Category: Photography

  • Rim Light – A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash

    In this article, I will introduce you to creating a rim light using a single flash. While not so common, it is extremely easy to put in place and will allow you to get very interesting and powerful images. To do this kind of photography you just need a flash with the ability to place it off camera. A welcome accessory, the only one you may need, is a light stand or tripod to easily keep the flash in place.

    Rim Light - A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash

    Learning flash doesn’t have to be hard

    If you are just getting started in portraiture, chances are you have been faced with the “flash versus natural light” dilemma, and you probably went with natural light. I find many amateur and beginning photographers are intimidated by lighting equipment because they think that in order to get something good, they have to use complicated setups where many pieces of equipment are required.

    In my opinion, the problem with learning to use flash is that the easiest possible setup, i.e., a single flash used off-camera, is often presented only as a way to create a basic image that needs to be improved by adding more gear and by creating more complicated lighting setups. As if nobody would seriously use just one light. So, I can see why flash photography is intimidating.

    If you are a beginner, you probably want to know how to use your single, entry level, flash and how to create images that will stand out from the gazillion of portraits out there.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-0” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-4” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Keep it simple

    My solution was to forget about the magazine and fashion style portraits. I wanted to take advantage of the limitations of my single light setup to create strong and moody portraits by combining the hard light from the bare flash with a low-key style. Note; this style will better suit male models.

    Rim lighting 01

    Self-portrait using a single flash on my right, without any light modifiers.

    By changing the output power and the zoom setting of the flash, you can get a more gentle and intimate portrait, like the one below.

    Rim lighting 02

    A single light setup can produce less punchy and contrasty images by changing the flash output power and the zoom settings.

    Creating a rim light

    This is all nice and good, but you can get a very different look by using a rim light. This kind of light highlights only the contours of the subject, and I love it.

    Rim lighting 03

    Rim light and low-key style; a powerful combination.

    The setup is extremely simple. Just hide the flash right behind the model or the object, and point it back directly at the subject.

    In practice, we could see the rim light as the opposite of a silhouette, where the subject is seen as a black shape against a brighter, often white, background. In the studio, the light setup for a silhouette is, in fact, the same of as that used to create a rim light, except that the flash is pointing at the background instead of at the subject.

    Rim lighting 04

    Self-portrait in silhouette.

    Ideally, you want to have only the rim light in the scene and not record any ambient light. But this does not mean you have to work in a dark room. The only thing you need to be careful about with rim light setup is to ensure that the flash output power is such that the light does not spill over and around the subject edges. You want to have only the light running along the subject contour.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-1” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-5” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Rim Light - A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash

    It is all about that thin light running along the subject’s edges.

    Refine it a little

    If possible, the editing is even easier. Make sure that the blacks in your image are deep and the highlights are bright. Do this and you have pretty much done with the editing.

    What I like about this technique is that the resulting photo has a mysterious look that captures the viewer’s imagination. I guess it has all to do with the “see/not see”.

    If you like props, you can also use them with a rim light to better convey a message, like in the photo below.

    Rim Light - A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash

    Addiction. Here I have allowed the light to spill a bit more, so as to light my hands and the mobile screen.

    We all live, most of the time, with our noses inside a smartphone screen, somewhat unaware of the reality around us. That and a feeling of addiction is the message I tried to attach to the photo.

    Adding emotion

    Emotions can also be easily conveyed in an interesting way by using rim light. We had a new baby girl a few months ago, and a few weeks before the due date, I experimented with a rim light in the living room when my pregnant partner passed by. I decided to take the usual very cliché photo of the father kissing the belly of the mother. While kissing her baby bump, I had the vision of the sun rising from behind the Earth, seen from space and thought, “Use a rim light!”. This is the result:

    Rim Light - A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash

    Rim light can change a cliché image into a very moody and interesting one.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-2” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-6” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    I think this simple light setup transformed the same old same old photographic cliché into a much more powerful and interesting image.

    Special effects

    Finally, because the scene is backlit, an easy way to add interest is to include in the shot smoke or aerosols. Both will capture and scatter the light around, creating some interesting effects.

    Rim Light - A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single FlashSince I do not smoke, I sprayed water around to make this self-portrait shot more interesting.

    Finally, try to turn the model towards the light and allow the flash to light them a bit more for some interesting variations.

    Rim Light - A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single FlashTurning the model to face the light can be an interesting variation on the theme.

    To conclude, I hope I have given you some ideas to start playing with a single off-camera flash in a simple and non-intimidating way using a rim light. The bonus is creating some particular and interesting photos in the process.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-3” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-7” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The post Rim Light – A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash by Andrea Minoia appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 21 Images That Sing – Photos of all Things Musical

    Music fills the soul – it also makes for a great subject for photographers.

    Singers, concerts, musicians, bands, instruments, and more. See if you can hear the music in thees images!

    By John Finn

    By Ronald Rugenbrink

    By Brian Tomlinson

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-0” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-4” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    By Mike Morbeck

    By Bill Couch

    By David

    By dion gillard

    By Eleonora Albasi

    By Nate

    By Mats Edenius

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-1” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-5” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    By Micha? Koralewski

    By Sam Cox

    By Arnold Manillier

    By Marco Evangelisti Crespo

    By Flavio~

    By Brandon Giesbrecht

    By Susanne Nilsson

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-2” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-6” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    By Machrouh Med Sami

    By Grodenaue

    By Alex de Haas

    By ericzim

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-3” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-7” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The post 21 Images That Sing – Photos of all Things Musical by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Music

    Sing, play that funky music, listen and look at these 21 images of all things music.

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Music

    Think of all the things you can photograph related to music:

    • An individual instrument
    • Musician with this instrument
    • Full band
    • A concert or show in a bar
    • An orchestra or quartette
    • A singer
    • A sheet of music
    • Speakers or a stereo

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-0” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-4” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    By Freaktography

    By Gia Willow Alexa Annermarken

    So get out and find something musical to photograph this week for the dPS challenge. Here are some tips to help you get started.

