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Archive for the ‘Photography’ Category

Weekly Photography Challenge – Cats

07 Apr

Whether you’re a cat or a dog person we’ve got you covered. Last week’s photography challenge “went to the dogs” and now it’s time for the kitties!

My girls, Munchkin (Munch) on the left and Fuzz on the right.

Need some help? Try these dPS articles:

  • 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
  • Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snapn Paws
  • 6 Tips for Working with Unruly Animals in Pet Photography
  • 8 Tips for Better Pet Photography

Weekly Photography Challenge – Cats

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

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How Slow Photography Can Help You Improve Your Images

06 Apr

So often we are caught up in hectic schedules and checking completed items off our to-do lists that we don’t make time to truly enjoy our photographic experience. I believe slow photography can be a fabulously enjoyable, and even therapeutic experience, especially when you give yourself time to indulge.

Woman making giant soap bubbles in a park. - How Slow Photography Can Help You Improve Your Images

When you have a camera in hand you can set your mind and emotions free from the troubles of the day and step into another world, one of inspiration and creative expression. But you must be mindful and make time for yourself to achieve this.

Man with his tricycle taxi in Chiang Mai, Thailand - How Slow Photography Can Help You Improve Your Images

Being Patient

Patience is a virtue and should not be exclusive to bird and wildlife photographers. Maybe these genres require somewhat more patience, but street photography, sports, landscape and most other kinds of photography require you to slow down and take time to obtain the best possible images from most situations.

Some of the very best street photography is not brought about by spontaneity alone, but by careful planning, anticipation and patience. Finding a great location on the streets is one thing, but often you’ll have to wait for the best light and the most interesting action to present itself in your chosen location to capture the most impressive photographs.

Street with activity in Muang Mai Market, Chiang Mai, Thailand. - How Slow Photography Can Help You Improve Your Images

Even the best sports photographers take time with their photography. The time they invest may be in studying the game more or getting to know the players and coaches of the teams they photograph the most.

Doing this will give them the knowledge and relationships which will enable them ultimately to capture more dynamic pictures in the spur of the moment. They will more easily anticipate the flow of the game than someone who’s inexperienced and knows little or nothing of the character of the team.

Thai man working as a porter at the fresh market in Chiang Mai - How Slow Photography Can Help You Improve Your Images

Observe

Taking time to observe the environment in which you are photographing will help include more sense of feeling into your photos. Rather than rushing in to get some photos as soon as you arrive at your location, leave your camera in its bag or case and just observe what’s there and what’s happening.

Use your other senses too, not just your eyes. Listen, feel, smell and even taste (when it’s appropriate) to become more aware of the environment where you want to take photos.

Lots of frogs - Slow Down and Take Your Time – Don’t Rush Your Photography

Give yourself space to slow down, to take a step back and observe what’s going around you. You will often discover interesting and photogenic subjects that you may not notice if you move in too quickly and start taking photos immediately.

Incorporate Photography into Your Schedule

Take your camera with you wherever you go. To work, school or university, when you exercise, when you go shopping, and when you walk the dog. By doing so you will learn to see your regular environment in different ways.

Thai woman outdoors - Slow Down and Take Your Time – Don’t Rush Your Photography

Making time to use your camera each day is one of the best ways to improve your skill and technique and to develop your own unique style. Giving yourself time within the regular context of your day might seem hard or a little strange at first. But as you commit yourself to doing this you can begin to find ways you hadn’t thought of to make interesting photos.

Think outside the box as you go about your regular routine. Make the ordinary things in your life look extraordinary in pictures.

Thai woman selling mangos at the fresh market in Chiang Mai - Slow Down and Take Your Time – Don’t Rush Your Photography

Revisit Locations and Subjects

Visiting the same locations multiple times and photographing the same subjects more than once is often worth taking the time to do. If you go someplace just once you will never really know if you’ve gotten the best photos possible.

Reviewing the images from your first or subsequent visits to a location will help you build a more critical eye. Then when you return to that place and subject you will have a more experienced perspective than at first go around.

Female butcher are a Chiang Mai market - Slow Down and Take Your Time – Don’t Rush Your Photography

By making time to do this you will most likely enjoy the experience more and produce better photographs.

Be careful to opt for places you really enjoy and feel good about as this will help compel you to return and seek to make better photographs than you have done previously.

Kayaw girl blowing bubbles in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

In Conclusion

By allowing yourself time to slow down and enjoy using your camera you will begin to see a progressive improvement in the quality of your images. Continuing to delve into techniques you’ve not previously mastered and experimenting with new subjects will help maintain a freshness in your pictures and you will enjoy your photography time even more.

Maybe we can make slow photography the next popular craze!

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Shedding Light on the Histogram – 8 Rumors and the Real Facts About this Graph

05 Apr

There have been dozens of articles and many videos published about the purpose and interpretation of the histogram in post-production. It serves a purpose in both the camera capture and post-production processes.

