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How to Use Natural Light for Macro Photography

19 Dec

I have to admit that the sun is one of those things in life that intrigues and fascinates me. When I was a kid I remember laying on the floor looking at the sky, watching the sun changing its position during the day and casting different types of shadows and reflections.

Natural light is the term we use in photography to refer the light of the sun. This, as opposed to artificial light that is usually created by the transformation of electricity into light through the use of light bulbs.

Even though natural light has the sun as a starting point, it can look very different depending on many factors. Time of the day, the season of the year, weather conditions and various other circumstances may influence the way sunlight reaches the earth and can be captured in a photograph.

As photographers, it is our job to understand the way it works and make the best out of it. In this article, we will explore the way natural light works and how to apply it in macro photography work. Let’s start with the basics.

Quality of Light

Quality of light is a term usually used by photographers to refer to the “hardness” or “softness” of a light source.

This quality is determined by the way a given light source produces the transitions between the highlights and shadows.
Soft light produces smooth transitions, while hard light produces abrupt transitions between the tonal areas, therefore giving the image less or more contrast.

The basic principle is: The larger the light source, the softer the light.

This means that sunlight gets softer closer to sunrise and sunset and harder closer to midday, due to the changes of distance between the sun and the earth during the day (and the angle at which it enters the atmosphere).

Lighting macro photography 01

Left: Image photographed at sunrise. Right: Image photographed at midday.

Direction of Light

The direction of light refers to the position of the light relative to the subject. This positioning determines the width of the shadows it casts creating the sense of texture and shape.

The basic principle is: Shadows fall to the opposite side of where the light is located.

Frontal lighting has a flattening effect on most subjects as it casts the shadows on their back, removing the three-dimensional effect.

Side lighting accentuates the texture of the subject as it casts side shadows creating the sense of dimension and volume.

Backlighting creates an outlining effect on the subject separating it from the background, making it more dominant.

Lighting macro photography 02

Color and Contrast

The color of light, or white balance, and contrast in natural light is mainly affected by two factors:

#1 – Time of day affects the position of the sun. The closer the sun is to the horizon, the less contrast and warmer is the light. This phenomenon happens mainly because sunlight has to cross more atmosphere which gives less contrast and filters the blue light resulting in a yellowish tonal effect. Closer to high noon the higher the contrast and less color variation it has because the sun is further away from the horizon.

#2 – Weather which affects contrast and color of light mainly by the presence of clouds which act like a huge diffuser resulting in less contrast and a blue color cast.

Lighting macro photography 03

Diffused and Reflected Light

Even though you cannot control sunlight, it doesn’t mean you cannot modify it to suit your needs.

Diffused light is achieved by sending a beam of light thru a semi-transparent surface resulting in lower contrast and feathered edge shadows.

Reflected light is achieved by bouncing the incident light off a reflecting surface onto the subject resulting in a change of direction and intensity of the light.

Lighting macro photography 04

Tools

Basic tools like reflectors and diffusers are fundamental resources for natural light photography. Even though there are a lot of macro photography dedicated gear options available, if you don’t want to spend your hard earned money on them, you can just build your own with things you probably already have around the house.

Tracing or baking paper and aluminum foil are great materials for building custom diffusers and reflectors. Just cut them to the size and shape that best suits your needs.

Lighting macro photography 05

Light diffusion materials range from nylon to translucent paper, plastic or acrylic. Here is a good example of a macro shot of a quarter dollar coin with direct side natural light and with tracing paper sheet diffuser.

Lighting macro photography 06

Left: Direct sunlight from the side. Right: Diffused sunlight from the side.

In this particular situation, the diffuser acted as a light softener and a reflector creating the highlights that give volume to the coin engraving.

Adding more light

Even though sunlight is only one light spot it is easy to simulate additional spots with reflectors. Take a look at this example of an old pocket watch photographed with side natural sunlight.

Lighting macro photography 07

Even though the light on the watch’s face is good, the rest just fades to black, making it flat. Another light spot would really help to get the right image volume. So we will add a mirror reflection on the opposite side of the main light for better definition of the object.

Lighting macro photography 08

And here is the final image

Lighting macro photography 09

That small spot reflection from the mirror on the left side of the image was enough to create the right volume, and give the image depth and ambiance.

These kinds of reflections can be created with different types of materials. A mirror like the one used in this image gives a narrow and intense reflection. While materials like aluminum foil create a broader reflection that can be scattered if you crumple the foil making it reflect light in different directions.

White surfaces like cardboard are also good reflection materials, giving a softer and less contrasted reflection than aluminum foil.

Background Separation

In photography, there are many factors that can influence background separation; focal length, aperture, distance between the subject and its background and lighting.

But because macro photography is such a specific subject that happens in a very small area, all these factors become critical as every small change translates to a big difference in the captured image. Because of the highly enlarged capture area, it becomes very difficult to use a camera handheld. A tripod and a shutter release cable are a must have for macro photographers.

The “Boogie Man” in the macro photography world is without a doubt the depth of field. In most macro circumstances the focus area is so shallow that a minimal change in the distance to the subject or aperture results in failure. This shallow depth of field can also be used as an advantage point to create background separation.

Both of these images were photographed in the same position with a 100mm macro lens. The difference here is the depth of field created by different apertures.

Lighting macro photography 10

Left: f/32. Right: f/11.

The image on the left gets confused and overcrowded with information. While the image on the right gets separation between the main focus subject and the background making it simpler and more appealing to the eye.

Another way to get background separation is to use the position of the light to create separation.

Lighting macro photography 11

This image was done using a simple and monochromatic background and backlighting which creates overexposure in the background, making the main subject stand out.

Mixing Natural Light with Flash

Sometimes natural light just isn’t enough for the image you want to create. Mixing natural light with flash is not an easy job, as flash usually overpowers natural light, giving the image an artificial look.

However, mixing the right amount of these too light sources can give some interesting results.

Lighting macro photography 12

This image was created with the use of a ring flash that created the specular highlights in the water drops, and a longer shutter speed that allowed the background to capture some natural light.

This result could only be achieved by the mix of these two light sources. Using only natural light would result in dull water drops without the flash sparkle, and artificial light background if only the ring flash had been used.

Mixing Natural Light with LEDs

In the past few years, LED light has become a valuable resource for photographers that want to use continuous light but don’t want to deal with incandescent or fluorescent bulbs and all their associated problems.

LEDs are very energy efficient as they convert about 80% of the energy they use into light, while incandescent only converts about 20%. They also don’t generate much heat and are available in many colors.

Lighting macro photography 13

This image was created with the mix of natural morning light shining through a window, and a simple and inexpensive cool white LED pocket flashlight.

The overall look was created by the use of a light painting technique with a 2-second exposure. Moving the flashlight on the top of the table created the texture and blue cast, while the diffused backlight from the window illuminated the food.

