipping by -5 by clicking the single left arrow once.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 007

    Step 9 – Clarity

    Increase the clarity by +20, by pressing the double arrow to the right once (for more information about clarity please look near the end of the article which describes it in more detail).

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 009

    Step 10 – Vibrance

    The final step in the Library module is to increase the vibrance by pressing the double arrow to the right (for more detailed information about vibrance please see below).

    Develop Module

    Now we will be moving into the Develop module. To this point, all the changes that you’ve made, have been applied to all the photos in the group, which you originally selected. Looking at the image below, you can see that despite the simple clicks made in the Library module, many delicate changes have been made. Again, all of these changes can be fine-tuned to your liking later. There are hundreds of modifications that can be made, but let’s keep those for later.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 011

    Notice the sliders have moved based on the changes you made in the Library Module Quick Develop panel.

    Step 11 – Lens Corrections

    This step requires you to scroll down to the Lens Corrections Panel, and select two checkboxes. The first is Enable Profile Corrections, and the second is Remove Chromatic Aberrations. Both of these will allow Lightroom to make changes to the photo based on the lens used, and the inherent flaws that exist in that lens. A variety of corrections may or may not be included like, barrel distortion, vignetting, and as the second suggests, green and purple colors that result from diffraction in the lens.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 012

    Step 12 – Detail Panel

    Next is to scroll up and go to sharpening, increase it to +50,  then increase your masking to +25. Finally you may or may not need to reduce noise. For this example, because the ISO was 640 the noise reduction was increased to +25. To understand, sharpening and masking in more detail and their relationship to noise reduction please read below.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 013

    Are you still with me? Here is where you will thank some of those computer science majors for creating the AUTO button. This is why they get the big bucks, and it saves us large amounts of time. We don’t need to apply these changes individually.

    Step 13 – Sync settings

    At the bottom of the Develop module there is a rectangular button that says Sync. PUSH IT! Make sure all your images are still selected before you sync (highlighted in the thumbnail strip at the bottom).

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 014 sync

    When the Synchronize Setting window pops up, select Check None. This will ensure that no unwanted changes will be made to your previous adjustments.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 015 sync check none

    Now check the boxes labeled Sharpening, Noise reduction (which will subsequently select both boxes below it), Lens Profile Corrections, Chromatic Aberration, and finally Process Version. Notice these are the same adjustments that you had made in steps 12 and 13.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 016 sync check which apply

    Finally, press the “Synchronize” button.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 017 verify sync

    Looking at the screenshot above, you can see that the all of the selected photos have had the changes made to them.  If I were to go back and make all the individual changes to the potentially tens, hundreds, or even in bizarre cases thousands of photos, it would have taken me time that I don’t have, and neither do you. Looking at the image below you can see that the exposure, shadows, lights, whites and blacks have remained unique to the individual photo.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 018 verify sync basic settings

    Below are simple side by side comparisons. In the last one I actually made a few additional small adjustments, and added a -10 vignette. Other than that, it is ready for export, along with almost all of the other photos that were just individually and batch adjusted. It is a bit of mix and match magic that keeps your photos natural, and true to the street.

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 019 compare

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 021 compare

    2015.09.25 Street Editing Tips Lightroom 020 compare

    Clarity

    Clarity increases the contrast where two different tonal values meet. It is like contrast but on a micro scale, makes the image seem to be sharper. The lights will get lighter and the darks darker, but only where the different tone values meet, not broadly across the whole tonal range of the image.

    Vibrance

    Vibrance increases the tone of colors that are not already saturated. It is like a balancing scale for color. Saturation on the other hand, increases the intensity of all spectrums of light. Thus, vibrancy helps to bring out subtleties in the colors. For street photography, it brings out richness, without creating an over-saturated look. Sometimes I pull the vibrance up, and push the saturation down, to maintain an urban feel but doing so without making it look over-worked.

