Category: Photography

  • 5 Secrets for Stunning Creative Bird Photography

    The post 5 Secrets for Stunning Creative Bird Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Do you want to capture stunning bird photography…

    …that goes beyond the usual, standard bird photos?

    You can!

    In this article, I’ll give you 5 bird photography secrets that will ensure you consistently create incredible bird images.

    Images that are creative, unique, and original.

    Sound good?

    Let’s dive right in!

    1. Get Low for Gorgeous Bird Photography Backgrounds

    Here’s the bread-and-butter of creative bird photography:

    Get down low.

    Really low.

    It may seem tough. You might prefer to stay up high, away from the dirt and water and mud.

    But if you want incredible bird photos, you’ve got to get out of your comfort zone. You’ve got to get down low.

    Specifically, you need to get on a level with the bird. Your lens should be about even with the bird’s eye.

    Why is this so important?

    When you shoot from down low, the distance between the bird and the background is greatly increased. And that causes the background to be far more blurred.

    Therefore, you’ll capture some beautiful bokeh.

    And beautiful bokeh?

    Makes for a stunning bird photo.

    This is how professionals capture such dreamy backdrops in their bird photography.

    They get down as low as they can go. That’s all.

    It really does make a huge difference!

    Try it. I can guarantee that you won’t regret the resulting shots.

    2. Shoot in water for stunning reflections

    Do you want to capture especially gorgeous bird photography?

    One of my favorite ways to do this…

    …is to shoot reflections.

    Let me explain:

    A photo of a bird is nice. It’s standard. It can be beautiful.

    But if you add a reflection, the image immediately becomes far more captivating. Viewers are instantly sucked into the scene.

    The reflection adds a sense of subtle beauty and delicateness – one that you can’t get any other way.

    Now, here’s how you capture gorgeous bird reflections:

    First, shoot by still water.

    Mudflats (with puddles) work well. Same with sheltered lakes.

    If you’re struggling to find water still enough to generate full reflections, try shooting during the early morning. That’s when the wind tends to be a lot less noticeable.

    Second, make sure the sun is low in the sky. (The lower, the better.) This will ensure that the reflection includes some nice colors.

    You also have to be careful not to get too low over the water.

    Why?

    If you’re too low, the full reflection won’t come through. And a broken reflection has far less power than a full reflection.

    Bottom line?

    Find some birds near the water, and start taking photos!

    3. Capture action for compelling bird photos

    One of the biggest problems with beginning bird photography…

    …is that it’s static.

    The bird just stands in the frame.

    And while there are methods of making this type of photo work, it’s often just a boring photo.

    That’s why you should spice up your bird photos using action.

    Once you’ve found a subject, watch it through your camera. Keep your finger on the shutter button.

    Then, as soon as it starts to move, take a burst of photos. The more photos, the better!

    Of course, you’re going to have a lot of failed shots. But you’ll also capture some keepers. And these will (with a little luck) blow you away!

    Some of my favorite shots involve birds flapping their wings, preening, or feeding. If you wait for this behavior, you’ll get some stellar action shots.

    One thing I’d recommend:

    When you’re watching a bird through the camera viewfinder, keep some space between the bird and the edge of the frame.

    Because birds can rapidly change their size – just by opening their wings. And clipped body parts are one of the easiest ways to ruin a bird photo.

    Just remember these tips, and you’ll be capturing some great action photos in no time!

    4. Shoot through vegetation for unique images

    Another way to capture original images…

    …is to find a subject.

    Get down low.

    And shoot through some vegetation.

    This creates a gorgeous foreground wash – one that frames the subject without dominating the photo.

    To pull this off, you generally have to lie flat on the ground. I advise experimenting with a few different angles – move around your subject, testing different possible foregrounds.

    Note: It’s important that the vegetation is very close to your lens (and very far from your subject). Because the farther the vegetation is from your lens, the more in focus (and distracting) it becomes.

    It’s also important to limit the amount of vegetation in the photo. You don’t want to cover up the bird entirely. Instead, you want to frame the bird with the vegetation.

    Make sense?

    Then start taking some shots with a foreground wash. You’ll love the shots you get.

    5. Capture silhouettes for dramatic bird shots

    Here’s one more way to capture creative bird photos:

    Shoot silhouettes!

    Silhouettes are really easy to pull off – and they look incredible.

    Here’s how you do it:

    Go out as the sun is just about to set. Find a subject (birds with a clear outline are best).

    Then change your position so that the bird is between you and the setting sun. Ideally, the bird blocks the sun from your camera. This will prevent the sky from being completely blown out.

    Make sure that the bird is in front of as much of the sky as possible.

    That is, you want to frame the bird with sky – and you don’t want any dark patches behind the bird (from trees or other objects).

    If you’re struggling with this, try getting down as low as you can. Because the lower you get, the more sky you’ll include in the frame.

    Finally, ensure that you drastically underexpose your subject. One trick is to set the exposure based on the sky next to the bird.

    That way, you’ll get a beautiful sky – with a nicely silhouetted subject.

    Creative bird photography: next steps

    Now you know how to capture stunning, original bird photos.

    You know how to produce amazing backgrounds.

    You know how to generate interest.

    And you know how to capture incredible foregrounds.

    The next step…

    …is to get out and shoot!

    Have any tips for creative bird photography? Share them in the comments!

    The post 5 Secrets for Stunning Creative Bird Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • The Real Consequences of Taking a Break from Photography

    The post The Real Consequences of Taking a Break from Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

    Have you ever felt fed up with your photography? Disillusioned? Frustrated? Uninspired? Burnt out? If that’s the case for you, you are not alone in those feelings. Most of us feel that way at some point or another, often on multiple occasions. Fortunately, there is and always has been a lot of sound advice available for when you feel that way.

    Advice that prompts you to try new techniques for a different perspective and a fresh outlook is one great example of common advice that may help you to overcome the frustration.

    Sometimes doing something different, like getting out of the studio, can be enough to give you a fresh perspective on things.

    This article discusses one particular piece of common advice that’s given to photographers a lot. You will have probably heard (or read it) given to someone else at some point, even if it hasn’t been given to you. That advice is when you feel this way, take a break from photography. On the surface, this can seem like a great idea and a great piece of advice. However, once you dig a bit deeper and dissect the possible outcomes (as this article does), you should see that the repercussions of following through with a break from photography can be significant.

    Where is this coming from

    This topic is quite personal. I followed this advice several years ago after struggling with severe burn out. Because of this, the topics discussed in this article are based on some of the things I experienced after taking a break. That said, even though this is quite personal, I try to keep that aspect out of this article as much as possible and keep things analytical and leave the anecdotes to a minimum.

