Category: Photography

  • 7 Lessons You Can Learn about Photography from Legendary Photographer, Diane Arbus

    The post 7 Lessons You Can Learn about Photography from Legendary Photographer, Diane Arbus appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anthony Epes.

    I discovered the extraordinary photography of Diane Arbus early on in my career and was blown away by the candid portraits she created. They seemed to have a strong feeling of intimacy coming from the subject (apparent in photos like “Family on their lawn one Sunday.”)

    Arbus (1923 – 1971), was an American photographer whose most famous subjects were often outsiders in society.

    Journalist Arthur Lubow said of her work: “She was fascinated by people who were visibly creating their own identities—cross-dressers, nudists, sideshow performers, tattooed men, the nouveau riche, the movie-star fans—and by those who were trapped in a uniform that no longer provided any security or comfort.”

    I was impressed with her photos. To capture the feelings and reveal aspects of the lives and personalities of her subjects is both challenging to do as a photographer, and rare.

    So many photographers are concerned with the ‘surface’ of their subject’s appearance. However, to spend time delving into our subject’s persona gives us an incredible insight into the multiple human experiences of that person’s life.

    In this article, I take an in-depth look at Arbus’s photographic approach and draw out simple but powerful lessons to help you develop your photography.

    What I most admire about Arbus’s approach is that she spent a lot of time connecting with her subjects. They felt comfortable with her and were able to relax and reveal aspects of themselves and their lives.

    I think this connection is what leads to such a feeling of intimacy within her photos. It’s almost as if you are right there with her, and with that person (her photo of the boy with the toy hand grenade is brilliantly evocative of kids.)

    Arbus died in the 1970s, but her photographic legacy is still profound. After her death, her daughter collaborated with the artist Marvin Israel to produce a short documentary about her work, Masters of Photography: Diane Arbus, in which her words get spoken over her images.

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    It’s a fascinating view of her approach, and many of the quotes I’ve used in this article come from that film. I encourage you to look up her work and see for yourself.

    From my observations of her work and reading about her life, here are some of the lessons I’ve drawn from her photography. Included are my own photos.

    1. We shoot what we are

    “What moves me about…what’s called technique…is that it comes from some mysterious deep place. I mean it can have something to do with the paper and the developer and all that stuff, but it comes mostly from some very deep choices somebody has made that take a long time and keep haunting them.” Diane Arbus

    I love the photographic kit, and I love cameras, and I am a bit of a tech nerd. Never met a camera manual I didn’t enjoy reading!

    Moreover, I am an advocate of learning to use your camera, learning to shoot on manual and having an excellent understanding of all your kit. That way, you are so familiar with it that you can completely forget about it and concentrate entirely on getting into a deep creative flow state.

    I will say, creating interesting, compelling and unique images has very little to do with your camera, and everything to do with who you are as a human being.

    I have seen too many technically perfect, but entirely boring photos, to know how true this is.

    We are all different as human beings, and so our photographs must reflect who we are. Reflect what we’ve experienced in life, what we love and dislike, what excites us and ignites our imagination, and what totally and completely fascinates us.

    When we take photos, we are drawing from this massive well of life experience and our unique personalities. That is why I love the quote (above) from Arbus. It shows that there is so much more to photography other than the camera you have and how well you can use it. It is meaningful, but still a small part of the photographic process.

    When people look at my photographs, they often say – “oh, you like to photograph cities or people or pretty nature?”

    I say, “no – I only have one subject, and that is light.”

    My photographic obsession is intriguing and beautiful light. Almost everything I choose to photograph has somehow been transformed by light, and it bewitches me.

    I have distinct memories, of being a small child laying under a tree in a Greek garden, seeing and feeling the dappled light falling over my face. Moreover, many of my memories of growing up in California are also of light. Of being out in nature all day, and climbing trees in the hot, yellow sunshine.

    I love the way that everything is affected by light. How the same thing – a tree, for example – looks and feels one way when the light is flat and grey, and entirely another way when it’s bathed in the light yellow sunshine of a spring morning.

    Light is something that moves me on a subliminal, subconscious level. I didn’t even realize that light was my obsession for many years. That’s because, as Arbus says, “our photographs are a reflection of our deeper selves.”

    When you examine your photos what do you see about yourself? What do you notice about the innate aspects of your personality? Does it tell you about what you love and what captures your attention?

    Where can these deep passions take you in your photography?

    2. Find the perfect angle

    “I work from awkwardness. By that I mean I don’t like to arrange things. If I stand in front of something, instead of arranging it, I arrange myself.” Diane Arbus

    I often see people’s photos of fascinating subjects, but the photos themselves are boring. They missed the chance to create a dynamic photo, often because of where they positioned themselves.

    It may sound obvious, but your job as a photographer is not to wait for the subject to come to you, nor is it to wait for the subject to become perfectly aligned with your camera.

    Your job is to find the very best angle. The very best place to stand and arrange yourself so that you place your subject at its very best situation in your frame.

    There is always one angle that is the best for your subject. You have to find that. It may sound obvious but it’s not something I see a lot of amateur photographers do.

    Ask yourself: if the subject and my composition isn’t perfect, where can I move to try different angles and compositions? Can I move up, down, or around?

    Am I able to climb on a chair or walk up that hill? Do I need to lie on the ground or reposition myself so that the light falls on their face? Can I catch a reflection in the glass?

    You should always be thinking to yourself: What happens to the subject when I go over here…?

    Once you’ve got that great shot, explore further and search for other good angles. See if you can go one better.

