Category: Photography

  • How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits [video]

    The post How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this week’s video from COOPH Master Chrissie White, you’ll learn how to use five lighting scenarios to create expert studio portraits.

    Here are the 5 tips:

    1. Natural Light and Reflector

    Place your model next to window and place reflector on the opposite side of the face to create balanced light. For even light, shoot when the light isn’t coming directly through the window.

    2. Side lighting

    Side lighting creates a moody atmosphere for your image.

    Place one light on to one side of the model and black card on the opposite side. This casts a shadow on one side of your models face so the light is split down the middle. if you don’t want it too moody, place a white card on the opposite side instead. That way the models face won’t be in complete shadow.

    3. Butterfly lighting

    Butterfly Lighting is commonly used for beauty lighting. It is an even light on the model. Place the light in front of the model and above them. You can also use a reflector underneath their face to even out the light.

    4. Split lighting

    This lighting is dramatic and flashy. Great for shooting athletes and fashion models. Place 2 lights approx 45 degrees behind the model. To soften and make less dramatic, add a butterfly light to the front of the model.

    5. Backlighting

    Place your light source behind the model to create a hair or rim light. Place another light in front of model or a white card to add some fill to remove the shadow from the face.

    Add colored gels to the light to add color and drama. Use cellophane or gels. Be careful of hot lights though.

    TIP: Look in the eyes of models for ‘catch-lights’ to see what type of lighting a photographer used.

     

    You may also find these articles helpful:

    One Speedlight Portrait Lighting Tutorial

    6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Evey Photographer Should Know

    10 Ways to take Stunning Portraits

    How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits

    Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash

    How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut

     

     

    The post How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is light trails!

    Tree Top Circus © Caz Nowaczyk

    Your photos can include light trails from vehicles, light painting, or any other moving light source. Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Some Inst-piration from some Instagrammers:

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Johan Weesie (@jowie_pictures) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Carlos Bolivar (@photo_charles) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Om Prakash Sethia (@om_prakash_sethia) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by RECYCLED PHOTOS (@recycleartz) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Phutter Blog (@phutterblog) on

     

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting Light Trails

    How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night

    Stacking Light Trails for Night Photography Special Effects

    How to Create Dynamic Photos of Car Light Trails

    How to Photograph Light Trails from the Back Seat of a Car

    7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

    How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography

    Long Exposure Photography 101 – How to Create the Shot

     

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

     

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSLighttrails to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

     

    Feature Photo by Alen Rojnic on Unsplash

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Customize Your Lightroom Workspace for Better Workflow

    The post How to Customize Your Lightroom Workspace for Better Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

    Although it is sometimes overshadowed by its powerful cousin Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom is a robust post-processing program in its own right.

    Lightroom is designed with simplicity in mind, however, it still offers a lot of options and can be confusing to new users.

    This article assumes you have a basic familiarity with the appearance of the various panels in the Lightroom, and gives you some tips on how to customize your Lightroom workspace for better workflow and productivity.

    Lightroom Workspace in Grid View-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    The Lightroom Workspace in Grid View

    Modules

    Lightroom is organized into seven Modules: Library, Develop, Map, Book, Slideshow, Print, and Web.

    You can find these modules in the uppermost right-hand corner of your screen. This panel or bar is called the Module Picker.

    Customize Lightroom Workspace-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Each of these modules contains a set of tools that work specifically within that module.

    For example, if you want to design and print contact sheets of select images from a shoot, you would navigate to the Print module, where you would find the required tools to do that.

    You will find, however, that there are some modules that you rarely (or even never) use.

    Most users of Lightroom spend the majority of their time in the Library and Develop Modules. Therefore, Lightroom gives you the option to hide these modules from view if you wish.

    To set up which modules you would like to remain visible, right click on the module panel to bring up a pop-up menu:

    Module Panels in Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    The panels that are visible are noted with a checkmark. To make the module invisible, simply click on it to uncheck it in the menu.

    For example, I never use the Book and Slideshow modules, so I have those checked off in my own Lightroom workspace.

    The missing modules are still available under the Window menu; you can use keyboard shortcuts to open them.

    Keep in mind that if you do this, Lightroom will automatically add the missing module back to the Module Picker.

    Window View Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Panels

    Lightroom Panels-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    In the above image, the following are noted:

    A. Library Filter bar
    B. Image Display area
    C. Identity Plate area
    D. Panels displaying photos
    E. Filmstrip
    F. Module Picker
    G. Panels for working with metadata, keywords, adjustments
    H. Toolbar

    There are four panels in each of the Lightroom Modules. Only two panels – the Module panel and Filmstrip panel – appear in all of the different modules in Lightroom.

    For example, the Library module has a top Module Panel, the Navigation panel is located on the left-hand side. The right-side panel is mostly for Metadata, while the bottom panel is where the Filmstrip appears.

    Develop Module has Develop and Preset panels instead of Navigation and Metadata.

    Tabs are small panels inside of panels.

    Below are the various tabs in the Develop panel in the Develop Module in Lightroom:

    Tabs in Develop Module Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    You can customize your workspace to display only the panels you want.

    • To open or close all the panels in a group, hit -> Command-click (Mac) or Ctrl-click(Windows).
    • To open or close one panel at a time, simply Option-click (Mac) or Alt-click (Windows) on the panel header.
    • To show or hide both side panel groups choose Window ->Panel -> Toggle Side Panels, or press the Tab key.
    • To hide all of the panels, including the side panels, the Module Picker and the Filmstrip, choose Window -> Panels -> Toggle All Panels, or press Shift-Tab.

    Lightroom Panels-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    If you don’t use a panel often, you can hide it form view: Control-Click (Mac) or Right-Click (Windows) on any panel header in the group and choose the panel name.

    Change the Screen Mode

    You can also change the screen display to hide the title bar, menus, and panels.

    Choose -> Window -> Screen Mode, and choose an option from the drop-down menu.

    Full Screen Mode Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    When in Normal, Full Screen with Menubar, or Full Screen Mode, press the F key to cycle through them.

    If you’re on a Mac OS, note that Full Screen mode and Full Screen and Hide Panels mode both hide the Dock. If you don’t see the Minimize, Maximize, or Close buttons for the application, press the F key once or twice until they appear.

