Category: Photography

  • Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

    The post Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

    lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

    Photography can be mischaracterized as a “safe” medium. More often than not, photographs are geared towards improving the way we view the world and ourselves. Generally speaking, photography appeals to the lighter side of our senses. Whether it’s the calm aesthetics of a serene landscape or a hauntingly sublime portrait of an elegant model, when we think of photography, we immediately think about all the ways it can make the world seem more beautiful and more safe.

    Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

    But the world isn’t always beautiful. The world isn’t always the safe and secure menagerie of perfection we often see displayed in the photographs on social media and other corners of the internet. For all its effectual nature, photography, which displays only the conventionally pristine faces of our world, is at best, a blissful half-truth and at worse, blatant hypocrisy. We are surrounded by uncomfortable realities that are easier ignored than embraced or even acknowledged.

    This leads me to the work and life of a photographer who is surrounded by as much controversy as she is by her works enigmatic magnetism. In this edition of “Lessons from the Masters,” we take a close look at the photography of Sally Mann. We see why and how she has become such an oddly iconic herald of the merits of unconventional photographic content.

    Mann’s photographs epitomize the harsh internal conflicts we all face in our work and our lives as we walk the fine line between tactful self-expression and creative freedom. We’re going to find out what lessons we can learn and apply (or avoid) to grow as photographers.

    Who is Sally Mann?

    lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

    Photo: Michelle Hood [CC BY-SA 3.0]

    In 1951, the girl who becomes Sally Mann was born in the small southern town of Lexington, Virginia where she still lives today.

    Her path to photography was first facilitated through her physician father (also an artist) with whom Sally would have an admittedly complex relationship throughout her life. She holds a BA and an MA in creative writing from Hollins University in Virginia. It is remarkable to note that Sally Mann has never formally trained in the craft of photography.

    Although she has produced work across all photographic mediums, she gravitates toward photographing things closest to her home in the southern United States. The large body of her photographs centers around the investigation of death, sensuality, history, childhood, and the visceral (often painful) realities of life.

    Many of her most known photos are products of antiquated photographic techniques such as wet plate collodion. She captures these using an antique 8×10 view camera with equally-aged lenses. Incidentally, this type of photography plays an enormous role in one of the most important lessons we will learn from Mann.

    Sally Mann has published numerous books of her photographs as well as produced multiple major exhibitions and is a Guggenheim fellow. She has been the subject of two documentary films with one nominated for an Academy Award and the other an Emmy.

    In 2001, Mann was named “America’s Best Photographer” by Times magazine.

    The following two images are from Sally Mann’s A Thousand Crossings exhibition.

     

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    “Deep South, Untitled (Concrete Grave)”, (1998) Gelatin silver print . . . . . . #sallymann #athousandcrossings #gelatinsilverprint #analogphotography #blackandwhite #photography #print #darkroom #highmuseumofart #ngadc #peabodyessexmuseum

    A post shared by A Thousand Crossings (@a_thousand_crossings) on

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    “Untitled (Self-Portrait)”, (2006- 2012) Grid of nine ambrotypes. . . . . . . #sallymann #athousandcrossings #analog #photography #ambrotype #glass #plate #negative #ambrotypephotography #analogphotography #selfportrait #process

    A post shared by A Thousand Crossings (@a_thousand_crossings) on

    Now, let’s look at some lessons we can learn from Sally Mann.

    Photographic opportunities are everywhere

    We are fortunate today as photographers in that we can make photographs at literally any time. Through the progression of photographic techniques, our cameras have become smaller, cheaper, and generally more qualitative than ever before.

    And yet, we sometimes find ourselves at a loss for what to photograph.

    Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

    I’ll admit, I’m guilty of this mental photo block myself. Sometimes we can convince ourselves that we need to “go somewhere” to make photos. It’s easy to forget that it’s not necessarily the location or the subject matter that makes for a great photo. Instead, it’s how we inject our own creativity into the making of the photo that truly matters.

    In the case of Sally Mann, the majority of her work takes place on and around her property, with concentrations on simple subject matter.

    The lesson:

    The next time you feel like there’s nothing to photograph, remember to look a little deeper at the things surrounding you at any given moment. Light transforms textures and can produce incredibly dynamic compositions from even the most common subjects.

    As a measure of solidarity, I made three photos using my cell phone here in the room where I’m currently writing. They are incredibly basic objects: my hand, a spoon, and a book, with the entire process only consuming about ten minutes. I made all of these using available window light and then quickly processed them in Adobe Lightroom Mobile.

    Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

    Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

    Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann

    Much like Ed Weston and his simplistic photos of common objects, Sally Mann teaches us that it can pay to look deeper at the things we encounter every day.

    Embrace the flaws

    Nothing is or ever will be perfect, especially our photographs. Coming to terms with the truth that perfection is unattainable is a constant difficulty that we all must face as photographers. Sally Mann takes this one step further by actively welcoming flaws and imperfections into her work.

    Many of Mann’s most iconic works carry a measure of impurity, which somehow lends itself to completing the total impact of the photo.

    lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

    From one of my own photo projects. A sheet of 4×5 film shot in the Mojave desert and developed from the back of my car. Complete with dirt, scratches and water spots.

    Sally Mann refers to this mercurial facet of her work as the “angel of uncertainty” in reference to the somewhat unpredictable nature of the photographic processes she employs. It’s this complete surrender to the happenstances of the work that gives Sally Mann’s photos their unique qualities.

