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Category: Photography

  • Review of the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light INT812

    What is a ring light?

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    Even if you don’t know what a ring light is, it is probable that you have seen photos made using them. As the name suggest, they are a light source in the shape of a ring, often, your camera is mounted on the light so the lens points through it. This on-axis lighting provides even, shadowless illumination on the front of your subject. It is a very distinct style most often seen in fashion photography.

    In the past, ring lights were expensive or required a solid set of DIY skills to build your own.

    The effect is not to everyone’s taste, and that’s fair enough. Sometimes, the light can appear flat and lifeless, which puts some people off. Also, a lot of photographers don’t like the distinctive ring-shaped catch-lights. That is also fair. If, however, you do like what can be achieved with a ring light, but you’ve been put off by price in the past, then the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light may just be for you.

    Pros of the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    There are a lot of things to love about the Interfit Flourescent Ring Light. In no particular order, they are:

    Cost

    At $ 100, the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light is cheap. No, it’s not a strobe, but when you compare it to, say, Bowens’ dedicated Ringflash Pro (listed for $ 2021 on B&H), the Interfit is close to $ 2000 cheaper. This makes ring lights accessible to almost every photographer who wants to use one.

    Weight

    The unit itself is quite large, but at 1.3 kg it’s light enough to carry anywhere without much trouble. If you often shoot in a studio or space that isn’t your own, throwing the Interfit ring light in the back of your car is not going to be a logistical issue.

    Size

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    The ring light itself is rather large. But because you are not attaching the lens to the light, it gives you a lot of space to move around with the camera while still being able to see your subject through the light’s aperture. It also means that you can use a longer lens, such as 200mm while keeping the light really close to your subject.

    Continuous

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    With the Interfit INT812 being a continuous light source, you gain a few advantages. The first of these being that replacement bulbs are cheap, despite the size, they are only around $ 14 each.

    Another is that after being on for about an hour, the bulb never gets particularly hot. This is great if you’re photographing people as you don’t have to worry about that aspect of your subject’s comfort.

    Finally, there’s the matter of your subject’s pupils. With strobe lighting, you are usually in dark environments with periodic bursts of bright light. As we all know, our eyes adjust to the dark and our pupils dilate to allow us to see. In bright light, such as this ring light offers, it’s the reverse and your subject’s pupils contract, revealing more of the color in their eyes.

    Bendable arm

    Thanks to a bendable arm, the Interfit INT812 is able to be put in almost any position, making it a very versatile light.

    The real beauty of this light is the bendable arm that it is mounted on. This arm, combined with the fact that the light is not mounted to your camera, means that you are not limited to using it as a traditional ring light. You can use and position it as you would any other light source. It’s also possible to point it straight down, a feat usually reserved for boom arms.

    At one point I found myself using it as a hair light, alongside a softbox fitted to a strobe as my key light. The versatility all of this provides is more than worth the price tag, even if you never use it on-axis as a traditional ring light.

    Interfit NG-65c ring light

    Placed at a 45-degree angle, the narrow edge creates interestingly shaped highlight and shadow areas.

    Interfit NG-65c ring light

    Positioned straight down and a few inches above, the Interfit Ringlight provided some much-needed fill on an all black subject.

    Cons of the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    As much as I like this light, it does have a few problems as outlined below.

    Build quality

    As I’ve mentioned already, the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light is not an expensive piece of equipment. In terms of build quality, it’s reasonable to not expect too much from it. The entire casing is made out of lightweight plastic and does feel a bit flimsy at the best of times. That said, both the bulb and the bendable arm seem to be of good quality. So far, I’ve used it about a dozen times and I have yet to have an issue.

    Low intensity

    Because this is a continuous light at the cheaper end of the market, the intensity of the light isn’t exactly the brightest. Because of this, you will be limited to working with large apertures and high ISO settings. Depth of field is unforgiving at apertures like f/1.8, so I would encourage using a tripod and taking your time focusing.

    At the other end of the scale, it is very bright to look directly into from less than a foot away. This may be uncomfortable for your subjects if you have them in front of it for a long period of time.

    If you’re used to using high powered strobes, you need to keep an eye out for other light sources that may affect your images. As the ring light isn’t very high powered, any ambient light around will add unwanted color casts to your images.

    Chromatic aberration

    When used on axis, chromatic aberration appears around the catch-lights in almost every photo. This isn’t much of a problem as Lightroom will make short work of the aberrations, but it is important to know about.

    Chromatic aberration appears around the catchlight from the Interfit INT812; however, this easily fixed in Lightroom.

    Color temperature

    In terms of mixing multiple light sources, The Interfit INT812 does pose a few problems. It is not daylight balanced, nor does it match the fluorescent light balance preset in camera or in Lightroom. If this is the only light source present, you can eyeball the sliders in Lightroom or use a simple grey card to solve the problem.

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    The Interfit Right Light works well as a fill/hair light, although it does take some time to fix the resulting color casts.

    However, when you’re mixing light sources, for example, if you use the ring light in combination with studio strobes, you will have to overcome unwelcome color casts. With the white balance set to flash, the color from the ring light is an unpleasant green. It’s an easy fix with all of the color correction tools in Photoshop and Lightroom, but it’s a problem easily avoided if you’d rather not spend the time correcting it. Of course, you could just use this as an excuse to shoot in black and white.

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    Extra equipment

    So far, I have only come across one real problem while using the Interfit ring light. Because it is so light, I was happy to put it on one of my cheaper light stands. When I started using the bendable arm to put the light at weird angles, it became top-heavy and off balance and started to fall over. Putting it on a heavy duty light stand solved the problem. However, watching one of your lights start on its way to the floor is not an experience that I recommend anyone replicating.

    The problem here is that good quality, heavy-duty light stands can start at around half the price of the ring light. If you don’t already have a good light stand before you consider purchasing the Interfit INT812, please be sure to include that into your pricing considerations.

    Overall Impressions

    Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light

    For $ 100, I love this thing. No, it isn’t perfect, but it does add an awful lot of versatility to my toolkit. I like it so much, that as long as there’s a place to plug it in, I will be going out of my way to take it with me from now on.

    It might be obvious, but I do like the ring light effect a lot. However, even if you hate ring lights, the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light INT812 brings a lot to the table and does so in a price range that doesn’t make it cost prohibitive to give it a try.

    The post Review of the Interfit Fluorescent Ring Light INT812 by John McIntire appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Improve your Photography in 21 Days

    The web is saturated with top ten lists of how to be a better photographer. Heck, I’ve even written a number of them myself. Yet, one has to wonder, how much better can someone really become after reading just one article? Wouldn’t a larger transformation involving several weeks or months be necessary?

    Depending on your current amount of personal bandwidth, you may not like the answer. There are some shortcuts, but ultimately you are looking at a minimum of 21 days to really make an impact.

    Better photographer 21 days 02

    For an even deeper understanding of how it all works, you need to dedicate a little bit of time every day for three weeks. It’s a big commitment, I know, but at the end of this period you will be shooting with the best of them. In the grand scheme of things, it’s actually not that long. Just 21 days is all it will take. Let’s get started with the essentials.

    Week 1

    Day #1 – Believe in Yourself

    I know it’s only day one, but this first step is a critical part of your growth as a photographer. It’s where you tune-out your inner critic and start thinking positively. The transformation your thoughts can make is truly remarkable. Be careful though, negative patterns will try to creep back in. Squash them as they arise and replace them with something positive about yourself. This tip is first because it’s the foundation that everything else is built upon. Without it, you’re building a house on sand.

    “Believe in yourself! Have faith in your abilities! Without a humble but reasonable confidence in your own powers you cannot be successful or happy.” – Author, Normal Vincent Peale.

    Better photographer 21 days 10

    Day #2 – Get a Library Card

    Amazon is convenient, but the library has its own charm. It’s where you’ll find treasures you didn’t realize you were looking for. It’s in those long aisles full of books that you’ll find a heaping dose of inspiration. Flip through the pages, study how the masters composed and created their shots. Look for titles by Ernst Haas, Eliot Porter, Garry Winogrand, Robert Frank, Ansel Adams, and more.

    Don’t stop there, however. Take the time to learn about photographers you’ve never heard of. Read about what inspired them to get started and any tips they may offer. One of my favorites is the Nature Photography Field Guide by John Shaw. He has the simplest way of teaching the most complex topics, including manual metering.