    3. Photography is your license to be curious (even when it scares you)

    “If I were just curious, it would be very hard to say to someone, ‘want to come to your house and have you talk to me and tell me the story of your life.’ I mean people are going to say, ‘You’re crazy.’ Plus they’re going to keep mighty guarded. But the camera is a kind of license. For a lot of people, they want to be paid that much attention and that’s a reasonable kind of attention to be paid.” Diane Arbus

    Many photographers are scared to shoot strangers but would love to do it anyway. However, shooting people you don’t know can be a very confronting experience.

    Often there is a big fear about what the person might do when they see a camera focused upon them, or when you pluck up the courage to ask their permission to shoot.

    The most important thing to know here, and this comes from my own experience as well as from other photographers like Arbus, is that most people enjoy some attention.

    Most people are happy to have you shoot them – or they don’t mind. Photographing someone is saying to them – I find you very interesting – and most people see that as a compliment.

    Now we are in a different age to Arbus. When she was taking photographs, very few people had cameras. Whereas, now with our smartphones, cameras are everywhere.

    What I love about Arbus is that she holds strong reverence for her subjects. The process of connecting and working with them was all about them and not about her feelings.

    She talked at length about the fear and anxiety she felt about approaching subjects or going to their houses to photograph them.

    It is inspiring to hear that she was always pushing herself to do more and not allowing her fear to hold her back. Although, on occasion, it did hold her back. However, she’d start over the following day or at the next opportunity.

    We all experience fear, and it’s okay. Go with it and don’t let it stop you.

    There’s another piece of advice I’d like to offer when photographing strangers, and this is what Diane Arbus also did, and excelled.

    It all comes down to your attitude. Your potential subjects pick up on a sense of your energy when you point a camera at them.

    Think about whether you are friendly and considerate. Do you smile and relax? Are you trying to connect with the person? Alternatively, are you shoving a camera in their face and being aggressive or are you only looking for a quick shot?

    The biggest asset I have when photographing people all over the world, and where I don’t speak the language, is my smile. I often smile and lift my camera as if to say, “may I?”

    People sometimes nod, or don’t respond but just stand still. If they say no or walk away, then I’ve got my answer.

    If I am photographing people without them knowing and they see me, usually they walk away. However, if they want to connect, then I’ll show them the photo, smile and have a chat.

    I work on projecting confidence in myself, and friendliness to my subject. The very worst that can happen is that someone wants me to delete the photo. How easy is this nowadays with digital cameras?

    In fact, this has probably only happened once in the thirty years I’ve been taking photos. What typically happens is that they ask for a copy of the picture, which I gladly email.

    Photography is also a license to connect with people. I have had so many interesting conversations, been taken to lunch and shown around new cities when people see that I am a photographer.

    I tell people about my work, my books, and my projects, and people are curious. For them, it’s often an excellent opportunity to get to talk to someone new.

    When my wife was pregnant and after our kids were born, she said the whole process changed her experience of London. Suddenly, instead of being ignored, she was stopped in the street, talked to in cafes and chatted to all over the city.

    4. How to get to the reality of people

    “There is a point where there is what you want people to know about you and what you can’t help people knowing about you.” Diane Arbus

    Everyone has a mask that they show to the world. It’s so embedded in us that we don’t realize we are projecting it.

    To show our true selves often makes us feel vulnerable. We don’t want to expose our worries, or what we believe to be our character flaws.

    So we show the world an edited version of ourselves and an identity that we are happy to project (or not. Some people project anxiety or melancholy.)

    We can always photograph a person on a surface level, posed in the way they’d prefer. But the fascination is to dive beneath the surface and find the place that tells us more truthfully about that person, and who they are.

    As photographers, we want to get a sense of what it is like to be our subject and how they feel in that space and time. This is where I think Diane Arbus excelled – like in her photo “A young man with curlers at home on West 20th Street, N.Y.C.”

    She had such a strong awareness of what people wanted to show, versus what their life really was, that she was able to get people to show their true selves.

    So as photographers, it is awesome that we get the opportunities to explore and probe the masks that people put on. When we are patient enough, the mask drops and we can see the true human experience.

    Getting your subject to show behind their mask can be simple. When shooting a portrait, have your subject hold the same pose for an extended period. After a while, they become bored of the pose or forget about it because they start thinking about something else, Suddenly, a real emotion or feeling comes pouring through.

    It’s harder to do with some people than others. Some people used to being photographed, or who have a stronger attachment to their mask or ‘identity,’ try not to allow their true thoughts and feelings to come out.

    This is where your patience comes into play.

    Keep going. Stay with your subject and talk to them. Ask questions, move them around a bit, and see what develops.

    Arbus had a fascination with her subjects and their ‘beingness.’ She didn’t try to manipulate them or change them but gave them space to be themselves.

    She talked about how nice she was to people. She was warm and ingratiating, and that led to people relaxing and being themselves. Consequently, Arbus captured the clear, unvarnished experience of life.

    Another big key for me, when shooting strangers, is to be respectful. It is their lives, their selves, that we are revealing to the world.

    When Arbus said, “You see someone on the street and what you notice about them is the flaw,” it is about what is speaking to you about this person’s true humanity. Because humanity can be messy and difficult. We are complex beings. Discovering what makes each person who they are is a wonderful journey to take as a photographer.

    Revealing the flaws, characters, and difficulties are often what connects us to each other in the first place. We all connect to the challenges of the human experience – and working to capture this in your photography is a very enriching process.