    The lesson:

    Try to strike a balance between proficiency and cautioned spontaneity when you make your photographs. Keep in mind that a “perfect” photo doesn’t exist and try not to become so preoccupied with your technique that the creative nature of your work suffers.

    Allow yourself to be yourself, and that will shine through in your photos. Welcome all the little intricacies and glitches, which come along with making photographs, and you will likely find more enjoyment from the images you make.

    Recognize the power of photography

    As much as Sally Mann’s work is revered by some it is reviled by others. Her expressions of death, decay and especially her highly controversial images of her children have made here somewhat of a polarized figure. It speaks to the incredible power held within photographs which can move people in a multitude of directions.

    lessons-from-the-masters-sally-mann

    Photo by Adam Welch

    The lesson:

    Photography is not just a two-dimensional art form. The power of photography can transcend the medium itself with many legendary photos serving as a model for social and environmental change.

    To that end, we must always remember that our work can affect our viewers on levels we might not fully comprehend.

    It’s true that we can impact the lives of those who see our photos in a positive way. Yet, it is also true that our photos can have the opposite effect and can potentially cause pain. In the case of Sally Mann, the public reception may include entirely different attitudes than was originally intended.

    In closing…

    No matter if you’re a professional or hobbyist, being a photographer today means constant reminders that our photographs could always be better. If we only had this or that piece of gear, or maybe if we travel to this place or that, our images will somehow finally reach that magical Nirvana we always hoped they could achieve.

    And then we have Sally Mann – a photographer that has managed to become arguably one of the most influential photo makers of the last fifty years.

    She seems to defy the conventions of today’s photographic climate by shooting close to and in her home using tools and techniques that are more than a century old.

    Her work is famous – and at times, infamous.

    In fact, many of her more notable works can’t even be shown within this article. Yet, the work of Sally Mann reminds us all that we are making photographs with similar intentions; to express ourselves using whatever means satisfy us most.

    Perhaps the greatest lesson we can learn from Sally Mann is that we all share a common complexity best translated through photographs in the absence of words. That somehow we find perfection through imperfection, and that we are all mortal.

    You may also like:

    • Lessons you can learn from master photographers – Minor White, Ansel Adams, and Syl Arena
    • More Lessons from the Photography Masters: David Burnett and Vivian Maier
    • Lessons from the Masters: Robert Capa and Jerry Uelsmann
    • Lessons from the Masters: Morley Baer
    • Lessons from the Masters: Imogen Cunningham

     

    The post Lessons from the Masters: Sally Mann appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


    Digital Photography School

  • Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography

    The post Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    creative-photography-exercises

    Every photographer can feel stuck at some point. I find this often happens when you have learned all the technical basics, and it’s time for you to start finding your way. Is this you? Here are some creative photography exercises than can help you shake things up. Keep on reading to see how setting limitations can help you to achieve better photography.

    Creative photography exercises

    Have you ever been to a restaurant that has a huge menu but you can’t decide what to order? The same thing can happen with your photography. Having the ability to photograph anything can seem daunting. That’s why setting limits before you start shooting can help you focus.

    Creative photography exercises

    You can set a limit regarding the idea or project you want. In this photo, I decided to limit my idea to fruits as a topic. You can also limit the tools and techniques that you can use – for example, using long exposure times. Here are some creative photography exercises to get you started.

    Technical Limitations

    Use only one focal length

    As you probably know, there are zoom lenses and prime lenses. A zoom lens means that you can change your angle of view in seconds, which gives you great versatility. A prime lens has a fixed focal length, and this will force you to move around and re-compose your images.

    Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography

    If you don’t have a prime lens, use your zoom but choose a focal length and stick with it for the entire exercise. Here I used an 18-55mm and put some tape as a reference on 40mm. This doesn’t mean that you can’t use both lenses, it’s just a way for you to practice without buying new gear.

    Think in terms of film photography

    Pretend you’re using a film camera and set yourself a limit of 12, 24 or 36 images that you can use. I suggest these numbers because film rolls were sold like that, but feel free to set a different limit without overdoing it. This will push you to put more thought into the final image before you press the shutter button.

    Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography

    If you want to make it more challenging, try only using the viewfinder and not reviewing your images after shooting. Not having the chance to delete images in order to stay within the maximum amount gives you that extra push.

    Project Limitations

    Ride the bus

    This is a fun project because you can approach it in many different ways. For example, you can choose to photograph the street while riding the bus or the metro. This takes away much of your control over the scene in front of you. You also have to deal with motion and reflections. And most of all, you have to react quick before you’re gone.

    Creative photography exercises

    You can also choose to photograph the inside of the vehicle. This is very close quarters so it will help you to overcome shyness. It is also challenging to compose and focus on short distances. So you may want to explore a wide-angle lens if you want to capture the full scene. The light probably won’t be very bright so you may need to bump up your ISO. Combined with the fact that you’re moving, you may find it challenging, but give it a try!

    Always shoot at the same time

    Program an alarm on your phone to remind you to take a picture exactly at the same time every day. If you have a routinary life, it will challenge you to shoot the same thing or place differently. If you have a flexible schedule, and the time, you will find yourself in different places, where you’ll have to deal with a variety of challenges each time.

    Creative photography exercises

    Either way, it will kick start your creativity. This image, for example, is only the heater from my studio. Try looking for different angles, play with lighting, etc.

