Category: Photography

6 Vital Things to Look for When Photographing Landscapes

The post 6 Vital Things to Look for When Photographing Landscapes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Photographing landscapes is a hugely enjoyable pursuit that you can undertake all throughout the year. Landscapes are all around us, and being among them and capturing their beauty is a great way to immerse yourself in nature. Landscape photography can also be a fun way to practice your photography outdoors and learn about your camera in the fresh air. Here are six things to consider when photographing landscapes to elevate your images.

1. Dramatic light

One of the best times to be outdoors with the camera photographing landscapes is when the light is adding ambiance to the land.

Dramatic light can appear in all weathers.

You might expect dramatic light only to appear when the sun is shining. This is simply not the case. A predominantly overcast sky can yield impressive light for landscape photography. When the clouds disperse, the sun can unveil magical light as it paints and radiates the landscape.

It is often these fleeting moments of light that make the scenery more outstanding.

Another great moment for dramatic light is after a storm or rain shower when the bad weather clears and breathtaking light replaces it, or the final rays of light following a sunset.

Fujifilm Finepix F700, 12.9mm, 1/300 sec, f/3.6, ISO 200, Normal Program, Pattern Metering. © Jeremy Flint

2. Changes in the season

You can enjoy the beauty of the landscape throughout the year. Have you ever thought about how a local panorama changes with the seasons throughout the summer, autumn, winter, and spring? The changes each season brings can be brilliant for photographing landscapes.

Next time you visit and capture your favorite local scenic view, re-visit during a different time of the year and see how the landscape transforms in an alternative season.

The beautiful vibrant greens of summer are usually followed by the crisp and golden leaves and foliage of autumn when a palette of colors unfolds from shades of red and orange to hues of yellow.

In spring and summer, photographing landscapes can be a superb time to capture flowers in bloom or more minimalist looking images when the trees are bare and striking in winter.

Also, consider using a wide-angle lens to capture a greater perspective.

Canon 5D Mk II, EF 17-40mm f4L USM, 19mm, 1/4 sec, f/11, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering. © Jeremy Flint

3. Changes in the landscape

Our dynamic landscapes continue to change due to human activity and natural processes, shaping our diverse and wonderful landscapes.

Farming has a big influence on our land and can be great for photography. Arable farming (the growing of crops and cereals) and pastoral farming (the rearing and production of animals such as pigs, sheep, beef and dairy cattle) can make great subjects for photography.

As fields get plowed, seeds also get planted. When different crops grow every year, including wheat and barley in the UK, for example, these changing landscapes provide wonderful photo opportunities.

You can also photograph grazing animals in the landscape.

4. Varying weathers

Changes in the weather can be unpredictable and can occur at a moment’s notice. One minute it can be sunny, and the next minute it can be raining. Although you cannot control the weather, you can alter what you shoot. So get creative when photographing landscapes in varying weathers and make the most of anything it throws at you.

Bad weather can provide exciting chances to improve your photos. For example, snow can transform a landscape into a striking minimalist scene.

If the skies are overcast or it is raining, either head to a river for your photography or venture into woodlands where there is more cover for taking pictures.

Canon 5DSr, 16-35mm f2.8L III USM, 18mm, 15 sec, f/11, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering. © Jeremy Flint

The weather can influence a landscape with its changing patterns of light. As the sun and clouds come and go, shoot the diversity of the scene as it develops.

5. Atmospheric conditions

Atmospheric conditions can really help to lift your landscape images. A hint of mist can make an uninteresting scene look moody and interesting. Mist swirling around a group of trees or encircling a building can look spectacular, especially in the right light.

You can use fog to create mystical-looking images too.

© Jeremy Flint

6. Interesting elements

The final suggestion to shoot quality landscapes is to add an extra element of interest in your shots. You can go for a tree, water, people, or even parts of the landscape, such as a fence or gate.

Experiment with different compositions and come up with a view you like. The extra element will help give scale to your pictures and bring out another interesting side to the scenery.

Canon 5DSr, 16-35mm f2.8L III USM, 18mm, 1/30 sec, f/11, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering. © Jeremy Flint

Conclusion

In summary, changes in the weather can be both subtle and extreme, creating incredible moments to capture the landscape. Consider things such as showers, sun, cloud cover or clear skies when photographing landscapes.

Also, look for the seasonal changes in crops and take advantage of dramatic light as it casts its rays over a magical view.

Mist and fog can be the icing on the cake for landscape photography as they add an element of drama and can lift your images from great to spectacular. Also, include a person or building in your landscape shots for interest and scale.

Do you have any other tips for photographing landscapes? Perhaps you’d like to share some of you landscape shots with us? If so, please do so in the comments!

The post 6 Vital Things to Look for When Photographing Landscapes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Digital Photography School

February 3, 2020
A Step-by-Step Guide to Color Grading in Capture One Pro

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Color Grading in Capture One Pro appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

One of the reasons photographers hesitate to move from Lightroom to Capture One Pro is the learning curve associated with a new piece of software. The interface and the tools in COP are very different than those of Lightroom. Color grading in Capture One is one example of a process that is radically different than those found with Adobe products.

That being said, if you already know how to retouch your photos in Lightroom or Photoshop, then it won’t take you long to get up and running with Capture One Pro, which is recognized industry-wide for its superb color grading tools.

Color grading in Capture One Pro is a huge topic, but here are some tips to get you started.

The Color Editor

The Color Editor can be found in the left-hand side of the COP workspace, indicated by an icon as shown below:

Here you’ll find an RGB Histogram, a panel for White Balance, the Color Editor, and Color Balance.

There are three tabs in the Color Editor: Basic, Advanced, and Skin Tone. COP is recognized for its ability to render beautiful and highly realistic skin tones in comparison to other RAW editors.

These tabs allow you to modify the Hue, Saturation, and Lightness of individual colors.

You can also work in Layer Masks. These work similarly to local adjustments in Lightroom and allow you to modify individual colors more precisely.

The Basic tab

There are six color ranges represented in the color wheel under the Basic tab.

To work on a particular color, you first need to define the color range.

Choose the eyedropper to the right of the color wheel and click it on the desired color in your image.