    5. Don’t worry about your camera

    “I get a great sense that they are different from me. I don’t feel that total identity with the machine. I mean, I can work it fine, although I’m not so great actually. Sometimes when I am winding it, it’ll get stuck, or something will go wrong and I just start clicking everything and then suddenly everything is alright again. That’s my feeling about machines, if you sort of look the other way they’ll get fixed. Except for certain ones.” Diane Arbus

    As I mentioned above, I love my kit, and I love working out new cameras. However, I also recognize a camera is just a tool that enables me to capture my vision.

    I have a pretty good smartphone and I take some brilliant photos with that. There are a lot of photographers, like Diane Arbus, who have focused on the subject over technical skill, and they have done just fine!

    If learning technique to a very deep level isn’t your thing, don’t worry. Learn what you need to learn and just keep pushing yourself creatively.

    6. Allow your fascination for your subject to blossom

    “I would never choose a subject for what it means to me. I choose a subject and then what I feel about it, what it means, begins to unfold.” Diane Arbus

    This quote is such an unusual piece of advice for me because it’s the exact opposite of how I photograph. Regardless, it’s also brilliant for me because I don’t believe just one photographer or teacher can teach you everything you need to know about your personal journey as a photographer.

    My advice is to find the subjects that fascinate you the most. Find the places, people and things that you are in total awe of, and then use those feelings to create emotive, captivating images.

    Still, I can see Arbus’s point about finding a subject and allowing your ideas and interest in the subject to unfold from there. Anything can be your subject given the right circumstances, and for me, you guessed it, that involves interesting light!

    Perhaps you should take this lesson as more of a way to train yourself into finding something of fascination in whatever subject you come across.

    It can also be a truly revolutionary approach to your photography if you have become entirely immune to a scene or find it difficult to see exciting things to photograph in your day-to-day life.

    If you find yourself numb to the world around you, concentrating on a subject and working to open your awareness to finding a compelling aspect to your subject, will do wonders for your ability to see incredible images wherever you go.
    Diane Arbus said, “The Chinese have a theory that you pass through boredom into fascination and I think it’s true.”

    So there you go! Don’t worry about getting bored because it can lead to fascination, given enough time and perseverance.

    7. Photography should make you an adventurer

    “Once you become an adventurer, you’re geared to adventure, you seek out further adventures.” Marvin Israel

    This is not a quote by Arbus, but the artist Marvin Israel who was very significant in Arbus’s life. He talked about how “Each photograph for Diane was an event.”

    Israel talks about how moved she was by the experiences she had taking the photographs. That it wasn’t about the end photo at all, but everything that led up to taking the photo.

    Arbus commented, “For me, the subject of the picture is always more important than the picture. I do have a feeling for the print, but I don’t have a holy feeling.”

    For her, it was just being with her subjects, talking and connecting, the dialogue, the waiting, and the anticipation.

    This is what is so tremendously exciting about the medium of photography. You are not alone in a room with your thoughts, creating. It’s not a passive experience. You are engaging with the world, you are creating connections, and you are diving into life.

    This isn’t about traveling to far-flung places. It’s not even about doing big, crazy things. It’s about enjoying all aspects of taking the photo. It is an adventure in itself.

    Moreover, it’s about taking yourself on an incredible learning journey and seeing where your passions take you.

    I would love to know what you think of these ideas. Do any of these connect with you and get you thinking in new ways about your photography?

    The post 7 Lessons You Can Learn about Photography from Legendary Photographer, Diane Arbus appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anthony Epes.


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  • How to Take Floating Photos – Levitation Photography [video]

    The post How to Take Floating Photos – Levitation Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this great video from, Dunna Did It, you will learn how to create Levitation photography. That’s right, you’ll learn how to take floating photos!

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    What you need:

    1. Camera to shoot with
    2. Tripod
    3. Photo Editing software

    How to create levitation photography:

    • Set up your object that you are photographing.
    • Put your camera’s settings to the required settings based on your lighting and room.
    • The trick is to take one photo holding it with your left hand, and then one holding it with your right hand.
    • Be sure to turn on you turn Grids ON in your camera.
    • Line up your camera in the same spot for each shot using your grid.
    • Use manual focus for each shot because you want the focus to be exactly the same for each photo.
    • Hold your camera with one hand and line it up to your grid, focus and take the photo.
    • While still holding it, reach with your other hand and grab the opposite side (keeping the camera in the same position). Let go with the other hand, and take the 2nd photo. Try this as many times as you need to.
    • Choose and edit your best photos in Lightroom (or the editing program of your choice).
    • Once you have the two you want to combine, jump to Photoshop (press cmd+E mac, ctrl+E win) and choose Edit in Photoshop.
    • Go to the image held with the left hand and double-click the layer in the Layer Palette to make it an editable layer.
    • Then choose Cmd+A to select all, then Cmd+C to copy.
    • Jump to the other image, double click the layer in the Layers Palette to make the layer editable.
    • Then choose Cmd+V to paste the other image you copied into the new image.
    • Lower the opacity of the top layer to about 36% so you can see how well you can line them up.
    • Move the top layer until it is lined up.
    • Next, we want to take the top layer and delete to parts we don’t want.
    • Put a layer mask onto the top layer and select your Brush Tool (use a soft brush by turning down the hardness).
    • Change your foreground color in your toolbar to black to paint out areas of the layer mask.
    • Paint out the areas you don’t want. To fine-tune, make your brush smaller and continue to paint out areas you don’t need.
    • Check all your lines around your image to ensure they line up.
    • Do any further edits you want and you are done!