    Press Shift-Tab and then the F key to display the panels and menu bar.

    • Command+Option+F (Mac) or Ctrl+Alt+F (Windows) to switch to Normal screen mode from Full Screen with Menubar or Full Screen Mode.
    • Shift+Command+F (Mac) or Shift-Ctrl+F (Windows) hides the title bar, menus, and panels.

    To dim or hide the Lightroom Classic CC workspace, choose -> Window then -> Lights Out, then choose an option. Press the F key to cycle through the options.

    Identity Plate

    You can brand your Lightroom with the logo of your photography business through the Identity Plate Setup.

    It’s not going to impact your workflow in any way, but this is a cool customization you can make to appear more professional when working with clients and utilizing tethered capture.

    Identity Plate Editor in Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    To access the Identity Plate Setup click on a Mac -> Lightroom and choose -> Identity Plate Setup from the drop-down menu. For Windows, go to -> Edit and choose -> Identity Plate Setup.

    Under Identity Plate, choose -> Personalized and Custom.

    Click on -> Use a Graphical Identity Plate and then -> Locate File to navigate to wherever you have your logo saved on your computer.

    However, if you don’t have a logo, you can still customize the text that appears in Identity Plate by changing the font, size of the font, and the color of the module names.

    To sum up

    A customized workspace can help you improve your workflow and therefore efficiency when working in Lightroom.

    Hopefully, some of these tips will help you navigate Lightroom a bit more easily and has given you some ideas on setting up the interface in the way that works for you.

    The post How to Customize Your Lightroom Workspace for Better Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


    Digital Photography School

  • 9 Pioneering Women Who Shaped Photographic History

    The post 9 Pioneering Women Who Shaped Photographic History appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

    The history of women photographers dates back to the beginnings of photography itself. Yet while names like Ansel Adams and Man Ray have floated to the top of the photographic vernacular, the contribution of women in photography has been diluted or erased from history altogether. In this, photography is no less guilty than other forms of art. Yet there is no doubt that the omission of women, both unintentionally and intentionally, leaves a gaping hole in the narrative of photography.

    In this article, I turn the spotlight on women who shaped photographic history. These 9 women (and many more) asserted their presence through both technical and artistic ingenuity. Here is a brief recount of their stories.

    Julia Margaret Cameron (1815 – 1879)

    A portrait by Julia Margaret Cameron. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

    Julia Margaret Cameron received her first camera as a gift from her daughter in 1863. Cameron threw herself into photography, crafting portraits and staged scenes inspired by literature, mythology, and religion.

    Cameron rejected the meticulous photo-reality sought after by her contemporaries. Instead, she favored a dreamlike softness saying “…when focusing and coming to something which, to my eye, was very beautiful, I stopped there instead of screwing on the lens to the more definite focus which all other photographers insist upon.”

    The revolving door of luminaries in Cameron’s home provided her with ample opportunity to produce piercing character studies of some of the most famous people of the period. Her portraits represented some of the earliest examples of art meeting formal practice.

    Cameron was a prolific photographer. Over 16 years, Cameron created more than 1,200 images – a staggering amount considering the laborious process involved to create each finished piece.

    Mary Steen (1856 – 1939)

    Mary Steen excelled at indoor photography. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

    Mary Steen was a photographer and feminist from Denmark, Scandinavia. She excelled at indoor photography, a particularly difficult field due to the lack of electrically powered light sources available at the time.

    In 1888, Stern became Denmark’s first female court photographer, a role that involved photographing both Danish and British royals. In 1891, she became the first woman on the board of the Danish Photographic Society.

    Steen was also a member of the Board of Directors for the Danish Women’s Society. Together with Julie Laurberg, she photographed leading figures in the Danish women’s movement. In 1896, Steen started working as a photographer to Alexandra, Princess of Wales, the later Queen of England.

    Steen encouraged other women to take up photography. She campaigned for better conditions at work, including eight day’s holiday and a half day off on Sundays. Leading by example, she treated her staff well, paying them fair wages.

    Imogen Cunningham (1883 – 1976)

    “Succulent” by Imogen Cunningham. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

    Known for her botanical, nude and industrial photography, Imogen Cunningham was one of America’s first professional female photographers.

    After studying photographic chemistry at university, Cunningham opened a studio in Seattle. Cunningham drew acclaim for her portraiture and pictorial work. Subsequently, she invited other women to join her, publishing an article in 1913 called “Photography as a Profession for Women.”

    Cunningham never confined herself to a single genre or style of photography. In 1915 Cunningham’s then-husband, Roi Partridge posed for a series of nude photographs. The nudes achieved critical appraise, despite being a taboo subject for a female artist at the time.

    A two-year study of botanical subjects resulted in Cunningham’s opulently lit magnolia flower. She also turned her lens toward industry and fashion.

    It was Cunningham who said “which of my photographs is my favorite? The one I’m going to take tomorrow.”

    Gertrude Fehr (1895 – 1996)

    An example of solarization, a darkroom technique used by the New Photography movement in Paris that can now be emulated in Photoshop

    After studying at the Bavarian School of Photography, Gertrude Fehr apprenticed with Edward Wasow. In 1918, Fehr opened a studio for portraiture and theater photography.

    During 1933, the political climate forced Fehr to leave Germany with Jules Fehr. Settling in Paris, the couple opened the Publi-phot school of photography. The school specialized in advertising photography, a pioneering program at the time.

    Fehr participated in the New Photography movement in Paris. Exhibiting artists alongside Man Ray, Fehr explored the artistic boundaries of photography, producing photograms, photomontages, and solarized prints.

    During the 1930s, Gertrude and Jules Fehr moved to Switzerland. There, they opened a photography school in Lausanne, now known as the Ecole Photographique de la Suisse Romande.

    Fehr gave classes in portrait, fashion, advertising and journalistic photography at the school until 1960 when she dedicated herself to freelance portraiture. Both her teaching and photography paved the way for contemporary photographic art.

    Trude Fleischmann (1895 – 1990)

    Trude Fleischmann with her work. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

    After studying art in Paris and Vienna, Trude Fleishmann apprenticed with Dora Kallmus and Hermann Schieberth.