In my image of the roasted cauliflower below, I clicked on the roasted tomatoes in order to work on the red tone.

The shading in the red segment of the color wheel shows you what color/colors have been selected.

You can further define the color range by clicking on the border of the segment and adjusting the width with your mouse.

To see exactly what the range includes click on View Selected Color.

Use the Smoothness slider to control the fall-off of the selected color into neighboring colors. This is represented by the shaded colored area around the boundaries. This will prevent hard edges.

The Basic tab is great in that it allows you to work on colors in your image individually. However, for maximum control when color grading in Capture One, use the Advanced tab.

The Advanced tab

As with the Basic tab, you need to define the color range you wish to work on with the color picker.

Click on the area you wish to adjust.

Then click View Selected Color Range.

Everything that is not part of the selection will be shown on the image as black and white. The width of the selection on the color wheel shows the excluded colors.

When working in the Advanced tab, you have extra precision when controlling the depth of the selection, as shown in the image above.

Simply click on the border and move your mouse towards the center of the color wheel. You can grab the border to include other colors in your selection.

Now you can make adjustments to the Smoothness, Hue, Saturation, and Lightness.

Once you have made the desired adjustments, uncheck View Selected Color Range.

To edit certain colors and not others when color grading in Capture One, you can also work on layers.

Layers in COP work similarly to local adjustments in Lightroom.

The Color Balance Tool

The Color Balance Tool is a simple yet powerful tool for correcting color casts and also for color grading in Capture One.

It can also be found under the Color Tool tab.

Color Balance allows you to not only tweak color, but add luminosity to the highlights, midtones, and shadows individually to an image. It enables precise control over hue and saturation in your images.

It can be used to make local adjustments in conjunction with the Layers Tool.

The tool is split up into five tabs: Master, 3-Way, Shadow, Midtone, and Highlight.

The Master tab allows you to affect color throughout the image. For example, if you want to cool down or warm up your image.

3-Way allows you to conveniently see Shadow, Midtone, and Highlight all at once.

When working with the Color Balance tool, you might want to remove it from the side panel and have it float in your workspace. You can then enlarge it for more comfortable viewing to make extra fine adjustments as needed.

To do this, simply click on the panel and drag it to another area of the workspace with your mouse.

Then drag on a corner to expand it.

To use the individual color balance tools, click on the centerpoint and drag it around the circumference, towards the color you want to affect.

Moving the pointer away from the center towards the perimeter increases saturation.

The curved sliders on either side of the color wheel affect the density of the chosen color range.

To reset the slider, you can click anywhere in the middle.

After you have made your individual color adjustments, you can head over to the Master slider and tweak the overall color balance if you wish.

In the image below, I made a couple of adjustments to the exposure, contrast and brightness of my image but I wanted to improve the colors.

I used the Master tab to cool down the image overall and bring out the blue undertone in the peonies.

Then I added some blue to the shadow. To the naked eye, the plate was quite blue and I wanted to bring this out in my image.

I also added magenta to the midtones and highlights to bring out the pink.

To work on colors individually, like the green of the leaves, you can use the Color Balance tool in conjunction with the Layers tool.

To do this, click on the Layers tab and create a name for your layer so you know what it refers to. I called my “Leaves.”

Paint a mask on the selection of the image you wish to change. There is no need to be super precise.

Use the Master tab to make the adjustment to the color.

The image will be adjusted with the updated color.

Conclusion

Capture One Pro comes with a steeper price tag than Adobe products, however, their claim that they are the number one choice among professionals is not an exaggeration.

Take some time to play around with the Color Editor and Color Balance tool. You may soon find you’ll be abandoning Lightroom for color grading in Capture One Pro.

Do you have any other questions or tips for color grading in Capture One Pro? If so, please share them with us in the comments.

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Color Grading in Capture One Pro appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

Digital Photography School

February 2, 2020
Learn How You Can Easily Create the Perfect Reflection Photos
The post Learn How You Can Easily Create the Perfect Reflection Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

In this article, you’ll discover how to create the perfect reflection photos. You’ll learn how to find reflection photos in locations near to you, and then how best to capitalize on these reflections in your photo. Use the correct equipment, the right angle, and you’ll be taking stunning photos in no time.

What is reflection?

First, the science behind reflection photography. Knowing why reflections form will help a lot when it comes to finding and taking these types of images.

The most obvious object you’ll come across on a day-to-day basis that reflects is a mirror. So in reflection, the angle of the incident light will be equal to the angle of the reflected light.

That means when you stand directly in front of a mirror, you’ll see yourself. However, if you stand to the side, you’ll see the scene that’s to the side of you.

When you reach the extreme edge of the mirror and look across it, you’ll see the room you’re standing in duplicated in a mirror image.

In the majority of cases, you’ll want to get down to the angle of the reflection to create this duplicate image in your photo. Repetition always works well in photography.

A strong subject like architecture can work well for reflection photography.

Which materials have a reflective surface?

Now you know what reflection is, you’ll need to know where to find it. There are lots of things that have a reflective surface – the mirror is the most extreme of these and is designed to reflect. You’re really looking for something with a smooth, shiny surface. So look for the following to get a reflection:
- Metal – Any metal surface will reflect. Surfaces with less scratches are best.
- Glass – Glass will also reflect. The shallower the angle you use, the stronger the reflection will be.
- Marble – Shiny smooth stone surfaces will reflect, but not as much as glass or metal. That said, with water on top of the marble, the reflection will be better.
- Water – Where water forms a flat surface, there will be a reflection. Puddles often do this, ponds also work, and even larger bodies of water can work when there is no wind.
The glass on this shop window becomes more reflective the shallower the angle.

How to take the perfect reflection photos.

Now you know what reflection is, and the materials that produce it, you’re ready to take the perfect reflection photos. Take a look at the following steps, and you’ll be in a position to get the best results.

Finding locations with reflection

Knowing which surfaces cause reflection is only half the story. You need to combine finding one of these surfaces in a location that has an interesting reflection. Going out and finding these is sometimes easy, and sometimes more of a challenge.