    You may also find the following articles helpful:

    How to do Digital Blending in Photoshop to Create a Composite Photo

    How to Create A Simple Composite: Photoshop Creative

    How to Make a Composite Wine Bottle Image using Photoshop Layers

    Preparing your Model and Background for a Successful Composite

    How to Shoot and Create a Composite Image for a Product Advertisement

    A Guide to Create Eye-Catching Composite Images

     

    The post How to Take Floating Photos – Levitation Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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  • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather [video]

    The post Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video by Julia Trotti, you’ll learn tips for portrait photography in overcast weather that can give you more even, soft light on your models.

    Overcast weather can be a great time to do portrait photography because the light is soft and doesn’t create as many of the harsh shadows that bright midday sunlight creates.

    If you are doing a shoot with a model and the weather is overcast, keep in mind the following tips:

    1. Make the most of it by using locations you normally wouldn’t

    Keep in mind, depending on the type of overcast weather it is, you may still get some shadows if it is a bright overcast day.

    If you find there is not quite enough light getting to your model’s eyes, ask them to bring their chin up a little to capture the light on their eyes.

    Bear in mind that the direction your model is facing also has an effect on the light and contrast to the background.

    Shoot in a few directions at the start as test shots to decide which is the best angle for light.

    When photographing on overcast days, you may want to find a location that has a pop of color so that your images are not flat. Green locations such as gardens and forests work well. If in a location that is not as vibrant in color, consider dressing your model in colorful clothes.

    2. Be mindful of including the sky in your photos

    When the sky is dark and overcast, it can add great drama. However, if it is a bright overcast day, the sky can look blown out. In this case, use varied composition and camera angles to eliminate distracting over-blown white sky (unless your purpose is to have high contrast between your model and background).

    3. Keep an eye on your camera settings

    When overcast, your scene may be quite a bit darker, and your camera settings need to reflect that. Also, depending on your location, you may need to tweak your camera settings too.

    If you want to capture sharp hair in windy conditions, use a faster shutter speed to avoid motion blur on your models’ hair. If you want to show the effect of some slight motion, use a slower shutter speed.

    You may also find the following articles helpful:

    6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know

    13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits

    10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits

    How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut

    How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits

    The post Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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  • Writing Exercises to Improve Your Photography

    The post Writing Exercises to Improve Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    You might think that an image is worth a thousand words. Perhaps you may consider yourself more visual than eloquent? Moreover, you may merely think that writing and photography have nothing to do with each other? However, they are more related than you think. Whether it is to unblock your creativity or to propel your career, writing exercises can improve your photography.

    Some writing exercises that can help improve your photography

    1. Unblock your creativity

    Are you feeling out of ideas for your photographic projects or stuck on the same photo-cliches? This is very common amongst photographers both amateur and professional. Often everyday life clutters our brain, leaving little room for creative thoughts.

    Something you can do to open the way to more productive and original thinking is to write first thing in the morning. Write as much as you can without thinking about it. I don’t want to set a limit because we all have different needs, problems and time constraints. What I do advise is that you start writing whatever comes into your head. Don’t filter it. Keep going until it feels difficult because that’s when the clutter ends and the creativity begins.

    2. Define your style

    Let’s face it, being a photographer is appealing and so people want to know more. Often when you introduce yourself as a photographer, you get asked what type of photography do you do. The question I ask you is: do you know how to reply? Any great photographer has a clear trajectory and a recognizable style. Therefore you need to define yours to become ‘great.’

    Defining your style is easier to do it if you have been doing photography for a while. However, you can also do it as an aspirational exercise. Go through your images and find the best ones. Also, find the ones that you enjoyed making the most and see what connects them.

    Now try writing an Artist Statement. Even if you don’t do art photography write a piece of text that explains who you are. Put your vision and what separates you from any other photographer into words. This text can be a concept, your approach to a particular topic or an aesthetic style. Having it written down in a concise paragraph helps you understand who you are and you build up from there.

    3. When, where and why

    If you’ve been in the photography business for a while, you might have noticed that the traditional CV is challenging to apply to your trajectory. This doesn’t mean that you can’t or don’t need to put your work experience down in writing. One way of doing this is to write a biographic text that both helps you find jobs within your field, and understand your strengths.

    You can try starting with a regular CV, which will most likely be kilometers long! As photographers, we have many different clients. Sometimes you do different types of photography according to the jobs you can get rather than your specialty. You may have dipped into survival jobs that are only vaguely related to photography but write them all down. Now start putting them into groups. For example, if you were hired to do your cousin’s wedding and the birthday party of your neighbor’s kid put them under Event Photography. If you photograph events of the bar next door for their Facebook page, put them under Social Networks Content, and so on.

    From bullet points, turn this into a more in-depth text. Once you have that, it gets easier to tell a story – your story. Like any narrative, it has to be coherent, so make sure everything you put in there has a reason to be there. Leave out any day jobs you did to pay the bills that don’t fit into this career path. Finally, try to show evolution. How you’ve grown professionally and what you’ve learned from it.

    Last thoughts

    I hope you find these exercises as useful as I have. It’s not easy to evaluate yourself, and your work. Feel free to ask for someone else’s opinion regarding what you think is your style, as they might have seen something in your work that you missed. On the other hand, I recommend you don’t show the morning writings to anybody. If you know people will see them, you will start to curate and maybe even censor them. So, for that one just let go and enjoy!

    The post Writing Exercises to Improve Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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  • Photo Editing: When Does it Get to be too Much?

