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  • Canon G7 X Mark II added to studio scene

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    JPEG Performance

    One of the obvious changes to the G7 X Mark II’s image processing is with sharpening$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2662”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2662); }); }). For the G7 X Mark II, the large radius sharpening has been increased, which does enhance certain types of detail$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2664”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2664); }); }), but ultimately emphasizes lower frequency detail$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2676”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2676); }); }) over high frequency detail. A significant downside of large radius sharpening is more pronounced sharpening halos$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2663”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2663); }); }) compared to the G7 X, which can look particularly egregious$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2675”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2675); }); }) next to the more refined sharpening the RX100 IV demonstrates (pay attention to the edges of the color patches).

    Noise reduction has also changed. When we took the G7 X Mark II to Sasquatch! music festival, we noticed noise reduction at base ISO was fairly strong. Compared to the G7 X$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2672”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2672); }); }), we can see the stronger algorithm in action, especially when compared to the amount of detail visible in Raw$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2671”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2671); }); }) mode. The excessive noise reduction combined with the large radius sharpening we mentioned earlier mean that fine detail isn’t as well preserved in the JPEG as it could be.

    The benefit of both the sharpening and NR parts of the new engine is better detail retention at higher ISOs$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2670”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2670); }); }), with an ISO 1600 shot from the G7 X Mark II shot showing as much detail as an ISO 800 shot from the G7 X. At the highest ISOs, 6400$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2668”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2668); }); }) and 12800$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2674”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2674); }); }), the image engine oddly remains unchanged.

    Raw Performance

    Raw high ISO performance in low light remains largely the same as the G7 X$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2677”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2677); }); }), which is right where we expect image quality to be from the Sony sensor used across many 1-inch type cameras$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#imageComparisonLink2678”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(2678); }); }). 

    These improvements come with many other changes for the G7 X Mark II, which will be covered in our full review. Stay tuned!

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Equipment Tips for Quick and Efficient Studio Product Photography

    In this article I’m going to discuss the equipment you will need to create great product photography. I built my setup to provide great versatile lighting, speed, and the ability to cut out the product in post production very quickly and accurately. This setup can be used for still life, food, fine art and even some macro work.

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    When I first started doing product photography I was hired by a company to reshoot their entire 3200 piece inventory. Needless to say that was a HUGE job, and speed and efficiency was paramount. I had previously not done more than a few dozen parts at one time for a client, so I really was not set up to undertake a job of this scale. I was going to have to rethink a lot of things, and I knew I was going to need additional studio equipment. The words, “Not going to happen” were not going to come out of my mouth, as I wanted the challenge and the learning experience. Many of the things I implemented for that specific job are still in use for my product photography today. This tips in this article are a good base to start if you are an aspiring product photographer.

    Requirements of a product setup

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    Here is what I felt were the most important things to plan for to make this job happen.

    1. Speed – to be able to quickly move through multiple angles of a single product, and to adapt quickly to the next product.
    2. Versatile light – lighting that can stay constant for similar groups of products, but remain flexible enough to quickly shift to get proper exposure.
    3. Cut-out ease – the ability to knock out a product from the background quickly in post-production, and place a product on pure white without having to open the image in Photoshop.

    With this list in mind you find yourself smack dab in the crosshairs of a shooting table. There really is no other way around it. This is why a shooting table works so well for this type of setup.

    1. Speed

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    A platform is needed when you want to quickly move products in front of your camera and then off the set. Why not make it a platform that is specifically made for photography? The seamless background of a shooting table means less fussing around with intersecting lines that is typical with most background setups, and you won’t have to spend much time with product placement within the scene. That alone will speed up your shoots.

    2. Versatile light

    You can bounce light off the white shooting table, or better yet light the table from below, causing it to glow. Another great thing about a shooting table is that it’s white. White is a great way to control the shadows of a product. If I had it my way I would have the product completely enshrouded in white light or reflectors, then introduce shadows that add shape and dimension via black cards for the ultimate control. That unfortunately isn’t going to happen, but a white table is a great start.

    ShootList4

    Table with light coming from below.

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    Table with light from above.

    3. Remove background quickly in post-production

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    Nice clean light, easy to cut-out product shot.

