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Archive for the ‘Photography’ Category

Six Reasons to Upgrade From Lightroom 6 to Lightroom Classic CC

25 Mar

If you’re a Lightroom 6 user you may be wondering whether it’s time to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC. Yes, it will cost you more to move over to the Lightroom Classic subscription, but you will receive a lot of extras in compensation. Let’s take a look at what they are, so you can decide whether the upgrade is worth it for you or not.

1. The Lightroom Classic CC subscription includes Photoshop CC

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

It’s true that many photographers do all their photo processing in Lightroom without ever moving across to Photoshop. If that’s you, then don’t feel you need to use Photoshop just for the sake of it.

But there are things you can do in Photoshop that you can’t in Lightroom. If you’d like to try any of these, then you’ll need to subscribe to Lightroom Classic CC to access to the latest version, as you can’t buy a standalone version of Photoshop CC.

These are just some of the things you can do in Photoshop that you can’t in Lightroom.

  • Use layers and masking.
  • Advanced portrait retouching.
  • Blend or composite multiple images together.
  • Swap skies or heads (in a group portrait).
  • Use Content-aware fill to remove unwanted items.
  • Make complex selections.
  • Add texture overlays.
  • Add fancy borders.
Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

I used Photoshop to add a texture layer and an interesting border to this still life photo.

2. Lightroom Classic CC lets you synchronize photos to use with the Lightroom CC mobile apps

With Lightroom Classic CC you can synchronize selected Collections and view the photos in those Collections in the Lightroom CC app (formerly known as Lightroom mobile) on a tablet or smartphone. One benefit of this is that you can download the photos to your device so that you can show them to people even when your device is offline.

This makes Lightroom CC a great way to show your portfolio to people while on the go. You can also develop photos in the Lightroom CC app, which may come in handy when you are away from home.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

A Collection of photos in Lightroom Classic CC.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

The same Collection in the Lightroom CC iPad app.

3. Lightroom Classic CC lets you display photos online

There are two ways to display your photos online using Lightroom Classic CC. The first is to make a Collection public – something you can do with any synchronized Collection. When you do this Lightroom generates a URL that you can give to other people so that they can see the photos in the Collection in a browser (also known as Lightroom Web).

This is a good way to share photos with family, friends, and even clients. If the viewer logs in with an Adobe ID they can even favorite photos and add comments.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

This is how the same Collection shown above looks when displayed in a browser.

The other way is to use Adobe Portfolio to build your own portfolio website. I explored this option in more detail in my article How to Create a Beautiful Online Gallery with Lightroom Classic CC and Adobe Portfolio in 15 Minutes.

Adobe Portfolio is the easiest way I know of to turn a synchronized Collection into a website portfolio.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

One of the pages from my Adobe Portfolio-generated website.

4. Lightroom Classic CC is faster than Lightroom 6

The latest upgrades to Lightroom Classic CC means that it runs much faster than Lightroom 6. The exact speed gains depend on your computer setup (for example, you need to have at least 12GB of RAM to take advantage of some of the speed gains in the latest Lightroom Classic CC release).

But there’s no doubt that the process of importing photos and generating previews is much faster in Lightroom Classic CC. If speed is an issue with Lightroom 6, it may be time to upgrade.

5. Lightroom Classic CC has Color Range Masking and Luminance Range Masking

These new tools give you more options when it comes to making selections and applying Radial Filters, Graduated Filters and the Adjustment Brush. They are extremely useful when it comes to making local adjustments. You will need to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC if you’d like to use them.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

The Color Range Masking tool in action. I used it here in conjunction with the Adjustment Brush to apply Clarity to the red tin, but no other part of the photo.

6. Lightroom 6 is no longer supported by Adobe

While I’ve tried to emphasize what you will gain by upgrading to Lightroom Classic CC in the rest of the article, there’s no getting away from the fact that Lightroom 6 is no longer supported by Adobe. As a result, new features added to Lightroom Classic CC won’t be available to Lightroom 6 users.

The question you need to ask yourself is how important are the new features, such as Color Range Masking, to you and your workflow?

There’s no need to make an immediate decision. There’s nothing wrong with continuing to use Lightroom 6 for now and upgrading to Lightroom Classic CC in a year or two when the difference between the two is much greater.

You also need to be aware of the effect it will have on your workflow if you buy a new camera whose Raw files aren’t supported by Lightroom 6. In this situation, you can use Adobe’s free DNG Converter to convert the new camera’s Raw files to the DNG format, which can then be read by Lightroom 6. If that is too much of an inconvenience then it may be time to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC.

Conclusion

These are the six main reasons that I can think of that Lightroom 6 users might want to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC. If you’re considering the upgrade then take the time to think through your decision and decide which of these (if any) apply to you.

It’s important to make the right choice because once you upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC it’s extremely difficult to go back to using Lightroom 6. The reason for this is that Lightroom upgrades your Catalog so it’s compatible with Lightroom Classic CC. But the new Catalog format isn’t recognized by Lightroom 6. So make your decision wisely.

Can you think of any other reason why a Lightroom 6 user might want to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC? Have you already upgraded? Then please let us know your thoughts in the comments below.


Mastering Lightroom ebooks

Want to get a head start with Lightroom? Take a look at my popular Mastering Lightroom ebooks, written to help photographers learn how to use all of Lightroom’s powerful features. Use the code DPS20 to get 20% off your first order.

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Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits

25 Mar

Whether you’re photographing an individual or group, having sessions on location can add a lot of variety to your images. Most locations offer natural or built-in elements that are great for posing people without having to move too much.

Almost all outdoor locations have natural or built-in elements that can give you options for where to place your client and add more variety to the session. These can include rocks, walls, trees, benches, bridges, cars, lamp posts, columns, archways, fences, fountains, and staircases. Walls also make for great poses. All of these elements are terrific posing props that make your photos interesting. Use them as much as you can.


Start with a good foundation

After you have chosen the elements with which you want to pose your client, begin your session with a simple foundation pose. This could simply be your client standing still, arms at the hips. From there, you can build upon that pose and make subtle changes to add variety.


Another foundation pose might be having your client stand in the middle of a city walkway, as they would if they were alone. From there you can ask them to bring one arm up to fix their hair while standing still. Then, have them fix their hair while walking toward you. Next, have your client do the same with their arm as they walk, but now looking toward the street. Finally, have them do the same, but this time take two steps, freeze their pose and look at you, as you get close for a portrait shot.

You now have five different poses all in the same location built on the same foundation pose.