    Conclusion

    These are just some ideas for creative photography exercises. Feel free to create your own according to your interest, gear and even the place you live. You just need to follow the same rule of establishing some guidelines as limitations to strengthen your abilities and creativity. I’ll leave you here some other articles that can give you more ideas:

    • Expand Your Creativity by Taking Self-Portraits.
    • An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake.
    • How to Boost Your Creativity by Including Props in Your Photography.
    • How to Reboot Your Creativity with 15-Minute Exercises.

    Feel free to share any other creative photography exercises in the comments. And, as always, we love to see your images, so try some of these techniques, and share your images below.

    The post Creative Photography Exercises: Setting Limitations to Achieve Better Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


    Digital Photography School

  • News: Could This Sea-Thru Algorithm Be the Future of Underwater Photography?

    The post News: Could This Sea-Thru Algorithm Be the Future of Underwater Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Image: Photo by James Thornton via Unsplash.

    Photo by James Thornton via Unsplash.

    Underwater photographers may soon have a way of “removing water” from their photos, based on research done by Derya Akkaynak and Tali Treibitz at the University of Haifa (read report here).

    As explained by Akkaynak and Treibitz, “An underwater photo is the equivalent of one taken in air, but covered in thick, colored fog.” And while the precise effects of water on images is somewhat technical, it doesn’t take much to recognize that water degrades images, causing a loss of both clarity and accurate color.

    Enter Akkaynak’s Sea-thru algorithm, which is designed to remove color casts and other optical problems created by water. In other words, it can be applied to an underwater photo, one that’s blue (with inaccurate colors), and turn it into something that looks like it was taken on land.

    For examples, check out the images in the Scientific American video:

    ??

    How it works

    But how was the algorithm actually developed, and how does it work?

    Basically, Akkaynak took a series of underwater photos, making sure to place her color chart into the scene for an accurate reference. She ultimately compiled over a thousand images in several environments. From the reference images, Akkaynak and Treibitz developed a model that takes into account the unique ways that light interacts with water in order to correct underwater images for color and light.

    Now, Akkaynak and Treibitz had academic purposes in mind when they conducted this research. The algorithm, as presented in the original research paper, is meant to “help boost underwater research at a time when our oceans are increasing stress from pollution, overfishing, and climate change,” by giving researchers better access to visual data from underwater cameras.

    But it’s easy to see how the Sea-thru algorithm could be relevant to underwater photographers everywhere. If Sea-thru can make photos become more accurate and (often) more vivid and colorful, might underwater photographers like to use it on their own images?

    On the other hand, there’s the question of whether the best underwater photos convey an authentic sense of the (underwater) environment. Without the blue tones of water and the haze that water provides, photos may lose the sense of wonder that comes from doing work under the sea.

    So let me ask you: Do you prefer underwater images where the water is much less apparent? Or do you like more authentic underwater photos, color cast and all? Would you be interested in the Sea-thru software?

    Share your thoughts in the comments!

    The post News: Could This Sea-Thru Algorithm Be the Future of Underwater Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

    The post Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    reflections-in-photoshop

    Attractive reflections can be challenging to capture naturally in your photographs. Sometimes it’s easier to create reflections in Photoshop. You will have more control over how the photo looks and you can avoid the difficulties that photographing reflections can bring.

    Often you can’t find just the right place to stand to catch the best reflection. Sometimes the light is wrong and a natural reflection will look too dark. Choosing to make reflections in Photoshop gives you much more flexibility to get the look you want.

    It’s really not that difficult to do. In this article, I’ll walk you through a series of steps you can use to make a mirror image in Photoshop.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Step 1: Selecting your photo

    When making reflections in Photoshop, it’s important to start out by choosing a photo that’s suitable. Not every photo will look good or natural when you make a mirror image of it.

    When you’re looking for a photo to use with this technique, think about how it will look. You ideally want to use a photo where the main subject has a distinct line along where the reflection will appear.

    Open your photo in Photoshop. You may need to crop the bottom of the photo to create a clean line where the reflection can be placed.

    Step 2: Adjust the canvas size

    You need to adjust the canvas size to make room for the reflection you will create.

    Go to the top menu and select Image->Canvas Size. In the pop-up that appears in the box next to the Height option, click the drop-down and choose Percent. Make the Height percentage 200.

    Click the top center of the Anchor options grid. This will force the new canvas space you are creating to appear underneath your photo.

    Click OK.

    Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

    Step 3: Duplicate the layer

    In the Layers panel, unlock the base layer. To do this, click on the padlock icon. Now you can duplicate this layer by going to the top menu and selecting Layer->New->Layer Via Copy.

    Convert both the layers to Smart Objects by right-clicking on each of them and selecting Convert To Smart Object. Now rename both layers to make it easier to keep track of which one is which.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    Step 4: Position the new layer

    Drag the new layer to the space you created under your main image.

    Now you need to flip the lower layer. This will be your reflection. From the top menu select Edit->Transform->Flip Vertical and press Enter.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    Step 5: Add blur to the reflection layer

    With your reflection layer selected, from the top menu select Filter->Blur->Motion Blur. Set the Angle to 90-degrees and use the Distance slider to add a suitable amount of blur. How much you add is up to you and will vary depending on the resolution of the photo you are working with. In my example, I have set it to 30.

    You may need to reposition your reflection layer by nudging it up slightly if a gap has appeared between your two layers.

    Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

    Step 6: Make a new file

    Duplicate your file by going to the top menu and selecting Image->Duplicate. Crop the image so you are left only with the reflection.

    Delete one layer so you are left with a blank canvas. Resize the canvas to 30%, otherwise, it will be too big to manage easily. Select the paint bucket and fill the image with black.