    “Everything you need for better future and success has already been written. And guess what? All you have to do is go to the library.” – Henri Frederic Amiel.

    Day #3 – Face Your Fears

    If there is some type of photography that really freaks you out, make a concerted effort to schedule time for it. Perhaps you only shoot landscapes and nature. If so, now is the time to try your hand at portraiture or street photography.

    Better photographer 21 days 06

    I talk to many photographers who never use flash and claim that they only use natural light. That sounds reasonable, but deep down you know it’s just an excuse to avoid learning about guide numbers, slave units, TTL, etc. Don’t avoid this step as it will come back to haunt you later on. The more educated you are, the more jobs you’ll be able to accept. This will make all the difference in your potential earnings, should you choose to go pro.

    “Inaction breeds doubt and fear. Action breeds confidence and courage. If you want to conquer fear, do not sit home and think about it. Go out and get busy.” – Dale Carnegie.

    Day #4 – Reach Out for Help

    Okay, so you’ve identified your weakness, but you have no idea where to turn for guidance. This is where you get to wave the flag and ask for help from a professional. Sure you can visit a photography forum, but you may get poor advice from amateurs or those who think they know it all. A better option is to find a local mentor or one who offers online training and Skype calls. Many sites offer this type of service for a reasonable fee.

    Better photographer 21 days 05

    Regardless of who you use, be sure to check out their work, and read any testimonials from past students. With a trusted advocate by your side, you can speed up the learning process. If you’re hesitant about seeking guidance, consider this; asking for assistance proves your strength, not your weakness.

    Day #5 – Learn a New Camera Feature

    Cameras have never been so sophisticated. Unlike the cameras of old, they are essentially mini computers. With such features like live view, autofocus tracking, electronic viewfinders, histograms, and white balance. It can seem daunting at times. Yet if you don’t get ahead of technology, you risk being left behind.

    That’s why I recommend upgrading your camera every few years. It doesn’t mean your current camera is no longer relevant, but consider using it as a backup to your new model. If purchasing isn’t a viable option right now, then I’d recommend renting a camera for a week or so.

    Better photographer 21 days 07

    If you’ve only used DSLRs, then a mirrorless camera would be an eye-opening experience. Another educational experience is to really dig into the camera menu. Mess with every button and play with every feature. Keep the camera manual nearby to cross reference anything you’re not sure of, and learn it.

    Day #6 – Start a Website

    There is no excuse for a Facebook page being used as a website (especially if you want to do this as a business). Your web presence is the first impression people will have of your work, and you know what they say about first impressions. When someone is viewing your images for the first time, send them to a professional website with big bold images, a contact page, and perhaps a short bio.

    Today there are totally free options like Wix and Weebly which are perfect for slick portfolio pages. If you want a more powerful platform, check out Squarespace with their photography templates and e-commerce integration.

    “First impressions matter. Experts say we size up new people in somewhere between 30 seconds and two minutes.” – Elliott Abrams.

    Day #7 – Create a Savings Plan to Buy Good Gear

    Better photographer 21 days 11

    Lenses are a long-term investment, and as such, they are usually quite expensive. Still, a good lens will absolutely make a big impact on your work. For example, a professional quality lens will typically be sharper, faster to focus, easier to create a shallow depth of field with, and have a tougher build for all-weather conditions.

    I would go as far as saying that the lens will make more of a difference than the camera. For this reason, it makes sense to build your kit with quality glass. Rather than starting off in photography with debt, start a savings fund for photography gear. Anytime you make extra money (from your photography or otherwise), save a portion of it. If you’re working a day job, try to squirrel away a little each paycheck.

    When you do eventually purchase your lens, be sure to pick up a quality UV filter to protect the glass. I once saw a rented 300mm lens smash to the cement. The filter was shattered in hundreds of little pieces while the lens itself was 100% intact.

    Better photographer 21 days 14

    Week 2

    Day #8 – Accept Your Faults

    Whether you’re a reclusive introvert or an over-the-top outgoing type A, there is a type of photography for you. The trick is to work with your faults, not against them. If you’re not a people person, perhaps wedding photography isn’t the best role for you. Instead, consider a more solitary pursuit such as travel or wildlife photography. For those with the gift of gab, portraiture might be a perfect fit.

    “The learner always begins by finding fault, but the scholar sees the positive merit in everything.” – Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel.

    Day #9 – Embrace Success

    It sounds counter-intuitive but many people are actually afraid to succeed. Similar to the fear of failure, this can hold one back from fulfilling their dreams. Because success is heavy, it carries a responsibility. It is much easier to procrastinate and live on the “someday I’ll do it” philosophy. Don’t sabotage yourself! Stay focused on all of the good things success can bring.

    Better photographer 21 days 19

    The writer Denis Waitley says – “People procrastinate because they are afraid of the success that they know will result if they move ahead now.”

    Day #10 – Commit to Waking Up an Hour Earlier

    I’m not talking about catching sunrise every day, but simply using the extra hour towards your passion for photography. This could be blogging, working on your website, studying, networking, or editing photos. There are endless ways to use the time. Of course, it’s also the best time to take photos as well. Besides there being no one around to spoil your composition, the light is spectacular at dawn and sunrise. It’s also when wildlife and birds are most active.

    The coach, George Allen, Sr. said – “Work hard, stay positive, and get up early. It’s the best part of the day.”

    Day #11 – Build an “I Quit” Fund

    Imagine handing your boss a resignation letter to pursue your career in photography. It happened to me, and it can be your reality as well. Ideally, you want about six months of reserve funds, you can probably get by with three. I know this sounds like a tall order, but it all starts with a single step.

    Better photographer 21 days 13

    Start a special savings account and add to it every month with funds from your day job. Need help raising the cash? Raid your chest of photo gear and sell anything you haven’t used in at least a year. If you need more, get a part-time job for a while. Eventually, you’ll have enough to leave behind a job you are unhappy with and begin your new career as a photographer.

    Day #12 – Meet People in Real Life

    Social networks are terrific, but face to face meetings are even more valuable. You may be wondering where to find these like-minded people. Start by joining a local camera club, or visiting a nearby art gallery. Perhaps you can take a photography class at a community college in your area. Bring your business cards to popular photography spots and talk to fellow photographers. You can exchange tips, geek out over gear talk, and share favorite locations.

    As another perk, they may recommend you for a job they aren’t interested in. You can potentially get work and experience by simply being cordial. Hey, you may even make some friends along the way. The photo industry is small, so it pays to stick together.

    Better photographer 21 days 04

    Day #13 – Listen to Your Heart

    I know, it’s the title of a song by the 80s band, Roxette. That’s not the point. What is important is to find your passion.

    When you look around the web it’s easy to slip into a nasty funk. Don’t compare yourself to what others are doing, even if they’re successful. Follow your gut and do the type of photography that makes you happy. Some people may tell you that being a jack of all trades is not wise. However, if you feel like photographing all kinds of subjects, don’t let anyone stand in your way.

    “Your work is going to fill a large part of your life, and the only way to be truly satisfied is to do what you believe is great work. And the only way to do great work is to love what you do. If you haven’t found it yet, keep looking. Don’t settle. As with all matters of the heart, you’ll know when you find it.” – Steve Jobs.

    Day #14 – Ask for More Work

    It sounds painful, I know, but seeking out more photography work could be one of the best decisions you make. Go on Craigslist, offer to be a second shooter at a wedding. Ask to assist on a portrait shoot, or offer your editing help to a local studio. You have to create your own opportunities as jobs will rarely fall in your lap. As you gain more experience, you’ll also enjoy more exposure.

    Better photographer 21 days 20

    “There exist limitless opportunities in every industry. Where there is an open mind, there will always be a frontier.” – Charles Kettering.

    Week 3

    Day #15 – Invest in Your Mind

    Invest in yourself, as there is nothing more valuable than your future. As Benjamin Franklin said, “An investment in knowledge pays the best interest.”

    For photographers, this can be done in a number of ways. Group workshop are a terrific way to expedite the learning curve. If you prefer one-on-one training, you can take private photography lessons. Of course, not all of your efforts have to be paid options. Watching free online tutorials and reading articles (like those here on dPS!) will cost nothing but your time.