Good foundation poses will also help with the dreaded question a lot of photographers get, “What do I do with my hands?” By building from simple poses and keeping your client moving with subtle changes, it helps them to use their hands more naturally.

Keep them moving

Many great poses involve having your clients moving. Have your client’s walk, run, jump, sit, stand, turn around, or spin. When you keep them moving you are allowing for lots of different types of shots all while letting your client walk off the nerves.

You don’t even need to move from the spot you’ve chosen. You could have them walk toward you, walk away from you, sit down, crouch down, lie down, or jump all within 15 feet of where you are standing. Have them use their hands while they move around for more dynamic photos.



Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits

Open spaces without posing elements

If you find yourself at a location, perhaps a beach, where there are no elements to use for posing, it can be difficult to pose hands or keep your client moving.

One way to pose hands in open spaces outdoors is to have your client use them. By this, I mean, have your client play with their hair, adjust their clothing, put on and take off their jacket, glasses, watch, etc. Keeping the hands busy relaxes your client and you’re able to make more natural looking photos without having the pose look too rigid.

Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits


Use the light

Shooting on location can offer lots of changes in light since you are outdoors. Use this to your advantage! Experiment with full sunlight, shadows, found pockets of interesting light shapes.

If you shoot your subject in full sunlight, for example, one pose you can try is to have them look up with their eyes closed, arms folded on their head. Another great pose you could try in full sunlight is to use shadows to create an interesting patter either on your client or behind. Have your client looking down or straight at your camera.

Using the different changes in light around you can give you new ideas on where to put the hands, legs, and other elements of your client to create a more compelling or dynamic photo.

Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits


The same can be applied to the basic compositional rules in photography. Using lines, shapes, patterns, and colors in your background to frame and pose your client as part or to stand out may result in a really interesting photo.

Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits

Conclusion

I feel that posing a client on location is much easier than posing in the studio because you have many elements available to use as props. And remember, shooting many different poses also increases your chances of getting the great shots that will build your amazing portfolio.

The post Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits by Jackie Lamas appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Birds

24 Mar

Our fine feathered friends, the birds, make great photography subjects. They can be challenging to photograph though, hence why this week’s photography challenge is – you guessed it – birds!

If you struggle to capture images of the fast ones in mid-air, try to find a bird closer to the ground like this peacock I found at the Auckland zoo strutting his stuff. Chickens, emus, and penguins are all a bit slower and easier to photograph – although you may not have any penguins in your area.

If you need some tips for photographing birds try these dPS articles:

  • 10 Surefire Tips for Photographing Birds in Flight
  • 10 Must-Use Bird Photography Camera Settings for Beginners
  • 10 Common Bird Photography Mistakes and Their Solutions
  • How to Photograph Hummingbirds

Weekly Photography Challenge – Birds

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

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Common Portrait Mistakes You’ll Want to Avoid

23 Mar

Portrait photography is hard. There’s a lot to think about including:

  • Getting the lighting right
  • What lens to use
  • Composition
  • Posing
  • Working with a model or subject
  • Post-processing (how much is enough or too much)
  • And so on . . .

So here are three videos with some tips to help you avoid some of the most commonly made mistakes in portrait photography.

5 Portrait Photography Don’ts

In this video, photographer Manny Ortiz shows you five things NOT to do when shooting portraits.

?

  • Don’t go to your favorite or best location first during a shoot.
  • Don’t be afraid to experiment and take bad photos.
  • Don’t hide behind your camera.
  • Don’t over pose your subject, give them directions.
  • Don’t shoot too conservatively.

7 Common Studio Portrait Lighting Mistakes

Watch as photographer Antti Karppinen walks you through seven of the most common studio portrait lighting mistakes beginners make so you can avoid them. Where you position your main and fill lights, as well as how strong they are can make or break your portrait.

3 More Common Portrait Mistakes

Finally, in this video tip from Adorama TV, Miguel Quiles gives us three more common portrait mistakes.

  1. Not communicating with your model or subject.
  2. Not having the eyes in sharp focus.
  3. Not making sure the subject’s eyes are facing in the right direction.

Over to you. Have you got any other portrait photography mistakes you’d add to the ones mentioned here? Please add your comments below.

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Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

23 Mar

When all goes well, bird photography can be absolutely exhilarating. Yet birds are small and skittish creatures. Hence, a common problem faced by bird photographers, beginners and experts alike, is simply getting close enough to capture an image.

Even with longer lenses, attempts to photograph a bird often result in tiny specks in the final image, not to mention a very frustrated photographer.

heron with fish portrait - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

However, never fear, there are several simple techniques that you can use in order to capture frame-filling images of birds. Using these approaches, you should be able to radically increase your success when it comes to bird photography. You don’t have to own a huge lens to do it, either!

Also, before I begin, I’d also like to emphasize that the welfare of the subject should be your top priority. These techniques can often get you close enough to birds in a non-threatening, non-invasive way. But if a bird begins to show signs of agitation, such as moving away rapidly, calling, spreading its wings, etc., then give up.

If you are set on capturing the image, try coming back on a different day, with a different technique, one that is less likely to disturb your subject.

Without further ado, here four ways to help you get frame-filling images of birds.

1. The slow, low approach

This technique is simple, and is often suprisingly effective. It goes like this – move slow, and stay low.

spoonbill bird photography - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

I got close to this Roseate Spoonbill by moving slowly through the waters of the Florida coast.

As I said earlier, birds are quite skittish. But if you move slowly enough, oftentimes a bird will eventually accept you as a non-threatening aspect of the environment, rather than as a dangerous intruder.

You spot your subject across the lagoon. You (slowly!) take a few steps forward. Then stop and wait. Take a few more steps. Once you’ve gotten significantly closer, I suggest that you get on your knees (or even your elbows), and shuffle forwards.

oystercatcher bird portrait - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

I crouched low and moved across the beach towards this Oystercatcher, who wasn’t bothered at all.

Every so often, check on the bird; you can do this with the naked eye, or through your camera viewfinder. If it begins to move away from you, then that is a sign that you should slow down.

Go really slow!

I also recommend taking a couple of pictures with your camera every few feet. This will allow the bird to become acclimatized the sound of the shutter clicking, and will prevent it from flying away when you begin to photograph in earnest. Once you’re close enough, start shooting.

Now, I said that you should go “slow,” and when I say “slow,” I mean slow. Oftentimes it takes 10, 20, maybe even 30 minutes to get close enough to get usable images. The key here is to be patient; if you can do that, the rewards will be worth it.