    • 5 Tips for Portraits of Musicians That Will Help You Hit All the Right Notes
    • 10 Must-Have Camera Settings for Concert Photography
    • Concert Photography: Choosing the Best Camera Settings
    • How to Shoot a Sequence of Photos That Capture a Story

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-1” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-5” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    By Geoffrey Froment

    By Ignacio Bernal

    By K ~ The Eternal Spirit

    By kennysarmy

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-2” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-6” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-3” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-7” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Music by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Back in 2013, which is about two thousand years as far as digital photography is concerned, the folks at Adobe introduced a brand new tool into the kit of Lightroom 5. That tool is the Radial Filter and it has become not only one of my favorite tools in Lightroom but is one of the most versatile and powerful mechanisms we have for selectively applying edits to our photographs.

    The Radial Filter tool has evolved and changed to where we find it becoming more and more useful in the latest version of Lightroom CC. In this tutorial, I will show you just how strong the Radial Filter has become. Most importantly, you will learn some of the great things it can do for you and your work.

    What is the Radial Filter?

    The term “radial” implies that the tool is circular of course but it goes quite a bit further than that. The Radial Filter is best considered as a virtually infinitely manipulable ellipse; meaning that the user can change the size and shape of the filter up to (and even beyond) the view window of the Develop Module.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Access the Radial Filter by clicking it on the toolbar in the Develop Module (is the second from the right, next to the Adjustment Brush). You can also open it by using the keyboard shortcut (shown above) Shift+M or by going to Tools > Radial Filter from the menu at the top of Lightroom.

    The edits that can be applied using the Radial Filter with the current version of Lightroom CC include virtually all the develop options from the Basic Panel plus the recent addition of the “dehaze” feature from the Effects Panel. So essentially the Radial Filter allows you to apply edits to specific areas of the frame where you need them. You can set the filter so that the edits are applied to either the inside or outside of the filter margins (more on inversion later.) You can even use multiple Radial Filters together in order to achieve some impressive effects.

    Applying and Manipulating the Radial Filter

    Of course, the shape and position of the Radial Filter are the largest parts of the usage pie. To apply the filter, drag the cursor while holding down the left mouse button. You will see the filter expanding as you drag. There will be a placement indicator in the form of an opaque circular dot. This dot represents the location of each Radial Filter within your image. You’ll notice that there are also four square shapes around the perimeter of the ellipse. These are points where you can change the shape of the filter as you please.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Grab any of these points to expand the Radial Filter in that direction.

    The entire filter can also be rotated by placing your cursor around the edge until it turns into a curved double-headed arrow (shown below).

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    You can rotate the Radial Filter around the center point when you see this symbol.

    Left click to change the position of the filter.

    Seeing Red – the Mask Overlay

    One of the great things Adobe has included for you is a way to see where your edits are being applied by its filters and brushes. When using the Radial Filter, hover your cursor over the center dot indicator for about a second and you will see a wonderful bit of magic. Wherever the radial filter has applied its edits will now be highlighted in red.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-0” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-4” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Well, it’s not exactly magic, but it sure is close.

    Note: If you want this mask to show all the time just hit O on your keyboard. You can change its color, or you can rotate through white, black, green and red by pressing Shift+O. 

    Feathering, Duplication, and Inversion

    There are some other tips when it comes to applying the radial filter. The most basic of these is feathering, duplication, and inversion.

    Feathering

    Feathering determines how hard or soft the border around the radial filter is, and in turn how noticeable the transition will between the edits applied and the rest of the photo.

    Here we have a very abrupt transition….

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Feathering at 0 the transition is harsh and very obvious. There is a definite line where the filter ends, and the unedited images begins.

    Now you can see the softening of the border brought about by maximum feathering (+100). Depending on your needs feathering can make all the difference.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Feathering at +100 the transition is very gradual and less obvious.

    Duplication

    Now, let’s say you find yourself in a situation where there is more than one area which needs a similar adjustment to one that you’ve already applied with a Radial Filter. This happens frequently when working with groups of people or in a scene that has multiple elements such as a landscape.

    Take this image for example; a shot of two people with similar lighting. I want to brighten both of their faces and add a little sharpness.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    I created a Radial Filter using some slight exposure and sharpness increases and applied it to the man’s face. Instead of starting from scratch and creating a separate Radial Filter for the woman, I simply duplicated the Radial Filter. To do this, simply right click on the locator dot in the middle of the filter, then select duplicate (as shown below).

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    What this will do is copy all the settings of your current filter into a brand new Radial Filter which you can then move about and change as you see fit. It saves a lot of time and ensures you have a great starting point for your next edit.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    The duplicated Radial Filter moved into place over the woman’s face.

    I also added a third radial filter to add a little more contrast to the couple.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-1” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-5” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Inversion

    On the other hand, inversion is something very different than duplication because you’re still working with the same filter and the same edits but in a completely different way. You’ll find the Invert Mask checkbox at the bottom of the Radial Filter panel.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Click the Invert Mask checkbox to invert the Radial Filter.

    When left unchecked, all your edits will be applied OUTSIDE the filter. This is great for applying brightening and sharpening to faces and small areas of a frame as well as creating sunspots. Conversely, when the invert mask box is checked all your edits will be applied INSIDE the filter. This is great for creating custom vignettes and bringing down bright skies or overexposed areas within the image.

    Integration of the Brush Tool

    A wonderful advancement that is now included with the Radial Filter is the ability to adjust the filter’s edits using the brush tool. While the brush tool has been a standby in Lightroom for some years it has only recently been included as an advanced edit option for the Radial Filter tool. What the brush tool allows you to do with the Radial Filter is to tailor its effects more than ever before. You are now able to use the brush to apply the settings of the Radial Filter free-handed to extend outside or inside of the filter.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Here I have painted in the same edit selections with the brush tool that I used in the radial filter.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    You can still hover to better see your edits while in brush mode (or click O on your keyboard to show/hide the Mask Overlay).

    Furthermore, the brush has all the functions of the dedicated Adjustment Brush tool which includes the ability to erase edits.  If you’re like me and find yourself saying, “Oops, I went too far with the brush!” all you need to do is select erase and paint over it again.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Erase switches the brush into erase mode. Now you can erase the edits you don’t want.

    Pretty great!

