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  • Top 5 news stories of the week on DPReview

    Top 5 Photography News Stories of the Week

    The world of photography news moves fast, with tens of interesting, tragic, educational, and inspirational stories breaking sometimes daily. To help parse through the noise and focus on the signal, each week, we’re going to recap the 5 top photography news stories from the previous seven days.

    This week, the tragic story of a young photographer’s death was the most popular—and controversial—of the news stories we covered on DPReview. This was followed by a shocking story of a musician kicking a photographer in the face, an inspirational round up of the best Nature photos of 2017 and, finally, a pricey announcement from Apple and a Leica sensor test rounded out our list.

    Scroll through the slideshow for a quick recap of each story, and then follow any of the big blue buttons to dive deeper.

    Famed Chinese rooftopper falls to his death from 62-story skyscraper

    In November, 26-year-old Chinese rooftopper Wu Yongning fell to his death from atop the 62-story Huayuan Hua Centre skyscraper when a photo stunt for an unnamed sponsor went horribly wrong. The story—and a video of his fall—only came to light this week, shining a tragic light on the dangerous lengths some photographers will go to for an exciting shot.

    Read the Full Story


    Photo: Weibo

    Musician kicks photographer in the face during rock concert, sending her to the ER

    Queens of the Stone Age frontman Josh Homme found himself the subject of heated criticism and disgust this week, after a video and photos seem to show him purposely kicking photographer Chelsea Lauren in the face during a performance.

    His apologies—first over Twitter, and later over Instagram video— have not gone over well.

    Read the Full Story


    Photo: Screenshot from YouTube video

    These are the winners of National Geographic’s Nature Photographer of the Year 2017

    Moving from tragedy and anger to inspiration, National Geographic revealed the winners of its annual Nature Photographer of the Year contest. And as you might have expected, every shot from the Grand Prize winner down to the Honorable Mentions and People’s Choice awards were fantastic.

    The Grand Prize went to photographer Jayaprakash Joghee Bojan of Singapore, who beat out 11,000 other entries with his intense wildlife portrait of an orangutan crossing a river in Indonesia’s Tanjung Puting National Park.

    Read the Full Story


    Photos courtesy of National Geographic Nature Photographer of the Year 2017

    A fully loaded iMac Pro will cost you $ 13,200

    On December 14th, Apple finally put the “most powerful Mac ever,” its new iMac Pro, up for sale. And now that the powerhouse of an all-in-one is live on the Apple Store online, we were able to check how much a fully loaded version would cost you.

    No surprise here: an 18-core iMac Pro with 128GB of RAM, a 4TB SSD and Radeon Pro Vega 64 graphics card costs about as much as a modest sedan!

    Read the Full Story


    Photo: Apple

    DxOMark: The full-frame Leica M10 is ‘on par’ with the best APS-C sensors

    DxOMark finished their review of the Leica M10 sensor this week, giving the sensor an overall score of 86.

    The Good News: this means that the sensor inside the M10 outperforms almost every other digital Leica ever made, coming in second only to the Leica SL with its overall score of 88.

    The Bad News: the expensive camera still falls significantly short of the top-of-the-line full-frame sensors out there, performing “more on par” with the best APS-C sensors DxOMark has tested.

    Read the Full Story


    Photo: DPReview hands-on photo by Barney Britton

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Do you struggle to know what to do with your images in post-processing? Do you know where to start with photo editing? Can you relate to this?

    Before and after photo editing.

    I recently received a message for help from another photographer, “I’m so frustrated with Photoshop. I don’t know what to do or where to even start!?!?” So I asked, “What’s the plan? What are you trying to achieve?” His reply, “I’m not sure…”.

    The uncomfortable truth is that we’ve all been there. Staring at Photoshop wondering which of its tools will achieve the look we’re so desperately trying to replicate. You try clicking on every button, using every tool and creating 1000 different layers to add complexity to your image under the illusion that this will instantly make it awesome.

    Frustrated, you give up. And if you’re anything like me, you probably walk into the kitchen, open the pantry and look for answers inside a packet of cookies.

    This overwhelming hurdle of frustration can cause you to stumble, fall out of love with editing and certainly begin to make everything feel too hard and unachievable. In this tutorial, I’ll show you a very simple technique that will have you soaring over this hurdle so you can continue on your journey to craft beautiful images.