    Fleischmann opened a studio when she was 25. Working with glass plates and artificial light, Fleishmann created deftly diffused portraits of celebrities. Her studio quickly became a hub for Viennese cultural life.

    In 1925, Fleishmann took a nude series of dancer Claire Bauroff. Displayed at a theater in Berlin, the images were confiscated by police, winning Fleischmann international fame.

    The Anschluss forced Fleischmann to leave the country in 1938. After settling in New York in 1940, she established a new studio where she resumed photographing celebrities, dancers and intellectuals including Albert Einstein and Eleanor Roosevelt. Her introspective and atmospheric portraiture is viewed as art suffused with technical prowess.

    Dorothea Lange (1895 – 1965)

    Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother”. Image courtesy of Wikipedia

    Known for her work documenting the depression, American photographer Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother” became a symbol of hardship and resilience in the face of economic collapse.

    The majority of Lange’s early studio work centered around portraits of the social elite of San Francisco. With the commencement of the Great Depression, however, Lange transitioned from the studio to the streets.

    Applying techniques she had developed for photographing portraits of wealthy clientele, Lange’s unapologetic studies led to her employment with the Farm Security Administration. There, she continued to document the suffering of victims of the depression. Soon, her powerful images became an icon of the era.

    Described in her own words, Lange used the camera as “…an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera”. Her unflinching study of the human condition in the 20th century shaped photojournalism in a way that continues to resonate today.

    Grete Stern (1904 – 1999)

    A self-portrait by Grete Stern. Image courtesy of Wikipedia

    Originally a graphic designer, Grete Stern studied under Walter Peterhans in Berlin where she and Ellen Auerbach opened a well-regarded studio, ringl+pit.

    Emigrating to England in 1933, Stern then traveled to Argentina with her husband, Horacio Coppola. They opened an exhibition literary magazine Sur hailed as “the first serious exhibition of photographic art in Buenos Aires.”

    By the mid-1940s, Stern was well established in Buenos Aires. She worked with women’s magazine Idilio, illustrating reader-submitted dreams through photomontage. Stern incorporated feminist critiques into her pieces which became popular with readers.

    In 1964, Stern traveled Northeast Argentina, producing over 800 photos of Aboriginals in the region. The body of work is considered to be the most significant Argentinian record of its time.

    “Photography has given me great happiness,” said Stern in 1992. “I learned a lot and [said] things I wanted to say and show”.

    Ylla (1911 – 1955)

    Ylla photographing a toucan. Image courtesy of Wikipedia – ©Pryor Dodge at the English Wikipedia [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)]

    Animal photographer, Ylla (Camilla Koffler) originally studied sculpture under Petar Palavicini at the Belgrade Academy of Fine Arts, moving to Paris to continue her studies in 1931.

    Working as an assistant to photographer Ergy Landau, Ylla began photographing animals on holiday. Encouraged by Landau, Ylla started exhibiting, opening a studio dedicated to pet photography shortly after.

    Ylla’s first major book, Petits et Grands was published in 1938. That same year she collaborated with British evolutionary biologist Julian Huxley for his book Animal Language.

    During 1941 Ylla immigrated to the United States. She opened a new studio in New York, photographing a miscellany of animals from lions and tigers to birds and mice.

    In 1955, Ylla fell from a jeep while photographing a bullock cart race in India. She was fatally wounded. Her New York Times obituary read that Ylla “…was generally considered the most proficient animal photographer in the world.”

    Olive Cotton (1911 – 2003)

    “Teacup Ballet” by Olive Cotton. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

    Describing her process as “drawing with light”, Olive Cotton’s Teacup Ballet has become synonymous with her artful command over light and shadow.

    After studying English and Mathematics at university, Cotton pursued photography by joining childhood-friend Max Dupain at his studio in Sydney.

    Besides assisting Dupain, Cotton also perused her own work. Cotton and Dupain were married briefly and she ran the studio in his absence during the war. She was one of the few professional women photographers in Australia at the time.

    In 1944, Cotton married Ross McInerney, moving to a property near Cowra, NSW. Cotton gave up work as a professional photographer until 1964 when she opened a small photographic studio.

    In the early 1980s, Cotton reprinted negatives she had taken over the past forty years or more. The resulting retrospective exhibition in Sydney in 1985 earned her recognition as a key figure in the development of Australian photography.

    Conclusion

    It’s impossible to cover the sheer number of women that have embodied the tenacity and creativity of a photographer’s spirit in a single article. With this piece, however, I hope to have encapsulated some of the resolves of the generations of women who have shaped photographic history. And although we aren’t all the way to achieving equality yet, thanks to the female photographers of the past and present, we’re a lot closer than we used to be.

     

    The post 9 Pioneering Women Who Shaped Photographic History appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Tips for Photographing Festivals

    The post 5 Tips for Photographing Festivals appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    Goroka Show, Papa New Guinea. © Jeremy Flint

    The performance, color and wonderful crowds that are the signature features of festivals make them an excellent subject for photography. Festivals are great organized events worth attending and can occur anywhere at any time.

    A festival is defined as ‘a day or time of the year when people have a holiday from work and celebrate some special event.’ Festivals could be a day or period set aside for celebration to commemorate an anniversary or other significant events. A festival may also occur for feasting, such as religious events or for performances of music, theatre, and dance.

    These special events are usually held periodically and are designed to entertain, providing a fantastic opportunity to capture some interesting images.

    Consider if there is a festival or event you have always wanted to attend? Whether it’s at home or abroad, it will be sure to offer an array of colorful and compelling subjects and scenes.

    Here are five 5 tips for photographing festivals:

    1. Shoot local festivals

    © Jeremy Flint

    You don’t have to travel long distances to visit festivals. Find an event that is going on near you and head out with your camera to capture it. Often festivals are seasonal, so time your visit to a festival that takes place during your favorite time of the year such as summer or winter. Arrive early for the chance to get your bearings and find a suitable place to see and photograph the event.

    Remember festivals in towns and cities can cause built up traffic, and road closures may restrict access. Allow extra time to get to the event and be observant to ensure your gear stays safe in crowded situations.