Final Thoughts

I guess light in photography is not what you start with, but what you make out of it. Once you know the rules, you can adapt yourself to what you’ve got and transform a bad lighting situation into great images.

Don’t be afraid to experiment, as trial and error is the best way to success. Use and abuse natural light, after all, it is free and is for sure different every day!

The post How to Use Natural Light for Macro Photography by Ivo Guimaraes appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

18 Dec

“Fine Art” when it comes to travel photography is not an often used term and few photographers define themselves as “fine art travel photographers”. Genre definitions in photography can be highly subjective, and the fine art line can be very fine indeed. For me as a travel shooter, the fine art approach is just a natural extension of who I am and how I see and share the world through my images.

Vietnam is one of my favorite places to photograph, not only because of its remarkable aesthetic qualities but because of my great fondness for its people. And so when asked talk about my photography through the fine art lens, using Vietnam as the focal point was an easy choice to make.

Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography - Vietnam rice terraces

Flower H’mong mother and daughter walking a rice terrace berm in Mu Cang Chai, northern Vietnam. Exposure settings: f/4, 1/2000th, ISO 400, 70mm lens.

fishermen resting on Boats - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

Fishermen resting. Shot from a bridge near Lang Co Bay. Exposure settings: f/8, 1/320th, ISO 800, 56mm lens.

The Fine Art of Travel Photography – People and Landscapes

Fine art photography, at least the way I see it, is about focusing on a specific style or look that reoccurs in every image with a goal to create aesthetically pleasing and engaging work.

Fine art travel photography implies that each travel-themed photo is of a very high artistic standard with consistent consideration to an effective composition, use of tonal range (lights and darks), and a balanced or focused color scheme throughout the photo.

Personally, I use natural light, and again, approach a photo to be a work of art. The goal is to create a visually striking image that looks similar to what a painter might have created, while still also looking completely like a photograph.

Fishermen in Halong Bay - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

Fishing amidst the thousands of karst limestone formations of fabled Ha Long Bay. Exposure settings: f/9, 1/200th, ISO 800, 35mm lens.

Fishermen Ballet - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

Four fishermen raise their nets on the Perfume River in Hue, central coastal Vietnam. Exposure settings: f/11, 1/160th, ISO 800, 30mm lens.

Showcase the people and culture

I aim to do this while still faithfully representing a country’s culture, with the goal to accurately, if ideally, portray the personality and lives of the people within the photos. I have always been most interested in the artistic side of travel photography, and less so in the traditional or documentary approach.

That said, I can see myself taking on more singularly focused projects in the future, where I can apply my artistic sense to the challenges of documentary storytelling within the travel space.

Vietnamese Monk - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

A Khmer-Vietnamese monk daydreams at his monastery window in the Meklong Delta region. Exposure settings: f/4, 1/125th, ISO 640, 40mm lens.

Set your intention of making art

Although it may seem obvious, I think it’s critically important when adopting the fine art style to have the intention of making art throughout the process – from preparation to post-production. I take this mindset into the field and shoot a variety of subjects in various ways.

Portraiture is my first love, but I also enjoy landscape, wildlife, and cultural documentary photography. The purpose is to showcase scenes of life and culture for others to observe and enjoy. And of course I enjoy it as well, or I wouldn’t be doing it!

Playing in the River - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

Ladies from the Cham ethnic group in Phan Rang having their own water festival. Exposure settings: f/36, 1/15th, ISO 400, 90mm lens.

Lady in Conical Hat - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

Vietnamese lady wearing the traditional white “Ao Dai” and Non La (conical hat), Saigon. Exposure settings: f/4, 1/125th, ISO 640, 70mm lens.

Have a vision and shoot with a purpose

In each work, I try to have a vision and understand what the photo will be about and how it will look in my mind before I take it. There is nothing in the frame that shouldn’t be there – everything included serves a purpose.

I also like to look for patterns in the scenes and feature these in the composition. Careful composition allows for clean backgrounds, no unnecessary distractions from the subject, and a clear focal point that is immediately identifiable against a complementary background that helps to tell the story or set the mood for the piece.

Below is some insight into how I approached photographing some of my favorite Vietnam images taken over the last few years.

Forever in Love

Forever in Love - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

“Forever in Love” – A loving couple in Hoi An share a moment of joy and happiness together in their garden as the sun sets. At the time of photography, they had been married for 66 years. Exposure settings: f/7.1, 1/200th, ISO 500, 50mm lens.

I met a fellow travel photographer who now resides in Vietnam, Réhahn Croquevielle, and he generously invited to show me around his hometown of Hoi An. I was lucky to meet a lovely old couple who live in his village. When I met them they were smiling widely and happy be photographed by us.

To take this photo, I first observed the direction of light. Then I made sure to position them in front of the setting sunlight so their faces would be bright and the details on their skin well exposed.

I also had to consider the background and overall scene, and I found an area near one of their vegetable patches which was clean (consistent colors and even patterns without clutter) while also providing context and a backstory for the couple. So I asked them to sit there. They found this all very funny and were laughing constantly as we kept the mood light and fun, which I think is important to help make subjects enjoy a portrait session.

Interesting subject matter is the most important element to a successful photograph, in my opinion, followed by good composition and lighting. But a background that complements and doesn’t distract from the focal point is also crucial for a powerful photograph, and perhaps too often overlooked.

Playing in a Sea of Fishing Nets

Playing in a Sea of Fishing Nets - Playing in a Sea of Fishing Nets

A happy boy playing in a blue sea of fishing nets in the Mekong Delta region of southern Vietnam. Exposure settings: f/8, 1/250th, ISO 500, 24mm lens.

I was in search of a workshop where fishing nets are made by hand in the Mekong Delta region of Vietnam. When I arrived, I noticed a boy and his friends were curious about my presence and wanted to meet me and help out if they could. They led me to the net weaving shop, which was a large open-ended structure with a corrugated tin roof.

Inside were seated ladies spread about busily creating these nets. I was immediately struck by the blue color and knew it would be very photogenic, but it was important to get the right light to make them come to life. I noticed all the ladies were in shaded, darker areas where the light wasn’t strong enough. There was an area that was close to an opening in the rooftop, under a natural skylight. I saw that the light was good there, but without a human subject the photo wouldn’t be so interesting.

Since I had created a rapport with the boy and his friends and they were still hanging around, I encouraged them to play in the fishing nets. Demonstrating myself, I ran and jumped into the nets, making everyone laugh, and the kids started to do the same themselves. I captured this photo knowing that the frame had to be filled with the blue fishing nets to bring attention to the boy. It’s his genuine smile and action that makes this photo all the more interesting and enjoyable to view.

Patterns on the Streets of Hanoi

Patterns on the Streets of Hanoi - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

A busy street scene in Hanoi photographed from a bridge on a rainy morning. Exposure settings: f/14, 1/40th, ISO 1250, 35mm lens.