    This file you have created will be added to the reflection layer to make it look more realistic like water.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    Step 7: Add blur and noise for texture

    From the top menu select Filter->Noise->Add Noise. Make the amount 350% and check the boxes Uniform and Monochromatic. Click OK.

    Now add some blur. Select Filter->Blur->Gaussian Blur from the top menu and set the Radius to 1.5 pixels and click OK.

    Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

    Step 8: Emboss your texture

    In the Channels panel click on the Red channel.

    Next, go to the top menu again and select Filter->Stylize->Emboss. Set the Angle to 90, the Height to 5, and the Amount to 500. Of course, you can experiment with any of these amounts. Click OK.

    Now select the Green channel and Filter->Stylize->Emboss from the top menu. Set the Angle to 0, the Height to 5, and the Amount to 500. Click OK.

    Turn on all the channels by clicking RGB. Go back to your Layers Panel, right-click the layer and Convert To Smart Object.

    Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

    Step 9: Stretch the perspective of the distortion

    Select Edit->Free Transform from the top menu. Right-click inside the image and select Perspective. Make sure you are zoomed out a long way so your image is small in the center of your monitor.

    Click on one of the bottom corners of the frame and drag it out horizontally. This will stretch and distort the lower part of the texture. Don’t worry if it looks weird, once you incorporate it into your reflection it will make it look more natural.

    Zoom back to 100%. Save this image as a .PSD where you can find it easily and name it something recognizable.

    Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide)

    Step 10: Make an adjustment layer on your main image

    Click on the reflection layer on your main image and duplicate it by pressing Ctrl (Cmd)+j on your keyboard. Name it “Reflection Copy.” With the new layer selected (which should be above the other reflection layer), from the top menu, choose Filter->Distort->Displace. Set the vertical and horizontal scales to about 10.

    You may need to alter these if it does not look good, depending on your image size and resolution. Click OK.

    From the window that opens, find and select the distortion image you just created and saved. This will use the texture image as a displacement layer. If the ripple effect is too large or too small, undo that step. Redo the step again, but this time choose a higher or lower number for the displacement scale.

    Experiment with this until you are satisfied with the way it looks. It’s entirely up to your taste.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    Step 11: Adjust the reflection

    With your Reflection Copy layer selected, click on the layer mask icon, which is at the bottom of the Layers Panel. Select the Brush tool with the color set to Black and a large brush size and Hardness of 0%.

    From the options panel above your image, set the brush opacity to 20%. Select your layer mask, not the main reflection layer. Paint from side to side over the top half of your reflection layer, where it meets the top layer until it looks natural.

    What you are doing is erasing 20% of the distortion each time you paint. You want to make the reflection look smoother in what appears to be the distance.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    Step 12: Merge the reflection layers

    Select both the reflection layers in the Layers Panel. Right-click on one of them and select Merge Layers. Make sure your main image is not selected. You should now have one reflection layer and your main layer.

    Step 13: Darken the reflection

    With the reflection layer selected, go to your top menu and choose Image->Adjustments->Curves. Click in the middle of the curves adjustment line and drag it down to darken the reflection. Adjust it until it looks natural. A reflection in water is typically darker than the scene it’s reflecting.

    Reflections in Photoshop

    Conclusion

    Follow through these steps a few times and experiment with the variables. There is no right or wrong way to do this. Your personal preference and the photos you choose will determine the outcome.

    You will find reflections in Photoshop look better on some images than on others.

    Try out this technique for making reflections in Photoshop, and share your images with us in the comments below!

    The post Create Awesome Reflections in Photoshop with Ease (Step-by-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


    Digital Photography School

  • Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn’t Get Any Better

    The post Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn’t Get Any Better appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

    photographing-on-overcast-days

    Lighting is everything in photography, but some “poor” conditions may surprise you. Am I alone here? Does anybody else get excited about photographing on overcast days?

    I use to think I was a contrast junkie, but I discovered that my passion is for detail, more of an internal contrast issue than one of overall contrast. Internal contrast (the clear distinction between tones inside the extremes of white and black) is what delivers the distinctions we call detail.

    Hot highlights and deep shadows

    Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

    When you consider the dynamic range of most digital camera image sensors, typical bright sunny days can present two challenges right off the bat: hot highlights and deep shadows. When the highlights in the original image are very hot, and the shadows are very deep, extracting detail in the “near shadows” and “near highlights” turns into an editing issue.

    This is why photographing on overcast days is the easiest lighting condition to deal with.

    photographing-on-overcast-days

    The holy grail of photographic exposure range is located well within those bookend extremes. On a typical Florida day, with the Sun blaring on a scene, the trick is to keep the quarter, middle, and three-quarter tones ideally balanced in order to capture critical detail.

    With highlights too “hot,” the inevitable shadows cast by the tropical Sun tends to push critical three-quarter tones (shadow detail) into the mud. Shooting in RAW mode allows most images to recover all but the most severe edges of dark and light, though it can take a careful adjustment to do so.

    Filtering effect of clouds

    Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

    When photographing on overcast days, the filtering effect of clouds mellows the Sun’s harsh light, revealing significant quarter tones (highlight detail).

    The wonderful byproduct of this softer “diffused” light is softer shadows, which in turn deliver more shadow detail.

    It is much easier to boost the highlights and deepen the shadows with a little help from overcast weather. On very sunny days, you might have to use a reflector or fill flash to open up the shadows, but on cloudy days, they’re already open! This natural diffuser renders rich colors and a full range of tones from the deepest shadows to the lightest highlights.

