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  • Ricoh announces new service and support plan for Pentax 645Z

    Ricoh Imaging US has announced the Medium Format by PENTAX Advantage Program, a new support and service offering for the Pentax 645Z camera. Under this program, camera owners are given three years of extended service and support from the date of purchase, as well as loaner lenses and camera bodies and a toll-free support number. Read more

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • M & M: Leica SL Typ 601 real-world gallery updated with M-series lens samples

    The Leica SL Typ 601 is the German manufacturer’s first foray into the full-frame mirrorless world, offering a 24MP CMOS sensor in a weather-sealed, milled-aluminum body. Three SL lenses have been introduced for the system, but an M-mount adapter opens up a number of possibilities for the camera. We took advantage of some limited time to shoot with the SL and the Summilux-M 35mm F1.4 ASPH and 50mm F1.4 – see what the combination looks like. Read more

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Plug & Play Homes: Mobile Modules Slot into Urban Frameworks

    [ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

    kasita slot box homes

    Coming to Austin next year, this mobile housing strategy takes portable living out of trailer parks, plugging you straight into the city grid and allowing you to easily hop metropolises on demand (at the tap of an app). Denver, Portland, Brooklyn, Stockholm, Seattle, Chicago, Los Angeles and Manhattan are also on the list.

    kasita home office cube

    Kasita has created a system of prefabricated units that pack hideaway furniture but also a full kitchen, washer and dryer into a 208-square-foot living space. The real trick, though, is in the supporting framework – a grid-like structure into (and out of) which these units slot.

    kasita modular wall panels

    More than just a wrapper for a box, these allow external elements like staircases for circulation, patios and decks to remain in place while the core modules move around.

    kasita kitchen bathroom

    Initial deployment will take place in Austin, Texas, and the units will cost $ 600 a month, but as they roll out in other cities, the project will take on an additional dimension. Eventually, users will be able to swap into new slots in other cities on short notice and without packing a thing.

    kasita modular interior design

    kasitam modular urban houses

    A collaboration between Professor Jeff Wilson, a teacher already famous for living in a tiny dumpster for a year, and Frog, an industrial design firm, this project was inspired as much by the sleek simplicity of the iPhone as it was by other container-type home projects.

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    [ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

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    WebUrbanist

  • 27. Oktober 2015

    Das Bild des Tages von: Felix Pacholleck

    Ein Mann ist dabei, eine Gitarre auf den Boden vor einer Betonwand mit einem großen Kreuz zu schlagen.

    Im Ausblick: Die Frage nach der Schönheit, Leidenschaft finden und verlassene Villen.
    kwerfeldein – Fotografie Magazin | Fotocommunity

  • How to Use the Local Adjustments Tools Inside Lightroom

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Whenever you take a photo, no matter what the subject, it would be extremely unusual if it couldn’t be improved in some way by making local adjustments in Lightroom.

    Local adjustments affect part of the image. Whenever you carry out any processing action in Lightroom you are either making a local adjustment (only affects part of the image) or a global adjustment (affects the entire image).

    If you have been following this series and trying out some of the techniques I wrote about in my earlier Lightroom articles that you have been mainly making global adjustments. There is an exception. Adding a vignette in the Effects panel is a local adjustment because it affects the edges of the image but not the centre.

    Lightroom gives you three powerful tools for making local adjustments. They are the Adjustment Brush, the Graduated filter, and Radial filter.

    The Adjustment Brush

    The Adjustment Brush is for creating an odd shaped mask – one that can’t be made easily with the Graduated or Radial filters.

    Local adjustments in LightroomNote that masks work differently in Lightroom than in Photoshop. In Photoshop, the adjustment is applied to the area that isn’t covered by the mask. In Lightroom, the adjustment is applied to the area covered by the mask.

    Creating a mask in Lightroom is the same as making a selection in Photoshop. Go to the Develop module and click the Adjustment Brush icon (marked on the right) or use the keyboard shortcut K.