White Morph Reddish Egret bird photography

A slow approach allowed me to get close to this White Morph Reddish Egret as it waded in a lagoon.

2. Position yourself and then wait

This is a favorite of mine, partially because it’s so non-invasive, and partially because it’s so successful.

The key fact to remember here is that many birds follow a general pattern of movement. Shorebirds, for instance, will usually forage while moving in a single direction. If you watch them for long enough, you’ll notice that they’ve shifted a good ways down the beach.

So, from a distance, observe the movement of the bird. Think about where it will be in five or 10 minutes. Then, simply place yourself in a position to photograph the bird when it gets to that spot.

tricolored heron bird photography

I took note of this Tricolored Heron’s movements, and sat in the water until it waded past.

Often, if you stay still enough, the bird won’t mind your presence in the slightest, and you’ll find that it may even stray too close. I’ve had tiny shorebirds get within the minimum focusing distance on my camera, at which point it becomes an amazing experience of a whole new type.

black-bellied plover bird photography

This Black-bellied Plover ventured so close that I couldn’t fit its body in the frame.

3. Using a blind

As hunters will know, a blind is a shelter that you sit inside, and will shield you from the eyes of animals. But blinds aren’t only good for hunting; they can be great for photography as well.

This one may seem out of reach. You might think that you don’t have access to blinds, nor can you afford to have one of your own. However, this often isn’t true.

For one thing, local parks may have blinds that you can use for free, or that you can rent. For another, it is often extremely easy to make a blind, one that you can use in your own backyard.

All that it requires is an old tent of some sort, or even a strong box. Cut a hole in the box or the tent, put it in your backyard, and voila, you have a fully-functioning blind. Let the birds have a few hours to get used to the blind, and they soon won’t even notice it.

I like to use this alongside my backyard feeders in winter. I put out some perches, and I am pretty much guaranteed that several birds will fly by and pose.

northern cardinal portrait - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

I took this image of a Northern Cardinal from a tent-turned-blind in my backyard.

4. Using a car

Your car can work as portable blinds, of sorts – oftentimes, birds hardly notice when cars are going by. Hence, you can approach birds on roadsides very closely without them taking flight. Then you can wind down the window, and begin your photography.

This often works best if you are in the passenger seat of the car while somebody else drives. This allows you to focus on the photography, while they focus on the driving. However, if you’re alone and on a public road, I suggest that you pull off and stop in a safe position (near the bird, of course!), before bringing out your camera.

You can also use a car to approach closely, and once you have stopped, you can slowly open the door and approach from the safe side of the car.

heron portrait - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

5. Take an environmental portrait

Now you’ve gotten four techniques for ensuring that you can get close to birds. But sometimes, it’s best to put away that telephoto lens and take a step back. Do not try to fill the frame. Instead, compose with the environment in mind, aiming to capture not just the bird but the beauty of the surroundings.

This works especially well if the environment complements the bird and thus enhances the overall aesthetic. I like to search for this type of image in areas that are already photographically powerful, where the scenery can carry the image on its own, and the bird simply adds something extra.

Next time you get the opportunity, try it. You may even find that the resulting image is more pleasing than the one you would’ve captured with that long telephoto lens.

Swan Michigan misty lake - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

I used a 100mm lens to photograph these swans on a misty autumn morning.

Conclusion

If you are having trouble getting close enough to capture frame-filling portraits of birds, don’t worry. Using the techniques listed above – approaching slowly, lying in wait, using a blind, and using a car – you can capture excellent images, I guarantee it. So I urge you to get out and get photographing!

Little Blue Heron portrait - Four Ways to Get Frame-Filling Shots in Bird Photography

Have any tips of your own for getting close to birds? I’d love to hear them in the comments section below.

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Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

22 Mar

Color is all around us. As beautiful as black and white can be, color gives us variety and sometimes, unpredictability. But funnily enough, it’s also easy to take it for granted.

Over time, I’ve come up with a few exercises to keep color at the forefront of my mind. One of these exercises is to focus on photographing a different color each day. It’s great for keeping your photography fresh and training your eyes to look out for new photographic opportunities.

Getting started

Color may make up the majority of our world, but photographing it might not be as easy as you think. Sometimes the abundance of color can be overwhelming, and sometimes it’s hard to find the color you’re looking for at all! Before taking up the challenge, grab a pen and paper. Write down a heading for each color and list as many different things you can think of under each. Sometimes it’s even worth Googling specific color schemes, just to give you some ideas of what to look for.

Next, designate a day for each color you would like to photograph. And it doesn’t have to be the generic gamut of colors either. Why not try looking out for a more pastel pallet? Soft pinks, greys, and blues make wonderful, atmospheric photographs. More earthy colors like oranges, browns and dark greens are great colors to keep a look out for in Autumn.

Look for bold colors…

Humans have evolved to seek out bold coloration. Deep, saturated colors catch the eye and pull the viewer in for a closer look. A bold color scheme emphasizes texture and shape, especially within a limited color pallete.

Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

Deep, saturated colors catch the eye and pull the viewer in for a closer look.

And a softer color pallete…

Color photography doesn’t always have to be about a bold color scheme. Subtle or almost monochrome color schemes emphasize detail and lend a softer atmosphere to a photograph.

Pastel photographs are best taken during cloudy or low-light days to minimize shadows for a more even-toned image.

Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

Softer pastels like pink and purple can add color without overpowering the image.

Why not both?

Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

The foreground of this image is made up of bold, contrasting colors while the background is predominantly made up of a soft pink pallet. The bold and soft colors emphasize each other and create a more dynamic image. The negative space around the top half of the image is important too, it maintains balance, making sure the full extent of the color palette isn’t too overwhelming.

The opportunity to combine both soft and bold colors doesn’t happen frequently, but you’ll know when it does. Combining the two color schemes creates a dynamic image where bolder and softer colors reinforce each other and bring the image together.

Using movement

Color can accentuate camera movement, and movement can accentuate color. It’s a well-loved dichotomy that is great for abstracted imagery.

Try taking photographs out a moving car window or bus. A slow shutter speed in the late afternoon will allow enough light to create a softness of color.

This image was taken with a slow shutter speed while traveling through the outback. The afternoon light mingles with the light of traveling cars to make a soft, atmospheric abstracted photograph.

Detail

Colour has the power to illuminate detail, adding to the depth of a photograph overall. In a good image, color is the cherry on top – the final pop of color to resolve your photograph.

Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

The subtle yellow road sign and red symbols add detail to an image and invite the viewer in for a closer look.