    This lighting is the ideal time to press your 18% gray card into action.

    Gray card

    photographing-on-overcast-days

    There is a reason why photographers like to balance their lighting around an 18% gray card. That 18% value just happens to be the same reflective value as average Caucasian skin color. And that value is the sweet spot of all photographic exposure.

    Your camera’s image sensor is tuned to record skin tones in the very center of the contrast range. Image sensors do their best work when you point them at this reflective value. Once the camera knows this value, the lighter and darker tones fall quite naturally in line. And when the outdoor lighting falls neatly within the camera sensor’s “cruising range” (with headroom on either side of the scene’s histogram), that my friends, delivers top drawer results.

    Photographing on overcast days may well become your favorite lighting.

    Middle tone emphasis

    Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

    Don’t be afraid to put the scene’s tones well within the middle of the histogram.

    There is no hard, fast rule that says that every image has to contain extreme highlights or near-black shadows. Real-life simply doesn’t appear that way to your eyes. Not even high-key photography mandates that the lightest tones must be extremely bright. Some of the most moving photos are nearly void of overall contrast.

    Don’t fall into the trap of “optimizing” every photo’s range so that it produces bright highlights and deep shadows. Allow nature to dictate the visual mood. Realistically speaking, the only thing in nature that is truly “black” is the inside of a cave at midnight. The only thing pure “white” is a direct view of the Sun at noon.

    Auto levels

    photographing-on-overcast-days

    It’s okay to have highlights that aren’t pegged up against the right side of the histogram. Please think twice before you hit the dreaded Auto button in the Levels dialog of Photoshop. That kind of cookie-cutter photography should be left to those who don’t know any better. Let the scene set the mood and simply convey what you experienced.

    Occasionally, dynamic adjustments within software applications tempt us to automatically force nature into conditions that aren’t natural.

    White balance

    photographing-on-overcast-days

    The next time you find yourself in the shadow-free lighting of a clouded sky, go and get your camera. Great color (and fabulous black and white) photography is there for the taking. However, do keep in mind that outdoor shots under cloud cover will appear slightly bluish because those clouds are absorbing the shorter wavelengths.

    Set your camera’s white balance to Overcast or Cloudy. This setting will compensate for the bluishness of the scene. If you are using a gray card and have the time to set a situational white balance, you can zero in on the color even more accurately.

    Conclusion

    Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn't Get Any Better

    Next time you shoot outdoors in overcast weather, search the scene for something interesting and unique, something that will bring a smile to your face. I’ve found that I find whatever I’m looking for in life, and that includes dismal weather. There is a bright spot in just about every situation if you keep your eyes (and your mind) open.

    I hope this inspires you to look forward to photographing on overcast days. These special days deliver great natural lighting and provide many opportunities to see a different side of life.

    Do you photograph on overcast days? What are your thoughts? Share with us in the comments!

    The post Photographing on Overcast Days: The Light Simply Doesn’t Get Any Better appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Use an Art Gallery Visit to Inspire Your Photography

    The post How to Use an Art Gallery Visit to Inspire Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

    art-gallery-visit-inspire-photography

    We’ve almost all done it. We’ve gone to an art gallery to look for inspiration for our photographic work and ended up just snapping some pictures of paintings we like on our phones for later reference.

    How to Use an Art Gallery Visit to Inspire Your Photography

    While that is one way to approach the task of finding inspiration for photography in art galleries, there are other ways that you might find more success.

    In this article, I’m going to explore some different ways that you can use an art gallery to find inspiration for your photography. And they’ll all result in a more original result than if you just photograph the actual work of art itself.

    Visiting a gallery

    When you visit an art gallery, make sure you allow yourself enough time. Ideally, set aside a whole morning or afternoon for a larger gallery.

    When going to a new gallery that I’ve never been to before, I love to take a trip around the whole thing. Then I go back and visit rooms or artworks that I loved to see them in more detail. At very large galleries or museums, you might want to look on the floor plan ahead of time and identify a smaller section to see on that visit.

    How to Use an Art Gallery Visit to Inspire Your Photography

    After you’ve viewed works of art for an hour or so, take time to visit the cafe and relax a bit. This will give you time to think about what you’ve enjoyed so far. Use this time to make some notes if you want to.

    Of course, it’s not possible for everyone to visit a gallery, or to do so regularly. Instead, perhaps ‘visit’ the online archive of a museum or gallery on their website. Some museums and galleries offer themed collections that you can browse. Others have lists of the artwork in each room so that you can ‘tour’ it virtually!

    Take a sketchbook

    So many photographers don’t use a sketchbook, but I think they’re vital to inspiration-gathering. You don’t have to be good at drawing to use a sketchbook. My sketching abilities extend to a fraction more than stick figures. But it isn’t your drawing ability that counts; your sketchbook will just be a place to record ideas for your own reference.

    art-gallery-visit-inspire-photography

    As you make your way around the different rooms of the art gallery, stop in front of any work that catches your eye. Ask yourself why that piece of art caught your attention. Perhaps it was the:

    • pose
    • colors
    • concept
    • composition

    This approach for finding inspiration is applicable to all types of photography. You could be interested in still life, landscapes, architecture, or any other kinds of photography!

    Record what you see

    Take out your sketchbook and record those thoughts. Draw a sketch of the pose or the composition. It doesn’t have to be an elaborate or detailed sketch. Just a thumbnail to serve as an aide-memoire in the future when you’re planning shoots.