    © Jeremy Flint

    2. Shoot festivals around the world

    If you are traveling abroad, consider visiting a festival during your vacation. Some incredible festivals are celebrated around the world including the Holi festival in India, the Rio Carnival, the Goroka and Mount Hagen shows of Papa New Guinea and Oktoberfest in Germany. They offer the chance to see a unique and varied side to the people of the place you’re visiting.

    Goroka Show, Papa New Guinea © Jeremy Flint

    There is generally a great atmosphere during these events, and the costume-clad festival participants are dressed to impress and hopefully won’t mind having their photograph taken.

    Festivals involving cultures, such as those in Papa New Guinea and parts of Asia, brilliantly combine local culture with exciting tribal traditions. I photographed this image at the Goroka show in Papa New Guinea where local groups demonstrate their unique song and dance.

    Goroka Show, Papa New Guinea © Jeremy Flint

    Try and get a bit closer to the action and capture the variety of activities taking place. Alternatively, if you are with friends and family and prefer to remain in one place, wait for the action to come to you.

    3. Add color

    Festivals such as carnivals, street parties, and fetes create endless opportunities for lively, colorful images. Since everyone taking part in the celebrations are enjoying the occasion, they are happier than usual to have their picture taken. You can take advantage of this by capturing interesting poses and joyous people.

    Be sure to look out for vibrant individuals in which to point your lens. Take portraits of cheerful revelers and capture the participants in their colorful clothing.

    © Jeremy Flint

    4. Capture action

    © Jeremy Flint

    At festivals, things happen fast. With parades and processions, attendees move quickly, so be ready to capture the action. With this in mind, I recommend you use a fast shutter speed to capture any aspects you find interesting. Try experimenting with different shutter speeds of 1/100th of a second and above.

    A guy falling off a horse, Llanthony Show, Brecon Beacons, Wales © Jeremy Flint

    5. Relax and enjoy it

    Don’t get hung up on getting the perfect shot. Take time out from the photography, and you can enjoy it more. Spend time soaking up the atmosphere and see the activities with your own eyes. Similarly, immerse yourself in the event and enjoy the spirit of the festivities and the kaleidoscope of color.

    Join in the festivities and dance or walk with the participants if they are marching.

    Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the event, you will have a much more memorable experience.

    Conclusion

    In summary, festivals offer a wonderful chance to create pictures with color, impact, and action. Most importantly, relax, enjoy it and don’t get too engrossed in taking the perfect shot. When photographing festivals remember these tips to help you improve your images. Therefore, get out there and capture a festival near you and share your photos below!

     

    The post 5 Tips for Photographing Festivals appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer

    The post Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    During travel photography workshops, we teach participants who often carry big, heavy camera bags. A lot of the time people do not use very much of what they are lugging around with them.

    In this article, I want to encourage you to think about carrying less camera gear and how it can help you improve your photography.

    Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer Female Photographer

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Restrictions of weight

    Walking around with less weight on your shoulder or back makes a huge difference to photography sessions. It’s no problem if you’re working in a studio or are going to be mostly in one location, but otherwise, it can wear you out quickly.

    Going on a photo walk, or even when you go on location, carrying less weight in camera gear frees you up and gives you more energy. You can enjoy your photography for longer periods of time. This becomes more noticeable as you get older.

    Well-designed camera bags make a difference with good weight distribution. Mostly though, bags designed to carry a lot of camera gear are backpack-style and I do not find these easy to use. They are either strapped on and secure, with a belt to help support the weight on your hips, or your gear is easily accessible but the weight is not so well distributed.

    Carrying a heavy bag of equipment hanging off your shoulder is tiring. It can also lead to back problems if you frequently do it for long periods.

    Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer Poi Sang Long Festival

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    The hassle of bulk

    Bulky bags make moving around more difficult. Again, this is more pronounced as you get older. Getting down on the ground to capture a low angle view becomes difficult with a bulky backpack on. If you do not have the bulk and weight on you are far more likely to get down and potentially make a more interesting photo.

    Markets and other busy locations are far easier to navigate if you are carrying less camera gear.

    With less of a mass of gear, you are also more inconspicuous. This can be a great advantage and help you obtain more natural, candid photos.

    Khao San Road Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Thinking differently about how you compose

    I think the biggest advantage of carrying less camera equipment with you is that you are forced to be more alternative in your approach to composition.

    You will need to be more imaginative if you have only one or two lenses with you. Zooming with your feet becomes more necessary. It does not take long to get used to.

    Seeing in new ways that still allow you to take interesting photos becomes second nature if you practice often enough. You have to think more about taking photos with the lens you have on your camera. If you have limited options you have to focus on your composition rather than relying on the perspective a different lens gives you.

    Of course, this all means you need to plan more in advance. Packing the right gear for a particular situation is important. Before you head out with minimal gear, carefully consider the demands you are facing and which lenses will be most appropriate. If you are like me and prefer not to use zoom lenses, your options are more limited and carrying less gear is more challenging.

    Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    What gear should I pack?

    Ask yourself how much of your gear you really use each time to go out. When you stop to think about it you will probably find that you use certain lenses and other equipment more often and other gear hardly at all.

    Check your metadata in Lightroom to see which lenses you use the most. Open a catalog of the favorite photos you’ve taken over the last twelve months or so. In Grid View in Lightroom click on the Metadata option in the top bar. Now you will see lists of cameras and lenses you have used. Analyzing your best photos based on lens and focal length may help you decide which lenses you use the most to take the photos you are most satisfied with.

    Maybe you will choose to take one or two lenses with you more often, based on this information. Don’t always pack the lens you use the most. Push yourself by sometimes only packing a lens you tend not to use so much. This helps you become more comfortable using these lenses and to master them.

    Kevin Lander-Johan Photographer Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Conclusion

    You may need to buy a new bag, or consider not taking a camera bag with you. If you are only taking one or two lenses out you may not even need to take a camera bag at all.

    Don’t aim to travel too light when you have to produce a set of photos for a customer or specific purpose. Limiting yourself in terms of gear options can be detrimental in these situations. If you have a job to do, you need to be sure to do it well.

    Challenge yourself to use minimal camera equipment for a month or two. Create a new body of work. When you reach the set period of time you have made yourself, look back over your photos and think about the difference this exercise has made to your photography.