    Even so, you’re situation and experiences won’t be the same as mine. I may have experienced these consequences, but that doesn’t mean you will. If you are considering taking a break from your photography, do have a good, hard think about if any of this applies to you.

    There are benefits

    Taking a break did allow me the chance to spend time creating images that matter to no one other than me.

    As mentioned, the advice photographers often get is to take a break from photography. This does have some benefits (and I did experience those).

    By taking a step back, you can gain both space and time to give things an honest appraisal and discover exactly what is causing the feelings of frustration that led you to the point of wanting to take a break in the first place. This a huge advantage and if used well, you can take that insight and fix, or cut out, whatever was causing your frustrations.

    Some of the things that are easier to evaluate from a safe distance include: what you like and don’t like, the direction your photography is heading in, your working habits, and your personal values and how they apply to your photography.

    I used to use a white background a lot because I loved it. At some point, I stopped loving it and became bored, but didn’t realize until I took a long step back.

    That time can also give you the opportunity to let some information sink in. If there’s a concept or a technique that you just can’t wrap your head around, stepping away from actively pursuing it gives your brain the opportunity to work on the problem in the background.

    The downsides

    While the positive consequences of taking a break can be obvious, some of the potential negative consequences are less so.

    Habits and systems

    As you develop as a photographer, so does your list of processes and systems that help you achieve what you do. A post-processing workflow is just one example of something that may be disrupted by taking an extended break from photography.

    If you’ve been involved with photography for any amount of time, you have gradually built a series of habits and systems that you go through every time you take photos. This could be your post-processing workflow, it could be the way you research locations, or it could be the way you conduct yourself on social media.

    The thing is, these habits and processes were built step by step. You didn’t just wake up one day and have a complete post-processing workflow in place.

    When you decide to take a break, you’re taking a break from your habits and routines. If these were developed over years of practice and daily ritual, what happens when your break is over? Chances are, when you come back, you may very well struggle to jump back into those complex habits. Instead of building things up gradually, you are trying to get back into a routine all at once. This can extremely difficult at the best of times.

    While on my break, I spent a fair amount of time shooting landscapes for fun and as an excuse to be outside. While fun, landscape photography requires a very different approach and set of processes to portraits.

    If you think about this just in the context of social media, posting content everyday (or at least regularly) can be a significant job with plenty of work going into each post. Stopping that routine and then trying to come back to it months later could be overwhelming and it might take significant effort to overcome a challenge like that.

    Once you add that to the possibility that once you step away from social media, you may very well recognize just how toxic it can be, which makes it all the harder to willingly step back into that arena.

    Things change

    Depending on how long your break is for, things that you take for granted can change dramatically. My break lasted a couple of years. In that time, Photoshop transformed into something only slightly recognizable. Lightroom transformed into the go-to for photographers, and Instagram went from iOS users only to taking over the world.

    You can probably see the disadvantages here. In this technological world, everything changes at a ridiculous pace. By taking time out, you are removing yourself from a position where you can adjust to these changes as they happen. When you decide to come back, you now have an enormous workload of stuff that you have to learn or relearn just to put yourself at the same level you were before.

    People change

    If you’re a portrait photographer, or any sort of social photographer, this is probably the most applicable point to you.

    Much as the tools of the trade change over time, so will your network. Once you’re on a break, any previous contacts or clients will move on and find another photographer. Models, make-up artist and other collaborators may move on or change focus themselves.

    Over time, your network of clients, collaborators and co-conspirators changes organically. However, if you’re on a break, you don’t have as many opportunities to add new people to your network.

    This applies equally to social media and real life networking.

    If you weren’t on a break, this would still happen, but your network would still be growing naturally. However, if you’re not there to grow that network, the holes that these people leave will be empty once your break is over. If your break is an extended one over a couple years, you may come back to find that the network that you put a significant amount of time and effort into building is decimated.

    Piecing it back together

    All of these things on their own may not seem insurmountable, but once you add them all together, they can accumulate to an enormous challenge that will set you back in both time and effort.

    Having to refocus on these things also means that once you’ve decided that you’re ready to come back to photography, you have to put a great deal of time into the things that aren’t photography.

    For a lot of people who are frustrated and disillusioned with their photography, it is often these ancillary administrative tasks that cause the feelings of frustration and disillusionment in the first place.

    Weigh your choices

    If you are in a position where you are considering taking a break, I understand and I empathize. A lot of photographers have been there before.

    Before you make a decision, please, please take the time to consider all of the possible consequences of taking a break.

    Again, my circumstances will be different from yours and your consequences may not look remotely like mine, but there will be consequences that you may not be able to see yet. Please try to take them into account.

    Have you taken a break from photography or considering it? Feel free to share your experiences in the comments below.

    The post The Real Consequences of Taking a Break from Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


    Digital Photography School

  • Snapshot from a Life of Paddling Photographer

    8 hours in front of a computer. Processing pictures and video clips, describing, keywording and submitting to stock agencies. 4pm: My computer is busy uploading videos and I am driving into the Poudre Canyon. Here I am in my field […]
    paddling with a camera

  • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color BLUE and its use in Photography

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color BLUE and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

    As one of the three primary colors in traditional colour theory and the RGB colour model, blue’s greatest impact is in its capacity to convey strong emotion. Painter Vincent van Gogh once said “I never get tired of the blue sky”, his fascination proving integral to many of his most famous paintings. In this article, we’ll have a detailed look at the history of blue in visual arts and what it means for your photography.

    The psychology of blue

    Color has a profound effect on our psychology. Rayleigh scattering, an optical phenomenon that causes the sea and sky to appear blue, forges a psychological association between the color blue and the perceived qualities of blue in nature. For example, the ancient duality of the sea and the sky generates a visual relationship between blue and impressions of consistency and trust. Blue’s associations with water tie it to cleanliness and refreshment but also tears. Consequently, a person experiencing sadness is said to be feeling blue.

    The cool light of winter and the blue tint of ice draws connections between blue and the cold. Clear blue skies have become synonymous with happiness, relaxation and tranquility. The blue tint of daylight helps regulate our circadian rhythms. Blue also lowers stress levels, stimulating calm. This has practical applications; hospitals are often painted in shades of blue to help ease patient anxiety. Additionally, many medications are dispensed in blue pill form.

    Blue is believed to symbolize the male gender in the Western cultures – though this hasn’t always been the case. In China, blue manifests itself as a color of healing, relaxation and immortality. In countries like Turkey, Greece and Albania, blue is said to repel evil. Hindu tradition associates blue with Krishna, a deity that embodies love, virtue and divinity. Furthermore, in German, Swedish and Norwegian languages, a naive person is said to look upon the world with a blue eye.

    Jodhpur – the blue city of India.

