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Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas

05 Jun

The post Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

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Before there was photography, artists used paints and brushes to record their visions onto a canvas. Fruit and vegetable still life images were common subjects for many. Even today, in art schools, a fruit bowl might be an early subject. Learning to reproduce shapes, tones, color, and replicating the way light, shadow, smooth reflective objects, and dull matte objects look in the light – all those things would be part of your training.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas

We, as photographers, would do well to take a similar approach to our photography. We have it easier in many ways; not needing paints and brushes to create our images on a blank canvas. However, learning about light, composition, and technique are still foundational lessons.

If you are stuck at home, this could be a good opportunity to slow down, work on the kitchen table, relax with a slow-paced style of photography, and learn some new photography skills. A fruit and vegetable still life project could be just the way to spend a quiet day at home.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Putting these kiwi slices on an inverted glass pie plate, and then putting an LED flashlight under the plate, so the light shone through them, was the key to making this photo.

Subject selection

There are several reasons why fruits and vegetables make good still life subjects. They have interesting shapes, textures, colors, and details. As they are food, we can work to make them look especially appetizing, selecting the freshest and best subjects to be our “models.”

People who specialize in food photography will often use the talents of “food stylists” who carefully pick just the right subjects. They then use tricks, much like a fashion makeup stylist would use, to make their “models” as flawless and stunning as possible.

If you have access to choice fruits and vegetables right now, by all means, go seek such subjects. On the other hand, if being restricted to home means you need to use that somewhat sad-looking collection of carrots from the bottom of the refrigerator, just take your photo in a different direction.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
If all you have is some sad looking carrots from the bottom of the refrigerator, go with what you have. Note the “wood backgrounds” here are actually printed sheets from a craft store.

Types and styles

In the early-to-mid 1600s, the Netherlands saw the rise of a collection of artists we now refer to as the “Dutch Masters.” A realistic style, emphasis on dramatic directional lighting, and the play of light and shadow are earmarks of the look. A good example of a Dutch Golden Age still-life artist is Willem Kalf. See his image below, “Still Life with Lemon Peel.” Now, as a photographer, how might we emulate that look?

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Still Life with a Peeled Lemon – Willem Kalf (Dutch, 1619 – 1693) 1664 Oil on canvas * Rose-Marie and Eijk van Otterloo Collection * Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

A favorite technique of mine for emulating the Dutch Master’s look is light painting. I discuss this at length in my DPS article, “Learn these Two Techniques for Dramatic Light-Painted Photos.”

A distinct advantage of still life photography is that shutter speed is not critical. If you need a multi-second exposure, no problem. Work from a tripod so your camera is rock-steady, lock up the mirror on a DSLR to minimize vibrations, and use a cable release or perhaps the 2-second timer to trip the shutter. Go to full-manual mode. Keep your ISO at the lowest setting to minimize noise. Select an aperture based on how much depth of field you seek, and select a shutter speed for however much time you need for the “painting.”

Grab your flashlight and paint away.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Seeking to emulate the style of the Dutch Master’s paintings, I made this light-painted shot using just the illumination of a small flashlight and a 10-second exposure.

A favorite photographer I follow now on Instagram is Carlo Denino. Often with just a single fruit, vegetable, or other subjects, he produces exquisite light paintings. I encourage you to give his images a look and see if you can then emulate his style. I know from personal experience it’s not nearly as easy as it might look!

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas

Lighting

Light Painting

Light painting is just one way you can go when doing fruit and vegetable still life images. Natural lighting can often be great and will require nothing more than your camera.

Dutch Master’s images were typically painted to look like they were illuminated by a single light source off to the side.

Find a window where you can place your subject and see if you can create the look. If you need a little fill to reduce the shadows, a simple reflector or even a white card can do the trick.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Always keep an eye out for photo subjects. Both of these were done outside when I just happened across the scenes. The shot on the left was done with my LG V30 cellphone. The one on the right, when I happened to have my camera one day on a neighborhood walk.

Non-conventional lights

Explore how other lights that would be considered non-conventional for photography, such as LED-flashlights, can work. Yes, they will not usually be as bright as standard photo lighting, and their color temperatures can vary. But they do have the advantages of being cheap, small and portable, and perhaps something you already have on hand. Use long exposures to compensate for their lower light output, and when you shoot in Raw mode, finding a good white balance will be much easier.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
When working close to small subjects, an LED flashlight might be all the light you need, especially when with still-life, your shutter speed can be as long as you want.

