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Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips

20 Nov

The post Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

The golden hour is one of the most magical times of the day for photography with wonderful light at sunrise and sunset. Yet, have you ever challenged yourself to photograph around these times? You can still capture amazing photos outside the golden hour and here are some ways you can achieve this:

Shoot during the Blue Hour

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

The blue hour is a fantastic window of opportunity where you can create some stunning images. It refers to the period of twilight when the sun is well below the horizon, and residual, indirect sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade. The blue hour generally lasts for 20-30 minutes and occurs just after sunset and just before sunrise.

It is important to use a tripod when capturing images in low light. Sharper images will also result from using a tripod by minimizing camera shake when using a slower shutter speed. In terms of the best subjects to photograph during the blue hour, start with cityscapes, roads with street lights, roads with traffic, bridges, fairs, wharves, and marinas.

Include electric lights for dramatic effect and use the extra light to add interest to epic scenes. Most of all, be creative and capture the artificial and natural light together. The warmer tones of illuminated buildings can blend beautifully with the cool blue hues of the sky.

Shoot at night

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

Don’t be in a hurry to put the camera away after the blue hour. There are still more opportunities to take great photos outside the golden hour and blue hour with night photography.

Although the natural light will have faded away, other photographic moments awaken.

Regarding city scenes, the sky will appear darker, and as a result, it can help make other city landmarks and street lights stand out.

Using moonlight can be a brilliant way to capture epic scenes as it paints the landscape or photographing it within a wider frame. Then there is the night sky, which can present wonderfully scenic photos. You can shoot stars, star trails, and even the northern lights.

Combine any of these with the landscape, and they are a recipe for epic images.

Shoot in the midday sun

Outside golden hour 3

Most people tend to avoid photography during the middle of the day, preferring to shoot during the golden hour. Well, challenge yourself to capture photos outside the Golden Hour by shooting at this time of day, and you can be greatly rewarded.

Although the light can indeed be harsh with the midday sun directly overhead, think outside the box. Subjects are well-illuminated, so look for colors that may stand out.

Blue skies can look great with cityscapes. Colorful buildings or flowers can look amazing with a backdrop of a clear blue sky or fluffy white clouds. Also, some cloud cover that reveals patterns of light over a nice landscape scene can look great.

Another option is to shoot the light reflecting indoors. You can head to your local market or capture the interior of a building. Both locations can be great for capturing images at midday.

Shoot when the sun is lower in the sky

Outside golden hour 4

During the winter, daylight is reduced, and we all like to stay in and enjoy the comforts of our home. However, this is a great time to get out and be creative with your camera to capture some awe-inspiring, majestic winter images. At this time, the sun arcs lower in the sky, which is perfect for getting some memorable photos. As this happens throughout the day, you can get some good images at any time.

Watch how the sun stays low and casts long and dramatic shadows and capture this in your images. Use shadows to support your main subject and to give a sense of scale.

Shoot in the morning light

Outside golden hour 5

One of the best times to take photos outside the golden hour is in the morning.

If you shoot after the hour following sunrise when the light is still good, you can get some great images. Whether you find yourself on a trip or in your local area, there is always a morning photography opportunity.

You can photograph landscapes or cityscapes by aiming your camera towards the sun whilst it is still rising. Alternatively, turn around and photograph the gorgeous light painting the land or city behind you.

If you are in a warmer climate, the temperature can be good at this time of day before it can get too hot to be carrying around all your camera equipment. If you like to photograph street scenes and people, head to some of the busier streets as more and more people will be around as the day warms up.

Look for any interesting activity and capture epic scenes of these subjects – they can really be worth the early morning start.

Conclusion

Remember, you can achieve awesome images when shooting at a variety of times outside the golden hour. Choose a time to take your camera out and go and do it!

Do you have a preferred time for taking amazing images besides the golden hour? Share the images you capture with us below.

 

The post Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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6 Tips for a Faster Lightroom Workflow So You Can Get Back to Taking Photos!

20 Nov

The post 6 Tips for a Faster Lightroom Workflow So You Can Get Back to Taking Photos! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

faster-lightroom-workflow-tips

Many photographers rely on Lightroom to organize, edit and share their photos. While this software has a vast array of tools to help people in several key areas, it has not always been known for speed. Recent updates and GPU acceleration have helped, but if you really want to have a faster Lightroom workflow, there are some simple things you can do to supercharge your post-processing. These aren’t hacks or plugins, but simple tweaks to Lightroom that can make your life a lot easier.

6 Tips for a Faster Lightroom Workflow So You Can Get Back to Taking Photos!

1. Apply a preset when importing images

The first thing you can do for a faster Lightroom workflow is to apply a preset when importing images.

Lightroom has a mind-boggling number of options and sliders to adjust when editing images. If you find yourself using the same types of edits on most of your pictures, you can use Presets to shave hours off your editing. Most people already know this, but you might not be aware that you can apply Presets when initially importing your files.

