Category: Photography

  • How to Capture Candid Photos You’ll Treasure

    The post How to Capture Candid Photos You’ll Treasure appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

    Most people agree that the moment is the most important part of a photo.

    Even when you achieve perfect exposure or exquisite composition, you don’t feel it makes up for missing the moment.

    Oddly, if it’s a good moment people will enjoy your photo in spite of the technical mistakes like motion blur or underexposure.

    Candid photography

    I learned about capturing candid moments by watching my mom take photos. She saw moments before they happened and captured them with her point and shoot film camera. She took this photograph of my grandmothers helping each other take a picture.

    You’ve likely noticed how much interaction your friend’s photos get on social media. It can be the worst photo from a technical perspective (dark, blurry, mis-focused) and people will act like it’s the best photo they’ve ever seen. It’s stunning! As a photographer you groan because you see all the mistakes. But chances are they captured a good moment. And that good moment overshadowed everything else.

    As photographers (amateurs or professionals) we’re called to a higher standard. We’re not concerned solely with the moment, but with the technical aspects as well.

    Given how important the moment is, let’s focus on that. And let’s focus specifically on spontaneous or candid moments.

    Often, photojournalism and lifestyle photography rely heavily on candid moments. As do street, travel and wildlife photography.

    In order to capture good candid moments you’ll need to learn two important skills:

    1. The ability to see future events before they happen
    2. Know the right “camera settings” to capture those events

    It takes some practice, but learning to see the future is not as impossible as you think.

    wildlife candid moment

    I happened to notice this mama bird feeding her little ones. She kept up her rounds for long periods of time, so I found my camera and waited for her to return. While I was waiting I found good settings for my exposure. Then it was just a matter of watching and waiting for her to return. I got cramps in my legs and missed her more than once. But eventually I captured a number of images that I liked.

    How to see the future

    Initially, it may feel as if you have no control over moments. Everything is chaotic and you have no idea when a moment is going to happen. But with practice, you’ll feel like you actually have a lot of control over spontaneous moments.

    In order to capture good candid moments, you need to be able to see the future. Seeing the future means developing the ability to anticipate what is about to happen before it does.

    Some things are easy to anticipate because they are so predictable. The sun rises and sets every day. If you want a nice photo of the sunrise you know exactly when it’s going to happen.

    candid moments in the water

    Waves are predictable, they just keep rolling in.

    But how about anticipating less predictable moments? You don’t know exactly when a storm is going to arise or exactly what form it will take. If you want to photograph storms you’ll need to watch how they behave across the seasons. Where I live it’s very rare to have a thunderstorm, but you can feel it in the air when one is coming.

    Still other things, such as people, seem completely unpredictable. Take toddlers for example. Who knows what they’re going to do at any moment?

    But even something as seemingly random and chaotic as the behavior of toddlers is predictable. It just takes a bit longer to notice the pattern.

    Patterns are the key to seeing moments before they happen.

    Patterns are woven into our culture, our relationships and our personality.

    Pay attention to the things you love to photograph, watch for patterns, and take note. Your ability to anticipate moments will increase over time if you observe and practice regularly.

    anticipate moments

    I’ve noticed that every time the house goes quiet my toddler has found something interesting to do. Before I go looking for him, I pick up my camera and try not to interrupt what he is doing.

    Learn to anticipate moments by looking for patterns. Once you can do this, you’ll be able to see the future (which has benefits beyond photography). When you sense a moment approaching, the worst thing you can do is interrupt.

    What kind of candid moment is it?

    Being aware of the type of moment will help you spot them more easily.

    Some moments are packed with action, emotion, or a sense of mystery.

    Action moment

    Action

     

    Emotion moment

    Emotion

     

    Mysterious moment

    Mystery

    Nature has candid moments too

    Even nature (flowers, landscapes, water) has candid moments. After all, we don’t normally pose our nature photos. We come upon nature doing something interesting and we make a photograph.

    Nature’s moments are constantly changing. Think about a simple landscape. That landscape will look quite different depending on the time of day, from season to season, and in different weather.

    Candid moments in nature

    I was just killing time waiting for night to set in when I noticed how rapidly the sky was changing.

    Combining human moments with nature’s moments

    When photographing people, you can combine their moment with a good nature moment to create a more powerful candid moment.

    Candid moments at golden hour

    This photo combines kids playing out in the snow while little brother looks on with golden hour. A combination of people and nature moments.

    Combine these people moments:

    • Action
    • Emotion
    • Mystery

    With nature’s moments:

    • Season
    • Weather
    • Time of day

    “Fail-proof” camera settings

    What are the best camera settings for capturing good candid moments?

    If you don’t understand your camera very well then begin with Auto Mode. Being in Auto Mode means that you don’t need to think about camera settings at all. You can just focus on seeing the future and being ready for moments. The problem is that Auto Mode is going to let you down quite often by giving you photos that are over or underexposed or blurry.

    So you should begin to learn about ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Once you understand these three things, you’ll understand many of the technical problems in your photos.

    When you’re ready to move away from Auto Mode, I highly recommend using aperture priority along with exposure compensation. Choose the aperture for it’s creative effect (f/1.8 for a shallow depth of field – f/16 for a greater depth of field). Let the camera figure out the rest. Then just focus on capturing the moment. Use exposure compensation when photos keep coming out too dark or too bright.

    depth of field

    This candid photo at the dinner table was shot in Aperture Mode. The aperture was set to f/2.8, allowing the background to fall out of focus. An aperture of f/16 would have brought much of the background into focus.

     

    Depth of field

    At f/11 more of the foreground and background are in focus.

    Move on to manual mode when you’re ready for that challenge. But even when you’re comfortable in manual mode you may find yourself scrambling with settings too much while trying to capture candid moments.

    When you get good at anticipating moments, you can take a couple test shots and look at the exposure. You can adjust your settings and still be ready to capture the moment that you know is coming.

    Once you’re fully comfortable with how your camera works you can forget about it in the moment.

    Work with the light you’ve got

    You won’t likely have the option of manipulating the light too much when it comes to candid photography. You can use your pop-up or external flash, but you may find that this will interrupt the moment. I prefer to use whatever ambient light happens to be there and get creative with it.

    candid silhouette

    My first few frames were exposed so that you could see all the detail in this scene. But then I noticed the potential for an interesting silhouette.