    Day #16 – Take a Sick Day

    You know those extra hours you’ve been saving up at work? Use one day for a photography outing. There are rarely awards for perfect attendance, so what’s the point? There’s nothing quite like an impromptu road trip to lift your spirits and break you out of a creative rut.

    Better photographer 21 days 16

    Everyone deserves a day to pursue their passion, plus, you’ll be more productive when you return to work. Recharging your batteries is a necessary way to strike a balance between work and play. This is an essential step, so don’t skip it.

    Day #17 – Do Volunteer Work

    Not only will this make you feel good, but you are using your skills to make the world a kinder place. Coincidentally, my entire business started by volunteering a single print to a non-profit organization’s fundraiser. The winner was an amateur photographer in a nearby town. She reached out to see if I did private lessons. Fast forward nearly 10 years, and I now teach photography full-time.

    Although it’s a hotly debated topic, it can absolutely pay to work for free on occasion. Bare in mind, I’m not talking about shooting a wedding for free. The idea is to find an organization you can back, and donate your time or services to them for an afternoon.

    “Research has shown that people who volunteer often live longer.” – Allen Klein.

    Better photographer 21 days 12

    Day #18 – Forget the Haters

    When people are hateful, remember this quote by author Shannon L. Adler, “You will face your greatest opposition when you are closest to your biggest miracle.”

    Let’s face it, some people will just not be happy when you’re on the verge of something great. Don’t take it personally, as it’s their issue, not yours. Perhaps the most common place for haters to lurk is online, especially in blog post comments or on photography forums. There are even “trolls” who look to instigate trouble under anonymous names. They want you to engage and waste your time. Don’t take the bait, expend your energy, or let them limit your success. They don’t deserve your attention which can be used for much more positive things.

    Day #19 – Cut Out Bad Habits

    Do you leave your camera on automatic and just fire away? If so, you are doing yourself a disservice. Work to break these bad habits once and for all. Put the camera into manual mode and learn how to properly expose by using the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. This is one area where there are no shortcuts. Without it, it’s like you are driving blindfolded.

    Better photographer 21 days 09

    Bad habits aren’t formed overnight. Similarly, it will require considerable effort to break them. In photography, you need to be your own coach. This requires that you be honest with yourself. If you catch yourself cheating, replace the bad habit with the proper steps immediately.

    “People try to change too much at once and it becomes overwhelming, and they end up falling off the program. So gradually changing bad habits makes much more of a difference than trying to change them all at once.” – Ian K. Smith.

    Day #20 – Plan the Night Before

    Laying out your clothes the night before is always helpful, but what about taking it a step further. Imagine how much more productive you could be if you planned the entire next day before hitting the sack. This is especially important when you want to spend time doing photography. It involves charging all batteries, formatting memory cards, packing your gear, getting the tripod ready, and gassing up the car. Don’t leave these things for the last minute or you’ll end procrastinating.

    Better photographer 21 days 03

    It may also help to write down your five most important goals for the next day. Block out the time, add them to your calendar and get ready to have a terrific adventure. If you need caffeine to get going, be sure to set the coffee pot to automatically brew the next morning.

    “Productivity is never an accident. It is always the result of a commitment to excellence, intelligent planning, and focused effort.” – Paul J. Meyer.

    Day #21 – Start a Journal

    You don’t need to write like Anais Nin to keep a journal. For photographers, a simple notebook with sketches and ideas can have a number of benefits. For one, you’ll retain more information by writing it down. You can even spark your creativity by capturing your thoughts in a daydream.

    Dr. James Pennebaker, author of Writing to Heal says, “When we translate an experience into language we essentially make the experience graspable.” This means that complex topics can be worked out on paper in a way that’s easy to digest. Mistakes can be documented as well as solutions. When you look back at it, you can see just how far you’ve come. This ushers in a feeling of accomplishment and encourages you to keep going.

    Better photographer 21 days 08

    Conclusion

    So is it possible to improve your photography in three weeks? I believe it is, and the keys to do so are listed above.

    Granted, it’s going to be hard work, but you’ve read this far so you must be hungry for change. In addition to transforming your photography, some of these items can improve the quality of your life. Of course, it doesn’t all happen at once and will require patience. Stick with the program for 21 days, however, and you’ll see the impact.

    Consider this my personal guarantee to you. If you really try the steps in this article, I promise you’ll not only be a better photographer but a happier person as well. Leave me a note in the comments to let me know about your progress.

    The post How to Improve your Photography in 21 Days by Chris Corradino appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to do Creative Water Splash Photography with Off-Camera Flash

    Photography gives us the unique opportunity to freeze time. Moments that normally can’t be seen because they occur in the blink of an eye can suddenly be captured by a camera with incredible precision. This gives us the opportunity to discover fascinating and unique opportunities for photography that showcase and celebrate the wonder of the world around us. It can also be an extremely fun and creative style of photography, and a way to practice your skills with off-camera flash.

    A toy car dropped into water, photographed with off-camera flash

    Chances are you’ve come across a photo of a water droplet or water splash before. The intricate and mesmerizing patterns of water droplets in flight make for excellent abstract art.

    But how can you take a picture fast enough? How does it work to freeze each individual droplet in midair?

    A water droplet frozen in midair with off-camera flash photography

    Lightning Fast Photography

    Most modern cameras can take a picture as fast as 1/8000th of a second. You’ve probably noticed, however, that lightning fast shutter speeds typically require a lot of light.

    If you are walking around outdoors on a bright and sunny, you will be able to get your camera up to 1/8000th, and you can capture a water fight or the splash of a water fountain. However, there often isn’t enough light to take a good image indoors or under cloudy lighting conditions.

    Water droplets splashing into a jar, photographed with off-camera flash

    Furthermore, taking a picture under sunny lighting conditions won’t hide the background. The intricacies of the water will be lost against the background.

    That’s why the trick to creating a truly amazing water image is to use off-camera flash.

    How it works

    Cameras only record what they see. This means that a picture taken in a dark room will result in a pitch black picture.

    When you use flash in a dark room, your subject will be illuminated for the duration of the flash of light – which means that your new “shutter speed” will be the speed at which your flash fires (flash duration).

    Depending on the model and power, a flash can fire as quickly as 1/10,000th of a second. This new shutter speed of 1/10,000th of a second is easily fast enough to freeze a water droplet in midair.

    A water droplet, frozen in midair with off-camera flash

    This shot was taken using the settings 1/250, f/5,6, ISO 250. Even with the “slow” shutter speed, the flash stops the water droplet in mid-flight.

    The neat thing here is that as long as the room is dark, the shutter speed on your camera doesn’t actually even matter anymore. With the right setting, your camera can take an image that lasts for a full second long, but the final shot will only be recorded in the blazing fast burst of light from the flash.

    Setting up your shot

    To try this out for yourself, you will need to set up in a fairly dark room – dark enough so that you can use your in-camera settings to take a completely black picture. You’ll need to get off Auto mode in order to do this.

    Remember that the aperture and ISO that you select will affect your flash power. Selecting either a wider aperture or a higher ISO will make your camera more sensitive to light, including the light from your flash. This makes your flash more powerful, in a way.

    For this purpose, I used the following setup:

    A behind the scenes shot of the setup for water splash photography

    Note the towel. A towel just might be the most important piece of equipment to remember when you try water splash photography!

    Even though there is still some light in the room, I was able to create a dark background by setting my camera to 1/250, f/5, ISO 250.

    Get the flash off-camera

    The key is to use the flashes off-camera. Having the light come in at an angle is more in line with how we experience light in the real world, so it produces a more naturally lit image.

    But you don’t need to have multiple flashes to try this out – experiment with one flash and see what happens!

    More importantly, by bringing the light in from an angle and preventing it from shining on the walls or objects behind your subject, you can create a dark background. This really makes each droplet shimmer and shine in contrast.

    Two tomatoes splashing into water, shot with off-camera flash

    A toy car splashing into water, photography with off-camera flash

    Two common ways of triggering a flash off-camera are to use either a radio transmitter or a sync cord that connects your camera’s hotshoe to the flash itself. Your camera may also be able to fire your off-camera flash optically using the built-in pop-up flash. You may need to check your camera’s manual to see if your system has that functionality.