Tons of pulp has been generated about this tiny graph clarifying the general purpose of the histogram. But there is still much to be learned about this graph. This article will clarify some issues while focusing mainly on post-production concerns.

Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

The individual RGB values are dominant in this image. Only the cracks in the sidewalk and spots of white in the cement cause the spikes on the outside edges of the graph.

Some articles I’ve read portray the histogram as the Holy Grail of digital photography and even describe an ideal histogram shape. Others describe the histogram as an accurate revelation of image health, sort of like a digital EKG. Still, others downplay the value of the statistical feedback completely and totally miss its primary purpose. Listed below are actual quotes from tutorials and articles about the histogram.

Colored Fence - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

The two histograms reveal more information than you might think. The RGB graph reveals the same solid yellow and blue colors while the Luminosity graph represents the combined RGB luminosity (effectively, the grayscale equivalent values).

I’ve been adjusting images for decades; long before the graph was publicly introduced and I’ve worked with it every day since so I’d like to weigh-in on rumors and clarify some facts. Once you understand the histogram’s primary function and limitations, you’ll find it to be a solid feedback resource.

The Histogram’s Vertical Lines Defined

RUMOR #1: The histogram is a graphic blueprint of a digital image. The horizontal span represents the image’s tonal range and the vertical lines reflect the contrast of the image; the higher the vertical lines, the more contrast the picture contains.

FACT: The horizontal axis does reflect the image’s tonal range (from the darkest tones to the lightest), though the vertical lines reveal little about its contrast. Actually, the horizontal distribution is what reveals the overall contrast. Tones located mostly on the right reveal very light (or high-key) images while tones favoring the left side are darker (low-key) images.

The extreme right side wall represents white and the extreme left wall of the graph represents solid black. The highest (vertical) peak of the graph merely indicates the highest ratio of pixels containing that particular color tone as it relates to the others. The lowest vertical level on the graph indicates the tone color with the least number of pixels in the image.

Hi Key Low Key Histogram

The left graph represents a high-key or light toned image. The histogram on the right represents a low-key or dark toned image.

Histogram Shape

RUMOR #2: There is a preferred “mountain” shape for a histogram. The ideal shape displays a single peak beginning at the “ground” on one side, reaching upward into a bell shape near the middle, and tapering down to the ground on the other side. An ideal histogram contains information from all channels everywhere, from the left to the right in the graph.

FACT: There are as many histogram shapes as there are images. There is no such thing as a good or bad histogram and there is no such thing as an ideal histogram. Because these graphs reflect each image’s distribution of tones, you’ll be hard-pressed to find any two alike.

Histogram Shapes

Only images containing mostly middle tones will actually display a true bell (mountain) shape on the histogram as in the one top left.

Clipping

RUMOR #3: The extreme left and extreme right sides of the histogram should never hit the “sidewalls” of the graph. If the left or right side hits and travels vertically up the wall, an undesirable effect called “clipping” will occur, indicating that either solid black or solid white “no-detail” areas will be visible in the image. Utilize the warning signs (The Blinkies and triangles) and avoid clipping on either tonal extremes of the graph.

FACT: Depending on whether the image is high-key (medium contrast on a pure white background) or low-key (dramatic lighting with a black background), either side of the mountain may actually resemble a tonal cliff. Real-life lighting dynamics make these wall-climbing graphs quite acceptable. Photos captured against white seamless backdrops are purposely exposed to produce dropout white backgrounds.

Jupiter Air Show - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

The U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds screaming across a very bright mid-summer South Florida sky were captured against totally white clouds. The apparent clipping shown in the histogram accurately reports the totally white clouds.

Tone Distribution

RUMOR #4: Histograms that display significant gaps on either side of the graph should be adjusted to distribute the tones more evenly. A well-shaped histogram is a happy histogram.

FACT: Real life lighting doesn’t demand that every scene contain both deep shadows and bright highlights. Images are sometimes brightened or darkened unnecessarily revealing a typical rookie editing mistake. Many times these bookend extremes establish an emotional mood that would be lost if the images were over-corrected in this manner.

Dark Green Leaves2 - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

This low-key shaded scene contains very little highlight shades at all.

Corrected Dark Green Leaves2 - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

Adjusting the image destroys the rich colors of the low-key scene.

Histogram Gaps

RUMOR #5: The silhouette of the histogram mountain should remain smooth, displaying no gaps or fissures in the mountain shape. These smooth tone transitions are necessary to maintain the photo’s full visual range. Gaps in the histogram’s silhouette indicate an interruption in the gradual tones and will result in banded or posterized stages. These gaps appear because the JPEG image is only 8-bit.