     

    candid sidelight

    It was the light itself that drew me to this moment.

    Candid moments are about presence and exploration

    Candid moments are about presence. You need to be there and be part of the moment. Yes, you’re standing back just far enough to capture a photo, but you’re just as much a part of the moments you capture as the people and places in your photos.

    You’re not expecting to walk into a scene, snap one amazing candid shot and move on. You’ve got to be around long enough to understand what’s going on and begin to see the future.

    It’s never the moment you think. You anticipate what’s going to happen and even when you capture a great moment, there are more to come. Some will surprise you completely as you begin to see new patterns you hadn’t noticed before. Patterns run pretty deep and you need to be able to see some simple ones before the deeper ones reveal themselves.

    Toddler candid moment

    Have you noticed how toddlers imitate everyone? After mama had finished her stretches, this little guy came along and did his.

    Conclusion

    Candid photography, whether it’s photojournalism, lifestyle, street, wildlife, or travel photography, is about exploring. So don’t just take one photo and walk away. Begin taking photos before the moment actually happens and continue taking photos after it has passed. Be vigilant and ready for all the other moments that are about to unfold.

    Ideally, you should walk away from an encounter having learned something. Perhaps you’ve seen a deeper pattern, better predicted a moment, or were rewarded with a great photograph for being there sooner and staying longer.

     

    The post How to Capture Candid Photos You’ll Treasure appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Cats

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Cats appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is CATS!

    Mikhail Vasilyev

    Go out and capture your little feline friends doing those awesome things they do – like climbing, sleeping, scratching your stuff and giving cheek. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Karina Vorozheeva

     

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting CATS

    Tips for Great Lighting for Pet Photography

    6 Tips for Working with Unruly Animals in Pet Photography

    Five Tips for Creative Pet Photography

    8 Tips for Better Pet Photography

     

    Weekly Photography Challenge – CATS

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPScats to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Cats appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Your Camera Strap: Are you Using it Wrong?

    The post Your Camera Strap: Are you Using it Wrong? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video by Phil Steele, he shows you the right way to use your camera strap, and you may just find a few little surprises!

    ?

    How to attach the strap to your camera

    If you are removing the strap from your camera, take a picture of the attachments, so you know exactly how to put it back together.

    Also, in case you didn’t know, that little rubber rectangle piece on your camera strap (if you have one), is actually an eyepiece cover for when you do long exposure photography. It prevents light leaks coming through the eyepiece!

    Fixing loose ends

    Do the end pieces of the strap flapping around annoy you? If so, there is a way to fix that.

    If your strap has little slide plastic collars on it, make sure it is towards the end of the strap, below the buckle. Then start by feeding the strap from the outside in through the attachment on the camera.

    Then feed the end back through the plastic collar and pull it all the way through.

    Now, feed the loose end through the buckle. However, instead of feeding it through the bottom first, feed it through the top first followed by the bottom. That way the leftover strap is hidden away rather than flapping around loose.

    Using your strap for better photos

    1. Use the strap as a stabilizer to reduce camera shake – Place your elbows into your body then move your camera away from your body, pulling the strap tight. This tension helps stabilize your camera and works well when shooting video too.
    2. Step on the strap when shooting from a low angle to steady the camera.
    3. If you don’t have a tripod, place your camera on a surface and use your strap under the lens to angle it upwards. If you want the camera facing downwards, place the strap under the body of the camera.

    Strap mistakes to avoid

    1. When placing your camera on a table, place the camera on top of the strap as though it is sitting in a little nest. That way, no one can accidentally pull your camera off the table by knocking the strap. Also, if someone spills water on the table, your camera is slightly elevated so that it won’t get wet.
    2. When using your camera on a tripod, the strap can cause motion blur on your images if there is any wind. Hold the strap while taking photos, or remove it altogether when on a tripod. Another solution is to get a strap that easily clips on and off.

    Comfortable straps

    Consider buying a more comfortable strap. Some have extra padding and stretch (Neoprene) and can be a little wider. They sit more comfortably around your neck and can ease the pressure when carrying a heavier rig.

    Phil’s favorite strap for event photography

    Phil uses a Sling Strap (black rapid) for event photography. It easily hangs over your shoulder and allows you to have free hands when you aren’t shooting. The camera easily slides up and down the strap when you need to use it.

    One caution when using the sling strap, however, is the way it mounts to your camera. It screws into the tripod hole on the bottom of your camera. That can be a point of failure because if your screw comes loose, your camera can fall to the ground.

    There are two things you can do to guard against that. First, when initially attaching it, wet the little rubber washer that goes between the mounting hardware and your camera. That seems to help. Secondly, periodically check the screw tightness, and tighten if need be.

    Have you ever had a mishap with your camera strap? Share with us in the comments below.

     

    You may also find the following helpful:

    • Review: Peak Design Anchor Links System for Camera Straps
    • Overview and Field Test of HoldFast Gear’s Money Maker Leather Camera Strap
    • Review of the Nitz Custom Handmade Camera Strap
    • Custom SLR Dual Camera Strap – Product Review

    The post Your Camera Strap: Are you Using it Wrong? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone

    The post How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sandra Roussy.

    Camera phones have certainly come a long way. A few years ago it was impossible to try to achieve good photos with the camera that came with your smartphone. The quality and resolution were so low that we didn’t even think about post-processing and posting our photos.

    The iPhone has had steady updates with new features added over the years including constant improvements to the camera quality. When the iPhone 8Plus came onto the market, photographers were finally ready to take photos that they could be proud of editing and posting. Many professional photographers are now using their smartphone cameras to snap photos during their travels or even on assignments.

    Of course, the iPhone is limited and can’t provide all the creative features that a DSLR with interchangeable lenses can. But some days, carrying bulky camera gear is impossible, so the iPhone provides a great alternative.

    Learn how to use your iPhone to its full potential, and you too will be taking great photos with your camera phone! We’ll take a look at the iPhone 8plus and newer models in this article because they have some great new photo features like Portrait Mode.

    Super helpful tip: Use the slide-left feature from your lock screen to get quick access to your camera.

    Learn the settings

    Set to highest quality

    Your iPhone camera can offer some high-quality photos and videos. If you intend to store hundreds of photos on your phone without downloading or transferring them into a cloud-based platform, then you may want to shoot in low resolution, so your phone doesn’t get full.