    A Few Tricks

    Sunspots

    I mentioned sunspots a little earlier. They are a great way to add depth and interest to an image. While creating a sunspot where no sun exists isn’t always a good idea, the Radial Filter tool really helps to enhance the brightness (or darken) and warmth of a preexisting sunrise or sunset.

    Here are two examples of using the Radial Filter to increase the impact of sunspots: First without the Radial Filters…

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    Original before adding the Radial Filter.

    And now with two radial filters applied for brightness and warmth.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    One more.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-2” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-6” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Three radial filters were used here to brighten the branches and add warmth to the sun in the background.

    Tame the Moon

    Another nifty way to use the Radial Filter tool is for toning down an overly bright or dull moon. Here we have a before and after split-view of the moon after some sharpening and clarity was applied with a single Radial Filter.

    Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom

    I also brought ought the shadows by darkening the blacks and then cooled the image a bit.

    Simulating Depth of Field

    It doesn’t stop there. The radial filter can also be used to simulate extremely shallow depth of field. This works great if you want to give an image a very old-time tintype feel. This is the original image:

    Here I have used multiple Radial Filters to blur out the background, along with some other edits to give the image an antique feel.

    Some Final Thoughts

    The Radial Filter tool has come a long way since its introduction. Now you have the power to use the virtually all of the basic edit tools in Lightroom very selectively. The integration of the brush option takes the possibilities even further by adding versatility like never before. With a little creativity, the Radial Filter can do so much more than simply adding vignettes to your images. After some practice, it will likely become your workflow’s best friend.

    How do you use this tool with your images? Please share your thoughts and images below.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-3” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-7” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The post Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 15 Photography Ideas to Boost Your Creativity

    Doing photography exercises brings forth new opportunities to improve your skills, hone in on your craft and who knows, even guide you in the direction of finding a new genre that you love more than anything in the world! Here are 15 creative ideas to take you out of your comfort zone, and guide you in your quest to boost your creativity.

    Get out there and put your own spin to each of these prompts. Bonus points if you have never tried any of these before. When you push yourself to get comfortable being uncomfortable, to step outside your comfort zone, to try new things, and to give yourself the permission to fail – you also give yourself the chance to figure out who you want to be when you grow up!

    #1 – Add emotion to your images

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    I absolutely adore this image. There’s nothing like laughing with unabashed happiness on your wedding day!

    Choose to evoke emotion in your images – either in the eyes of the beholder or in the eyes of the beheld (a.k.a your subjects). When you want emotion from your subjects, ask for it. There is nothing more uncomfortable for your clients than a photographer who is silent behind the camera while continuously clicking the shutter.

    Most clients are not professional models and generally, they are quite camera shy and self-conscious. It is our responsibility as the photographer to direct, educate, and interact with our clients to make them comfortable in front of our lens.

    If you are shooting landscapes or still lifes, aim to create emotion in your images that move your audience to feel something. Be it a serious case of wanderlust viewing a travel photo from an exotic locale, or insane hunger when looking at your food images!

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    Sometimes staged photos take a turn of their own and present opportunities for different perspectives!

    #2 – Try some motion blur

    There are many different ways to achieve motion blur. I associate motion blur with the effect of capturing movement in a frame. You can either capture movement in your subject or by moving yourself or the camera (e.g. panning). For me, the easiest way to achieve motion blur is to slow the shutter speed and show some movement of the subject. Motion blur adds an interesting artistic element in your images if done right. One tip, use a tripod for optimal effect.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    When fog was our constant companion on a beach camping trip in the pacific northwest, I chose to use it to my advantage to create an eerie effect with motion blur – in the waves and the people walking along the beach!

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    Panning image courtesy of dPS Editor, Darlene.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-0” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-4” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    #3 – Go macro

    Traditionally macro photography has been associated with floral and fauna. But resist the urge to get out into the garden to find the smallest ant to photograph. Instead, think of macro as a great way to isolate details in an image.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    As a wedding photographer, I love using my macro lens to capture unique ring shots for my couples. And of course, nothing like highlighting the snow (I live in Chicago!).

    #4 – Find reflections

    As the name suggests, try and find mirror images or reflections, either with mirrors or with water, of your subject and shoot creatively.

    Reflections of people in water image - 15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    It really helps if your subjects are great sports and willing to get into the water for a shot like this!!

    #5 – Shoot out of focus

    Whether it’s an unlucky accident or intentional, I love out of focus images. Remember these creative exercises are simply an attempt to create something you are proud of. There are no right or wrongs, they are all just ways to stimulate your creative juices.

    #6 – Wabi-sabi – embracing imperfection

    As per Wikipedia, wabi-sabi represents Japanese aesthetics and a Japanese world view centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete”.

    There is something innately beautiful in imperfections. That feeling of being alive and being human and living life to the fullest, versus living in the proverbial glass house where nothing is out of order. The best way to think of wabi-sabi is to look for imperfections in your everyday.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    I love everything old and vintage. They always tell me stories of a different, more interesting time and place!

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    #7 – Double exposures

    Ding a double exposure is a carry-over from the old film days and it is a super creative way to take your images from boring to wow! In its simplest form, it is a way to superimpose two images onto a single frame. The good news is that you don’t need a film camera to create double exposures. Some of

    Some newer DSLRs have a multiple exposure setting as a tool for creative photography. It takes a little bit of reading but once you get the hang of it, I promise, you will be hooked. We also have a great article in the DPS archives that talks about the techniques of multiple exposures How to do Multiple Exposures In-Camera.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-1” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-5” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    #8 Diptych

    A diptych is a concept of placing two images side by side so that they add context to each other and tell a complete story. When choosing images to form a diptych, pay close attention to light, tones, and exposures. Typically I compose my diptychs to include a big picture image and a detail shot of an element of that image.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    My focus with dyptics is to dig deeper into my stories…focus on the details along with the big picture.

    #9 – Triptych

    Similar to diptych, a triptych is a concept of placing three images side by side so that they collectively tell a story.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    Especially with tryptics, pay special attention to the order and orientation of the images. At times this might limit the placement of the images in a certain order.