    The evolution of the color blue

    Egyptian blue

    Egyptian blue is considered to be the first synthetic pigment. Produced by the ancient Egyptians from around 2,200 BC, Egyptian blue was made from a mixture of ground limestone, sand and a copper-containing mineral (like azurite or malachite). The mixture was heated up to 1650°F, producing an opaque blue glass. The glass was then crushed and combined with thickening agents for application.

    Associated with the River Nile and the sky, ancient Egyptians used Egyptian blue to paint murals, statues and ceramics. Eventually, Egyptian blue spread to the Near East, the Eastern Mediterranean and the Roman Empire. Egyptian blue’s usage continued throughout the Late and Greco-Roman periods. However, the pigment died out in the 4th century AD, when the recipe for its manufacture was lost.

    Ultramarine

    Lapis lazuli first appeared as a pigment in 6th to 7th century AD paintings in Afghanistani Zoroastrian and Buddhist temples. During the 14th and 15th centuries, Italian traders shipped the pigment to Europe. There, it was called ultramarine or ultramarinus (meaning beyond the sea in Latin).

    For centuries, the cost of ultramarine pigment rivaled the price of gold. Subsequently, artists used ultramarine in only the most imperative aspects of a painting. This judicious application culminated in associations between the color blue and status.

    Ultramarine remained almost prohibitively expensive until an artificial process was discovered in 1828 by Jean Baptiste Guimet. Commercial production of the synthetic ultramarine had commenced by 1830, and became known as French ultramarine.

    Cobalt blue

    In the 8th and 9th centuries, cobalt blue was used to color porcelain and jewelry in China. An alumina-based version of cobalt blue was later discovered by the French chemist, Louis Jacques Thénard in 1802. Commercial production of the pigment began in France in 1807.

    Lightfast, stable and compatible with other pigments, Impressionists such as Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Claude Monet readily adopted cobalt blue as an alternative to pricey ultramarine. Post-Impressionists such as Vincent van Gogh and Paul Cezanne also made use of cobalt blue. According to the Musee d’Orsay, van Gogh used a combination of Prussian blue, cobalt and ultramarine to create the nighttime hues of Starry Night Over the Rhone. Van Gogh himself stated that “cobalt is a divine color and there is nothing so beautiful for creating atmosphere…”

    Cerulean

    Cerulean is a Latin word which translates as sky blue. Originally composed of cobalt magnesium stannate, cerulean was refined by a process developed in 1805 by Andreas Höpfner in Germany. Cerulean wasn’t sold as an artist’s pigment until 1860 by Rowney and Company. When it did become available, however, the color, ranging between azure and dark sky blue, proved popular among artists.

    In 1999, Pantone released a statement declaring Cerulean Blue as the color for the millennium. Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, stated that “…cerulean blue could bring on a certain peace because it reminds you of time spent outdoors, on a beach, near the water…in addition, it makes the unknown a little less frightening because the sky…is a constant…that’s the dependability factor of blue.”

    Lisa Herbert, vice president, corporate communications worldwide, Pantone Inc., went on to say “our studies show that blue is the leading favorite color…regardless of culture, gender or geographic origin….[in the] U.S. [and] Europe and Asia as well. We’ve chosen cerulean blue as the official color for the millennium because of its mass appeal.”

    Cerulean is the Latin word for sky blue

    Prussian blue

    Prussian blue was apparently discovered by accident. Around 1706, pigment and dye producer Johann Jacob Diesbach was mixing crushed cochineal insects, iron sulfate and potash to create cochineal red lake. Unbeknownst to him, the potash he used was contaminated with animal blood. The resulting concoction turned out to be the first modern synthetic pigment, a rich, dark blue that was quickly recognized for its artistic applications.

    Inexpensive, easily produced, non-toxic, and intensely colored, Prussian blue spread throughout the art world. Pieter van der Werff’s The Entombment of Christ is the oldest known example of Prussian blue in an artwork. Other early examples include Antoine Watteau’s Pilgrimage to Cythera and paintings produced in Berlin in 1710 by Antoine Pesne.

    Japanese woodblock artist Katsushika Hokusai used Prussian blue (as well as indigo dye) to create the Great Wave off Kanagawa. In 1842, English scientist and astronomer Sir John Herschel’s experimentations with Prussian blue led to the invention of the cyanotype.

    International Klein blue

    International Klein Blue (IKB) is a deep blue hue developed by French artist Yves Klein and Edouard Adam, a Parisian art paint supplier. Klein suspended his favorite ultramarine pigment in a matte, synthetic resin binder made of petroleum extracts. This allowed the rich blue hue to be applied without the loss of vibrancy. Single-colored canvases as well as elaborate performative undertakings were underpinned by Klein’s extensive use of the brilliant IKB.

    YInMn blue

    Much like Prussian blue, YlnMn (pronounced Yin Min) blue was discovered by accident. In 2009 at Oregon State University, Professor Mas Subramanian and his then-graduate student Andrew E. Smith were investigating new materials for making electronics. The pair were experimenting with the properties of manganese oxide by heating it to approximately 2000 °F. What emerged from the furnace however, was a striking blue compound.  Named after its chemical makeup of yttrium, indium, and manganese, YlnMn blue pigment was released for commercial use in June 2016. According to paint company Derivan YlnMn blue is “non-toxic with excellent archival attributes”.

    Blue in visual arts

    Ancient art to the Renaissance

    Blue is an enduring presence throughout art history. Ancient Egyptians decorated murals and tombs with shades of blue. The walls of Roman villas in Pompeii had frescoes of blue skies. Greek artists used blue as a background colour behind the friezes on Greek temples and to colour the beards of statues.

    Dark blue was widely used in the decoration of churches in the Byzantine Empire. Byzantine art depicted Christ and the Virgin Mary dressed in dark blue or purple. Elaborate dark blue and turquoise tiles were used to decorate mosques and palaces from Spain to Central Asia.

    At the beginning of the Middle Ages in Europe, blue played a less significant role to that of other colors. However, in the 12th century, painters in Italy and greater Europe were instructed by the Roman Catholic Church to paint the robes of the Virgin Mary with ultramarine, the newest and most expensive pigment at the time. The Virgin Mother’s updated wardrobe resulted in blue being associated with holiness, humility and virtue.

    During the Renaissance, artists began to paint the world as it was seen in real life, mixing blue hues with lead white paint to articulate shadows and highlights. In Titian’s Noli me Tangere and Bacchus and Ariadne, different shades of blue are layered to cultivate depth and tension. In another example, Raphael’s Madonna of the Meadow depicts Mary wearing a deep blue mantle set against a red dress, a striking contrast against a background populated with brown and light blue hues.

    Rococo to contemporary art

    The Rococo art movement depicted mythology and light-hearted portrayals of upper-class domestic life with pastel blue skies and rich blue furnishings. Romanticism used blue predominantly to convey drama in the heavens, and Impressionists like Claude Monet used blue to investigate light and movement in both natural and artificial landscapes.