    Do you limit your photography gear? Let us know in the comments below.

    The post Why Carrying Less Camera Gear Will Make You a Better Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


    Digital Photography School

  • Secret Camera Settings that Supercharge your JPEG Photos

    The post Secret Camera Settings that Supercharge your JPEG Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

    Shooting pictures in RAW definitely has its advantages, but there are plenty of good reasons you might want to shoot using the JPEG format as well. It really comes down to personal preference, and both types of file formats have their pros and cons.

    One of the biggest assets of the RAW format is that you can adjust your images as much as you want in programs like Lightroom or Luminar. Whereas the lossy compression algorithms used to create JPEG files leave much less room for post-processing flexibility. For this reason, to get the most out of your JPEG files, there are some important settings in your camera you should learn and customize to get your photos looking their best.

    When you use RAW, you have access to the full data readout from your camera’s sensor. None of the data used to create your image was tossed out by your camera to compress the image and save memory card space. When shooting JPEG, your camera makes a series of determinations on the fly. It calculates what it thinks are the best values for various settings to get a pleasing photo almost like following a recipe to bake a cake. You can tweak that recipe to get the final output to be more customized to your taste. Doing so can be extremely helpful in many different photography settings.

    White Balance

    White balance is perhaps the most critical setting for JPEG shooters to understand. Getting this right can have a massive impact on how your images look. If you notice your images looking slightly yellow or blue, it’s likely due to the white balance not being calibrated correctly. Most people only use the Auto White Balance option which leaves the heavy lifting up to the digital brain inside your camera.

    However, it’s straightforward to set the white balance by yourself and get much better results, particularly in tricky lighting situations. Especially indoors.

    Setting the white balance at this cat show was really tricky due to the old fluorescent lights at the venue. Several of my auto white balance shots had a yellow tint, so I set the proper white balance in my camera and was able to achieve much better results.

    It only takes a few seconds to set the white balance when shooting JPG and it can save you a lot of hassle in the long run. All DSLR and Mirrorless cameras, as well as most point-and-shoots, come with a variety of white balance settings. You can specify these if you know a little bit about the lighting conditions in which you are shooting. Many cameras have options such as Sunlight, Cloudy, Incandescent, Shade, even different types of fluorescent lighting. These can be selected to help make your photos look as good as possible.

    The Overcast white balance setting gave me just the right look I was aiming for in this shot.

    In my experience, the Auto white balance setting works great outdoors. However, when shooting inside, even the latest cameras can get tripped up by the many different types of artificial light. If you’re at a school, office, sporting event or another indoor setting with fluorescent lights, just choosing that option in your White Balance menu can make a huge difference to how your photos turn out. Try different settings and see what you like. Chances are, one of the pre-selected settings can help a great deal if you notice your photos looking a little blue or orange.

    The picture I wanted to take was not what I ended up with. I missed a good opportunity largely due to improper white balance settings. A richer, more natural tone was what I wanted, but the image came out much cooler than I intended because I did not take a few seconds to set a proper white balance.

    Finally, you can go all out and set a white balance of your own, which isn’t as big of a deal as it might sound. Every camera has its way of doing this. As long as you have a mostly white surface to point your camera at you should be all set (ideally it works if the surface is just slightly gray). Once again, the actual procedure is going to be different on every camera, and if you’re unsure do an internet search of your camera model and “custom white balance.” You should find the information you need.

    Sharpening

    While you adjust White Balance for various photography situations, Sharpening is a setting that you fine-tune to your taste and leave as-is. Of course, each photographer is different, but I’ve found I like a certain level of sharpening on all my JPG photos. This is because I have a particular type of look that I’m trying to achieve. Sharpening can’t fix an out-of-focus image. However, it can give your photos a certain level of pizzazz or clarity that you might have seen in other pictures but aren’t quite sure how to achieve on your own.

    I ramped up the in-camera sharpening to get a clean, crisp image of these crayons. The foreground and background are just slightly out of focus due to shallow depth of field, but the middle is tack sharp.

    Be careful not to set the sharpening too high though. Over-sharpening can lead to images that look fake and over-processed. However, you might find that with a few tweaks to the sharpening setting you can get your images to look much better.

    Contrast

    Adjusting the contrast slider can make dull images come to life and punch-up an otherwise boring image. Either you or your camera, depending on your shooting mode, makes decisions about how bright or dark your images are based on the exposure settings. The contrast becomes the overall difference between the brightest and darkest portions of your pictures. Dialing up the contrast makes bright parts brighter and dark parts darker, whereas lowering the value will have the opposite effect.

    Adjusting the contrast value helped me get the shot I was aiming for.

    Contrast may seem like such a simple thing and, for the most part, it is. But it’s something that often gets overlooked by casual photographers. They may want to have nice JPEG shots straight out of their cameras and not worry about fussing with all the technical details. You might find that you prefer your photos to have a little contrast lending an interesting dynamic element to them. Or, perhaps you want your images to be a bit more subdued. Try adjusting the contrast slider, and you might realize that it does the sort of thing you have always been trying to achieve but never quite knew how to get.

    Saturation

    If you have ever played around with filters on apps like Instagram you probably noticed that some of them make your colors pop and stand out while others have more subdued, muted tones. This effect is due in large (but not exclusive) part to saturation adjustments. You can fine-tune this on your camera to customize the look of your images. Some photographers prefer an over-saturated look – especially when taking nature or landscape pictures. It also works well for certain types of portraits too.

    Adjusting your saturation after you take a picture can work, but it’s best to get it right in camera if possible.

    Some photographers like a softer touch and prefer their JPEG files to be less saturated for a calm, timeless look. It’s all based on personal preference of the photographer. It can be useful and time-saving to change the saturation in-camera instead of in an image editing program. Adjusting the saturation is as simple as increasing or decreasing the value in your camera. You may find, after several test shots, that you prefer your images to be somewhat over or under-saturated. Either way, it’s worth giving it a try to see what you end up liking.