FACT: There are only 256 vertical bars presented in the Histogram. Each horizontal bar represents less than one-half of one percent (0.4%) of the total tonal range (100% / 256 = 0.390625%). Even if a photo contains a very gradual change in tones across a wide area (like an unclouded sky), your eyes will only perceive “banding” if the JPEG image has been degraded by repeated Save functions.

JPEG images contain a maximum of 256 levels (8-bits) of tone between black (solid color) and white (no color). Once JPEG files have been opened and saved a number of times, the number of tone levels can become significantly reduced and tone-banding may occur.

News Journal - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

News Journal Gappy - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

These two histograms appear quite different though the images are very similar. As you can see, “gappy” pictures rarely interrupt the flowing tones in a photo and often clarify more detail.

Full Range Images

RUMOR #6: 8-bit images (256 levels of tone/color per Grayscale/RGB channel) are required for an image to display the full range of detail contained in a high-resolution digital image.

FACT: The human eye is designed to focus on detail in a scene or image. Detail is a product of contrast, and contrast is only noticeable when adjacent colors display significant differences. For the most part, the fewer colors that are displayed, the more obvious are the differences in those colors. This sounds bad but it is actually quite beneficial. It may fly in the face of popular logic but there is a fundamental truth to be recognized. The picture with the least colors (also known as bit depth) is many times the most detailed picture.

Daytona Beach Bandshell 750px - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

Daytona Beach Bandshell 15 Post 750px

The top image contains 256 levels of color per RGB channel; or up to 16,800,000,000 colors. The bottom image contains only 15 levels of color per RGB channel; only 3375 possible colors. This image uses less than 5% of the tones that are used in the top image. Don’t live or die on the issue of bit depth. It is important, but like other issues in life, more isn’t necessarily better.

There is, of course, a reasonable limit to this reduced color observation. Too few levels of color will lose the smooth transitions between colors and thus will also lose detail.

Try this exercise: open a full-range photo in Photoshop and duplicate the image on another layer. Open the Histogram (Window/Histogram). Now select Image > Adjustments > Posterize, enter the number 15 and view the image as a Preview. Watch the Histogram window as you preview the image. The graph will display only 15 vertical columns instead of 256 but the image will look pretty much the same.

The point I’m making is that “gaps” in a normally smooth histogram doesn’t necessarily indicate a visual disaster. Instead, a few gaps might just inject a little more drama in your images.

Smooth Flowing Tones

RUMOR #7: Digital captures should display the highest number of tones possible in order to preserve the smooth continuous tones.

FACT: While nature provides an extreme level of dynamic range and true continuous tone gradation, there is no such thing as “continuous tone” digital images. The word “digital” affirms this statement. Virtually all digital images are comprised of square pixels displaying individual tone values. The perception of continuous tone is an illusion.

Pixel Patch - Shedding Light on the Histogram - How to Use it in Post-Production

These blue pixels were captured from the sky of the Thunderbirds image above. The patch of sky appears as continuous tone in the original picture although the enlarged individual pixels vary quite a bit in value. The top histogram shows the combined channel luminance while the bottom shows individual RGB channel values. It’s complicated.

Exhaustive Reference

RUMOR #8: A Histogram is an exhaustive systematic and statistical accounting of all the internal colors and tones of an image, from dark to light (100% – 0%).

FACT: Each histogram does reveal the relative placement and distribution of all tones and colors, but due to its size, there is a serious limitation to its accuracy. Since editing software histograms are based on a horizontal graph only 256 pixels wide, each representation is a basic overview at best. If the full range of possible colors were truly represented by a single graph, the chart would occupy the wall of a good size room!

HistoMeasurements

Both the top and bottom tonal adjustments were severe enough to create significant gaps in the histogram and to alter the shift of tones in each range, though there are no visible interruptions in the smoothness of each gradation.

Let me break down the numbers. This 256 pixel-wide graph portrays each image’s potential color range using an 8-bit (256 level) interpolation. This means that all 16.8 million possible colors are represented in a mere 256 horizontal point histogram. Tones change levels in 0.4% increments. The graph significantly exaggerates the difference between minor shifts in tonal value.

256 Pixel Histogram2

Human eyes barely perceive a half-percent (0.5%) difference between tones, which is why 256 levels in a JPEG image provides the illusion of continuous tone. This means the histogram uses less than two vertical columns to represent a single percent of change in value.

57 58 percent

The two bottom patches are separated by only 1% in tone, though your eyes may have trouble seeing the difference. The top band shows a gradual change between the two values.

What does all this mean? Quite simply, the histogram delivers a good estimation of overall tone distribution but cannot be relied on for accurate measurement. A few gaps in the graph will rarely be visible to the human eye.

Wrap Up

The histogram is a valuable instrument intended to deliver a quick overview of the makeup and tonal shape of digital images. It was never intended to be a scary reference tool.