    No one wants to sit around using the Quick Selection tool in Photoshop, refining the edge, seeing the horrible job that tool does, and then finally having to use the much more labor intensive Pen tool to mask out the background. It’s far easier to get this done in camera, or at least give yourself a huge head start. The time you will save with this method will add up very quickly, and will give you a more natural look.

    A shooting table

    A shooting table is the first place to spend your money. There are many different tables out there but after all my research I found the Foba DIMIU shooting table to be the perfect solution for me.

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    It is a large shooting area, a long sweeping seamless Plexiglas surface that allows you to light from above or below it, the table frame features 4 – æ inch studs at each corner that can be used for various attachments such as arms and brackets to hold cards, product or lights.

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    The table is lightweight, can be moved around the studio with ease, and is easy to assemble. I raised the height of my table by using 6×4 lumber cut into blocks, and some bed risers.

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    At $ 1,544 I realize that the price might keep it out of a lot of hands. But, don’t fret, a more affordable option can be found, like the Manfrotto large still life table for $ 811. If you’re planning on shooting only small products, the Manfrotto mini table at $ 480 is an option as well. Keep in mind, if you think you might have large products in the future, spend the money now and get the largest table you can afford.

    Lighting

    Lighting is the next thing to consider. The type of system you choose is going to make a pretty big difference when it comes to shooting your actual products. You will ultimately be choosing between two main types of light; a constant (continuous) light system or a studio strobe (flash) system.

    A constant light setup is going to be much easier if you’re just starting out with product photography. With a constant light system the learning curve is exponentially smaller. The benefits of What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) light cannot be overstated. I am going to go out on a limb to make a broad statement and say that if you are reading this article for help with your product photography, then you likely do not have the experience needed to employ studio strobes as your light source.

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    Even if you have some experience with strobes, unless you have two to three years or more of shooting strobes in a product environment, do yourself a huge favor and get continuous lights. You will be amazed at how much, and how quickly you will learn when you use constant light. Plus there are some added benefits of using a constant light:

    • No tether equipment. You do not have to control the lights with a radio transmitter, by placing the light in optical slave mode, or by a cable like you do with studio strobes. They will always be on, ready to make pictures.
    • You can use them as video lights if you want to get into motion for product shots.
    • They are a far superior light learning tool, even for more advanced photographers. In my opinion this reason alone is why you want go with constant light.

    ShootList9

    Okay great, you are going to take my advice and get some constant light. My recommendation would be the Westcott Spiderlite TD6 system for the following reasons:

    • They are bright.
    • The fluorescent bulbs stay cool. A huge deal when you are stuffed in a studio with no windows.
    • The included bulbs are daylight balanced and can be mixed with light from a window.
    • Option to use tungsten halogens (not sure why you would because those bulbs run so hot).
    • Westcott has plenty of light modifiers for shaping your light.
    • Light output is controllable in 33% increments with three switches.
    • Solid build, with all metal heads and quality light modifiers.

    When I bought the kit from Westcott it came with the Spiderlite TD6 head, six 50w fluorescent bulbs, a tilter bracket, and the 36×48 softbox. I paid $ 700 per light, and bought two of those kits for a grand total of $ 1400.

    ShootList10

    There is some good news though. At the time of writing this article, there is a Westcott promo kit that comes with two of everything, two heads, two brackets, two sets of bulbs, and two softboxes, one is the 36×48 the other is a strip 12×36. The kit is going for $ 799. A fantastic buy for this lighting system.

    If that is still a little more than you want to spend, then there are some other options for lighting. Impact has a kit that has light heads, stands, bulbs, and modifiers for about $ 265. But as my grandfather always said, you can’t afford to buy something twice. If product photography is something you are going to do, pay for the quality of Westcott. It will last, day in and day out.

    My TD6 lights are used primarily as my key (main) and fill lights. I still need to be able to light my shooting table. For that I turned to some reflectors.

    ShootList6

    I went with two 16″ reflectors from Flashpoint, for $ 70 a piece. These sit under my raised shooting table and shine straight up through the bottom to blow out my table top.

