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How to Remove a Fence From Your Photo in Just 3 Steps in Photoshop (video)

18 Jan

The post How to Remove a Fence From Your Photo in Just 3 Steps in Photoshop (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this Photoshop video tutorial from Piximperfect, you’ll learn how you can remove a fence from your photo in Photoshop – you know, those annoying fences in front of your subject.

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How to remove a fence from your photo in just 3 steps in Photoshop

Use the following steps to remove your fence:

Step one: Painting out the fence on a layer mask

  1. Make a layer mask.
  2. Zoom in close to your fence, then choose a hard-edged brush that is just slightly larger than the edge of your fence (be sure your paintbrush color is black).
  3. To paint the fence, simply click at the beginning of the fence, then hold the shift key, move the brush to the next section of fence and click. This will create a straight line.
  4. Continue this process over every section of the fence. While this can take some time, duplicating the pattern generally won’t work as no two sections will be the same).
  5. While zoomed in, to move around the image, press the space bar to bring up the Hand and then move the image to where you need it. Then continue painting in the fence lines.
  6. Be sure to paint over all the discrepancies in the fence. If some sections of the fence aren’t straight, simply paint in two or three points.
  7. Once you have painted in all the fence lines, you can move onto the next step.

Step two: Apply the Content-Aware fill

  1. Select the background layer and turn off the fence mask layer using the eye icon next to the layer.
  2. Now hold Ctrl (PC) or Cmd (Mac) and click on the thumbnail of the fence mask layer. This will select the fence layer.
  3. Go to Edit->Content-Aware Fill (If you are using an older version of Photoshop, for to Edit->Fill and then choose Content-Aware from the dropdown section).
  4. This will open up the Content-Aware Fill settings. Leave them at the default settings. Just change the Output To: setting to New Layer. Click OK.
  5. Press Ctrl+D (PC) or Cmd+D (Mac) to deselect the fence.
  6. To see how the Content-Aware Fill tool has worked, turn off your background layer momentarily. Then turn it back on.

Step three: Making minor adjustments

  1. The image may look great while zoomed out on the full image, but when zoomed in close, some areas may not look right. This is where the minor adjustments come into play.
  2. Create a new layer.
  3. You can use the Spot Healing Brush Tool. Paint over areas that need fixing with a soft brush. Be sure that the “Sample All Layers” box is checked too. That way, it samples all the layers below the layer you are working on.
  4. For trickier sections, like eyes, select the Clone Stamp Tool.
  5. Take a sample of a similar section by clicking the Alt Key and selecting. If you need to rotate your clone (for example, around an eye). Hold down Shift+Alt+Right or Left Arrows or > (Win) and Shift+Opt+Right or Left Arrows (Mac)
  6. You can also do that by going to Window->Clone Source and then manually entering in the angle of rotation.
  7. Then use the regular Healing Brush Tool. Click the Alt (Win) or Option Key (Mac) to take your sample then paint in the areas that need fixing.
  8. If you are having difficulty fixing areas such as the eyes, consider duplicating the other eye.
  9. To do this, make a new layer. Then use the Clone Tool and make your selection from the same eye. Then repaint it onto the new layer.
  10. Then press Ctrl or Cmd+D to select it and right-click and select Flip Vertical. This then brings up the corner anchors, and you can rotate the eye as you please.
  11. Next, move the rotated eye section over the top of the original eye.
  12. Click on the Mask icon on the Layers panel to create a mask. Select your brush tool. Remember, a black fill will hide your layer (paint it out).
  13. Start painting out the sections you don’t want. You can lower the opacity of your layer so that you can get it’s positioning just right too.
  14. Next, merge your clone layers (not the background or Content-Aware Fill layers). To do this, select the first layer, then press Ctrl or Cmd and click on the next layer. Then press Ctrl or Cmd+E to merge them.
  15. Continue to look for discrepancies and fix those using the same process.

Step Four: Further adjustments

  1. Now, you can make further adjustments to your image, including selective focus.
  2. Next, create a stamp visible layer.
  3. To do this, first, create a new layer and call it “Selective Focus.” Then select Ctl+Alt+Shift+E (win) or Cmd+Opt+Shift+E (Mac). This will bring your image into the layer.
  4. Then convert the layer to a smart object. Go to Filter->Convert for Smart Filters. Click OK.
  5. Then go to Filters->Blur Gallery and choose Tilt Blur. Next, rotate it. Keep in mind that the areas in the middles are focused – they have zero blur.
  6. Adjust the blur level to whatever you like. You can also adjust the width of the blur area by pulling the lines outward.
  7. Always have your eyes in focus.
  8. You can also add other blur types if you like.
  9. You can also add some sharpness to the eyes. Create another Stamp layer as above. Then desaturate it by clicking Ctrl+Shift+U (Win) or Cmd+Shift+U (Mac). Then go to Filter->Convert for Smart Filter. Click OK.
  10. Next, go to Filter->Other->High Pass. Zoom in so you can see the detail. Decrease the radius slowly and gradually increase it. Just when you begin to see the halos, stop.
  11. Change your layer blend mode to Overlay.
  12. You will see the sharpness on the overall image, but you really only want it on the face. So, hold down the Alt Key (win) or Opt Key (Mac) and then click on the mask. This will create a negative (black) Mask.
  13. First, name it “Sharpen.” Then click the mask, select your Brush Tool, then choose a soft brush and paint on the areas you want to sharpen (Be sure your white paint palette is selected).

And that’s it!

Share your before and after results with us in the comments section!

 

The post How to Remove a Fence From Your Photo in Just 3 Steps in Photoshop (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Protests

18 Jan

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Protests appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is PROTESTS!

Climate-Change-Rally-Wollongong-January-2020-by-Caz-Nowaczyk

Climate Change Rally, Wollongong NSW Australia, January 2020 by Caz Nowaczyk

In many countries around the world, people protest all sorts of issues – climate change, equality, human rights, government policies etc.

In my home town, there was a recent protest on climate change – brought about by the recent bushfire crisis in Australia.

So, this week’s challenge is to go out and shoot any pictures that include protests (if there are none in your town, perhaps you protest about something and would like to depict that somehow in picture form).

Set out to capture the energy, emotion, wide crowd shots, close-ups of signs and people.

So, check out these pics, have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Climate-Change-Rally-Wollongong-January-2020-by-Caz-Nowaczyk-02

Climate Change Rally, Wollongong NSW Australia, January 2020 by Caz Nowaczyk

Climate-Change-Rally-Wollongong-January-2020-by-Caz-Nowaczyk-03

Climate Change Rally, Wollongong NSW Australia, January 2020 by Caz Nowaczyk

Climate-Change-Rally-Wollongong-January-2020-by-Caz-Nowaczyk-04

Climate Change Rally, Wollongong NSW Australia, January 2020 by Caz Nowaczyk

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting PROTESTS

The Ultimate Guide to Street Photography

The Ultimate Guide to Zone Focusing for Candid Street Photography

Photographing Festivals and Events – Tips for Travel Photographers

How to Organize and Photograph Events Like a Pro

5 Tips for Safely Photographing a Dangerous Event

7 Tips for Capturing the Decisive Moment in Street Photography

 

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSprotests to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Protests appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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How to Photograph Travel Icons With Success

17 Jan

The post How to Photograph Travel Icons With Success appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

how-to-photograph-travel-icons

With far-reaching places more accessible than ever, many more people are traveling around the world. Seeing the many pictures people post of popular landmarks on social media, it seems everyone has traveled to the same places. Amongst some great shots of the famous travel icons that are frequently shared, there are many below average shots. So how should you photograph travel icons successfully? Here are some useful travel photography tips to help you return with better shots.