Look for color in unusual spots

Like I mentioned before, finding your selected color of the day may prove surprisingly tricky. Focusing on red one day will take you on a completely different journey than if you were looking for blue subjects.

Try looking in less frequented locations for unusual colors and patterns. Or take a drive and explore a new location altogether. Changing your perspective or focusing on compositional techniques like leading lines and texture can help get those creative juices flowing.

Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

A red pallete for Monday. Trying to look for unusual perspectives often yields unexpected results, revealing your color of the day in new and interesting ways.

Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing

Wednesday’s color pallete, green and blue tiles adorn an urban walkway.

Conclusion

While color is all around us, it’s easy to take for granted. Simple exercises like focusing on photographing a particular color each day help keep your practice fresh and unique.

Keep your eyes peeled and don’t be afraid to explore, color often reveals itself in unexpected and fascinating ways!

The post Focus on Photographing a Different Color Each Day to Practice the Art of Seeing by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Create Silky Split Toned Black and White Photos Using Luminosity Masks

22 Mar

Have you ever found it hard to choose between processing an image in color or black and white? It can be a tough decision. Enriching colors that instantly captivate your attention versus a timeless black and white photograph full of texture and complex shadows.

There’s every chance you’ll process both versions because you can’t have the best of both worlds, right? Well, with split toning, maybe you can – sort of.

1 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Split Toning 101

At its core, split toning is a pretty simple editing technique. You can create a split tone effect by simply introducing color into the highlights and/or shadows of your photograph.

It’s often used by photographers (and extensively by film makers) to recreate a film look and to create a consistent style across a series of images. In recent years, it’s become renowned for creating the ever so popular “orange and teal” look.

These days, the mere thought of split toning your photograph is greeted with groans of “not another Insta-image”. But for all of its popularity on social media platforms, perhaps split toning is most effective when applied to black and white photographs. This is where its subtle tones combine with texture and luminance to create sumptuous results.

2 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Black and White Versus Color

Colors are powerful. Not only do they add excitement and interest, but they also set the tone for your images. By default, colors come with a little extra baggage – they’re moody, symbolic and represent a preconceived tone.

3 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Tones such as reds, yellows, and oranges are usually associated with warm, gooey feelings of love and comfort.

4 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Whereas the cooler tones such as blue, cyan and magenta are typically associated with melancholic feelings of calmness and reflection.

You could almost think of color as a way of spoon-feeding the viewer with the tone, style, and mood of your images. Essentially, colors can make your job of storytelling a lot easier.

With this in mind, you’d be forgiven for wanting to enhance the emotion of your photographs by pumping up the saturation of your colors. But there’s a consequence. They’re too powerful.

Color Can be a Distraction

For all of their excitement and emotional qualities, colors have the potential to be overly dominant and cause major distractions. I’m not going to pretend I know the science behind why this is, but have you ever noticed that black and white photographs appear to offer a little more oomph? A particular grittiness.

It’s almost like they have a 3-dimensional quality that seduces your eyes and encourages them to roll around in the graduating tones. Okay, maybe it’s just me.

The theory goes that the presence of strong color can make it more difficult for your eyes to detect luminance, perceive depth, and absorb the finer detail in your images. A problem black and white photographs need not worry about.

5 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

You may notice that your primary focus flickers from color to color instead of exploring the shapes and textures of the building in this image.

6 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Removing the color helps your eyes to journey through the maze-like building to explore the textures, lines, and shapes.

Enter Split Toning

Without color, your eyes turn into luminance seeking missiles as they journey deep into your image to revel in silky graduating tones, land on interesting shapes, and explore complex textures.

So how do you combine the moody nature of color with the textural qualities of a black and white image?

This is where split toning makes its grand entrance. Applying a subtle color to the highlights and shadows of your black and white photographs gives you a slice of the emotional qualities that color can offer, without disguising the depth and texture of your black and white photograph.
Who said you can’t have the best of both worlds?

7 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Basic Color Theory 101

Before you dive in and start splashing color around as if you’re celebrating the Holi festival, it’s a good idea to have a basic understanding of color theory. Then you’ll know exactly what colors to combine when you split tone your black and white photographs.

The Adobe color wheel is a great tool that represents the relationship between primary, secondary, and tertiary colors. Photographers, designers, and artists often apply basic color theory to the color wheel to create visually appealing color palettes for their work.

8 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here are three common color schemes you can use to develop a subtle, harmonious, or contrasting color palette for your split toned black and white photographs.

Analogous Color Scheme

An easy way to understand the analogous color scheme, which also avoids you having to pronounce it, is to think of it as a really good set of next-door neighbors.

9 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Analogous color schemes use colors that are directly next to one another on the color wheel. They are naturally harmonious and can often be found in nature.

Triadic Color Scheme

10 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Triadic color schemes use colors that are evenly distributed around the color wheel. This type of color scheme is typically more vibrant and interesting than an analogous one.

Complementary Color Scheme

11 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Colors that are directly opposite one another on the color wheel are known as complementary colors.

If you have watched almost any movie in the last 10 years or scrolled through your Instagram feed in the last 10 minutes, it’s highly likely you would have noticed a strong presence of orange and teal colors. This is a perfect example of a complementary color scheme.

Brief Recap

So far I have briefly covered the advantages of color and black and white photographs and how, in theory, it’s somewhat possible to combine their qualities to get the best of both worlds using a split toning technique. I’ve also introduced a basic level of color theory, so you will know how to create visually attractive color combinations in your split toned images.

At this point, you might be wondering how to apply all this wonderful information and actually split tone your photographs. So, let’s dive in and bring it all together.

How to Create a Silky Split Tone Effect

A common and very easy way to split tone your images would be to use the Lightroom Split Toning tab in the Develop Module.

12 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

This allows you to select a specific hue for the highlights and shadows, adjust the saturation, and the balance of the effect.

13 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

While this method is extremely fast and produces acceptable results, it lacks the ability to infuse your images with a triadic or analogous color scheme. More importantly, it doesn’t allow you to control how the split toning effect is applied to the different tones in your image.

Using Luminosity Masks in Photoshop

Having more control can help you to create a silky split toned black and white photograph that makes you want to instantly hit print and proudly publish it for all to see. To gain this level of control you’ll need to take a deep breath and join me as we take a big brave step into Photoshop.

Step 1: Creating Luminosity Masks

To get started you’ll need to open up Photoshop and load a series of luminosity masks.

If you’ve just exhaled that deep breath with a, “Huh!? What is that!?” there’s no need to run a “What’s a luminosity mask?” Google search. All the basic information you need (and a free action that does all the work for you) is available right here.