Flash

Speedlights can be another option. You will typically not want your light to come from the front of your subject, so your pop-up flash or hot-shoe-mounted Speedlight isn’t the best way to go. If you can, get the flash off the camera and fire it with a remote trigger. Or perhaps use a flash cord to get it away from the camera. If not, try bouncing the light off the ceiling, a wall or a reflector to redirect the light and soften it.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Bright sunlight and a shutter speed of 1/3200 second was the trick to freezing the motion of these shots. Splash photography with fruits and vegetables is a great combination creating a “freshness” look.

Tricks with conventional photo lighting

If you have dedicated photography lighting, that’s great. Give it a try and perhaps use your fruit and vegetable still life subjects to explore some new lighting techniques. Try different ways to modify the light with snoots, reflectors, flags, diffusion, gobos, colored gels, or whatever else you can think of.

Unrestricted by time or pressure to get it right quickly will open you up to experiments you might have never tried. If you fail twenty times but come up with a new and exciting technique just once, you can consider your experimental lighting play a great success.

Lighting direction

With their interesting colors and sometimes translucent nature, fruits and vegetables can lend themselves to some interesting lighting techniques. Rarely will you want to light from the front of the subject as this will produce rather flat and uninteresting light.

Instead, try side lighting to emphasize texture, backlighting to perhaps create some nice rim-lighting, or if you want to get some really creative looks, lighting through your subject.

Fruits and vegetables that can be sliced thin work great for this. For example, I made thin slices of a kiwi, then made a platform from a glass pie plate under which I placed an LED flashlight. The light shining up and through the slices really emphasized the color and detail. Citrus fruits work well for this technique too.

Experiment and see what you can create.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Citrus fruits sliced thin make great subjects for backlighting as the colors and textures are so interesting. We also expect to see them in drinks and scenes like this.

Backgrounds

As with any other photo subject, carefully consider the background when you stage your fruit and vegetable still life image. You will want a background that complements and doesn’t interfere with your subject.

Quite often, the best background will be the simplest. Consider using a completely white or black background if that works for the image you’re trying to create. Lightroom makes it very easy to blow out whites or totally blackout shadows with the adjustment brush aided by other tools like the clipping indicators and Auto and Range Mask. Paint out what you don’t want to keep the focus on your subject.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
The fruit here is more the “supporting cast” in this shot of a raspberry lemonade cupcake. However, all the elements of this shot were carefully chosen. The background is a piece of scrapbooking paper from the craft store.

Of course, the other option you always have with photography is blurring, and thus simplifying, your background with a limited depth of field.

If you are a new photographer just trying to get your head around how depth of field works, the slow and deliberate nature of making fruit and vegetable still life images is a great way to experiment and understand the relationships of apertures, focal lengths, and their effects on depth of field.

Spritz things up

A favorite trick of food photographers looking to make their fruit and vegetable still life images look fresh and also add interest is to use a spray bottle to spritz their subjects with water. Sometimes to create larger droplets that hang better and last longer on the subject, they will add a bit of glycerine to the water.

Macro

The structure of living things is often fascinating, and being able to explore fruits and vegetables up close can reveal some really interesting things. Whether you use a dedicated macro lens, extension tubes, bellows, close-up filters, a reversed lens, or a combination of these, macro work is just the thing to divert your attention from your troubles while you focus on the unseen world.

Working inside in a controlled environment with no wind and complete control of the lighting will also help you learn macro techniques.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Get close and explore the detail with a macro shot. Often my LG V30 cellphone rivals even my dedicated DSLR macro lens.

Tell a story

When making fruit and vegetable still life images, it can enhance your photo if you add other objects to help “tell a story” about your scene. Rather than simply take a photo of an apple, slice the apple, add a cutting board and a knife to invite the viewer to consider what might have been going on. Add props that enhance the theme and avoid those that distract. Consider what makes sense in that particular scene and things you would naturally find paired together.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Add other items to your fruit and vegetable still life images to help tell a story.