    The post Photo Editing: When Does it Get to be too Much? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter West Carey.

    Editing photographs in itself is an art. It is what has made so many great photographers legendary. The ability to take the limits of a two-dimensional representation of a three-dimensional world, exact it onto a type of film or digital sensor, then, and only then, to craft the image into one’s liking.

    Indeed, it is an art, which raises the question – where is the line drawn for too much editing?

    Like art and how to define it, that answer is not straightforward. We each have our interpretation, but let’s take a look at some parameters. There are three questions you may want to ask yourself the next time you dive in to edit your images.

    What is my intent?

    In the days of film, you had to have intent. Even if your intention was “to mess around and learn some things,” you realized there was a direct cost to that learning. That cost was film, paper, chemical solutions and time — moreover, money.

    Now, experimenting is so dang easy, any kid with an iPhone can do it. I think that’s a good thing. Experimenting is a vital part of artistic expression and is especially true with photo editing.

    Having intent is important when coupled with experimenting if you hope to learn, grow and progress.

    Intent lets you know when your experimentation goes too far, and your edits are too much. The intent is a wonderful guide, with plenty of latitude if you bestow it.

    My suggestion here is to have intent with your editing experimentation. Know what you hope to gain from experimenting and have a general direction.

    Have I stayed true to my vision?

    Vision is where your intent takes you. Having artistic vision helps place boundaries on your work that is often needed, lest everything turns to chaos.

    Maybe a portrait photographer’s vision is to portray each subject in a subdued manner with soft lighting and harsh details. They want to show that side of each subject, and that leads to their intent, over and over again. It is repeatable.

    This is one edit the author now admits was too much editing, even if it was fun at the time.

    Alternatively, perhaps you’re a landscape photographer who envisions your work being a truthful depiction of what you experienced, not some fanciful ‘perfect world.’ You put effort into recreating the scene when back at your computer and employ tools to your end vision.

    Without having a vision of what you want to produce, it’s easy to be swayed by the siren song of really cool editing tools that pull you toward the rocks of editing ruin.

    Is this sustainable?

    I don’t mean to say all art, all forms of editing you choose, need to last forever. We all go through phases. This struck me most profoundly on a trip to Barcelona recently and a review of Goya’s work through the decades he painted.

    Firstly, there were Goya’s early career phases where he exacted reproduction in a French and Italian style. These were the most important. Beautiful portraits!

    Then, later, he had a more simplistic style. Filled with easy colors and a looser interpretation of the world around him with all its players.

    In one of the last room were exhibits of Goya’s “Black period.” Charcoal and dark tones, and dire scenes of hardship. Nothing like what he had been producing before.

    Most of us move through periods. That does not instantly disqualify any one of them as art (in an editing sense), but it does give us a good mirror.

    We are our own harshest critic, and we alone can look back at work we did one, five, or twenty years ago and deem it art or not. If we see a style, a thread that runs through all our works, it’s easy to say we have crafted art. However, if we find through the benefit of time and distance, that something we thought was the bee’s knees is now, to our more experienced eyes, rubbish, we can cast it aside.

    The HDR craze as an example

    Some years ago, as digital photography was catching on with the masses, came the HDR craze. It was a time when anyone could use a particular technique to achieve what is known as High Dynamic Range (HDR) images.

    For some, it was a fun departure from their normal routine. Others saw it as a chance to show everything in a scene; maybe not the same as their eyes saw, but better than the alternative.

    Some of us had our stomachs turn every time we saw one of those photos.

    It was new, and it was novel. Moreover, it didn’t fit into many photographers’ visions. Today, it’s hard to find any examples of those early attempts still being reproduced. It wasn’t sustainable.

    Although, it was fun for a while. Particularly for those who enjoyed the departure from reality.

    I would profess that it was a case of too much editing and that it met its likely demise because of it.

    Conclusion

    While deciding what dictates too much editing is subjective to the viewer and their experience, I hope the questions I posed above help guide you in future endeavors.

    I’m not here to judge your work or to say you might be wrong. That voice, and what your art means to you, needs to come from inside you.

    Develop your vision. Stay true to it. Focus your intent toward it. Then you will scarcely have to worry if you’ve gone too far in your editing work.

    The post Photo Editing: When Does it Get to be too Much? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter West Carey.


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  • 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    The post 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    People are one of the most popular subjects for photography. Perhaps this is because they mean so much on a personal level. People can provide a positive experience to your travels and make engaging subjects for pictures. There are many different approaches for photographing people from formal portraits to more candid shots. Here are six ways you can photograph people when traveling:

    1 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Monks on their morning alms round, Luang Prabang, Laos © Jeremy Flint

     

    1. People in action

    Capturing action is an area in which photography excels above all other art forms. The camera’s ability to freeze dynamic movement is second-to-none. Fast shutter speeds bring successful action photography within easy reach of anyone. You can set the shutter speed according to your subject and its speed of motion.

    2 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Fisherman, Jaffna peninsula, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    When people are busy doing an activity, they aren’t inhibited about being photographed because they are so involved with what they are doing. Shoot rapidly to capture people in action and be sure to set a faster shutter speed if shooting in low light.

    2. Candid snaps

    3 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Cyclist, Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, Jaffna, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    You can define candid photography as ‘taking photos of people who are unaware that a photo has been taken of them.’ The main principle of candid photography is to capture people acting naturally. Whoever is the focus of your photograph while on your travels will be going about their day without interruption. They are not posed for the camera or performing with your notable presence.