Originally developed and thoroughly documented by Tony Kuyper, luminosity masking is regarded as one of the most effective techniques to control your images in Photoshop.

Despite its complex sounding name, luminosity masking is a relatively easy technique you can use to apply subtle adjustments to your images in a clean and effective way.

14 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Several tonal adjustments were applied to this image using luminosity masks to gradually build contrast and depth in this image.

Luminosity masks are commonly used among landscape and architecture photographers to seamlessly blend bracketed exposures, gradually build contrast, and create silky black and white photographs. They work by creating a series of selections that isolate the highlights, mid-tones, and shadows on a granular level, which allows you to target specific tones based on their luminance (brightness) value.

Sadly, the process of creating luminosity masks is nowhere near as fun as using them. So, to save you (and me) from:

  • Death by 100 confusing screenshots detailing how they are created
  • Spending 15 minutes creating luminosity masks every time you want to split tone an image in Photoshop

Here’s a link to download a Photoshop Action that includes all the information you need to install and create luminosity masks in a just a few clicks.

15 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Luminosity masks in Photoshop.

Essentially, having a selection of luminosity masks at your disposal gives you ultimate control over your photographs. It means you’re able to work with the highlights, mid-tones, and shadows independently of one another. Which, if you’re partial to the odd black and white photograph, provides you with the perfect system to create a beautiful split toning effect.

Step 2: Create a Color Palette

With your luminosity masks created, head over to the Adobe color wheel to create a visually attractive color palette. Note down the hex value of your desired colors, as you will need these in the next step. For this example, we’ll create a complementary color scheme.

16 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 3: Apply your Shadow Color

Create a Solid Color Adjustment Layer and enter the hex code of the color you’d like to introduce into your shadows.

17 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 4: Color Blending

Change the blend mode of the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to “Color”. As you do so, you’ll notice that your entire image will be colorized with the hue you selected. Now select the default white layer mask and delete it by dragging it to the trash can icon.

18 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 5: Select a Luminosity Mask

Navigate to the Channels tab and locate the luminosity masks you created using the Photoshop action in step one. You’ll notice that seven luminosity masks with varying degrees of intensity have been created for your highlights, likewise for your shadows, and two luminosity masks will target the mid-tones of your image.

15 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Luminosity masks are stored in the Channels tab.

The aim here is to apply one of these luminosity masks to the Solid Color Adjustment Layer you just created. This will restrict the effect of the adjustment layer to only appear in specific areas of your image.

Clicking on each of the luminosity masks allows you to preview the target areas of your image.

Luminosity masks work much in the same way as regular masks. The white areas of the mask will reveal the effect and the black areas of the mask will conceal it. The grey areas of a luminosity mask will partially reveal the effect which helps to create a subtle and clean finish.

19 1 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Clicking on a luminosity mask allow you to preview what areas of your image it targets.

The general aim is to select a luminosity mask with just enough white (and gray) in the areas where you’d like the color to be visible. As a rule of thumb, when choosing a luminosity mask to add color into your highlights, selecting the “Lights 2” or “Lights 3” mask usually works well.

If you intend to introduce a color into the shadows of your image (like in this example), then you may find that using the “Darks 2”, “Darks 3” or “Darks 4” luminosity masks will provide you with a silky-smooth finish.

19 2 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

The white areas represent where the blue tone will be revealed.

Step 6: Load Luminosity Selection

With your chosen Luminosity Mask selected click on the “Load mask as selection” button at the bottom of the Channels panel. Upon doing so, you’ll notice that the marching ants appear to indicate the selection.

20 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 7: Create a Layer Mask

Navigate back to your layers tab, select your solid color layer and click the “Add Layer Mask” button. This will create a layer mask using the luminosity selection which will restrict the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to only be visible in the white areas of the mask.

In the example, you can see that the blue color tone is now only visible in the darker areas of the image.

21 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Loading the “Darks 4” luminosity mask helps to restrict the effect to the shadow areas only.

Step 8: Refine Your Color

At this stage, there’s every chance the effect will look a little too strong and not very subtle. This is where working with adjustment layers and masks gives you complete control.

To refine the effect, double-click on the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to reduce the saturation and brightness. If need be, you can also adjust the overall opacity of the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to soften the effect.

22 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Reducing the saturation and brightness helps to create silky smooth shadows.

If your effect is still too strong then you may want to consider deleting the layer mask and repeating steps 5 and 6 to select a luminosity mask with a softer selection.

Step 9: Housekeeping

To help keep your layers neat and tidy, you can rename the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to “Shadows”.

23 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 10: Mid-tones

Repeat steps 3-8 to apply your desired color to the mid-tones. Only this time, when you get to step 5, you’ll need to select the “Midtones 1” luminosity mask.

25 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Note: When you load the “Midtones 1” luminosity mask as a selection, Photoshop will display a warning which states “No pixels are more than 50% selected. The selection edges will not be visible.”

24 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

You can safely ignore this warning. Your mid-tones will still be selected, this message is just Photoshop’s way of saying, “Woah there! You are making a selection so subtle that the marching ants can’t show you where it will apply.”

Step 11: Highlights

Finally, you can now introduce a color into your highlights.

26 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

To do this, you’ll need to repeat steps 3-8, modifying step 5 to select a “Light” luminosity mask. Often the “Lights 2” or “Lights 3” masks will create subtle results.

27 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here’s an example of the shadow, mid-tone, and highlight layers combining to split tone the image.

28 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Before and After

14 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here is the image prior to applying the split toned effect.

1 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here is the image after applying a complementary split toned effect.

As you can see, the subtle toning helps to add a little emotion to the cityscape without losing the sense of depth of the original black and white image. And because the toning has been applied with luminosity masks and layers, you’re able to tweak and control the precise tone until it has a silky quality that makes you want to jump inside the image and roll around in its graduating tones.

Examples

Here are a few examples of different color schemes applied to the cityscape using the exact same process.

Warm Analogous Color Scheme

29 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Warm analogous color palette created with the Adobe color wheel.

30 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

A Cool Analogous color scheme

31 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Cool analogous color palette created with the Adobe color wheel.

32 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Triadic color scheme

33 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

A vibrant Triadic color palette created with the Adobe color wheel.

34 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Conclusion

Whether you are looking for a way to add a little more emotion into your black and white photographs or simply trying to work out if you prefer an image in color or monochrome, you may find that split toning a black and white image can often give you the best of both worlds.