It was raining one morning that I was to be exploring the city of Hanoi, which could have been considered a problem for photography. I went to the Long Bien Bridge after visiting a nearby market and observed the traffic passing by underneath me. I saw the potential for a really interesting pattern of cyclists with the high volume of motorbike traffic and the occasional bicycle. The rain had stopped, but the wet roads were creating reflections which would ultimately be beneficial and make for more dynamic lighting in the picture.

I waited a long time and photographed many combinations and patterns of commuters. I felt it was important to have an interesting focal point that was different from the rest of the scene. That was either going to be a person walking across the road or riding a bicycle amongst the sea of cars and other traffic.

I decided to use a slightly slower shutter speed to blur the traffic and capture the human subject sharper than the surroundings. It took a lot of patience and time on the bridge to finally capture an interesting pattern. It was fun to find the art in simple, everyday life.

Old Man with a Lute

Old Man with Lute - Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography

Exposure settings: f/4, 1/160th, ISO 1000, 70mm lens.

I met this old man in the small idyllic village of Ninh Binh where he was walking by a lake. When he learned that I would like to make his portrait, he invited me into his home close by. We drank some tea and I spent some time together with his family.

Before I photograph someone, I always look around the scene and try to find the right place where I will take their picture, depending on the lighting and the background. I noticed near a window there was strong natural light coming into his otherwise dark home, and I placed a chair in this spot for him to sit. There was enough light on the man to not require a tripod in this position.

I noticed an old lute hanging on the wall. I found out that it was his and he could play, so I asked if he could show me. As he played, I took some pictures, but I noticed that the light would be stronger on his face, which is the main focal point if he were looking out the window. The breeze from the window blew his beard gently to one side, creating some movement in this portrait of an interesting, old and very friendly Vietnamese man who I was privileged to meet and photograph.

Here are a few more example images of my fine art travel photography.

Fisherman at Sunrise

Girl with Blue Eyes

Lady with Fan

Mekong Breakfast

Running and Playing

Salt Harvesters

 

The post Putting the Fine Art into Travel Photography by David Lazar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

18 Dec

I live in London and it’s a pretty big city with an array of location choices when it comes to portrait photography. There are beautiful parks, many are vast and rolling, dotted around the city; you almost feel like the country is never more than an hour away. There are canals and rivers with boats and ships within easy reach. There are hilltops offering astounding views of the rising skyline and various parts of the city. And of course, there’s architecture that’s so impressive weaving itself across the city, the fabric of London life with a culturally diverse population traversing the criss-cross of alleys and roads. It’s a fast and busy place.

Some of my couples prefer such busy locations that remind them of the hustle and bustle of the place or of icons and landmarks that they love. Here are 5 tips for you on how to photograph a portrait while walking through a busy city. Embrace the buzz of activity, the age-old structures and new glass skyscrapers that loom over you as you go about your daily business of life, work, and play.

#1 Scout out the location and look for pockets of photo spots

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

Communicate with your portrait clients and give them some location ideas and options from which they can choose. Get them involved in the process as this helps them get excited, look forward to the photoshoot and own it too!

This is also a good opportunity to discuss outfits, as clothing is really important to the overall look and feel of the images. For this photoshoot, we had an area in mind, but with two very different locations in terms of ambiance and style.

Originally the couple wanted an old ruined church which has stunning walls and old architecture and some greenery. This also gave a really cozy country feel, soft light, and almost enchanting ambiance. However, they had already decided on their outfits and had bought them specifically. I felt that these outfits would work better in a fun city walk photoshoot rather than the old church ruins.

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

Match the location to the subjects

Just a stone’s throw away was the Leadenhall Market. It is built-up, old, colorful, busy and with a very city-feel, yet smart too. I suggested to them this would be the perfect location and after thinking about it they agreed. The forecast was also rainy and the market is a covered area so that was a good option for shelter.

The main idea was to walk the streets in this part of town and find pockets of photo spots that appealed to them. I know the area well as I shoot quite a few weddings in the city, so I was able to lead them to areas where I thought there were interesting spots to make portraits.

It’s a nice experience walking the streets, being part of the everyday goings-on, the mundane and the special alike.

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

We were also specifically on the lookout for British icons and landmarks as the couple was visiting from America. So we asked Waterstones, a British book retailer if we could take some pictures inside. They agreed. This leads me on nicely to my next tip…

#2 Incorporate icons and landmarks

We chose boutique shops and food stops that were traditional and well-known in the area and used their shop windows as backdrops. Incidentally, the guy’s name is Tom and we passed this quaint Bar called Old Tom’s Bar – just a perfect location for him.

It’s important that you know a little about what your couple likes so you keep your eyes peeled for anything that appeals to them. In this case, Tom is English and he likes his beer so we stopped by the Tavern for a drink!

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

Get permission

There are places where it would be wise for you to ask permission first before going in for some photos. Usually, the shopkeepers are helpful and allow you to do so if you are quiet, non-disruptive and quick. However, others refuse and that is perfectly fine – don’t take it personally.

In the market, there was a lady shining shoes. She had a traditional shoe-shine set-up which would have been perfect for some photos, but she refused consent so we didn’t push. Other places are public and open and you can take snaps, just like any tourist would, to your heart’s content. The spot on the left is one such place. The photo on the right was taken from across the road, a fair distance to the building as permission is needed if you go too close!

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

#3 Leverage the busy-ness

There is just no getting away from people on crowded, busy streets. Often, it’s a waiting and asking game. You either wait for people to walk past and clear your space, or you ask them to move away. Again, politely and with great gratitude, if they happily oblige.

You can leverage this busy-ness by incorporating motion into your images such as this one below. It could take several attempts to get it right as this can be a very difficult setup with no planning ahead or anticipation of what is to come.

Of course, if things don’t go to plan in shots such as this, there is always Photoshop!

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

Adding motion with a long exposure and blurred moving objects can add a sense of the hustle and bustle of the city to your images.

#4 Do something fun and quirky

Keep the photoshoot lighthearted and fun by finding some unusual spots and asking your couple to do some quirky things if they are open to that. Like this image below standing in between the huge exhaust installations with the BEL-AIR sign in the background pretending to get blown away! Don’t forget to capture some safe, normal shots too like the one below it, just in case.

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

We found this old chapel with sculptures (below) and thought it would be funny if they copied the poses of the sculptures as another quirky shot. This turned out to be one of their favorite spots from the day too.

The photoshoot is more than just taking pictures, it is an experience as well, so aim to make it easy and fun.

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

#5 End on a high note

As you are shooting, don’t forget to include “indicators” in your conversations as to how far you are into your photoshoot, what other plans you may have in terms of location or shots such as individuals, action, walking away, etc. Tell them how far along you are into your plan, if you are are already nearing the end of the shoot, whether this is this your last location and your last shots, and when it’s a wrap.