    The exact power settings you will need to use on your flash will vary depending on the type of flash, the setup, and the distance between your flash and the splash you are photographing.

    Remember: Digital is cheap! Experiment and watch your camera’s LCD screen after every shot. If it is too dark, simply turn up the flash power or consider moving your lights a bit closer to the subject.

    Getting the timing right

    Once you have everything set up, it’s simply a matter of trial and error! Even with a fancy setup, perfecting your timing in order to capture a splash at the right moment is tough.

    Unless you have a high end strobe unit, you won’t be able to take pictures quickly – the batteries will need a moment to recharge every time they fire. This means you’ve only got one shot for every splash!

    A man photographed with off-camera flash as he is hit by water in the face

    If you get tired of using toy cars as a model, why not ask a friend to step in?

    Every camera has a very slight delay after you press the shutter button (before it actually takes the picture). You’ll want to work on your timing so that you can make the most of every shot – especially if you ask a friend to stand in as a target for a water splash picture!

    Shooting digital allows you to experiment until you have a good sense of the timing. After a bit of practice, you will have some incredible and creative water splashes to show for your effort!

    A man being photographed splashing water while on a black background

    The post How to do Creative Water Splash Photography with Off-Camera Flash by Frank Myrland appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Steps To Better Photography

    A few weeks ago I received an email from a new photographer who asked, “How do I make my images better?” At first, I chuckled, realizing that question has resulted in the production of thousands of articles here at dPS, and uncountable books, websites, and magazines. There is just SO MUCH information on how to do better photography that it’s easy to get lost in the sea of advice, photo tips, and expert opinion.

    better photography

    In my response to that struggling photographer, I sketched out six things and quickly sent the email. My answer was off the cuff, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that my advice was actually pretty darn good. These six things really will help you improve your photographs. Some are easy to accomplish and some reach to the core of the art of photography. All of them, however, will push you further into your process and lead you a bit closer to the images you’ve always wanted to create.

    Better photography

    Aerial image of the Hula Hula River in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska.

    1. Know Your Camera

    This is the easiest one to tackle. One of the places where I’ve noticed new photographers stumbling is having a poor understanding of their camera. Know what each setting means, what it does to your image, and how to quickly change from one to another. Know the five essential camera settings backward and forwards, how to set them, and what impact they will have on your final image.

    Better photography

    Understanding how bright, snowy conditions will impact your image, and your camera’s ability to meter correctly will allow you to quickly capture fleeting light like this, when others may stumble.

    But don’t stop there. Spend some time in the menus and custom settings. Know things like focus and metering modes, and how those relate to different shooting situations.

    I recently added a new camera system to my quiver (Panasonic Lumix) and am having to re-learn all these things for a new camera brand. It is daunting, but it is also extremely important. Get friendly with your camera until you understand it intimately. Then, when you are in the field and need to make changes quickly, you won’t have to think twice, or god-forbid, have to look it up while your opportunity slips away.

    2. Learn the Rules

    Better photography

    Rule of thirds composition. It’s a “rule” because it usually works.

    If you’ve spent much time reading about photography online, you’ll have read the words “Break the rules!” so often it’s become a platitude. Everyone is pushing you to break rules, but there is very little discussion about the rules themselves, what they mean, and why they should be broken. The fact of the matter is that the “rules” of photography are guidelines for a reason – they often work.

    better photography

    The “rule of thirds” for example, is effective because it results in a pleasing composition. (There is a mathematical reason for this, but a complete discussion of the topic is beyond the scope of this article.)

    Proper focus, exposure, and color balance are all “rules” because they result in a pleasing image. Know how to effectively achieve these in your images again and again in a variety of shooting situations. Once you’ve mastered the “rules”, you can move beyond them (see #6 below).

    3. Study Images Until You Know WHY They Work

    As you are browsing through images on the internet, in magazines, or books, take a few minutes to study the photos that catch your eye and consider:

    1. What did you first see that captured your interest? Was there an action, color, or story that was compelling?
    2. How does your eye move through the image? At what point do you lose interest?
    3. What colors or points of contrast are interesting?
    4. Is there a story being told? What is it?
    better photography

    What about this image catches your eye? Is it something else that causes you to linger?

    Images can be effective alone, in groups, or as part of a larger story being told in the surrounding text. Social media has a tendency to raise up stand alone images, but I encourage you to go farther. Good images are often a part of stories, and stories need to go somewhere. Sometimes that’s to the next photo in the series, sometimes it’s integrated into the text.

    Successful photographers know this, and will cater their images to reflect the context. Magazines like National Geographic are very good at it, and many of the images in their pages do not stand alone well, but work beautifully within the context of the story being told.

    better photography

    Consider the images carefully, how they do, or do not integrate with their surroundings, and then try to reverse engineer them. How did the photographer create the photo? Is there artificial light? What exposure was likely used? Often there is a reason why successful photographer’s images look a certain way. See if you can suss that out by looking.

    4. Make Lots and Lots of Photos

    There is an old adage about becoming a good writer, “Write every day.” It’s no different with photography. Practice is vital. Make images, waste pixels. Delete lots, but make images, one way or another.

    better photography

    An atypical composition on a bright, flat-light day. The almost upside-down composition makes this image successful despite the poor light.

    When you have successful images, study them as I recommended above in #3 to find out why they worked, and what you could have done to make them even better. Honest self-critique is tough. We can almost always find a way to justify our errors or to overlook the mistakes we make. We have a tendency to like our own images because they remind us of our experiences creating them, but our viewers don’t share those memories. The experience of viewing the images has to be sufficient.

    Try to look at your photos as an outsider would, take note of the distracting elements, the clumsy balance, or off-kilter compositions. Consider would could be better, and work toward that goal your next time you’re out with your camera.

    5. Travel

    Getting away from our home environment is a great way to find inspiration. That can be a trip to some photogenic destination a world away, or simply driving to a different part of town. The trick is to break out of your rut, and make some new images.

    better photography

    When you come eye to eye with a grizzly bear, it’s easy to get overly excited and screw up your images. But, if you have the fundamentals of photography and your camera controls mastered, your odds of success improve dramatically.

    New places also tend to inspire, but I caution you here. More than once, at a new place, I’ve been so enthusiastic to make images, oohing and aahing at the sights I’m seeing, that I failed to pay attention to the basics (See #1 and #2). I have utterly blown entire mornings of beautiful light because I was so caught up in the excitement that I didn’t notice my compositions were wonky, or my exposures were blown out.

    Escape your normal routine, but always remember the fundamentals of photography.

    6. Become Your Own Photographer

    better photography

    Storm light, shadows, and the sun, play across the northern foothills of Alaska’s Brooks Range. It isn’t a classic composition, yet I knew this image would work when I made it.

    Much of the advice I’ve shared here relies on comparing your own work to that of others. This is a great way to learn, but eventually, you run the risk of stagnating, or worse, imitating others.

    better photography

    Every shooter is inspired by the work of other photographers. We all have gone through stages where we want to make similar images (or even identical) to what others have made. That’s why some sites are so famous: the Firefall in Yosemite, the bears catching salmon in Katmai National Park, the Tetons over the Snake River. Photographers crowd these locations, trying desperately to emulate, imitate, or re-create famous images they’ve seen before. This can be a great way to learn, but please don’t stop there.

    better photography

    Nothing about the lighting in this image follows the rules. It was blistering hot, midday, washout light. If I had followed the rules, I would never have lifted my camera.

    Once you’ve mastered the basics and have a strong understanding of what makes an image succeed or fail, it’s time to break out on your own. Make images for yourself, compositions that are a-typical, weird, strangely composed and focused. Take the rules of composition, focus, and exposure and push their limits. Here is where the rules can be bent and broken. This is where you experiment, play, and most of the time – fail utterly.

    But sometimes you won’t fail. Sometimes, that strange composition, that weird exposure, will work, and work beautifully.

    better photography

    Make images because they speak to you, not because you think your Instagram followers will like them. When you break away from what you think is expected, and to what you care about, your images will become your own. For me, this took a long time, but once I found my groove, my own style, I started enjoying the art of photography even more.

    better photography

    Caribou in winter on the arctic coastal plain of northern Alaska. Nothing typical about the lighting or composition of this image, yet it’s one of my favorite wildlife images. I’ve never seen another image like this, and that’s a big part of what I like about it.