On the right side of the Import screen, there is an option for “Apply During Import.” Use this to select one of the many presets built into Lightroom (or select one of your own that you may have saved) and have it automatically applied to your pictures as you import them.

faster Lightroom workflow

In the screenshot above, you can also see an option called Nikon RAW import. That’s a custom preset I made that contains specific adjustments I like to apply to my Nikon RAW files, which gets me to a good starting point when editing. That alone has helped me with a faster Lightroom workflow, but applying it to a batch of photos on import is even more of a speed boost.

Don’t worry about messing anything up if you apply presets on import. Like everything else in Lightroom, they are non-destructive, meaning you can always go back and change things later.

2. Sync settings across multiple images

If you have spent any time editing multiple similar images in Lightroom, particularly from an event or photo session with clients, you have no doubt found the Copy/Paste Settings to be useful. Right-click on any image in the Develop module and choose “Develop Settings->Copy Settings…” Then check the boxes next to any (or all!) the settings you want to copy.

Finally, go to another photo, right-click, and choose “Develop Settings->Paste Settings.” Or better yet, use Ctrl+C (cmd+C on mac) and Ctrl+V (cmd+V on mac) like you would on any word processor.

faster Lightroom workflow

I shot dozens of pictures of this wasp. The Sync Settings option let me instantly edit a single image and then apply those edits to all my other images in an instant.

This process works great, but what if you want to paste your settings on to five, ten, or a hundred images? Even the fast method of using Ctrl+V starts to feel like a chore.

Fortunately, there’s a better way.

faster Lightroom workflow

Image 21 is selected, and Images 17-20 are also highlighted. After clicking the Sync… button, all the edits from 21 will be applied to 17-20.

In the Develop module, select a single picture in the filmstrip at the bottom of the screen. Then hold down the [shift] key and select more images. Finally, click the “Sync…” button to synchronize any (or all) of your edits on the original image to the rest that are selected.

When I discovered this trick, I almost fell out of my chair! I didn’t just speed up my Lightroom editing. It supercharged my editing.

3. Straighten your pictures with the Auto button

I’m always a little leery of anything that says Auto when I’m editing pictures. I don’t need my computer to do what it thinks is best – I want my computer to do what I think is best! At best, I use some Auto options, like when setting white balance on RAW files, as a rough draft that I go and refine.

However, there is one Auto setting that I have learned to use over and over again. Learning to embrace Auto for straightening my photos has saved me a lot of time and really led to an overall faster Lightroom workflow.

Image: The Auto button in the Crop & Straighten panel can really help make things go faster when...

The Auto button in the Crop & Straighten panel can really help make things go faster when you need to straighten your photos.

The reason Auto works so well for straightening images is that it doesn’t try to make a guess which affects the artistic goals of the photographer. It simply looks for straight lines such as light poles, buildings, or horizons, and then adjusts images accordingly. It works far more than I initially thought. Plus, it can really speed things up when editing in Lightroom.

faster Lightroom workflow

My tripod was askew when I shot this, but Lightroom fixed it with a simple click of the Auto button.

4. Automatically organize with smart collections

Collections in Lightroom are an easy way to organize your images. You can create as many collections as you want, and one photo can exist in multiple collections. What you may not realize is that Lightroom lets you create Smart Collections, which are populated dynamically according to rules you specify.

To create a Smart Collection, choose the + button at the top-left of the Collections panel. Then select “Create Smart Collection…” and specify your parameters for the Smart Collection.

faster Lightroom workflow

As an example of how this can lead to a faster Lightroom workflow, I create Smart Collections to sort my photos by month for an entire year. I do this each January, and for the rest of the year my photos are automatically sorted month-by-month without me having to do anything.

Image: I create Smart Collections for my personal images at the beginning of each year. My images ar...

I create Smart Collections for my personal images at the beginning of each year. My images are then sorted automatically.

These Smart Collections also do not include any photos with the keyword “PhotoSession” which I apply to all images that I take for clients. Photos with that keyword go in another set of Smart Collections that I use to keep client images separate from personal photos.

Smart Collections can contain dozens of parameters including Rating, Pick Flag, Color Label, Keyword, even metadata such as camera model or focal length. They are an incredibly powerful but very simple way to make your day-to-day Lightroom editing significantly faster.

5. Multi-Batch Export

Lightroom has long offered customizable export presets. These allow you to export photos with certain parameters specified such as file type, image size, quality setting, and even specifying custom names.

faster Lightroom workflow

New in the November 2019 update to Lightroom Classic is the option to perform a single export operation that utilizes multiple Presets. This means you no longer have to do an export operation for full-size JPGs at 100% quality, another export for low-resolution proofs at 80% quality, and so on.

Just check any boxes in the Export dialog box for the presets you want, and Lightroom will take care of the rest!

Image: The November 2019 update to Lightroom Classic lets you select multiple presets for a single e...

The November 2019 update to Lightroom Classic lets you select multiple presets for a single export operation.