    When you do want to shoot something important and want to edit the photos afterward, it’s best to shoot in the highest quality possible.

    Set your focus point

    The iPhone has a feature that you can use to set your exact focus point, and it’s quite important to use it to achieve tack sharp images.

    • Compose your shot
    • Tap your screen where you want the focus to be.
    • Slide the exposure up or down (The little yellow sun icon).
    • Press and hold to lock the focus point and recompose your photo if you wish (AE/AF LOCK).
    • Take your photo.

    About HDR

    HDR means High Dynamic Range and what it does is help provide evenly exposed images. The camera takes 3 shots when you take a photo and stacks them to provide a perfectly exposed image with all components having details in both the highlights and shadows.

    Go to your camera setting and toggle off Auto HDR and Keep Normal Photo toggled on. While shooting you will see the HDR icon at the top. If there is a line through it, simply tap it to activate.

    Helpful Tip: Your iPhone gives you the option to preserve your last shoot settings. This is especially useful when you plan to do the same type of photography. If these are not toggled on, the iPhone goes back to its default setting every time.

    Use the grid lines

    Nothing says amateur like a crooked horizon line. One of our pet peeves as photographers is to see a beautiful landscape where the ocean seems to be sliding down the side of the photograph.

    Tilt your head to look at the photo? No.

    Better, apply grid lines on your iPhone so that you can align the horizon line to get a perfectly straight horizon.

    How-to: Go to settings and toggle the Grid option on.

    Composition tips and tricks

    Rule of thirds

    Rule of Thirds is the main composition rule of photography that allows the viewer’s eye to flow easily over a photo. This is a good guideline to follow but it is not always the best composition for every situation.

    Tip: Having the Grid Lines toggled on will help you achieve the rule of thirds better.

    Keep it simple

    Sometimes less is more. When you cram too much info into a photograph, the viewer doesn’t know where to look and may not capture your intent. Keep white space and focus on a single subject. This will bring attention to the subject and give your photo more creative meaning.

    Get down and raise it up

    Shooting from the same perspective and position will most probably create some pretty boring and repetitious photos. Try getting down on the ground and see how the perspective changes. This can sometimes add some drama to your subjects. Also, look up! Look at the contrasts with the sky, buildings, trees, and clouds.

    Move in close

    Sometimes a small detail can take a photograph from good to WOW!

    Observe light, colors, and shadows

    Learning to observe how light affects objects and changes throughout the day is key to improving your photos. Observe how shadows get created and how the light hits particular objects and capture those unique events.

    Look for contrasts of color or a single color pop in a monotone environment.

    Photo modes and special features

    The iPhone comes with photo modes for you to choose from. The best feature to have come out in the last few years is Portrait Mode.

    Portrait Mode

    As of the introduction of the iPhone 8 plus, Portrait Mode has been accessible and has provided some broader creative possibilities. The iPhone Xs and iPhone Xr have the option to adjust the depth of field while shooting in Portrait Mode. Portrait Mode makes great portraits, of course, but can also be used for so much more. Try setting to portrait mode when you want a bokeh effect or a blurry background in your photos.

     

    Square

    This mode is useful if you want to post on Instagram while keeping your composition intact.

     

    Pano

    Shoot some panoramic photos to show a greater angle of a landscape.

    Special features

    Burst Mode: Burst mode is great when you want to capture some action shots. Press and hold the shutter button, and the camera takes a series of photos.

    Live Photo: Live photo is a fun feature that records 3-second videos before and after you have pressed the shutter. When viewing your photo, press and hold the photo to see the effect in action. You can activate or deactivate this feature in your camera mode.

    Loop, Bounce, Long Exposure: Swipe up on your Live Photo to gain access to a few more features that let you loop the live photo effect, bounce it, or create a long exposure.

    Zoom or no zoom – Attachable lens options

    • The newer versions of the iPhone have two lenses that allow you to zoom into your subject without moving in closer. This is practical when photographing wildlife or even when doing portraits.
    • Click on the 1X at the bottom of the camera screen. The zoom will go to 2X. Click your photo. You can pinch your screen and zoom even further, but this can cause shake in your photo and probably create blur.

    Attachable lenses have hit the market and can offer some fun alternatives when shooting. They come in a variety of prices and quality. Macro lenses and fish-eye lenses seem to be the most popular.

    Try photo apps and filters

    Photo editing apps and software are very popular with amateurs and professional photographers alike. Some apps let you add filters to create moods, while others give you access to features that let you edit and fine-tune your iPhone photos.

    Some of these apps even let you get out of the automatic iPhone mode and into manual shooting mode. They let you adjust your shutter speed, ISO, and aperture as you wish.

    Here is a list of some of our favorite apps available for your iPhone.

    Pro Camera

    You can shoot in Manual, Semi-automatic, or Automatic modes with Pro Camera. It contains RAW capture, live histogram, and an anti-shake feature. Pro Camera is the app that allows you to achieve super sharp images with your iPhone.

    Snapseed

    Snapseed is a popular go-to app for every level photographer. It’s one of the most complete free apps offering a variety of functions to edit your photos.

    VSCO

    VSCO is one of those apps, that when downloaded, allows you to shoot from your camera phone with the option of controlling the ISO, white balance, shutter speed, and other customizable camera functions.

    Like a DSLR, you adjust your exposure components before you shoot to get your desired outcome. You can create long exposure photographs and fine-tune your focus points.

    There’s a useful active tilt meter to level your phone to achieve a perfectly straight horizon line.

    Have some fun with your iPhone

    Even if you own an expensive DSLR and shoot in Manual mode, you can still get some great shots with your iPhone. The latest generation iPhones have stepped up the game regarding the cameras, lenses, and shooting options.

    Keep in mind a few helpful tips to achieve beautiful compositions and don’t forget to add some useful photo-editing apps on your iPhone.

    Your iPhone photos will look more professional, and you’ll be proud to post and show them off.

    Feel free to share some with us in the comments section below.

     

    The post How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sandra Roussy.