    #10 – Shooting through objects

    I love shooting through objects, it adds an element of interest and depth in the foreground. You can really take this up a notch by using every day elements like leaves, branches, fabric pieces and ever glass to create some cool artistic effects in your images.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    #11 – Different perspective

    The next time you find yourself shooting the same subject the same way, take a step back and rethink your strategy. Are you a 100% vertical shooter like me? Then force yourself to take a horizontal frame. Are you always looking at details? Then use a wide-angle lens and force yourself to take in the big picture. Do you always shoot at a narrow aperture so as to get everything in focus? Then dial down your aperture and shoot at the widest possible setting (based on your lens) to focus in on one detail of the whole image.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    Personally, I tend to shoot closeup and focus on the details a lot more than I do the big picture. So I have been forcing myself to do just that…and I love when I get diversity of 50-50 in my vertical and horizontal orientation shots! Bonus point to you if you can spot the subject here!!

    #12 – Burst of color

    It’s a beautiful, colorful world out there. Get out and photograph it. Don’t be afraid of the bold bright colors, but definitely be aware of which colors work and which ones don’t quite translate well in imagery. Train your mind to look for certain colors and patterns and before you know it, you will have a collection of colorful images that make you happy.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    I just loved the pop of color from my husband’s red jacket as he walked along the lakeshore with the Olympic mountains in the background.

    #13 – Monochromatic

    This is the exact opposite of #12 where your challenge is to look for and shoot a black and white image. You can either convert the image to B&W in post-processing or change the setting on your camera (depending on the make and model) to shoot monochromatic in-camera.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-2” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-6” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The key here is to look for patterns and compositions that work well in black and white. A point to note is that processing is very subjective, as is black and white imagery. There are no right or wrong images, but here are a few articles to help you take great monochrome images.

    • How to Create Good Black and White Portraits
    • 6 Tips to Help You Make Better Black and White Landscape Photos
    • Avoid These 5 Common Mistakes in Black and White Photography
    • A Guide to Black and White Conversion in Photoshop
    • A Guide to Black and White Conversion in Lightroom
    • Improve Your Middle of the Day Photos By Doing Black and White

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    #14 – Pattern play

    Take the time to look around and see if you are able to find any natural patterns around you. These can be either man-made or natural. Facades of buildings, windows, parking lots, and landscapes all provide many opportunities to capture repeating patterns. Capture them in an interesting way to highlight those patterns.

    15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    #15 – Shadow play

    Shadow play is most prevalent in situations when the sun is high in the sky creating harsh shadows on the ground, on buildings and directly unto the subject. But magic with light also happens indoors. Learn to embrace this high contrast between shadow and sun and try to capture some creative angles.

    Dramatic light Images Shadow play - 15 Photography Exercises to Boost Your Creativity

    Conclusion

    I hope these exercises have proven to you that there isn’t any lack of creativity prompts in and around you. You just have to look for them anytime you feel stuck or find yourself creating the same or similar images again and again. Keep these prompts in the back of your mind, use them, combine them, mix them up – the possibilities are endless!

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-3” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-7” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The post 15 Photography Ideas to Boost Your Creativity by Karthika Gupta appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    Learning to evaluate your own work and getting good honest feedback is critical to improving as a photographer. Others will see things you don’t see. It will give you tips to help you improve. And it is peculiar to your work (not just general tips for everyone).

    3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    The problem is that getting honest feedback on your work has always been difficult. Your choices boil down to:

    • Bothering friends and family in the hopes that they would risk hurting your feelings to give you honest feedback.
    • Hoping someone will chime in with actual constructive criticism on a picture you post online.
    • Paying a lot of money to attend a photography conference and have your work reviewed by an expert.

    None of these is ideal. The first two don’t work, and the third is a rather large, expensive (not to mention scary) undertaking.

    So what do you do? Fortunately, the world is changing in this area. There are additional tools to help you get feedback and also to help you objectively judge your own work as well. In this article, you’ll be introduced to a few of my favorites.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-0” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-4” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    #1 – 500 px

    You may already be familiar with 500px. You upload your pictures to the site and it provides you with a score for your photograph based on the number of likes and comments it receives from others. An obvious way to get feedback is through the score. Higher scores generally mean better pictures and you can judge your picture by the score it receives.

    3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    500px.com

    That said, the scoring of 500px can be somewhat unreliable. Sometimes you will upload pictures that you know are better than the score they get (but be careful about that, as sometimes we delude ourselves into thinking our photos are better than they are). Other times you will see pictures with really high scores that aren’t as good as their scores warrant. There are a lot of factors that might determine the number of people that are liking your photo at any particular time.

    The score isn’t the only way that 500px helps you evaluate your own work, though. When you upload your picture to the site, you will see it in pools of pictures that 500px creates. All new pictures go into the Fresh pool of pictures, then if your photo reaches a score of 70 it goes into an Upcoming pool, and pictures that score over 80 are deemed Popular. When you look at your photo within these pools, you will see it surrounded by its peers.  You are essentially forced to compare your photo to the surrounding ones. Sometimes you will like what you see, sometimes you won’t.

    3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    The Popular pool of photos on 500px.

    Then, when you are ready for a little dose of humility, you can compare your photo to the most popular photos on the front page. These photos are almost always incredible shots. Be warned, this will bruise your ego. Once you get past that, you can look at what these photographers are doing to get those great shots. That will help show you things you could be doing.

    #2 – Photographers via phone or Skype

    Having your photos reviewed by an expert has always been an option, but it has historically been expensive. Usually, it involves going to a photography conference, where you are given the opportunity to sit face-to-face with someone reviewing your work. These opportunities are invaluable but are also expensive and time-consuming. The conferences usually aren’t cheap and there may be significant travel expenses involved as well.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-1” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-5” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    Technology is starting to help change this situation, though. Now, if you poke around online, you can find photographers that will review your work virtually for a fraction of the cost. The occasions I have done this have cost me $ 50 or less.

    What you do is upload some pictures to the photographer or service, and they review them. I’ve done it where I had a call with the reviewer, and where the reviewer sent me an audio/video file of them reviewing my work. Obviously, you only have interaction with them the first way, but the reality is that you are mostly doing this for their honest feedback your pictures, and not to ask questions or have them explain things. In any case, you get feedback on your work from an industry expert.