    Conclusion

    Don’t try and please everyone. If you do, your work will appear generic and it will not push you to excel. In other words, be willing to fail. A willingness to fail will eventually lead to success.

    Do you follow these six tips? Do you have any others that you would suggest to beginners to help them do better photography? Please share in the comments below.

    The post 6 Steps To Better Photography by David Shaw appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Improve Your Art – The Creative Process in Photography

    As photographers, we all want to be constantly improving our work. However, often this can seem like an uphill struggle, especially when you are just starting out. As an art form, photography is all about the creative process and exploring ideas through images, but in order to really create great images you need to put a plan in place for your own development; especially focused on skills, inspiration, purpose and output. By tackling these elements you can focus your mind and develop your work, to help you produce better and more refined art every time you go out on location.

    Creating prints as a final output

    Skills – The Basics

    In order to get on to the creative elements, having a solid understanding of the base knowledge first is integral to improving your art as a photographer. I’m not going to go into detail here about understanding exposure, depth of field, composition, etc., but these are key things to spend time on.

    It may seem like a huge task, but with solid work you can come to grips with being able to shoot in full manual mode easily within a month. After that point, you need to understand the basics as well as the layout of your camera’s functions, helping to make it an extension of yourself and not a distraction from your intended subject. There are a large number of fantastic tutorials here on dPS that can help you to get up to speed and really understand the basics.

    Knowing your settings

    Focus Days

    Taking your learning further is all about practice and persistence, so think about spending a few days focused on certain image types. Set yourself the task of going out the door to just shoot panning images, wide angles, bokeh, etc. This will help you to formulate the skills in your photographer’s arsenal and produce more creative images for the future.

    No matter how many years you have been shooting, testing yourself and constantly putting in the time will always help you improve. If you can’t find a whole day, why not a lunch break at work? Small efforts done consistently lead to great results.

    Working on a local project

    Restrict Yourself

    Creativity is something people often believe thrives with options, but in honesty, having too many things to choose from can often dilute your vision and reduce the creativity within your images. Restrict yourself by focusing on a single subject for an extended period of time. Build a long term project in your garden or local nature reserve and keep returning to build upon your images.

    Working with primes

    Another option is to work with a single focal length or prime lens to explore how you can make the most of what you’ve got. If you don’t have a prime lens use a piece of gaffer tape to hold your zoom lens in position to stop the temptation of zooming in or out. These practices will enhance your skills when it comes to general shooting, as you will be able to quickly select and formulate the ways and ideas you want to shoot.

    Create a prime using gaffers tape

    Record

    In order to get the best out of the images you are taking and the skills you are learning, remember to record them. Working with a simple notebook or online workbook, evaluate the images you have taken for successes and failures, in order to cement the lessons in your mind and learn from your work.

    Sketchbook for taking notes

    Inspiration

    Inspiration is very important for your development as a photographer. Without constant inspiration it can be hard to formulate ideas and develop on past work. Staying inspired doesn’t just mean looking at other photographer’s work, as often over-saturaturation of a single medium can result in less creativity. So it’s better to take input from as wide a range of sources as possible.

    Galleries

    A traditional showcase of artwork, galleries are still a fantastic option for gaining some inspiration. The variety of work on show, from ancient works such as stone carvings and cave paintings, through to impressionism and modernism, really do offer a superb variety of visual stimuli. Often, to get the best out of them, attending a tour or showcase day can help, giving you the backstories of the work as well as explaining the techniques and mediums used. This knowledge will inform, and allow you to formulate your own processes when creating images in the field.

    Nature

    As a wildlife photographer, nature is a huge inspiration to me. Heading out on walks, be it with or without a camera, is a great way to soak up some atmosphere. Look at light and shape of the landscape, and pull in ideas for future images.

    Architecture

    Looking for line and shape

    Buildings offer fantastic inspiration for photography. Lines, form and shape are used to make striking structures and can be a excellent source of inspiration. Focus on looking for the way the shapes are used to form elegant structures or draw your eye to a pivotal point. Additionally, take note of the way shadows form, as this will help you imagine and anticipate lighting for future images.

    Online

    In the modern world the internet has a huge amount to offer, and with so many fantastic resources it is full of inspiration. Taking a look at photographers’ portfolios, or the feeds of 500px, Flickr, etc. offer superb images that can be the perfect inspiration for your own work. One thing to avoid is that of visual trends, copying styles just because they are popular. It is always worth noting that just because an image doesn’t have many Likes or Favourites” does not deny its worth as inspiration, as images will always mean different things to different people.

    In person

    A great way to find inspiration is to become part of a community. Heading to events in the photography world such as exhibitions or trade shows can provide a great way to meet like-minded people as well as see some excellent work. Also, think about looking for a local photography group or club. Many areas have these and they offer a great chance to meet up and discuss work and camera techniques with your peers, all the while helping you improve and develop your skills.

    Record (again)

    Just as above, it’s very important to also record your inspirations. Write down the names of artists and photographers you want to look up, and make notes on what you like and dislike about certain images and media. All of these thoughts and feelings are great to revisit when creating to help formulate and focus your own work. Remember to keep that notebook handy!

    Purpose

    Back Garden wildlife

    Creativity often needs purpose and so do your images.The most powerful images almost always have a purpose behind them, be it to tell stories, stir emotion, tempt us, or give us a glimpse into something we’ve never seen before. Images with purpose have greater strength.

    When wanting to improve your own images look for purpose within your shots. Tell stories through single images or start to work on documenting a larger idea through multiple images. Have the story in your head and shoot frames to help tell it pictorially. Stories don’t need to be huge photojournalist essays, instead start off by just showcasing the mundane, everyday occurrences.

    Training yourself to make powerful images of these situations will equip you with the necessary skills for more exciting opportunities in the future. Working on a local project, be it in your back garden or local community, means you can spend a great deal of time focused on your images as well as developing your story and vision.

    Always ask yourself the following;

    • Why am I creating this image?
    • What am I trying to show?
    • What are the key elements in this story?
    • How can I find a unique angle?

    These thoughts will help you work toward creating stronger images with purpose and meaning, leading to far more creative photography.

    Taking inspiration from architecture

    Output

    Art deserves to be shown and deciding how you are going to output your final work is a great way to focus your creativity. In the modern world, most images just end up on a hard drive, away from the light of day where no one can see them. With all the work and effort you are putting into them, they deserve more.

    In terms of being creative with your work, think about how it should best be shown. Often people lean toward online media, showcasing work through the likes of Flickr or Facebook, Although these are a great way of getting work out there, they can numb the creative and learning process somewhat.

    Printing your work

    Think about outputting to hard media, printing out your work as well as online platforms. There are loads of great ways to produce photo books, magazines and gallery style prints that will look far better and suit certain bodies of work far more. The creative process of learning to design a photo book, bring together a 12-part print collection, or design a magazine spread, will also be an excellent learning curve to help you when working on future projects.

    In addition, there is something to be said for holding a final piece of work in your hands. A finished print really is the ultimate moment for an image. Having passed through all of the creative stages from conception and execution, through to editing and final completion in your hands is a great feeling, and one every photographer deserves after finishing an image.

    Conclusion

    In order to produce more and more creative work it’s all about focusing on the process. The skills behind creating, the inspiration and purpose behind projects, the final results and how they are output. By taking time to think through these stages you can really focus your mind and produce refined work to be proud of, as well as constant develope your skills and grow as a photographer in the future.

    The post How to Improve Your Art – The Creative Process in Photography by Tom Mason appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Lighting 103: Greg Heisler on Light and Color

    Abstract: Chromatically complex light adds much more realism to your lit photos.

    Today’s Lighting 103 post features excerpts from a bar conversation with Greg Heisler. It's just as if we cornered him at a conference (which I did) and he agreed to have a drink and talk color (which he did).

    This is roadmap stuff. It's above and beyond the specific info he includes with each of the assignments in his book, 50 Portraits, the companion text to L103.Read more »
    Strobist

  • Why There are 6 Types of Lightroom Previews and How to Use Them

    Previews are an essential part of the Lightroom workflow. But with so many different types of Lightroom previews, it’s easy to get confused. For example, do you know the difference between minimal, standard and 1:1 previews? Or what a Smart Preview does? Or why 1:1 previews are useless in the Develop module?