    Other settings

    Most cameras have additional custom settings you can change in addition to the basic ones covered so far. They can include things like film simulations, grain effects, highlight/shadow adjustments, and noise reduction, which can be very handy when shooting at higher ISO levels. If you have never explored these settings before, it’s a good idea to dive into your camera menus and do some experimenting.

    If you dig into your camera menus you will find many other settings you can change to get just the right look you are going for.

    Change some numbers, take some test shots, and see how the results compare to your normal shooting mode. It’s a good bet that you’ll end up with some appealing results. At the very least, you may learn more about your camera than you did before.

    Custom Banks

    A feature offered by many cameras is the ability to save banks of custom settings you can activate at will. Even my old Nikon D200, which came out in 2006, had this ability. The same is also true for every camera I own today. You can save specific values of most of your image adjustments such as Saturation and Contrast to a bank that you can recall at will. Using these custom settings means you don’t have to change individual values every time you want to shoot with a specific style.

    This Fuji X100F has seven custom banks where you can save a huge variety of settings. You can switch between each bank with the touch of a button.

    Think of this method as creating custom presets in Lightroom that you can apply to your camera with the touch of a button. If you’re shooting outdoors, you may have an in-camera preset with greater saturation and contrast. Perhaps you find yourself shooting school basketball games, so you create a preset with custom white balance and sharpening levels. If your camera does offer this feature, you can find it in the menus, or you can search online for your camera as well as the phrase “custom setting bank.”

    Wrap up

    I know not everyone shoots in JPEG, but if you do, some of these custom settings can come in handy and save you a lot of time. However, be aware that it’s difficult to undo them afterward. Unlike RAW, your JPEG files contain much less wiggle room and if you crank up the saturation and contrast in your camera, it’s challenging to undo these changes on your computer. Still, if you pay attention to what you are doing and make your adjustments carefully, you might be surprised at how useful these settings can be.

    The post Secret Camera Settings that Supercharge your JPEG Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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  • 10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster

    The post 10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

    Making Lightroom Run Faster-Darina kopcok-DPS

    Lightroom is an excellent program editing and managing your image files. When it comes to organizing and developing your photos, Lightroom can’t be beaten. However, there are times when it slows down; like when it renders previews. To address this, here are ten tips that will make Lightroom Classic CC run faster.

    10 Tips to Help Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster-Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Update Lightroom regularly

    Let’s start with the simplest tip: update Lightroom regularly.

    Word is that Adobe has been working diligently behind the scenes on improving the performance of Lightroom, so it’s important to keep it updated.

    To check for updates, click on -> Help in the top menu bar in Lightroom and then click on -> Updates to install them.

    Help-Updates-Lightroom-DPS

    Optimize your Catalog

    Lightroom continually updates the catalog file, but eventually, the data structure can become less optimal.

    Lightroom has an “optimize catalog” option you can enable to improve performance.

    To access this option, go to Lightroom -> Preferences and click on -> Performance.

    Then click on -> Optimize Performance.

    Set up Lightroom to back up on a regular schedule, and set it to optimize the catalog following the backup.

    You can backup as often as you like. Ensure you always have the latest backup in case your Lightroom catalog becomes corrupt.

    Be sure to discard previous backups to keep them from slowing down your computer.

    More on this in a bit.

    Optimize Catalog in Lightroom-DPS

     

    Store your Lightroom Catalog and Previews on your main hard drive

    Lightroom stores your catalog and preview files on your main hard drive by default.

    To check where the catalog and previews files are stored, go to Lightroom -> Catalog Setting (Mac) or -> Edit -> Catalog Settings (PC).

    The Catalog name is an .lrcat file and its location can be found under the -> General tab.

    The preview file is an .lrdata file and it is stored in the same location.

    Lightroom Catalog Location-DPS

    Check your hard drive space

    If your computer’s main hard drive is running low on space, Lightroom will slow down, as will any other programs that you’re running simultaneously, like Photoshop.

    Your main hard drive needs at least 20% free space for Lightroom to run optimally.

    Keep in mind that Lightroom can actually be one of the reasons you’re running low on space!

    If you have Lightroom set to back up your catalog every day or every time you close it down, that can result in a lot of space being taken up by backup files.

    Delete all of these backup files except the last couple of backups you have made.

    It’s important to have the latest backup in case your Lightroom catalog becomes corrupt, but that is all you really need.

    Convert your images to DNG when importing into Lightroom

    DNG is short for Digital Negative. It’s a RAW file format created by Adobe.

    When you convert a file into DNG, Lightroom ads Fast Load Data to the file, which results in a partially processed preview that allows Lightroom to render faster previews in the Develop module.

    Adobe claims that a DNG file with Fast Load Data can load up to eight times faster.

    Another benefit of converting to DNG files is that they are smaller files than other RAW formats and take up 20% less space on your hard drive.

    You must enable this Fast Load Data under your Lightroom Preferences tab.

    Go to -> File Handling and check off Embed Fast Load Data. Make sure you have DNG selected as the file extension.

    Fast Load Data-Lightroom-DPS

    Edit your images using Adobe’s recommended Adjustment Steps

    The panels in the Develop module are organized according to a suggested workflow.

    Adobe also recommends that adjustments in Lightroom follow a certain order to maximize performance. They are as follows:

    1. Spot Healing
    2. Lens Correction
    3. Transformations
    4. Global Adjustments
    5. Local Adjustments
    6. Sharpening
    7. Noise Reduction

    Whenever you make an edit, Lightroom applies it and calculates the previous adjustments that have been made. The more adjustments you apply, the more Lightroom slows down.

    This helps keep track of your edits but slows down your system because Lightroom is calculating adjustments as you edit.

    I personally stick to this order, except that I start by adjusting my white balance.

    I also leave detailed edits for Photoshop. For example, as using the spot healing brush repeatedly can slow Lightroom down significantly. You are better off using this tool in Photoshop, which is also more precise.

    Also, editing your images in the order they appear in your Lightroom filmstrip can have an impact on speed.

    Lightroom caches images for faster performance in the Develop module.

    It will automatically load the next and previous images in the filmstrip below your photos in the memory.

    In the screenshot below, the active image is highlighted with a lighter grey background. The images on either side have also been loaded into memory for quick access.

    LR Edit Order-Darina Kopcok-EP

    Build standard  previews on Import

    Lightroom offers several preview settings for your images.