    Sharpness

    Just as I said, clarity is like contrast on the micro scale, sharpness is like clarity on a micro scale. Thus, it is like micro-micro scale. So we are still dealing with tonal values, but in even more detail. So be careful how much you increase your sharpness. Never try to rescue camera shake or blur in the photo using sharpness. “The devil is in the detail,” and this is no truer than in the sharpness slider. Because what you gain in sharpness you also increase the amount of noise (not desirable). If you have a high ISO, sharpness is more of an enemy than a friend.

    EXTRA

    Final image all adjustments applied

    Masking

    Textures will become more enhanced, but smooth surfaces will not be affected, resulting in less excess noise being introduced. This will help the street photography mood, without giving it an overly grainy feeling, or your shadows having too much noise. So how much of this movement left and right on the Masking slider is helping or hurting all your hard work? Thanks to those “AUTO guys” the Alt key on windows (Opt on Mac) will give you a grayscale impression of exactly where, and how the sharpening is impacting your photo. White indicates the area on the photo where sharpening is being applied, and black shows where it is not. You will notice that the contrasts and textures deserve most of the sharpening, alleviating your smooth tones and surfaces from the ill effects of sharpness.

    Summary

    So hopefully that will give you some things to try out with your images to process your street photography faster and consistently. Do you have any other tricks and tips you use? Please share in the comments below.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post 13 Steps for Editing Street Photography in Lightroom from Start to Finish by Branson Quenzer appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tips for Using Legacy Lenses and Shooting in Full Manual

    Shooting Manually

    Full manual. Two words. Ten letters. Yet those words can be some of the most discouraging for new photographers to ingest. There has long been a perceived over complication concerning shooting in Manual Mode. Personally, I always leave my camera set to manual. Granted, I dont shoot many fast-paced sporting events that require speedy autofocus, or many situations where there is constantly fluctuating light. Still, the idea of controlling the aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and focus, all independently of your camera’s computer, unsettles even experienced photographers at times. Happily though, not only is there a swelling community of photographerss who are embracing the somewhat challenging, but highly organic and rewarding, benefits of shooting manually…but also upping the ante by adapting completely analog legacy lenses for use with their cameras.

    image

    In this article, you will learn how to enjoy what might be considered a devolved methodology of making photographs using legacy lenses, and shooting in full manual mode. Full manual lenses, are generally built to exacting quality standards, but are relatively low-priced, which makes them great for beginners, and those shooting on a budget. Furthermore, adapters are available for virtually all mirrorless and digital SLR camera systems, so that you can start making great photographs using these low-tech lenses. Let’s jump right in.

    What are Legacy Lenses?

    Lenses that were geared for use with older film camera (35mm or medium/large format) systems are called legacy lenses. Glass of this type are non-motor driven, and operate autonomously of your camera. This means that the focus and aperture selection are all accomplished inside of the lens, which is controlled by you. There is no electronic communication between the lens and the camera. You must use the lens’s aperture, and focusing ring, to produce the desired depth of field and focus. Legacy lenses are generally made of metal, making them relatively heavy, but heartily constructed.

    Which lenses are fully manual?

    Full manual lenses does certainly not include all legacy lenses. Many manufacturers still make completely manual lenses, engineered specifically for the digital camera market. A lens is designated as being fully manual when there is no control being provided by the camera. However, there are quite a few fully manual lenses which have incorporated focus indicator chips into their design. While remaining fully manual, these types of lenses will communicate with your camera when focus has been achieved.

    image

    Adapting lenses to your camera

    In a previous article on dPS we discussed how easy it really is to use legacy lenses (and other non-native glass) with your digital camera. The same holds true. All that is needed to enable the use of fully manual legacy lenses to be used with your modern digital camera body is a simple adapter.

    image

    These adapters vary in capability from simple adapter rings, to advanced electronic contraptions, with focus indicator chips of their own. Keep in mind though, there are a few things to consider before adapting any non-native lens to your camera. More on that shortly.