Photograph Travel Icons

Taj Mahal, India

Research

To photograph travel icons well, start by doing a bit of research to identify some of the world’s famous sights.

Some of the most popular places include the Taj Mahal, the Eiffel Tower, Machu Picchu, Angkor Wat, the Houses of Parliament and the Grand Canyon.

During your research, think about when and where you want to go and the best times of day to visit. Some of the top travel sights in the world are only open during certain hours, so do your research and time your visit accordingly.

Explore on foot

One way to get around on your travels is to explore on foot. What are the benefits of doing so?

A benefit of walking around is that it is more enjoyable than being confined to a vehicle. You may also come across things to photograph that you wouldn’t see from a car.

Exploring on foot is a great way to photograph travel icons as you have the ability to move around freely and can change your perspective with ease. By exploring on foot, you can find other interesting points of view to shoot. For example, you can shoot at ground level or find a higher elevation to shoot from.

Image: Blue Mosque, Turkey

Blue Mosque, Turkey

Use a tripod

If there are too many people at your chosen sight, there are other ways to photograph travel icons, such as using a tripod and doing long exposures to blur people out of the shots entirely. You may need to use a neutral density (ND) filter to slow your exposure down in bright conditions.

Other benefits of using a tripod besides blurring people out are that it will help to minimize the risk of movement in your shots and allow extra light to enter the frame making your pictures brighter than if you were taking pictures by hand. It also helps to take the weight off your shoulders if you carry a heavy camera bag and allows you to return to a place and replicate shots at different times of the day.

If you do use a tripod to photograph travel icons, be aware that certain travel locations, such as the Taj Mahal, won’t allow you to bring in a tripod, so consider this when planning your trip.

Capture the moment

Photograph Travel Icons

Iguazu Falls, South America

Capturing the moment is about choosing when to shoot and anticipating the right moment to press the shutter button to get a great image.

The best time to capture the moment and make an image stand out is at a decisive moment. This could either be the instant something interesting happens or a sequence of events that occur quickly – that disappears in the blink of an eye.

A fleeting occasion could be some dramatic light hitting the side of a well-known building, a rainbow suddenly appearing and adding drama to the background of a travel icon or when the northern lights (Aurora Borealis) appear and dance in the night sky before the moment fades.

Whatever moment you want to capture, think about how you could present your travel icon at the decisive moment.

Look for new angles

Research the travel icon on social media and see how most photos represent it. Then look for new angles to photograph travel icons successfully and capture the sight uniquely. Consider what makes the icon so special and change your composition to capture the most exciting parts.

Image: Taj Mahal, India

Taj Mahal, India

Storytelling

To photograph travel icons well, try telling the story of the icon through wide shots, details shots, and both interior and exterior images. This can add interest to your pictures and show a famous landmark in a new light.

Conclusion

In summary, to photograph travel icons well, do your research and plan ahead. Think about where and when you want to go. Bringing a tripod can be useful for shooting longer exposures and to create more blur in your shots. Try capturing a new angle and shoot a variety of pictures to tell a story of a familiar landmark including a wide-angle and close-up shots.

With these tips, get out and capture a travel icon near you or during your next holiday. Share your pictures with us below and any tips you have for photographing travel icons well?

The post How to Photograph Travel Icons With Success appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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What is Ambient Light in Photography? An Explanation for Beginner Photographers

17 Jan

The post What is Ambient Light in Photography? An Explanation for Beginner Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

what-is-ambient-light-in-photography

Have you ever wondered what ambient light in photography means? You may have heard phrases such as “capture the ambiance,” “allow ambient light,” and have wondered how to do that. This article explains exactly that!

So let’s get started.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/60th

Simply stated, ambient light means the light already available in the space before you add any other lighting. Yes, any light already available and that could be many types!

Types of ambient light in photography

1. Natural light from outdoors

The first type of ambient light in photography is natural light from outdoors. This is the daylight that comes through side windows, ceiling windows, and open doorways.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 6400, 1/60th (This was shot on a very dark and overcast winter day in a north-east facing kitchen)

Compare the two images above and below. The image above was taken using purely natural light from outdoors whilst the image below incorporated neons, lamps and spotlights.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 4000, 1/60th

2. Natural light from indoors

Candle lights and the glow of light coming from fireplaces are natural lights that can already be indoor sources rather than the natural sunlight coming from outdoors.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 1600, 1/60th

 

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 1000, 1/60th

3. Artificial lights in the home

This is a range of lights commonly seen in homes and spaces. It includes ceiling down-lighters, spotlights, ceiling pendants, chandeliers, table lamps, floor lamps, neon lights, lights from mirrors, fluorescent lights, and wall sconces.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 6400, 1/30th

Which light/lights do you require?

In photography, the question is, what light is needed to achieve the image the photographer wants to capture? I dare say there are no hard and fast rules as the success of an image depends on getting the correct lighting combination required, regardless of the type of lighting.

Let’s explore some lighting scenarios in various spaces.

Portraits

Just like any type of lighting, whether it be natural or artificial, ambient light is just one option for photographers.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

Left: f/2.8, ISO 1000, 1/100th  Lens 24-70mm Right: f/4, ISO 400, 1/125th with off-camera flash

In portraits, ambient light could be purely the sunlight coming through a side window. To shoot this, a photographer would only need a camera. And, if it helps to achieve the image, a few accessories such as a reflector, a diffuser, and a backdrop – or use an existing wall.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

Left: f/2.8, ISO 1000, 1/100th  Lens 24-70mm Right: f/4, ISO 400, 1/125th with off-camera flash

Conversely, the photographer may choose not to use ambient light at all and solely utilize electronic flashes or vice versa in the same space above.

Sunlight from windows is not usually strong (depending on the size of windows and the position of the sun). It’s definitely not as strong as electronic flashes can be, so sometimes there is no need to block it out fully. Electronic light can cancel out any natural light from the windows or can add a touch of light to any ambient light where needed. The outcome depends on the settings used by the photographer.

The images on the left above have been shot using natural light filtering through the diffused window and a reflector to increase the shadows. The images on the right have been shot using electronic flash in a softbox. Here is an article on how to achieve both set-ups. My typical settings for portrait shots are around f/2.8 – f/4, ISO 200 – ISO 400, SS 1/100 – SS160.

Events

Ambient light is your best friend when it comes to events. Weddings and parties are often busy and buzzing with people. Here in the UK, space for large equipment at such events is not always available and often the photographer has to rely on just a camera and a speedlight to capture these events.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/2.8, ISO 3200, 1/100th  Flash power 1/32 Lens 24-70mm

Letting the ambient light in is key to capturing the ambiance of the room and the atmosphere of the party. This means allowing background lights such as fairy lights, festoon lights, wall sconces etc to seep into the image.

The resulting look has depth rather than a flat dark backdrop. My typical settings for events range between f/4 – 5.6, ISO is rather high especially indoors in dark areas around 3200 – 6400, SS rather low around 1/60 – 100.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/100th  Lens 70 – 200mm

The last thing a photographer wants to do is to kill any ambiance by using a strong flash to mitigate low light – especially in events where dry ice is used to create smoke effects and various colored lighting for a party atmosphere.