35 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

And besides, in a world full of heavy saturation, smartphone filters, and HDR, it can be refreshing to strip away excess color and produce a sumptuous split toned black and white photograph.

I hope this encourages you to play with the color wheel and experiment with split toning effects. If you decide to give it a try, I’d be delighted to see your photographs in the comments below.

The post How to Create Silky Split Toned Black and White Photos Using Luminosity Masks by William Palfrey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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8 Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

22 Mar

Shooting with a wireless remote adds a lot of extra flexibility and scope to your options. Touching your camera is sometimes not practical or possible. Something as simple as pressing the shutter button with your hand can cause vibration and shake which compromises the image quality.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

Being able to engage your camera to shoot while physically distant from it has a lot of benefits. There are cabled options which may be more cost-effective, but you are still limited by the range of the cable, and there are safety concerns. No one wants to trip over a cable and pull your tripod and camera over to smash on the ground!

Wireless remotes are a more expensive option but it offers up much more freedom with your shooting choices.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

Top view with the module mounted on the hotshoe and plugged into the camera port.

Benefits of using a Wireless Remote

1. Macro photography

When working with a very small depth of field as in macro photography, sometimes measured in millimeters or less, you have to get your focus point exactly right to get the image sharp. The absolute slightest vibration can interfere with the focus accuracy.

When I shoot I make sure I am sitting some distance away from my tripod and I am very stable and grounded. Sometimes I even hold my breath.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

Live View engaged, and the wireless remote is on the surface where I am positioning the cupcake, ready to go.

Sharper images

Two changes that I made to my macro shooting workflow made a massive difference in improving the number of sharp shots I was able to obtain. First was getting a wireless remote. The second was shooting in Live View mode, with the view zoomed in.

This allowed me to focus very accurately, sometimes on auto, and sometimes with manual focus. Then by using the remote, it takes vibration out of the shot in two ways – not touching the camera shutter means no movement is introduced. Second, when shooting in Live View, when the lens initially engages, it moves the tiniest amount. By half pressing the remote button, it engages the lens and everything moves a tiny bit and then holds there until the remote button is fully depressed and the shot is taken.

This method has reduced the number of shots taken to capture a sharp image to around 3-5 with around a 50% sharpness rate. Previously over 20 images could be taken and none in focus.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

Cupcake being staged, camera set up with Live View for accurate focus and the wireless remote is within reach to take the shot.

My Canon 100mm F2.8 IS L Macro lens gets used for macro, food, flower and still life photography this way. It allows me to shoot much quicker as fewer shots are taken, and I have a much better feel for how good the shots are when using Live View. It’s a real time saver.

2. Self-Portraits

My work in fine art self-portraiture got a whole lot easier once the ability to shoot at a distance from the camera appeared in my hand, literally, in the form of a wireless remote. It still allows you to shoot using a time delay. So you can click the remote to start the timer, and then drop the remote out of the frame but within easy reach to experiment with different poses and angles.

This is also potentially useful for any portrait shots of pets or children, where it might be necessary to use your hands to attract their attention and direct their eyes toward the camera.  It also allows you to walk away from the camera to fix hair, adjust the fall of a dress or veil for a wedding, and other portrait style shots and still capture candids.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

My first ever experiment shooting with myself as the model – this was extremely difficult to do before I had the remote.

3. Long Exposures

My Canon 7d Mark II has a built-in Bulb mode that shoots over 2 hours, so for me, a remote is not needed for long exposure photography.  However many cameras only shoot up to 30 seconds on Bulb mode, and so require you to either hold the shutter down manually or use a remote (cabled or wireless).

Minimizing camera shake is ideal, so not touching the camera is preferred. A remote allows you to hold the shutter open manually for as long as needed. Or as long as you are prepared to hold onto the button (some remotes will time the shot for you, or have a locking button so you don’t have to hold it).

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

A long exposure that was taken under the light of the full moon. Mote the shadow of the photographer in the bottom left-hand corner – it was so dark I didn’t see it on the shots on the camera. Next time I will know to walk out of frame.

4. Wildlife

Perhaps you are setup in a hide or near a preferred perch, with the camera all prefocused, ready to get the shot, but the critters are staying away. By having the option to move away from the camera and minimise human presence near the scene, it may help you to get the shot you want. Perhaps it might not be safe for you to be in the position, so you could shoot from the safety of a vehicle instead.

5. Using an intervalometer

An intervalometer is a special kind of remote with extra functionality built-in which allows more advanced photography options including shooting time-lapse, light trails, astrophotography, and lightning. Wired and wireless options exist and they do the basic features described in this article as well as offer more control over other options.

Time-lapse requires a sequence of shots taken over a period of time. The intervalometer allows specific control of the interval between shots, and the time period over which the shots are taken.

Light trails and astrophotography are often taken using similar techniques with a longer exposure to allow for vehicle or star movement. Because they are usually done at night, with minimal light, the shutter needs to be open for a lot longer, hence the need for an intervalometer. Plus you can sit in the warmth of your car or the tent for several hours while the camera does its thing.

Having more control over how long the shutter is open and when it is open is a key factor for successful lightning photography if you are not using a lightning trigger and shooting manually.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

Learning how to do light trails would have been a lot easier had I longer than 30 sec to play with at a time!

6. High-speed photography

For those seriously into high-speed photography, they will probably invest in a triggering device, that will operate by sound or breaking a laser beam. For those of us wanting to experiment at home, using a remote and timing it with the event is a more affordable option initially.

You may have to repeat the thing – like bursting a balloon or water droplets – many hundreds or thousands of times to get the perfect shot, and timing is the key. If you are working alone, then a wireless remote is a key tool to enable you to pull off this kind of experiment and get the shot you are after.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

I haven’t yet played with high-speed work so instead, have some nice Christmas lights.

7. Landscape photography

Minimizing camera vibration is a key to getting sharp shots. My camera has a custom function to lock up the mirror and hold for two seconds before taking the shot. This allows me to press the shutter button, let go and walk away and the camera does its thing. Another option is to not touch the camera at all, and use a remote, although you may also like to have a mirror lockup and pause in your process as well.

It’s also useful for getting your shadow out of the bottom of the frame, something that occasionally gets picked up when shooting with an ultra wide-angle lens like the 10-22mm.

Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography

A light show in winter that required long exposure experimentation to get the right time to get the best color display.

8. Physical issues

It may be physically difficult for to you get into a particular pose that is necessary to get your eye up to the camera for a long time. Lying on cold wet ground may be unpleasant or even dangerous in winter environments.

Your safety may be at risk for a variety of reasons, so being able to be away from the camera but still shoot, is a key benefit to wireless remotes in these situations.