Couples appreciate knowing where the markers are in the photoshoot. Some people just cannot handle more than half an hour so markers and indicators help them through it. Others like long photoshoots that could well run beyond the agreed duration and you need to keep tabs on your time so these markers work well for you too. As much as possible though, do not look at your watch!!!

Lastly, end on a high note with lots of laughter if possible. If you achieve this, it greatly helps in reinforcing good photoshoot memories so that there will be a “next time” for another photoshoot with you! Your couple will look back at this day and remember good vibes, not so much the other trying parts like the weather, how cold it was, the hassle of waiting for people to get out of the way, and so forth. When you show your couples their image gallery, end with happy photos too! And that’s a wrap!!

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations

I hope you enjoyed this little article and do share any tips you may have which have not been covered above!

The post 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations by Lily Sawyer appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

17 Dec

Fondly known as the “walk around lens” by professionals and hobbyists alike, the 24-70mm lens is the staple of any photography kit! A lens that offers diversity and functionality, its range makes the 24-70mm lens a remarkable companion for a vast array of photo shoots. From wide captures to close-up portraits, and everything in between, this lens is one that many photographers jump for immediately.

Camera brands such as Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Sigma, and Tamron understand this and have offered a rather wonderful selection of 24-70mm lenses from which to choose. Several professionals actually own more than one 24-70mm, as this lens has the potential of becoming the most used glass in your photographic arsenal.

Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

Why? Well, it’s awesome of course! The benefits of the 24-70mm lens are as priceless as our love for it. Here are some of the reasons why you want to have this lens in your bag.

No Learning Curve

The focal range of the 24-70mm lens is greatly inspired by the human eye. As such, this lens allows brand new photographers to learn with more ease than some other types of lenses due to its lack of distortion.

It is much easier to study composition when you can photograph similarly to how your eye sees naturally. Some wide angle lenses have a curve to the glass, which causes the subjects to warp when improperly photographed. The 24mm aspect of this lens offers no ultra-wide angle distortion while still offering a rather wide capture, perfect for simply concentrating on the best arrangement of elements.

There is equally little trouble with the rest of the focal range. The range passes through 50mm, a commonly used focal length for portraiture. The 70mm offers a very nice zoomed close-up. This lens is a great stepping stone to a variety of focal lengths, such as the 70-200mm lens.

Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

Close Focusing Abilities

This lens is absolutely excellent for a subject that happens to be in close proximity to the glass. The minimum focusing distance does vary depending on models, but it averages 38 centimeters (15 inches) from the glass. To give perspective on how close this is, the average focusing distance for most lenses is 48 centimeters (19 inches), although this is affected by whether your camera is full frame or not, the type of lens, etc.

Although the 24-70mm is not a macro lens (whose minimum focusing distances are around 20 centimeters), it can still take beautiful close-up photographs of flowers and other favorite macro subjects.

Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

Versatile Range

Arguably the most important benefit of the 24-70mm lens is its versatility. The range offers limitless possibilities, with an added boost of immense adaptability in the face of various photo shoots.


You can easily go from a wide angle to a zoom with this beauty, acclimating as quickly as your subjects change. This lens also allows you to capture a large variety of shots per session without the need to consistently change your lens. Considering our photography game with clients is primarily speed and efficiency, the 24-70mm will quickly become your best friend for this reason alone.

The versatility allows you to pack just this one lens when you go gallivanting across the world on vacations or destination shoots, an ideal prospect in and of itself. The 24-70mm lens is also a favorite of wedding photographers, as it allows them to capture precious moments without lapsing to change out gear. As previously touched upon, the focal range also covers the significant focal lengths in the photography world, such as the 50mm and the 70mm.

Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

Robust and Comfortable Build

Most 24-70mm lenses are rather robust little creations, with a comfortable build to last. Knowing that this lens is referred to as the walk around lens, most brands have ensured that your faithful companion is able to outlast most of your adventures.

From weather protection offered by some manufacturers, to solid and sturdy bodies, the 24-70mm is ready for most anything you can throw at it. This lens is also rather comfortable to hold, considering it isn’t very long nor terribly short.

Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

Size

Of course, we cannot discuss build without talking about size. At an average size of 3.28 x 3.28 x 4.86 inches and weight of approximately 2 pounds (900g), the 24-70mm is neither the largest nor the heaviest lens on the market. Quite the contrary, this lens happens to fit into most cases and isn’t the world’s worst hassle to carry.

In comparison to the rest of my kit, my 50mm (f/1.2) lens weighs more despite being shorter. To add even more praise, I have been easily able to put this lens with a camera body into a regular old purse. The amount of use and adaptability you can accomplish with this lens greatly outweighs any physical burdens of transporting it and many would argue that this lens is the same size as the average, most common lenses.

Why Every Photographer Needs a 24-70mm Lens

Now that the 24-70mm has (hopefully) won you over, there comes the burden of choosing which one to get. There are a variety of different 24-70mm lenses, ranging not just by brand, but also by aperture and weight. Here are some, just to name a few:

Canon

Canon’s collection of lenses is home to the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L, Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM, and Canon EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM Lens. The f/2.8 aperture version is the most commonly seen 24-70mm lens, due to its beautiful depth of field and low light capabilities (remember, the wider the aperture, the more light the lens lets in!).



The EF 24-70mm f/2.8L (above left) is the predecessor of the newer EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM (above middle), and those on a budget may do well looking into the original lens which landed an iconic spot in Canon’s lineup. The updated version features improvements to image sharpness, vignetting, and AF speed. That being said, these improvements come at a rather substantial price tag. When pairing with a camera body that features advanced auto-focus systems, the version II is significantly faster than its predecessor. However, if you own one of the older bodies, you won’t see a significant difference. Like version I, version II features weather sealing with a front filter in place, which separates this lens from its competitors.

Canon’s EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM Lens (above right) is another option. Although it does not feature a 2.8 aperture, the addition of image stabilization may sway some to purchase this version. Some of the benefits of this lens over its f/2.8 companion are reduced size/weight, image stabilization, and much lower cost. Another huge benefit is maximum magnification (MM). The 24-70 f/4L IS features an impressive 0.70x magnification (compared to 0.21x for the 24-70L II) which means it can double as a macro lens in a pinch.

Nikon

 

Nikon has the AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR ($ 2396 USD) and AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm F2.8G ED ($ 1796 USD), with a $ 600 difference between them (at the time of writing this article). The 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR is on the larger size of the 24-70mm array of lenses, being an inch longer than its predecessor and a bit wider. However, both of these lenses are extremely sharp in practical use, a wonderful testament to the models. Unfortunately, there is quite a bit of vignetting at the wider apertures. The f/2.8E ED VR version features image stabilization and vibration reduction, unlike the 24-70mm F2.8G ED.