You don’t want to completely obliterate these just to light your subjects’ faces.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/8, ISO 2000, 1/30th, Lens 24-70mm, off-camera flash

Balancing speedlight flash power and shutter speeds is key to achieving images like these as well as incorporating existing ambient light.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/125th, Lens 24-70mm with off-camera flash

You can read more about dragging the shutter here, a technique used often to produce these images.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 2500, 1/60th,  Lens 70 – 200mm with off-camera flash and on-camera flash

You can use ambient light in the background to create silhouettes.

In the photo below, there was no light whatsoever on the balcony. I used the light inside the building to create a silhouette of one of the guests. This was an unposed shot so it was a rather hasty one.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/11, ISO 2000, 1/200th,  Lens 24-70mm

Interiors

Most photographers and magazines require natural light only in the interiors images they use.

Most often this would need a tripod and the use of slow shutter speeds to mitigate dark areas in the space that need capturing. But if the space is characterized by light features such as neon and lamps that make the atmosphere of the room, then I’m for capturing these with the lights on too.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 2000, 1/100th,  Lens 24-70mm

In my opinion, it is necessary to be selective with the amount of artificial ambient light to allow in a photographic composition to ensure a harmonious and natural-looking image.

More importantly, it is a must to edit out the lights that are unnecessary in the space for the image you want to achieve. Below are three different lighting set-ups in one space. All three dramatically change the look and feel of the same room.

My typical settings for interior shots depend on the time of day and how much natural light the room gets but range between f/5.6 – f/8, ISO is quite high around 2000 – 4000, SS usually really low around 1/30 – 60 or 100 depending on light availability.

On the photos below, the top photo utilized only natural light. The photo in the middle had all sorts of lights going on like festoon, lamps, fairy lights, candlelight, and neon but without the main ceiling chandelier, which is very bright. The third photo had the chandelier switched on on top of everything else, but because it got too bright, it killed the ambiance in the room.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/80th,  Lens 24-70mm

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 4000, 1/80th,  Lens 24-70mm

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/60th,  Lens 24-70mm Highlights taken down in editing.

I lean towards a selective mixture of lighting in my interiors.

Some areas are so hard to capture. For example, really dark areas where there is no ambient light at all and using a long shutter speed will overexpose the areas with light and correctly expose the unlit area.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 2500, 1/60th, Lens 24-70mm

Of course, this can be rectified by bracketing and compositing in Photoshop. But I don’t always want to be doing that! Besides, I think adding some form of ambient light brings some charm in. Take these photos above and below, for example, illustrating this point.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 6400, 1/30th,  Lens 24-70mm

Color temperature

One of the most common problematic issues when using mixed lighting, especially when including electronic flash into the mix, is color temperature disparity. Natural light from sunlight is usually around 5600K range, while tungsten lights indoors are usually around 3200K.

This means that when shooting outdoors, you need to set your white balance to around 5000 – 5750 Kelvin. That way, the resulting image looks similar to what you see with the naked eye. If you were to set the white balance to 3000K, for example, everything will look very blue (nothing worse than a white wedding dress looking blue!).

The same is true when shooting indoors with tungsten or incandescent lights on. The temperature required to shoot this image is around 3200K, but if you shoot it with the white balance set at 5650K, you will end up with an image looking very orange.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/80th,  Lens 24-70mm

The most important thing to remember is to shoot with the correct white balance setting.

However, when using mixed lighting, you will still get color disparity. Here are three ways to solve this, depending on what you require for your images.

  1. You can adjust the white balance in post-production (shoot with a gray card or specified color temperature in your white balance)
  2. Use gels for your artificial lights to match the ambient temperature
  3. Change the bulbs in your indoor lamps to match the sunlight temperature and then adjust everything evenly in post-production if required.

As for me, I try to match what I see in real life to the outcome of the images. Then they are warmed up in post-production for a natural color with the added touch of a film look to best capture what my eye sees.

I hope this little article has helped you in your understanding of ambient light in photography as well as balancing color temperatures when dealing with mixed lighting.

If you have any tips to add about ambient light in photography, do share in the comments below.

The post What is Ambient Light in Photography? An Explanation for Beginner Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


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Back to Basics: What is the Reciprocal Rule in Photography?

16 Jan

The post Back to Basics: What is the Reciprocal Rule in Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

what-is-the-reciprocal-rule-in-photography

There are extremely few true “rules” in photography. This is an odd thing to say, especially in an article explaining the “Reciprocal Rule”. In an effort to do you and I both a favor, I think it’s best to get this out of the way right here at the beginning. Whenever we refer to the Reciprocal Rule in photography as…well…a rule, just know that it’s meant as more of a helpful guide rather than an iron-clad rule. Got it? Good.

Now, onward to the good stuff!

In photography, motion is both our friend and enemy. Intentional or anticipated movement from our subjects or camera can result in magically extraordinary photos. At the same time, unintentional motion, specifically unwanted camera shake, can rob our images of sharpness and depth.

Sanderlings on the Pacific Coast

Falling short of the Reciprocal Rule requirements. 1/200th of a second at F/5.6 with a 300mm lens.

We’ve mentioned the Reciprocal Rule quite a few times in other articles, but today we’re going to dig a bit deeper and learn more about how to use this extremely simple technique. It very well could be one of the most useful bits of knowledge you can possess when it comes to helping you prevent unwanted camera shake.

What is the Reciprocal Rule?

Banish all thoughts of grade school math and algebra class from your mind when you read the word “reciprocal.” True, the Reciprocal Rule hints at mathematics but the technique itself is incredibly simple.

Simply put, for full-frame image sensors (more on this in a bit) the Reciprocal Rule states that your slowest shutter speed when shooting handheld should not be longer than “1” over your selected focal length in millimeters.

Reciprocal Rule in photography formula

Not so bad, right?

In order to reduce the appearance of inherent camera shake when hand-holding your camera, just don’t allow your shutter speed to dip below the reciprocal of your focal length.

Author’s Note: In mathematics, the word “reciprocal” is generally considered interchangeable with “multiplicative inverse”…which sounds much cooler. 

It’s here where our previous discussions of the Reciprocal Rule in photography have ended but that is not the case today! Let’s drill down a little further and examine how the Reciprocal Rule works.

A caveat on reciprocal vs reciprocity

Talking about the Reciprocal Rule in photography can be tricky at times because it sometimes gets confused with another photographic principle called “reciprocity.”

Reciprocity, or more specifically reciprocity failure, is a phenomenon photographers sometimes had to manage back in the pre-digital photography days of film. Simply put, film emulsions become less light-sensitive as they are exposed which requires adjusted exposure times based on the type of film and the duration of the metered exposure.

Kodak Ektar 100 35mm film

Each of these 35mm frames is approximately the size of a modern full-frame digital sensor.

Fortunately for us, digital camera sensors don’t suffer from reciprocity failure. However, there are times when autocorrect or well-meaning individuals sometimes confuse the Reciprocal Rule and reciprocity failure as being one and the same when they absolutely are not.

Why does the Reciprocal Rule work?

While the Reciprocal Rule centers around estimating exposures based on your focal length, it is not actually dependent on that variable. In fact, the reason why the focal length of your lens matters is because longer focal lengths result in more constrained angles of view (field of view). The tighter your angle of view, the more noticeable camera shake becomes.

Long focal length camera lens

So, shorter focal length lenses can achieve relatively long handheld exposures over longer focal lenses due to their wider angle of view – not their optical focal length. The Reciprocal Rule is useful because it takes into consideration the progressively decreasing angle of view produced as focal length increases.