    The Adjustment Brush panel opens up underneath the icon. The first 14 sliders show the adjustments you can make with this tool. The Effect menu contains a number of presets that you can use (click the word “Custom” to see the pull-down menu).

    At the bottom (circled) are sliders for setting the size, softness and strength of the Adjustment Brush.

    To start, select Brush A (if not already selected) and use the [ and ] keys to make the brush smaller or larger respectively, until it is the right size to create the mask you need. You can also use the Size slider, but the keyboard shortcuts are easiest.

    Hold down the Shift key and use the [ or ] to adjust the amount of feathering. Again, you can use the Feather slider but the keyboard shortcuts are faster once you get to know them.

    The size of the Adjustment Brush is shown by two concentric circles on the screen. The inner circle shows the area fully covered by the brush. The outer circle shows more or less where the effect of feathering ends. The distance between the circles increases when you increase the feathering amount. This diagram shows how it looks on screen.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    You can create another Adjustment Brush by clicking on B and changing the parameters. You can switch between the A and B brushes whenever you like, useful for complex retouching.

    Select Erase to delete part of the mask that you have created. You can adjust the size and feathering of the Erase brush as well.

    Flow controls the opacity of the mask. 100 is full strength. Set it here unless you have a reason to do otherwise.

    Density sets the maximum strength of the effect.

    The difference between Density and Flow is this. If you set Flow to 25% and repeatedly brush over part of the image, each brush mark builds on the one below it, increasing the strength of the effect until you reach 100%. If you set Density to 50%, and flow to 25%, then repeatedly brush, the maximum strength you can reach is 50%.

    This diagram shows the difference. On the left I set the Exposure slider to +4.00, Flow to 25%, Density to 50% and brushed repeatedly. On the right I did the same with Density set to 100%.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Tick the Auto Mask box to limit the edges of the mask to any edges in the photo. Sometimes this tool works well, but other times it reacts to textures and creates a patchy mask that doesn’t cover the area you want. I leave this unticked most of the time.

    You can add as many Adjustment Brushes to an image as you like. Each one is represented by a grey dot that is revealed when you select the Adjustment brush tool and move the mouse over the photo. The current Adjustment Brush is marked by a black circle within the grey pin. Click on a grey dot to activate that adjustment and make changes to it, or delete it (press the Backspace key).

    Now, let’s put that into practice. I’d like to do two things to the photo below. One is reduce the intensity of the highlights created by the lights inside the church; the second is emphasize the texture of the stone. We can do both with the Adjustment Brush.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    First, I brushed in the areas affected by the bright highlights (shown in green below).

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    You can see the area covered by the Adjustment Brush at any time by pressing the O key.

    This is called the Mask Overlay and is coloured green in my screen shots. The default colour is red. Press the Shift and O keys together to change it. Press O again to hide the Mask Overlay.

    Then I moved the Highlights slider left (to -67) to reduce the intensity of the highlights. These screen shots show the difference.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Next, I created a new mask covering the stonework.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Then I increased Clarity to +58 to bring out the texture of the stone wall.

    Here’s the final result, compared to the original.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Here are some more uses for the Adjustment Brush:

    • Portrait retouching. Use the Adjustment Brush to select the model’s skin and apply the Soften Skin preset. You can also enhance eyes by increasing exposure and Clarity.
    • Enhancing black and white photos. Many black and white images rely heavily on texture for impact. Use the Adjustment Brush to select the textured areas you would like to have the most impact, and increase Clarity to enhance them.
    • Selectively desaturating the background to add impact to portraits.

    My article, Four Ways to Improve your Photos with the Clarity Slider in Lightroom, shows you how to do it.

    The Graduated filter

    Lightroom’s Graduated filter is named after the type of filter used by landscape photographers to make skies darker.