    Digital Photography School

  • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color GREEN and its use in Photography

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color GREEN and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

    Spanish dramatist, poet and writer Pedro Calderón de la Barca once said “green is the prime color of the world, and that from which its loveliness arises”. From the perspective of a well-loved frog however, it’s not so easy being green. On the visible spectrum, green occupies the space between blue and yellow. In color theory, it is a secondary color, made by mixing blue and yellow together. Here, we’ll have a look at the evolution of green and its impact in art from antiquity to the present day.

    The psychology of green

    Green’s strongest psychological associations lie with the natural environment. The word green originates from the Middle English and Old English word grene, which has the same root as the words grass and grow. Many humans respond to nature, and thereby green itself, with a sense of calm and renewal. According to a recent study, exposure to green spaces in childhood can provide significant mental health benefits into adolescence and adulthood. Another study suggests that the “availability and quality of neighborhood green spaces are associated with greater well-being”.

    Green’s association with nature has led to the adoption of green as an emblem for environmental movements. Fresh greenery in spring and the steady growth of plant-life has fostered associations with green and rebirth and determination. In contrast, the green text on early computer systems have cultivated associations between green, modernity and the digital landscape. The movie The Matrix has furthered this association.

    When the United States government began issuing cash in 1861, bills were printed with a green-black ink. This has fostered associations between green and money. Due to it’s reflective nature, neon green is often used for safety equipment, clothing and signage. Because of it’s vibrational quality, neon green also features heavily in psychedelic art.

    A belief held by the ancient Greeks that the overproduction of bile (which is typically a dark green to yellowish brown fluid) was a symptom of jealousy has drawn associations between green, envy and illness. Poeticized by William Drennan as the “Emerald Isle,” Ireland is associated with the color green because of it’s lush green landscapes. In China, green is associated with the east, spring and generative energy. For many Native American peoples, green symbolizes endurance. Green is the sacred color of Islam, representing Muhammad. However, in South America, green can be a symbol of death.

    The evolution of the color green

    Malachite, green earth and verdigris

    While prehistoric artists used a pallet made up of reds, yellows, blacks, browns and whites, greens and blues were noticeably absent from early art. Decorative ceramics made by ancient Mesopotamians depict some of the earliest examples of green in visual arts. However, the method used to produce these greens is unknown.

    Mined in the west Sinai and eastern desert, ancient Egyptians adorned tombs and papyrus with finely ground blue-green malachite pigment. Referring to the afterlife as the Field of Malachite, the ancient Egyptians wore the crushed mineral around the eyes to ward away evil. Moderately lightfast but very sensitive to acids, and varying in tonal consistency, malachite’s use in art continued up until the 1800’s. The Egyptians also used green earth pigments or mixed yellow ochre with blue azurite to form green hues.

    Sourced near Verona in Italy and on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, the Romans used green earth extensively in decoration. According to the blog Eclectic Light Company, green earth pigments have also been found in paintings from North America and the Indian subcontinent. Although lacking in intensity, green earth has seen use right up to the present day. Perhaps its best known usage however, is in the under-painting of flesh tones during the middle ages.

    The Romans also used verdigris as a source of green pigment. Verdigris occurs naturally when copper, brass or bronze is exposed to air or seawater over time. Deliberately cultivated by soaking copper plates in fermenting wine and collecting the resulting residue, verdigris was the most vibrant green available until the 19th century.

    Scheele’s green

    Invented in 1775 by chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele, Scheele’s green was the first to contain arsenic in its composition. Although it faded rapidly, Scheele’s green was considered superior to previous paints due to its vibrancy. It was used in a range of applications from food dye to artist’s paints. Needless to say, Scheele’s green was highly toxic and carcinogenic. Both manufactures and consumers became ill or died from exposure to the deadly pigment.

    Cobalt green

    In 1780 Swedish chemist Sven Rinman, developed a process that resulted in a cobalt-green compound of cobalt and zinc. Arthur Herbert Church, a British chemist, published Rinmann’s process in his book, the Chemistry of Paints and Painting where he stated that cobalt green was created by “precipitating with an alkaline carbonate a mixture of the nitrates of cobalt and of zinc, and then strongly heating (after washing) the precipitate formed”.

    “When prepared properly,” Church continued, “cobalt green is a pigment of great beauty and power.” However, despite the opportunity to vary the ratio of zinc to cobalt oxides in production, the pigment was never a pure green, taking on a blueish hue instead. In addition, the high cost and poor tinting strength of cobalt green meant it saw limited use by artists.

    Paris green

    Paris green is also known as emerald green. Becoming commercially available in 1814, Paris green was used as a pigment as well as a rodenticide and insecticide. Offering greater permanence and saturation over Scheele’s green, Paris green proved popular with artists such as Monet, and Van Gogh. Ranging from a pale blue-green to a deep green, Paris green was relativity cheap to manufacture. It was also used as a household paint and in decorative wallpaper. Highly toxic, it was discontinued over the second half of the twentieth century.

    Viridian

    Electing to keep their methodology a secret, Viridian was first produced by chemists Pannetier and Binet in Paris around 1838. It took another 20 years before chemist Guignet patented a process to manufacture Viridian, making the pigment available to artists.

    Viridian takes its name from the Latin word viridis, meaning green. A dark shade of spring green, Viridian sits between green and teal on the color wheel. Viridian’s brilliance, excellent permanence and lack of toxicity meant that it soon eclipsed all other green pigments. Readily adopted by Edvard Munch, Monet and Van Gogh, the rich blue-green hues of viridian remain in use today.

    Green in visual arts

    Green’s presence in art history is a testament to its evocative associations with nature and life. Cultivated by the flooding of the River Nile, ancient Egyptians recognized the greenery of flourishing crops as a symbol of rebirth. Osiris, the ancient Egyptian god of the underworld and rebirth was depicted with a green complexion and the hieroglyph for the color green was represented by the stalk of the papyrus.

    During the middle ages and renaissance, clothing color signaled social rank and occupation. Green was worn by merchants, bankers and gentry. Both the Mona Lisa and the bride in the Arnolfini portrait by Jan van Eyck are depicted in green, an indication of their status.

    Taking advantage of greens refined over the renaissance period, Baroque artists conveyed moments of movement and drama with rich green hues. Dreamy green landscapes populated by the well-to-do defined the rococo art movement, while the green hues in 19th century realism mirrored the bleak reality of middle and lower class society. In contrast, pre-raphaelite artists used green to depict resplendent clothing and foliage.