    After some thoughtful and carefully planned out photo editing.

    It’s all in the preparation

    It doesn’t take long for the process of editing in Photoshop to feel chaotic.

    It’s easy to take a look at your photo and instantly get to work by creating a layer on top of layer targeting all sorts of adjustments as you see them. Add a bit of contrast here, some brightness there, sharpen this up and blur that… It’s fast. It’s reactive.

    Before you know it, you’ll have curves in places you didn’t know you had and more level adjustments than an ergonomic office chair.

    You may find yourself stumbling your way through the edit, the process will probably feel a little clunky but you’ll be somewhat happy with the outcome until you click on the next photo. Where the whole process starts again and you don’t know what to do, where to start, and worst of all – you’ve run out of cookies.

    What happens if we remove the chaos?

    Creating beautiful images is a craft. And much like any craft, a lot of unsexy work goes into the preparation before the fun stuff starts happening.

    • Landscape photographers spend their time scouting locations, researching where the sun will set (or rise) and studying the weather before they venture out at 4 am to capture the magic.
    • Quality chefs spend hours sourcing and preparing their ingredients before they serve their masterpieces.
    • Painters clean, dust and prime their brushes and canvas before bringing their vision to life.
    • Authors spend hours creating a structure and a content plan before putting pen to paper.
    • Builders draw up blueprints and intricate floor plans before laying bricks and building houses.

    Preparation is the key to delivering the best possible final version of your craft. Preparation sets up the foundations from which you can begin to form consistency and style, and it helps you focus and stay on track.

    So, what does preparation look like?

    Well, just like a builder doesn’t turn up to a site and randomly lay bricks to build a house, or a Michelin-star chef doesn’t turn up on a night of service and create a menu from what’s laying around in the cupboards. You, as a photographer and image editor, should try to avoid randomly plowing your way through Lightroom or Photoshop, aimlessly slapping on layers and adjustments without creating a plan that details what you are trying to achieve.

    So, when you approach your image – you know what to edit, where to start and what you’re doing. There is no chaos – it’s systematic and as a result, you’re cool, collected, and methodical.

    Pfffft! Who has time to plan!?

    It’s easy to become frustrated with Lightroom and Photoshop. And it’s even easier to buy your way out of it with presets and actions. I get it, you want rapid results, you want to see instant progress, you don’t want to stop, think and plan – you just want to do.

    The truth is, editing beautiful images is a craft. It’s something to take pride in. It’s the final step for you to infuse your images with your personality and style before you share your work with your clients and followers. Therefore, sometimes it’s a good idea to give the editing process a little more love and care than the press of a button.

    Doing so can be the difference between your clients and friends thinking, “Oh that’s nice…” and saying “Oh my! That’s AMAZING! Can I order a copy!?”

    So, if you want to know how to build something beautiful — something with craftsmanship, something you’re proud of, something that your audience will love – spend time on the preparation stage and create a plan for your edits. The reality is, it takes a little more effort than pressing a preset button. Here’s how you can make a simple plan.

    Step #1 – Load Photoshop

    Open your image in Photoshop. You can do this from within Photoshop by navigating to FILE > OPEN and selecting your image. Alternatively, you can load your image into Photoshop from within your Lightroom Library. Do this by right-clicking on your photo inside your Lightroom Library and navigate to EDIT IN > EDIT IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP.

    1 Open Image Photoshop - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Step #2 – Convert to Black and White

    To establish what to edit and where to start with your image, it’s helpful to begin by temporarily removing the distraction of color. This strips back the information and makes it easier for your eyes to clearly see what is going on inside your image. Convert your image to black and white using the Adjustment Layer menu and navigating to Black and White.

    BlackandWhite Adjustment Layer -How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Photoshop BlackandWhite Conversion - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Step #3 – What do you see?

    Ensure that you can see the entire image on your screen. At this stage, you’re only taking a high-level look at your image to get an idea of what catches your eye. Navigate to VIEW > FIT ON SCREEN then hold down CMD (Mac) or CTRL (PC) + press the minus key (-) a couple times to zoom out of the image.

    While looking at your image ask yourself these questions.

    • What story is the photo trying to tell?
    • Where do your eyes get drawn to first?
    • Where do your eyes go next?
    • What elements enhance the story?
    • Which elements weaken the story?