    Emphasizing strong colour over the representational, Fauvist Henri Matisse’s figures in Dance circle naked under an open blue sky. Expressionist van Gogh’s seminal Starry Night, conveys the night sky in active blues and yellows. Cubist Pablo Picasso’s extensive use of Prussian blue defined his Blue Period while Surrealists adopted blue to simultaneously orientate and disorientate the viewer.

    From the 20th century artists began to free themselves from the confines of the literal. As a result, artists looked to color as a tool to channel emotion. Exemplified in abstract expressionism, Jackson Pollock‘s Blue Poles, is made up of chaotic strands of blacks, greens, oranges, whites, yellows and grays tempered by nine vertical blue lines. Mark Rothko experimented extensively with blue, as did Barnett Newman, both artists using color as a device to transcend the confines of the canvas. And Helen Frankenthaler‘s stained blues emphasize both the flattening and dimensionality of space.

    With the arrival of modern technologies and materials, contemporary examples of blue in art are rich and varied. Roger Hiorns’ crystalline Seizure, transformed space with color, light and chemistry. Katharina Fritsch’s Hahn/Cock plays with our sense of scale and relationship to animals. And Anish Kapoor’s Sky Mirror, Blue challenges our perceptions of an urban environment, re-imagining the landscape through the lens of a large, blue concave mirror.

    Blue in photography

    Birthed from nature and art, blue’s associations play a critical role in conveying the nature of the photographic image. Luigi Ghirri explored the relationship between shape and space by incorporating large fields of blue sky into his imagery. Color pioneer Martin Parr makes use of rich blues to create a surreal juxtaposition between subject, object and nature. Bill Henson uses blue hues to cultivate experiential photographic dramas. David Burdeny photographs precision landscapes, using blue to illustrate the materiality of his abstract vistas. While Gregory Crewdson and Didier Massard both use blue to signal time, place and atmosphere throughout their imagery.

    The color blue has other applications in photography too. Occurring just after sunset and just before sunrise, the blue hour is a period when the sun drops below the horizon and residual sunlight takes on a blue hue. Valued for its soft quality of light, blue hour is popular with portrait and landscape photographers. In addition, blue filters (applied on-camera or in post production) are used in black and white photography to increase the appearance of mist and haze.

    Conclusion

    Yves Klein once said “blue has no dimensions, it is beyond dimensions”. Over history, blue has communicated the ineffable, transcending colour and touching on our spirituality and sense of self. Associated with nature, calm, reverence, purity, trust and sorrow, blue embodies the visual weight of emotion and human experience.

    Have you used blue in your photography? Feel free to share them with us in the comments below.

    You may also like:

    Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color RED and it’s use in Photography

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    mastering color series - Blue

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color BLUE and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review: DJI Mavic 2 Zoom

    The post Review: DJI Mavic 2 Zoom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

    Photography is an ever evolving medium. New gear, new technology and new ways of seeing the world make it an extremely exciting time to be a photographer right now.

    Over the last year or so I’ve become more and more interested in aerial photography and getting new perspectives for my work. And wouldn’t you know it, DJI just released another brand new tool for aerial photography in August of 2018. So when I had the opportunity to test it out, I didn’t hesitate. I give you…

    …wait for it…

    …the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    Out of the box

    Sleek, compact and understated; that’s how I would describe the appearance of the Mavic 2 Zoom. DJI has chosen a color scheme that should be familiar to those who have experienced the previous model upon which they have based the Mavic 2 Zoom upon – the Mavic Pro. The drone itself is dark gray with a silver belly and matching silver accents. You’ll notice that while the overall lines have been maintained, the Mavic 2 Zoom is a completely different animal when compared to its predecessor.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    The gimbal cover of the Mavic 2 has also been updated to protect the camera during transport. While easy to remove, I have to admit reattaching the gimbal cover was slightly confusing the first time I attempted it. Luckily, DJI has included a quick diagram to help with this.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-gimbal-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    Who knows, maybe it was just me being clumsy? In any case, once you get the hang of the new gimbal cover, reattaching it becomes essentially like riding a bike.

    The Mavic 2 Zoom has incorporated a set of legitimate landing and take-off lights to aid in low-light situations when the bottom-facing obstacle sensors may have difficulty discerning where the ground may be. Speaking of sensors, DJI has enhanced the Mavic 2 Zoom with Omnidirectional Obstacle Sensing technology (more on that later) for side, front and rear obstacle avoidance. These sensors are readily visible throughout the breadth of the aircraft yet somehow the body of the drone doesn’t appear overly cluttered.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    The controller for the Mavic 2 Zoom has received a light makeover as well. I was happy to see the addition of the fantastic “stow and go” joysticks present on the Mavic AIR controller to this new iteration of Mavic controllers. When not in use, the joysticks can be packed away beneath the folding wings of the controller.

    This makes stashing your controller in your bag much easier and less likely to snag or less ideally, break.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-controller-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    Shown with joysticks attached

    Most of the contact surfaces are rubberized, and the controller feels great even when using a larger smartphone like my Samsung S8 Active.

    Speaking of phones, an incredibly cool feature of the Mavic 2 Zoom controller is that it charges your phone should your phone’s battery level drop to below 40% during flight. How cool is that?

    Thanks for having our backs, DJI.

    With that said, you will almost certainly need to remove your phone case (should you have one) to make everything fit within the controller. Of course, you might not have to, but keep that in mind before you fly.

    Another feature, albeit possibly not as overtly impressive for some as it was to me, is the addition of an integrated charging cable built right into the included battery charger.

    This controller is also identical and interchangeable with the controller for the Mavic 2 Zoom

    This enables the user to always have a way to charge their controllers should they misplace or not have another cable to charge the controller.

    With the introductions complete, let’s get down to business and see how well the Mavic 2 Zoom performs in the air.

    Flight performance

    In comparison to the Mavic Pro, it’s safe to say that DJI has improved virtually every area of flight performance in the Mavic 2 Zoom. They have increased the maximum speed and the overall flight time and distance capability. Even though descent/ascent speeds have remained the same as the Mavic Pro (impressive in its own right), it’s easy to see that the Mavic 2 Zoom is very much an upgrade in terms of its ability to fly further faster and with more confidence.