    3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    An example of a photo review service.

    Some photographers offer this as a service on their websites. Many others don’t, but I suspect they would welcome the opportunity to make a little extra cash if approached. If you have a favorite photographer, you might see if they are interested in reviewing your work for a fee. It will get you great feedback without the cost of traveling to a conference.

    #3 – Pixoto

    Another way I have seen to get good feedback on your work is a website called Pixoto.

    3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    When you post a photo to Pixoto, it goes through a series of Image Duels, which are head-to-head competitions between your photo and another image. You will be asked to vote on Image Duels of photos submitted by others, and they will vote on yours. It is nameless and faceless. As a result of the wins and losses (and even the best photos have plenty of losses), Pixoto generates a score for your photo. It also tells you what percentage of photos yours placed above.

    3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work

    Example of an Image Duel on Pixoto.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-2” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-6” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    You won’t always agree with the results Pixoto gives you. Sometimes that will be because the Pixoto score is wrong, but more often it will be because you failed to properly evaluate your own work (which is very hard). In any case, this is another tool in your arsenal, and it is free.

    Evaluating your own work

    None of these tools is perfect, what’s more, they will sometimes conflict. You might have a photo that gets a really high score on 500px but does dismally on Pixoto. Or you might have a photo that gets lots of social media attention and is loved by a reviewer but goes nowhere on 500px or Pixoto. None of this replaces judgment and there is no accounting for taste. But they can give you good markers to help you critically evaluate your own work.

    These tools will occasionally change your mind, and it can work in both directions. There will be photos you absolutely love, but you later realize aren’t as good as you thought after you’ve used these tools. At the same time, there will be photos that you didn’t think much of but that you realize might be a little better than you gave them credit for after seeing the reaction of others to them.

    In any event, perhaps the greatest tool these can offer you is helping you learn to better evaluate your own work by yourself. After you have seen others do it, you’ll learn things. You’ll stop repeating mistakes. You’ll learn what is important to others. And you’ll learn to view your photos with a more critical eye.

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-mobile-ad-3” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_mobile_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    googletag.cmd.push(function() {var gpt_slot = googletag.defineSlot( “/1005424/_dPSv5in-post-mobile(300×250)”, [300, 250], “pb-ruleset-desktop-ad-7” ).addService( googletag.pubads() );ruleset_desktop_slots.push( gpt_slot );});

    The post 3 Ways to Get Honest Feedback on Your Work by Jim Hamel appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why

    Did you ever wonder how the photographers of the past did it? All they had were manual cameras and yet somehow they had a method that beats even the latest technology in autofocus! Wonder what it was? Let’s find out first what it was and discuss what most call the best street photography camera settings.

    The best street photography settings

    Now, before getting into this, let’s get something straight. If you are doing something in your street photography and it works for you, then by all means, you’ve found the settings that fit you best and you probably want to stick with them. What I am presenting here are the tried and true ways that not only past photographers used, but most street photographers prefer today. But it’s not magic by any means. With that being said, let’s start with focusing on street photography.

    What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why
    What’s faster than autofocus?

    I know you are probably wondering how something can be faster than the latest autofocus, especially when every new camera wants you to believe they have the fastest AF in the world. The answer is – pre-focusing. What photographers of the past did was to pre-focus their camera onto a certain zone and simply shot, paying attention so that their subjects were within that area.

    If you look at the example below, the photographer could either pre-focus on the blue or red area. Then anything or anyone that came within the blue or red area (depending which they chose) would be in focus.

    What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why

    Pre-focus zones.

    Autofocus also comes with certain issues, because even if you have the fastest autofocus in the world, it can only guess WHERE you want it to focus. When you have people coming at you, it will most likely focus on the person that is closest to you. You could change your focus points, put if you wanted to shoot outside of that point, you would have to focus and recompose. That is not a luxury you often have in the street. Zones eliminate that problem. They are like a forcefield that you have in front of your camera, whoever enters that force field will be in focus. Those fields usually require smaller apertures, hence street photographers usually rely on f/5.6 or f/8.

    Setting up your forcefield

    In order to set up your own forcefield, you will need to know what kind of shots you want. Do you want to make images of your subjects up close, or further away? That will determine where you need to focus. Let’s say you want to take a few shots with your subject at less than one meter. All you need to do is to put your lens like so:

    dof

    My aperture is at f/16, so I would put the marking on the left to 0.7, and look at the other marking on the right. That would tell me that everything between 0.7 to 1.2 meters will be in focus. The way aperture works, the further away you are, the larger the depth of field, so putting it at one meter would have had a lot of space in focus.

    But, “my lens doesn’t have those marks”, you say! That’s where a tool like DOFmaster comes in:

    Say you have a Canon 7D, for example. Select it from the camera dropdown menu and put in the lens focal length (say 35mm). If you focus at one meter, everything from 0.89m to 1.14m will be in focus. But the tool also tells you how to get the greatest zone of all, it tells you what your hyperfocal distance is. So if you focus at 8.09m, everything from 4m to infinity would be in focus at f/8.

    Most street photographers I know set it to the hyperfocal distance. But when the light starts dropping, if they want some part of the image not in focus, or if they want their subjects really close, they use smaller zones (and larger apertures) and switch between them.

    But what if your camera doesn’t even tell you where you are focused? Then you just need an app for that. You can download EasyMeasure (iOS) or Smartmeasure (Android). Then stand in front of a wall to get your distance to it, go back and forth until you get your desired distance, then focus on the wall and voila your zone is set!

    What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why
    The other settings

    Once you have your focus and aperture set, what about your other settings? You’ve got a few choices. First of all, you can leave them all on manual (shooting in Manual mode) and adjust them on the fly. Or you can put the shutter speed on automatic (camera in Aperture priority mode) and deal with ISO manually.

    A good choice is to keep the shutter speed above 1/125th because stuff usually happens fast on the streets and below that there is risk of camera shake. Of course the same applies for when you are shooting manually too, better to not go below 1/125th, but that might be different for you if you shoot slowly.

    The other setting that is left is ISO. You could also put it on auto-ISO, but put a cap on it. I think most modern cameras that are adjustable should be okay with a cap of 1600. But you’ll have to watch out, some cameras don’t have great auto ISO and will go to ISO 1600 in broad daylight.