Check out this quick video where I breakdown why the Reciprocal Rule works.

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Sensor size and the Reciprocal Rule

First, a bit of backstory on sensor sizes, but I promise it will come back around to the Reciprocal Rule.

If you’ve been involved in making photos with a digital camera for any length of time, then you likely have encountered the phrase “crop factor” when talking about digital camera sensors. Albeit there are exceptions, today almost all consumer photography lenses center around the standard 135 film format, commonly known as 35mm.

This is where the concept of “full-frame” digital sensors originated as they are roughly the same dimensions as those of a frame of 35mm film, give or take. Therefore, mounting a lens of a focal length based on the 35mm full-frame film standard to a cropped sensor camera, the field of view becomes inherently more narrow (cropped) due to the smaller sensor size.

Essentially, a cropped sensor will “zoom” a full-frame lens and cause it to have a longer effective focal length.

Hasselblad medium format digital sensor and full frame Sony A7r sensor

Every camera manufacturer’s cropped sensor has a crop factor you can use to approximate the resulting focal length of a full-frame lens when used on a cropped-sensor camera. For example, Canon’s cropped sensor (APS-C) has a crop factor of 1.6x because a full-frame Canon sensor is approximately 1.6x larger than that of its cropped-sensor counterpart.

Canon 5D MK3 compared to Canon 7D MK1 sensor

So, my 50mm lens is considered a true 50mm lens when mounted to my full-frame sensor 5D MKIII. However, if I were to mount that same 50mm to my cropped sensor 7D, it would instantly become approximately an 80mm lens (1.6 x 50mm) instead of 50mm.

The reason why sensor size and crop factors become important when using the Reciprocal Rule in photography is due to their effect on the effective angle of view.

The Reciprocal Rule states that I should use a shutter speed no slower than 1/50th of a second with a 50mm lens and full-frame camera.

A cropped sensor camera with that same 50mm lens would dictate a faster shutter speed be employed since the crop factor has changed the effective focal length of our lens to 80mm.

This results in a reciprocal of 1/80th of a second minimum shutter speed.

Without going much further down the rabbit hole on sensor sizes, just know that the opposite is also true when using sensor sizes larger than the full-frame standard. The resulting “reverse crop factor” would be less than 1x. It would mean that a full-frame sensor camera lens would now produce a wider angle of view, thus, increasing the duration of your allowable handheld shutter speed.

The effects of image stabilization

Another aspect to consider when talking about the Reciprocal Rule is that of image stabilization. More and more often today, manufacturers are building better and more efficient image stabilization into their cameras and lenses. Many of these image stabilization systems offer upwards of 2-stops of reported stabilization (meaning you can shoot 2-stops or more slower shutter speeds).

Lens image stabilization

This means that we can incorporate the approximate stops of image stabilization (should you have it) when making use of the Reciprocal Rule.

It’s actually quite simple.

If you engage your lens or camera’s image stabilization, you are effectively lengthening your allowable handheld shutter speed by ever how many stops the stabilization states it will compensate. Feel free to adjust the shutter speed of the Reciprocal Rule and see if you can manage even longer shutters due to the stabilization.

Final thoughts on the Reciprocal Rule

There are very few absolutes when it comes to making photographs. Every photographer is different, and what works for one might very well not work for another.

This is especially the case when dealing with techniques such as the Reciprocal Rule in photography. Although it attempts to help us prevent unwanted camera shake by providing a quick and easy baseline shutter speed based on our lens, it should not be considered a true “rule.”

Granted, some of us are simply better at holding our cameras more steady than others, but there is no replacement for practice and optimal body mechanics when it comes to producing less shaky photos.

The next time a tripod is not handy or practical, use the Reciprocal Rule to help you increase your odds of getting a sharper photo each and every time you’re shooting from the hip.

 

You may also like:

  • Back to Basics: Deciphering Shutter Speed and Motion
  • Back to Basics: Understanding the “Sunny 16 Rule” in Photography

 

The post Back to Basics: What is the Reciprocal Rule in Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Gear review: 3 K&F Concept Camera Bags Put To The Test

16 Jan

The post Gear review: 3 K&F Concept Camera Bags Put To The Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

K&F-concept-camera-bags

In this gear review, I have tested out 3 different types of K&F Concept camera bags so you can see their differences and whether they would suit your needs.

Regardless of which camera you have or whether you are a professional or amateur, a good camera bag is one of the essential purchases that you need to make. After all, it is what will carry your expensive equipment around and keep it safe and dry.

However, it is also essential that your camera bag is comfortable to wear. There’s nothing worse than carrying all that weight on your back for hours on end and being uncomfortable.

Over time as you buy more camera equipment, your camera bag will need to change. Or you may need different types of bags for different scenarios. But what should you buy first? With so many different types of bags out there, the choice is endless.

K&F-concept-camera-bags

The three K&F Concept camera bags

1. Travel Sling Bag

The first of the three K&F Concept camera bags is the K&F camera sling backpack. This pack is the perfect unassuming, easy-to-carry backpack for those who don’t own a lot of camera equipment.

The sling bag easily and securely holds a DSLR and two lenses in a padded and removable inner bag.

One of the great things about this sling bag is you can remove the inner bag to use the bag as a normal backpack. Or you can remove the bag whilst shooting to have quick and easy access to your lenses. That way, you don’t have to open and close the bag constantly.

The sling bag has enough additional space to hold a 13” laptop and any other little bits you may have, such as memory cards, lenses cleaners, and phone as well as a water bottle holder on the side.

Measuring at just 41 x 27 x 13cm, the bag is small and compact enough to have on your back in those busy situations like events and festivals where a big bag would be cumbersome. It is also made of waterproof and anti-wrinkle nylon with double stitching for added durability and shock/vibration absorbing inner padding. So this lightweight bag (just 0.8kg net weight) will keep your expensive equipment safe whatever you get up to.

Who’s this for?

This bag is ideal for a photographer with only a small amount of kit who wants to travel light, but safe in the knowledge their equipment will be protected and secure.

At the time of writing, this bag is priced at $ 39.99, making it an ideal bag for a first-time buyer who doesn’t want to spend a fortune on a camera bag. But it will also benefit those who may want an additional smaller bag to support their bigger day-to-day bag.

K&F-concept-camera-bags

2. Fashion Outdoor Backpack

The first thing I noticed about this K&F fashion camera backpack is that it doesn’t look like a camera bag. This is great for two reasons; firstly, it looks great and is useful in those situations where you may want to look a little smarter in your appearance – for example, at a wedding. But more importantly, because it doesn’t draw attention to the fact that you have thousands of dollars of camera equipment on your back.

Split into two main areas, the bottom of the bag has 10mm padded dividers with enough space to hold a large DSLR and 3 lenses – easily accessible from the back and side – while the top section of the bag has sufficient room to hold personal items such as a 13” laptop.

The exterior of the backpack has a side-mounted tripod strap and enough storage to hold all your extra bits and pieces.

Another great thing about this pack is the side access that allows you to take out your camera equipment without having to take the bag off.

The exterior is scratch, tear and water-resistant, but you also get a rain/dust cover for more severe weather conditions. The breathable air-mesh back and shoulder straps make this bag incredibly comfortable to carry all day even when you have it fully loaded.

Who’s this for?