    Although there are differing opinions as to which is the optimal preview setting, I suggest building standard previews on import.

    This will slow down the import process, but it will make the Library module more responsive when you review the imported images. Lightroom renders the previews from your SSD, rather than building them from the RAW files.

    Make sure your previews are set close to the width of your screen.

    For example, I work on a 27-inch iMac with a 5120 x 2880 built-in retina display. This means my display should be set at 5120 pixels.

    To make this adjustment, go to the -> Catalog Settings and choose -> File Handling.

    Choose the previews size under -> Standard Preview Size.

    Display-Lightroom-DPS

    Make your Camera RAW cache larger

    Lightroom has a Preview Cache, which is stored with your Catalog file and used in the Library view.

    It also has a Camera RAW cache, which loads the image date when you’re in the Develop module.

    The default size for this is 1GB, which slows down performance due to Lightroom swapping images in and out of its cache while you’re editing.

    I suggest setting the Camera RAW cache to 20 or 30GB.

    To set this option go to your Lightroom -> Preferences and click -> Performance.

    Set your desired maximum size RAW cache Settings.

     

    Disable XMP Writing

    Lightroom keeps track of the edits you make in the Develop module in its catalog. If something happens to this catalog, you can lose all your data.

    Lightroom can be configured to write the develop setting data into an XMP file. This a small file that contains the edit information and is written to your computer’s hard drive in the same place as your original RAW file.

    The problem is that writing changes into this file can really slow your computer down.

    I suggest disabling this feature and make sure that you always have a current backup instead.

     

    Pause Address and Face Lookup features

    Lightroom allows you to look up image address based on the GPS data, or the ability to search for faces.

    However, allowing these options to run in the background can slow Lightroom down. So it’s best to pause them while you’re actually editing your photos.

    You can start them up again if they’re relevant to your editing process.

    For example, as a food photographer, I don’t use these features so I have mine set permanently on “pause”.

    To access these features, go to where your name appears in the top left-hand corner of the Lightroom interface and click on the arrow beside it to access the drop-down menu. Choose -> Pause.

    In Conclusion

    When it comes to archiving, organizing and all-around management of your photos, Lightroom is an amazing program.

    Hopefully, these tips help you get the most out of the program and speed up its performance so you can spend less time editing and more time shooting!

     

    The post 10 Tips to Make Lightroom Classic CC Run Faster appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


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  • Expand Your Creativity by Taking Self-Portraits

    The post Expand Your Creativity by Taking Self-Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Stacey Hill.

    If someone asked me “what is the ONE thing you have done that improved your photography the most?” my answer would be Self Portraiture. No, not your average cell phone social media shot, but a fully-conceptualized project. One that is planned and executed down to the last detail, and then shot by the photographer who is also in front of the camera.

    I don’t shoot people because they can be awkward and self-conscious in front of the camera. Often they have no idea how to pose, don’t listen and take direction, and can be impatient with the process. They can also be easily distracted, and you have to spend a lot of energy to keep them happy and engaged. For those who make a living shooting people/portraits, I salute you because it is hard work.

    However, for those of us who don’t like to photograph other people, we are then left with a dilemma. Having a human in the shot helps us tell a more involved story, gives the viewer something to relate to, and helps us engage with the image. Therefore, using ourselves in the picture becomes a choice. Which leads us to the challenge; how do we plan out an entire image and shoot it, while being IN it at the same time?

    Not only do we have to design and plan the whole shoot, which is enough of a challenge anyway, but we also have to put our self in front of the camera at the same time.

    So we take something that is hard to do and make it even harder. Why would we do that? What are the benefits?

    I had to come back and do this shoot a second time because all my first set of shots were not 100% in focus. I marked my focus point with a white stone this time

    Creative Freedom

    Using yourself as the model gives you enormous creative freedom. It allows you to try creative directions a paying client may not want to do.  You can be adventurous and take more risk with the shot style.

    Some themes you could play with include:

    • 50’s pinup style shoots or burlesque or lingerie
    • Cosplay with lots of armor and weapons
    • Western-themed with a horse and a lasso
    • Fairytale redo of Cinderella or Red Riding Hood
    • A fantasy wedding theme
    • Pirates
    • Sport
    • 1920’s speakeasy
    • Zombie horror
    • Elaborate composited scenes not possible in reality like levitation and flying furniture and people

     

    Sticky fake blood looks effective for this zombie-themed shot. It tells a story with just the hand and arm.

    Thinking outside the box

    There are so many more ways to create a self-portrait. You can use your whole body or only a part of it. Using the hands alone can tell stories in so many ways. Many people do not like having their face in the frame, and showing complex extreme emotion is a challenging concept for a lot of people.

    Why are our portraits often of people smiling and being happy? Do we not also feel sadness, grief, anger, confusion, depression, anxiety, despair?  How can we explore the full human condition?

    What are the other stories we can tell using the full range of emotions available to us? How else can we create powerful emotive imagery? What stories can we tell that encompass our vision and experiences?

    Are there things we personally find challenging or interesting? What fascinates and drives us? Are there demons dwelling in our psyche to be uncovered and exposed in front of a lens? What is our story? Do we want to share a reality or instead craft an alternate fantasy world instead?

    My mantra is “I want my images to evoke a response.” Any response is fine. Just so long as my images are SEEN, not just scrolled past on the phone. How can they stand out from the crowd of the millions of other images uploaded every minute online? I also want them to be uniquely mine by permitting myself to create what is necessary to get a specific shot.

    My question to you is “how do you get someone to stop scrolling and see YOUR image, or to like or comment on it?” How do you innovate with your imagery to make it different, noticeable or more engaging?

    Learn to take risks

    For the record, there is nothing wrong with the traditional style of portrait/self-portrait images, but there are those of us who strive for something more. We strive for something different, something extreme or extraordinary. In which case, starting with yourself is an excellent way to experiment in a safe, controlled environment. An environment where it is okay if you make a mistake and take twice as long to do something because you are only using your time. Somewhere everything you try is a learning experience and often a valuable one.