Tamron

Tamron is home to their 24-70mm f/2.8 DI VC USD Lens, which is still one of the only f/2.8 24-70mm lenses with image stabilization. Tamron’s vibration control system allows this lens up to 4-stops of camera shake compensation. The ability of this lens to capture sharp images of static subjects in low light is extremely beneficial, given its low light capability. This lens is also significantly more cost-effective than the Canon lenses. Sadly, you can expect anywhere from 2-3 stops vignetting on a full-frame camera, wide open, depending on the focal length. However, this lens is quite sharp and was noted to out-perform Nikon’s 24-70mm not too long ago. Unfortunately, the AF has been said to not always be consistent.

Note: Read reviews for lenses before you make any decisions.

Sigma

Sigma has the Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 DG OS HSM ART. This lens is significantly heavier than some of the other 24-70mm lenses mentioned, primarily the Canon 2.8 version II. The build quality is excellent given the comparatively affordable price tag. This lens features built-in vibration reduction just like the Tamron equivalent, and a minimum focusing distance of 37 centimeters.

For more on other 24-70mm lenses see these dPS reviews and comparisons:

  • Lens Comparison 24-70mm f/2.8 Canon Versus Tamron
  • Field Test and Thoughts: Tamron 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens
  • Writer’s Favourite Lens – Nikon 24-70 mm F2.8

Your turn

Now that you’ve learned of the wonders of this charming lens, what are you waiting for?!

Have you used a 24-70mm lens before? What are your favorite things about it? Please share in the comments below.

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Transform Your Images with a Click – 62% off these Lightroom Presets Today

17 Dec

We’re at day 5 of our dPS 12 Days of Christmas and today we have one that we know many of you who use Lightroom will LOVE. It’s 62% off any of our Lightroom Presets bundles!

If you have ever looked at other people’s beautiful images and have wondered, “Why don’t mine look like that?” Then you’ll find todays deals perfect for you.

These beautiful presets have been created by some of our favourite photographers to save you a whole lot of processing time.

They will help you convert your photos from average to amazing with just one click.

Here’s the deal – 101 Lightroom Presets for just $ 19 USD:

Normally $ 49 – today you can pick up any one of these 101 presets packs for just $ 19 USD (62% off).

  • 101 Lightroom Presets by Cole Joseph – to take your landscapes and people photos from average to amazing… including 7 high quality collections
  • 101 LANDSCAPES Lightroom Presets by Todd and Sarah Sisson – for all scenery seasons including a bonus toolbox of stackable presets
  • 101 Lightroom PORTRAITS Presets by Rachel Devine – including 67 different presets and 36 different portrait brushes

These collections have been created exclusively for dPS by professional photographers to make your photos “pop” and save you time getting the look you want.

With these collections and a few clicks in Lightroom, people will be wondering why their images are not as stunning as yours!

Each one contains 101 presets – at just $ 19 USD that’s around 18 cents per preset. Whether you just grab the one pack or all three you’ll love todays deal.

Bonus Parter Offers

Anyone who picks up any of the offers during these 12 days of offers gets to take advantage of your exclusive DPS Christmas Deals Bonus Offers, like todays featured bonus where you can pick up Perfectly Clear Complete for just $ 89 USD.

Christmas Deals:
Bonus Offers

Bonus Offers

Brought to you by

ON1
Athentec Perfectly Clear
KelbyOne
New York Institute of Photography

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What to do When it Starts to Rain – Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

17 Dec

I live in a country where the climate is described as temperate. This is just another euphemism for not so great weather! Typically, the seasons sort of merge together and the annual rainfall can dampen anyone’s spirits, pun intended.

It was when living in Paris, France for a couple of years that I truly understood the real meaning of the four seasons. Spring in Paris is actually spring – chilly but with clear blue skies and sunshine. And in summer, my favorite season, it is gloriously hot.

Rain and water, in general, are not a good mix when it comes to camera equipment, especially when it comes to your camera bodies and lenses. But there are times when you can get caught literally out in the rain. So what do you do? Panicking is an option, albeit not a practical solution.

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

In this article, I aim to provide some useful tips to keep you and your gear protected from the elements. The following tips are for when you find yourself caught out in a light rain shower that doesn’t last long, but want to stay on location to continue shooting.

The first thing to do before stepping outside your door is to check the weather forecast. If you have to travel to your chosen destination, the weather may change when you arrive, so be prepared for that. Most smartphones have a weather app built-in. I recently downloaded the rain radar app. It’s free too (for Android here – for iOS as well, just search for the right one for your area).

5 Useful items to have in case it rains

  1. Rain pack and a towel
  2. Lens hood
  3. Camera rainsleeve or a Ziplock bag
  4. Silica gel packs
  5. Umbrella
What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

Hiking boots plus my stuff bag which has my waterproofs and a towel.

Preparation is key here. Inevitably, when shooting outdoors, you are at the mercy of the weather. I have a designated rain pack that I can throw into the boot (trunk) of my car along with my hiking boots. I use this type of bag so as I can stuff my waterproofs and towel inside at short notice. Plus, the bag itself takes up so little space for storing away afterward.

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

My waterproofs & hiking boots ready to go in the boot of my car

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

My handy stuff bag, otherwise known as a dry bag for storing scuba fins!

The towel is for wiping surface water off your gear, especially your tripod legs, before collapsing the legs down. Or indeed yourself!

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

Handy anti-rain items for cameras

The humble lens hood can sometimes get overlooked for its usefulness. This small lightweight bit of plastic is key in not only preventing unwanted strong light hitting the lens at an angle, which produces lens flaring and ghosting. It can also help stop the rain from hitting the front of the lens element. Another bonus for the lens hood is protecting your expensive glass against a fall or knock.

Another permanent fixture in my camera bag is the camera rainsleeve by OP/TECH USA. However, I haven’t yet had to use it but knowing that it’s there is reassuring. It is probably the cheapest camera gear item you will ever buy. I think it’s worth paying $ 6.95 USD. It is inexpensive and takes up so little room in your camera bag. Of course, you can always improvise and use a ziplock bag instead.

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

Camera Rainsleeve by OP/TECH USA – a great inexpensive solution to protect your camera in the rain.

Moisture absorbent silica gel packets, the little 5g packets that are used for storage or dispatch of electronic products. I tend to keep them when I get a parcel delivered, so I have a couple in my camera bag at all times. You can also buy these silica gel packs online quite cheaply too.

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

Silica Gel Sachets – a handy item in your camera bag for keeping moisture away from your camera. Just make sure to check them from time to time for wear and tear. Inside the sachets are very small hard translucent gel balls, which can get lodged in unusual places.

Tip: Do check these little sachets from time to time for wear and tear. Recently, I had one split open not in my camera bag but in my laptop case. I tried to insert a flash drive into the USB Port. The USB key wouldn’t insert completely. Thankfully, I didn’t try to force it. I couldn’t see anything obvious when I checked the USB Port. However, when I got a flashlight to have a better look. I could see this very small translucent ball stuck in the corner. Luckily, I was able to get it out without damaging the USB Port.