Look to the following to improve your chances:
- Clear surfaces – Windows on high streets, or glass protecting commuters from the track in subway stations, all have the potential to be good reflection surfaces.
- Bodies of water – Permanent bodies of water like ponds or lakes can be great for reflection photos. The moat around a castle can also work very well. You’ll want to choose a calm day for best results.
- Puddles – After it’s finished raining, but before the puddles drain away, it is a great time to look for reflections that would not normally be there.
After it’s finished raining get out looking for puddles that will then be reflection pools.

Create your own reflection

There are, of course, times when you’d like to photograph a reflection where one doesn’t usually form. In that case, you could experiment by taking a mirror with you to a location. It might not be practical to bring a large mirror with you, but by using a wide-angle lens, you can make the reflection look much larger than it actually is.

Another solution is to bring a bottle of water with you or even a bucket. If there is a readily available source of water nearby, like a lake or the sea, you might be able to carry buckets of water to a location where you wish to create a reflection.

This location is a popular location to photograph reflections. It’s next to the sea, so it’s possible to make your own reflections. I’m thankful to my friend for helping make the puddle.

Enhance your reflections

There are a couple of things you can do to enhance your reflection photo in-camera. These mainly involve the equipment you use. Look to do the following to create the perfect reflection photos.
- Circular polarizing filter – One of the best items you can use in reflection photography. Using this filter will greatly increase the strength of the reflection.
- Wide-angle lens – Use a wide-angle to increase the scope of the reflection within your photo. Even a small puddle can fill an entire frame if you get close enough to the puddle.
- Shallow angle – The shallower the angle, the greater the reflection will be. So get side-on to a window, or down on the ground near a puddle for best results.
This is the result of making a reflection using buckets of water.

Good subjects for reflection

Now just because a place has a reflection doesn’t mean it’s going to be the best place to take a reflection photo.

As with all photography, you need a strong main subject. That main subject might already be there in the form of architecture. If that’s not the case, you may need to wait for a moment of capture, a person walking past your reflection location, for instance.

While a mirror image reflection could hold your photo, a single person, single tree, or an iconic landmark that also reflects will dramatically improve your results.

Use post-processing for reflections

In addition to the steps you can take in-camera, there are further steps you can use in post-processing. These involve enhancing your existing photo or creating a reflection within your image.

Enhancing a photo

This involves taking a photo that already has a reflection and then making that reflection stand out more.

You’ll be looking to make local adjustments to your image. To do that, you can either use graduated filters to adjust the image or layer mask and reveal only the area of the image that you wish to effect.

Adjustments you can consider making are brightening, sharpening, and adding more contrast to the reflection in an attempt to mimic the image that the reflection is from.

This sunset had the perfect reflection pool. It could be better with a stronger main subject.

Creating a reflection

Lastly, in your bid to create the perfect reflection photos, you could turn to post-processing.

You’ll need to choose an appropriate image to do this – one that has some nice sky would work best.

Then it’s a case of increasing the canvas size of your image, duplicating the image, flipping it, resizing it, and then making the reflection look realistic by adding some imperfections. You can look to create this by using the following guide.

How will you create the perfect reflection photos?

Now you have the knowledge needed to go out and create stunning reflection photos in your neighborhood. Are there any techniques you use to enhance your results either when you take the photo or post-process it?

Here at digital photography school, we value your ideas and opinions, so please share those in the comments section. Likewise, if you have images you’ve taken that show reflections, please share those as well!

The post Learn How You Can Easily Create the Perfect Reflection Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

Digital Photography School
February 2, 2020
How to Jump from Lightroom to Photoshop and Back Again When Editing Photos (video)
The post How to Jump from Lightroom to Photoshop and Back Again When Editing Photos (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this video from Phil Steele of SteeleTraining, you’ll learn how you can jump from Lightroom to Photoshop and back again when editing your photos.

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In this tutorial you will learn:
- How to make the jump from within Lightroom to Photoshop so you can do more detailed editing using layers, and then bring the photo back to Lightroom.
- About making multiple jumps or nested jumps.
- How this function works with RAW files versus JPG files.
- What the different options mean in the “Edit in Photoshop” dialogue box when editing JPGs.
- A workaround to open your original, unedited RAW file in Photoshop.
- How to add text to your photo in Photoshop.
- How to Save the file and how to change the default settings of the file saving format.
- Why you should use only “Save” and not “Save As” when in Photoshop.
- The process that Lightroom uses to save and retrieve your image.
Multiple jumps (or roundtrips)

You’ll learn:
- What happens when you make multiple round trips (jumps to and from Lightroom to Photoshop and back) with the same file.
- The best format to choose after you have closed Photoshop and decide you want to keep editing your edited photo.
- What setting to choose so that you don’t loose further adjustments made in Lightroom when jumping back to Photoshop.
- The trade-off of jumping back to Photoshop for a second time after making further edits in Lightroom but with a sneaky work-around.
- How to make “virtual copies” of your image in Lightroom.
- How you synchronize settings from one image to another in Lightroom.
Nested Jumps (or roundtrips)

You’ll learn:
- How to jump from Lightroom to Photoshop and then from Photoshop to third-party software such as Luminar.
- How to merge multiple Layers into a single Smart Layer so you can open in a third party program/plugin.
You may also like:
- How to Use Camera Calibration Tool in Lightroom (video)
- RAW Photo Editing in Lightroom: How to Make Your Photos Look Real to Life
- How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)
- How to Make Your Photos Awesome in Lightroom or Photoshop Camera RAW
- Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What’s the difference?
- How to Develop Better Black and White Photos in Lightroom
The post How to Jump from Lightroom to Photoshop and Back Again When Editing Photos (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Digital Photography School
February 1, 2020
How to Find Your Vision as a Photographer
The post How to Find Your Vision as a Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

It’s frustrating to be a good photographer but not know what to do with your skills.

You can know your camera inside and out, be able to compose a good photo and capture a great moment, but without vision, you’ll always feel aimless as a photographer.

You’ll be stuck taking pictures that don’t inspire you and perhaps even running a photography business that brings you down.

I’ll show you how to find your vision as a photographer so that you can thrive and create a body of work that you are proud of.