    • Dimensions Folded: 214×91×84 mm (length×width×height)
    • Dimensions Unfolded: 322×242×84 mm (length×width×height) with 354mm at diagonal
    • Weight: 1.99 lbs(905g) with battery and propellers attached
    • Maximum flight time: 31 minutes at constant 15.5 mph(25 kph)
    • Maximum hover time: 29 minutes(no wind)
    • Operating temperatures: 14° F to 104° F(-10°C to 40°C)
    • Maximum speed: 44.7 mph(72 kph) (S-mode)
    • Maximum ascent speed: 5 m/s (S-mode), 4 m/s (P-mode)
    • Maximum descent speed: 3 m/s (S-mode), 3 m/s (P-mode)
    • Maximum altitude: 19,685ft above sea level (6000m)

    The Mavic 2 Zoom is about 2g lighter in total weight but all other performance statistics regarding speed, dimensions and flight are precisely the same as the new DJI Mavic 2 Pro drone. In fact, it’s safe to say that the Mavic 2 Zoom and Mavic 2 Pro use the same drone body. The only difference being their respective camera systems.

    Don’t believe me?

    Here is the Mavic 2 and Mavic 2 Zoom side by side. If you can’t tell, why should I?

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    In flight, the Mavic 2 Zoom is nimble with great response time. The propellers have been redesigned to make them quieter when compared to the Mavic Pro. Unfortunately, this also means that the propellers are not interchangeable between the two aircraft. So, you won’t be able to buy a set of Mavic 2 props to quiet down your older Mavic. Sorry folks.

    Acceleration is quite impressive, with stops being not overly abrupt. Of course, many of these observations depend on how you have the responsiveness of your controller configured. Speaking of that, DJI has placed the three main flight modes for the Mavic 2 Zoom on the right side of the controller. These modes are Tripod (T), Positioning (P) and Sport (S).

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-controller-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    When in T-mode, the speed of the drone becomes greatly reduced as well as the acceleration and deceleration making it great for slow and controlled pans. Also, all of the Mavic 2 Zoom’s Omnidirectional Obstacle sensors are enabled.

    P-mode could be called the “standard” flight mode. In P-mode, all of the Intelligent Flight modes are available.

    Lastly, we have blazing-fast S-mode. In sport mode, all obstacle avoidance is disabled which means you’re entirely on your own. The fun part? The Mavic 2 Zoom can then hit a top speed of nearly 45mph (72.4kph). The Mavic 2 Zoom can also allow the pilot to select from pre-programmed intelligent flight modes which are great for obtaining footage that would otherwise be difficult for the average user.

    Intelligent Flight Modes

    • ActiveTrack 2.0(with improved 3D subject tracking) Capable of identifying up to 16 subjects and track 1
    • Cinematic Mode (dampens the drone’s movements for increased stability) Softens the breaking period for increased video smoothness
    • Hyperlapse Moves the drone through out the acquisition of time lapses
    • QuickShots (outlined below)
    • Points Of Interest (POI 2.0) Allows the user to choose a subject and instruct the drone to keep it in frame based on a predetermined altitude and speed while circling
    • Waypoint Navigation The Mavic 2 Zoom will fly to a series of locations chosen on the map
    • Tap-to-Fly Select a map area and the drone will automatically fly to that spot

    QuickShot Intelligent Flight Modes

    • Dolly Zoom An interesting cinematic zoom effect…Hitchcock style
    • Asteroid Essentially contorts your scene into spherical illusion
    • Boomerang The drone will fly in an ellipse around the subject and automatically start and stop filming in the same place
    • Rocket The Mavic 2 Zoom will take off vertically with the camera flowing your subject
    • Circle Enables the drone to fly in a circle around the subject at a predetermined altitude and distance
    • Dronie Pre-programmed upward flight with the drone moving backward all the while tracking the subject
    • Helix The drone will upward and away while maintaining view of your subject

    Zoom Zoom

    If you’re like me, then I figure you’re extremely interested in the camera of the Mavic 2 Zoom. After all, unless you just like flying a drone around the sky (which is fun too), the real reason you’re doing it all is to get awesome aerial photos and videos.

    The elephant in the room is, of course, the zoom feature which is the Mavic 2 Zoom’s namesake. It has a 2x optical zoom plus an additional digital zoom capability (which DJI reports being lossless) when shooting video in FHD 1080p. DJI also reports the Mavic 2 Zoom to be capable of producing images with 13-stops of dynamic range. That’s impressive.

    Here’s a rundown of the major camera features from the DJI website:

    • Sensor: 12MP 1/2.3″ CMOS
    • Focal Length: 35 mm equivalent of 24-48 mm
    • Maximum Aperture: f/2.8 (24 mm) – f/3.8 (48 mm)
    • Shutter Speed Range: 8–1/8000s
    • ISO Range: 100-3200 for video, 100-1600 (auto) 100-3200 (manual) for photo
    • Internal Memory Storage: 8GB
    • Image Formats: JPEG / DNG (RAW)
    • Video Formats: MP4 / MOV (MPEG-4 AVC/H.264, HEVC/H.265)
    • Video Resolution: 4K: 3840×2160 24/25/30p
      2.7K: 2688×1512 24/25/30/48/50/60p
      FHD: 1920×1080 24/25/30/48/50/60/120p

    The camera of the Mavic 2 Zoom also incorporates some flashy new in-camera functionalities. It’s “Super Resolution” feature is incredibly interesting. It is essentially an onboard image stitching tool which can create images with a total resolution of approximately 48MP.

    Not only that, but the Mavic 2 Zoom also sports DJI’s new “Hyperlight” mode for increasing image quality during extremely lowlight flights.

    Here are a few test images made with the Mavic 2 Zoom.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    To give a better understanding of what that 24-48mm focal length actually brings you in terms of zoom capability, here are two frames for comparison. The first shot at 24mm….

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    24mm at f/2.8

    …and the second at 48mm

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    48mm at f/3.8

    Why not two more? Each one is a 1-second exposure which speaks to the stabilization of that 3-axis gimbal.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    24mm at f/2.8

    Then zooming in to 48mm on that tower the distance.

    dji-mavic-2-zoom-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

    48mm at f/3.8

    I feel it’s worth mentioning that those last two nighttime images were made in a well-known and open area with the drone constantly in site. Be extremely cautious should you operate any aircraft in dark conditions.

    Lastly, here is a quick bit of video footage shot using the Mavic 2 Zoom and a few of its features.

    Final thoughts on the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom

    The ability to zoom with the camera of the Mavic 2 Zoom adds in a new flavor of excitement to an already exciting drone. The aerobatics of the DJI’s latest entry to the Mavic lineup is impressive for any drone. Especially one marketed as a “consumer grade” aircraft.

    With a camera capable of all sorts of high-end feats of imagery, it’s hard to draw the line between consumer and professional performance. From the Intelligent Flight features to the increased flight time and speed, refined obstacle avoidance system and compact form factor, the Mavic 2 Zoom is very much a welcome breath of fresh air to the aerial photography and videography community. Not only does it produce excellent still images and video, but the overall experience of operating this little aircraft is an absolutely enjoyable experience.