    What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why
    The Semi-automatic Settings

    The settings below will help you to focus on the image and only worry about if someone is in your focus zone or not:

    • Set your aperture to f/8
    • Focus at the hyperfocal distance
    • Auto shutter speed, do not go lower than 1/125th
    • Auto-ISO set to not go higher than 1600

    One of the strengths of this system is that it accounts for transition time. Imagine you are walking out of a building, from which the inside was darker than outside, which is super sunny.

    If you are in manual shooting mode for your ISO and shutter speed, you may have to adjust the exposure by three stops if an image suddenly appears in front of you. While you’re changing the shutter speed you might not have time to change the ISO and may mess up the exposure. However, if at least one of them was auto, this would have been done for you automatically.

    What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why

    Conclusion

    There you have it, the street photography settings that the photographers of the past used (sans automatic modes of course) and that many street photographers still use today. But what’s most important is to find out what works best for you and your style of shooting. Try these out. They are tried and true, but nobody said you HAVE to use them. Do what works for you! Be yourself, stay focused, and keep on shooting.

    The post What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why by Olivier Duong appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    Portrait sample using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens.

    Last summer I had the opportunity to test out the Sigma 20mm f/1.4 Art lens and review it for dPS. I absolutely loved the lens, so when the opportunity arose to try Sigma’s 85mm f/1.4 Art lens, I jumped at the chance.

    I continue to be excited by Sigma’s lineup of Art lenses, as they offer incredible image quality for a great price. Several of my photographer friends were singing this lens’s praises since it began shipping, so I was eager to see if it lived up to its reputation.

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    The Sigma 85mm F1.4 DG HSM A

    First Impressions of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    As a Nikon shooter, I tested the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens in a Nikon mount. The first thing I noticed about this lens is that it is an absolute beast. The lens is 3.7 inches wide by 5 inches long (94.7mm x 126.2mm), and weighs in at a whopping two and a half pounds (1113 g / 39.3 oz.)!  Compare this to Canon’s 85mm f/1.2L II lens, which weighs in at four ounces lighter and is more than an inch and a half shorter. The filter thread is 86mm, compared to 72mm for the Canon one. For another comparison, Nikon’s 85mm f/1.4G is also more than an inch and a half shorter and 2/10 of an inch slimmer, weighs more than a pound less than the Sigma at 595 g / 21oz.), and accepts a 77mm filter.

    Specs

    The Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens consists of 14 elements in 12 groups, featuring two low dispersion SLD elements and an aspherical element to help reduce chromatic aberration. The construction of the lens feels as solid as other Sigma Art lenses I’ve used. The metal barrel has a nice finished look, the switches and focusing ring have a high quality feel to them and they are easily located when looking through the viewfinder. The ribbed rubber focusing ring takes up a large portion of the lens barrel and provides a long, smooth throw, perfect for manually focusing if you desire.

    There is rubber sealing around the lens mount to protect against dust and moisture, as well as oil repellent coatings on the front and rear elements. Sigma also states that the lens’s hypersonic motor (HSM) has 1.3x more torque than its predecessor, allowing the lens to focus faster. Minimum focus distance is 33.3 inches, similar to competitors’ lenses.

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    The Sigma 85mm F1.4 DG HSM A

    Fast glass

    The fast maximum aperture of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art makes this lens a workhorse for many applications. At f/1.4, you’re getting a lot of light through the lens and onto the imaging sensor, making it ideal for low light situations. In addition, that fast aperture allows for use of lower ISOs, helping to minimize noise. Finally, working at wider apertures such as f/1.4 mean you can force your viewer to look exactly where you want by creating images with extremely shallow depth of field.

    Accessories

    The lens ships with a high quality padded soft case, ideal for transporting the lens. Sigma also provides a sizable plastic hood, ideal for helping to eliminate lens flare off the sizable front element. The hood locks into place securely and offers good protection from impact as well.

    The Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens is compatible with Sigma’s USB dock, which helps facilitate the updating of firmware, lens calibration, or other customizations such as focus parameters. Unfortunately, I was not provided with the USB dock for this review. My first time shooting with the lens I found it to front focus quite a bit. This was corrected by using my Nikon D810’s AF Fine Tune feature, but in my 25 years in photography, that’s a feature I’ve never had to use before, so I was a little put off by the need to do so.

    In Practical Use

    Once the AF issues were corrected, the lens was awesome to use. The autofocus was fast and quiet and the lens was tack sharp. The beauty of a portrait lens at f/1.4 is the ability to blur the background way out of focus and have the sharp areas of the image really jump out at you. This made the initial front-focusing issues all the more of a problem because when you photograph using such shallow depth of field if you miss your focus, you really miss it! It’s imperative that you’re precise and that the lens can be counted on to focus where you tell it to.  See this article I wrote: Fast Glass: Tips for Working With Wide Aperture Lenses for more that.

    The Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art is an excellent portrait lens. The bokeh is buttery smooth and the contrast and sharpness make for a beautiful look to the image straight out of the camera. Repeatability of focus was a bit of an issue at times, and I occasionally had to refocus the lens when taking multiple shots at the same distance.  While for me it wasn’t a major problem, it’s worth noting when you may need to work under greater pressure than what I was facing in my test shoots.

    Portrait sample with the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 art lens.

    Portrait sample with the Sigma 85mm F1.4 Art lens.

    Other applications

    The lens does exhibit some focus breathing when changing focus from one distance to another. Focus breathing is where objects in the image become more or less magnified as the focus is changed. This won’t be a major problem for still shooters unless you are focus stacking, but for video shooters, this may be a slight cause for concern, especially when doing drastic focus pulls.

    While I did not have a chance to use the lens under these circumstances, I was struck by how quickly the lens focused and thought it would have made an excellent lens for photographing sports such as basketball, back in my sports photography days. In addition, the excellent image quality and wide aperture mean the lens can be used in many other situations. Those include; landscape photography, when either a moderate telephoto focal length is needed, or when photographing a flower, tree, or another object when you want a shallow depth of field to blur the background or foreground.