“It is a terrible thing to see and have no vision.” – Helen Keller

Even though I’m a family photographer, photos like this do not fit my vision as a photographer. However, I understand that families want a nice portrait like this, so it’s part of what I offer as a family photographer.

What is “vision”?

Vision has to do with seeing, and photographers constantly practice the art of seeing.

Having vision means you know why you’re taking pictures. You know what you want to accomplish. You’re not controlled by what other photographers tell you to do. You know what you’re pursuing and why.

“Vision is the art of seeing things invisible.” – Jonathan Swift

Photos like this, a candid moment, a splash of chaos to break the order, is more in line with my vision.

Who’s vision are you living?

Without a vision of your own, you may be living out another photographer’s vision.

You see everyone else’s style of photography and feel you have to conform to that even though you don’t want to.

Somebody else has told you how to see the possibilities. Your vision isn’t your own.

But how do you find your vision as a photographer?

A photo like this fits my vision perfectly. It was cold and the little one was confused and grumpy and shivering. The only thing that mattered to her was her mom. But this photo is not really about the little one, it’s about her mom. The mom who sacrifices, and comforts. The mom who abandons everything to embrace her little one.

Look back to find your vision

Part of your work as a photographer is to explore. What you explore is completely up to you.

You often don’t realize the significance of your discoveries until you can see some thread that connects them all.

In all your exploration as a creative person, you will see clues to your vision.

Look back on these five things to help find your vision as a photographer.

1. Note your other creative pursuits

You’re probably a creative person and not just a photographer.
- Consider what books you love to read.
- Take note of what you watch.
- What type of music do you listen to?
- If you sketch or paint, what is your subject matter?
Now, connect photography with your other creative pursuits.

Here’s what it looks like for me:

I tend to read novels that explore human nature, listen to music with lyrics about the ideal life, enjoy comedy that pokes fun of everyday routines, write on themes of personal growth, and studied the humanities at university.

I love to photograph candid moments (even during headshot sessions) because it lets me explore personality and how people act.

Already, I see a connection between my photography and my other creative pursuits.

“You don’t make a photograph just with a camera. You bring to the act of photography all the pictures you have seen, the books you have read, the music you have heard, the people you have loved.” – Ansel Adams

In each of these books, I find a clue to my vision as a photographer.

2. Collect the photos you love the most

What sort of photos are you drawn to and what are your favorite photos that you’ve taken?

What do you see in those photos and how do they connect to your other creative pursuits?

From my earliest days as a family photographer, this is one of my favorite photos. Childhood is a theme I love to explore.

Look beyond your own photography to that of others. What prints have you purchased or photography books do you own?

I’m not a photojournalist, though it’s photojournalism that seems to really inspire me as a photographer. This 25-cent yard sale magazine was one of my best purchases this year.

My favorite photographs are gritty, grainy and misfocused, but I love them.

I appreciate photographers who live for the moments and ideas in the photograph.

Moving forward, pay attention to what compels you to grab your camera and take a photo.

3. List your quirks as a person

This is a fun one. The purpose is to discover what is unique and interesting about you as a creative person.
- Do you have a strange hobby?
- Do you have any funny rituals?
- What are you most embarrassed about?
List those quirky things that make you interesting.

If a toddler cries at one of my photo sessions, you can be sure I’ll snap a picture. l also make moms and dads dance together during photo sessions. It’s always so awkward, but that’s interesting to me.

One of my quirks is that I’m afraid to dance. I figure if I’m afraid of something, then other people are too. So I make couples dance at a portrait session. It’s lots of fun and the most awkward couples end up with the most romantic portraits.

4. What are your favorite 3-5 photography quotes?

Your favorite photography quotes will help you find your vision as a photographer.

Here are a few to get you thinking.

“I realize more and more what it takes to be a really good photographer. You go in over your head, not just up to your neck.” — Dorothea Lange

“Taking pictures is savoring life intensely, every hundredth of a second.” — Marc Riboud

“For me, the camera is a sketchbook, an instrument of intuition and spontaneity.” — Henri Cartier-Bresson

“I tend to think of the act of photographing, generally speaking, as an adventure. My favorite thing is to go where I’ve never been.” — Diane Arbus

“Taking pictures is like tiptoeing into the kitchen late at night and stealing Oreo cookies.” — Diane Arbus

“My life is shaped by the urgent need to wander and observe, and my camera is my passport.” — Steve McCurry

“The most difficult thing for me is a portrait. You have to try and put your camera between the skin of a person and his shirt.” — Henri Cartier-Bresson

Do your favorite quotes have anything in common with your creative pursuits, your favorite photos, and your quirks as a person?

One day the bay we live on flooded and took over our yard. I put on my chest waders and followed my son as he paddled around. This is who I am as a photographer. Wandering into unpredictable and unexpected events to explore. I love it when our everyday life is made strange

5. Pay attention to what you say when you’re upset

Sometimes the spontaneous overflow of emotion contains the exact revelation of what your vision is.

How do you react when your photos are criticized? If you’ve never been criticized, just find a community to share your work online. Sooner or later, a person will let you know what they think of your photos. They will insult you relentlessly. Hopefully, they get under your skin, and you lash back. The words you blurt out are an expression of your vision.

I like wading into chaos and making something beautiful out of it. And if there are blemishes in the photo, so much the better. Because where there are smudges and dust and grain – that’s where things got real.

I keep my iPhone 4s to use as a camera. The grain and discoloration in the photos represent what I see in life. It’s one of my favorite cameras.

Ask, what problem does your vision solve?

By now, you should have a clue as to what you’re after as a photographer. Don’t worry, it takes some time to come up with a precise vision.

A final approach is to ask what problem your vision tackles.

I remember the day I realized what photography was all about for me. I was reading a book on the history of journalism and came across this comment:

“The mission of photography is to explain man to man and each man to himself.” — Edward Steichen

My everyday photography and work is permeated with trying to understand ourselves. That is right in line with the books I read, the comedy I laugh at, and the moments I capture.

As I photograph my kids, other people and social events, I come to understand humanity. And I find myself in places I would never get to be unless I was a photographer.