    If it was the concept or the colors that caught your eye then make a note of them. Write down the things that you particularly liked about it. Perhaps pink roses against a blue background seemed particular striking for you. Or maybe a bright blue gown gave you ideas for something in the future.

    Image: These six thumbnail sketches were done at the Tate Modern in London to record down quick idea...

    These six thumbnail sketches were done at the Tate Modern in London to record down quick ideas of pose and composition.

    It might not even be important to you to record the name of the artwork or the artist. If it’s just a pose you like, then who cares who originally painted the picture?

    This approach is nothing new in the art world. The eighteenth-century British painter, Sir Joshua Reynolds, allegedly had a book where he would sketch down poses that other painters had used. When you commissioned him to paint your portrait, you could pick your pose from the book!

    When you come to create new photographs, go back and look at your sketchbook. Pull together your ideas from these notes, and you’ll soon find yourself with some interesting inspiration for your photography that doesn’t rely heavily on a single source.

    Taking inspiration from single works of art

    If there’s a particular artwork that you love then start to analyze that piece and see what it really is that you love about it. You might surprise yourself.

    art-gallery-visit-inspire-photography

    Researching Van Gogh’s paintings of sunflowers revealed themes of hope and gratitude as well as life and death. I created my own interpretation which I wrote about here.

    I always start with a blank page in my notebook, where I sketch out the pose or composition of the work of art. Then I identify different elements. Perhaps the colors that seem particularly strong, the mood of the image, or the concept. There might be a key prop or costume piece that I like, and I’ll note that down too.

    Try doing the same and then use that information, rather than the original artwork, to shape the photoshoot you have planned. You’ll almost certainly find that your ideas take on a life of their own that is quite different from the original piece of inspiration.

    Taking inspiration from a whole exhibition

    It can be an interesting creative exercise to take inspiration from a whole exhibition rather than a single artwork. And it often results in the creation of some very different photographs that don’t resemble the exhibition at all!

    See the exhibition and, again, take out your notebook or sketchbook. Write down the themes of the exhibition that you can identify. Look around and see if you can find any compositions, styles, or techniques that reoccur in the work of the artist and make sketches or notes about those.

    Image: This image was created on a visit to Monet’s home in Giverny in France where he painted...

    This image was created on a visit to Monet’s home in Giverny in France where he painted. The day before I had seen the incredible display of his impressionist water lilies paintings at the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris.

    Don’t be afraid to put your notes to one side for a while. I often wait for weeks or even months before creating an image inspired by the art I have seen.

    Sometimes it can be good to wait a while – you’ll be using the concepts and ideas as a starting point for your own work rather than just copying what you have seen. A break can help you to interpret the themes of the exhibition in your own way.

    Venture outside your comfort zone

    Be bold and try something new! Experiment with taking inspiration from different genres of art. Use the process of creating new photographs to motivate you to visit the kinds of galleries and exhibitions that you might not have visited before.

    But most of all, try and interpret the artworks and exhibitions that you see into something original. Focus on bringing a part of yourself to the work that you create, no matter where your inspiration comes from, and you’ll be well on the path to originality.

    How to Use an Art Gallery Visit to Inspire Your Photography

    And while you’re there, don’t forget to take some photographs of the gallery itself and the people around you! There’s no reason why you can’t be finding inspiration for future image-making while also practicing your street photography.

    The post How to Use an Art Gallery Visit to Inspire Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


    Digital Photography School

  • Speedlight vs Monolight on Location: See How They Compare [video]

    The post Speedlight vs Monolight on Location: See How They Compare appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video from Adorama, Gavin Hoey compares speed light vs monolight on location.

    ?

    In the test, he does three very common lighting scenarios. He uses the flashes as fill flash, overpowering ambient light, and high-speed-sync flash.

    He uses model, Charlotte, for the demonstration.

    Gavin uses the following gear for the shoot:

    • Olympus E-M5 Mk III
    • Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro lens.
    • Olympus M.Zuiko 7-14mm f/2.8 Pro lens
    • Olympus M.Zuiko 25mm f/1.2 Pro lens
    • Flashpoint Xplor600 Flash
    • Zoom Li-on Speedlight
    • Glow Parapop 38″ Softbox
    • Flashpoint R2 Pro II Transmitter
    • Seconic L-308X-U

     

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Gavin Hoey (@thegavinhoey) on

    Scenario one: fill flash

    First up, in the Speedlight vs Monolight comparison, Gavin uses the monolight.

    Before taking any shots, he takes a meter reading of the ambient light. Then to get his flash to match those settings, rather than use trial and error (which you can do), he uses a light meter to take an accurate reading from his model’s chin. He then uses that to set the flash.

    Settings: f/3.5 1/250th Sec ISO 200

    Next, he uses the speedlight flash. He sets it up using the same light modifier that he uses with the mono light and puts it in the same position.

    He takes another light meter reading of his model’s chin, and set’s his speedlight flash.

    When comparing the photographs, it is difficult to see the difference between using the monolight and using the speedlight.

    Scenario two: overpowering the ambient light

    Settings: f/16 1/250th sec ISO 200

    In this scenario, Gavin runs the flash at full power to see what sort of aperture he can get out of the flash.

    When doing a light meter reading, he gets an aperture of f/22 at the flash’s full-power setting.

    Because he doesn’t want to waste the flash battery power and have a longer recycle time, he drops the flash to half power, which gives him an aperture of f/16.