    There’s no need to write an in-depth analysis here. Spend a few seconds on each question and listen to your instincts. What you are trying to do is look at your image from the viewer’s perspective and establish whether or not they are seeing what you want them to see.

    Controlling the attention of your viewer’s eye is crucial to a good photo. It’s about leading them on an uninterrupted journey so they can soak up all the goodness of the story within your image.

    Have you ever tried to read a book or watch a movie while someone is talking to you? It’s distracting, you disengage from the story and lose focus. The same applies to your eyes when you look at a photo. Eyes are easily distracted and the moment this happens you’ll lose your viewer’s attention and the story breaks down. Eliminating these distractions is key to creating stronger images.

    Take a look at your image. As you do so, make a note of the areas, objects, and elements that your eyes are naturally drawn to and settle on. Typically, these areas will be the brightest parts of the image and areas with the most amount of contrast or sharpness. It’s your job to determine whether or not these areas enhance the story or distract the viewer’s attention and therefore weaken the story.

    In the next step, we’ll take a look at this example image and establish the distractions so we can create a simple editing plan.

    4 Thailand Boat Man Before - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Step #4 – Creating your plan

    Create a new layer and rename it “Notes”. On this layer, you can use the brush tool to mark-up the areas of your image that you want to pay attention to based on your answers from step #3.

    5 Photoshop Notes Layer - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    The example image is trying to tell the story of a Thai man taking his boat out on the water for a snorkel while trying to keep cool in the harsh midday sun. However, you may find that your eyes are distracted by the flapping black strap, the rope, and what appears to be a random metal pole protruding into the frame.

    Mark any distractions and things to remove or hide

    With your notes layer selected, use a brightly colored brush to circle the distractions, adding them to your plan. You can also use the Type tool to clarify your thoughts so you don’t forget what your markups are referring to when you go to edit them later.

    6 Remove Distractions - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    7 Reduce Highlight - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Mark elements you want to bring more attention to

    Continue to let your eyes explore the image and mark-up the elements that enhance the story. In the example image, you’ll notice that the subject is wearing a nice pair of sunglasses and that his face is a little dark. Drawing the viewer’s attention to this area will most definitely enhance the story.

    8 Lighten Face Enhance Shades - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    The example image uses a lot of horizontal leading lines such as the horizon, the edge of the boat, and the canopy. While these are effective at leading your eye across the image towards the subject, you don’t want them to be too effective and allow your viewer’s eyes to continue along those lines and off the image.

    A good way to prevent this from happening is to darken the right side of the photo. This will help to control the viewer’s focus by bouncing it back into the frame and onto the subject.

    9 Darken Edges - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Another element of this example that could potentially enhance the story is the light source. Adding a sun or lens flare may help to add some interest and balance out any adjustments made to the subject’s face and sunglasses.

    10 Add Flare - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    View the image in color again

    When you are finished exploring the image and marking-up your notes, it’s a good idea to disable the Black and White adjustment layer you created in step #2 and take a look at the image in full color. As you do so, ask yourself whether the colors you see align and enhance your story or weaken it?

    It’s likely that you’ll find one or two additional distractions in the form of color. These might be objects of a particular color that don’t align with the mood of your story or perhaps an overall color cast that you might want to remove or enhance.

    In the example image, you can see that disabling the Black and White Adjustment Layer reveals a bright pink object that causes a distraction.

    11 Desaturate Pink - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Finally, we can work with the overall color of the image to align with the story. Given that the example image is telling a story about a man trying to keep cool under the hot summer sun, adding a subtle warm-to-cool color tone may help to convey the story and pull the image together.

    12 Colour Transition - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    Step #5 – Create a Group

    When you are finished making your notes it’s time to group them all together. You can do this by clicking on your Black and White adjustment layer, holding down the SHIFT key on your keyboard and clicking on your NOTES layer (and any other Type layers that you may have created).

    13 Shift Click Group - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    With your layers selected, click on the Group icon to put all of your selected layers into a new group. You can then rename the group to “Edit Plan”.

    14 Edit Plan Group - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    With your editing plan in place, you can now systematically work your way through the image. If at any point during your edit you begin to feel a little distracted, lost, or overwhelmed, just refer to your editing plan to get right back on track.