“The camera is an excuse to be someplace you otherwise don’t belong.” — Susan Meiselas

I’ve been there when brides get ready for their wedding day. That would never have happened without the camera. You get insights into a person when you spend their wedding morning with them. You get insight into humanity when you do this repeatedly over time.

Here is a question that drives me as a person and a photographer: who do you become in a crisis?

What do you become like when a session falls apart? Who do you become as a mom when your little one won’t smile pretty for the camera? Who are you when your children need you? Those questions drive me and therefore drive my vision as a photographer.

A moment between a father and son. He’s done something wrong and neither knows quite how to react or what to say. It’s a defining moment in their relationship.

Your vision ought to make you grow

People with vision foresee exactly what they’re after and why. They work toward it, overcoming obstacles and their weaknesses. To find your vision as a photographer:
- Explore your creativity.
- Ask, what problem does my vision solve?
- How does it make life deeper and better?
- Who do I need to be(come) in order to bring this vision to life?
- What do I have to do consistently in order to bring this vision to life?
- Write yourself a tag line and print it, make a mug, a t-shirt, or paint it on the wall.
Do you have anything else you’d like to add to this? If so, please share with us in the comments.

The post How to Find Your Vision as a Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

Digital Photography School
February 1, 2020
Weekly Photography Challenge – Coastlines

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Coastlines appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is COASTLINES!

© Jeremy Flint

Coastlines are a stunning place to visit (or if you are lucky enough, to live). They can be dramatic and moody or sunny and light depending on the weather and the landscape itself.

So go out and capture coastlines near you. Take note of the wide expansive shots or the details that you find there such as rocks, shells, boats and shacks.

So, check out these inspiring pics, have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

The Gower Peninsula, Wales by © Jeremy Flint

Photo by Jim Hamel ©

Photo by Nisha Ramroop ©

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for photographing COASTLINES

6 Ways to Capture Coastal Scenes to add Impact to Your Photos

Important Considerations for Great Coastal Photography

Travel Photography Tips – Photographing the Coast

5 Quick Tips for Coastal Photography

How to Photograph Coastlines [10 Tips]

How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Anytime of the Day

4 Tips for More Dramatic Beach Photos

7 Tips for Better Beach Photography

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPScoastlines to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Coastlines appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Digital Photography School

February 1, 2020
X-Peditions’ 2020 Trips Announcement

Just a quick note to announce that X-Peditions’ 2020 season has opened. Seats are going very quickly, and we expect both trips to fill shortly.

X-Peditions is a collaborative project between Strobist.com and Washington DC-based Focus on the Story. You can learn more about this year’s classes, or our program in general, at X-Peditions.com.
Strobist

January 31, 2020
7 of the Best Photography Podcasts to Inspire!

The post 7 of the Best Photography Podcasts to Inspire! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

While this is an article that I want to be educational for us all, it is a bit of a selfish one – I love seeking out new recommendations for podcasts! Rather than position this as the definitive list, I wanted to give you the best photography podcasts that I love to listen to in the hope that some of you may find a new podcast to love in 2020.

However, I also want to hear your recommendations for the best photography podcasts I can check out in 2020!

Podcasts are currently seeing serious investment, with streaming giant Spotify investing over $ 400 million.

This has paid off for Spotify, with their podcast audience doubling in the first half of 2019 alone. With that investment, means more podcasts produced, and the quality is getting higher all the time. This is a serious win for us as Podcast listeners.

For me, at least, Podcasts have made their way into part of my daily routine. Like waiting for the next episode of a TV show, I look forward to hearing the latest episodes of my favorite podcasts each week. I tend to listen to them whilst working, commuting, or just to chill out.

The podcasts I listen to tend to be less gear-based and more based on the story of photographers or how to improve in business. This type of content makes me excited to check out the work of photographers I haven’t before. It also inspires, either for strategies to try, or just visual inspiration from the discovery of new photographers.

Not only are big companies investing, but the quality of podcasts on all levels is better than ever. People are spending serious time in making their podcasts sound great. Gone are the days of what felt like listening to a phone conversation between people. Many modern podcasts are well-produced, great-sounding shows that allow me to imagine my perfect radio station, curated just for me.

The 7 Best Photography Podcasts

Why 7? Well, to be honest, I like to try and listen to one podcast per day. I could give you the top 15, or top 20. If you’re not careful, though, your podcast feed (like my own) will be jammed with episodes or entire podcasts you never get round to listening to.

So, in no particular order, here are my 7 best photography podcasts.

1. Photobiz X

Seen by many as the number one photography business podcast, Photobiz X is also the only podcast on this list with a premium version alongside the free version.

The podcast will give you great tips, whichever you listen to. Premium listeners get more of a deep dive into business techniques and access to the excellent PBX group on Facebook. As a member myself, I find the amount of help and support you get from the premium version worth the price. If you do find yourself enjoying the podcast, you can try it free for 30 days to see if it is a worthwhile investment for you.

This podcast interviews a huge variety of photographers and related business experts that can help you improve your photography business. Previous topics have included selling more wall art, website design, copywriting for your business, and a whole host of other topics.

Andrew, as a host, intuitively asks the questions that you find yourself asking as you listen along. He picks away the guest’s layers to get to the heart of the strategies that make their businesses successful.

Also, every episode has actionable takeaways that you can take and apply to your business. The only issue may be that you have too many ideas to try!

Best enjoyed: Monday morning, setting you up with business inspiration for the week.

2. FujiCast

This is a podcast with two UK-based wedding photographers, whom both shoot with Fuji.

You would think that this would be a pretty niche podcast. However, if you can get beyond the name, what you will find is a funny, beautifully-produced podcast that has a great mix between answering readers’ questions and interviews with photographers.

FujiCast is the perfect listen on a Sunday morning with a cup of coffee.

The tone of the podcast is that of two mates chatting about photography, except these mates are very knowledgeable and regarded as some of the best UK wedding photographers.

Yes, the gear talk that features usually has a Fuji slant, but gear talk isn’t where this podcast sings – it is the interviews and stories of the guests that are inspiring.

Again, one of the best things about this podcast is the community that Neale and Kevin have built. They host regular meet-ups for recordings, etc.