Learn to use the histogram to deliver interactive feedback as you work through your editing steps but appreciate the graph for the information it provides; mostly defining the distribution of tones, highlights, and shadows.

What the histogram does not show is whether the image requires internal adjustments to reveal hidden detail. That’s another topic altogether.

Push pixels around and stay focused.

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Avoid Blurry Long Exposure Images with Proper Tripod Setup

05 Apr

A tripod is an important piece of gear for all photographers, but even more so for those who are hooked on shooting long exposure photography at the blue hour like myself (I primarily shoot waterfront cityscapes). Those photos require exposures lasting for minutes with a use of neutral density (ND) filter. Therefore, a sturdy tripod is absolutely essential to keep photos sharp.

Avoid Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare by Setting Your Tripod Low

A sturdy tripod is a must for long exposure photography, as there is no chance at all of shooting sharp photos by hand-holding a camera for minutes.

Get a Best Tripod Within Your Budget

This article is not your ultimate tripod buying guide (dPS already has an excellent article on that here), but let me mention a few brief pointers first.

First of all, unlike your camera body, a tripod isn’t something you will upgrade very often. In fact, a good one could last a lifetime, so it’s advisable to get the best possible tripod within your budget. Here are a few other things to look out for when choosing your tripod.

Load Capacity:

The maximum load capacity of your tripod should be at least twice or preferably three times the maximum weight of your camera body and biggest lens combined. For example, my trusty Manfrotto MT190CXPRO3 Carbon Fiber Tripod supports up to 7kg, which is more than sufficient for my Nikon D610 (850g) and Nikon 18-35mm (f/3.5-4.5) (385g) combined (1.25kg).

Tripod Head:

Your tripod head also has a maximum load capacity, and it should at least match that of your tripod. If your tripod supports up to 7kg, but the head only supports up to 5kg, then the load capacity of the entire tripod system is to be 5kg, as the maximum load comes from the weaker component. For your information, I own the SIRUI K-20X Ballhead, which supports a whopping 25kg.

Tripod Weight:

Decent tripods are commonly made of aluminum or carbon fiber. Both are equally good, but carbon fiber tripods are lighter yet more resistant to vibration (hence they are also pricier, too). My Manfrotto Carbon Fiber Tripod weighs 1.6kg (3.5 lbs.) while its aluminum counterpart the Manfrotto MT190XPRO3 weighs 2kg (4.5 lbs.), with all the other specs being pretty much identical).

Tripod Leg Sections:

While 3-section legs provide a more stable platform, tripods with 4-section legs have a shorter closed (folded up for transportation) length and make it easier to pack into a suitcase when traveling. For example, closed length for my 3-section leg Manfrotto MT190CXPRO3 Carbon Fiber Tripod is 61 cm (24 inches), but its 4-section counterpart the Manfrotto MT190CXPRO4 is only 52 cm (20.5 inches).

If you ask me, I recommend choosing nothing but 3-section tripod legs. I personally won’t compromise stability for convenience. That said, my tripod still fits into my check-in luggage (after taking out the center column). Before purchasing, I even tested it by bringing my luggage to the camera shop!

Tall Isn’t Always Cool

Having a good tripod is one thing, but using it correct way is another. I see way too many photographers fully extending tripod legs even when it’s not necessary. The rule of thumb is that the higher the tripod legs are extended, the less stable it gets, leaving more prone to high winds and undermining your chance of taking sharp photos. The photo below (at Victoria Peak in Hong Kong, with an altitude of 552m) is a good example.

Victoria peak - Avoid Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare by Setting Your Tripod Low

To take blur-free shots here, I kept the tripod low and put the lens through the bars, rather than fully extending the tripod legs and center column to shoot from above the railing.

Instead of fully extending the tripod legs (and even the center column, which is a big NO-NO) to position the camera above the railing, I put the lens through the bars and kept the tripod as low as needed to minimize the risk of vibration.

Actually, I learned this from a previous mistake. I shot at this exact location the previous year but screwed up the opportunity by setting up the tripod too tall (over the railing by extending the center column) in high winds, and none of the photos came out sharp.

Center column - Avoid Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare by Setting Your Tripod Low

Extending the center column in high winds or when shooting long exposure photography is a recipe for a disaster. It’s very unlikely that you’ll be able to capture sharp photos this way.

Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare

Let’s say you’re shooting waterfront cityscapes at blue hour with a few minutes of long exposure at a tourist-centric area (places like Victoria Harbour in Hong Kong, The Bund in Shanghai, etc.) on your holiday. It may be your once-in-a-lifetime trip, and the weather is clear and perfect.

Such places are always crowded especially at sunset and dusk times with herds of tourists flocking to take snaps, selfies, and groupies. Extending all the tripod legs inevitably takes more space on the ground, which has a huge risk of someone accidentally kicking it during long exposure and ruining your potentially epic shot. This is long exposure photographers’ worst nightmare (and happened to me once).