High and low key

Fruit and vegetable still life photography can sometimes lend itself to high and low key renditions. To briefly define the terms, high-key is a lighting and exposure style that is very bright and contains little or no shadow. Contrast ratios, that being the difference between the lightest and darkest tones, are minimized. High-key photos will often have an “ethereal” look to them.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Two high-key images done very differently. The raspberry shot used a fast 1/1000 second shutter speed, the onion a slow 1/13 second shutter speed.

Low-key images are the opposite and typically quite dark, often with shadows that are totally black. They will often be quite contrasty with few mid-tones. Sometimes a low-key shot will use highlights in certain places to emphasize shape and form. Back and rim-lighting can lend itself well to a low-key look.

Here’s an exercise to try; take a fruit or vegetable, compose your shot, and make a “normal” exposure. Then, without moving the camera or subject, change the lighting and exposure to give it a high-key look. Now change the lighting and exposure again and see if you can get a low key look. This is a fun way to explore lighting techniques and understand the dramatic difference lighting can have on a scene.

Still life that moves

We call it “still” life because, most often, the subject doesn’t move during the exposure and is static. But need it be that way?

Fruits and vegetables can make great subjects for some dynamic images. In my article “Making the Shot: Your Guide to Creating Stunning High-Speed Splash Photos Without Flash,” I show some fun ways to make some really exciting images. You’ll note that almost all of my subjects were fruits and vegetables.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Still-life doesn’t have to be still. The short duration flash of a Speedlight froze the action in these shots.

There’s also this image from my “How to Use Multi-flash to Capture Compelling Action Photos” article. The orange pepper stood out nicely on a dark background and allowed me to make the stroboscopic image as it flew through the air.

Mom may have told you not to play with your food, but here, it’s entirely appropriate and a whole lot of fun.

Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Mom might have told you not to play with your food, but for photographic purposes, you have my permission to go crazy.

Conclusion

Many of you may be homebound and looking for creative ways to keep up your photography practice. Making fruit and vegetable still life images has some advantages;

  • It uses subjects you may already have at home.
  • It lends itself to a variety of different lighting techniques.
  • Macro photography is a possibility.
  • You can explore all kinds of new techniques.
  • If you get some really good shots you may be able to sell them as stock images.
  • After you’re done, you can eat your subjects!
Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas
Get back to your roots. A shot one day when visiting a farmer’s market.

Have fun with your fruit and vegetable still life photography, and post some of your great shots in the comments below.

If you’d like feedback, critique, and have a question about how to do something better, post that too. I try to answer all comments and look forward to hearing from you. Best wishes and be well!

The post Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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Sonoma, Redux

05 Jun

I am quickly becoming a big fan of Northern California. I first went out last year for my birthday, had a blast, drank lots of wine. This was my second trip up to SF/Sonoma – Hung out for a day or two in the city, then drove up to the wine country. Only carried my GF1, but it served me well. (although my buddy who isn’t a photographer himself had an old Hasselblad 503cw from his dad, which we took out for some shots!) Early winter seems the perfect time to go as well – the countryside was a rainbow of reds and yellows… the vine covered hillsides were shockingly bright, especially when viewed from afar – the highly maicured vines created an almost solid carpet of color across the rolling hills.

Lots of pictures, lots of wine… what more could you ask for? (slideshow below)

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My new evaluation criteria for my portfolio work…

05 Jun

From the inimitable “Burns Auto Parts Blog”

 

 

So here’s my challenge to you: look at your work on your site. Do you love it–all of it? Does it make you smile/get you excited/make you want to do more of it? Be honest–don’t look at it from its technical side and definitely do not ask “Do I think buyers will want this?” If you do, then look at your marketing.

If you don’t, then get off your creative butt and start making the work that you make out of love and that weird compulsion that makes you do this and not be a 9-5 “normal” person.

 

 

Words of wisdom indeed.  I have been working on a major portfolio overhaul, with just this in mind.  You know the saying… Show what you wanna shoot!

 

 

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I think most “creatives” can relate:

05 Jun

A great quote from Sebastian Marshall:

I don’t differentiate between work and play. I think my time is spent in either excellent, good, okay, or bad fashion. If too much of my time is just “okay” or “bad” – I’m doing something wrong

I think most freelance photographers, painters, writer, and pretty much anyone in a non-“standard” 9-5 job can relate.  Kinda reframes the whole “wasting time” thing – instead of trying to stop wasting time, just aim to increase the amount of time spent in excellent fashion!