Pros of wireless remotes

  • Shoot at the exact moment required.
  • Enables you to shoot some distance from the camera.
  • Reduces vibration.
  • Safety.
  • Allows for creative experimentation.
  • Frees up your hands for other purposes.

My Wireless remote (right) and the module that plugs into the camera (left with cable).

Cons

  • They’re expensive.
  • Fiddly bits that require lots of batteries to function.
  • Remote is easily lost.

Summary

Since getting a wireless remote it has completely changed the way I shoot and vastly improved the quality of my work while allowing many fewer shots to be taken. The freedom to shoot while away from the camera has allowed for a lot of very creative self-expression in the fine art space. Having my hands free while doing food photography makes it much quicker to tweak compositions by small amounts.

The next phase on my journey to shoot wireless will be going to a device like a Cam Ranger, which not only would allow me to shoot via my phone or iPad but to see what the camera is seeing. That’s especially useful for my self-portrait work and easier to view on a much bigger screen for eyes that don’t focus as well as they used to.

However such a device is quite expensive, and a wireless remote is a much more affordable option and allows you a lot of flexibility to try many new things.

So a wireless remote might be for you if you are frustrated with not getting sharp macro shots, or want better control over how you shoot, improve your keeper rate, or just try something new that you couldn’t do before. Maybe you just want to be warm when shooting in wet/cold weather? Get yourself a wireless remote and enjoy experimenting with some different shooting styles.

The post 8 Benefits of Using a Wireless Remote for Your Photography by Stacey Hill appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

22 Mar

Let’s face it, getting in front of a camera feels uncomfortable to most people! As photographers, it’s our job to help guide the people in front of our cameras in ways that will allow them to feel more comfortable and also allow you to capture genuine emotion and interactions. In my experience, one really effective way to do this is through what I like to call “gentle posing”.

In other words, you give the people you’re photography some basic prompting that allows for emotions and interactions to unfold. This usually includes some posing instruction without being so specific that it starts to feel especially awkward and unnatural to them.

How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started - portrait of a young man

In this article, I’m going to share some of my go-to prompts and gentle posing instructions for different ages and groupings. Obviously, you’ll want to tailor these to the people you’re photographing, not every suggestion will work for every family or child.

That said, this collection of prompts will definitely get you started thinking about how you can begin to incorporate these techniques with the people that you find in front of your lens!

Babies & Toddlers

Here are a few ideas to use with your younger subjects:

  • Ask the child, “Can you give mommy a snuggle?”
  • “Can you kiss daddy’s cheek?”
  • Have dad stand behind you and play peek-a-boo with their kiddo.
  • Have mom stand next to you and mime that she’s going to come tickle the child.
  • Start loudly singing a song from the child’s favorite movie or TV show (I usually ask parents about favorites in advance so I can look them up if needed).
  • Bring a bubble machine and set it off nearby.
  • Say, “Now everybody give Jane a kiss!” (using the child’s name)

Read more for other tips on photographing young kids here: 6 Simple Tips to Capture More Expressive Images of Your Children

How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started - mom and baby

How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started - parents and child

Children (Ages 3-10 ish)

Here are some suggestions for slightly older kits:

  • “Show me your best princess face! Great! Now show me your best monster face! Love it! Now show me your surprised face!”
  • Tell a knock-knock joke, then ask them to tell you one.
  • “Would you rather eat three worms, or a peanut butter and pickle sandwich?”
  • Spin around twice and then sit down as fast as you can.
  • Point to your camera lens, and ask them if they can see what color your eyes are through the lens.
  • Ask them to show you their best trick or dance move.
  • “Okay, whatever you do, DO NOT SMILE!”
  • “Your turn to choose – what do you want me to take a picture of you doing?”
  • For younger children, sometimes I’ll give them a “magic” rock or leaf and tell them that whenever they push it, the camera will take a picture. Invite them to try it out! (Make sure you have a hidden remote trigger to make this work.)
  • “What’s your favorite part of school? Can you tell me about the funniest thing that happened at school recently?”
  • “What’s the silliest song you know? Can you sing it for me?”

Also read: 5 Non-Posed Ideas For Photographing Kids

How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started - young girl grinning with missing tooth

How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started - portrait of a young girl

Teens and Tweens

This age group can get a bit tougher:

  • “Give me your best Smize/Blue Steel!” If they don’t know what either is, spend a minute showing them YouTube clips and then demonstrate it for them. Trust me, this is priceless!
  • “Who’s your favorite athlete/author/band? Great! Channel them for a minute and pose like they would for the cover of a magazine.”
  • “What do you think you want to do after high school?”
  • Ask them to give you their best Santa Claus laugh. Then demonstrate out loud with a hearty “Ho! Ho! Ho!”
  • Tell a really lame joke.
  • “Okay, start with your arms crossed in front of your body. Every time I say ‘Go!’, I want you to strike a different pose. Ready, go!”
  • Compliment them! Tell them that they look fantastic, or that you think their accomplishments/ambitions are so amazing. Make sure your words are genuine – kids are perceptive and can tell when you’re just giving them lip service. That said, this generation continually gives me hope for the future of our world, so it should be easy to find something to commend them for.
  • Joke around that when you’re photographing younger kids, this is usually when you break out into song, and start singing “Let it Go” or another popular children’s song.
  • “Your mom is hysterical. Tell me about the last thing she did that was hilarious.”
  • “What was the last book/TV show that made you laugh out loud? What was the last one that made you cry? What was the last one that you absolutely hated?”
  • “If you could get on a plane RIGHT NOW and go anywhere you wanted, where would you go?”
  • “What’s one thing you’re really proud of?”