    Here you can see the example image post-edit with minimal distractions. You may notice that your eye settles on the subject’s face a lot quicker than they did before, and it’s easier to absorb the story without the distracting elements.

    Before

    Before

    15 Thailand Boat Man After - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

    After

    Conclusion

    Spending just a few minutes marking-up your photos and creating a plan can have enormous results. It tells you what to edit and where to start, and it provides clarity when the editing fog starts to settle in.

    Yes, it takes a little more time and perhaps it’s not for every image. But if you want to create something with craftsmanship, something beautiful, something your clients and audience will love – it’s worth every second.

    So, I encourage you to spend a little time planning your edits the next time you open up an image in Photoshop. Try to resist the temptation to join the trigger-happy chaos – instead, stop for a minute. Spend twice the time on the preparation, be clear on what you want to achieve, and craft something you’re proud of.

    The post How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop by William Palfrey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Have your say: Best entry-level ILC of 2017

    The most important camera you’ll ever own is the first one you buy. This year was relatively quiet on the entry-level ILC front, but the quality of the cameras released in this market segment was universally excellent. Vote while you can – polls close Monday!

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • The Olympus TG-5 and Nikon Coolpix W300 go to Puerto Rico

    José Francisco Salgado is an astronomer, science photographer, and visual artist. His series of Science & Symphony films that have been presented in more than 200 concerts in 15 countries. He is a native of Puerto Rico.

    Editor’s note: The events described in this article took place several weeks prior to the arrival of Hurricane Maria, which caused catastrophic damage to Puerto Rico and other islands in the Caribbean.


    Last summer I traveled to Puerto Rico to do some night photography for a new Science & Symphony film I’m producing. I was planning to photograph the Milky Way and the ocean at the same time, though it’s difficult to visit tropical beaches and limit yourself to work.

    I shoot my time-lapse sequences with Nikon DSLRs, but decided to bring along two ‘rugged’ cameras, the Nikon Coolpix W300 and Olympus TG-5, for casual shooting. These point-and-shoot cameras are shockproof (rated to resist drops from at least 2.1m / 7ft) and waterproof (to depths of at least 15.2m / 50ft), so my motivation was to use them while snorkeling with my fiancée, Paula.

    She was more than happy to try these cameras, and since she’s not a professional photographer I thought it would be good to get her impressions of them as well. I wanted to find out how intuitive the controls were myself, so I decided to consult the manuals only when needed.

    Olympus TG-5 sample gallery

    $ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_8708008253″,”galleryId”:”8708008253″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

    One big difference between the cameras that’s worth calling out is Raw support: the TG-5 allows you to capture Raw images, but the W300 shoots only in JPEG. I found myself processing the images from both cameras quite a bit in Adobe Lightroom to get pleasing results, though with the Nikon I was limited to editing out-of-camera JPEGs.

    I really like the fact that both cameras have built-in GPS for geotagging photos. (You can read the metadata in the sample galleries if you want to know exactly where these photos were taken.) Unfortunately, after returning from the trip I noticed that the cameras, especially the TG-5, didn’t geotag consistently.

    Nikon W300 sample gallery

    $ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_9166972522″,”galleryId”:”9166972522″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

    Since the W300 doesn’t save Raw files, I’ve included both out-of-camera JPEGs and my edited JPEGs in this sample gallery.

    After landing in San Juan, we headed eastward toward our base in Playa Azul in Luquillo. Playa Azul, aka the Costa Azul, is a beach with golden sand and turquoise water. We took some photos along the surf and started to familiarize ourselves with the cameras. Paula noticed how much easier it was to operate the zoom lever on the TG-5, which is sideways and closer to the shutter, than on the W300, which moves up and down. Nevertheless, the optical zoom itself worked well in both cameras. Paula also preferred the grip on the TG-5.

    We then headed to Cabo Rojo in the southwest corner of the island to photograph the disk of our Galaxy setting in the Caribbean Sea in the context of the rugged coastline and promontory of Los Morrillos. We returned to the site during the day with our point-and-shoot cameras to photograph the coastline and the popular stone bridge.