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Pgytech OneMo 25L Backpack Review

04 Jun

The post Pgytech OneMo 25L Backpack Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

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When Pgytech first got in touch about doing an Onemo 25L backpack review, I wasn’t familiar with the company. So whilst I waited (not so patiently) for the bag to arrive, I set about finding out a little more about them, their origin, and ethos. Pgytech was formed by a group of young, enthusiastic, and like-minded photographers to create pioneering products that link together seamlessly with photographers’ existing kit. Besides this bag, they have created a load of products for other photography and video equipment such as drones and action cameras.

Onemo 25L Backpack Review

OneMo 25L Backpack Review: bag specifications

Capacity – 25L expandable to 30L and a 5L removable drone pouch.

Size – 480mm x 320mm x 230mm for the main bag and 270mm x 180mm x 120mm for the built in pouch.

Color – Black or Olivine Camo

Weight – 2.5kg total.

Material – Polyester fibre material which is water, scratch and tear resistant.

Onemo 25L Backpack Review

Initial thoughts

When the Pgytech OneMo 25L Backpack first arrived, I was really impressed by the presentation straight out of the box. The bag comes in a really nice branded, recyclable bag. As cool as this was, I’m not going to lie, I tore it off pretty quick so I could take a look inside. The bag itself is sleek and stylish with great quality finishes and a nice all-round feel.

Who’s it for

The OneMo 25L Backpack is designed to meet the needs of drone and photography enthusiasts. The bag will comfortably hold your DSLR or mirrorless camera along with two or three lenses (depending on your lens inventory) in the top compartment. It will also hold a few accessories such as batteries and memory cards.

The bottom section that houses the drone pouch has more than enough space to hold a Mavic 2 Pro, and it’s accessories. If you remove the drone pouch, you have plenty more room in the main bag for more lenses, clothes or general items you may need for the day. The OneMo 25L backpack has targeted the needs of the modern enthusiast and meets them efficiently.

Onemo 25L Backpack Review

In the field

No camera bag review is complete until you’ve spent some time using it and walking around with the bag. So I hit the trails to get a better idea of how the bag holds up for this OneMo 25L backpack review.

I was out shooting all day with my camera, a 14-30mm lens, 24-70mm lens along with all the accessories I needed. I chose to keep the pouch in the bag and placed the drone and extras in there as I wanted to have only one bag with nothing else getting in the way.

The bag was really comfortable to walk with. There was no noticeable movement from within the bag, which is always reassuring. I use a fairly heavyweight Manfrotto tripod, and I did find the top-mounted tripod holder to be a little cumbersome and awkward for a tripod of this size. But then this bag isn’t realty designed for this type of equipment.

Onemo 25L Backpack being worn

Once I strapped one of my smaller tripods to the bag, it was not a problem. In the field, the bag was effortless to access. I really like the suitcase-style flip lid that joins down the long side of the bag as opposed to the bottom. This does away with the issue of getting straps and leads caught up with your equipment, which I find to be an issue with lots of other camera bags.

Onemo 25L Backpack Review

Cool features

During this Pgytech OneMo 25l backpack review, there were a couple of cool little features I discovered. I haven’t seen these before, and I thought they were a great idea for photographers.

  • Like many camera bags, this bag has dedicated pockets for your batteries. In one of the side flaps, there are three camera battery sized pouches with a little toggle that switches from green to red depending on the condition of your battery. This can be really useful if you have multiple batteries so you know which need charging and which are ready to use. I also thought these could be quite usefully adapted to the same end with your memory cards to know which are used and which are cleared and ready to use.
  • Customizable dividers. The Pgytech OneMo 25L bag can be arranged to suit all needs, but the dividers are what really make this great. They can be molded to any position and have this great little flap that can come down to support the lens and allow you to use the dead space for additional equipment.
  • Two of the exterior pockets have anti-theft loops that are really easy to set and incredibly hard to gain access to quickly for any would-be thieves.
Cool Features Onemo 25L Backpack Review

Pros and cons

Pros

  • Lots of neat little design functions
  • Comfortable
  • Unassuming (doesn’t shout cameras inside)
  • Good ergonomics
  • Removable drone pouch
  • Stylish-looking
  • Water, scratch and tear-resistant material

Cons

  • Tripod holder not very big
  • A little more protection around the main shell would be nice.