The FujiCast is a great listen that will introduce you to some amazing photographers.

Best enjoyed: Sunday morning after a leisurely breakfast, whilst enjoying a coffee.

3. The Candid Frame

The voice! The Candid Frame begins with smooth Jazz, which leads into possibly the smoothest podcast voice ever in Ibarionex Perello. One of the longest-running podcasts, The Candid Frame, has been running since 2006.

You can tell Ibarionex puts loads of work into researching every guest he interviews. His interview technique, honed over nearly 500 episodes, gives the interviewee the chance to tell their story beautifully. He asks questions that help him (and you as the listener) delve into their photographic journey.

Best enjoyed: Late at night, with a glass of your favorite tipple.

4. He Shoots He Draws

This podcast consists of a photographer and designer who describe their podcast as a chat over a cuppa. Episodes range from twenty minutes to well over an hour.

He Shoots, He Draws, is as laid back as the title suggests. However, that would not do justice to the huge amount of knowledge that both Glynn and Dave bring to each episode.

While bringing the angles of photography and design, this podcast covers a variety of topics with a wide-ranging variety of guests.

Best enjoyed: Tuesday morning, to help you make it through the week ahead.

5. This Week in Photo

This podcast really doesn’t need an introduction, and I am sure it is already on many of your weekly listens. One of the longest-running podcasts (it’s been around since 2008), This Week in Photo has a great mix of roundtable discussions and interviews, so this podcast still feels fresh.

Not every topic will appeal to everyone, but with each episode usually in the 30-45 minute range, I find myself listening along and getting something of interest that stops me from skipping.

I did think about not including this podcast due to it being so popular, but a podcast is like an old pair of jeans. It’s the one you always go back to because it feels so comfortable.

Best enjoyed: On a lazy Saturday, slouching in your favorite pair of jeans.

6. So You Want to Be a Photographer

Gina Milicia is a renowned Australian photographer who has photographed many celebs in her time. (She has also written e-books for dPS including Portraits: Making the Shot, Portraits Lighting The Shot, Portraits: Striking The Pose, 14 Amazing Portrait Recipes, Portraits: After The Shot, and Fast FLASH For Portrait Perfection.)

Her podcast, which she hosts with her friend and photography enthusiast, Valerie Khoo, is exactly the opposite of the type of podcast you would expect from such a high-end photographer. Gina is down to earth, and this podcast is full of advice for those on all levels.

The two hosts bounce off each other, and the enthusiast and expert balance between them really helps keep the podcast accessible to everyone. Episodes are full of great advice for people at differing stages of photography from the beginner looking for inspiration through to those taking a step into making money from photography.

Best enjoyed: On a bad Wednesday in the office. When you have decided that you want out of the 9-5 and want to start getting paid for your photography.

7. Photobomb

This podcast is like listening to two radio personalities with the humor of the naughty kids in class.

Booray Perry and Gary Hughes are a duo who will tend to let their episodes wander off-topic, but in a good way. A perfect example of this is starting a recent episode discussing the new Star Wars movie and which Star Wars films get a raw deal.

Booray and Gary are both experienced photographers with personalities that you will either love or hate. Quick-fire banter between them brings all the news and opinions you need for the week. Booray spent twenty years in radio before becoming a photographer, and that definitely comes through in this podcast.

A great listen in the car or at the gym too.

Best enjoyed: On the daily commute, as long as you are happy with occasionally laughing out loud on public transport.

Bonus podcast: Scenario

I’ve left the most fragile until last. The Scenario podcast by Jessica Mcdermott is made up of only six episodes recorded between November 2017 and March 2018. The only updates since then come in two, 2-minute notes about an update and #PodStrike.

You may be wondering, why would you tell us that this is one of the best photography podcasts and one that we need to listen to in 2020? Simply put, each episode is a beautiful little documentary on a fascinating photography story. There is the photographer who shoots landscapes to send to her pen pals on death row and the story of a photographer who is documenting his brother’s gender transition.

Each episode is beautifully put together and reminds me of a documentary that you would hear on Radio 4 (or NPR for you US-based listeners). Every story is fascinating, and I can see them appealing to many people outside of the world of photography.

Jessica allows each photographer to open up and tell their story, so each episode feels very intimate.

My only wish is that this podcast returns with more episodes. Although maybe it is destined to be these six perfect episodes that should be appreciated just as they are.

Best enjoyed: All in one. Find a weekend and listen to these wonderful stories in one sitting.

Conclusion

So there you go – a podcast for every day.

As I said, these are some of the best photography podcasts and are not meant to be an exhaustive list.

There are so many more I could add here, including more of the usual suspects. I am sure there are many more that you could add as well.

So, as I said at the start, I wanted to throw this out to you as the readers. Let’s hear in the comments below one of the best photography podcasts that everyone needs to listen to in 2020. I look forward to adding a load more podcasts to my list from your recommendations.

The post 7 of the Best Photography Podcasts to Inspire! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

Digital Photography School

January 31, 2020
Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images)

The post Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

When I first bought a Fujifilm Finepix X100 in 2012, I was absolutely stunned by the quality of the images it produced. As the first iteration in Fujifilm’s lineup of excellent fixed-lens compact cameras, it paved the way for the rest of the X-series lineup with its excellent optics and fantastic usability.

What impressed me the most, perhaps, was the quality of the JPGs that the camera produced – they were lightyears ahead of anything I’d seen with other camera systems.

In this article, I will introduce you to the commonly available Fujifilm JPG film simulations, including the characteristics of each one and when you might like to use them.

I still have an X100 – but this is the latest iteration in the series, the X100F.

Fujifilm history of film

Fujifilm has been a leader in the photographic industry for decades. Not only are they world leaders in optics, but they are also the biggest producer of instant film and cameras left in the market.

In the heyday of film, they were also one of the leading brands for the production of 35mm and 120 films, making film emulsions loved by photographers everywhere. Some of these famous film stocks (Acros and Fuji Pro 400 H) still exist.

Fujifilm took their color science know-how from the film days and created a range of film simulations for their digital cameras that feature a very high level of color accuracy and reproduction.