    However, putting yourself as the subject in a shot is a risk. Everyone suffers the same doubts. “Will I look OK?”
    “Will people like this image of me?”
    “I hate how my face looks when I smile” and so on.

    Underneath we are all the same fragile creatures, so putting yourself front and center takes a lot of courage.

    If you are choosing to do something more creative, then the risk may feel greater.
    “Will I look like an idiot dressed as a pirate?”
    “I’m afraid of doing a nude or lingerie shot.”

    It is easy to worry about what people think.
    It can also be hard to overcome the ingrained societal concepts of good or expected behavior. Society expects us to be smiling and happy in a portrait shot. Many people do not cope well when presented with your screaming face covered in blood!

    You may feel concerned about going outside to shoot where other people can see you.
    “What is this person in a strange costume doing making weird poses in front of the camera?”
    Yes, that is a real thing.

    My response to that is first of all, who cares what other people think? Second, if we want the shot of a particular place to tell a story, then we do what is necessary to get the shot. Are we risking embarrassment by doing this? Maybe, but I am also comfortable with the idea that no one has died of embarrassment.

    Breaking through my comfort zones and pushing my boundaries is one of the most valuable things I have done to improve my photography. Self-portraiture has been a big part of that journey because it gave me the freedom to take risks and try something new. Because I am using myself as the model, if it doesn’t work, I can try again. I can try something different, or refine my process in a better way.

    Think about how you could tell new or different stories if you had the time and made the opportunities to craft self-portrait images that tell your story!

    Self-portrait secret weapons

    1. A Wireless Remote
    2. Shooting Tethered (either cabled or wireless with a trigger)

    A wireless remote

    Having a wireless remote is faster and more efficient. You can get yourself into position and shoot a whole range of different poses without having to dash back and forward between the camera and your position.

    Shooting tethered

    If you are in a studio or working close enough to the camera, shooting tethered makes the process even better. You can make sure your pose is within the frame, can see any issues and adjust them quickly. Shooting tethered allows you to fine tune everything while you are shooting the scene. You save time too, in case you cut your head off accidentally and need to reposition again and again.

    Being able to see how the final image looks on a bigger screen is also very helpful for creative direction. Several of my shots I would not have conceptualized without the opportunity to see the potential of them on the laptop screen. Sometimes merely adjusting the tilt of the head or the angle of the chin completely changes the tone or feel of an image.

    Slightly out of focus while I was trying out shooting tethered for the first time. Helped to position the fan in exactly the right place

    Give yourself time to play

    When you are the only set of hands and have to be in two places at once, it takes time to set the shot up. Give yourself plenty of time to shoot, so there is no rushing. That way you can deal with any issues and be relaxed about your time frame.

    Also, allow yourself time to play and experiment while in front of the camera. By having time to play, you can spark up new concepts and ideas you didn’t initially have. Ideas that can turn out to be valuable. I have specifically scheduled time in my studio with a few props to experiment with a concept. With no specific intention for a shoot, just time to create visually in an unstructured manner. I can take small risks, try new things, move on to the next idea and experiment.

    This exercise has taught me a great deal about posing, and how to move the body to get the best visual outcome. This exercise is invaluable for talking to portrait clients later, as you can empathize with how odd it feels, but explain why it matters too.

    Planning a self-portrait image

    Many elements go into creating an image. For example, subject, light, story, and mood. With a self-portrait image, you have to start from the beginning and build the entire picture. You must integrate all the necessary elements in such a way that allows you to create both behind the camera and in front of it simultaneously.

    1. What

    What is the concept or idea behind your image?

    2. How

    How are you going to execute it? What constraints or limitations are there? What are the technical or physical challenges and what lighting is needed?

    3. Where

    Where do you shoot it? Do you shoot inside or outside, or in a specific place? Is the background composited in later?

    4. Theme

    What styling or theme do you want the shot to have? Be as creative as you like or can afford.

    5. Pose

    How will you be posed? Is it a pose you can hold and adjust easily for a range of options? Is the pose comfortable and safe?

    6. Props

    What props are needed to tell the story? Do you require hair, makeup, clothing, or other accessories to tell the story?

    7. Extras

    Some other things you may need to consider are: site permissions, shooting fees, access, public audience, personal safety, weather conditions, and travel distance/time.

    Other considerations

    These are all the things you may need to account for if doing a shoot with a client or a model. You can go the safe route and do classic headshots, or outdoor portraits in a garden. It is a safe option when dealing with a client who may not want a more challenging style of image, may not have the time or budget to get dressed up in costume or isn’t interested.

    Figuring out how to do this by yourself (assuming you don’t have any assistance) can take some practice. If you have an elaborate, complicated costume, can you get dressed in it by yourself? Can you do it in the back of your car if there isn’t anywhere else you can get changed? Can you wear it and drive at the same time?

    How much gear are you carrying? Can you take it in one trip to the session site? Are you and your gear safe while working outside?

    Everything becomes much more complicated. You need to take a normal approach to things and make it even simpler. Then you repeat until every stage is possible for one person to achieve.

    The final edit from the original shot seen above

    Conclusion

    Using people in images helps tell an engaging visual story. However, not all photographers have the luxury of friends/family to pose for them or can afford a model. Some photographers may prefer not to deal with a stranger due to the complexity of the shoot, and the time required. So putting yourself in the frame may be the only option.

    Putting yourself front and center can be intimidating. Some of us prefer to be behind the camera. However, we can dress in costume, wear wigs, elaborate makeup, masks or shoot in such a way that our identity is not apparent.

    Masking your identity also forces you to be more creative with how you think about staging and shooting your image. It can be a challenge because everything takes longer and the complexity increases with the need to be both in front of the camera and composing the shot.

    There are so many learning opportunities and experiences to be had by taking the time to play. When it is just you and a camera, there is great freedom involved to try random concepts and ideas. Things you may not have ever considered before.

    Pinterest and Instagram are great places to find inspirational ideas. Start making yourself a board, gather props, take a deep breath and put yourself in the frame.

    It will be tough going initially, but it is worth it. Even just for the learning experiences, you gain from making mistakes. However, don’t let that stop you. Go forth and create!

    Share with us some of your images below.

     

    The post Expand Your Creativity by Taking Self-Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Stacey Hill.


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