Crowded spot - Avoid Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare by Setting Your Tripod Low

At a crowded photography location like this (Merlion Park in Singapore), keep your tripod setup as low as possible so that it takes less space on the ground and reduces the risk of someone accidentally kicking your tripod legs.

Tripod Alternatives

To avoid such a nightmare, I’m also using a sort of a tripod alternative that helps stabilize my camera setup. A clamp tripod like the Manfrotto 035 Super Clamp without Stud comes in handy at places with high winds or at crowded city shooting locations where you feel worried about someone accidentally kicking your tripod legs.

It’s not that you can use a clamp tripod anywhere you want, as it needs a railing or something that it can be clamped onto. But where possible, this setup can be rock solid (with a load capacity of 15kg) and the resulting long exposure photos are appreciably sharper than those shot using a regular tripod.

Super clamp in use - Avoid Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare by Setting Your Tripod Low

A Super Clamp is like a game changer, it’s small and strong.

Set up clamp - Avoid Long Exposure Photographers’ Worst Nightmare by Setting Your Tripod Low

To mount a DSLR on a Super Clamp, first, plug a separately-sold Manfrotto 208HEX 3/8-Inch Camera Mounting Platform Adapter (or a cheaper alternative Manfrotto 037 Reversible Short Stud) into a Super Clamp socket and secure it with the double lock system. Then mount a tripod head with DSLR on the mounting platform adapter, just like you do with your regular tripod.

Conclusion

I hope these tips help you avoid making the same mistakes I did. Don’t blindly follow the mantra that says, “Extend your tripod and place the viewfinder at your eye level” (you’ve probably heard about that before!).

There’s nothing wrong with setting up your tripod low and bending down. This increases your chance of capturing sharp long exposure photos in high winds and also prevents your tripod legs from getting accidentally kicked.

If you have any other tips or experiences to share, please do so in the comments below.

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Tips for Quick Photo Editing in the Field

04 Apr

In today’s world of fast and super fast consumption of everything, perhaps photography and photographers are an anomaly in that we obsess over editing and over-editing our photos until the cows come home (figuratively speaking of course)! But there are some situations where quick photo editing and speed are our friends.

For example, say you are traveling on an adventure of a lifetime but still want to keep your followers and/or your community engaged and up to date on all your adventures by way of images. Or if you have just come back from a client photoshoot and want to send some sneak peek images so that your clients get excited about what is to come in the next few weeks.

Albert Hall Jaipur India at Sunset with pigeons - Tips for Quick Photo Editing in the Field

A quick edit of an image as I was traveling around India for 10 days.

In situations like these, having a process to edit your photos quickly yet efficiently and on-point with your photographic aesthetics is key. Luckily there are a few elements that can be adjusted to achieve a clean edited look. These sliders are universal in that they are available with almost any editing software available be it Lightroom (as seen below), Photoshop, or even smartphone editing software like Snapseed and VSCO.

Follow along with this video

In the following video, I share some quick and easy editing tips for times when you are in a crunch.

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One quick tip for a fast edit in the field is to start with an image that has good bones, to begin with. Essentially what this means is that you try to get the images as close to your vision for the final outcome, straight out of the camera.

So slow down and really think through elements like exposure, composition, tonality, etc., right as you are taking the image. This will definitely help speed up your editing even more.

Golden Gate Bridge with a pink hue at sunrise before editing straight out of camera -

A clean straight out of camera shot that was almost what I wanted to achieve.

Karthika Gupta Golden Gate Bridge with a pink hue at sunrise after a quick edit

A few minor adjustments to amplify the pink/orange hues for a quick edit.

Conclusion

I hope these editing tips were useful. Keep in mind, the whole point of this exercise is to make editing in the field easy and quick.

You can always come back and re-edit those images to perfection when you have the time to spend hours on a single image (we have likely all been guilty of doing that at some point or the other – it is called the photographer’s dilemma!!).

Do you have any other quick photo editing tips you’d like to share? Please do so in the comments below.

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Fotophire Photo Editing Toolkit

04 Apr

If you’re looking for a good and reliable photo editing tool, Fotophire  has you covered. It provides you with a host of interesting features that help you turn your photos into beautiful works of art. Fotophire is simple and easy to use. It has an intuitive user interface packed with functionalities both beginner and pro users can draw on to Continue Reading

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Review of the New Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Holster

04 Apr

As more camera harnesses and holsters hit the market, it seems that traditional camera straps are becoming a thing of the past. The latest takes the form of the Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Holster.

Designed by professional landscape photographer Andy Cotton, this holster is made for the active photographer. The compact carrying system attaches your camera to any bag for easy access while keeping your hands free and your gear safe. The G3 Strapshot launched in October 2017 and I tested it out to see if it was a viable camera holster option. Here’s what I found.