Cover yourself too

Last but not least on my list is the ubiquitous umbrella. If you are by yourself, you might be able to hold a small umbrella to protect your camera while shooting. A little awkward at best but it could work in a pinch. On the other hand, if you are with someone else. It’s ideal, as he/she can hold the umbrella over you and your camera.

Umbrellas also act to protect your subjects from getting wet. On one occasion, I used my shoot-through-white umbrella to protect my model from getting wet. It also acted as a great backdrop for the shot.

What to do When it Starts to Rain - Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting?

Girl holding a white see thru umbrella that I used to keep my model dry and it provided a great backdrop too.

Tip: An umbrella can be used as a great prop for an image. For example, a red umbrella or a differently shaped umbrella can really add an interesting dimension to your image.

Summary

Shooting outdoors does indeed bring its own challenges but with a bit of planning and having a few essential items to hand, all may not be lost. We can’t control the weather, so at best all we can do is prepare for it.

For example, for the shot of the Sony camera inside the waterproof case (see top photo). The camera is sitting on the bonnet (hood) of my car and I was nice and dry underneath the front porch of my house four feet away. If the rain persists or is simply too heavy to venture out, use this time to take actual shots of the rain against the window of your house or car.

Before

After

Before

After

What makes these shots more interesting is the type of background and the light reflecting off the rain droplets. For example, in the following image. I was in my own car and shot the car in front of me with my iPhone. I switched the wipers off to let the rain build up on the windscreen. The lights from the oncoming traffic gave it this Blade Runner abstract type shot.

Before

After

Disclaimer: I wasn’t driving the car when I took these shots. The traffic was at a standstill.

I hope you found this article useful. I’d love to hear your tips and advice on how you battle the elements when out shooting in the rain or other inclement weather. Please leave your comments below.

The post What to do When it Starts to Rain – Are you Prepared to Keep Shooting? by Sarah Hipwell appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

16 Dec

Do you struggle to know what to do with your images in post-processing? Do you know where to start with photo editing? Can you relate to this?

Before and after photo editing.

I recently received a message for help from another photographer, “I’m so frustrated with Photoshop. I don’t know what to do or where to even start!?!?” So I asked, “What’s the plan? What are you trying to achieve?” His reply, “I’m not sure…”.

The uncomfortable truth is that we’ve all been there. Staring at Photoshop wondering which of its tools will achieve the look we’re so desperately trying to replicate. You try clicking on every button, using every tool and creating 1000 different layers to add complexity to your image under the illusion that this will instantly make it awesome.

Frustrated, you give up. And if you’re anything like me, you probably walk into the kitchen, open the pantry and look for answers inside a packet of cookies.

This overwhelming hurdle of frustration can cause you to stumble, fall out of love with editing and certainly begin to make everything feel too hard and unachievable. In this tutorial, I’ll show you a very simple technique that will have you soaring over this hurdle so you can continue on your journey to craft beautiful images.

After some thoughtful and carefully planned out photo editing.

It’s all in the preparation

It doesn’t take long for the process of editing in Photoshop to feel chaotic.

It’s easy to take a look at your photo and instantly get to work by creating a layer on top of layer targeting all sorts of adjustments as you see them. Add a bit of contrast here, some brightness there, sharpen this up and blur that… It’s fast. It’s reactive.

Before you know it, you’ll have curves in places you didn’t know you had and more level adjustments than an ergonomic office chair.

You may find yourself stumbling your way through the edit, the process will probably feel a little clunky but you’ll be somewhat happy with the outcome until you click on the next photo. Where the whole process starts again and you don’t know what to do, where to start, and worst of all – you’ve run out of cookies.

What happens if we remove the chaos?

Creating beautiful images is a craft. And much like any craft, a lot of unsexy work goes into the preparation before the fun stuff starts happening.

  • Landscape photographers spend their time scouting locations, researching where the sun will set (or rise) and studying the weather before they venture out at 4 am to capture the magic.
  • Quality chefs spend hours sourcing and preparing their ingredients before they serve their masterpieces.
  • Painters clean, dust and prime their brushes and canvas before bringing their vision to life.
  • Authors spend hours creating a structure and a content plan before putting pen to paper.
  • Builders draw up blueprints and intricate floor plans before laying bricks and building houses.

Preparation is the key to delivering the best possible final version of your craft. Preparation sets up the foundations from which you can begin to form consistency and style, and it helps you focus and stay on track.

So, what does preparation look like?

Well, just like a builder doesn’t turn up to a site and randomly lay bricks to build a house, or a Michelin-star chef doesn’t turn up on a night of service and create a menu from what’s laying around in the cupboards. You, as a photographer and image editor, should try to avoid randomly plowing your way through Lightroom or Photoshop, aimlessly slapping on layers and adjustments without creating a plan that details what you are trying to achieve.

So, when you approach your image – you know what to edit, where to start and what you’re doing. There is no chaos – it’s systematic and as a result, you’re cool, collected, and methodical.

Pfffft! Who has time to plan!?

It’s easy to become frustrated with Lightroom and Photoshop. And it’s even easier to buy your way out of it with presets and actions. I get it, you want rapid results, you want to see instant progress, you don’t want to stop, think and plan – you just want to do.

The truth is, editing beautiful images is a craft. It’s something to take pride in. It’s the final step for you to infuse your images with your personality and style before you share your work with your clients and followers. Therefore, sometimes it’s a good idea to give the editing process a little more love and care than the press of a button.

Doing so can be the difference between your clients and friends thinking, “Oh that’s nice…” and saying “Oh my! That’s AMAZING! Can I order a copy!?”

So, if you want to know how to build something beautiful — something with craftsmanship, something you’re proud of, something that your audience will love – spend time on the preparation stage and create a plan for your edits. The reality is, it takes a little more effort than pressing a preset button. Here’s how you can make a simple plan.

Step #1 – Load Photoshop

Open your image in Photoshop. You can do this from within Photoshop by navigating to FILE > OPEN and selecting your image. Alternatively, you can load your image into Photoshop from within your Lightroom Library. Do this by right-clicking on your photo inside your Lightroom Library and navigate to EDIT IN > EDIT IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP.

1 Open Image Photoshop - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #2 – Convert to Black and White

To establish what to edit and where to start with your image, it’s helpful to begin by temporarily removing the distraction of color. This strips back the information and makes it easier for your eyes to clearly see what is going on inside your image. Convert your image to black and white using the Adjustment Layer menu and navigating to Black and White.

BlackandWhite Adjustment Layer -How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Photoshop BlackandWhite Conversion - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #3 – What do you see?