    Wildlife Example Using Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art

    Wildlife example shot with the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens. Photo courtesy Dennis Clark / dennisaclark.com

    Pros

    When properly calibrated, the lens is tack sharp and provides stellar image quality. Build quality is outstanding, and the lens felt good in my hands. The autofocus was fast and smooth, as well as quiet. Image quality was outstanding.

    Price-wise, the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens is a bargain, comparatively speaking. The Nikon 85mm f/1.4G retails for $ 1599, while Canon’s 85mm f/1.2L lists for $ 1899 (at the time of writing this review). At $ 1199, the Sigma provides outstanding image quality at quite a bit less than its competitors. The lens is available in Nikon, Canon, or Sigma mounts.

    Portrait sample using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens

    Portrait sample using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens.

    Cons

    This lens is heavy. Combined with a pro body, you could be lifting almost 6 pounds every time you take a shot. For wedding and portrait photographers who might want to use this lens a good portion of their workday, that means a lot of heavy lifting and arm fatigue after a while.

    Also, there is no image stabilization on the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art. While neither Nikon nor Canon offers image stabilization on their fast 85mm offerings, it should be noted that Tamron’s SP 85mm f/1.8 lens, while a stop slower, does have that feature. That allows the lens to be handheld at shutter speeds slower than could be achieved with the Sigma at 85mm f/1.4.

     

    Summary

    The Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens is an outstanding value that provides incredible image quality at a good price. While I would prefer it to be a bit small and lighter, there’s no denying that the bottom line for image makers is image quality and the Sigma delivers that. Four stars.

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    Portrait example using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art

     

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    Another portrait example using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    Portrait example using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art lens.

    Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens

    Nature example using the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art. Photo courtesy Dennis Clark / dennisaclark.com

    The post Review of the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art Lens by Rick Berk appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Why Wireless Tethering Will Improve Your Photography

    As a photographer, shooting tethered is one of the best ways to improve your photography skills. Tethering helps you zoom into the details of your shots on a big screen so you can make adjustments as you go. It also encourages collaboration by keeping your photo subject or client engaged if they’re on location with you. In this article, I’ll explain what tethered shooting is and why wireless tethering with an app like CamRanger is the best choice.

    What is tethering?

    By definition, tethering is when a mobile device shares its internet connection with another device. This can be done through Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, or a physical connection cable (e.g. USB). Many mobile phones can tether to share their Wi-Fi with laptops or tablets. Similarly, cameras can tether as well. But in the case of tethered shooting with a camera, the purpose is to transmit images from the camera directly to another device such as a laptop computer or tablet.

    CamRanger Wireless Tethering 11

    The cheapest and most efficient way to shoot tethered is to use a wired connection. All you need is a standard USB cable that connects to your camera and tethering software such as Capture One, Adobe Lightroom, or DSLR Controller. Wired tethering is very cheap, and it’s extremely quick. There’s practically no delay between pressing the shutter on your camera and seeing the resulting image pop up on your screen. Get more info and a detailed step-by-step guide to wired tethering here.

    What is wireless tethering?

    However, the main disadvantage with wired tethering is the cable. It can easily get unplugged from your camera or laptop and mess up the tethered connection. The cable can also be a hazard on set, causing you or your photo subject to trip over it. This is where wireless tethering can come in handy. If you shoot on location and can’t be bothered with a cable limiting your movement, wireless tethering is an option you may want to explore.

    When you tether wirelessly, you plug a device such as CamRanger into your camera and use it to create a wireless network. Any device such as a laptop or tablet can join that wireless network and your images are transmitted wirelessly every time you press the shutter button. You can even remotely control the camera from your tethered computer or tablet.

    CamRanger Wireless Tethering 10

    Why CamRanger is the Best Wireless Tethering Device

    There are several wireless tethering devices available, and I tried many of them out in search of the one that would work best. My devices requiring connectivity included a Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 6D cameras, Android smartphone, and Apple laptop computer. Although it’s the most expensive, CamRanger is my wireless tethering device of choice. Here’s why:

    1. Minimal stuff in the box

    The contents in the CamRanger box are very minimal, consisting of just a few cables, a case, simple instructions, and the unit itself. I really loved the zippered case with a carabiner that easily fit all of the items. One thing that would be nice to have is the CamRanger hot shoe mounting device, which has to be purchased separately.

    CamRanger Wireless Tethering

    2. Intuitive setup

    After unboxing CamRanger, setup is pretty simple. Begin by downloading the CamRanger app to your tethering device of choice. Currently, you can download the CamRanger app for iOS (iPhone and iPad), Android devices, Kindle Fire, and both Mac and Windows computers.

    Next, switch on the CamRanger device so that it broadcasts a Wi-Fi signal. This might take a minute or two. Then connect your tethering device, with the app installed, to the CamRanger Wi-Fi network using the CamRanger’s serial number as the Wi-Fi password. Boom! You’re ready to shoot!

    CamRanger Wireless Tethering 01

    CamRanger desktop app allows for wireless tethering and remote camera control.

    3. Compatible with Canon and Nikon

    CamRanger will work with both Canon and Nikon DSLRs. For a full list of compatible cameras, check out their website.

    How CamRanger actually works

    Whenever you shoot tethered with CamRanger, the device stores image previews in a cache on your device. The actual files are still written to your camera’s CF or SD memory card like usual. While the wireless transfer of images can definitely be slow, this process can be sped up if you change your camera preferences to shoot in JPG only, or RAW + JPG. Transferring JPG images goes much faster than RAW images.

    Another huge benefit of CamRanger is the option to switch the app into Client Mode. This allows you to hand your tethered device over to your client to preview images created in real time, without allowing them to remotely control your camera so you can keep shooting. It’s a clever feature that really adds value.

    CamRanger Wireless Tethering 11

    In practice, there are a few limitations of CamRanger to be aware of. First, note that wireless tethering still has a limited range of about 100-150 feet. If your camera and connected device drift outside of this range, you risk losing connectivity. Second, CamRanger does have a decent battery life of 5-6 hours by itself, but using it in conjunction with Live View on your camera can drain your camera batteries quickly.