This is a great way to save time when you are ready to export your images. It’s not the kind of workflow addition that will change your life, but it’s another simple but highly effective process you can utilize to shave precious minutes from your editing. And as someone who exports a lot of photos regularly, those minutes add up.

6. Cull on Lightroom Mobile

One of my favorite aspects of the Adobe Creative Cloud Photography plan is the synchronization between Lightroom Classic and Lightroom Mobile. While the mobile version of Lightroom isn’t as full-featured as its desktop-based big brother, it does one thing incredibly well that has made a huge difference for me when editing photos for clients.

Click the checkbox next to any Collection to sync those photos with Lightroom CC. This means you can access low-resolution previews of all those images on the web, your phone, or tablet. (Note that this does not work with Smart Collections, only regular Collections.)

6 Tips for a Faster Lightroom Workflow So You Can Get Back to Taking Photos!

I don’t find Lightroom Mobile particularly useful for detailed editing, but it absolutely runs circles around the desktop version when it comes to culling operations. If you have an iPad, this could honestly change your entire approach to culling your images. It also works pretty well on other mobile devices too.

Load a picture in any collection that you have synced to Lightroom CC and then click the Star icon in the lower-right corner. This switches to a mode where you can quickly assign star ratings or flags to any picture. Tap one of the Flag or Star icons at the bottom of the screen to change the status of the image. A quick swipe of your finger will load the next image.

faster Lightroom workflow

Tap the star icon in the lower-right corner of Lightroom Mobile to quickly assign Flags and Star Ratings with a swipe of your finger.

This is all well and good, but there’s one trick here that will send your culling into overdrive.

Slide a finger up or down on the right side of the photo to change the Flag status. Slide a finger up or down on the left side to assign a Star rating. Then swipe to the next image and repeat.

All your edits on Lightroom Mobile, including Star ratings and Flag statuses, are instantly synced back to Lightroom Classic on your computer.

I’m not kidding about the speed of this operation, either.

I used to dread the culling process, but now it takes a fraction of the time it used to. A few weeks ago, I returned from a photo session with over 1,100 images. In about an hour, I was able to cull them to a fraction of that amount, thanks to Lightroom Mobile.

Image: There were hundreds of images from this session that I had to sort through. Lightroom Desktop...

There were hundreds of images from this session that I had to sort through. Lightroom Desktop makes this a burden, but Lightroom Mobile makes it a breeze.

All six of these tips have saved me a huge amount of time over the years. I hope they are useful to you as well.

If you have any other tricks or suggestions for a faster Lightroom workflow, leave them in the comments below!

The post 6 Tips for a Faster Lightroom Workflow So You Can Get Back to Taking Photos! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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Why Your Extension Tube Won’t Focus (With Fixes)

20 Nov

You want to take a lovely photo of the delicate swirls of a seashell. The only problem is…you can’t figure out why your extension tube won’t focus.  Macro photography takes you into the beautiful and enticing world of the minuscule. A dewdrop hanging from the end of a calla lily, an insect drinking nectar from a flower, the brilliant sparkle Continue Reading

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Some Fresh Ideas For Students

19 Nov

College life can be very hectic and challenging. Once you get into a higher education institution, you get sucked into the whirlpool of lectures, assignments, workshops, conferences, and new acquaintances. At time, you may feel overwhelmed by this new breakneck pace of life and reluctant to go on your education quest. According to PapersOwl, a writing company that handles hundreds Continue Reading

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News: Demand for DSLRs is Still Strong, According to Canon

19 Nov

The post News: Demand for DSLRs is Still Strong, According to Canon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

 

News: Demand for DSLRs is Still Strong, According to CanonIf you were hoping for a flagship, pro-sports mirrorless camera from Canon, you may be waiting for longer than expected.

Earlier this month, DPReview sat down for an interview with two key Canon representatives and came away with some key information regarding Canon’s transition from DSLR to mirrorless.

The number one takeaway:

The demand for DSLRs is still strong. They are performing well, so Canon is continuing to work hard on its DSLR lineup. And a professional-grade mirrorless camera may not be ready anytime soon.

In other words, Canon won’t be making a full-throttle transition to mirrorless at present.

Of course, a rapid transition to Canon’s mirrorless systems was never a guarantee. But reports of the declining DSLR market, combined with Canon’s teasing of a professional-grade mirrorless camera, had led many to believe that a significant shift to mirrorless was on the way. Instead, it seems like Canon may continue to strike a balance between their DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.

What triggered this hesitation regarding mirrorless systems?

As explained by the Canon representatives:

“[A]s of now, we…see a lot of demand from photographers asking for DSLRs, specifically [because of] the benefits of an OVF.”

The reps go on to explain that “there are huge benefits to mirrorless, and we implemented, or combined as much of that [technology] as we could into the [EOS-1D X Mark III].”

For Canon fans still waiting for their dream mirrorless camera, this may not be an adequate consolation. But even as Canon staves off a true move to mirrorless, you can expect plenty of mirrorless features to be integrated into new Canon DSLRs.