You can easily choose the Fujifilm film simulations via a button on the back of X-Series camera bodies.

Do all cameras have all Fujifilm JPG film simulations?

No, the Fujifilm JPG film simulations available to your X-Series camera depend on the model and the firmware updates you have applied. Although the number of film simulations has grown over the years with the release of new generations of cameras and sensors, new film simulations don’t always roll out to older model cameras.

For example, it is rumored that the newest film simulation launched with the X-Pro 3 – Classic Negative – will be rolled out to cameras, including the X-T3 and X-T30, very soon via a firmware update.

This is part of Fujifilm’s ongoing improvements they make to their cameras and lenses.

How can I shoot with Fujifilm JPG film simulations?

First of all, you’ll need an X-Series camera body. Next, you need to set it up to shoot JPGs.

When you do this, the default setting to shoot with is the Provia film simulation. This setting will be applied to all the JPGs produced until you change it. You can easily do that via a button on the back of your camera body, where you can cycle through all available options.

It’s fun to change the film simulations to see what different effects they give you. Another reason why I love mirrorless cameras is that you can even see the effect each film simulation will have through the viewfinder and on the LCD screen – very helpful.

Can I change the film simulation after I’ve shot a JPG?

No, once you shoot the JPG with that film simulation, you can’t change it. So if you’re only shooting JPGs, make sure you’ve selected one that will complement your subject, or shoot JPG+RAW.

You can even convert RAW images to JPG with Fujifilm JPG film simulations in-camera, but that’s a topic for another day.

Can I apply a Fujifilm JPG film simulation if I shoot RAW?

Yes, there are a couple of different ways you can do this after you have taken an image. The first is using software such as Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. The second is by applying the simulation to a RAW file in the camera after you’ve taken it. This is something that often surprises X-Series users. Yes, you can actually process your RAW files as different film simulations in-camera.

Introduction to the Fujifilm JPG film simulations

Provia

Provia was the name of Fujifilm’s most popular color transparency (slide) film. With its medium contrast and saturation, this is the most neutral film simulation and is suited to most genres of photography. It’s the default film simulation on X-Series cameras and is also labeled as “standard” in the menu.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Provia JPG. There are some noticeable differences over the RAW file, such as higher contrast and more saturation.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Provia JPG.

Velvia

Velvia was the nature photographer’s go-to film back in the film heyday. It’s bold colors brought to life the natural world. Velvia’s high contrast and high saturation make it a winning formula for wildlife and landscapes, though it’s one to avoid for portraits.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Velvia JPG. Velvia is showing its rich colors here, with both the greens and the blues highly saturated.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Velvia JPG. Skin tones look too saturated and unnatural, so this is best avoided for portraits.

Astia

This is another simulation named after a slide film, in this case, the film that was very popular among portrait and fashion photographers. Astia is known for its softer colors and contrast, giving a more subdued look overall with beautiful tones. I quite often use this simulation for shooting portraits.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Astia JPG. Great tones and colors, though slightly subdued.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Asita JPG. Lovely colors and tones, though they are not over the top.

Classic Chrome

This Fujifilm JPG film simulation is not based on a classic film emulsion. Instead, Fujifilm developed it to emulate the look of classic documentary-style photography.

Classic Chrome has lower color saturation and full-bodied tones, giving it a distinctive look. Skies look different with this simulation, as it removes magenta. Reds and greens also appear quite unique.

Many street photographers seem to use this film simulation if they are shooting color for a raw, edgier look.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Classic Chrome JPG. Look at the difference between the sky and the grass in these shots.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Classic Chrome JPG.

Pro Neg Hi

Pro Neg Hi is ideal for portraits with slightly enhanced contrast, especially when contrasted against Pro Neg Standard. Modeled after Fujifilm’s most popular print film for portraits, Fuji Pro 400H, it’s the film simulation I most use for portraits (alongside Astia).

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Pro Neg High JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Hi JPG. I love the colors, contrast, and tones of this film simulation.

Pro Neg Std

This is another of the Fujifilm JPG film simulations that is ideal for portraits. It simulates NS160, a professional color negative film for studio portraiture. It has softer graduations and skin tones, especially when compared to Pro Neg High.

For best results, use it with creative lighting choices, or you may end up with a flat, boring-looking image.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Pro Neg Standard JPG. The tonality of this image is quite soft compared to others.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Std JPG. Out of the box, it produces a flatter file with softer colors and tonality.

Acros

Fujifilm’s classic black and white emulsion brought to life digitally with rich details and excellent sharpness. Fujifilm claims that this film simulation matches the tonal range and even the film grain of its analog offering, which is quite impressive.

You even have the ability with the Acros film simulation to apply yellow, red, and green filters in-camera.

The red filter gives more contrast and a dramatic feel. The yellow filter seems more subtle. The green filters seem to work best when photographing people.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Acros JPG.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the red filter. Red filters have long been used in black and white photography to increase contrast and make images look more dramatic.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the green filter.

Monochrome

This was the original black and white Fujifilm JPG film simulation on X-Series cameras until Acros came along. Many people bypass it completely, choosing to create black and white images in post.

As with Acros, there are three variants for this mode; you can add a red, yellow, or green filter.

Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Monochrome JPG.

Sepia

Sepia gives your image a reddish-brown look to mimic the feel of a vintage photo. I’m not sure why anyone would use this filter, but each to their own.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Sepia JPG.

Conclusion

I hope you have enjoyed this introduction to the world of Fujifilm JPG film simulations. Fujifilm produces the best straight-out-of-camera JPGs from any camera manufacturer. The ability to choose a Fujifilm JPG film simulation, many based on classic film emulsions, is the icing on the cake.

I’ve loved playing around with different looks to my images over the years. The ability to see through the viewfinder or LCD is incredible.

Which is your favorite of the Fujifilm JPG film simulations? Share with us in the comments.

The post Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

Digital Photography School

January 30, 2020
5 Ways to Create More Artistic Photos (Fast!)

The post 5 Ways to Create More Artistic Photos (Fast!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Are you looking to create more artistic photos? Do you feel like your photos need a bit of an upgrade?

You’re not alone.