Ensure that you can see the entire image on your screen. At this stage, you’re only taking a high-level look at your image to get an idea of what catches your eye. Navigate to VIEW > FIT ON SCREEN then hold down CMD (Mac) or CTRL (PC) + press the minus key (-) a couple times to zoom out of the image.

While looking at your image ask yourself these questions.

  • What story is the photo trying to tell?
  • Where do your eyes get drawn to first?
  • Where do your eyes go next?
  • What elements enhance the story?
  • Which elements weaken the story?

There’s no need to write an in-depth analysis here. Spend a few seconds on each question and listen to your instincts. What you are trying to do is look at your image from the viewer’s perspective and establish whether or not they are seeing what you want them to see.

Controlling the attention of your viewer’s eye is crucial to a good photo. It’s about leading them on an uninterrupted journey so they can soak up all the goodness of the story within your image.

Have you ever tried to read a book or watch a movie while someone is talking to you? It’s distracting, you disengage from the story and lose focus. The same applies to your eyes when you look at a photo. Eyes are easily distracted and the moment this happens you’ll lose your viewer’s attention and the story breaks down. Eliminating these distractions is key to creating stronger images.

Take a look at your image. As you do so, make a note of the areas, objects, and elements that your eyes are naturally drawn to and settle on. Typically, these areas will be the brightest parts of the image and areas with the most amount of contrast or sharpness. It’s your job to determine whether or not these areas enhance the story or distract the viewer’s attention and therefore weaken the story.

In the next step, we’ll take a look at this example image and establish the distractions so we can create a simple editing plan.

4 Thailand Boat Man Before - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #4 – Creating your plan

Create a new layer and rename it “Notes”. On this layer, you can use the brush tool to mark-up the areas of your image that you want to pay attention to based on your answers from step #3.

5 Photoshop Notes Layer - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

The example image is trying to tell the story of a Thai man taking his boat out on the water for a snorkel while trying to keep cool in the harsh midday sun. However, you may find that your eyes are distracted by the flapping black strap, the rope, and what appears to be a random metal pole protruding into the frame.

Mark any distractions and things to remove or hide

With your notes layer selected, use a brightly colored brush to circle the distractions, adding them to your plan. You can also use the Type tool to clarify your thoughts so you don’t forget what your markups are referring to when you go to edit them later.

6 Remove Distractions - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

7 Reduce Highlight - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Mark elements you want to bring more attention to

Continue to let your eyes explore the image and mark-up the elements that enhance the story. In the example image, you’ll notice that the subject is wearing a nice pair of sunglasses and that his face is a little dark. Drawing the viewer’s attention to this area will most definitely enhance the story.

8 Lighten Face Enhance Shades - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

The example image uses a lot of horizontal leading lines such as the horizon, the edge of the boat, and the canopy. While these are effective at leading your eye across the image towards the subject, you don’t want them to be too effective and allow your viewer’s eyes to continue along those lines and off the image.

A good way to prevent this from happening is to darken the right side of the photo. This will help to control the viewer’s focus by bouncing it back into the frame and onto the subject.

9 Darken Edges - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Another element of this example that could potentially enhance the story is the light source. Adding a sun or lens flare may help to add some interest and balance out any adjustments made to the subject’s face and sunglasses.

10 Add Flare - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

View the image in color again

When you are finished exploring the image and marking-up your notes, it’s a good idea to disable the Black and White adjustment layer you created in step #2 and take a look at the image in full color. As you do so, ask yourself whether the colors you see align and enhance your story or weaken it?

It’s likely that you’ll find one or two additional distractions in the form of color. These might be objects of a particular color that don’t align with the mood of your story or perhaps an overall color cast that you might want to remove or enhance.

In the example image, you can see that disabling the Black and White Adjustment Layer reveals a bright pink object that causes a distraction.

11 Desaturate Pink - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Finally, we can work with the overall color of the image to align with the story. Given that the example image is telling a story about a man trying to keep cool under the hot summer sun, adding a subtle warm-to-cool color tone may help to convey the story and pull the image together.

12 Colour Transition - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #5 – Create a Group

When you are finished making your notes it’s time to group them all together. You can do this by clicking on your Black and White adjustment layer, holding down the SHIFT key on your keyboard and clicking on your NOTES layer (and any other Type layers that you may have created).

13 Shift Click Group - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

With your layers selected, click on the Group icon to put all of your selected layers into a new group. You can then rename the group to “Edit Plan”.

14 Edit Plan Group - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

With your editing plan in place, you can now systematically work your way through the image. If at any point during your edit you begin to feel a little distracted, lost, or overwhelmed, just refer to your editing plan to get right back on track.

Here you can see the example image post-edit with minimal distractions. You may notice that your eye settles on the subject’s face a lot quicker than they did before, and it’s easier to absorb the story without the distracting elements.

Before

Before

15 Thailand Boat Man After - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

After

Conclusion

Spending just a few minutes marking-up your photos and creating a plan can have enormous results. It tells you what to edit and where to start, and it provides clarity when the editing fog starts to settle in.

Yes, it takes a little more time and perhaps it’s not for every image. But if you want to create something with craftsmanship, something beautiful, something your clients and audience will love – it’s worth every second.

So, I encourage you to spend a little time planning your edits the next time you open up an image in Photoshop. Try to resist the temptation to join the trigger-happy chaos – instead, stop for a minute. Spend twice the time on the preparation, be clear on what you want to achieve, and craft something you’re proud of.

The post How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop by William Palfrey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Portraits

16 Dec

There is something very appealing about the simplicity of a portrait in black in white. It becomes less about the setting, background and environment and more about the person being photographed.

This week we want to see what you can do to create your best black and white portraits. Here are some articles to help if you need assistance:

  • How to Create Good Black and White Portraits
  • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
  • 3 Simple Steps to Craft Better Black and White Photos
  • Avoid These 5 Common Mistakes in Black and White Photography
  • A Guide to Black and White Conversion in Photoshop
  • A Guide to Black and White Conversion in Lightroom

Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Portrait

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

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An Introduction to Lightroom Classic’s Newest Tools

15 Dec

The announcement of Lightroom CC has been stealing all the thunder when it comes to Lightroom over the last few weeks. At the same time, however, Adobe made some changes and additions to the Lightroom you and I have been using (now called Lightroom Classic). There aren’t many changes, but they are very significant, so let’s take a look.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

Changes to Lightroom Classic

Before we get into the new tools, you’re likely to notice an overall change to Lightroom. It is faster. Much faster. It imports faster, you can flick through your pictures faster . . . everything just works faster. That is a nice change.

When it comes to making global edits to your pictures –  that is, changes that affect all parts of the picture – Lightroom works exactly the same. There are no changes (except the speed). The bad news is that there are no new features, but the good news is that you will still be comfortable with how everything works.

Making Local Changes in Lightroom

The latest change to Lightroom comes in the local adjustment tools. If you aren’t already familiar with them, Adobe lets you make changes to specific parts of your picture using one of three tools: the Adjustment Brush, the Graduated Filter, and the Radial Filter.