    Puerto Rico’s Playa Azul has golden sand and turquoise water.
    Olympus TG-5
    ISO 100 | 1/400 sec. | F8
    Photo by Paula Bressman

    After Cabo Rojo, we spent a night at the Punta Tuna Wetlands Nature Reserve in Maunabo in order to photograph The Milky Way and the Punta Tuna Lighthouse. We did some scouting around the wetland and Playa Larga, where we appreciated the advantage of shooting in Raw on the TG-5. In the split-screen image below, you can see how much more information I was able to extract by processing the Raw file in Lightroom.

    Olympus TG-5 (SOOC) Olympus TG-5 (Processed in Lightroom)

    Our next site was Culebra, an island-municipality east of Puerto Rico, which is quickly reached by plane. During the 15-minute flight, Paula captured a nice photo of a young boy transfixed by the view from the small plane using the W300. I was able to pull a bit more shadow detail from the JPEG file, but decided not to so the viewer could focus on the boy’s attentive face.

    Then it was finally time to take the cameras underwater, so we took them to a couple of beaches in Culebra, Playa Melones and Playa Tamarindo. (We preferred Playa Melones due to its abundance of coral reefs and marine life.)

    To use the cameras underwater all you need to do is secure a lock (or two, in the case of the TG-5) and enjoy! Considering that these cameras don’t float, I recommend using the included straps to avoid accidental loss in deep water. Regardless of how much underwater photography you’re interested in doing, it’s good to know that you can bring these cameras into the water instead of leaving them unattended on the beach.

    My fiancée, Paula, captured this photo during our flight to Culebra.
    Nikon W300
    ISO 400 | 1/1000 sec. | F2.8
    Photo by Paula Bressman

    The color rendition on the TG-5’s underwater photos was much better, so I decided to shoot more with it while snorkeling. Underwater, colors change based on lighting conditions, depth, water transparency, and amount of sunlight, so I was also intrigued to see how the TG-5’s flash would perform underwater. I found that many of the images came out overexposed or washed out, so I stuck to using the best natural light possible (read waiting for passing clouds).

    The TG-5 has an Underwater Mode that, according to the manual, is optimized for underwater photography using natural light, so I decided to use it. According to the manual it should automatically set the ISO sensitivity with a priority on image quality. That is, the camera starts with a low ISO value and sets the corresponding exposure parameters (speed and aperture), then increases the ISO value as needed.

    Snorkeling near Playa Tamarindo.
    Olympus TG-5
    ISO 100 | 1/320 sec. | F2.8
    Photo by Jose Francisco Salgado

    As sunlight started to diminish, it surprised me that the TG-5 would lower the speed all the way down to 1/60 second while maintaining ISO 100 instead of increasing the ISO! I understand that auto-ISO increases the ISO as a last recourse, but I was shooting in Underwater Mode. This mode should consider that sea currents are moving the photographer, who is often trying to capture moving fish or other animals. A speed of 1/60 second won’t cut it.

    I decided to manually change the ISO to a higher value, but alas, it was impossible to figure out how to change this setting without reading the manual, and therein lies my frustration. I can deal with a program mode not giving the results that I expect, however I do expect to be able to look at the buttons and quickly figure out how to change the parameters that I need to change. The problem wasn’t pressing small buttons underwater, but not having an intuitive way to change values. As a result, some of the sea creatures I photographed are motion-blurred. Nevertheless, I’m content the photos I got of the carey de concha (Hawksbill sea turtle).

    Throughout a day of snorkeling I got the impression that battery life on the W300 was underwhelming compared to the TG-5.

    Shooting underwater with the Olympus TG-5.

    On our last day in Culebra, stormy weather moved into the Caribbean. Conditions were windy, but safe, so we hopped into our rented golf cart and ventured out to enjoy two beaches which have been rated among the most beautiful in the world, Playa Flamenco and Playa Zoní.

    Upon arrival at the Playa Zoní, it took us sixty seconds to make new friends, Magdamarys, Michelle, and Javier. Michelle, an awesome salsa dance instructor, proceeded to teach Paula how to salsa as seen in the video below, shot with the W300. It was the perfect way to end our stay in Culebra.

    I captured this salsa dancing at Playa Zoní, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, using the Nikon W300.

    Back on the main island, we used the cameras one last time in El Yunque Rainforest, where Paula enjoyed the cool and refreshing water of the Juan Diego Waterfall.

    Video of the Juan Diego Waterfall in El Yunque Rainforest, captured by the Olympus TG-5.