    Capturing the interplay between light and movement, green took on a new life under the strokes of the impressionist’s brush. Expressionist artists, in their distortions and exaggerations, valued emotion over reality, using green to convey new artistic possibilities. Cubists used green as a tool to alleviate some of the heaviness of their compositions and later, abstract artists like Mark Rothko and Helen Frankenthaler expressed the immersive nature of green through verdant tones on active canvasses.

    Green in contemporary art

    Contemporary examples of green used in art are as varied and unique as green itself.  In 1970 Bruce Nauman erected two walls, placed them 12 inches apart and suspended green lights above the gap. Encouraged to walk through the claustrophobic space, members of the public were bathed in green fluorescence as they shuffled along.

    In 1998 Olafur Eliasson used a sodium salt variation of fluorescein called uranine to color waterways in Germany, Norway, Iceland, Sweden, Japan and the USA a vibrant green. He called his endeavors the Green River Project.

    In 2016 Norwegian artist Per Kristian Nygard transformed an Oslo gallery into an organic work of art. Distributing soil and grass seed over a wooden framework covered with plastic sheets, Per Kristian Nygard cultivated Not Red But Green, a contemplative piece investigating the exchange between architecture and nature.

    Green in photography

    Green’s associations continue to be depicted in both film and digital photographic formats. Australian duo Prue Stent and Honey Long combine photography with performance, installation and sculpture, investigating the relationship between the human body and nature. Stent and Long’s series Bush Babies melds the green of the natural environment with the nakedness of the human body.

    An overreaching theme in Narelle Autio’s photography is the study of human interaction within green spaces. Namia Green’s portraits of black and brown subjects against lush greenery reflects the photographer’s rejection of the narrow representation of black peoples in art. Photographed by Steve McCurry, the famously green eyes of the Afghan Girl (Sharbat Gula) are both haunting and haunted, piercing a viewer’s gaze. Ren Hang (link NSFW), known for his sexually expressive imagery, often relied on green for contrast, context and life.

    Landscape and architectural photographer Andreas Gursky often applies green as a visual pause within his work. Fashion photographer Miles Aldridge uses green as a surreal brush with the surreal. Signalling time, place and atmosphere, macro photographers like Tomas Shahan feature green as an inevitable backdrop for their minuscule natural subjects. And Pep Ventosa’s dynamic works see green as a prevailing presence in her series In the Round, Trees.

    Green has applications on-camera too. In black and white photography, green filters are mainly used for photographing plants, separating green foliage from brightly colored flowers. In landscape photography, green filters lighten organic greens, giving an image a more natural appearance.

    Conclusion

    Despite its late arrival to the artist’s pallet, green’s versatility is reflected in its many connotations. Associated with renewal and rebirth, green has also been linked with the digital landscape, money, jealousy and sickness. From ancient art to contemporary visual culture, green has shaped our comprehension of the environment around us. Portraying immeasurable depth and abundance, green is the color of nature and life.

    Share with us your photos that use green in the comments below.

     

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    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color GREEN and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


    Digital Photography School

  • Gaining Confidence to Charge Properly for Your Photography

    The post Gaining Confidence to Charge Properly for Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

    Alexander Mils

    So many of us are awkward about money – especially asking for it. A few years ago I was just starting out as a “professional” photographer. I did a free session just for the experience. The family insisted on paying me something even though I kept declining. They gave me $ 20. I couldn’t help but think, “is that all I’m worth?” I was happy to do it for free, yet $ 20 felt like an insult.

    There were a lot of questions tangled up in that $ 20 session. Are my photos good enough to charge money? What is the right price to charge? How do I tell them my price when I feel so dirty about money? Why don’t they value me more?

    I knew that I had to work through these questions or just forget about charging money at all.

    Let me share with you how to:

    • Know what to sell (a service, prints, or digital)
    • Set your prices (to fund your hobby or go full time)
    • Get over the dirty feeling you have when talking about money
    Photo session pricing

    This was one of my first and cheapest photo sessions, but also one of my most memorable. It rained the whole time and we had to keep ducking back into our vehicles to stay dry.

    A riddle

    When I first started out and my prices were low, people would tell me that my prices were too high. And now that my prices are five times higher, people keep telling me my prices are too low. Why is that? I’ll tell you at the end.

    First, the truth about prices

    You will set your prices based on assumptions you have. Many of those assumptions are wrong, which leads to wrong pricing.

    I promise you that:

    • The market is not over-saturated with photographers.
    • Cheap photographers have not driven down prices for the rest of us.
    • People do value photography and will spend good money on it.
    Family photo session prices

    I charged this family four times more for their next session and they gladly paid because they loved their first set of photos so much. I even got a call from the dad saying how much he liked the photos. And dad’s never want to pay for photos!

    What do you really want?

    There is little use in discussing pricing if you don’t have an end goal in mind. You need to begin by asking yourself what you really want.

    Do you even want money? If so, do you want a little money to fund your photography hobby? Or, do you want enough money to count as income?

    Money is a tool to get other things. So the question is, what do you want?

    Don’t charge anything at all

    Don’t feel as though you must charge for your photography. You might get sucked into the idea of making money with your photography just because so many other photographers do.

    If you love photography for it’s own sake, you don’t necessarily need to make money doing it.

    Keep your life simple and chase photography for it’s own sake. Go ahead and share your photography as a gift with no concern about money.

    photography pricing

    Figure out what you’re selling

    If you do want to earn money with your photography, you need to decide what you’re selling and why.

    You could sell sessions, digital files or prints (or any combination of these).

    Don’t let anybody tell you what you must offer. Make your own decision.

    Here are some examples of what you could sell.

    • Photograph events and then sell digital files or prints.
    • Do photography sessions (newborn, family, etc) and then sell digital files or prints.
    • Take photographs of your own ideas and then sell fine art prints or digital stock photography.

    Create a price list for whatever you offer and then you’re ready when people ask how much you charge.

    How to set your prices

    I prefer to keep everything as simple as possible, so here is my model for how to set your prices.

    1. What do you want to make per month?
    2. How many sessions would you like to do per month? Or, how many prints or digital photos would you like to be selling per month?

    Suppose you would like to earn $ 1000 per month and you would like to do four sessions per month. You’ll have to charge $ 250 per session (but also consider your expenses).