Conclusion

This bag is a really great camera bag for any outdoor photographer.

Whilst more serious professionals might need a bigger bag for all of their equipment, this is more of an everyday bag that would be perfect for a travel photographer like me.

Whilst sometimes I may want to take a bigger bag. Generally, when I’m shooting in a place like a city, smaller bags are much more convenient. There’s less weight to carry, and they are much easier to get in and out of busy places.

Overall, I was really impressed with the OneMo 25L backpack, and it will be a welcome addition to my set of camera bags.

Note: The author was given the bag for free for this OneMo 25L Backpack review. He was not paid or given any incentives in exchange for a positive review. This review is an honest account of his experience and opinion in using the product.

You may also be interested in:

  • Peak Design Everyday Backpack Zip Review
  • Gear review: 3 K&F Concept Camera Bags Put To The Test
  • ThinkTank Vision 15 Camera Bag Review

The post Pgytech OneMo 25L Backpack Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.


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How to Use the Orton Effect in Photoshop to Save Blurry Photos

04 Jun

The post How to Use the Orton Effect in Photoshop to Save Blurry Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

orton effect in photoshop featured image

Is your photo a little bit blurry? Don’t throw it out just yet. In most cases, you wouldn’t want soft-focus in your image, but you can rehash-it with a different purpose. One thing you can do is apply an Orton effect in Photoshop to give it new life, especially if it’s a landscape.

Landscape Orthon Effect in Photoshop

Some times when you see your photographs in the camera without zooming in, they look sharp when they are not. Maybe your shutter speed was too slow, or you were using the wrong focus mode.

There are many reasons this can happen. Often you find out too late – when you’re already back home on your computer.

If it’s possible just go back and shoot again, you can find some useful tips in this article so that you can get the best results. If this is not an option, soft-focus and blurry images are completely acceptable if done in a creative way. This is where the Orton effect in Photoshop comes in.

Close-up Orthon Effect in Photoshop

What is the Orton Effect?

The photographer Michael Orton invented this technique, hence the name. It was created in the 80s, which means that it was done with film photography. He overlapped different versions from the same scene with different exposures and a different focus. As a result, the image gained a surreal atmosphere.

Michael Orton Artist Statement

His images look like paintings thanks to the experimentation he does with light, color, and motion. On his website, he says that “The vast color combinations and unique variations of light found in the natural landscape, used with the wide variety of choices in compound camera motion provide an exciting challenge.”

You can go there to see his work and understand more of the technique before getting into it.

The Orton Effect in Photoshop

Because this technique was done by stacking images, it can be perfectly recreated in Photoshop because you can work with Layers. Since this is technically easy to do, many photographers have tried it.

Get yourself acquainted with what is out there so you can find your own style. Try using hashtags like #orton or #ortoneffects on Instagram and Pinterest.

Orton effect on Instagram

Choose your image

Although technically speaking, you can apply this technique to any photo, it doesn’t necessarily look good on all of them. This is mostly done on landscapes because of the dream-like glow that will result from it.

Orthon effect in photoshop tutorial
This image is slightly blurry, it’s mostly a landscape and the man in the bear custom works well with a surreal atmosphere.

Another thing to consider is that it’s not a magical way to save an image that’s completely out of focus. Because it mixes areas with different amounts of detail in them, the soft-focus won’t be distracting. But you do need a certain degree of sharpness in it.

Step by step

In the same way that Michael Orton stacked slides, you’re going to be stacking layers. There are many ways to achieve this technique, it’s a matter of experimenting and finding your own. The basic principle is the same, though; blend different exposures and focus. Here’s my way of doing it to get you started.

Different exposures

When you open your image in Photoshop, it will be a Background layer that is locked. Click and drag it into the Duplicate Layer button at the bottom of the panel to create a copy of it.

Photoshop layers

Now, change the Blending Mode to Screen. You can do this by opening the menu that you’ll find at the top of the Layers Panel.

The Screen blending mode is one of the different options that allow you to lighten your image. When this layer blends with the one underneath, the pure blacks – if any – will be covered. The pure whites will stay the same and the greyscale will become brighter.

Screen blending mode in Photoshop

Next, duplicate the original background layer again and drag this copy to the top.