It’s certainly interesting to hear that professional Canon photographers have been asking for an optical viewfinder over an EVF. One thing to keep in mind is that Canon is mostly listening to sports and action photographers, who prioritize viewfinder tracking over other features (such as WYSIWYG depth of field). Yet the Canon representatives note that there’s a generational split here, explaining:

At this point in time the biggest difference [between DSLRs and mirrorless cameras] is the finder. The fact that you can see everything in real time, without any layers in the way. That’s really big for a lot professional sports photographers. On the other hand, we do see a lot of the younger generation of professionals favoring EVFs, because what you see is what you get.

What do you think about this generational split in terms of OVFs and EVFs? If you’re a sports photographer, which do you prefer?

And how do you feel about Canon’s choice to maintain a focus on DSLRs (for now)?

Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post News: Demand for DSLRs is Still Strong, According to Canon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

19 Nov

The post Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

Photography can be mischaracterized as a “safe” medium. More often than not, photographs are geared towards improving the way we view the world and ourselves. Generally speaking, photography appeals to the lighter side of our senses. Whether it’s the calm aesthetics of a serene landscape or a hauntingly sublime portrait of an elegant model, when we think of photography, we immediately think about all the ways it can make the world seem more beautiful and more safe.

Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

But the world isn’t always beautiful. The world isn’t always the safe and secure menagerie of perfection we often see displayed in the photographs on social media and other corners of the internet. For all its effectual nature, photography, which displays only the conventionally pristine faces of our world, is at best, a blissful half-truth and at worse, blatant hypocrisy. We are surrounded by uncomfortable realities that are easier ignored than embraced or even acknowledged.

This leads me to the work and life of a photographer who is surrounded by as much controversy as she is by her works enigmatic magnetism. In this edition of “Lessons from the Masters,” we take a close look at the photography of Sally Mann. We see why and how she has become such an oddly iconic herald of the merits of unconventional photographic content.

Mann’s photographs epitomize the harsh internal conflicts we all face in our work and our lives as we walk the fine line between tactful self-expression and creative freedom. We’re going to find out what lessons we can learn and apply (or avoid) to grow as photographers.

Who is Sally Mann?

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Photo: Michelle Hood [CC BY-SA 3.0]

In 1951, the girl who becomes Sally Mann was born in the small southern town of Lexington, Virginia where she still lives today.

Her path to photography was first facilitated through her physician father (also an artist) with whom Sally would have an admittedly complex relationship throughout her life. She holds a BA and an MA in creative writing from Hollins University in Virginia. It is remarkable to note that Sally Mann has never formally trained in the craft of photography.

Although she has produced work across all photographic mediums, she gravitates toward photographing things closest to her home in the southern United States. The large body of her photographs centers around the investigation of death, sensuality, history, childhood, and the visceral (often painful) realities of life.

Many of her most known photos are products of antiquated photographic techniques such as wet plate collodion. She captures these using an antique 8×10 view camera with equally-aged lenses. Incidentally, this type of photography plays an enormous role in one of the most important lessons we will learn from Mann.

Sally Mann has published numerous books of her photographs as well as produced multiple major exhibitions and is a Guggenheim fellow. She has been the subject of two documentary films with one nominated for an Academy Award and the other an Emmy.

In 2001, Mann was named “America’s Best Photographer” by Times magazine.

The following two images are from Sally Mann’s A Thousand Crossings exhibition.

 

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“Deep South, Untitled (Concrete Grave)”, (1998) Gelatin silver print . . . . . . #sallymann #athousandcrossings #gelatinsilverprint #analogphotography #blackandwhite #photography #print #darkroom #highmuseumofart #ngadc #peabodyessexmuseum

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“Untitled (Self-Portrait)”, (2006- 2012) Grid of nine ambrotypes. . . . . . . #sallymann #athousandcrossings #analog #photography #ambrotype #glass #plate #negative #ambrotypephotography #analogphotography #selfportrait #process

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Now, let’s look at some lessons we can learn from Sally Mann.

Photographic opportunities are everywhere

We are fortunate today as photographers in that we can make photographs at literally any time. Through the progression of photographic techniques, our cameras have become smaller, cheaper, and generally more qualitative than ever before.

And yet, we sometimes find ourselves at a loss for what to photograph.

Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

I’ll admit, I’m guilty of this mental photo block myself. Sometimes we can convince ourselves that we need to “go somewhere” to make photos. It’s easy to forget that it’s not necessarily the location or the subject matter that makes for a great photo. Instead, it’s how we inject our own creativity into the making of the photo that truly matters.

In the case of Sally Mann, the majority of her work takes place on and around her property, with concentrations on simple subject matter.

The lesson:

The next time you feel like there’s nothing to photograph, remember to look a little deeper at the things surrounding you at any given moment. Light transforms textures and can produce incredibly dynamic compositions from even the most common subjects.

As a measure of solidarity, I made three photos using my cell phone here in the room where I’m currently writing. They are incredibly basic objects: my hand, a spoon, and a book, with the entire process only consuming about ten minutes. I made all of these using available window light and then quickly processed them in Adobe Lightroom Mobile.

Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

Much like Ed Weston and his simplistic photos of common objects, Sally Mann teaches us that it can pay to look deeper at the things we encounter every day.

Embrace the flaws

Nothing is or ever will be perfect, especially our photographs. Coming to terms with the truth that perfection is unattainable is a constant difficulty that we all must face as photographers. Sally Mann takes this one step further by actively welcoming flaws and imperfections into her work.

Many of Mann’s most iconic works carry a measure of impurity, which somehow lends itself to completing the total impact of the photo.

lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

From one of my own photo projects. A sheet of 4×5 film shot in the Mojave desert and developed from the back of my car. Complete with dirt, scratches and water spots.

Sally Mann refers to this mercurial facet of her work as the “angel of uncertainty” in reference to the somewhat unpredictable nature of the photographic processes she employs. It’s this complete surrender to the happenstances of the work that gives Sally Mann’s photos their unique qualities.

The lesson:

Try to strike a balance between proficiency and cautioned spontaneity when you make your photographs. Keep in mind that a “perfect” photo doesn’t exist and try not to become so preoccupied with your technique that the creative nature of your work suffers.

Allow yourself to be yourself, and that will shine through in your photos. Welcome all the little intricacies and glitches, which come along with making photographs, and you will likely find more enjoyment from the images you make.

Recognize the power of photography

As much as Sally Mann’s work is revered by some it is reviled by others. Her expressions of death, decay and especially her highly controversial images of her children have made here somewhat of a polarized figure. It speaks to the incredible power held within photographs which can move people in a multitude of directions.

lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

Photo by Adam Welch

The lesson:

Photography is not just a two-dimensional art form. The power of photography can transcend the medium itself with many legendary photos serving as a model for social and environmental change.

To that end, we must always remember that our work can affect our viewers on levels we might not fully comprehend.

It’s true that we can impact the lives of those who see our photos in a positive way. Yet, it is also true that our photos can have the opposite effect and can potentially cause pain. In the case of Sally Mann, the public reception may include entirely different attitudes than was originally intended.

In closing…

No matter if you’re a professional or hobbyist, being a photographer today means constant reminders that our photographs could always be better. If we only had this or that piece of gear, or maybe if we travel to this place or that, our images will somehow finally reach that magical Nirvana we always hoped they could achieve.

And then we have Sally Mann – a photographer that has managed to become arguably one of the most influential photo makers of the last fifty years.

She seems to defy the conventions of today’s photographic climate by shooting close to and in her home using tools and techniques that are more than a century old.

Her work is famous – and at times, infamous.

In fact, many of her more notable works can’t even be shown within this article. Yet, the work of Sally Mann reminds us all that we are making photographs with similar intentions; to express ourselves using whatever means satisfy us most.

Perhaps the greatest lesson we can learn from Sally Mann is that we all share a common complexity best translated through photographs in the absence of words. That somehow we find perfection through imperfection, and that we are all mortal.

You may also like:

  • Lessons you can learn from master photographers – Minor White, Ansel Adams, and Syl Arena
  • More Lessons from the Photography Masters: David Burnett and Vivian Maier
  • Lessons from the Masters: Robert Capa and Jerry Uelsmann
  • Lessons from the Masters: Morley Baer
  • Lessons from the Masters: Imogen Cunningham

 

The post Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography

19 Nov

The post Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

creative-photography-exercises

Every photographer can feel stuck at some point. I find this often happens when you have learned all the technical basics, and it’s time for you to start finding your way. Is this you? Here are some creative photography exercises than can help you shake things up. Keep on reading to see how setting limitations can help you to achieve better photography.

Creative photography exercises

Have you ever been to a restaurant that has a huge menu but you can’t decide what to order? The same thing can happen with your photography. Having the ability to photograph anything can seem daunting. That’s why setting limits before you start shooting can help you focus.

Creative photography exercises

You can set a limit regarding the idea or project you want. In this photo, I decided to limit my idea to fruits as a topic. You can also limit the tools and techniques that you can use – for example, using long exposure times. Here are some creative photography exercises to get you started.

Technical Limitations

Use only one focal length

As you probably know, there are zoom lenses and prime lenses. A zoom lens means that you can change your angle of view in seconds, which gives you great versatility. A prime lens has a fixed focal length, and this will force you to move around and re-compose your images.

Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography

If you don’t have a prime lens, use your zoom but choose a focal length and stick with it for the entire exercise. Here I used an 18-55mm and put some tape as a reference on 40mm. This doesn’t mean that you can’t use both lenses, it’s just a way for you to practice without buying new gear.

Think in terms of film photography

Pretend you’re using a film camera and set yourself a limit of 12, 24 or 36 images that you can use. I suggest these numbers because film rolls were sold like that, but feel free to set a different limit without overdoing it. This will push you to put more thought into the final image before you press the shutter button.

Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography

If you want to make it more challenging, try only using the viewfinder and not reviewing your images after shooting. Not having the chance to delete images in order to stay within the maximum amount gives you that extra push.

Project Limitations

Ride the bus

This is a fun project because you can approach it in many different ways. For example, you can choose to photograph the street while riding the bus or the metro. This takes away much of your control over the scene in front of you. You also have to deal with motion and reflections. And most of all, you have to react quick before you’re gone.

Creative photography exercises

You can also choose to photograph the inside of the vehicle. This is very close quarters so it will help you to overcome shyness. It is also challenging to compose and focus on short distances. So you may want to explore a wide-angle lens if you want to capture the full scene. The light probably won’t be very bright so you may need to bump up your ISO. Combined with the fact that you’re moving, you may find it challenging, but give it a try!

Always shoot at the same time

Program an alarm on your phone to remind you to take a picture exactly at the same time every day. If you have a routinary life, it will challenge you to shoot the same thing or place differently. If you have a flexible schedule, and the time, you will find yourself in different places, where you’ll have to deal with a variety of challenges each time.

Creative photography exercises

Either way, it will kick start your creativity. This image, for example, is only the heater from my studio. Try looking for different angles, play with lighting, etc.

Conclusion

These are just some ideas for creative photography exercises. Feel free to create your own according to your interest, gear and even the place you live. You just need to follow the same rule of establishing some guidelines as limitations to strengthen your abilities and creativity. I’ll leave you here some other articles that can give you more ideas:

  • Expand Your Creativity by Taking Self-Portraits.
  • An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake.
  • How to Boost Your Creativity by Including Props in Your Photography.
  • How to Reboot Your Creativity with 15-Minute Exercises.

Feel free to share any other creative photography exercises in the comments. And, as always, we love to see your images, so try some of these techniques, and share your images below.

The post Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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News: Could This Sea-Thru Algorithm Be the Future of Underwater Photography?

18 Nov

The post News: Could This Sea-Thru Algorithm Be the Future of Underwater Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Image: Photo by James Thornton via Unsplash.

Photo by James Thornton via Unsplash.

Underwater photographers may soon have a way of “removing water” from their photos, based on research done by Derya Akkaynak and Tali Treibitz at the University of Haifa (read report here).

As explained by Akkaynak and Treibitz, “An underwater photo is the equivalent of one taken in air, but covered in thick, colored fog.” And while the precise effects of water on images is somewhat technical, it doesn’t take much to recognize that water degrades images, causing a loss of both clarity and accurate color.

Enter Akkaynak’s Sea-thru algorithm, which is designed to remove color casts and other optical problems created by water. In other words, it can be applied to an underwater photo, one that’s blue (with inaccurate colors), and turn it into something that looks like it was taken on land.

For examples, check out the images in the Scientific American video:

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How it works

But how was the algorithm actually developed, and how does it work?

Basically, Akkaynak took a series of underwater photos, making sure to place her color chart into the scene for an accurate reference. She ultimately compiled over a thousand images in several environments. From the reference images, Akkaynak and Treibitz developed a model that takes into account the unique ways that light interacts with water in order to correct underwater images for color and light.

Now, Akkaynak and Treibitz had academic purposes in mind when they conducted this research. The algorithm, as presented in the original research paper, is meant to “help boost underwater research at a time when our oceans are increasing stress from pollution, overfishing, and climate change,” by giving researchers better access to visual data from underwater cameras.

But it’s easy to see how the Sea-thru algorithm could be relevant to underwater photographers everywhere. If Sea-thru can make photos become more accurate and (often) more vivid and colorful, might underwater photographers like to use it on their own images?

On the other hand, there’s the question of whether the best underwater photos convey an authentic sense of the (underwater) environment. Without the blue tones of water and the haze that water provides, photos may lose the sense of wonder that comes from doing work under the sea.

So let me ask you: Do you prefer underwater images where the water is much less apparent? Or do you like more authentic underwater photos, color cast and all? Would you be interested in the Sea-thru software?

Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post News: Could This Sea-Thru Algorithm Be the Future of Underwater Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

18 Nov

The post Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

reflections-in-photoshop

Attractive reflections can be challenging to capture naturally in your photographs. Sometimes it’s easier to create reflections in Photoshop. You will have more control over how the photo looks and you can avoid the difficulties that photographing reflections can bring.

Often you can’t find just the right place to stand to catch the best reflection. Sometimes the light is wrong and a natural reflection will look too dark. Choosing to make reflections in Photoshop gives you much more flexibility to get the look you want.

It’s really not that difficult to do. In this article, I’ll walk you through a series of steps you can use to make a mirror image in Photoshop.

Reflections in Photoshop

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Step 1: Selecting your photo

When making reflections in Photoshop, it’s important to start out by choosing a photo that’s suitable. Not every photo will look good or natural when you make a mirror image of it.

When you’re looking for a photo to use with this technique, think about how it will look. You ideally want to use a photo where the main subject has a distinct line along where the reflection will appear.