    Perhaps you want to earn $ 500 per month by photographing one event and selling digital images. If you price your digital photos at $ 10 each, you’ll have to sell 50 of them.

    How about full-time income? Suppose you would like to earn $ 4000 per month. You could do 8 photo sessions at $ 500. Or, you could do a couple of weddings per month.

    Play with the numbers based on how much you would like to make and how much work you want to put out.

    Earning money on the side

    Hovering on the line between amateur and professional, I just loved the fact that I could take pictures and make a little money doing it.

    What should amateurs charge?

    Don’t assume that because you are an amateur you should charge less. You could be as fine a photographer as the pros – maybe better.

    Just keep in mind how much you would like to make and how much work you want to put out.

    Some amateurs like to photograph sporting events and then sell digital files or prints through an online gallery. Others like to do photo sessions for their friends. Some sell a few of their prints here and there. It’s often just a way to make a little extra money to spend on new lenses and camera bags.

    Consider how much money you would like to make and set your prices accordingly.

    How to get over the dirty feeling you have when talking about money

    There are many reasons you might feel awkward about money.

    If you haven’t set your prices in advance you’ll feel thrown off when somebody asks you. You’ll feel hesitant or doubt yourself. So set your prices and be ready to tell people what they are.

    Confidence plays a role in setting your prices.

    Are you ready to charge?

    A lot of people just need to know if they are ready to charge money for their photography.

    If you take good photos then you are ready. If you don’t take good photos then you’re not.

    Get feedback from other photographers about whether your photos are good. Ask them how you could improve. When you get to the point that you feel confident, or almost confident, then offer your services with a price tag.

    Photograph an event and sell digital photos. Or offer family photo sessions. Whatever it is, see if people are willing to pay. You’ll know you’re ready when your photos are good and people begin paying.

    At this point you may know you’re a good photographer and how much money you would like to make, but deep inside something tells you you’re not worth it.

    Are you worth it?

    I often see photographers charging low prices for their incredible photography because they don’t feel worthy of charging more. They have many reasons for their low prices, but they’re mostly just excuses. Underneath is a sense of inferiority – a sense that they themselves are no good. If this is you, then you need to get out of your own head and prove yourself wrong.

    There are countless photographers doing the work they want and charging what they want. Why not you?

    confident photography pricing

    Get out of your comfort zone and make trying new things a part of your lifestyle. You’ll gain confidence more quickly and overcome those voices that put you down.

    But will people really pay?

    Yes, people will pay. A lot.

    You’ll hear a lot of people saying that everybody is running to cheap photographers and it’s putting the higher priced photographers out of business. But it’s not true.

    Yes, a lot of people go to cheap photographers. It’s natural to seek out lower prices when we can. But that doesn’t mean that people never spend lots of money.

    Have you ever noticed that people have two polar reactions to the money they spend? People love to brag that they got a great deal. But they also love to brag about how expensive something was. People are funny creatures and you’ll learn a lot about us by paying attention to what we do with our money.

    photography pricing

    My family is even willing to pay more for apples, just for the experience of picking our own.

    Cheap commodity or something meaningful?

    Remember that curious thing I told you in the beginning? When I first started out and my prices were low, people would tell me that my prices were too high. But now that my prices are five times higher, people keep telling me my prices are too low. Why is that?

    In the beginning, I priced my photography as a cheap commodity. Nobody wants to pay a high price for a commodity. We all want the price of things like food, insurance and fuel to go down, not up! I priced my photography to be the sort of thing that is cheap and is found anywhere.

    But later on, when my prices were higher, my photography began to appeal to people who thought differently about photography. They valued it as something truly meaningful to them – not as a cheap commodity like toothpaste. They valued it like a fine bottle of wine and were happy to pay more for it.

    Some people don’t value photography, and it’s just a commodity to them. However, others do value it and are proud to seek out a talented photographer and pay good money for their work.

    The subject of my photography, and the words I use to talk about my photos, speak of meaning rather than cheapness. My prices have come to reflect the true value of my photography.

    From a purely business perspective, my prices are probably still too low. Even some of the people who hire me say that I should charge more than I do (and they prove it by giving me generous gratuities).

    So why don’t I charge even more? Because, like many of you, I struggle with that voice inside that says, “are you crazy? Nobody will pay that price.” However, the people who hire you and I will keep proving that voice wrong.

     

    The post Gaining Confidence to Charge Properly for Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Ways to Plan a Photography Road Trip

    The post 6 Ways to Plan a Photography Road Trip appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    photography road trip 01

    Monument Valley, USA

    Going on a road trip can be an exciting prospect for any budding photographer. There is usually a great sense of anticipation and adventure associated with any road trips where you embark on a journey across familiar or unfamiliar lands.

    If you are planning a road trip to a particular travel destination, here are 5 ways to help you plan your getaway.

    1. Choose a destination

    photography road trip 02

    Arizona, USA

    One of the first and most fundamental things to do is to decide where you want to go. You can choose a destination based on a photographic interest you may have such as landscapes or select a location based on somewhere you would like to visit. For example, the Scottish highlands in England are a great place to take a road trip where nature is bountiful and beautiful.

    You may prefer a road trip that follows a famous route such as Route 66 in the USA.

    2. Do your research

    Planning your journey can be a challenging prospect if you have never been to the place you will be visiting. The fear of the unknown surrounding the location can hold you back and even put you off doing any groundwork.

    I suggest to just choose a route, research it and go. Researching an area will help alleviate any anxieties about going to a new area. Then it’s simply a case of putting your plan into practice.

    photography road trip 03

    Arizona, USA

    You need to decide if you will take your own vehicle or hire one depending on your budget and where you are planning to visit. Obviously, if you are going somewhere abroad that is too far away to take your own vehicle, consider which vehicle you will hire. A campervan may be a financially viable option if you would like wheels and accommodation in one.

    Alternatively, you may opt to rent a car and stay in local accommodation at your chosen destinations The advantage of a campervan or car and tent is that you can stay overnight near to a place you want to photograph such as beside a river, lake or landscape.