This bag is great for the photographer who has a few lenses and sometimes carries a tripod with them. However, it is also for someone who doesn’t want to shout out to the world that they have camera equipment with them. Anyone traveling in some parts of the world could benefit from a bag such as this.

K&F-concept-camera-bags

3. Large DSLR Camera backpack

Number three of the K&F Concept camera bags is the K&F large DSLR backpack, which is the biggest bag in the range.

With sufficient room (25 liters) for two large DSLR bodies, five to six lenses, and flash, it will serve anyone from the serious hobbyist to professionals.

With enough pockets to hold your filters, batteries and memory cards and a back-mounted tripod holder, this pack has enough room for even those with lots of equipment. It can be opened fully from the back but also has easy access at the top of the bag for those times when you need more discreet and quick access to your camera.

The K&F Concept large DSLR backpack comes with a range of shock and vibration separators that, like the other bags, can be arranged perfectly to snuggly and safely fit all your gear. Made from quality splash and tear-resistant nylon with its unique stitching and tension technology, it ensures load-bearing areas won’t rip or become frayed.

One of the most important elements of a bag this size is that it has to be comfortable to wear for long periods. The back and straps of this bag are breathable and padded. When used with the chest and hip straps, it can help reduce the weight on your shoulders. This pack also comes with the rain/dust cover as well.

Who’s this for?

Whilst clearly designed with professionals in mind, this backpack would also make a great bag for any level photographer. It gives you plenty of room for when you expand your equipment.

K&F-concept-camera-bags

Conclusion

I have never been one to promote buying lots of equipment or accessories; however, camera bags are a vital part of my set up. I have a few different sized bags for various scenarios. Because sometimes it’s not feasible to carry a big backpack with me.

These 3 K&F Concept camera bags are a good example of a set that would serve a photographer well throughout their photography journey. The great thing is that you’ll probably end up re-using your bags for years to come.

Note: The author was given these K&F Concept camera bags free of charge to test and was offered no incentives. This review is an unbiased opinion of his experience in using the products provided.

What is your favorite camera bag/pack? Have you tried any of these packs? Share your thoughts with us in the comments section!

The post Gear review: 3 K&F Concept Camera Bags Put To The Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.


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How to Make a Unified Instagram Feed as a Photographer to Help Support Your Brand

15 Jan

The post How to Make a Unified Instagram Feed as a Photographer to Help Support Your Brand appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

unified-instagram-feed-for-photographers

Social media has such a strong presence in our world, both in a personal and professional sense. Gone are the days of searching for a photographer via Google. Many are turning to the social media platform, Instagram. Instagram has become a powerful tool for photographers and content creators alike. It is an engagement-oriented online portfolio so-to-speak.

But with thousands of accounts active on Instagram in any given second, how do you stand out from the rest and still attract photography clients? By having a feed that is more aesthetically pleasing than the rest!

Here is our guide on how to make a unified Instagram feed as a photographer.

What does a unified Instagram feed even mean?

Image: This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification by color tonality. She uses blues and pi...

This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification by color tonality. She uses blues and pinks to unify her Instagram feed.

Humans naturally gravitate to cohesiveness, especially those with a certain sensitivity to aesthetic.

A unified Instagram is one in which each image, viewed in totality with one another, look like a piece of a great puzzle. Each one appears to belong and in some way, shape, or form unites with another surrounding it.

It’s the difference between a feed that looks cluttered and disconnected and one that looks like it is a part of a strategically and effortlessly tailored brand.

Having unity in your work not only pushes your brand further, but can attract a slew of eyes on your product (the beautiful images!). Not only is it a trend to have something a bit more cohesive, it has been shown to really aid in acquiring new clients who are attracted to the style your showcasing.

Image: An example of my varied feed – when you have many areas of specialization, it can be difficul...

An example of my varied feed – when you have many areas of specialization, it can be difficult to maintain complete cohesiveness.

This isn’t a tried and true method for all photography businesses. For example, I am a multi-faceted photographer and to have an overly-cohesive feed is just not possible for me. However, my fellow industry mates have very beautifully tailored and structured feeds that work brilliantly for them! Their clients know exactly what to expect and hire them based on their look.

The real secret?

Image: This is an example of my thematic feed of female portraits with animals.

This is an example of my thematic feed of female portraits with animals.

So, what’s the real secret? For the most part, it’s utilizing the same editing mechanism over and over again. Create a preset or a general direction for your editing, and replicate this across your full board. This already creates a look of cohesiveness with minimal effort.

I suggest not using Instagram’s preset filters as these tend to lower the quality of your images. Instead, create your own Presets or Actions in Lightroom or Photoshop. You can even automate these to play on the batch of images you select for posting.

If you find that preset editing really isn’t you, unite your feed by topic or theme. This also allows you an opportunity to really solidify your niche as a photographer and attract the right demographic to your work. Figure out what kind of photographer you are and who or what your most common subjects tend to be, and post images that fit within that scope.

Image: In this feed from Goldilocks and the Wolf, there is unification by the fairytale theme and th...

In this feed from Goldilocks and the Wolf, there is unification by the fairytale theme and the winter landscapes.

Creating a unified feed based on a color palette is also an excellent idea.

Colors are a major way to keep everything looking tailored and express who you are as a creator.

Color theory is a complex topic that can be taught for hours, but the general idea is that certain hues and color combinations attract a specific reaction. Tying marketing into Instagram, find a color palette that tends to attract your customers (and potential customers).

Look at what your followers gravitate towards, and feed into that wanting. It’s okay to break up your feed with text that engages your audience base, and keep everything still looking together.

Bonus tip: create a posting calendar for the month. Preview these images in a mockup of your Instagram feed and see how it all looks together. This provides a lot of insight on the final outcome!

If you make a unified feed and then want to change the theme, what then?

Image: This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification in sets of 3 (with editing style and ima...

This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification in sets of 3 (with editing style and images from the same photo shoot), but also overall because Jessica herself is the theme.

I think a daunting aspect of this is all is permanence.

If you spend the time making your images cohesive with one another and then change your mind, has all of your effort been wasted?

Not at all! It’s quite simple to change your theme. You can choose to gradually shift to your new aesthetic or go bold and post three images in the new style right off the bat and go with that.

Final thoughts

Image: Rachel Lauren’s Instagram Feed. Her feed is unified in both her editing style and theme...

Rachel Lauren’s Instagram Feed. Her feed is unified in both her editing style and theme with the portraits with animals.

Remember that while in the pursuit of unity, don’t lose yourself or who you are as a photographer.

There is a fine line to walk between solely appeasing the masses and ensuring that your individual photography voice is heard. Where that balance is, rests entirely on your own opinion.

As well as this, be wary about appearing too repetitive and monotonous – try to post images that have different compositions or express something new. Being cohesive doesn’t mean being boring.

When you make a unified Instagram feed as a photographer, put your best imaging foot forward first!

The post How to Make a Unified Instagram Feed as a Photographer to Help Support Your Brand appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.


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Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop

15 Jan

The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

tips-for-processing-black-and-white-images-in-photoshop

If you’re a lover of black and white imagery (like many of us photographers are), then you are probably aware of the many, many options there are for you to convert your images to black in white in Photoshop (and other software packages). Conversion is only the first step in processing black and white images. Once you have gotten rid of the color in your photos, you will still want to control and manage the tones in your images to get the best results possible. This article will introduce you to a few of these Photoshop tools that you can use to create images with impact.

Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

Global/Local Adjustments

Before jumping straight into the list of tools, it is important to differentiate between two different types of adjustments you can make to your images.

Global Adjustments – Global adjustments are adjustments that affect the entire image. For example, if you use the contrast slider in Lightroom, it alters the contrast in the entire image.

Global adjustments in processing black and white images.

As a global adjustment, this curves layer that was meant to bring down the highlights has affected the whole image and not in a pleasant way.

Local Adjustments – Local adjustments are made to specific areas of an image that you define. For example, you can adjust the contrast for a portrait subject’s eyes and the contrast for their shirt separately.

Local adjustments in processing black and white images.

Using a layer mask allowed for a local adjustment, meaning the curves layer only affected the mid-tones surrounding the subject’s face.

What this means for your images

These distinctions are important because, in most cases, you will want to avoid profound global adjustments on your images. Most photos are made of scenes of different elements. If you think of this in terms of portraiture, imagine a person standing against a studio backdrop, such as the image below.

Isolating areas of tonality in processing black and white images.

Dividing an image into areas of tonality and then making adjustments to those areas separately, gives you complete control over your images.

Here, you can divide the image up into several parts. You have the subject’s skin, eyes, shirt, hair, and background. Each of these elements reacts differently to various adjustments. By using global adjustments, you will alter the appearance of these elements at the same time.

For example, if you want to increase the contrast of the shirt by a large amount to help bring out the texture, then you will also be increasing the contrast of the subject’s skin. As a general guide, you usually don’t want to increase contrast on skin. More often than not, you will want to reduce it.

How do you go about increasing the contrast of a shirt while reducing contrast on the skin at the same time? Through the use of local adjustments.

Tools for applying local adjustments

There are a lot of ways to apply local adjustments to your images in Photoshop. Here is a primer on a handful of them.

The right tool for the job depends entirely on the job at hand. By learning how to use several of these options, you will arm yourself with a variety of ways to use local adjustments while processing black and white images.

Remember, this is an introduction to the various tools that you can use and not a full tutorial.

Layer masks

Layer masks are probably the easiest and most common way to get started with local adjustments in Photoshop. If you’re not already familiar with how to use this powerful yet intrinsic aspect of Photoshop, I strongly encourage you to spend some time reading up on and practicing using them as soon as possible.

A layer mask effectively blocks an adjustment layer (masks it) from affecting parts of the image that you don’t want it to.

Using layer masks in processing black and white images

Layer masks will help you to isolate specific areas of your image that you want to make adjustments to. Here, the subject’s hat is darkened.

In the example above, I made a Curves adjustment layer and filled the layer mask with black. Using a white brush (B) set to 100% opacity, I painted (with the layer mask clicked) over the subject’s eyes. Now, no matter what I do with the curves layer, it will only affect the area that I painted white in the layer mask.

Using this technique, you can create as many Curves adjustment layers as you want (or any other type of adjustment layer) with each one only affecting specific parts of the image.  This way, you are able to treat each element in your image with individual care.

Using layer masks in processing black and white images.

Here, you can see three separate curves layers with their own masks. Each one is doing a different job separately from the other. The first two are darkening areas of the image, while the top on is lightening the background.

Select Color Range

While you are working with your layer masks, it can sometimes feel tricky, or downright difficult, to separate specific areas of an image to work with. One technique that is useful in this situation is the Select Color Range tool (Select->Color Range). This tool works very well when trying to select skin and skies.

Select color range tool in processing black and white images.

Here, you can see what the Select Color Range tool will add to your selection when you click on the brightest part of the image and set the fuzziness slider to max.

Opening this tool will present you with a means to select a specific color range in your images that you can then apply to your layer masks. Because we are talking about processing black and white images, instead of selecting colors, you will be selecting a tonal range.

With the dialogue box open, simply click an area in your image that you want to select to work on. You can now use the slider labeled Fuzziness to adjust how much of the image within that range you wish to select. If you only want the very brightest highlights selected, click on the brightest part of your image and drag the fuzziness slider to the left. With the selection made, you can now create any adjustment layer and Photoshop will turn that selection into a layer mask.

Luminosity masks

For a far more complex option, you can use Luminosity masks.

There are a variety of ways to set these up inside Photoshop and with third-party plug-ins, so do be sure to research the various ways to go about it. Luminosity masks give you a ludicrous amount of fine control for processing your black and white images.

Luminosity masks in processing black and white images.

This is an example of what Luminosity Masks might look like when setting up in your images. I made the selection here with the ‘Light Lights’ mask. With all of these options to easily select specific tonal ranges, you should be able to see how powerful this is.

In brief, Luminosity masks grant you the ability to create layer masks for every tonal range in your image. They allow you independent control over the brightest of highlights, the darkest of shadows and everything in between. With this amount of control, you can fine-tune every part of your image to your heart’s content.

One word of warning though: leaving the Luminosity masks in your files results in very large file sizes. Consider deleting them before you save your images.

Tools for controlling tones

Now that you have a few options for selecting and isolating the various parts and tones of your images, there is a large selection of tools that you can use to manipulate the tonality (and other aspects) of your images.

Selective Color

The Selective Color adjustment layer is, probably, the easiest of these tools to get to grips with. Once you’ve created the layer, all that you have to do is find the drop-down box and choose either: whites, neutrals or blacks. (Because this article is discussing black and white images, you can discard all of the color options for now.)

Selective color in processing black and white images.

With the Selective Color tool, you have a fair degree of control over your highlights, mid-tones, and shadows. Just move the Black slider in the relevant box. This doesn’t give the amount of control that other methods do, but it’s quick and intuitive.

With any of those three options selected, find the slider labeled ‘Black’ at the bottom of the dialogue box. Dragging this slider to the right will darken the relevant tones. Dragging it to the left will lighten them. Do this with all three (whites, neutrals, blacks) for every part of your image, and you will have a great deal of control over the tonality of your images with very little effort.

As a bonus, if you’re still getting to grips with Layer Masks, the fact that the Selective Color tool adjust the highlights, mid-tones and Shadows independently within the dialogue box, means that you have a bit of local control over those three tonal ranges without having to use a layer mask at all.

Curves

The powerful Curves adjustment layer is another Photoshop staple that you should learn inside out early on.

By manipulating the curve in the dialogue box, you will gain absolute control over every minute aspect of contrast and tonal range in your image. Combine this tool with Layer Masks, and you have a solution that will get you through most situations.

Curves in processing black and white images.

Here you can see the image before I applied the Curves layer.

 

Curves in processing black and white images.

After applying the slightest of S curves, you can see just how much a difference was made to the image.

 

In terms of processing black and white images, the Curves tool will allow you to increase or reduce contrast as you see fit. Because it is a complicated tool with a lot of nuances (it will take a fair amount of time for you to get to grips with it beyond a simple S curve), do spend plenty of time practicing and reading up on how to get the most out of this tool.

Gradient Map

The Gradient Map tool is another complicated, but powerful, option for controlling the tones in your images. You can use the Gradient Map to do the actual conversion of your image to black and white, but that’s only the start. Note, that you can use the Gradient Map after you’ve done a conversion using any other method and that is what is being described here.

In the Gradient Editor (with the black and white gradient selected) you have a few options. Click on the slider at either side (the black or the white) and a mid-tone marker will appear. Dragging this left or right will adjust the position of the gradient and it will have a drastic effect on how the tones in your image appear.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

With the black and white gradient selected in the Gradient Editor, you can see that there has already been a huge increase in contrast.