    Using your camera in full manual mode with manual lenses

    image

    You’ve found an elegant legacy lens and located the appropriate adapter for your particular camera system. You’re excited and ready begin shooting completely manually, so now what? Well, take a breath and exhale a well deserved sigh of relief, because all of that was the hard part. Now all that’s left are a few quick steps. The first of those steps is to switch your camera into Manual Mode. This is almost always done by moving your selector wheel to M for manual mode. This will give you, the courageous photographer, complete control over all aspects of the shot. If you are using a completely manual lens, or a legacy lens, everything except the shutter speed will now be manipulated using the lens. The aperture will be controlled using the aperture selector ring, and so too will be the focusing.

    This is a breakdown of the essential features found on an adapted, full manual legacy lens (in this case a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8).

    image

    Here are a few tips for using your camera in full manual mode, in conjunction with a fully manual or legacy lens:

    Focus Peaking Function

    Some cameras now incorporate a technology called focus peaking which visually outlines the edges of the most in-focus area of a scene,, before the shutter is ever released. The technology detects the area of the most contrast between pixels, thus determining what region is most in focus. Though not perfect, this a great option to aid with manual focusing.

    Focus Magnifier

    Not all camera bodies come equipped with the focus peaking feature, but most modern digital cameras are capable of focus magnification. This lets you digitally magnify the scene, and inspect areas for proper focus. I use focus magnification in all of my landscape work. It is a great way to achieve pin point focus on the areas where precision is a necessity. (Note: this is usually available in LiveView mode).

    Shoot RAW

    Yes, the old shoot RAW lecture again. Even though focus correction can’t be achieved, even in RAW format files, it will however give you much more room to work on contrast and clarity. This will sometimes help to salvage an image that may otherwise be culled.

    Things to consider before using legacy lenses

    Along with all the benefits of shooting manually with legacy and full manual lenses, there are also some things to remember before, and during shooting times.

    Complete Autonomy of the Camera

    There is of course no electronic communication between the lens and the camera, unless you have chosen an adapter or lens equipped with focus indicator technology. So there will be no way to use your shutter priority or aperture priority modes.

    Physical Considerations

    Some lenses will obstruct the mirror function of digital SLRs. This is one of those things that carries a little bit of buyer beware baggage. Make absolutely sure that the lens you are adapting to your camera does not physically occlude the operation of the mirror, this will damage your camera, possibly beyond repair. This becomes less of an issue with mirrorless camera systems.

    Crop Factor

    The crop factor of any lens is dependant on the size of the image sensor (or film) being used. Always be mindful of the interactions between your lens, and whatever size sensor you are using, be it full frame of APS-C (cropped). Most legacy lenses were intended for use with 35mm film. This will play a major role in your practical focal length, when shopping for lenses of the prime variety.

    image

    Fully manual and legacy lenses have a firm grasp on today’s digital world. Though viewed as antiquated by some, the essential elements of this type of photography can produce exceptional images. Shooting in Manual Mode gives you ultimate generalship over your work, and allows you to take every aspect of photo making into your own hands. Not only is the use of legacy and manual lenses a cost efficient way to make photographs, but it is also a reflection of a time when the buck stopped with the photographer, not the camera.

    Newer isn’t always better. And even though manual shooting might not be the most effective course in some situations, there is no reason why it should be discounted in today’s modern era. Full manual shooting allows you to use lenses of extremely high quality to fully realize your creative vision, in ways you may not have otherwise been able to accommodate. Take your photography back to the future, and go beyond the realm of the automatic.

    Do you have a favorite manual setup that you use regularly? Share it in the comments below!

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    tablet_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_tab-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78623” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {
    mobile_slots.push( googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv4_mob-all-article-bottom_(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ad-78158” ).addService( googletag.pubads() ) ); } );

    The post Tips for Using Legacy Lenses and Shooting in Full Manual by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School