    This is also the most obvious use for Lightroom’s Graduated filter. However, it only works if detail was recorded in the sky. it doesn’t replace a physical graduated neutral density filter.Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Go to the Develop module and click the Graduated filter icon (marked right), or click the keyboard shortcut – M. The Graduated filter panel opens, revealing the same sliders as the Adjustment Brush.

    Click and hold the left mouse button down, and pull the mouse down over the image. Lightroom adds a Graduated filter to the photo.

    The Graduated filter is marked by three lines that move further apart as you move the mouse across the photo. The lines represent the softness of the filter – the further they are apart, the more graduation you get.

    Let go of the mouse button to place the filter. If you do so close to the edge of the photo, you will create a filter with three lines close together. This is a hard filter, with a rapid graduation between full effect and no effect.

    If you hold the mouse button down for longer, you get a filter with three lines spaced far apart. This is a soft filter, with a gentle graduation between full effect and no effect.

    The two types of filter are shown below. I pressed the O key to show the Mask Overlay (you can only do this in Lightroom 6 and Lightroom CC).

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    After creating the filter, you can move it by clicking and dragging the central pin.

    If you hold the Shift key down while creating the filter, it is placed parallel to the edge that you started from.

    To rotate the filter, hold the mouse over the central line (the one with the pin) until the cursor changes from a plus sign to a curly double arrow. Hold the left mouse button down and move the mouse to rotate the filter.

    To change the softness of the filter, hold the mouse over the outer line until the cursor changes to a hand. Click and drag to move the line closer to, or further from, the central line. If you hold the Alt key down while you do so, the central line stays in position.

    The best way to come to grips with this is to try it out. It may sound complex, but it’s quite simple, and you’ll quickly get the hang of it.

    Here’s an example of how you can use the Graduated filter to improve an image. The water behind these boats is very bright, and I wanted to make it darker to fit in with the foreground. The Graduated filter is the perfect tool for this. Before and After photos shown below.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    In Lightroom 6 and Lightroom CC you can combine the Graduated filter with the Adjustment Brush. The Adjustment Brush is used to alter the shape of the mask created by the Graduated filter.

    In this example, I used the Graduated filter to darken the sky. The only problem is that the Graduated Filter also makes the palm tree darker, which I don’t want. Here’s the Mask Overlay (shown in red).

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Press O to show the Mask Overlay, then click on the word Brush in the Graduated filter panel (marked below). The Brush options open up below the panel. Click Erase (also marked below) and adjust the size (and other settings) to suit.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Here’s what the Mask Overlay looks like with the part that covers the palm tree erased.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Here are the before and after versions.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Before (left) showing the graduated filter to darken the sky. After (right) showing the tree portion having been erased or masked out from being darkened by the graduated filter.

    My article Improve Your Images with the Lightroom Graduated Filter Tool shows you six ways you can use the Graduated filter to improve your photos.

    The Radial filter

    The Radial filter (new in Lightroom 5) is for creating circle or oval shaped masks. If you have Lightroom 6 or Lightroom CC you can press O to show the Mask Overlay. You can also combine the Radial filter with the Adjustment Brush.Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Go to the Develop module and click the Radial filter icon (marked right). The Radial filter panel opens. The sliders are the same as those used by the Graduated filter and the Adjustment Brush.

    Hold the left mouse button down and drag the mouse across the photo. Let the mouse button go when you are done.

    Change the size and shape of the Radial filter by clicking and dragging the four white squares at the compass points of the filter.

    Rotate the Radial filter by moving the cursor to the edge of the filter until it changes from a hand or plus icon to a double curly arrow. Click and drag to rotate.

    Use the Feather slider to set the softness of the gradient at the edges of the Radial filter. The default setting of 50 seems to work well for most masks, but you can change it if you need to.

    By default Lightroom applies the adjustments to the area outside the Radial filter. Tick the Invert Mask box to apply the adjustments to the area inside it instead.

    The screenshot below shows a Radial filter that I placed on photo used in the previous demonstration. I ticked the Invert Mask box to apply the adjustment to the area inside the Radial filter. The Mask Overlay is on to show you the affected area (in red).