    He tests the camera settings without flash first to see how dramatic the sky looks. Then he turns the flash on to get some dramatic shots.

    Gavin then swaps the flash over to the Speedlight, again using the same modifier and distance. The meter reading with the speedlight gives f/11, and the speedlight is set to full power.

    In the side by side comparison, Gavin prefers the speedlight version over the monolight (what do you think?). But he prefers the flexibility, faster recycle times, power usage etc. of the monolight.

    Scenario three: high-speed-sync flash

    High-speed-sync flash strobes the light rapidly, meaning you get less power out of the lights. It is used for a shallow depth of field, so Gavin switches to a 25mm f/1.2 lens and shoots at f/1.2.

    Firstly, Gavin turns off the flash and dials in f/1.2 and his flash sync speed of 1/250th of a second and then takes a picture of his model, Charlotte, to see what he gets at those settings.

    While his model is quite well exposed at those settings, the background is overexposed, so Gavin tries 1/4000th of a second shutter speed, which gives him more detail in the background.

    Most light meters won’t work with high-speed sync, so Gavin uses trial and error to set the flash to light Charlotte. He settles with 1/16th power.

    Settings: f/1.2, 1/4000th sec, ISO 200.

    He then tries the same settings with the speedlight flash with the flash at half-power.

    While the flash does well to light the model, it struggles to keep up when shooting a number of shots in quick succession. He managed to get 18 photos in a row before the speedlight stopped working. This was actually the recycle time getting much longer.

    Conclusion

    If you have lots of high-speed-sync photos to take on location, you are better off with a monolight.

    Variables: how far flash is from the subject, amount of ambient light, and softbox.

    What are your thoughts on the comparisons? Which do you think wins in the speedlight vs monolight comparison? Share in the comments!

     

    You may also like:

    • Simple Tips to Improve Your Portrait Photography Immediately
    • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
    • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
    • Your Guide to Studio Lighting Equipment
    • Learn How to Setup Studio Lighting in 15 Minutes
    • Understanding Broad and Short Lighting in Photography
    • Portraits: Lighting the Shot

     

    The post Speedlight vs Monolight on Location: See How They Compare appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

    The post A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    amazing-bird-photography-compositions

    Do you want to capture amazing photos of birds? If so, you have to master bird photography compositions.

    Composition refers to the arrangement of elements within the photo. And it’s often the difference between a creative, compelling image, and an image that just falls flat.

    In this article, I’m going to share with you everything you need to know about bird photography composition. I’m going to give you several tips that ensure you capture beautiful bird photography compositions, without fail.

    Sound good?

    Let’s dive right in.

    amazing-bird-photography-compositions

    The composition basics: Capturing a gorgeous bird photo

    When you take a bird photo, everything in the frame matters.

    The bird. The position of the bird. The position of the bird’s head. The background. Any elements behind the bird. Any elements in front of the bird.

    It’s all important.

    Because the key to a gorgeous bird photography compositions is keeping the shot focused on your main subject.

    amazing-bird-photography-compositions

    You want to make sure that the bird stands out in the frame. You want to make sure everything else in the photo emphasizes and enhances the bird.

    So how do you do that?

    A few simple ways, starting with:

    Simplify the entire composition to make the bird stand out

    If your composition is chaotic, then the viewer is going to get lost.

    And that’s absolutely not what you want.

    Instead, you should aim to simplify the composition as much as possible. The best compositions tend to include a bird and a background. That’s it.

    A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

    While it’s possible to create beautiful shots by including additional birds or interesting features (e.g., shells, flowers), I recommend avoiding that as much as possible. These mess up compositions more often than they enhance them.

    Also, in the interest of simplicity: If there’s anything in the frame that’s distracting, get rid of it. So make sure there are no branches behind the bird. Make sure there’s nothing in the background that dominates the frame or draws the eye.

    That’s how you’ll keep your bird photography compositions beautiful.

    And speaking of backgrounds:

    Aim for a uniform, simple background that makes the bird pop

    If you want a beautiful bird photography compositions, then you need a beautiful background.

    What does this involve?

    First, the best bird photography backgrounds are simple. They’re also uniform.

    Like this:

    A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

    Notice how the background is a nice uniform color.

    It keeps the attention on the bird. It doesn’t distract.

    To create a background like this, you want to start by ensuring a large separation between the bird and the background. One trick is to get down low, on the bird’s level; this will cause the ground behind the bird to fall away, creating a more distant background.

    You should also make sure you use a decently wide aperture, such as f/5.6 or f/6.3 (the particulars depend on the size of your bird, because you don’t want to accidentally make parts of the bird soft!).

    Finally, you should ensure that the background doesn’t include colorful elements that catch the eye. Before you take a shot, look behind your bird, and ask yourself: Will anything in the background dominate the frame? Will anything pull the viewer away from the bird?

    If the answer is “Yes,” then you should consider moving slightly to the left or right so that you’re no longer stuck with a distracting background.

    Use the rule of thirds to position the bird’s eye

    Now that you know how to capture beautiful backgrounds, it’s time to look at your main subject and how to position it.

    Generally speaking, you’ll have a single bird in your photos. And you need to position this bird carefully.

    You don’t want to put it smack-dab in the middle of the frame. That’s a recipe for a boring, static composition.

    Instead, I recommend you place the bird so that its eye falls along a rule of thirds power point.

    What is the rule of thirds power points?

    They’re simply points that are a third of the way into the frame, both vertically and horizontally.