    Final Thoughts

    Although we didn’t drop or mishandle these cameras, they appear to be very rugged. They’re definitely waterproof, and it was easy to operate them underwater, however the user interfaces could be much simpler. I have apps on my iPhone than can control the camera in a simpler and more intuitive way than either of these cameras. Then there’s image quality. Lack of Raw support on the W300, and the poor image quality of the resulting JPEG files, disqualifies the camera for me.

    Although I appreciated having more processing latitude with the TG-5’s Raw files, that doesn’t mean I’m very impressed with the image quality either. Nevertheless, it’s definitely superior to the image quality produced by the W300, even when comparing out-of-camera JPEGs. When processing images from the TG-5 be ready to correct for chromatic aberration, because it can be severe (this wasn’t an issue with the W300).

    Although I appreciated having more processing latitude with the TG-5’s Raw files, that doesn’t mean I’m very impressed with the image quality either.

    The TG-5 also failed to focus several times under normal indoor lighting conditions, including once outside right after sunset. I didn’t encounter any focusing issues with the W300. I was also happy to see that the TG-5 has a panorama feature, but it completely failed several times and produced horribly stitched images.

    These cameras are a great option for you if you’re looking for a rugged point-and-shoot camera that works underwater, which is their main strength. If you’re just looking for a camera that’s more compact than a DSLR, or that has a better zoom range than your smartphone, they’ll work for that as well. However, considering the prices, you might also want to consider other compact cameras or even stick with your smartphone.

    Readers wishing to contribute to ongoing hurricane relief efforts in Puerto Rico are encouraged to visit United for Puerto Rico.


    José Francisco Salgado, PhD is an Emmy-nominated astronomer, science photographer, visual artist, and public speaker who creates multimedia works that communicate science in engaging ways. His Science & Symphony films with KV 265 have been presented in more than 200 concerts and lectures in 15 countries.

    José Francisco is a seasoned night sky and aurora photographer and filmmaker. If you would like to view, photograph, and learn about the Northern Lights then you can inquire about his Borealis Science & Photo Tours in Yellowknife, Canada.

    You can follow him on: Flickr, Instagram, 500px, Facebook, and Twitter

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Have your say: Best mid-range ILC of 2017

    This year saw several cameras released in the mid-range ILC class, from full-frame DSLRs to super-compact APS-C mirrorless models. Take a look for a reminder of the key mid-range ILCs released in 2017, and don’t forget to vote for your favorites.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • DxOMark: The full-frame Leica M10 is ‘on par’ with the best APS-C sensors

    DxOMark has just finished a new sensor test, and for once it’s not a “highest rated camera in the world” announcement. Instead, the testing and consulting company put the new Leica M10 to the test to see how it compares to the rest of the luxury brand’s lineup. The results: they’re calling it “a classic reinvented.”

    Unlike the top-scoring Nikon D850 and Sony a7R III—both of which scored 100 and sit at the top of DxO’s full-frame sensor rankings—the M10 pulls in a meeker score of 86. However, that still makes it the second highest scoring Leica ever, just behind the Leica SL with an overall score of 88.

    What’s intriguing is that, in terms of sensor performance, the Leica M10 actually scores “more on par” with the best APS-C chips DxO has tested, outperforming them significantly only in the low-light ISO category thanks to its physically larger sensor:

    Image: DxOMark

    DxO summed up these results well for us in an email:

    Overall, better image quality can be found elsewhere for less money, but the Leica offers first-class engineering, and a digital camera with similar proportions to analog M cameras will be hugely appealing to Leica enthusiasts. Add to that compatibility with almost all Leica lenses ever made, as well as its simplicity of operation, and the M10 will be an attractive proposition to those who appreciate the quality of the Leica system.

    No doubt a good chunk of our readers will bold-face and underline what DxO said above: “better image quality can be found elsewhere for less money.” But does the massive lens library, top-notch engineering, ‘simplicity of operation,’ and that pretty red dot help balance out the cost at all?

    Head over to DxOMark to read the full review, and let us know what you think about these results in the comments.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Portraits

    There is something very appealing about the simplicity of a portrait in black in white. It becomes less about the setting, background and environment and more about the person being photographed.