Open your photo in Photoshop. You may need to crop the bottom of the photo to create a clean line where the reflection can be placed.

Step 2: Adjust the canvas size

You need to adjust the canvas size to make room for the reflection you will create.

Go to the top menu and select Image->Canvas Size. In the pop-up that appears in the box next to the Height option, click the drop-down and choose Percent. Make the Height percentage 200.

Click the top center of the Anchor options grid. This will force the new canvas space you are creating to appear underneath your photo.

Click OK.

Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

Step 3: Duplicate the layer

In the Layers panel, unlock the base layer. To do this, click on the padlock icon. Now you can duplicate this layer by going to the top menu and selecting Layer->New->Layer Via Copy.

Convert both the layers to Smart Objects by right-clicking on each of them and selecting Convert To Smart Object. Now rename both layers to make it easier to keep track of which one is which.

Reflections in Photoshop

Step 4: Position the new layer

Drag the new layer to the space you created under your main image.

Now you need to flip the lower layer. This will be your reflection. From the top menu select Edit->Transform->Flip Vertical and press Enter.

Reflections in Photoshop

Step 5: Add blur to the reflection layer

With your reflection layer selected, from the top menu select Filter->Blur->Motion Blur. Set the Angle to 90-degrees and use the Distance slider to add a suitable amount of blur. How much you add is up to you and will vary depending on the resolution of the photo you are working with. In my example, I have set it to 30.

You may need to reposition your reflection layer by nudging it up slightly if a gap has appeared between your two layers.

Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

Step 6: Make a new file

Duplicate your file by going to the top menu and selecting Image->Duplicate. Crop the image so you are left only with the reflection.

Delete one layer so you are left with a blank canvas. Resize the canvas to 30%, otherwise, it will be too big to manage easily. Select the paint bucket and fill the image with black.

This file you have created will be added to the reflection layer to make it look more realistic like water.

Reflections in Photoshop

Step 7: Add blur and noise for texture

From the top menu select Filter->Noise->Add Noise. Make the amount 350% and check the boxes Uniform and Monochromatic. Click OK.

Now add some blur. Select Filter->Blur->Gaussian Blur from the top menu and set the Radius to 1.5 pixels and click OK.

Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

Step 8: Emboss your texture

In the Channels panel click on the Red channel.

Next, go to the top menu again and select Filter->Stylize->Emboss. Set the Angle to 90, the Height to 5, and the Amount to 500. Of course, you can experiment with any of these amounts. Click OK.

Now select the Green channel and Filter->Stylize->Emboss from the top menu. Set the Angle to 0, the Height to 5, and the Amount to 500. Click OK.

Turn on all the channels by clicking RGB. Go back to your Layers Panel, right-click the layer and Convert To Smart Object.

Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

Step 9: Stretch the perspective of the distortion

Select Edit->Free Transform from the top menu. Right-click inside the image and select Perspective. Make sure you are zoomed out a long way so your image is small in the center of your monitor.

Click on one of the bottom corners of the frame and drag it out horizontally. This will stretch and distort the lower part of the texture. Don’t worry if it looks weird, once you incorporate it into your reflection it will make it look more natural.

Zoom back to 100%. Save this image as a .PSD where you can find it easily and name it something recognizable.

Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

Step 10: Make an adjustment layer on your main image

Click on the reflection layer on your main image and duplicate it by pressing Ctrl (Cmd)+j on your keyboard. Name it “Reflection Copy.” With the new layer selected (which should be above the other reflection layer), from the top menu, choose Filter->Distort->Displace. Set the vertical and horizontal scales to about 10.

You may need to alter these if it does not look good, depending on your image size and resolution. Click OK.

From the window that opens, find and select the distortion image you just created and saved. This will use the texture image as a displacement layer. If the ripple effect is too large or too small, undo that step. Redo the step again, but this time choose a higher or lower number for the displacement scale.

Experiment with this until you are satisfied with the way it looks. It’s entirely up to your taste.

Reflections in Photoshop

Step 11: Adjust the reflection

With your Reflection Copy layer selected, click on the layer mask icon, which is at the bottom of the Layers Panel. Select the Brush tool with the color set to Black and a large brush size and Hardness of 0%.

From the options panel above your image, set the brush opacity to 20%. Select your layer mask, not the main reflection layer. Paint from side to side over the top half of your reflection layer, where it meets the top layer until it looks natural.

What you are doing is erasing 20% of the distortion each time you paint. You want to make the reflection look smoother in what appears to be the distance.

Reflections in Photoshop

Step 12: Merge the reflection layers

Select both the reflection layers in the Layers Panel. Right-click on one of them and select Merge Layers. Make sure your main image is not selected. You should now have one reflection layer and your main layer.

Step 13: Darken the reflection

With the reflection layer selected, go to your top menu and choose Image->Adjustments->Curves. Click in the middle of the curves adjustment line and drag it down to darken the reflection. Adjust it until it looks natural. A reflection in water is typically darker than the scene it’s reflecting.