If you click anywhere in the middle of the gradient in the gradient editor, it will add another marker that you can use to set the tonal point anywhere in the gradient. This also gives you new midpoint markers between these points. Using these tools, you can control the contrast in the various parts of your images’ tonality in one fell swoop.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

Circled in red, you can see the midpoint slider that will allow you to position the position of the gradient in terms of the tones in your image. Underlined, you can move these slider to control where the black and white point of the gradient starts. Move these inwards to increase contrast.

Combine these options with Layer Masks and you have yet another powerful tool that gives you complete control over how your final black and white images turn out.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

By adding a third point in the gradient, you can control the exact tone that appears. It also gives you two midpoint sliders to play with.

The end

Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

Alongside other retouching tools, using these tools (on their own or in concert with one another) can give you a great deal of fine control over your black and white images.

With these tools, you should see that you have a lot of options when it comes to processing black and white photos after the conversion process. By taking full control of the tonality of your black and white images, you will be able to create images with plenty of impact and fine-tuned contrast. It’s important to note that the concept of local adjustments applies to a lot more than tonality and you can use them for any type of adjustment you can think of in Photoshop. For example, you can sharpen an area of fine detail (like hair) in your image for emphasis without applying that to your subject’s skin.

Do you have any other tips for processing black and white images in Photoshop? If so, please share them with us in the comments. Also, please try these methods out and share your resulting images with us in the comments section.

The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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5 Tips for Becoming an Environmentally Conscious Photographer

15 Jan

The post 5 Tips for Becoming an Environmentally Conscious Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

environmentally-conscious-photographer-tips

Being an environmentally conscious photographer should be on all of our minds. The world is changing irreversibly as a result of human intervention, and we need to consider carefully the impact that we make.

Photography is a hobby that has traditionally not been kind to the environment. Manufacturing processes, film development, and the industry required to create digital cameras all take their toll on the planet. So to does travel by photographers seeking new subjects to photograph.

But it is possible to be a photographer and still be considerate of the environment, helping to preserve it for future generations.

environmentally conscious photographer

ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f11, 1/180th sec

See the beauty of your home area

Many of us photographers can be guilty of lusting after exotic locations.

We’re sold the dream that we’ll create photographs that are more special than we’ve ever shot before. But if we’re to be a more environmentally conscious photographer, cutting down on air travel is one of the biggest lifestyle changes we can make that will help the environment.

Image: ISO1600, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/2000th sec

ISO1600, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/2000th sec

The truth is, people on the other side of the globe will see your local area as exotic and photogenic because it’s something that they’ve not experienced before. It does take a little more effort on your part to imagine how a visitor might see the surroundings that you see every day, but that can be part of the challenge and joy of photography!

Every time you’re photographing locally, try and imagine it is the first time you’ve ever been there. Look for the small details that you might usually miss, and think about what would wow a visitor.

Consider if you really need an upgrade

I know – we all love a new piece of photography gear. But before you purchase an upgrade, consider if you really need something new. Manufacturing harms the environment because of the use of materials and chemical processes. So if you can delay that upgrade for a little while, you can ease the strain on our planet. Plus, how many megapixels do we really need anyway?

environmentally conscious photographer

ISO800, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f4.0, 1/320th sec

If you really do need to upgrade, consider how you can pass along your old gear to someone who will use it so that they don’t have to purchase from new. Either sell it to someone looking for their own upgrade or pass it along to a friend who is getting started in photography.

Both are better options for an environmentally conscious photographer than letting it languish unused on a shelf or ending up in a landfill site.

Work with local people

Many of us enjoy photographing people or getting lessons from experts. This often involves travel to visit models or the studios of photographers that are a considerable distance away.

Image: ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/500th sec

ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/500th sec

Instead of traveling these long distances, why not look at who is available locally that you could hire to photograph or learn from? You never know, you might discover a real gem in the process!

Perhaps even try taking online classes and shooting some self-portraits – you might even love the results!

And if you do really need to travel to someone or for them to travel to you, how about checking out public transport? It’s not feasible for every journey, but it does help to keep your environmental footprint to a minimum. You will have to learn to pack light, though!

Find a low-impact genre of photography

Really, it’s a bit like turning the lights off when you’re out of the room. If everybody did just a little bit towards helping the environment, we’d all make a big difference.

Image: ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f5, 1/160th sec

ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f5, 1/160th sec

With that in mind, imagine if all photographers found a kind of photography that they could do locally that had almost no environmental impact at all? It wouldn’t have to replace all of the photography they loved, but if it just replaced a little bit, and everyone did something similar, then it could make a huge difference.

Local street photography, tabletop still life, portraiture, and local architecture photography are all different genres that you can do with a minimum of equipment and environmental impact.

If you love still life, you could explore the local farmers market for new objects to photograph. Or how about photographing ‘local heroes’ if you’re more into portrait photography?

The opportunities are limitless for an environmentally conscious photographer, and they’re right on your doorstep. You don’t need to rack up the miles to create great images.

Be mindful when you do enjoy the countryside

If you are going out and about into nature to do photography, ensure that you’re knowledgeable about your surroundings. Be respectful of areas where animals and rare plant life might be living. Learn about the environment that you’re photographing and leave it clean and unbroken; this is what it means to be an environmentally conscious photographer.

environmentally conscious photographer

ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/140th sec

Perhaps even consider not sharing the location of incredible places you find with other photographers to prevent it from damage. Unfortunately, there will always be those who respect nature less than they should, leading to the damage of habitats that wildlife so desperately need in our world.

It’s about everyone doing their bit

The point is not to suck all of the fun out of photography. Not at all. But instead to raise awareness about the difference we could make.

Photography can be an activity that is very taxing on the environment in many different ways. The key is to be aware of this fact and then, as photographers, make different decisions about our purchasing, traveling, and photographing habits.

environmentally conscious photographer

ISO200, 140mm (200mm equiv.), f3.2, 1/110th sec

After all, what good is a box full of photographs of beautiful sights, if we have damaged those sights beyond all recognition? It would mean that future generations could not enjoy peaceful moments with their cameras in the same way that we have done.

So I urge you to think about your approach to photography and consider if you can lessen your impact on the environment while learning more about it. And then see if you can persuade others to follow your example. That way, we can all work together, as environmentally conscious photographers, to help preserve our world for the future.

Do you have any other tips you would like to share on becoming an environmentally conscious photographer? Please do so in the comments!

The post 5 Tips for Becoming an Environmentally Conscious Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


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Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review

15 Jan

The post Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

One of the reasons why I moved from DSLRs to the Fujifilm X-Series system a few years ago was because of the smaller, lighter camera bodies and lenses. So given that, it seems odd that I added the monster Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens to my kit. 

fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens mounted on a tripod – it’s pretty big.

At the time of its release in 2016, this was the biggest and heaviest line in the X-Series by far, being eclipsed in terms of size and weight only by the XF 200mm F2 R LM OIS WR lens in 2019. 

So given its hefty size (and price tag), you might well wonder why I bought it? It’s really quite simple: I love telephoto lenses! 

Given the option of a telephoto or an ultra-wide angle, I’d choose the telephoto every time. I love how you can pick out details of a scene with a telephoto to fill the frame. I also love how a telephoto lens gives the impression of “flattening” scenes – making faraway objects look close together. 

Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens review

In this review, I list the specifications of the 100-400mm lens, examine its build quality, handling, and optical performance, as well as discussing what it’s like to use and who would benefit from having it in their kit. 