What’s in the box

The G3 Strapshot Holster is available in two color choices: Charcoal Grey and Realtree Xtra Camouflage. The latter color is intended for wildlife photographers wishing to blend in with a variety of habitats.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

I opted for the neutral Charcoal Grey option and appreciated its tough yet stylish synthetic canvas material. The product arrives in an accessory-laden box. Here’s what you get:

  • Velcro-Wrap holster
  • Mounting strap
  • Hand strap
  • Quick release safety tether
  • High-Impact split ring
  • Two sets of camera attachment pieces (an aluminum camera hub and rubber washer with screw)
  • One set of tripod mount attachment pieces
  • Allen key (to tighten screws)
  • 3-year warranty against manufacturing defects

Setting up

Given all of the accessories in the box, one of the best inclusions was a visual setup guide. You should absolutely read the instructions at least twice as the initial setup can take some time.

One thing to note is that you don’t necessarily need to use all of the accessories in the box. For example, the hand strap seems optional as you could use the holster just fine without it.

Attach the holster to your bag

Initiate set up the system by attaching the Velcro-wrap holster to your bag or belt of choice. Big Velcro flaps make it quick and easy to attach to straps or belts of just about any thickness. You’ll notice a long strap up top known as the Top Tether, which is adjustable and can be looped through the top handle of your bag for extra security.

Mount attachments to your camera

Next, attach the aluminum camera hub and rubber washer to your camera’s tripod mount. This is when you can also add the hand strap as part of it attaches to the camera in the same area. Secure everything using the included screw and Allen key.

If you added the hand strap, finish attaching it by looping the velcro through your camera’s built-in metal loop (where you would normally attach a neck strap).

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

Finally, the camera is secured one last time via the bottom quick release camera tether. This strap attaches to your camera using the included High Impact split ring. You can also secure the tether through your camera’s built-in metal loops if they are big enough.

Now you’re ready to secure the camera to the G3 Strapshot Holster. Simply slide the camera in at 90 degrees and twist to lock it into place. Your camera is now secured to the holster.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

What works well

Lots of extra security

First off, I greatly appreciate the extra security build-ins factored into the G3 Strapshot Holster. Having used many other “alternative” camera holding systems, I’ve had my fair share of them fail, resulting in broken cameras and lenses. The G3 Strapshot gives you not one but several extra tethers to make you feel like your camera is ultra secure.

You get a hand strap

The inclusion of the hand strap was a nice surprise. Even though it doesn’t seem absolutely necessary in order to use the G3 Strapshot it’s a compact, well-built accessory that you can use on its own.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

The hand strap in action.

Solid construction

Finally, the overall construction of the G3 Strapshot Holster is very solid and feels like it would hold up well over time. The Velcro-Wrap holster is made of durable canvas, and the big flaps make it very easy to add and remove from a bag.

Compare that to other holsters that might be smaller, but require tedious fiddling with small screws and knobs just to secure it to your bag.

What could be improved

Too many accessories

As you can probably tell from the summarized setup instructions above, there are lots of pieces to the G3 Strapshot Holster. This can be initially very overwhelming and a potential problem if you ever wish to use your camera without the holster. The same problem of having too much stuff also applies to the extra straps and tethers included with the holster. Yes, they give you added security, but at the cost of a more bulky rig.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

The awkward fit on small cameras

Initially, I tried the G3 Strapshot on a Sony a6300 with the kit lens attached. Even after following the instructions, the camera didn’t securely lock into place. That is, it felt locked into the G3 Strapshot’s proper mount and wouldn’t fall out, but the camera itself freely spun around in circles. After calling Cotton Carrier directly to see if this was an issue, they insist it is part of their design.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

Small cameras such as the Sony a6300 with 16-50mm kit lens tend to sit at an awkward angle, probably due to not enough weight to hold them in place properly.

Once I tried the G3 Strapshot on my bigger, heavier Canon 5D Mark III with a 24-70mm f/2.8 lens attached, it felt like a more secure connection. While it was still possible to spin the camera around even when in the mount, the weight of the camera held in place.

Conclusion: the G3 Strapshot seems to work better with DSLRs or heavier cameras. It’s not necessarily a good option for small point and shoots or really compact mirrorless cameras with small lenses attached. Also on that note, the hand strap also feels too big when attached to smaller cameras, but it fits my DSLR perfectly.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

Best used on a backpack (or upright surface)

Cotton Carrier’s website claims that the G3 Strapshot Holster will “fasten to the strap of a backpack, sling style bag, or even your belt.” While it’s entirely true that the holster can fasten to all of those straps, it isn’t necessarily comfortable in each scenario.

I tried attaching the holster to my Think Tank TurnStyle Sling Bag. Everything secured properly, but it was very uncomfortable to wear the bag with the holster attached to a strap running diagonally across my body. I also found it challenging to remove my camera from the holster since it has to line up in a certain way that is hard to do from a diagonal angle.

Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Camera Holster

In Conclusion

Overall, it’s tough to give the Cotton Carrier G3 Strapshot Holster a conclusive rating. On one hand, it seems perfect if you’re shooting with a heavy DSLR and wearing a backpack. But if you’re attempting a more compact setup such as a small mirrorless camera and a bag other than a backpack, it leaves much to be desired.

Overall rating: 7/10 – It would be a 9/10 if I was still shooting primarily with a DSLR and a backpack, but a 7/10 when using a mirrorless with a sling bag (my current go-to setup).

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How to Get the Most from Lightroom Presets

03 Apr

Where should I start when talking about Lightroom presets? The subject has been covered so many different ways by so many different writers that at times even I think there’s nothing left to say. Or is there?

Most of us already know that using presets in our photo editing workflow speeds up processing. I mean, who couldn’t use a little help now and again especially when you’re attempting to wade through six or seven hundred images from that last wedding where the groom couldn’t stop blinking.

Not only that, but perhaps my favorite part about using presets is the creative jumpstart they can give my work.

How to Get the Most from Lightroom Presets

Like I said, you already know all this, right? So instead of droning on about how to make presets or export them or download them, we’re going to discuss a seldom mentioned topic; how to get the most out of the presets you already have and use.

Designate Import Presets

Lightroom presets are surprisingly versatile and can be applied to some extent literally during every phase of your processing in Lightroom. One of the most underutilized applications for Develop Presets happens at the very first phase of editing, importing the image.

Any Develop Preset you might have in your processing treasure chest can be applied with the click of the mouse to each image you import.

Do you have a lot of photos from that Blinker wedding I mentioned earlier? Try making a preset that works exclusively for each sequence of photos. Do you find yourself using similar contrast or clarity all the time? Apply the appropriate preset upon import to save time later. It’s almost too easy not to do.

How to Get the Most from Lightroom Presets

And import presets aren’t limited to the just the develop variety either. Perhaps even more useful are metadata and keyword presets that can be applied at the same time. You can do that directly below the develop preset drop-down on the import screen.

Avoid Conflicting Presets

When I’m not off making photographs on some remote mountaintop you can generally find me sitting at the computer making presets. As the lead developer of presets for Contrastly.com I’ve single-handedly manufactured over 1,200 presets for Lightroom.

Even after making so many I still sometimes run into the hair-rippingly frustrating situation, when one of my presets overrides edits that I’ve already made to a photo. What usually causes this is when I forget to uncheck an edit box I didn’t adjust in the “Save Preset” window when saving my new preset.

How to Get the Most from Lightroom Presets

In order to save yourself a little grief, always – and I mean always – remember that when you make a new preset only save (check off) the edits you’ve actually made. NEVER (requisite shouting) leave a box checked even if the value is zero.

The reason for this is that even if an adjustment slider is set to zero checking the box will save that slider to zero in your preset. This means that if you have a preset that only affects the tone curve and you leave all the boxes checked all the other edits you’ve made will be reset to default by the Lightroom Preset. Sad times.

Don’t Stop at the Presets

Like I said earlier…I’ve made a lot of presets and I hope that they help people get the most out of their photos. Yet if there’s one thing that I sincerely hope my presets don’t do is become an endpoint.

Presets are a ladder. Don’t simply apply a preset and hope for the best. Most presets are intended to be post-processing workhorses and/or springboards for your creativity. In either case, don’t stop at the preset. Even though the stars sometimes align and a preset might hit the bullseye with a single click, don’t be afraid to change things around.

How to Get the Most from Lightroom Presets

As you test out presets feel free to update the settings or create a brand new mutant preset based on the edits you see before you. Some of my personal favorites the ones I’ve engineered to simulate expired film and vintage cinema.

Almost every time I narcissistically employ one of my own presets I find myself adjusting and tweaking until I have something completely new that I end up saving as a fresh preset. The process becomes cyclic. This is how great presets are born.

Final Reminders…

Lightroom presets are an old standby in the post-processing world. Oddly enough, not everyone uses them to their full potential. Making, saving or downloading Lightroom presets is only the first act in a great play.

Remember the value of import presets for speeding up your editing from the beginning. When making your own presets always remember to select only the aspects of the development that you’ve adjusted and not any zeroed out sliders. Don’t be afraid to change presets, especially the ones you’ve paid good money for, in order for them to better fit your own creative vision.

And most importantly, never allow yourself to simply stop at the presets…well, most of the time. Get the most out your presets by making them your own. Allow your presets do most of the heavy lifting if need be, while always following your own direction.

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Late March Paddling with 2018 All Star SUP by Starboard

03 Apr

Late March on Beaver Pond in Arapaho Bend Natural Area near Fort Collins. The lake was ice free for about two weeks. No green colors yet. Geese are still swimming, but starting to settle down on two islands. Muskrats are […]
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Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

03 Apr

“Don’t shoot at midday!” How many times have you heard that advice? And that you should only shoot during the Golden Hour?