Reflections in Photoshop

Conclusion

Follow through these steps a few times and experiment with the variables. There is no right or wrong way to do this. Your personal preference and the photos you choose will determine the outcome.

You will find reflections in Photoshop look better on some images than on others.

Try out this technique for making reflections in Photoshop, and share your images with us in the comments below!

The post Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn’t Get Any Better

17 Nov

The post Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn’t Get Any Better appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

photographing-on-overcast-days

Lighting is everything in photography, but some “poor” conditions may surprise you. Am I alone here? Does anybody else get excited about photographing on overcast days?

I use to think I was a contrast junkie, but I discovered that my passion is for detail, more of an internal contrast issue than one of overall contrast. Internal contrast (the clear distinction between tones inside the extremes of white and black) is what delivers the distinctions we call detail.

Hot highlights and deep shadows

Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

When you consider the dynamic range of most digital camera image sensors, typical bright sunny days can present two challenges right off the bat: hot highlights and deep shadows. When the highlights in the original image are very hot, and the shadows are very deep, extracting detail in the “near shadows” and “near highlights” turns into an editing issue.

This is why photographing on overcast days is the easiest lighting condition to deal with.

photographing-on-overcast-days

The holy grail of photographic exposure range is located well within those bookend extremes. On a typical Florida day, with the Sun blaring on a scene, the trick is to keep the quarter, middle, and three-quarter tones ideally balanced in order to capture critical detail.

With highlights too “hot,” the inevitable shadows cast by the tropical Sun tends to push critical three-quarter tones (shadow detail) into the mud. Shooting in RAW mode allows most images to recover all but the most severe edges of dark and light, though it can take a careful adjustment to do so.

Filtering effect of clouds

Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

When photographing on overcast days, the filtering effect of clouds mellows the Sun’s harsh light, revealing significant quarter tones (highlight detail).

The wonderful byproduct of this softer “diffused” light is softer shadows, which in turn deliver more shadow detail.

It is much easier to boost the highlights and deepen the shadows with a little help from overcast weather. On very sunny days, you might have to use a reflector or fill flash to open up the shadows, but on cloudy days, they’re already open! This natural diffuser renders rich colors and a full range of tones from the deepest shadows to the lightest highlights.

This lighting is the ideal time to press your 18% gray card into action.

Gray card

photographing-on-overcast-days

There is a reason why photographers like to balance their lighting around an 18% gray card. That 18% value just happens to be the same reflective value as average Caucasian skin color. And that value is the sweet spot of all photographic exposure.

Your camera’s image sensor is tuned to record skin tones in the very center of the contrast range. Image sensors do their best work when you point them at this reflective value. Once the camera knows this value, the lighter and darker tones fall quite naturally in line. And when the outdoor lighting falls neatly within the camera sensor’s “cruising range” (with headroom on either side of the scene’s histogram), that my friends, delivers top drawer results.

Photographing on overcast days may well become your favorite lighting.

Middle tone emphasis

Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

Don’t be afraid to put the scene’s tones well within the middle of the histogram.

There is no hard, fast rule that says that every image has to contain extreme highlights or near-black shadows. Real-life simply doesn’t appear that way to your eyes. Not even high-key photography mandates that the lightest tones must be extremely bright. Some of the most moving photos are nearly void of overall contrast.

Don’t fall into the trap of “optimizing” every photo’s range so that it produces bright highlights and deep shadows. Allow nature to dictate the visual mood. Realistically speaking, the only thing in nature that is truly “black” is the inside of a cave at midnight. The only thing pure “white” is a direct view of the Sun at noon.

Auto levels

photographing-on-overcast-days

It’s okay to have highlights that aren’t pegged up against the right side of the histogram. Please think twice before you hit the dreaded Auto button in the Levels dialog of Photoshop. That kind of cookie-cutter photography should be left to those who don’t know any better. Let the scene set the mood and simply convey what you experienced.

Occasionally, dynamic adjustments within software applications tempt us to automatically force nature into conditions that aren’t natural.

White balance

photographing-on-overcast-days

The next time you find yourself in the shadow-free lighting of a clouded sky, go and get your camera. Great color (and fabulous black and white) photography is there for the taking. However, do keep in mind that outdoor shots under cloud cover will appear slightly bluish because those clouds are absorbing the shorter wavelengths.

Set your camera’s white balance to Overcast or Cloudy. This setting will compensate for the bluishness of the scene. If you are using a gray card and have the time to set a situational white balance, you can zero in on the color even more accurately.

Conclusion

Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

Next time you shoot outdoors in overcast weather, search the scene for something interesting and unique, something that will bring a smile to your face. I’ve found that I find whatever I’m looking for in life, and that includes dismal weather. There is a bright spot in just about every situation if you keep your eyes (and your mind) open.

I hope this inspires you to look forward to photographing on overcast days. These special days deliver great natural lighting and provide many opportunities to see a different side of life.

Do you photograph on overcast days? What are your thoughts? Share with us in the comments!

The post Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn’t Get Any Better appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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