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Then I increased Exposure to bring out some detail in the palm tree. Before and after versions below.

    Local adjustments in Lightroom

    Here are some uses for the Radial filter:

    • Portrait retouching. Select eyes or lips and enhance using exposure and Clarity sliders.
    • Making portrait backgrounds darker. Place a Radial filter over the model’s face and make the background darker.
    • Add a vignette to off-centre subjects. When you create a vignette in the Effects panel, it is always centred. With the Radial filter, you can place it wherever you need.

    In my next article I’ll show you how to harness the power of Lightroom using Virtual Copies. Until then, if you have any questions about the techniques in this article, or you would like to share how you use local adjustments in Lightroom, please let us know in the comments.


    The Mastering Lightroom CollectionMastering Lightroom ebooks

    My Mastering Lightroom ebooks will help you get the most out of Lightroom. They cover every aspect of the software from the Library module through to creating beautiful images in the Develop module. Click the link to learn more or buy.

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    The post How to Use the Local Adjustments Tools Inside Lightroom by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • DxOMark Mobile report: Motorola Droid Turbo 2

    The Droid Turbo 2 is Motorola’s latest high-end device, bearing a 21MP sensor and an F2.0 aperture. Camera specs are mostly shared with the Moto X Style, but the new provides a more powerful Qualcomm Snapdragon 810 chipset, shatter-proof display and a battery good for 48 hours on a single charge. With a DxOMark Mobile score of 84 the Droid Turbo 2 cracks DxOMark’s top mobile rankings. Read more

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 6 Ways to Use Live View to Get Sharper Images

    The LED monitor on the back of a camera is most often used to review captured images. But here’s a tip: Live View can also be a useful tool, helping you to focus your camera before taking the shot. In fact, Live View may be the most accurate means of focusing a camera. Let’s take a look at six ways you might use Live View to focus.

    1 – Focus Stacking

    Use live view to focus on different depths of field to use for focus stacking

    Use Live View to focus at different distances for focus stacking.

    Focus Stacking is similar in principle to HDR. However, when doing Focus Stacking, images are captured with different parts of the image in focus, then combined in Photoshop to create an image with more depth of field than would be possible with a single exposure. This method is a useful tool when doing macro photography. Calm winds are a must to capture focus stacking images. Use Live View to accurately focus each image. Here is the step-by-step outline of the process:

    1. Set up your camera on a sturdy tripod (a must!)
    2. Frame or compose the image
    3. Turn on Live View
    4. Zoom the Live View in so you can adjust the focus of each image to different distances
    5. Use Photoshop to process and blend the stacked images

    2 – Manual Trap Focus for Macro Photography

    Use live view to manually trap focus a macro photography subject.

    Use Live View to manually trap focus a macro photography subject.

    Manual Trap Focus can also be useful in macro photography. Set your camera to manual focus, and using Live View move the camera until the subject is in focus. Used in conjunction with a focusing rail on a tripod, or hand held, move the camera to focus the image. Another benefit of this method is that it also gives you a Live View of the depth of field for the image you plan to capture. See steps below to give this method a try:

    1. Set camera to manual focus
    2. Turn the focus ring on your lens to the closest focus distance
    3. Turn on Live View
    4. Move your camera closer to your subject until it is in focus. (Using a focusing rail can help you master this method.)

    To fine-tune the focus, use the zoom feature in Live View to get the most accurate focus point possible.

    3 – Focus on any point in your scene

    Live View is not restricted to the usual focusing points in your camera’s main focusing system. Most newer camera models will have 51 or more focusing points. However, these points are clustered around the center of the image. In Live View, you can move your focusing point all the way out to the edge of the image.

    4 – More Accurate Focus

    Use live focus to zoom in for a more accurate focus on waterfalls.

    Use Live View focus to zoom-in for a more accurate focus on waterfalls.