    3. Plan time for photography

    Plan your trip for the time you have. Figure out which location you want to visit and factor in some time for picture taking. You will also want to allow some time for sightseeing and relaxation. Don’t forget to stop the car during your road adventure to soak in the views.

    photography road trip 04

    Namibia

    4. Consider your travel partners

    A key factor to consider when planning time for photography during your road trip is who you do your grand tour with. Consider who your travel partners will be whether you decide to go with a friend, your spouse or family. Make a clear plan to factor in some photography. Tell the people you are with that you intend to do some photography at a specific time and ask if they want to come with you on your photographic pursuits.

    If they decide to join you, advise them to take to take a good book or puzzle to entertain them. These plans will help keep everyone happy and prevent you from falling out with your travel companions.

    On the contrary, if your tour is a solo road trip, you will have all the time you need. It will just be a case of choosing where and when to go and which travel destinations to photograph.

    5. Plan the gear to take with you

    photography road trip 05

    Bryce Canyon, USA

    Have you ever been on a photography excursion only to find out when you get there that a vital piece of kit is missing? This could be anything from a piece of equipment to a lens cleaning cloth.

    As simple as it may seem, I recommend making a list of things to take before you pack to ensure nothing is forgotten. Your packing list may include a camera, lenses, cleaning cloths, spare batteries and memory cards, tripod, waterproof coat, hat and gloves, walking shoes, map and a guidebook.

    6. Consider electricity

    photography road trip 06

    Desert road, namibia

    Charging your batteries is an essential part of your trip so make sure that wherever you are going has sufficient supplies to charge your batteries. Electricity points are available at most types of accommodation including hotels, B&B’s, hostels and even campsites.

    If you’re traveling in a campervan or vehicle specifically set up for road trips, it may already be well equipped with electricity points for charging devices. A solar powered or fully-charged battery charging device will provide additional battery charge capabilities.

    Conclusion

    When embarking on a road trip, make sure to plan your trip well and be prepared for any potential photographic challenges such as lack of electricity when away from connectivity spots for a certain duration of time.

    Choose and research your location. Plan time for photography and make a checklist of the gear you intend to take with you. That way, you ensure nothing is forgotten when packing for your adventure.

    The post 6 Ways to Plan a Photography Road Trip appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


    Digital Photography School

  • Godox AD200: An Amazing Flash— If You Tweak it a Little

    The Godox AD200 has been much written about (and fawned over) for good reason: it's a legit 200ws flash in a near-speedlight form factor that has a lot going for it.

    At $ 299, as packaged, it's a near-miss. But at $ 366 (including two specific accessories) it's a home run.Read more »


    Strobist

  • Review: Pixapro 105cm 16-Sided Easy-Open Rice-Bowl Softbox

    The post Review: Pixapro 105cm 16-Sided Easy-Open Rice-Bowl Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

    Studio photographers, and other users of off-camera flash, are living through a bit of a renaissance. New, innovative and (maybe most importantly) affordable lights and modifiers are popping up all the time – and a lot of them are fantastic. One of the companies that is at the forefront of this movement is Godox.

    The Rice Bowl is a large softbox with an unusual shape.

    It seems that every time you turn around, there’s something new being released. Enter the Pixapro 105cm (41.34″) 16-Sided Easy-Open Rice-Bowl Softbox (Say that five times fast). Pixapro is Godox rebranded for the UK market. As soon as I saw this thing, I was entranced. Not only is it massive, but its shape means that it’s almost perfectly round (for all intents and purposes) and, as such, will shape light quite differently to your bog standard rectangular softboxes and octaboxes. I bought it and as this review will show you, it was not a mistake.

    What is it?

    To simplify it, the Rice Bowl is a large umbrella softbox. It’s called an umbrella softbox because it opens like an umbrella, but functions as a softbox thanks to two layers of diffusion material that cover the front. The reason this is a big deal, is that it takes away the massive pain that is putting together and pulling apart standard softboxes. I have more than a few that I’ve put together and then vowed that they would stay that way until the end of time. With the Rice Bowl, all you have to do is pull on the metal rod and open it up like an umbrella and screw the reflector plate into place. It takes seconds.

    While the shape of an umbrella, the two layers of diffusion make the Rice Bowl an effective and portable softbox.

    As mentioned, the shape of the Rice Bowl also sets it apart from it’s cousins. Because it’s 16 sided (That’s called a hexadecagon by the way. If you want to call it a hexadecabox, I won’t judge you if you don’t judge me), it almost appears completely round. This means that the way it shapes the light and wraps it around your subject is quite different to other softboxes, which can provide you with another tool in your lighting kit.

    Pros

    The Rice-Bowl softbox does do a few things well.

    Size

    The Rice Bowl is massive which makes the quality of light it produces wonderful for portraiture.

    Here, the Rice Bowl is compared to 22″ beauty dish.

    At over 41″ (that’s just under four feet), the rice-bowl is a massive modifier that still packs away in a portable package. Sure, there’s always giant octaboxes and parabolic umbrellas for when you need really soft light, but they don’t pack away anywhere near this easy. For fans of large modifiers, this means two things:

    • Once your done with it, you can pack it away and store it neatly with ease.
    • It travels well and is quite light, so it shouldn’t weigh you down in normal circumstances. I probably wouldn’t hike several miles to a location with it, but short distances should be just fine.

    Shape

    The 16 sides of the Rice Bowl make it almost perfectly round, which will shape the light differently to rectangular and square softboxes.

    The Rice Bowl’s unique hexadecagon shape gives you a rounder source of light than your traditional softbox. The light it produces is gorgeous and soft and ideal for all kinds of portrait lighting. If you have a thing against square and rectangular catchlights, then this might be the modifier for you.

    Easy to setup

    Setting up the Rice Bowl is dead easy. Just pop it open, secure the reflector into place and attach the two layers of diffusion to the velcro.

    As mentioned, setting up the rice bowl is as easy as opening an umbrella. Beyond that, you have to screw on a bit at the end of the rod to keep it secure and attach the diffusion panels. It doesn’t take very long. Add to that that there’s no awkward loose rods to bend and manhandle into place and nothing to pop out with great force and hit you in the eye. The Rice Bowl is a real treat.

    Carry bag included

    Not only does the Rice Bowl come with a convenient carry bag, but it also fits back into it with ease.

    Since it’s well suited to location, it should be no surprise that the Rice Bowl comes in it’s own carry bag. An extra bonus here, is that unlike other modifiers that collapse, once it’s out of the bag, it’s easy enough to get back in and it still fits.