    4 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    © Jeremy Flint

    The art of candid photography is similar to street photography where you are trying to take photos without being noticed by your subject. It is enjoyable to do while traveling when everything appears new and exciting.

    You can capture people spontaneously from all backgrounds and different walks of life during your travels.

    3. Using dramatic lighting

    5 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    © Jeremy Flint

    Lighting in people photography can be used to create different effects. Being adventurous with lighting when shooting a portrait can be very rewarding. A little work with positioning and framing is all that is required. Try lighting your subject from different angles and see which you prefer. Vary the poses and seek out different positions. Get in closer for more intimate and emphasized lighting.

    Don’t be afraid to experiment with lighting. Use available light to help define your images and use a flash to lighten areas in darker conditions.

    4. Characters in a scene

    5 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Kalmadu fishing village, Passekudah, Sri Lanka, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    Many individuals find photographing people to be a daunting prospect at first. However, once you overcome your initial fears, it can be hugely rewarding. Outdoor spaces provide interesting places to capture informal shots of people. You can photograph people enjoying themselves or going about their business.

    A long-lens with a zoom is a great way to hone in on characters in a scene if you are uncomfortable shooting from nearby. Capturing images from afar doesn’t distract the people in the picture or make them feel self-conscious about being in your photo.

    5. Capturing the celebration

    6 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil temple, Nainativu, Jaffna, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    The celebration of an event, the spirit of a festival or the jovial atmosphere of a party are relatively straight forward and captivating subjects to photograph. Most participants are likely to be involved in the company of their respective groups and are relaxed about having their picture taken.

    7 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Drummers at the Temple of the Tooth, Kandy, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    Find a vantage point to capture the participants at an event and concentrate on capturing an unposed scene from an observers perspective. If you are photographing a party, enjoy the spectacle and photograph the people getting into the fun of it all.

    6. Character-driven portraits

    8 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Portrait of Tea picker, St Clairs Falls, Nuwara Eliya District, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    A person’s character is usually all that is needed to make a photograph striking or memorable. Whether this is a person’s face or distinct clothing, both present key elements that make up an individual’s appearance. Character-driven portraits provide an opportunity to capture features that are unique to the person.

    9 - 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling

    Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil temple, Nainativu, Jaffna, Sri Lanka © Jeremy Flint

    Often when you are traveling, you come across people you want to photograph. You may find some people are so full of character that you just have to photograph them. To overcome a person feeling awkward about having their picture taken, keep a distance, so they don’t look too tense or nervous.

    Conclusion

    Photographing people can be a hugely enjoyable experience. Capturing people through action, candid shots, interesting lighting, character-driven portraits, celebrations, and character-filled scenes will help improve your images. Get out there and take pictures of people during your travels using these tips and share your results with us below.

    The post 6 Ways to Photograph People While Traveling appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


    Digital Photography School

  • Our Two Tamron Contest Winners Announced

    The post Our Two Tamron Contest Winners Announced appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    The Winners of the Tamron 100-400mm (model A035), and a Tamron 45mm (model F013) lenses are…

    A HUGE Thank You to everyone who entered our recent contest from our friends at Tamron. Again, this was not actually a photography competition, but so many of you shared your beautiful photographs. We encourage you all to go back and scroll the comments section for some wonderful photos and links to reader pages and sites.

    Yet again, the response was AMAZING with thousands of shares and over 100 entries!

    But now, onto the winners! Drum roll please…and the winners are:

    Grand Prize

    Tamron 100-400mm F/4.5-6.3 Di VC USD

    The grand prize winner is: Andi S.

    Tamron 100-400mm F/4.5-6.3 Di VC USD Ultra Telephoto Zoom Lens – Value $ 799.
    Winner’s choice of Canon or Nikon mount.

    Second Prize

    Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD

    Second Prize Winner is: Shannan F.

    Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD with Hi-Resolution and image stabilization – Value $ 599.
    Winner’s choice of Canon, Nikon or Sony-A mount.

     

    We were all thrilled with the entries. You tugged at our heartstrings, made us laugh, made us smile, but most importantly, you made us keep wanting to do more of what we are doing; providing you quality information and guidance to become a better photographer. We were so pleased to see that you came from every part of the world, young adults to grandparents, and everyone in between. Thank you all for your entries!

    The winning entries

    Here are the posts from the winners of the Tamron 100-400mm F/4.5-6.3 Di VC USD, and Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD, respectively.

    Andi – The zoom is EXACTLY what I need right now. My daughter, who has cerebral palsy, has been a swimmer since she was 7. I have always been able to get decent action shots indoors in dim lighting using either a 50mm or 85mm prime lens, but,,, She has been in development camp with US Paralympics coaches and decided this year to commit to swim because she wants to make the US Paralympic Team (and she has a shot – she became the first paraswimmer in state history to compete in breaststroke two weeks ago in our state’s high school swimming championships and will swim in the Canadian-American Paraswimming Championships and probably the World Para-swimming World Series in 2019). Because she is now swimming in much larger venues, I need a lens with better reach than the primes I’ve used in the past, but these venues also have better lighting so I can get away with an f4.5-6.3 and still get decent action shots.