    Have you used the Mavic 2 Zoom yet? Let us know in the comments how you like it and how it compares to any other drones you might have piloted.

     

    review of the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom Drone

    The post Review: DJI Mavic 2 Zoom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One

    The post How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

    It is a known fact that images viewed on computer monitors don’t always match what comes out of inkjet printers. This is because the color pixels captured by digital cameras are defined quite differently than the pixels portrayed on the computer monitor and the monitor’s pixels differ quite significantly from the ink patterns that are literally sprayed onto the paper.

    But even though both inkjet printers and printing presses both use CMYK inks, the images printed on inkjet printers usually don’t produce the same appearance when printed in publications. This is quite true, but why?

    Color images are displayed differently on each device because the technologies for each medium use different processes; monitors (left), inkjet (middle), and halftones (right).

    The answer to this mystery eludes many of today’s magazine publishers and even many publication printers. This is a problem that the digital imaging community (photographers, image editors, and pre-press operators) have struggled with for decades. Color Management Professionals (CMPs) undergo rigorous color science studies to understand how to maintain the same look in color images that are reproduced on different substrates and a variety of printing processes. Since you may want to produce your images in print, we’ll look at a synopsis of what the challenges are and some surefire ways to produce the results you’re looking for.

    First and foremost, cameras and monitors capture and project color images as RGB light but all ink-based printers must convert these RGB colors into CMYK colors behind the scene! Even though you send RGB files to your inkjet printer, the printer doesn’t rely on RGB inks to produce all the colors in the prints. RGB colors are for projecting colors while CMYK colors are used to print colors.

    Projected colors are always viewed in RGB while printed colors are always produced from some formulation of CMYK inks. That’s simply how color science works. Printers don’t print the RGB colors directly. While you send RGB images to your inkjet printer, it converts those colors into some form of CMYK during the printing process. Even when you send an RGB file to your eight-color printer, the base CMYK colors are augmented by slight amounts of Photo Cyan, Photo Magenta, Red, and Green colors. However, there has been one printer (the Oce´ LightJet) that produced color prints from RGB, but it didn’t use printing inks… it was a photographic printer that exposed photographic paper and film using RGB light. This printer is no longer manufactured.

    Each printing process utilizes a unique pattern to express the variable tones between solid and white.

    Viva le difference

    The inkjet printing process is completely different from the print reproduction process. As a matter of fact, the two systems are overtly dissimilar. If your images are headed for print and you are not sure of which printing process will be utilized, you might be headed for trouble. Here’s why.

    The possible surfaces for inkjet printing vary wildly and include everything from paper to wood, from metal to fabric, and on virtually every surface and texture in-between. To accommodate this range of printing applications, inkjet “inks” are liquid rather than solid, so they can be applied to varied surfaces and substrates.

    Dots versus spots. The peanut butter consistency of press inks and the well-defined shapes of the halftone dots used by the printing industry differ significantly from the liquid inks and less defined “micro-dot” dithering used by the inkjet printing process.

    The color spots produced by inkjet printing systems may include more than a dozen colors and are liquid to accommodate almost any surface. Printing press dots are well-defined symmetrical shapes and are much thicker consistency to accommodate the high-speed transfer to paper. Both inks are translucent because they must blend to create other colors.

    The extremely small inkjet droplets appear more like a mist than a defined pattern; each pixel value (0-255) creating a metered amount of microscopic spots so small that the human eye perceives them as continuous tones. Due to the smoothness of the tones and graduations of color, inkjet images require a bit of sharpening to deliver detail (detail remember is a product of contrast, and contrast is not a natural inkjet strength).

    Dot structure of halftone images (left) and color dither pattern (right).

    Both the inkjet and publication systems convert the RGB (red, green, and blue) values of each pixel into equivalent CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) values before printing those colors onto paper. However, after the color conversion, the two processes take decidedly different paths to deliver ink on paper.

    While printing presses use grid-based, well-defined dots that are impressed into paper surfaces, inkjet printers utilize micro-dot patterns sprayed onto surfaces. The same image may appear in several different forms during the reproduction process. Original image (far left), digital pixel (near left), printed halftone (near right) and Inkjet dither (far right)

    Publications use the geometric structure of halftone dots to interpret pixel values as tonal values on paper surfaces. Each pixel produces up to four overprinted color halftone dots. These halftones dots translate darker values of each color into large dots and lighter values into smaller dots. The full range of darkest-to-lightest tones produce dots that vary in size depending on the press and paper being printed.

    To avoid the visually annoying conflict that occurs when geometric grids collide (called a moire pattern), each CMYK grid pattern is set on a very carefully calculated angle. The positive advantage that inkjet images have over halftone images is that the image resolution required for inkjet prints is significantly less than the resolution required by the halftone process employed by publication images.

    However, the most important issues to address with print have to do with color fidelity and tonal reproduction. The difference in the way inkjet images and publication images are prepared makes a huge difference in the way the images appear when they come out the delivery end of the process.

    Inkjet printers are like ballet dancers while printing presses are more like Sumo wrestlers; not unlike chamber music versus thunder roll. One is quiet, graceful and articulate, the other noisy, violent and powerful.

    The biggest difference between the two processes can be seen in the highlight and shadow areas. Inkjet inks are sprayed onto substrates through a very controlled matrix of 720-1440 spots per inch using a slow and measured inches-per-minute process. Publication presses smash ink into the paper under extreme pressure, at speeds measured in images-per-minute, translating the entire tonal range into a limited geometric matrix of just 150 variable-size dots per inch. Publication presses are huge, high-speed, rotary rubber stamps.

    Inkjet printers carefully step the paper through the machine in an extremely precise manner while the printing press shows no such restraint. Presses display an amazing ability to control the placement and transfer of images in spite of the blazing speed of the process.

    You might be able to dress a Hippopotamus in a tutu, but you can’t expect it to pirouette. There are simply physical limitations. At production speeds, the shadow details suffer, delicate highlights tend to drop-off rather abruptly, and the middle tones print darker. The printing industry is aware of this dot gain issues and compensates for them with G7 process controls and compensation plate curves, but the beast remains a beast.

    There’s a pretty good chance that both color and tonal detail will be unwittingly lost in the printing process if nominally prepared images are sent to press. Having spent many years of my career in both photo labs and the pressroom, I can assure you that detail in both the lightest portions and darkest areas (and placement of the middle tones) will need special attention to transfer all the detail on the press. Highlights get flattened, and shadows get closed more easily because of the high speeds and extreme pressures involved.

    This means that images destined for print must exhibit more internal contrast in the quarter tones (between middle tones and highlights) and three-quarter tones (between middle tones and shadows as well as a slight adjustment to the middle tones to reproduce at their best. I’m sure I will hear some disagreement about this from some publishers, but as a former pressman, I know that images that do not get some special attention usually print somewhat flat.