Image: This shot wouldn’t have been possible without a telephoto lens. I took a whole series of imag...

This shot wouldn’t have been possible without a telephoto lens. I took a whole series of images of this cheeky guy sitting on top of a sunflower in Southern Queensland.

Specifications

The specifications of the Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens are truly impressive. Let’s have a look at what all those numbers and letters mean. 

Fujinon is the brand name that Fujifilm use for their excellent lenses. XF denotes the high-performing lenses in the X-Series line-up. There is also a range of cheaper, yet very good value for money lenses with the letters XC on them. 

fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

The Manly Ferry gliding along Sydney Harbour in the morning. This ferry was a long way away. The reach of this lens is incredible.

The next set of letters and numbers denotes the focal range of the lens: 100-400mm. As the X-Series bodies have APS-C sensors with a 1.5 crop factor, this gives the lens a full-frame equivalent focal range of approximately 150mm to 600mm. This is not just a telephoto zoom; this is a super-telephoto zoom.

The next bit of information refers to the variable aperture of the lens: f/4.5-5.6. Like many zooms, the maximum aperture increases as you zoom in. At 100mm, the maximum aperture is f/4.5, at 200mm, it’s f/5, at 300mm, it’s f/5.2, and at 400mm, it’s f/5.6.

The R denotes that, like the vast majority of X-Series lenses, it has a ring to control aperture on the lens barrel. This is a feature that I love so much. I’m so used to changing the aperture on the lens now, I’m not sure I could move back to a system where I couldn’t do that. 

LM stands for linear motor – this ensures high speed autofocusing, quiet operation, and low power consumption. OIS stands for optical image stabilization – the linear motor checks for camera shake 8000 times a second. Fujifilm claims that the lens has a five-stop image stabilization system for shake-free results. 

Image: Early morning on Sydney Harbour. I love how you can pick elements out of a scene and fill the...

Early morning on Sydney Harbour. I love how you can pick elements out of a scene and fill the frame with a telephoto lens.

WR stands for weather resistance. Paired with a WR body such as the Fujifilm X-T2 or X-T3, you can be confident using your kit in extreme environments where water and dust is an issue. You can use this lens in temperatures as low as -10°C. There’s a water-resistant fluorine coating applied to the front lens element, making it less susceptible to smudges and easier to clean. 

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Wallabies at Mt Cotton, Queensland.

Build

The build quality of this lens is very good, though it doesn’t feel quite in the same class as the other Fujinon red badge zoom lenses (the XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR lens and the XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR lens). 

This is probably because the superzoom is made of high-grade plastic rather than metal. I’m guessing that an all-metal barrel would’ve made the lens too heavy, so you can understand the choice here. 

Only the mounting ring and tripod collar are metal. You can easily remove the tripod collar if you don’t need it. The lens hood is plastic but features a filter door, which allows you to rotate a circular polarizing filter, for example. 

Image: I love how telephoto lenses make faraway objects look close together. Mountain ranges on the...

I love how telephoto lenses make faraway objects look close together. Mountain ranges on the Queensland/New South Wales border in Australia.

The lens weighs 1.375kg and takes 77mm filters. It’s compatible with both the 1.4x and 2.0x X-Series teleconverters, giving you the potential to shoot at up to 852mm and 1218mm in full-frame equivalent terms. However, this comes at the cost of 1 and 2 stops of light, respectively. 

Handling

Okay, so this lens is big…so big that it makes the 50-140 look compact, and most other lenses in the X-Series line up look tiny. The first time you pick it up, it does feel bulky but compared to many other lenses of this focal range, it’s definitely on the lighter side. 

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Yep, it’s a whopper! Yet it’s still possible to hold the lens in one hand with relative comfort. I have the lens extended to 400mm here.

The length of the lens, especially when zoomed in, is quite large, and it dwarfs the size of the camera body. Yet there is a surprisingly comfortable balance when shooting with it. In fact, the lens feels lighter in my hands than it does when I carry it around in my backpack.

The zoom action is very smooth – you can move the entire range easily while supporting the weight of the lens. Like almost every other X-Series lens, there is a ring around the lens that changes aperture in third stop clicks. The variable aperture of this zoom means there are no aperture markings around the barrel like the 50-140 or any of the prime lenses. Instead, you need to check aperture in the viewfinder or LCD. 

There are three switches down the side of the lens. The first is a switch that controls the range of the zoom. The two options are for full range (1.75m to infinity) and 5 meters to infinity. The latter allows for faster focusing. 

The next switch down is for controlling the aperture manually or automatically – something that all Fujifilm zoom lenses have. 

fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

The three switches on the side of the 100-400mm lens.

The third switch is to turn optical image stabilization (OIS) on or off. OIS is a godsend for handheld shooting: the lens is capable of taking some incredibly sharp images at relatively low shutter speeds. Typically, you would turn OIS off when the lens is in use on a tripod, but you may want to experiment with this. 

For example, when I was taking photos of the Sydney Opera House at the Vivid Festival, I was shooting from the footpath on the Cahill Expressway. There were minute vibrations from the traffic, so I felt that I was getting better images with OIS turned on. 

Further up the lens barrel, there is a lock switch which will prevent lens creep as it stops the lens moving past 100mm. 

Image: OIS is a godsend, sometimes even when shooting on a tripod. Sydney Opera House during Vivid F...

OIS is a godsend, sometimes even when shooting on a tripod. Sydney Opera House during Vivid Festival.

Image quality

Fujifilm is one of the world’s best lens makers, so as you’d expect, the optical quality of this lens is excellent. It’s capable of producing stunning images across the focal range. However, I did get the feeling my images zoomed all the way in at 400mm were not quite as sharp as those taken towards the wider end of the zoom. 

Image: I took the lens to a local speedway and was impressed with the results.

I took the lens to a local speedway and was impressed with the results.

Shooting handheld, the lens feels nicely balanced. I’ve used it for cityscapes, sports, wildlife and landscapes. Autofocus is very good, especially when used in conjunction with the X-T2 or X-T3’s continuous focus and tracking options. 

When I first got the lens, I took it to a local speedway to test out. Given that it was the first time I’d shot motorsports, I was very impressed with the images I took with this lens. It has a cool feature when it detects panning: it automatically switches camera shake correction to the vertical plane only. 

The lens also has a very pleasing bokeh. While I’ve never used it for portraits, with many of my wildlife photos, the out-of-focus areas in the background look beautiful and don’t detract from the images. 

fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

Sunflowers in Southern Queensland. I love the bokeh that this lens produces.

Conclusion

If you love a superzoom, there is only one option with the Fujifilm X-Series at the moment, and what a choice it is: the Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens.

Suited to wildlife and sports shooters primarily, the lens can also be used by landscape and cityscape photographers. The lens has a fantastic range of features, including weather resistance and OIS. It is relatively light for a lens with this range and has excellent optics. 

Image: A superzoom gives you the option of shooting sports you wouldn’t be able to with a shorter zo...

A superzoom gives you the option of shooting sports you wouldn’t be able to with a shorter zoom.

Overall, I would say that the lens is good value for money, though perhaps not as good as other lenses in the X-Series line-up. The price of the lens has stayed steady since its release. However, you can sometimes get discounts or cashback offers, substantially bringing down the cost. 

I have no hesitation recommending the Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens. Just writing the review and looking at the photos it produces makes me want to get out and use it right now. 

The post Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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