    Live View also provides a more accurate focus than a camera’s main auto focusing system. The Live View system is based on the contrast of the image actually captured by the camera’s sensor. It is slower-focusing than your camera’s regular phase detection autofocus system, but it is more accurate. This works great for focusing in on subjects within landscape, and portraiture where a slower-focusing method doesn’t affect the ability to capture the shot.

    5 – Manual Focus in Low Light

    When photographing in low light situations, such as astrophotography, auto focusing often fails to provide a desirable result. Using Live View, in conjunction with manual focusing, can help obtain a sharp image. While in Live View, use the zoom to enlarge the subject’s image and then use manual focus to tweak the photo’s sharpness.

    Use live view to focus when capturing low light images.

    Use live view to focus when capturing low light images.

    6 – Focusing on the Eyes

    For the most compelling portraiture and wildlife photography, the most important focus is on the eye(s) of the subject. Using Live View, it is possible to isolate the eye for either auto focus or a manual focus. This method is limited to images that are posed, or with little movement.

    Use live view to focus on the eye to fine-tune the focus in select wildlife images.

    Use Live View to focus on the eye to fine-tune the focus in select wildlife images.

    Conclusion

    These are just a few ways that you can use Live View mode to focus your camera. Remember that using these methods will be much harder on your battery life. Always keep a spare, fully charged, battery with you when you are shooting. If you have any other ideas for using Live View for focusing, please leave them in the comments below.

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    The post 6 Ways to Use Live View to Get Sharper Images by Bruce Wunderlich appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • The Rule of Thirds – How it Can Help or Hinder Your Composition

    How compositional rules can help or hinder your composition

    Creating good photographs, and becoming a good photographer, is in general, not just about learning about your camera and all the rules of composition. These help, but while you should know your camera and have a good knowledge of technique, the biggest challenge you need to give yourself is learning to expand your perception, of the world and learn to see the world as it really is. Our minds are basically full of distractions – endless thoughts about our needs, wants, and to do lists. It’s a bit like living in a bubble which you need to break out of, so that you are fully able to see what’s happening around you, and not be distracted by your mind.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 02

    “It takes a lot of imagination to be a good photographer. You need less imagination to be a painter because you can invent things. But in photography everything is so ordinary; it takes a lot of looking before you learn to see the extraordinary.” – David Bailey

    I think the rules of composition, and in particular the Rule of Thirds, are a great way to develop your perception. It’s not a rule you should learn and then overlay on all of your images, or your view of the world.

    For me rules are a way to train your eye, so that eventually you can unleash its wild creativity. The creativity that is totally unique to you and exists in no other person.

    Rules of composition:

    • Do work and help you create excellent compositions – but don’t use them all the time (don’t use anything all of the time)
    • Help you develop your perception and train your eye to see the wonders of the world
    • Create harmony between your subject and its setting

    My philosophy with rules is always, “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” (Picasso said that by the way, not me).

    20130116_tomi_188

    Use them like a tool box

    I like to think of the rules of composition as a little tool box that you can draw from in different ways, and in different variations. They aren’t always necessary, but they are super useful for helping your mind be both disciplined and focused, as well as creative, free, and wild.

    So – what is the Rule of Thirds?

    I love the rule of thirds because it’s a very simple, and easy concept to understand. It’s one of the key compositional rules (others include: leading lines and natural framing) that many photographers use to enhance their compositions. Although it can be tricky initially to bring it into your photos, once you start composing using the Rule of Thirds, it will immediately give your photographs a feeling of flow and depth; as well as helping them look balanced, creating an easy path for the eye of the viewer.

    The rule of thirds breaks the image up into nine equal squares. Where the lines intersect we call these Points of Interest. The rule works by placing your subject, and other elements, along the lines and at the points of interest. Most cameras will have the option to overlay this grid on the viewing screen, so turn it on if that helps.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 01

    The human eye is naturally drawn to the these points of interest. It won’t generally look in the centre of an image first, unless there is a particularly arresting subject drawing the eye there.