    The image on the left might look good as a print, but it would reproduce poorly on a press. The shadow areas would get even darker and lose all detail. The image on the right will darken slightly in the lower tones producing an excellent result in print. White balance is also critical in publication printing. Compensating for the unavoidable effects of the press always pays off.

    There is a cardinal rule in printed publications that states that even areas of the whitest whites and darkest darks must contain dots. The only “paper white” should be specular (light reflecting from glass or chrome) and even pure black doesn’t print solid black; everything contains dots. Unlike inkjet printers, printing presses cannot hold (or print) dots smaller than 2-3% value (247). Dots smaller than this never make it onto the paper. This is why additional internal contrast is needed on both ends of the tonal range.

    Photographers certainly know their way around cameras and software (Lightroom or Photoshop), and they understand color and tonality as it relates to mechanical prints. They are also accustomed to references to RGB (red, green, and blue) colors and may even understand how inkjet printers work, but very few are familiar with the behavior and limitations of huge printing presses. The analogy of ballet dancers versus Sumo wrestlers is an accurate one.

    Photographers understand fine art prints and image editing software though few see their photos through the eyes of pressmen. But perhaps they should!

    There is a significant difference between preparing photos for inkjet printers and preparing images for publication presses. The publication RGB-vs-CMYK conversion thing differs significantly from inkjet conversion in color gamut, image saturation, and tonal reproduction.

    When an image is captured, it can potentially possess more than 4000 tones per (RGB) color. That’s a whole bunch of possible colors. But the sobering factor is that all printing processes reduce those possible 4000 tones down to a mere 256 tones per RGB color before any ink hits the paper. Obviously, the post-processing tone and color shaping of camera images are super-critical! Simply put, how the photographer shapes all that data before it is ready for print determines how much detail and clarity will get printed on the pages of the magazine.

    Once again, the top picture would print great on an inkjet printer but would lose very critical detail on a press. Compensation for the unavoidable effects of the press is always advised. In Part 2 of this series, I’ll show you exactly what adjustments were made to this photo. Additional sharpening also helps compensate for the slight blurriness of the halftone process.

    The old adage “start with the end in mind” comes clearly into focus here. No matter how much data is captured by the digital camera, the publication press is the ultimate arbiter of tones and colors, and deserves the loudest voice in the conversation. The color gamut of CMYK conversion is even more restricted than the basic sRGB gamut of Internet images, making this post-processing exercise perhaps the most precarious scenario of them all. If you ignore the special attention needed for magazine images, don’t expect the images to pop off the page. Ignore the press’s advice, and you’ll pay the price in both detail and color reproduction.

    In the follow-up article entitled “Preparing Images for Publication Part 2,” I’ll reveal the literal “trade secrets” for producing great publication images.

     

    Preparing Images for Publication - Part one

    The post How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


    Digital Photography School

  • A Beginners Guide to Exposure When Mixing Flash and Continuous Lights

    The post A Beginners Guide to Exposure When Mixing Flash and Continuous Lights appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    Have you ever struggled with high contrast situations? Perhaps you’ve encountered shadows so dark or big that they steal the attention from the subject? That’s because sometimes you need to add a second light to your images. However, if they are different types of light, it can be difficult. Keep reading for a beginners guide on how to expose when you’re mixing flash and continuous lights.

    Taking a photograph means to capture and register the light, so understanding how to do that is key to obtaining a good result. In this tutorial, I want to talk about continuous light and flash lighting, and how you can set your exposure to register both. First, I’ll explain what I mean by these terms.

    Types of lighting

    Continuous lighting

    Continuous light (also called constant light) is the light that is on for the entire duration of the photo. This can be natural light when you’re outside, but can also be window light when you are inside. It can also be artificial light such as a table lamp or even professional photography lighting. Basically, it ranges from the sun to a candle – as long as it is continuous.

    Flash lighting

    Then there is flash lighting, which is only available for a quick moment when triggered. It can be from a professional strobe light, an off-camera flash, or the flash integrated into your camera. You can use these two different lights exclusively or together to complement your lighting. You can use them to create a special ambience or to achieve a particular effect. In this tutorial, I’ll explain how you can set your exposure when you use both continuous and flash lighting in the same shot.

    Mixing the lighting styles together

    I want to show you a situation in which I used continuous natural light as the main light and then filled in the shadows with an off-camera flash.

    This first shot I took with only sunlight coming in from a window on the left and behind the camera. The camera settings used were ISO 2OO, f/8, and 0.3 sec. It’s enough to light the bowl of fruit; however, the dark shadows it has cast on the wall are not appealing.

    Photography is about representing our tridimensional world in bidimensional ways. To do this, we make use of different things. One of them is shadows because they give depth. So we don’t want to eliminate all of the shadows – we want to control how many there are, how dark they look and their direction. If I slow the shutter speed to let in more light and try to ‘fill in’ the dark shadows to soften them, it overexposes the main subject.

    If I slow the shutter speed to let in more light and try to ‘fill in’ the dark shadows to soften them, it overexposes the main subject. It happens here at ISO 2OO, f/8, and 2 seconds.

    Therefore, it needs another source of light from the right. You can add this light source using either another continuous light or with a flash. I did this image with ISO 200, f/8, 0.3 seconds – the same settings I used for the correct exposure using only the continuous light. This solved the problem of one set of shadows but ended up creating new ones on the opposite side, so I need to fix the exposure again.

    Since the flash is just a shot of light that lasts for a fraction of a second, it doesn’t make a difference how long your shutter speed is open like it does when shooting with continuous light. You can set your shutter speed as slow as you want or as fast as the synchronization limit allows you (in my case is 1/250 sec). The flash lighting exposure needs to be regulated by the aperture.

    I used ISO 200, 1 sec, f/11 for this image.

    In this image, I used ISO 200, 1 sec, f/16.

    If you set the shutter speed to the light coming in from the left, meaning the continuous sunlight coming from the window, and set the aperture according to the light coming from the flash on the right side, you can control the complete illumination of the scene.

    Conclusion

    You can decide which shadows are good to keep and which ones to fill and by how much. In summary, have an image with depth and enough information both in the highlights and the shadows to either keep as shot or post-produce to your liking.

    Exposure ISO 200, 1/250, f/8

    *Extra tip

    As you may have noticed on the examples, every light has a different color temperature, that’s why some photos have warmer or colder tones. This is a broad topic that I can’t manage to cover in this one article, but I did want to mention it. When you’re mixing different types of lighting you may need to deal with this. Sometimes the auto-white balance of the camera does a good enough job. However, if it doesn’t, I advise you to do some more research about it.

    The post A Beginners Guide to Exposure When Mixing Flash and Continuous Lights appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Minimalism

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Minimalism appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is MINIMALISM!