    The eye in this photo, for instance, falls along a power point:

    A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

    It’s a third of the way down, and a third of the way from the left.

    Now, the rule of thirds is misnamed; it’s a guideline, not a hard-and-fast rule. But it is a great way to position your bird and will ensure that the shot feels a lot more interesting.

    So use the rule of thirds whenever you can to position your bird within the frame.

    Point the bird into the frame to add movement

    I’ve talked about positioning your main subject using the rule of thirds, but there’s another aspect to positioning that you should always, always consider:

    The direction the bird is pointing.

    You see, most bird photos have some empty space in the frame.

    And when they do…

    …you want to point the bird into the empty space, rather than away from it.

    amazing-bird-photography-compositions

    You see, by making sure the bird is looking into the empty space, it adds a sense of completeness and a sense of motion to the frame. The viewer’s eye follows the birds line of sight, and everything feels satisfying.

    Whereas if you point the bird out of the frame, the whole shot feels tense. The viewer wants to know what’s outside the frame, with no resolution in sight.

    That’s why bird photographers love to point the bird into the frame. It’s far more satisfying, and can turn the shot into something powerful.

    Capture the bird in a creative pose for increased interest

    Now, when it comes to bird photography, you can capture birds in a normal standing pose.

    And that’ll get you some nice photos.

    But sometimes…

    This isn’t enough.

    If you want to create truly creative bird photography, you need to go beyond the simple standing pose. And capture the bird doing something interesting.

    What counts as interesting?

    For one, preening birds look really interesting. They appear wonderfully tranquil as they clean their feathers.

    A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

    And birds that are sleeping also give off a sense of peace that I love.

    You can also go for action shots: Birds feeding, for instance, can create a lot of interest. You can capture photos of birds that are about to catch food, are currently catching food, or have just caught food. Think of a bird with a huge fish in its mouth.

    It’s guaranteed to add interest.

    Cool, right?

    You can also go for shots of birds fighting or, as is a common bird photography practice, shots of birds flying. Photographing birds in flight can be a challenge, but a really rewarding one.

    So whenever you’re able, don’t just take a standard bird photo. Go beyond this.

    Make something unique!

    A quick guide to amazing bird photography compositions: Conclusion

    You should now have a sense of the best ways to capture beautiful bird photography compositions.

    And remember:

    Getting amazing compositions isn’t hard. You just have to use the tips that I’ve given you, and you’ll be taking stunning photos in no time.

    Have other tips for gorgeous bird photography compositions? Share them in the comments!

    amazing-bird-photography-compositions

    The post A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Clocks

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Clocks appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is CLOCKS!

    weekly photography challenge – clocks

    Anna Marinicheva

    Clocks can be a thing of beauty, or they can simply be functional. Whatever form they take, we’d love you to go out and capture their many ‘faces’ in this week’s challenge!

    They can be color, or black and white. They can be a small part of a wider composition or you can focus in on their fine details – the decision is yours!

    So, check out these inspiring pics by some of the dPS writers, have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    weekly photography challenge – clocks

    Allef Vinicius

    Image: Nick Fewings

    Nick Fewings

    Image: Joan You

    Joan You

     

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting CLOCKS

    6 Ways to Do Architecture Photography That Stands Out

    Tips for Different Approaches to Architecture Photography

    3 Easy Tips for Photographing Details in a Scene

    5 Tips for Developing an Eye for Details in Your Photography

    Portraits: Shoot Details and Evoke Imagination

    6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

    The Ultimate Guide to Street Photography

    10 Non-Technical Ways to Improve Your Street Photography

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSclocks to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Clocks appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released

    The post News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released

    ACDSee has just released its latest post-processing software, Photo Studio Ultimate 2020. ACDSee’s software is meant to pose a challenge to some of the big-name programs out there, most notably Lightroom and Photoshop, though Ultimate 2020 is somewhat unique in that it aims to take on both programs at once.

    While Adobe’s Lightroom plus Photoshop package has remained a favorite of photographers over the past few years, programs like ACDSee continue to give them a run for their money. Especially when you can do with a single program that Lightroom and Photoshop can only do in conjunction.

    ACDSee Ultimate 2020 isn’t just a full-fledged photo editor (like Photoshop), nor does it confine itself to digital asset management with moderate processing capabilities (like Lightroom). Instead, it offers both file management and advanced, layer-based editing for those photographers who’d like to keep their workflow all in one place.

    ACDSee Ultimate 2020 promises a host of new and upgraded features in order to improve both organization and editing workflows, including:

    • Enhanced face detection features, which allow you to easily find photos of specific people within the ACDSee database
    • An HDR function that allows you to combine several exposures to create one high-quality HDR image
    • Focus stacking capabilities, in order to produce a deep depth of field image out of several photos focused at different distances
    • And a Blended Clone tool, which allows you to quickly and efficiently remove distracting areas from your photos for a seamless result

    ACDSee Ultimate 2020 also offers RAW support for a slew of additional cameras, including Sony, Panasonic, Fujifilm, Hasselblad, and Canon bodies.

    The most unfortunate thing about ACDSee Ultimate 2020 is that it’s only available for Windows. But if you’re already a PC user, there’s a lot to love about this program. You can download a copy of ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 for $ 150 USD, or for $ 69 per year as part of a subscription program.

    Now I’d like to know your thoughts:

    Are you planning on purchasing ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020? If not, what is your favorite photo editor, and why? Do you think that single programs like ACDSee will ever be able to take the reigns from Lightroom and Photoshop?

    The post News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School