    Shannan – It would be DREAMY to win either of these fantastic lenses! A decade ago I learned about an organization called Now I Lay Me Down To Sleep. My daughter had been given a fatal diagnosis and NILMDTS sent a photographer to the hospital to take photos of our sweet baby as she died. I cherish those photos and am so grateful to have them. I have been working toward volunteering as a photographer for NILMDTS and the 45mm F013 would be a go-to lens to give these families the photos that they will cherish as much as I do. Hospital rooms are tight, between the equipment, staff and families and I don’t have the space for a tripod. Tamron’s fantastic VC will help me offer tack sharp images of these sweet babies and the Ultrasonic Silent Drive will help me melt into the background so I don’t disturb the event.

    Both lenses would be a great addition to my backpack as well! I love shooting nature and backpacking off trail on rugged terrain to capture the fog rolling in or a babbling brook. I have been putting off buying a telephoto lens for a while because every once counts when you are backpacking! But Tamron has made it accessible without losing quality. The VC and the moisture resistant construction are also a must. I sometimes leave the tripod at camp if I have to climb to a vista. The VC on the 100-400mm A035 is amazing and would allow me to leave that tripod back with more confidence. And, like I said, the moisture resistant construction will let me focus on the shot instead of bagging up!

    Thank you for making quality glass and giving me the opportunity to get my hands on some!

    Honorable Mentions

    We had so many wonderful entries, we have chosen ten people to receive an “Honorable Mention” prize of the Living Landscapes eBook, by dPS. The ten winners are listed below:

    * Marianne R.
    * Jimmy D.
    * Julianne H.
    * Todd M.
    * F. Tyler B.
    * JoJo R.
    * Paul B.
    * Matt C.
    * Chris
    * Bill A.

    We simply had to share this haiku comment, written by Pete M. Thank you. It made us smile.

    Lovely lens; this Prize…
    Tamron ZOOM best once again!
    (Great Honor to win.)
    – my 1st attempt at Haiku… that was fun.

    Special offer for dPS readers

    Now, for those of you that didn’t win, Tamron has invited ALL dPS readers to download their eBooks. You can find them here.

    The winners will be emailed with details of how to collect their prizes.

    Please make sure to look for our email. Thank you again for all the wonderful submissions and to Tamron for sponsoring this competition.

    Tamron Rebates

    For all of you residing in the USA, when you do purchase your next Tamron Lens, make sure to take advantage of the rebates* up to $ 100 off through March 2, 2019. Find additional information HERE!

    *Current rebate offers end March 2, 2018. US RESIDENTS ONLY.

    About Tamron

    Disclaimer: Tamron is a paid partner of dPS.

    The post Our Two Tamron Contest Winners Announced appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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  • How To Edit Real Estate Photos in Lightroom (RAW)

    Understanding the editing process is necessary for every photographer, especially if you’re in the business of real estate photography. You need to know the methods of post-processing so you are familiar with the necessary steps you have to take in order to achieve the output that you need. From the photo shoot down to the post-processing, a professional photographer should Continue Reading

    The post How To Edit Real Estate Photos in Lightroom (RAW) appeared first on Photodoto.


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  • Review: Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5 – 6.3 DG OS HSM for Wildlife Photography

    The post Review: Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5 – 6.3 DG OS HSM for Wildlife Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ian Johnson.

    Out of the box I was impressed with the build quality and features (particularly the Arca Swiss foot) of this lens.

    In 2019, Sigma is bringing a new lens to their line up. The 60-600mm f/4.5 – 6.3 DG OS HSM (available for Nikon and Canon) offers flexibility and quality as a portrait and super telephoto lens. The lens, optimized for DLSR cameras (DG), features optical stabilization (OS) and Sigma’s Hyper Sonic Motor technology (HSM). This review focuses on the applications, strengths, and weaknesses for wildlife photography. In short, I found the image sharpness, build quality, and versatility of the lens to be good. The lens may not be suitable for a full professional looking for amazing bokeh of an f/4 or f/2.8, but many will find its flexibility and image quality to be more than satisfactory. For the nitty-gritty details read the rest of this article and view my final rating below.

    First impressions

    Out of the box, this lens has a great feel. At a little under 6 pounds (2.7kg), the weight lets you know the majority of its construction is from metal. The only pieces of plastic were the hood and lens cover. The weight is not surprising considering they have to pack in the elements to give you a 60-600mm focal length. I was surprised at how short the total length of the lens was considering its impressive ability to have a 10x optical zoom.

    Here, the lens is mounted to a Nikon D810, which I used to test the lens

    Build quality

    There are some features out of the box that I noticed and appreciated immediately. Aside from the plastic pinch-style lens cap, the lens came with a padded Velcro hood cover. It was a quick way to protect the camera’s front element and provide some padding while in the case. The foot of the lens had Arca Swiss mounts built in removing the need to purchase a 3rd party plate if you use Arca Swiss tripod mounts. The hood mounted to the camera with a sturdy set screw rather than a twisting-lock design like many lenses have. Last, all mounts were metal, and the front element was large with very nice looking glass.

    The rear element of the camera has all metal mounts

    The front element of the lens has very nice looking glass

    Image Quality

    In the lab

    To examine the sharpness of the lens I took a series of images at 60, 220, and 600 mm and throughout the range of apertures (wide open to closed) at each of the focal lengths. All images were taken from a tripod and in natural lighting. The images below are entirely unedited, and I have provided samples of a 2:1 crop at approximately the center edge of each image to examine sharpness. The captions of each image dive into my observations at each particular setting, but the trend was the same throughout the tests. Edges of images were soft up to about four f-stops over wide open. The lens had a predictable sweet spot between f/10 – f/16 where edge sharpness was excellent. Sharpness tapered off from f/16 to the maximum aperture.

    At 60mm and wide open (f/4.5) there was noticeable softness in the edge of the image.