    The differences are more than academic. The way you use previews makes a big difference to Lightroom’s speed and efficiency. If you want Lightroom to run at optimal speed, you need to build the right previews. Let’s take a look at how to do that.

    Lightroom Previews

    Why does Lightroom build previews?

    If you open a photo in Photoshop, there is no preview. You are looking at the photo itself. So why does Lightroom need previews? The answer lies in the fact that Photoshop and Lightroom edit photos in different ways.

    Photoshop is a pixel editor. It changes the pixels of your photo and saves those changes in the file. Lightroom is a parametric editor. It doesn’t change the original photo file in any way. Instead, it keeps a record of any changes made to the photo in the Catalog. As the original photo is unchanged, Lightroom needs to use previews to show you how your photos look after you have edited them.

    Let’s take a look at each of the different types of Lightroom previews.

    Library module previews

    There are several types of preview you can build in the Library module. Previews are used by Lightroom to display your photos in the Library module. They help you view, zoom, rate, and flag photos – all the organizational stuff you want to do in this section.

    Whenever you import photos into Lightroom it gives you the option of selecting the type of preview to build. There are four choices. The first two (Minimal and Embedded & Sidecar) are relevant if you want to import photos quickly and are happy with a low-resolution preview.

    Lightroom previews

    Minimal previews:

    These are the smallest previews possible. Minimal previews save space and time but don’t give you a high-quality Library module preview.

    Embedded & Sidecar previews:

    This option uses the preview built into the Raw file if there is one.

    Minimal and Embedded & Sidecar previews are temporary. If you choose either of these options Lightroom builds its own better quality previews as soon as it can. This slows down the browsing process in the Library module. For this reason, I only recommend selecting Minimal or Embedded & Sidecar previews when you need to import photos rapidly.

    The next two options are ones you are most likely to use. They give you good quality previews that you can use to view photos.

    Standard previews

    Builds a preview for viewing images in Loupe View, but without zooming in. You can set the size of standard previews in the Catalog Settings. The best option to pick is Auto. With Auto, Lightroom builds previews that match your monitor resolution.

    Lightroom takes longer to build Standard previews than it does to create Minimal or Embedded & Sidecar previews. But the benefit is that the Library module runs much faster.

    Lightroom previews

    The only problem with Standard previews is that they are not designed for zooming into your photos. When you zoom in, Lightroom has to build a 1:1 preview. So there’s a delay that slows the Library module down in displaying your image full size.

    1:1 previews

    The best quality previews of all are 1:1, but it’s the one that takes longest to build. This is a full-size preview that lets you zoom into your photos at 100% when looking at them in Loupe view. With 1:1 previews there is no delay when you zoom into a photo.

    The only drawback of 1:1 previews is that they take up a lot of hard drive space. Lightroom handles that by discarding 1:1 previews after a set amount of time. The default is 30 days, but you can change that in the Catalog settings if you need to.

    Lightroom previews

    Smart Previews

    Adobe introduced Smart Previews in Lightroom 5. A Smart Preview is a high-quality, highly compressed preview that measures 2540 pixels along the longest edge. Smart Previews are used by Lightroom CC to synchronize with Lightroom mobile and Lightroom web.

    The option to create Smart Previews is available in the Import window.

    Lightroom previews

    Smart Previews are different from the other Library module previews because they can also be used in the Develop module. The advantage of this is that you can develop photos using Smart Previews when the hard drive containing your original photo files isn’t connected to your hard drive.

    This feature lets you use Smart Previews to develop photos while you are traveling. All you need is a laptop, a copy of your Lightroom Catalog and the preview files containing Library module previews (1:1, standard, etc.) and Smart Previews. So you don’t have to take the hard drive containing the original photos and worry about losing it while on the road.

    If you’re a Lightroom CC subscriber Smart Previews also let you use Lightroom mobile and Lightroom web.

    Lightroom previews

    The Lightroom folder contains the Lightroom Catalog and the preview folders you need to run Lightroom on any computer.

    Smart previews save space and can be built later as well

    Earlier I said that Smart Previews are both highly compressed and high-quality. This sounds like a contradiction but it’s true. I don’t know how Adobe have done it but the result is that you can’t tell a Smart Preview apart from a full-size preview in terms of image quality. The only difference is that a Smart Preview is smaller.

    You can build Standard, 1:1, or Smart Previews at any time in the Library module by selecting the images and going to Library > Previews and selecting the preview type required. The option to build Minimal or Embedded & Sidecar previews only appears in the Import window.

    Lightroom previews

    Develop module previews

    When you switch from the Library module to the Develop module the preview Lightroom uses to display your photos changes. Lightroom renders high-quality previews that let you see the result of actions like adding sharpening, applying noise reduction, and retouching images.

    These previews are cached rather than saved in a preview file, otherwise, they would rapidly eat up most of your hard drive space.

    Creating 1:1 previews in the Library module makes no difference to the speed at which Lightroom renders previews in the Develop module. But if a Smart Preview exists for the photo Lightroom uses the Smart Preview instead of rendering a Develop module preview under one of two conditions.

    a. The hard drive containing the original photo file is disconnected from the computer.

    b. You have Lightroom CC 2015.7 or Lightroom 6.7 or later, the hard drive containing the original photo file is connected to the computer, and you have the Use Smart Previews instead of Original for image editing preference enabled in Preferences (see below). Note that if you zoom into 1:1 Lightroom stops using the Smart Preview and renders a full-size preview instead.

    Lightroom previews

    Smart Previews are smaller than full-size previews. That enables Lightroom to run faster when Smart Previews are used in the Develop module. The speed increase can be quite significant. If you don’t need to zoom into your photos at 100% magnification then the benefits are considerable.

    Conclusion

    Lightroom previews are somewhat confusing, especially for newcomers to the software. This is hardly surprising considering there are six types of them! So let’s keep things simple. These are my recommended previews to use.

    When you import images into Lightroom, choose either Standard or 1:1 previews. If you intend to zoom into your images while viewing them in Loupe view, you definitely want to pick 1:1 previews. Otherwise, pick Standard.

    If you’re a Lightroom CC subscriber and you want to view the images in Lightroom mobile or Lightroom web then tick the Build Smart Previews box. Do the same if you intend to use Smart Previews in the Develop module.

    Any questions? Let me know in the comments section below.

    If you’d like to learn more about Lightroom, then please check out my popular Mastering Lightroom ebooks.

    The post Why There are 6 Types of Lightroom Previews and How to Use Them by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People

    As a writer for Digital Photography School, one of the most frequently asked questions I receive from beginner and intermediate photographers is, “If I have to choose just ONE lens to buy right now, which one should I choose?” We’ve previously discussed the differences between a 24mm lens and a 50mm lens for photographing people, and in that same vein, it’s time for another lens showdown!

    lens photographing people

    In this article, we’ll be discussing the differences between an 85mm and a 50mm lens for photographing people. Once again, I’ll walk you through several sets of similar images taken with each lens so that you can easily see the differences between the two. Hopefully, you can walk away with a better understanding of which lens might be the best upgrade for you.

    To keep things consistent, all images in this article were taken with a Canon 60D, and either the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens or the Canon 85mm f/1.8 lens. The Canon 60D is an APS-C sensor (cropped sensor) camera, so in order to determine the functioning focal length of these lenses on this camera, multiply the lens focal length by 1.6 (multiply by 1.5 if you use Nikon). So on a cropped sensor camera, the 50mm lens functions roughly as an 80mm lens, and the 50mm lens functions as a 136mm lens.

    1. Differences in Depth of Field

    lens photographing people

    This image was taken with Canon 85mm lens at f/1.8.

    One of the biggest differences between the 85mm lens and the 50mm lens is the distance that you’ll need to stand from your subject. With the 85mm lens, the minimum focusing distance is 2.8 ft, and with the 50mm lens, the minimum focusing distance is 1.15 ft.

    This means that in general, you will be standing further away from your subject with the 85mm lens, than you will with the 50mm. In turn, this decreases the depth of field, which means that images shot with the 85mm lens tend to have much blurrier bokeh than images shot with the 50mm lens, even when using the same aperture.

    lens photographing people

    This image was taken with a Canon 50mm at f/1.8.