    Price

    At a price of $ 110, this thing is fairly cheap. Massive modifiers (especially ones this well made) usually come at a massive price. Just compare the Rice Bowl to any offering from Elinchrome and Broncolor if you’re in any doubt.

    Adaptability

    Because I am invested in the Bowens system (RIP), I opted for the S-mount. Pixapro offer mounts for just about any system that you could want.

    Pixapro sell the Rice Bowl with just about any mount you want, so no matter your preferred lighting system, you should have no problem using this modifier.

    Cons

    Perhaps nothing can be too perfect, and that is the case with the Rice Bowl. Fortunately, the list of cons is a short one.

    Depth

    Because of its shape, when it’s mounted on a normal light stand, you cannot get much of a downward angle with the Rice Bowl.

    In terms of the light it produces, the depth and shape of the Rice Bowl is fine. Where it lets it down is when it’s on a light stand. Because it’s so deep and large, when it’s on a normal light stand you can’t point it in a downward angle very easily. This is quite limiting when it comes to designing your lighting with it. Certain lighting patterns like butterfly lighting will become a challenge.

    To get around this, you’ll need to buy (or already own) a light stand with a boom arm. This isn’t that big of a deal, but if you want to get the very most out of the Rice Bowl, you may have to be prepared to make other purchases.

    To get the absolute most out of the Rice Bowl, you will want to have a boom arm to ensure that you can place it at any angle that you want.

    That one screwy bit

    The screw that secures the reflector into place is small and easy to lose.

    Remember I mentioned that you had to screw a bit of metal on to secure the Rice Bowl once it’s setup? That one piece is very small and very easy to lose. I’m keeping a very close eye on mine.

    Examples

    At the end of the day, I can talk about the Pixapro 105cm Rice Bowl Softbox all I want, but what really matters is the proof. Here’s a few examples of what the Rice Bowl can produce in the studio.

    That’s it

    At the end of the day, I love this thing. Not only does it produce gorgeous light that is flattering to a whole host of subjects, it is light, easy to set up and just a pleasure to use. I would definitely recommend the Rice Bowl to any photographer who wants to add something else to their lighting kit. If you think the 105cm version might be a bit big for you, Pixapro do make a smaller version that comes in at 65cm for $ 90.

     

    The post Review: Pixapro 105cm 16-Sided Easy-Open Rice-Bowl Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Place an Image Inside Text in Photoshop

    The post How to Place an Image Inside Text in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    In this article, I want to share with you one method of creating an image that appears inside text.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Making your photos stand out online, especially when using social networks is tough. Finding ways to enhance your pictures so they will capture people’s attention is a great way to grab more attention to them.

    Placing an image inside text can communicate more than the text or the photo will say on their own.

    Here are a few easy steps to show how you can make your images have more impact.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text Inle Lake fishermen, Myanmar

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Set up your Photoshop file

    Create a background layer of a solid color. Above it make a new text layer and then add the photo you want to include inside the text.

    The size and font you choose are up to you, and they can be changed during the process if you decide they are not working as well as you’d hoped. You can also use a vector layer to place your image inside.

    For this method, you will use a Clipping Mask. This allows you to use the content of a layer to control the visibility of the layers which are above it. This is how the shape of the text will control how much of the photo is seen in the final outcome.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text Clipping Mask

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Creating the Clipping Mask

    Select your photo. It must be above the text layer. Go to the top menu and select Layer ->Create Clipping Mask, (or press Alt + Ctrl/Cmd + G.)

    You will now see your photo within the text. Everything outside the text area will be the solid background layer. You have effectively masked out most of your image.

    If this is too much, as it is in my example, the effect is not going to attract many eyeballs. The text is easy enough to read and the effect is interesting, there’s not enough of the image remaining.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Reveal more of your photo

    If you want more of your photo to be seen, rather than only what’s within the text area, you can do so.

    Duplicate the layer by pressing Ctrl/Cmd + J. Now make a selection of the parts of your photo you want to be seen outside the text area. There are many methods for doing this. Here I have used the Quick Selection Tool.

    Once you have made your selection, you can click on the Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers Panel. This will reveal only the selected area of this layer.

    You can then refine your mask if necessary by using the Brush Tool. Make sure the mask is selected in the Layers Panel. Brush with black to reveal more and white to conceal areas you don’t want to see.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text Refine the Image Mask

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    There are no rules as to how much to show. It’s purely up to what you think is best. Keep in mind that the text will be most legible with less of the image showing outside of it.

    You should now have a compelling image with a message.

    Experiment to add diversity

    Every image and text combination will work differently. If you’re not satisfied with the outcome, change some aspect of it.

    Using a different font is easy enough. With the text layer selected, choose a different font.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text Change Font

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    If you can’t find one that fits your image exactly as you want it to, manipulate it. With the text selected, bring up the Character dialogue box. Here you can stretch your text wider or higher, or make it more compact. See if you can make it fit your image in a more pleasing way.

    You may need to refine your clipping mask further if you make changes to your font.

    Adding a shape on a new layer under your text layer will create a new look. Then, by duplicate your original photo layer. Drag it below the shape in the Layer Panel. This creates a background of your original photo.

    Now you have a shape containing your text with your image inside and a shape with the image outside it.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text New Background

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    I have moved the location of the text and shape as I didn’t think it looked so good over the main area of interest in my photo. After moving it I dropped the opacity of the shape layer to reveal some of the photo underneath. I also added a stroke around the text (using the fx panel) to help it stand out more.

    How To Use Photoshop to Create an Image Inside Your Text Experiment with new layers

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Conclusion

    There are so many variations you can experiment with to place an image inside your text. These are just a few ideas to help get you started.

    Remember, if you are using text, keep it legible. If people have to struggle to read it, then it’s not working. Likewise, if the text is not enhancing your photo, try something different.

    There are no right and wrong ways of doing this. I hope you found this method helpful.

    Try it out with photos for your Pinterest, Instagram or Facebook feeds. Done well it will help your photos stand out from the crowd and get your message across.

    I’d love to see how you are making use of placing an image inside text. Please post your photos in the comments and let us know of any additional tips and techniques you like to use.

    The post How to Place an Image Inside Text in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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