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

While it is true the grandest landscape vistas prefer the sun lower on the horizon, there is no reason to pack up your camera and take a nap just because the sun is high. Midday may not be ideal for some types of landscape photography, but there are plenty of high-quality photos to be shot.

NOTE: All photos in this article were taken between 10 am and 3 pm.

Details

Details, details, details. Getting in close and ignoring the wide panoramas during midday will open a new world of possibilities.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Close-up prayer wheels – Nepal – shot at midday under cover so the light was coming from the side.

It’s a great time for macro photography as there is ample light for the smaller subjects (and the lenses used to capture them). Beyond macro, look for snippets of a scene that will help describe your subject alongside the Golden Hour shots.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Detail of mosaic tiles with metal door close-up – Morocco.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Close-up of sailing yacht rope and winch – USA – Washington – Bellingham

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Plumeria flowers shot outdoors.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Skimmer and strainer – India.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Patterns

Barring the grand vista, looks for patterns in your landscapes. Or in any subject, for that matter.

In my opinion, looking for patterns changes something in your mind. While patterns are certainly artistic in nature, for me they switch on my analytical side and help me to see a scene differently.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Rippled sand in desert – Oman.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Bridge railing – Bhutan.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Kayaks kept in a row – USA – Colorado.

Use a Diffuser

A diffuser will work wonders for those harsh shadows found at midday. You don’t have to drop a fortune on the coolest model as even tracing paper can be used to defuse the light falling on small objects.

The best diffuser is one I like to call, “passing clouds”. I love to have some light clouds in the middle of the day as it brings an even light to subjects.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Close-up of a whale swimming in the sea – USA – Alaska

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

View of people visiting Harmandir Sahib temple – India.

Here’s an example of some rather large diffusers (used for the next image, with the help of some flash).

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Use Your Flash

Whether it is the flash that is built into your camera or an external unit (on the hotshoe or off), adding even more light to a scene might seem counterintuitive at first. Yet adding that light can balance the existing light and remove shadows.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

For one thing, the extra light your strobe puts out is probably not going to outshine the sun, I hope. This means the highlights in a scene will hold steady while that extra light gets up under hat brims, eye sockets or any other areas with shadows.

You may need to play around with your strobe’s power (either directly in manual mode or by using your camera’s flash exposure compensation) to get the balance just right.

Star Bursts with a Small Aperture

Have you ever seen those shots with the sun high in the sky and half a dozen (or more) rays emitting from the center of it? Have you wondered how to get such a shot?

It’s really quite easy. Switch to Aperture Priority mode and close down your aperture. That’s it! The more closed the aperture, the more those rays are accentuated, Now all you have to do is frame an interesting composition.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Here are a few more tips on starbursts and sun flares.

Watch Your Angle

Some people believe that once the sun is high in the sky, directly overhead, the light is all the same. This is not true.

While there may be a 15-minute span of time when the light really is the same from any angle, the rest of the time you can find better light by slightly changing your camera angle or position.

Take a look at these sun-dried peppers from Bhutan. Coming upon the peppers I noticed their vibrant red color, giving a clear warning about the spices within. But the first shot was not the best.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

When I moved around to the other side of the peppers, that slight change in the sun’s angle (or, more accurately, my relation to the sun’s angle) made all the difference in a capturing the essence of the peppers.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Look for Unique Angles

If the sun is coming in from high overhead, why not get up higher and shoot with it at your back? All these shots are from a third story hotel window looking down on street life in Kathmandu, Nepal.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Some Landscapes Still Work

Photography is certainly not a one-size-fits-all endeavor. While many landscape photographers will tell you there is nothing good to shoot in the middle of the day, there are areas of the planet which lend themselves nicely to wide landscapes in bright light.

I am thinking specifically of the higher places, like Nepal, Bhutan and the Andes, to name a few. The same applies to landscapes as to those peppers mentioned above. Sometimes all it takes is turning around to notice the sun is slightly better in one direction than another. Here are some examples of midday light from around the world.

Tips for What to Shoot at Midday

Yellowstone National Park

Seljalandfoss, Iceland

Mission Ridge Ski Area, Washington, USA

Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

Washington State Ferry, USA

Mani stones and the Himalayas – Nepal

The time of year can also help. In places like Iceland in the winter, the midday sun is still very low in the sky as compared to the summer.

Conclusion

I agree that grand landscapes with amazing light are usually not found at midday. The Golden Hour holds its name for good reason. But that doesn’t mean you need to hide inside and stop shooting when the clock approaches noon!

Get out there and look for the type of subjects you like, but in midday light. Experiment and see what you can make come alive while other photographers wait for sunset.

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