Then, change the blending mode to Multiply. This one does the exact opposite of the Screen blending mode. As the name indicates, it multiplies the base color by the blend color resulting in a darker one.

Multiply blending mode

Different focus

Now that you have different exposures, you need to add the different sharpness.

For this, you’ll need to add a filter.

Whenever you do this, it’s a good idea to make it a Smart Filter so that you can always come back to change it. The first thing to do is to right-click on the layer and choose Convert to Smart Object.

Smart objects in Photoshop

With this change, you’ll be working non-destructively. So, go to Menu>Filters>Blur>Gaussian Blur. In the pop-up window, you can adjust the right amount of blur for your image. Keep the preview option checked so that you can see what you’re doing.

Gaussian Blur

It’s easy to overdo it, so I recommend that you always come back to your work and check with fresh eyes. Because you made it a smart filter, you can just double-click on it and the Gaussian Blur window will pop-up again so you can make any adjustments you want.

Finishing touches

Because the filter will be on a mask, you can paint black any area that you may want to keep without the blur. This can help to create a different effect or direct attention to a specific subject.

You can then crop or add any adjustment layers to finish it off.

Layer's mask in Photoshop

There you go, an easy and fun technique that can turn your not-so-great photo into an artistic project to save the day. Try it and share the results in the comment section.

Orton effect in Photoshop result

The post How to Use the Orton Effect in Photoshop to Save Blurry Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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Sony to Announce Ultra-Wide 12-24mm f/2.8 GM Lens

03 Jun

The post Sony to Announce Ultra-Wide 12-24mm f/2.8 GM Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

dps Sony 12-24mm f/2.8 announcement

If you’re a landscape photographer, you’re in for a treat.

Sony is preparing to announce its brand-new, ultra-wide 12-24mm GM lens, which will offer a great range of focal lengths, an impressive f/2.8 maximum aperture, and (likely) stellar optics.

Let’s take a look at what we know.

First, the lens specs:

The Sony 12-24mm will feature a focal length range custom-made for landscape photographers. At 24mm, you’ll be poised to capture some wide images. And once you zoom out to 12mm, you’ll have wide-angle capabilities that few lenses can match, able to capture sweeping vistas that would normally be impossible to shoot.

Sony will announce the 12-24mm f/2.8 lens

A consistent problem with ultra-wide lenses is a bulbous front element, which makes it impossible to mount circular polarizers and neutral density filters. But Sony seems to have addressed this too, with the (rumored) inclusion of a rear-mounting filter option. That way, landscape photographers can take advantage of drop-in filters, and don’t have to choose between a wide focal length or enhanced image quality.

As for the optics:

Given the G Master designation, we can expect the lens to offer excellent sharpness from corner to corner, very limited chromatic aberration, and more.

In other words, the new Sony 12-24mm is a landscape photographer’s dream.

Note that Sony does already offer a 12-24mm lens, one that’s well-known for its optical prowess. But the current 12-24mm only shoots as wide as f/4, and while this is fine for most landscape situations, there’s one area of landscape photography where a wider maximum aperture is almost always better:

Astrophotography.

For photographers who shoot skies in complete darkness, an f/2.8 aperture allows for a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the stars without boosting ISO too much. The difference between f/2.8 and f/4 may not seem huge, but it does matter; at f/2.8, you’ll often come away with a sharp, clean shot, compared to the blurry or noisy result you get at f/4.

Of course, a lens that offers such impressive specifications is bound to come with a matching price tag. While Sony has not yet revealed any details, rumors suggest that the 12-24mm f/2.8 GM will cost around $ 4000 USD.

Is this pricier than I would like?

Absolutely.

But it’s bound to be one heck of a lens!

So keep an eye out for further news; you should see a Sony announcement sometime in the next few weeks.

Now over to you:

What do you think about this new Sony lens? Do you think that $ 4000 USD is too high a price? Or will the lens be worth it? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Sony to Announce Ultra-Wide 12-24mm f/2.8 GM Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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How To Take Good Pictures of Flowers- An Easy Step by Step Guide

03 Jun

Do you want to learn how to use light in photography? Photograph a flower. A flower in and of itself is an interesting subject. Flowers have different textures, bright colors, and won’t get bored of sitting still while you adjust your settings. But a quick snap of a flower, while beautiful, can be boring. If you really want to bring Continue Reading

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How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images

02 Jun

The post How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

dps-how-to-photograph-long-exposures

Many new photographers may not know how to photograph long exposures, or even what that means to their photography. Thanks to the development of camera accessories and filters, capturing long exposures is becoming a very popular medium of photography for enthusiast photographers.