    This week we want to see what you can do to create your best black and white portraits. Here are some articles to help if you need assistance:

    • How to Create Good Black and White Portraits
    • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
    • 3 Simple Steps to Craft Better Black and White Photos
    • Avoid These 5 Common Mistakes in Black and White Photography
    • A Guide to Black and White Conversion in Photoshop
    • A Guide to Black and White Conversion in Lightroom

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Portrait

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Portraits by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Canon patents 400mm F5.6 catadioptric ‘mirror’ lens

    This diagram of the light path through Canon’s newly-patented 400mm catadioptric lens shows how the mirrors help to ‘fold’ the light path and decrease the size of the lens.

    A new Canon lens patent out of Japan has been raising eyebrows around the photo community this week. The patent describes a 400mm F5.6 lens, which wouldn’t necessarily be newsworthy… except that it’s a catadioptric lens (also known as a ‘mirror’ or ‘reflex’ lens).

    Catadioptric lenses went ‘out of style’ so-to-speak many years ago, but for a time they offered economical and compact alternatives to standard long telephoto lenses. The optical design of these lenses use mirrors to both ‘fold’ the optical path and magnify the image coming in, allowing for a far more compact design.

    Take, for example, this Vivitar Series 1 600mm F8 catadioptric lens:

    Vivitar Series 1 600mm f/8 Solid Catadioptric Lens | Photo by pointnshoot (CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Other advantages of a catadioptric lens design includes very nearly eliminating chromatic aberration and off-axis aberration; but, of course, this kind of lens design doesn’t come without its drawbacks.

    There are two main issues, both of them caused by the central mirrors causing an obstruction in the middle of the lens.

    The first of these is that you can’t use a standard diaphragm aperture system, a problem this Canon patent seems to ‘solve’ by using a variable density ‘electrochromic’ filter to ‘stop down’ the lens—although this will obviously not have any impact on depth of field.

    The second problem is the donut-shaped bokeh produced by catadioptric lenses:

    Donut Bokeh Example | Photo by Hustvedt (CC BY-SA 2.0)

    In the end, it seems manufacturers (or consumers) decided that the drawbacks of catadioptric lenses were not worth the ultra-compact design. But as more and more photographers seek to lighten their kit, maybe Canon sees an opportunity to bring the ‘mirror lens’ back into public consciousness.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Disney’s 21st Century Fox acquisition means it will now own National Geographic

    Earlier this week, a major entertainment industry merger was announced: Disney is planning to buy 21st Century Fox for a whopping $ 52.4 billion. But while this might seem unrelated to the world of photography at first blush, a closer look reveals something pretty important.

    If the purchase is allowed to go through, Disney will be the majority stake holder in National Geographic, taking over the 73% controlling share that Fox purchased in September of 2015.

    In the scope of the entire deal, Fox’s share in National Geographic might seem like small potatoes—the entertainment giant bought Nat Geo for just $ 725 million (less that 1/50th what THEY are being bought for) and immediately set about cutting costs further by slashing 9% of Nat Geo’s workforce. But fans of the iconic brand will pay close attention to see what Disney plans to do with it.

    For now, all we know is that National Geographic will join Pixar, ESPN, Marvel and many more well-known brands in Disney’s so-called “swollen portfolio” of entertainment assets.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Broncolor releases HSS-capable RFS 2.2 flash trigger for Fujifilm cameras

    Broncolor has launched the RFS 2.2 F for Fujifilm cameras. The new transmitter-receiver was made in collaboration with Godox, making it possible for Fujifilm owners to use broncolor’s pack systems and monolights. When used with supported products, namely broncolor’s Move and Siros lines, RFS 2.2 F supports high speed flash sync speeds up to 1/8000s. The device is also backward compatible with Senso, Scoro, and other RFS 2-enabled products.

    The transceiver, which was previously launched for Canon, Nikon, and Sony, features a rotary control wheel alongside a backlit LCD and PC sync/hot shoe pass-through. Likewise, the RFS 2.2 F supports up to 99 studio channels with up to 40 lamp groups per channel. Radio connectivity range spans up to 100m / 300ft.

    Broncolor says the RFS 2.2 for Fujifilm is available as a preorder for $ 112, with shipping planned to start “later in December.” But as The Phoblographer noted yesterday, Godox itself offers a very similar Fujifilm HSS transmitter for less than half the cost, at $ 46.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)