    You can see the difference clearly in the cherry blossoms in the background of the two images above, both of which were shot at f/1.8. The cherry blossoms are fairly well blurred in both images, but the shape of the blossoms is more defined in the image taken with the 50mm lens, and the blossoms are significantly more blurred and creamy in the image that with the 85mm lens.

    Of course, everyone has a different preference when it comes to bokeh. Some prefer the more uniform creaminess that the 85mm lens offers, while other photographers prefer to have a little more definition in the background.

    lens photographing people

    Left: 85mm lens | Right: 50mm lens.

    You may even find that you prefer different approaches in different applications! For example, I usually favor the more uniform bokeh of the 85mm lens. However, when I’m photographing in the grass, I prefer the bit of texture which the 50mm lens provides (see the examples above).

    This is purely a matter of preference, so start making mental notes about which type of images you tend to prefer when you look at other photographers’ work. If you find that you are always drawn to the creamier texture, then the 85mm lens may be a better fit for you. If you prefer a bit more texture in the background, you may want to consider the 50mm lens instead.

    2. Differences in Framing

    lens photographing people

    This image was taken with 50mm lens.

    In addition, spend some time thinking about the content of your backdrops. Using an 85mm lens will result in an image that is more closely framed on your subject. On the other hand, shooting with the 50mm lens will result in an image that includes more of the background (though not nearly as much as shooting with the Canon 24mm lens).

    Do you happily hike up to the top of a mountain for a photo session? You might want to consider the 50mm lens in order to more fully capture the trees and vistas in the background behind your portrait subject(s).

    lens photographing people

    This image was taken in exactly the same place as the previous one, only using the 85mm lens instead of the 50mm.

    On the other hand, do you often find yourself trying to disguise the background in your images? Do you shoot on location with backgrounds that are sometimes out of your control and/or unpredictable?  In that case, you may want to consider the 85mm lens.

    When you combine the decreased depth of field of the 85mm lens with the closer framing of your subject, the 85mm lens is stellar at creating beautiful portrait images at almost any location.

    3. Differences in Shooting Distance

    lens photographing people

    This image was taken with 50mm lens.

    Remember when I said that when you’re using an 85mm lens you’ll be standing further away from your subject than you would be using a 50mm lens? Here’s another reason why that’s important to know, I almost never use my 85mm lens inside our home.

    Our house is just over 1,000 square feet, and depending on the room, sometimes I physically cannot back up far enough to use my 85mm lens. Aside from official photography business, it’s important to me to be able to capture little day to day moments of our family, and so having a fast lens that I can use indoors is a must-have for me.

    As much as I love my 85mm lens, it just isn’t a great fit for that purpose given the size of our home. Your mileage may vary.

    Lens photographing people

    This image was taken with 85mm lens.

    On the other hand, when we’re outdoors I often prefer my 85mm lens. In that situation, standing further away from my subjects is a good thing. I can let my kids play and have fun without being all up in their business. Having a bit more space between them and the camera means that they’re able to relax more easily, which in turn leads to more genuine expressions and candid smiles.

    Conclusion

    As you can see, both of these lenses are great for capturing portrait-style images of people – I personally keep both in my camera bag and use them with near equal frequency.

    That said, if you’re only able to purchase one lens right now, both lenses have situations in which they outshine the other, so it’s important for you to think realistically about your preferences and the way you’ll use a portrait lens most often in order to get the most bang for your buck!

    If you have one of these lenses – which do you use the most for people photography?

    The post Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People by Meredith Clark appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Organically Grow Your Instagram Following

    Instagram is unquestionably one of the biggest social networks today, and it’s undeniable that every photographer should have a presence here. But if you’re like me, you’ve probably struggled to amass a following beyond your existing friends and colleagues. So how do you truly (and organically) grow your Instagram following? Here are some tips.

    Instagram followers

    1. Keep your Instagram posts consistent

    When I first started my personal Instagram account, my posts were all across the board. From pictures of my breakfast to photos of a recent vacation or cute dogs I met in my neighborhood, there was no consistency to my Instagram feed. My followers didn’t know what to expect when they looked at my feed, and thus there was no incentive to follow me. As a result, I decided to revamp my approach to Instagram.

    My personal Instagram shifted to focus purely on food, restaurant, and event photos as an extension of my professional photography portfolio. Since making this shift, my personal account has seen a drastic jump in followers, as well as interaction with my individual posts. I’ve also built a community of food, restaurant, and event Instagrammers, many of whom I’ve even met in real life at InstaMeets (more on this below). As for my travel photos, those now live on a brand new Instagram account that I’m still growing from scratch. While overall followers for this account are still minimal, interaction with posts has steadily gone up using the rest of the tactics below.

    How to Organically Grow Your Instagram Following

    The lesson here is that keeping your posts consistent in either style or subject matter will give people a clear incentive to follow you. People will follow you when they’re interested in the photos that you post, so you must give them an idea of what to expect, and when to expect it. Make sure you post at least several times a week, or maybe even more often if you can come up with enough content or have a larger following. Also pick one or two themes to focus your photos on, for example, food photography or travel photography. This will help you pick out relevant hashtags to post.

    Use Add Accounts if you have multiple accounts

    Many Instagram users are electing to have at least two separate accounts; one for their personal posts, and one for their more professional, targeted posts. If you go this route, Instagram has made it easy to switch from viewing and posting from multiple accounts via Options > Add Accounts. You’ll have to sign in to your second account; afterward, a dropdown menu will appear under your profile name and you can flip between your accounts.

    Instagram Add Account

    2. Hashtags are key

    In order to have your posts be seen on any social network, you have to understand how new content gets discovered. For Instagram, it’s all about hashtags. But don’t just invent hashtags out of thin air. Instead, you leverage existing hashtags that are both relevant to the photo you are posting, and hashtags that have been used by other people. Note that Instagram allows a maximum of 30 hashtags per post, so add as many as you can!

    So where do you find relevant hashtags to use? Here are some ideas.

    Websta – Top 100 popular hashtags

    Check out the Top 100 Popular Hashtags section on Websta. This will give you a sense of how popular certain hashtags are. The more photos or posts that are tagged with these popular hashtags, the more eyeballs are scanning them, meaning there’s a higher chance of gaining more likes for your content. However, you’re also more likely to get spam comments on your posts, which is why you should not only use super popular hashtags but also drill down into more niche hashtags, per the steps below.

    Find hashtags on leading Instagram profiles

    As mentioned above, it’s important to focus your Instagram posts around specific topics, such as food or travel. Not only does it help you figure out what types of photos to post, but it also gives you ideas of other Instagram profiles to emulate. For example, an account focusing on food photography might look up Instagram handles for leading food publications such as Bon Appetit and Food and Wine. Follow these handles and also study their Instagram posts. Do they use a bunch of hashtags? Consider using them too. And most importantly, check to see if they offer a hashtag that you can use for a chance to be featured on their account. If so, start using it! More details on leveraging Instagram hubs over in

    For example, an account focusing on food photography might look up Instagram handles for leading food publications such as Bon Appetit and Food and Wine. Follow these handles and also study their Instagram posts. Do they use a bunch of hashtags? Consider using them too. Most importantly, check to see if they offer a hashtag that you can use for a chance to be featured on their account. If so, start using it! More details on leveraging Instagram hubs over in this article.

    Instagram followers Instagram hashtags

    Pro tip

    It’s totally fine to reuse the same hashtags on your posts, as long as they are relevant to each photo. But instead of typing in your hashtags over and over, consider keeping them in your note-taking app (ie. Evernote) and simply copying and pasting them into your new Instagram posts. Yes, it’s time-consuming, but it is much more efficient than typing in your 30 hashtags to every new post.

    3. It’s all about engagement

    When it comes to Instagram, you have to give a little in order to receive. While experimenting with my brand new Instagram account, I noticed that simply adding hashtags to my photos simply wasn’t enough. My very first Instagram posts had a bunch of hashtags, but only gained 6 or 7 likes. Suddenly, my third post jumped up to 39 likes. What changed?

    Instagram likes

    One of my first Instagram photos, posted before doing any interaction.