Long exposure photography is a technique used by many landscape, cityscape and seascape photographers. Have you ever seen a picture of the city where clouds show motion, the car lights have been made streaky or the seawater is rendered blurry? Well this will usually be the result of using a filter to achieve a long exposure that captures the movement of the subject.

how to photograph long exposures
This long exposure has allowed the waves to soften. Illheus da Janella © Jeremy Flint
Canon 5DSR, EF24-70 f2.8 USM II | 30sec f/11 ISO 100

Before we look at how to photograph long exposures, it is first worth considering the meaning of a long exposure, and the different types of photography you can apply the method to.

A long exposure is “a timed exposure of a long duration where the shutter is open for a speed of several seconds where the purpose and aim of long exposures is to sharply capture and minimize movement of static objects within the frame whilst blurring the elements with motion.”

Samples of long exposure photography

There are a variety of different styles of photography where using long exposure photography techniques can result in great images. Some examples of popular subjects include landscapes, cityscapes, seascapes, astrophotography (such as creating star trails), street scenes, and even abstract scenes.

Applying the technique of long exposure photography to landscape scenes can be a great way to create drama in skies or foregrounds with moving clouds or foliage.

Shooting water with long exposures can also benefit your images. Capturing moving water can bring an ethereal look and feel to seascapes as waves break or crash. Using a long exposure, you can capture the swell of the ocean or motion of tides for dreamy-looking images.

How to achieve long exposures

When considering how to photograph long exposures,
you will initially need to think about the kit that you will require, how to
set this up and the steps to capturing your image.

How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images
The Lee Big and Little Stopper Neutral Density (ND) Filters are great for long exposure photography.

Kit required

A tripod is an essential piece of equipment to enable your camera to remain still during the image capture time when the shutter is open.

Next, you will need a cable release, or wireless remote so you can start and stop the long exposure. Please note this is only required if you need to extend your exposure time beyond 30 seconds. If you shoot below 30 seconds your cameras self-timer will be sufficient to trigger and close the shutter.

A filter holder is another essential item that is required to achieve long exposures. These are used to hold the filters in place that will be used to slow the exposure time down. 

how to photograph long exposures
The filter holder with the Lee 6-stop ND Filter attached to the camera.

With regard to using filters, neutral density (ND) filters are recommended to minimize the light entering your camera.

These vary in strength and the effect they can create. The darker the coating, the greater the number of stops of light and the stronger the filter will be. For example, a 10-stop filter will block out more light than a 3-stop or 6-stop filter, and enable you to achieve longer exposures. Examples of these filters include Lee Filters Big Stopper (10-stop) and Little Stopper (6-stop).

how to photograph long exposures
St Nectain’s Glen waterfall, Cornwall, England
Canon 5DSR, EF24-70 f2.8 USM II | 1.5sec f/4.5 ISO 100

Leaving your shutter open for an extended amount of time can result in some really interesting shots. With this shot of a waterfall, I wanted to make the water more blurry, so I set the camera up on my tripod and photographed it using an ND filter and a longer exposure. By increasing the exposure time, you can see I have been able to create a milky, smooth effect on the water, giving a pleasing result to the image.

Set Up

Once you have found a composition you like, you will need to place your camera on the tripod, attach your cable release and affix your filter holder. Next, focus the camera manually (using the MF button on the side of your camera) before putting the filter in place.

How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images
Ponta do Rosto, Madeira
Canon 5D Mk IV, EF16-35 f2.8L III USM | 241sec f/11 ISO 100

Steps to photographing long exposures

Once your kit is set up, here are some simple steps on how to photograph long exposures using the equipment mentioned above to achieve sharper images.

1. Bulb mode

Arrange your camera so that you are shooting in bulb mode. This allows you to keep the shutter button open for longer. It will stay open as long as you hold it open.

2. Set your aperture and ISO

I recommend setting a small aperture of over f/8 to f/22. The larger the f/number the longer the exposure you can achieve and a low ISO of 100.