Since the changes to Lightroom work within these tools, it is worth spending a second making sure you are familiar with them.  Here is what they are and how they work:

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

  • Adjustment Brush: It is just like it sounds. You select the brush and then paint in where you want to make changes. When you call up the brush, a series of sliders will appear, and the changes you make with these sliders only affect the part of the image you have selected. If you want Lightroom to find an edge for you as you paint, to keep things from spilling over into other areas, be sure you have checked the Auto Mask option at the bottom.
  • Graduated Filter:  You will find this tool gets more useful the more you use it. This is a filter that makes gradual changes to your picture, along a straight line. If you are familiar with a graduated neutral density filter, then you are familiar with this tool. As with the Adjustment Brush, when you call up this tool and create a gradient, you will see sliders appear on your screen. You can then make changes to only the part of the image you chose. Those changes will be softly blended in. You can create multiple gradients to change many discrete parts of your image.
  • Radial Filter: Frankly, this is the one I use the least. It works like the Graduated Filter, but it selects an elliptical area. Once you make your selection, you’ll see the usual sliders for making adjustments to the selected area. I find it is most useful for highlighting the subject or a particular part of your image.

The trouble with these selection tools has always been controlling the selection. Take the Graduated Filter, for example.  How often do you really want to make changes along a straight line across your entire picture?  Probably not often. What you end up doing is just trying to feather your changes in softly enough that you don’t notice changes to things sticking over the line.

Now, however, Adobe has provided additional tools for us to deal with that. It is called the Range Mask feature, and you’ll see it as an option at the bottom of the Adjustment Brush, Graduated Filter, and Radial Filter tools.

Using the Range Mask Feature

What does the Range Mask feature do? Simply put, it allows you to exclude things from a selection based on brightness values or color.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

Here’s how it works. Once you have selected a part of the picture to edit using one of the three tools mentioned above, you’ll see a little option at the bottom of the controls for that tool labeled Range Mask. It will be in the Off position by default, meaning it is doing nothing.

When you click on it, you will see options for Color and Luminance. You pick one and then you can exclude colors or brightness values from the selection.

Color Range Mask

For example, if you choose Color, then you will see an eyedropper tool. Use it to select a color you want to exclude from your selection. If you’re happy with that, you’re done. If it isn’t quite right, there is an amount slider just below so you can fine tune it. You can also click and drag to select all the colors in a particular area, or you can Shift-click with the eyedropper to select multiple colors.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

Luminance Range Mask

Or you can select Luminance instead, which will allow you to exclude pixels of certain brightness values from your picture. You’ll see a Range slider with two points on it. Think of these as your black point (on the left) and the white point (on the right).

When you drag the left/black point up, Lightroom will remove darker pixels from the selection. For example, if you want to make changes to a particularly bright area of your picture, but not affect some dark items sticking into the bright area (trees into the sky, a mountain or building, etc.), then pull up the left point of the Range control.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

The Range Mask Feature in Action

It might be more understandable if you see these tools in action. Let’s take a photo like this one just below, where you want to adjust the sky, but there isn’t a nice clean line to use a graduated filter. I should note that we could try to make an adjustment using the Adjustment Brush, but even using Auto Mask it won’t be able to make a clean selection around all those branches. Our best bet is going to be the new Range Mask feature.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

With the new tools in Lightroom, you can make quick work of this. Just grab the Graduated Filter (or the Adjustment Brush, if you prefer) and make the changes you want to the sky. Don’t worry about how it affects the darker part of the image for now. When you are done making your changes, it might look something like this:

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

We can now use the Range Mask feature to clean this up very quickly. Just select Luminance, then pull the left/black point of the Range slider up. That will exclude the dark areas from the selection.

Voila! You now have the exact changes to the sky you want, without any spillover into areas (the cliff and trees) that you don’t want to be affected.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools

You can repeat the process in reverse to make changes to the darker portion of the image as well.

Additional Uses of the Range Mask Feature

As you play with this feature, you’ll find additional things you can do with it. The ability to target pixels based on brightness and color values is so powerful and has so many different applications, that I think you’ll end up using it in a variety of different ways. I am just getting started with it (obviously, as it just came out), but I am already seeing uses for it in my night photography.

With this tool, it is a pretty simple matter to target the dark areas of the sky and leave the stars alone. I can create a selection of the entire sky using the Graduated Filter, and then use the Range Mask to remove the stars from the selection. That way I can just darken and apply noise reduction to only the darker areas.

An Introduction to Lightroom Classic's Newest Tools - night sky image

Previously, that required a tedious process of luminance masks in Photoshop. That’s just one little application I found, and you will doubtlessly find your own better applications.

Application to Your Photography

The recent update to Lightroom Classic has only one additional tool, which is the Range Mask feature addressed in this article. While it is only one change, it is a really powerful addition. It makes all the local adjustment tools in Lightroom Classic that much more powerful.

If you have shied away from making local selections in Lightroom, it is now a much more feasible process. If you are someone that routinely takes your photos into Photoshop to make local changes – utilizing the powerful masking features there – this will probably save you a few trips.

Give it a try and I think you’ll like what you find.

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Video: Travel Photography Tips – Shoot with a Purpose

15 Dec

The challenge with travel photography is that you may not get back to a location again anytime soon. So many photographers try and squeeze out as many photos as possible. The issue is lack of attention to detail and having any intentions or purpose before shooting.

What do you want your image to show?

Waiting for the right gesture, or even right subject to enter your scene is critical.

In this image shot in Trinidad, Cuba I found some amazing light skimming across the cobblestone streets. But it lacked something.

By waiting for a subject, the couple, to enter the scene it is more of a complete story.

In this video, photographer Mitchell gives you some great examples of how to shoot lots of images but end up with better results than just rapid-fire shooting.

The key points mentioned in the video are:

  • It’s not about shooting as many images as possible, but to shoot as many as possible with a purpose and intent.
  • Don’t settle for one or two shots from each scene. Get out of the mindset of needing to get the perfect shot in as few frames as possible. It’s not a contest.
  • Don’t spray and pray. Have an idea of what you want to capture.
  • Explore different framings and camera settings.
  • See how the light changes from different angles.
  • Experiment with different perspectives.

Another example

Here you can see some shots I took of two men deep in conversation in Cienfuegos, Cuba. But it still wasn’t quite what I wanted. The first (upper left) was too busy. The second (right) was more focused on the med but lacked context of the busy street scene. The third (lower left) shot from across is getting closer. 

Finally with the addition of the cyclist I had the shot I had envisioned. It shows context, has layers of activity, and interest. To me, it really speaks about daily life in a Cuban city. 

Do you photograph with purpose? Slow down and think about each frame you shoot. Be intentional.

And come home with great photos!

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