This type of struggle is one that most photographers feel at one point or another. I’ve felt it myself, which is why I developed several methods for increasing the artistry in my own photography.

And I’m going to share these methods with you today.

So if you’re looking to add a level of creative and artistic flair to your photos, keep reading.

300mm, 1/1250 sec, f/6.3, ISO 200

1. Use minimalism to improve your compositions

Creating more artistic photos can start by changing up your compositions.

Because here’s the thing:

After doing photography for a bit, you start to fall into compositional patterns. You’ll take the same type of photo, over and over again. You may not even realize it.

So in order to take things to the next level…

…you should make a strong effort to break free of your compositional patterns.

One of my favorite ways to do that is with minimalism. Minimalism involves using lots of negative space, while also positioning your subject toward the edges of the frame.

400mm, 1/320 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400

For instance, a minimalistic photographer might take a single plant and place it down at the very top or bottom of the frame, while the rest of the scene stays primarily white:

100mm, 1/125 sec, f/2.8, ISO 320

Minimalism is great, and one of the things I love most about it is how it feels so different from normal compositional techniques. Once you start thinking minimalist, your whole outlook can change.

And your photos will start to look far more artistic.

2. Add split toning to enhance the colors

If you’re looking to increase the artistry in your photos, ask yourself:

How am I doing with color?

Because color is one of the most neglected aspects of photography, despite its important role in most photos.

Color adds contrast, creates harmony and disharmony, and evokes different moods.

(All in a wonderfully subtle way!)

Now, one aspect of improving the use of color in your photography involves looking for interesting color combinations when out shooting.

But you can also make changes after you’ve finished your photoshoots.

More specifically, split toning will allow you to add a bit of mood and contrast to your photos.

Here’s a photo with a bit of split toning to deepen the yellow highlights and the green shadows:

90mm, 1/160 sec, f/9.0, ISO 320

Basically, a split tone just involves putting one color cast in the highlights of your photo and one color cast in the shadows of your photo. Cold shadows and warm highlights are pretty common, so you could easily go with a blue/yellow split-tone combination. But you should also experiment with other possibilities to make things as artistic (and interesting!) as possible.

Note that pretty much every RAW photo editor offers split toning in one form or another. So no matter your preferred post-processing software, you’ll be able to add some color!

3. Decrease the depth of field for a softer look

This is one of my personal favorites for making photos more artistic:

Bringing down that depth of field.

With a shallow depth of field, you can create all sorts of interesting effects: Stunning background bokeh, soft subjects, and even abstract-type images.

50mm, 1/2000 sec, Freelensed, ISO 250

Now, to create a shallow depth of field look, you’ll need to use a lens with a wide maximum aperture (something in the area of f/1.2 to f/2.8 is best). You’ll also want a lens of at least 50mm, and you’ll want to get close to your subject, if possible. The closer you are to your subject, the better the soft-focus effect.

Note that it can be difficult to focus when working at such a wide aperture. So you may need to switch your lens over to manual, in order to ensure you nail focus every time.

To add additional interest, you might try positioning a light source in the background, so that you can create cool bokeh, like this:

90mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 320

I’d also recommend thinking about your subject a bit differently. Don’t envision the subject as a single entity; instead, look for shapes and lines that you can use for a more powerful composition. That way, you’ll be able to use the soft-focus effect for more artistic, abstract-style images.

4. Look at the work of good photographers for inspiration

If you’re the type of person who likes to get out and practice photography, you may grumble at this suggestion. After all, practice makes perfect, right?

But it’s important to realize that it’s hard to know what perfect would mean…

…if you haven’t ever seen it.

That’s why I urge you to look at the work of photographers you admire. Do it all the time. If you like, you can simply look at photographers in your favorite genres.

One of the photographers whose work I view over and over again is Jess Findlay. While he and I gravitate toward different subjects, his work serves as a constant inspiration to me.

Or you can expand your horizons, looking for photographers in many different areas.

(In fact, I like to look at work that’s not in my areas of interest; I find that it gives me fresh ideas that would’ve never occurred to me if I’d stuck to my preferred genres.)

When you look at photography that you like, ask yourself:

What is it that makes this work special? What is it that makes it so artistic?

Then come up with some ideas for incorporating that level of artistry into your own work. Don’t copy blindly, but try to pull out bits and pieces of wisdom that you can use to enhance your own photos.

For instance, if you notice that a photographer likes to shoot from a low angle, start shooting from a low angle yourself.

If you notice that a photographer loves to juxtapose two contrasting subjects, try juxtaposing some contrasting subjects yourself.

Just give it a try. My guess is that you’ll notice improvements in your own photos pretty quickly.

And then you won’t want to stop looking at other photos!

5. Lengthen your shutter speeds for more abstract photos

Here’s a final, practical tip for creating more artistic photos:

Use creatively long shutter speeds.

For instance, photograph moving a flower, but drop the shutter speed way down, so you get a cool blur effect.

And then move your camera around, even as you’re taking the photo. That’ll give you an even more interesting abstract:

100mm, 1/6 sec, f/2.8, ISO 250

Personally, I love doing handheld abstracts with long shutter speeds. Sure, they take a lot of experimentation, but they’re also very liberating. And they’re great for situations where the light is too low to get sharp shots handheld and you don’t want to use a tripod.

Now, to pull off this type of abstract image, you’ll need to put your camera in Manual mode (or Shutter Priority) and drop the shutter speed until it reaches 1/10s to 1s (or longer). Then, as you hit the shutter button, move your camera. I’d recommend aligning the movement with compositional elements in your scene (e.g., if there are trees in the scene, move the camera along the tree trunks).

You’ll end up with some very artistic blurs!

Five ways to make your photography more artistic: Conclusion

Hopefully, you now know a few easy ways to make your photos more artistic.

After all, capturing artistic photos doesn’t have to be hard…

…it just involves changing things up!

So try some of the ideas I’ve suggested, and see how things go. I bet you’ll like the result!

300mm, 1/400 sec, f/6.3, ISO 320

Do you have ideas for creating more artistic photos? Share them in the comments!

The post 5 Ways to Create More Artistic Photos (Fast!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Digital Photography School

January 30, 2020