3. Exposure times

Depending on the strength of the ND filter you are using, your exposure time will change. Based on an initial exposure time of ½ second using a 6-stop filter, you will need to shoot for 30 seconds or 8 minutes using a 10-stop filter, for example.

how to photograph long exposures
Land’s End, Cornwall, England
Canon 5DSR, EF16-35 f2.8L III USM | 1.5sec f/4.5 ISO 100

Press the self-remote timer and lock the shutter open
or if you are using the cameras self-timer press the shutter button gently on
the camera. When you are ready to close the shutter unlock the cable release
(if you are using the self-timer the image will finish by itself).

4. Extra tips

If you are using a DSLR, it is also a good idea to use your mirror lock-up so that the mirror going up and down during your exposure doesn’t cause camera shake. Also, be sure to cover the back of the viewfinder to prevent light from entering and potentially ruining your pictures during the exposure. Many cameras have a little rubber cap that comes attached to the camera strap, to cover your viewfinder. That will stop any light leaking through.

Conclusion

In summary, shooting long exposures is a great technique you can use to enhance landscapes, seascapes and images of water where movement is added to the image by extending the exposure time.

When you are looking at how to photograph long exposures, be sure to get the right kit for the job such as a tripod, filter holder, ND filter and a cable release. Remember to follow the steps required above to capture your long exposures, and share the images you take with us below. It will be great to see what you capture.

If you want to go deeper into long exposures, see this article by DPS writer, Rick Ohnsman.

The post How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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Samyang/Rokinon Announces 14mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.4 Series II lenses

01 Jun

The post Samyang/Rokinon Announces 14mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.4 Series II lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

If you’re looking for a reasonably-priced but high-performing lens or two, then you’re in luck.

dps-samyang-series-II-lenses

Samyang/Rokinon has now announced an update for two of its most popular pieces of glass:

The Samyang 14mm f/2.8 Series II

The 14mm f/2.8 and the 85mm f/1.4.

The Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and the 85mm f/1.4 are already highly-regarded among photographers looking to get strong images while keeping prices low (and who don’t mind full-time manual focus). The ultra-wide focal length of the 14mm is perfect for astrophotography, especially when combined with an f/2.8 maximum aperture. And the f/1.4 aperture on the 85mm is a great way to produce that gorgeous, creamy bokeh that portrait photographers want.

All for under $ 650 USD.

But now, with the announcement of the 14mm f/2.8 Series II and the 85mm f/1.4 Series II, Samyang/Rokinon has taken their product lineup a step further.

The 14mm f/2.8 Series II offers the same optics of the original Samyang 14mm, but now sports a focus lock; this allows you to set your point of focus and hold it in place, which is great for maintaining perfect focus in astrophotography, time-lapse, or other difficult-to-focus situations.

the Samyang 14mm Series II lens offers a de-click and a focus lock function

The Samyang 14mm Series II also features a “de-click” option, so that you can manually change the aperture along a near-infinite spectrum (rather than being forced to work in increments, which is the standard for most lenses). This is a great way to fine-tune your apertures in the field, and it also benefits video shooters who want to subtly alter exposure throughout a recording.

As for the 85mm f/1.4 Series II:

You still get the same excellent sharpness and bokeh, but Samyang has added a “de-click” feature to match the 14mm f/2.8 Series II.

And both lenses now offer weather sealing, which will be appreciated by astrophotographers, landscape photographers, and other outdoor shooters, and will make both lenses an easier sell for photographers that work in adverse conditions.

But perhaps the most enticing thing about the new Samyang lenses is the price:

You’ll be able to grab the 85mm f/1.4 Series II for just $ 400 USD, while the 14mm f/2.8 Series II will come in at $ 500 USD.

Sure, constantly using manual focus may come as a bit of a shock, especially if you’ve never used it before. But you’ll become an expert before long and, at such impressively low prices, these two lenses are hard to pass up.

You can currently preorder both the 85mm f/1.4 Series II and the 14mm f/2.8 Series II for Canon EF, Nikon F, Fujifilm X, MFT, and Canon M mounts.

Now over to you:

Do you have any experience with the original Samyang 85mm and 14mm lenses? What do you think of them? And for those of you who are interested in the new lenses: What do you plan to use them for?

The post Samyang/Rokinon Announces 14mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.4 Series II lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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