    Katie Treadway

    Your photos can include anything that is minimalist. It can be landscape, street, abstract, objects or anything really! They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Raychan

    Some Inst-piration from some Instagrammers:

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Hello!! (@esraatayel) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Glaycheong Matt (@glaycheong_visual_diary) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by ????? ???????? (@ceritanyapanjang_) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Alex Neaga (@alex_neaga) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by hüseyinopruklu (@huseyinopruklu) on

     

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting MINIMALISM

    The Minimalist Landscape Photographer: What do you really need?

    Tips for Minimalist Photography in an Urban Environment

    5 Guidelines of Minimalist Photography to Help Improve Your Work

    Minimalism: Using Negative Space In Your Photographs

    Minimalist Photography ~ 4 Tips To Keep It Simple With A Maximum Impact

    Minimalism in Photography

     

    Weekly Photography Challenge – MINIMALISM

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSminimalism to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Minimalism appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Pose Women Who Aren’t Models [video]

    The post How to Pose Women Who Aren’t Models appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video by Anita Sadowska, you’ll learn how to pose people who are not models so they look more relaxed and natural in photos with a little help from photographer-turned-model for the video, Irene Rudnyk.

    ?

    General tips

    • Always give the model encouragement.
    • Talk to them throughout the shoot to help them relax. If you like a pose they are making, tell them so.
    • Try to get your subject to laugh and smile to make them more comfortable in front of the camera. Tell jokes.

    Standing poses

    • Get your model to stand on tip toes and move one leg forward, and shift hip forward.
    • When someone is shorter, shoot from lower to the ground, shooting upwards so the model looks taller.
    • Get the model to separate their arms to open up the body.
    • Don’t squash arms up against the body.

    Sitting poses

    • Place one leg lower than the other. Bring one leg upward and turned inwards towards the body. Elongate the longer leg.
    • Keep the model using tip toes when seated too as it elongates the feet and legs.
    • Place arm outwards to lean on.
    • Sit more sideways to push the hip out a little more.
    • Also, place the chin up to elongate the body.
    • No crossed arms.
    • Lean backwards on the back arm, resting the front arm loosely on the front leg.

    Facial positions

    • Push out the chin and then pull it down to create more definition.
    • Move their face around on different angles, tilting works well.
    • Try chin up and chin down. If using chin down, it is important to have strong eye contact.

    Posture

    • Always ensure the model has good posture.
    • Move shoulders down, stand tall and suck in the tummy for a strong core.
    • Lean against something to feel more relaxed.

    Accessories

    • Accessorize. Using an accessory can give the model something to play with/hold.
    • If you don’t have accessories, you can get your model to play with their hair and have fun with it.

     

    You may also find the following articles helpful:

    • 67 Portrait Poses (printable)
    • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
    • Portraits: Striking The Pose
    • 10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits
    • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
    • 14 Amazing Portrait Recipes
    • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut

    The post How to Pose Women Who Aren’t Models appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Steps for Photographing the Blue Hour

    The post 5 Steps for Photographing the Blue Hour appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    Blue hour photography is an attractive subject to shoot. It’s great to be outdoors after dark, there are usually less people around, and it presents the opportunity to capture a familiar daytime scene in a new and different light.

    Taking photos during the blue hour is considered to be the optimum time to document a cityscape as the artificial lights awaken and the daylight disappears.

    Blue hour is one of the most popular times for photographers to take pictures. The blue hour refers to “the period of twilight in the morning or evening, during the civil and nautical stages, when the sun is at a significant depth below the horizon and residual, indirect sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade.”

    For the purpose of this article, I will focus on outlining the steps required for shooting during the blue hour:

    1. Consider the time of day

    Sheldonian Theatre, Oxford © Jeremy Flint

    The time of day is an important factor when photographing the blue hour.

    The blue hour is not just limited to the period after sunset. Similar light can be achieved in the morning (before sunrise) and evening (after sunset).

    During the blue hour in cities, buildings are lit, and streetlights come on, making it an ideal time for urban and city photography with a perfect blend of natural and artificial light. The sky takes on a deep blue hue with cold tones and warmer colors from the illuminated buildings. A gradient of colors from blue to orange tinges the sky in place of the sunrise and sunset.

    In the evening, the blue hour coincides with the end of the civil twilight, just after the golden hour. In the morning, it coincides with the initial part of the civil twilight, occurring just before the golden hour.

    Try taking pictures after this time to see how your images differ. You will generally find that when capturing cities after the blue hour, the natural light will have faded away and your images will appear darker in the sky. This can still be a good time to take interesting pictures.

    2. Consider your subject and viewpoint

    When preparing to take pictures during the blue hour it is important to take on board a few considerations. What are you going to photograph and how will you frame your image?

    © Jeremy Flint

    My first suggestion is to decide on your subject and consider what you want to include in your image. You may want to frame your subject with an attractive background or foreground to make the image look more visually pleasing.

    I chose to photograph this night scene of Tokyo with the Rainbow Bridge as my main subject with the neon-lit cityscape and towering skyscrapers beyond.

    3. Consider the exposure, aperture and shutter speed

    You will need to decide on the settings you want to use. If there is movement in the image, you may want to prioritize shooting in shutter speed priority. If not, then aperture mode can be used to achieve greater depth of field.

    University Church of Saint Mary the Virgin viewpoint © Jeremy Flint

    The correct exposure will automatically be set to let in the right amount of light when you capture your images. Both methods allow the use of longer exposures.

    As my subjects were static, I opted for aperture priority to achieve more depth.

    4. Try different shutter speeds

    As the light fades, you may find that you want to increase your shutter speed to maintain a well-exposed shot. I would start at around a second and increase the exposure accordingly when darkness falls.

    © Jeremy Flint

    You can also use shutter speeds to creative effect. For example, capturing moving traffic trails during the blue hour can give pleasing results. Try anything over five seconds of exposure time to allow for some movement.

    Long exposures are another great way to create amazing photographs. For example, they can be used to exaggerate cloud movement or traffic trails even further. Try anything over 30 seconds.

    5. Use a tripod or something for support

    Using a tripod or a stable surface such as a table or wall is of paramount importance when photographing the blue hour. They will help you to achieve sharper pictures by minimizing unwanted camera shake.

    Skytree, Tokyo © Jeremy Flint

    I achieved the photo attached by setting my camera up on a sturdy tripod to prevent any potential movement.

    Conclusion

    Blue hour is a magical time to take photographs in towns and cities. Follow the above steps and see if you can improve your photos captured during the blue hour.

    Share your pictures with us below and feel free to add your tips to capturing the blue hour.

     

    5 steps for photographing blue hour

    The post 5 Steps for Photographing the Blue Hour appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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