    Why use the rule of thirds?

    Generally placing your subject off-balance, then using one, two or several other elements within the frame, placed at the points of interest, creates a much more visually appealing photo than having your subject dead centre. It:

    • Creates balance
    • Adds more complexity to an image than just placing your subject in the centre
    • Creates energy
    • Gives your photo a sense of depth, rather than just being a flat image

    20151008_istanbul_001

    What’s very important also, is that you have one or two other elements within the frame that balance or create energy, tension or harmony with your subject. It’s not enough to just have your subject off-centre. Let’s look at some examples.

    Let’s start simply. Rule of thirds can be applied to your horizon line. Don’t put it in the middle, use it to run along the top or bottom third of the image:

    This is more unusual to do than you imagine. Of the thousands of photos I have with a horizon line only a handful are not running along the centre of the image.

    With every technique you use, there has got to be a reason for doing it. Otherwise you just see technique. I used it in the photo above (at the top of the article) because the clouds and sky were so much more interesting than the foreground, and below, because the light on the water was beautiful.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 03

    You can also apply the idea of having lines run along the upper or lower third of your image to things other than the horizon. Here I’ve applied it to some well organized rubbish bags. Notice that the line of bags follows the bottom horizontal line, but that it’s also emphasized by the line of the pavement and double yellow line at the bottom? These elements create energy – giving it perhaps a sense of movement and flow. Then you have the vertical lines and brickwork patterns as a contrast. All of this order of lines and patterns are very pleasing to the eye. The mind is always looking for order within the chaos of the world!

    ROTAnthonyEpes 04

    It’s important to say that I am not walking around looking for pictures that fit into the rule of thirds, or any of the other composition rules. But when I find a subject I’m interested in (I believe passion for your subject is the most important thing in your photography) and I am composing, looking for elements etc., then that’s when the rules are really helpful. Once you really get familiar with the rules, then you can start to adapt them to your own creative vision.

    I have a passion for urban decay, you might call it. In the image below, instead of placing the ball and the column dead centre, I placed it in the left third of the frame. The other elements that are balancing it out are the ring on the floor, the lines going horizontally along the image, connecting with the points of interest lines, and then in the top third of the photo we have the notice on the wall. Take away the notice and the ring, and you’d have a much plainer, less interesting image.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 05

    Below is one of my favourite photos of London. Here you have the old street lamp hitting the two left hand points of interest, and the wheel of the London Eye in the bottom right corner. You could say that there are only two elements in this photo – a primary and a supporting secondary in juxtaposition. The street lamp being the primary element is placed on the first third and is without a doubt the main subject. But by adding the London Eye as the secondary element we now have a sense of place, and the relationship is complete. It says, “This is London!”

    ROTAnthonyEpes 06

    I like that the third element in the image below is the blue background, which helps the image feel clean. But because of the balancing elements of the woman and the sign, it’s not overly simple.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 07

    In the photo below is a rough adherence to the Rule of Thirds. Can you see where I placed the elements and why? Do you think this was the best way to compose the image? What’s important for me is that it’s not just a photo of a skeleton – it’s a photo of a skeleton in a very beautiful place. I find that lots of photographers will get absolutely mesmerized by their subject and start taking photos before absorbing the whole scene (you know that time when you get your images up on the computer and wonder why they don’t look as great as you thought they were going to, this is often due to not taking in the whole scene).

    ROTAnthonyEpes 08

    A very interesting skeleton it is, and unusual to come across. But there is also the element of perspective and the upper third being an almost ethereal sky. If you take away the sky the photo wouldn’t pop, would it? By placing the subject nearer the lower third I’ve created space for it to rest in.

    Rule of thirds will help you capture beauty

    Most people are able to appreciate, and see, the beauty and harmony of nature on a large scale – that epic view of a sunset over a beach, the vast meadow of beautiful flowers. But when you put a camera up to your eye, and reduce an image to a much smaller scale, I think most people lose that ability to see the harmony of the world, and thereby its beauty. The rule of thirds will help you see how to create harmony and balance within your photo, by helping you when you are placing your elements within your frame.