    CamRanger Positive Features

    • Very easy to setup and start using immediately
    • Built-in features include focus stacking, bracketing, and intervalometer
    • Minimal pieces, so it is easy to travel with
    • Lets clients easily see my images and give feedback
    • Reduces time in post-processing by making real-time adjustments when shooting
    • Eliminates the long, hazardous USB cable needed for wired tethering



    What about built-in Wi-Fi?

    If you have a camera with built-in Wi-Fi, you can probably remote control your camera and perform some tethering functions. As an example, I have the Canon 6D DSLR which has Wi-Fi connectivity. This is great for wirelessly transmitting images to my mobile phone and for doing some remote camera control via the Canon Camera Connect mobile phone app. However, no such app exists for my laptop, so I cannot wirelessly connect to my computer without using another device and USB cable. This is why I still use CamRanger to shoot tethered from my laptop, even with my Wi-Fi enabled camera.

    CamRanger Alternatives

    There are a couple of other popular CamRanger alternatives that also permit you to do wirelessly tethering. I tried both of these options out and found they weren’t nearly as comprehensive or reliable as CamRanger.

    • CamFi
    • Tether Tools Case Air

    In Conclusion

    Do you shoot tethered? What do you think about the pros and cons of wireless tethered shooting? Let me know in the comments below!

    The post Why Wireless Tethering Will Improve Your Photography by Suzi Pratt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Create an Antique Photo Look Using a Lemon and Layer Masks in Photoshop

    Layers were presented for the first time in Adobe Photoshop in version 3.0, which launched in 1994. We take them for granted nowadays, but they were a total game changer at the time as they allowed image composites to be taken to a whole different level with image stacking and transparencies.

    Layer Masks may seem like a scary monster for a Photoshop newbie, but they are in fact quite easy to understand as they work the same way as layer transparency. But layer masks use a non-destructive way to reveal or hide portions of a layer by defining pixel opacities without affecting the original data.

    It all happens with greyscale data: think of black as transparent, white as opaque and gray as different levels of opacity depending on if they are lighter or darker. Following this theory, this also means that you can convert any greyscale image into a Layer Mask and use it to create many types of effects on your image.

    This tutorial is a step-by-step example on how to use this technique.

    How to create your own Layer Mask

    Create an old school effect

    For this particular image, I wanted to create an old-school or antique effect, like an alternative darkroom process of developing a black and white image with a brush. This mask could be done in many different ways, but, because I wanted to make it really textured and as authentic as possible, I used an oxidation process.

    Prepare the paper first

    To give this process a try, you will need a paper sheet and some lemon juice.

    02 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Brush the paper with the lemon juice and create you mask area

    03 How to create your own Layer Masks

    The lemon juice will oxidate upon contact with air, but it will take a long time. To accelerate the process, you can put the paper near a heat source like a tungsten lamp or if you want it even faster, you can use an oven at a low temperature setting like I did here.

    04 How to create your own Layer Masks

    The lemon juice will start to turn a brown color. Remove the paper from the oven when you get the color and texture you intend, and your paper sheet is ready to be scanned or photographed to create an image file like this:

    05 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Photoshop technique

    Now open Photoshop and the image on which you want to create the mask.

    06 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Convert the layer to a mask

    Now click on the layer mask icon on the bottom of the layers’ palette and your background layer will be converted into Layer 0 with a white mask next to it.

    Press the alt/option key on your keyboard and click on the white mask to make it visible and active. This is a very important step! If you miss this step the image itself will be active and visible instead of the mask, that is what you will be working on.

    Once you have done this, the image itself will not disappear, it will just be hidden.

    07 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Convert to greyscale

    Now it’s time to open your mask image and convert it to greyscale. One easy way to do it is to use the desaturate function located in: Image > Adjustments > Desaturate (or keyboard shortcut Control/Cmd+Shift+U)

    08 How to create your own Layer Masks

    The final image you want to create is white around the edges, so your mask should be the opposite. You can use the invert function for this: Image > Adjustments > Invert (Control/Cmd+I)

    09 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Put the image into the mask

    Next, it is time to paste the image into the mask with these simple steps:

    • Select > All (Control/Cmd+A)
    • Edit > Copy (Control/Cmd+C)
    • Now click on the original image where you created the layer mask and go to: Edit > Paste (Control/Cmd+P)
    • Click on the eye icon on the left side of the layers’ palette to see the image and the mask working together.

    10 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Add a white layer

    As you can see the mask creates different levels of transparency on the image. To be able to see the transparency as white we can create a new white layer to use as a background.

    • Go to: Layer > New > Layer (Control/Cmd+Shift+N)
    • Edit > Fill > Contents: White; Mode: Normal; Opacity: 100%

    11 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Now just drag the new white layer to the bottom position of the layers panel, and you will have a full view of the final image appearance.

    12 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Fine-tune the effect

    Now it is just a matter of a few adjustments to fine-tune the effect you want. In this particular image, I will adjust the size of the mask. Click on the mask icon in the layers’ palette and then click on the chain between the image and the mask icon to unlink them.

    13 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Next go to: Edit > Transform > Scale (Control/Cmd+T). Drag the image edge lines to transform the shape of the mask and adjust it to the image size.

    14 How to create your own Layer Masks

    The size of the mask is right, but the image looks to washed out. We can increase the contrast of the mask to make the blending with the image look better.

    Go to: Image > Adjustments > Levels (Control/Cmd+L). Adjust the sliders on the levels dialogue box to create the effect you want.

    15 How to create your own Layer Masks

    Lastly, for the old image look, you can use the black and white function. Click on the image icon in the layers’ palette so that you are editing the image and not the mask, then go to; Image > Adjustments > Black & White (Control/Cmd+Alt+Shift+B). Adjust the sliders on the Black & White dialogue box to create the effect you want.

    Note: You can also add the black and white as an adjustment layer to keep your editing non-destructive. Additionally, you can paint on the mask with a black brush, over any areas you want to keep clear (such as her eyes or face). 

    16 How to create your own Layer Masks

    There it is, a quick and easy way to create your own layer masks. Give it a try and share your images with us in the comments below.

    The post How to Create an Antique Photo Look Using a Lemon and Layer Masks in Photoshop by Ivo Guimaraes appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School