    Immediately after I published that post, I spent five minutes scrolling through my Instagram feed and interacting with as many posts that caught my eye. The interaction was simple in the form of adding likes and a quick comment or emoji. This not only gave me new ideas of accounts to follow but also seemed to bring more people to my profile since the number of likes on my posts immediately skyrocketed. The bottom line; be an active Instagrammer, not only by adding new posts, but also interacting with your followers or new people you discover.

    Instagram

    Another Instagram photo, posted the same week with many more likes thanks to interaction with other Instagrammers.

    4. Attend InstaMeets and Meetups

    The absolute best way to organically grow your Instagram followers is to meet them in real life. Thankfully, Instagram has picked up on this and has a section on their site where you can find local InstaMeets or even coordinate one for your area. Also, consider checking Meetup for local Instagram meetups or photography clubs that might hold an Instagram-specific meetup. Attend these events to connect with local photographers, and be sure to follow each other on Instagram and interact with each others’ posts.

    5. Cross post on other platforms

    One of the best ways to get more viewers (and hopefully follower) of your Instagram account is to put it in front of as many people as possible. There are many ways to do this. Here are a few ideas:

    Cross publish to other social networks

    When you make a new Instagram post, cross-publish it to other networks such as Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr or Flickr by selecting the respective icons when you create a new post.

    Instagram Linked Accounts

    Setting up linked accounts on Instagram.

    Instagram

    Add an Instagram widget to your website or blog

    If you have a website or blog, there’s a good chance that you attract brand new visitors via search engines on occasion. Make it easy for these website visitors to connect with you on social media platforms like Instagram by embedding your feed into your website. For websites hosted on WordPress, there are many free Instagram embed plugins that can do this for you.

    Instagram

    Add Instagram to your email signature

    Whenever you send emails, there’s an opportunity to get your Instagram in front of the email recipient via your email signature. Use a service such as WiseStamp to include a link to your profile or even embed your feed into your email signature. Just make sure that your Instagram feed is full of images and content that you don’t mind being seen by people you email.

    Instagram feed

    6. Try out Instagram’s newest features

    Like most other social networks, Instagram occasionally rolls out new features. While not all of these features may stick around or be worth your while, you could certainly experiment with them to see if they can work to your advantage. At the time of this writing, here are two brand new features worth trying out.

    Instagram Stories

    Instagram Stories is like Snapchat where you can post a photo or video that can only be viewed for a limited period of time before it is deleted. What’s the point? For professional photographers or brands, Instagram Stories can be great for posting behind-the-scenes shots from photo shoots. They’re also great for posting mediocre photos that might not be worth permanently adding to your Instagram portfolio but assist in building your brand’s personality.

    Instagram stories

    Multiple Photos

    Finally, Instagram is allowing users to post up multiple photos at a time. If you’re thinking, “Wait, Instagram already lets me do this with the Layout By Instagram Collage app,” this is slightly different. Instead of displaying photos in a collage format, you can view up to ten photos in a slideshow This gives you greater flexibility in publishing longer form visual stories and not having to choose just one photo out of a batch.

    Instagram collage app

    Posting multiple photos via Layouts by Instagram Collage app.

    Instagram multiple photos

    Posting multiple photos via the multiple photos feature.

    Bonus Tip: Enable your Instagram Business Profile

    Another new feature Instagram recently rolled out is the ability to convert your personal account into a business profile. Currently, this feature is only enabled if you link your Facebook page to your Instagram account; after doing so, a button should appear at the top of your profile asking if you want to switch to a business profile.

    Why switch to a business profile? Well, you’ll get some enhanced features that can help you craft a better Instagram strategy such as:

    • The ability to add custom buttons to your Instagram profile that allow visitors to go directly to your website, call you, or find directions to your location.
    • Get Insights or stats on your most popular Instagram posts, total impressions, and basic demographics about your followers.

    Instagram business profile

    In Conclusion

    Organically growing your Instagram followers isn’t as difficult as it may seem. But don’t expect it to happen overnight. Craft a consistent, long-term approach that incorporates some of the tips above and your Instagram interaction will slowly but surely start to increase!

    Do you have any tips for growing your Instagram following? Please share them in the comments below! Follow dPS on Instagram here too.

    The post How to Organically Grow Your Instagram Following by Suzi Pratt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    Location scouting to find the ideal spot is just as important as what camera settings you use. Don’t miss this important first step in order to get your perfect sunset photograph.

    Scouting is part of the photography process

    “Hi. Are you a photographer?” a young voice called to me.

    “Hello,” I turned back and replied to a smiling and inquisitive face. It was a little girl with a point-and-shoot camera.

    “Yes, I am,” I nodded in affirmation. The backpack and tripod were a dead giveaway.

    “This is so beautiful,” and after a moment of watching me, “Aren’t you going to take a photo?” the girl continued, as she scrutinized me searching for something in between granite boulders on the beach but not taking photos.

    location scouting

    Composing for the water channel.

    Mother Nature had put on a mesmerizing show of stormy clouds and light at Camps Bay Beach in Cape Town, and it seemed that almost everyone had their cameras and cell phones pointed towards the far horizon. Our brains are programmed to do routine work subconsciously, like changing gears of a car.

    For a landscape photographer, scouting for a good location is part of the job. It can be a challenging, albeit fun routine, and I was doing exactly that an hour prior to what was going to be a stunning sunset. In fact, I find it quite therapeutic to search for a good spot. You pay attention to details and discover small wonders in the process.

    Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    Lightning strike while location scouting.

    The question from the little girl triggered a lot of possible answers in my mind. “I am trying to make a good photo,” could be one of the answers, but it would have confused her even more, so I told her that I was looking for an interesting pattern of rocks for my sunset shot. My quest resumed after she and I finished chatting.

    Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    Nature’s wonder.

    What makes a good photo?

    In my journey of landscape photography thus far, I have learned that the main characteristics to look for are good light and composition. After you find these, you need good camera settings and technique to capture the moment.

    What can you do to take a better photo?

    The light is not within your control. But you need to gain knowledge of the terrain, keep an eye on the weather and clouds, and possibly go around dawn or dusk to get softer colors and light.

    The choice of composition is yours based on your own style and preferences. As a landscape photographer, you need to have an aesthetic sense that attracts viewers to your images, a style that will become your own. Composition is a topic in itself, but obviously, the key is choosing a location that provides good subjects (e.g. a waterfall, mountains, icebergs, boulders, trees, rocks) or something that appeals and possibly tells a story.

    Camera settings and techniques come with experience. Do not compare it to the value of the equipment you own – the simplest equipment can take a great shot. The only way you can get better is by taking photos, learning more about the basics, and correcting yourself after making mistakes. If you can invest in the best camera, filters, tripods and other accessories, then that’s a bonus. Whatever equipment you own, you must know its full capabilities and how to make good use of it.

    Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    Camp Bay boulders.

    How did I make a good photo that day?

    The day I met the girl, I was at one of the most picturesque beaches in the world, Camps Bay. The location and subjects were there, but I still had to work to narrow down my composition for the sunset.

    I needed to make decisions such as; Am I going to set up on the sand or in between the boulders? Should I go on the mossy rocks or stand in the water?

    The light, as per my assessment of the weather forecast, was going to be perfect if the clouds allowed the sun to peek through the horizon. I brought the lens and camera of my choice, filters, shutter release, and tripod to take photos in low light.

    After some exploration, I settled upon a water channel between two massive granite boulders. My test shot looked promising. My hunt for an agreeable foreground was finally over. The water would make interesting patterns through that small ally, and the leaden clouds and orange sun would be my background.

    Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    Test shot with minimal post-processing.

    I took another test shot and soon realized that the sun was going to be behind the boulder on the left, and I would miss it in my photo as I had miscalculated the angle. I re-evaluated the scene and adjusted my perspective to align the composition with the drowning sun. Careful use of camera settings, a polarizer, and a soft graduated ND filter yielded a result that I was satisfied with. Mission accomplished!

    Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    The water channel.

    Conclusion and video

    As you will see in the video (and image) below, I took an additional photo of this channel from a higher vantage point as well.

    So the next time you see a landscape photographer rushing to and fro on a location, you must know that he is busy making a photo, as pressing the shutter button is only the last part of the job!

    I hope these tips are helpful. Please share your questions and comments below.

    Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph

    Water channel from above.

    The post Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph by Mujahid Urrehman appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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