    And now to Venice. This photo below is a bit more complicated, but let’s look at what elements are the most important. The man, definitely. He is bang on one of the points of interest. Now notice how the change of colour and texture of the building runs along one of the lines.

    There is some of the structure of the rule of thirds but that’s not the whole story here. So you can use elements of the rule of thirds and then add in your own ideas and elements. It’s all flexible. Play with it.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 09

    Let the rules help you be excellent

    You can sometimes use the rule of thirds to almost repair your image, by cropping. All processing programs will have the grid available, and I know that some photographers will overlay the grid and crop their image to fit these rules. I am not a fan of any kind of regular cropping. Why? Because I think in general it makes you a lazy photographer. Don’t rely on anything after the fact to make your photo better, when you can capture something in-frame now. By all means use things to enhance an already good photo, but no bad photo can be saved in post-production.

    But – if you love post production, and you want that to be what defines your images, that’s fine. But become awesome at that, be excellent. What unifies all photographers who are taking consistently excellent photos is they are committed to excellence in their own way. That I can get behind.

    ROTAnthonyEpes 10

    We all come to rules differently. I’ve noticed in my workshops that not everyone has an affinity for absorbing rules, and putting them into practise. Maybe the idea of a more technical basis for your photography makes you squirm. But I would really encourage you to stick with it. Even if it takes a while for you to absorb this, the technical aspects of photography really give you a good grounding, so that you have the ability to take the photographs that you see in your mind’s eye.

    If you are more of a technical rules-based person, my advice is to try and propel yourself away from the rules. I’ve noticed that people who get too involved in rules of composition, and their camera buttons, often find it difficult to really see what’s going on around them. So learn the rules, but then really push yourself to see beyond them.

    So go explore and take the rules with you. Learn them, play with them and have fun.

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    The post The Rule of Thirds – How it Can Help or Hinder Your Composition by Anthony Epes appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Ruins to Art: Timber Addition Transforms Abandoned Building

    [ By Steph in Abandoned Places & Architecture. ]

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    An abandoned traditional building on the coast of Madalena, Portugal has come back to life with a sculptural wooden extension that emerges from the back like a living organism. Cella Bar by FCC Arquitectura and Paulo Lobo leaves the original structure intact, merging the vernacular architecture with a wholly modern aesthetic in pale curving timber.

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    Missing elements of the abandoned building, like the doors and windows, were restored to make it look just as it did when it was first built, minus the charming weathering on the stones. The interiors were transformed to suit the building’s new purpose as a restaurant, the wooden floors flowing out the rear doors, onto the original terrace and continuing onto the roof of the addition.

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    “The new extension is a contemporary creation, exposed to a completely different language,” say the architects. “It is an organic, dynamic construction that contrasts with the orthogonal, classic language of the building where it is embedded. The design is defined by great plasticity, both in terms of forms and materials, and is markedly inspired by the natural environment around the site. Several features of that environment are present in the architecture of the building, including the outline of the island, rocks, whales and wine casks. The new volume acts like a giant sculpture, tailored for its location.”

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    [ By Steph in Abandoned Places & Architecture. ]

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  • Feministische Fotografie von Goodyn Green

    Eine Frau liegt im Bett.

    Ein Beitrag von: Brooke Nolan

    Die Fotografin und Regisseurin Goodyn Green kommt zu unserem Treffen mit einem alten blauen Fahrrad, alten Jeans, Lederjacke und kurzen scharlachroten Haaren. Zwei Tattoos auf ihren Armen zeigen die Sprüche „How feminine is this?“ und „pretty damn fucking feminine“. Ich berichte über die Arbeit von Goodyn Green, die Rollenklischees hinterfragt.
    kwerfeldein – Fotografie Magazin | Fotocommunity