    The sweet spot of the lens was at f/14 which provided sharp edges at 60mm.

    When set at the smallest aperture there was some softness in the edge, but not nearly as much as shooting wide-open.

    Set at wide open (f/5.6) and 220mm there was noticeable softness in the edges.

    At 220mm, f/14 the edges were very sharp

    While set at 220 mm and the smallest aperture (f/29) the edges were slightly soft, but not as soft as wide open.

    At 600mm f/6.3 there was noticeable softness in the edges.

    While at 600 mm the lens was sharpest at f/16

    There was some softness in the image at 600mm and the smallest aperture (f/32)

    I brought the lens into the field to make wildlife images and test out some of its qualities. I shot all of these photos and found them to be sharp and well stabilized. Sharpness would only improve with the use of a tripod. I will use the images to highlight the strengths and weaknesses of the lens.

    I began to appreciate the incredible versatility of the broad focal range in this lens while in the field. Zooming out to 60mm allowed me to shoot contextual shots and wildlife portraits without moving my feet. The images of these swans were taken back to back – one at 60mm and the other at 600mm. The group of swans was about 40yards (~40m) away. These images are uncropped and unedited and show how the lens is capable of contextual and portrait scenes.

    This image of a Trumpeter Swan was captured at 600mm. I was able to isolate it from the group thanks to the super-telephoto lens.

    This image of a group of Trumpeter Swans was taken at 60mm and are about 40 yards away. You can see the sleeping swan on the left side of the ice that I zoomed in on for the image above. This image really shows off how much range you have between 60 and 600mm!

    I was surprised by how close I was able to focus on a subject. At 600mm I was able to focus on subjects about 6 feet away. This was a huge, huge benefit for getting near-to full frame shots of small birds. The minimum focusing distance was noticeably shorter than other telephotos I have shot. The image of this small Black-capped Chickadee I shot at 500mm at a distance of about 7 feet. It is uncropped.

    This Black-Capped Chickadee was perched about 7 feet away, and I was impressed that I was able to focus on it being that close.

    As expected with a larger minimum f-stop (f/6.3 at 600mm) it was more difficult to get amazing bokeh and subject separation. To achieve the lens sweet spot it was necessary to shoot at an aperture between f/8 – f/14. Shooting at the sweet spot resulted in background elements being more noticeable. Even at 600mm and f/6.3, it was challenging to get subject separation. When photographing small birds, this often meant distracting sticks were left relatively in focus in the shot. Although I did not shoot in twilight conditions, it would be difficult to stop moving wildlife because of slow shutter speeds related to the minimum aperture.

    This image was taken with the lens at 600mm, f/6.3. The relatively large minimum aperture left sticks in the background of the image.

    600mm is a great reach, but what if you want to go even further? I used the internal 2x (DX) crop of my Nikon D810 to double the focal length for some shots. Even though I was effectively shooting at 1,200mm handheld, the optical stabilization (OS) system in the lens allowed me to shoot clean and sharp shots. I did not test this lens with any telephoto converters.

    This timid Trumpeter Swan was shot using the DX crop built into my camera at an effective focal length of 1,200 mm. I was happy with the OS of the lens.

    Focus, accuracy, speed

    You may have noticed by now I was shooting in winter conditions while testing this lens. Even though temperatures were between 15-30F (-9 to -1degrees), the autofocus remained fast and quiet thanks to the HSM technology. I was impressed with the speed of the autofocus system in capturing moving birds.

    I relied on the fast autofocus of the lens to lock onto this passing flock of Trumpeter Swans. This image was taken at 280mm and is uncropped.

    Shots from the field

    Here are a series of shots that I made with the Sigma 60-600 during my trials. Although I’m not using these to illustrate a specific point, I think the portfolio below can help you make your own deductions on what this lens can achieve and whether it is a good fit for you.

    A Trumpeter Swan swims in an open lead of water during a bright sunset.

    Two White-tailed Deer observe their surroundings before moving through a tallgrass prairie.

    A White-tailed Deer walked through tall prairie grass in a native prairie restoration project.

    A Trumpeter Swan stands on the ice after preening itself.

    A White-breasted Nuthatch shows off its neck geometry.

    A wild Turkey struts across a field of snow.

    A Downy Woodpecker extracts a sunflower seed from a drooping head.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros:

    • Good OS for shooting handheld
    • Incredible versatility from 60-600mm
    • Can replace a couple lenses in your kit for traveling efficiency
    • Excellent build quality and Arca Swiss plate as a default

    Cons:

    • Sacrifice bokeh due to relatively large minimum f-stops
    • Edge sharpness is pretty soft at open apertures
    • It is heavy for its size and relative to comparable lenses

    The bottom line, final rating and product value

    Overall I was impressed with this lens for its versatility. I think there is a lot of appeal in having one lens that can “do it all”. However, fully professional photographers may shy away from the lens because of its minimum aperture and resulting depth of field. This lens sells for US$ 1,999 dollars. This value delivers a very nice lens with good capability. My overall rating: 8.5 out of 10.

    The post Review: Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5 – 6.3 DG OS HSM for Wildlife Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ian Johnson.


    Digital Photography School

  • 13 Inspiring Street Photography Images

    The post 13 Inspiring Street Photography Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    Street Photography is a great way to see what goes on around us day-to-day.

    Check out these inspiring street photography images from some fantastic instagram photographers.

     

     

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    Feature image: Guilherme Romano

    The post 13 Inspiring Street Photography Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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