Also read: Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love

portrait of a teenager - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

a young man posing on a baseball field - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

Families

  • “Group hug! Smush even closer! Closer! Get as close as you can! Now nobody fart, okay?”
  • “Everybody tickle John!”
  • “Okay, everybody look right here at me. Now, everybody look at the person that snores the loudest! Now everybody look at the person that burps the loudest!”
  • If the family has younger children, I’ll often have them play a game like Ring Around the Rosy or use a quilt like a parachute for the kids to run under.
  • Sometimes I’ll ask families to hold hands and run towards an object (this works best if they’re running in front of/behind one another rather than side-by-side)

Read more here: 8 Tips for Getting Great Expressions in Family Portraits

family portrait - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

family photos - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

Siblings

  • For siblings holding an infant, I often ask them to look at and/or touch a specific body part (i.e. “Do you see baby sister’s nose? Can you look at it?”
  • “Give each other the biggest bear hug you can!”
  • “Hold hands and look at each other. Now, look at me!”
  • “Can you tell your sister a secret?”

siblings - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

young kids - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

Couples

  • For couples, sometimes I’ll ask one person to use their nose to draw something on the second person’s cheek. The second person should close their eyes while the first person is drawing, and then has to guess what they drew.
  • “When I say go, I want Joe (the guy’s name) to whisper his favorite vegetable in Jane’s (the girl’s name) ear in his most seductive voice. Ready? Go!”
  • On occasion, I’ll have couples hold hands and walk towards me. If possible, I’ll secretly give one person instructions to use their hips to bump the other person as they walk.
  • Everybody say “Coffee!” (This usually gets a laugh from couples at morning sessions, but it also results in a more natural smile than asking someone to say “cheese”).
  • “What was your first dance song at your wedding? Hang on, let me find it on Spotify! We’re totally re-creating your first dance right now! Let’s see it!”
  • “Wrap this blanket around yourselves. Now, touch noses. NO KISSING!”

Read more here: 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples

couples portraits - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

couples portraits - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

Other Groups

  • Some variation of “Sally, tell me the funniest story you know about Amy!” or “Joe, tell me about one time when Zack totally saved your butt!” are usually the best options for genuine reactions.
  • For wedding parties, I sometimes ask the bridesmaids to give me their best groomsman pose and vice versa.
  • I’ll often ask big groups to do a big group hug, and then tell them to get closer…and closer…and closer until they all can’t stop laughing.
  • “On the count of three, give me your best model pose!”

Read more here: How to Pose People for Group Portraits

wedding group photo - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

wedding photos - How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started

Conclusion

Whew, that was quite a list! Hopefully, it will give you some ideas of different ways to prompt the people you’re photographing that will elicit genuine emotions and expressions from them.

What about you? Do you have any go-t0 prompts for the people you’re photographing? If so, please chime in down below in the comments.

The post How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started by Meredith Clark appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

21 Mar

One of the biggest hurdles to overcome in street photography is inhibition. Taking candid photos of strangers is not for everyone. Your demeanor should be cool, calm, and confident, even if that’s not how you feel inside.

Looking sheepish or, worse, creepy, is the last thing you want. The way you dress might have an effect. Rightly or wrongly, people will assess you based on their first impression. Think about ways you can blend in.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

If confidence eludes you when photographing strangers, there are other ways of approaching street photography—ways that are passive and non-confrontational.

#1 Pick a background

Before discussing the main topic, let’s look at backgrounds. One way of taking street photos is to find interesting backgrounds and wait for suitable subjects to move into view. This works especially well if you can establish a link between the person entering the shot and your chosen backdrop.

Perhaps you want someone dressed in a particular way or with a specific pattern or color of clothing. Often, style or elegance is enough. When you arrive at the scene before your subject, the feeling of invading his or her space reduces.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

The problem you’re most likely to face with this method is people stopping to let you take the photo, not realizing that they are the vital element. It helps if you’re ready to take the shot in advance rather than lifting the camera abruptly as someone draws near.

Working distance also plays a part: the closer you are the more noticeable you become. Master the art of loitering, and look relaxed while you’re doing it.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

#2 Aim low

Pointing your camera downwards is an easy way to take street photos. As in other areas of life, your presence will be better tolerated if you’re not in anyone’s face. People with a keen sense of personal space are less likely to care about a lens aimed at their feet.

Even if you’re a confident street photographer and have no qualms about taking photos of strangers, some great photos exist at ground level. This is not purely a technique for the shy or meek.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

One famous exponent of low-level pictures is Elliott Erwitt, who is especially known for photos of dogs and their owners’ ankles. You can emphasize the character of a pet by getting down to its level when taking a photo. In effect, Erwitt was humanizing the animal and making the human subordinate.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

#3 Pick a background and aim low at the same time

By combining both the techniques we’ve discussed, the process of taking street photos becomes simpler still. That’s not to say that good results are any easier, but you might feel more comfortable with what you’re doing. The only trait you’ll need is patience.

Choose an interesting low-level background and imagine the type of subject you want to walk across it. Then, wait.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

In a city, you’ll become almost invisible by standing casually around and pretending to fiddle with your camera settings. In fact, the more baffled you look by your own camera, the more innocent you seem.

This is the opposite of the “confident photographer act”. When you look distracted, nobody cares what you’re doing and they’re unlikely to realize that they’re the prop you’ve been waiting for.

#4 Cameras and Camera Settings

You can use any camera for street photography, but some degree of discretion is an advantage. A bulky DSLR with a big lens is likely to get you seen. A smaller rangefinder or compact camera is ideal.

The extra depth of field you’ll get from a compact camera is also useful for this subject matter. You can also configure an SLR to be more of a point-and-shoot camera (high ISO, small aperture).

Taking good street photos is so hard that you need to sort out the technical settings beforehand. There’s usually little time for fine-tuning once you’ve seen the picture.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

#5 Capturing movement

To capture movement in your subject, a camera or lens with image stabilization (IS) is useful. It will help keep the background sharp while enabling movement in your subject.

For this, you could shoot in twilight hours or even after dark. Or else, you’ll need to manually set a slow shutter speed of about 1/8th to 1/30th second and let the image stabilization take care of the background. Compact cameras typically allow low handheld speeds with good results, especially with a wide-angle focal length.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

#6 Background ideas

Photographing people’s lower extremities is easier if you’re on a slightly different level. To that end, slopes, steps, and escalators are ideal. If you don’t want your motives and character being questioned, be wary of your camera position in relation to the subject and don’t take photos that look remotely voyeuristic.

Ground-level backgrounds might include cobbles, grating, wooden boards, road markings, or street art. Above the ground, you could be looking for anything to complement the subject. It might be a wall, shop window, or an advertising hoarding.

The background is as important as the subject – you’re trying to find an interesting juxtaposition.

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

Generally speaking, a “fussy” background (one with lots of small detail) is likely to clash with a fussy main subject. The main elements of the picture should not rival each other.

Finally

Aiming low with your photography doesn’t sound like encouragement, but good pictures await you at ground level. Perhaps above all else: learn how to loiter. Stay relaxed, move slowly, lean on stuff, and wait.

Until the moment you release the shutter, you’re only an observer. Try to anticipate, so you don’t have to lift your camera at the final moment. Keep an eye on who’s coming your way. Casually point your camera down and wait for the actor to enter the stage.

The post 6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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