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    Light stands

    Now is a good time to talk about support. Supporting your lights should be carefully considered, and you need to ensure you don’t skimp here. I have a story to help illustrate this point. While doing a product shot for a client I was moving about the studio, and I brushed past my lights on my way back to my camera. Before I could turn around and look at the scene I heard a crash. My light had toppled over, hit the table, knocked the product off balance, and it hit the floor and broke. It was a bottle of wine. I was left with a huge mess to clean up, a broken bottle that needed to be replaced, and a bill from the client for the unreturned product. It could have been worse, but not by much. Invest in your light stands. Get good ones and weigh them down properly with sandbags.

    You are going to want to use some sort of a C-Stand. Whether it be a turtle base (removable legs from the center column) a rocky mountain C-stand (a stand with one leg that can go up and down the center column) or a super C-stand (extra heavy duty) invest in a C stand for your large lights. Also, always have sandbags handy to weigh the C-stands down once you bring them onto your set.

    ShootList8

    For the price of $ 129 per stand from Adorama, for their Flashpoint C-stand with turtle base is pretty great, I couldn’t be more pleased. It has been a fantastic solid stand for my large TD6 lights.

    The other stand that I bought was a lot less mission critical, it was for my reflectors. I bought a few Manfrotto Nanopole stands which bottom out at 20″, and can go as high as six feet. They are not meant for anything too heavy, but they do the small stand job perfectly.

    So, we touched on all the main equipment needed to make a successful product photography set. Do you have any other tips to add? What do you use for product photography? If you have any questions please ask in the comments below.

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    The post Equipment Tips for Quick and Efficient Studio Product Photography by Jacob Macias appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Paradise Found: Spend a Night Floating Above the Great Barrier Reef

    [ By SA Rogers in Destinations & Sights & Travel. ]

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    Better hope your kids remain firmly tucked into their Finding Dory-themed beds all night long lest they get a little too enthusiastic about leaning over the edge of this wall-free AirBNB floating over Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. The vacation rental company is offering one lucky family of four two free nights aboard their 2-bedroom, 1-bath open platform, with a beautiful white-curtained master suite on one end and the kids’ room tucked behind it.

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    The platform itself is pretty cool, taking advantage of the beautiful weather and pleasant temperatures of the area, not to mention the world-class snorkeling and scuba diving. If you want to win, you’ll have to submit an essay on why your family deserves to stay at the temporary rental, and your answer better “surprise and delight” the folks at AirBNB. The winner will be selected on July 4th.

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    “Imagine living atop a coral garden beside a sand cay in a billowing reef home on the Great Barrier Reef,” says AirBNB on the promo page for the contest. “You feel the pull of the unknown when you peek over the edge of the coral shelf and take in your neighborhood – home to 600 types of soft and hard corals, 100 species of jellyfish, 3,000 varieties of molluscs, 500 species of worms, 1,625 types of fish, 133 varieties of sharks and rays, and more than 30 species of whales and dolphins. And somewhere, beneath you, is the most famous Blue Tang in the world.” [The latter refers to the type of fish featured in ‘Finding Dory.]

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    Unsurprisingly, the contest is a collaboration between AirBNB and Disney Pixar’s Finding Dory, the animated film that’s likely set to wipe out the species of fish it highlights just as it did with clownfish back in 2003. In the years since ‘Finding Nemo’ came out, more than 10 million clownfish were removed from reefs for home aquariums, causing them to go locally extinct in places like Thailand. At least viewing tropical fish in their natural habitat at the Great Barrier Reef leaves them where they belong. Just don’t go throwing any trash overboard, please, kids.

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    [ By SA Rogers in Destinations & Sights & Travel. ]

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  • Disappearing Architecture: 15 Mirrored Buildings Distort Perception

    [ By SA Rogers in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

    mirror zaha hadid 2

    Dazzling in the most literal sense, architecture clad in mirrored glass or stainless steel almost seem to become part of the sky and landscapes that surround it so you can’t quite tell where the man-made objects end and nature begins. That’s often the point, with architects creating structures that virtually disappear into their surroundings (to the chagrin of more than a few birds.)

    Reflection Field by Phillip K Smith III, Indio, California

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    Reflecting the vast open sky and signature palm trees of Indio, California, where Coachella is held each year, the installation ‘Reflection Field’ by Phillip K. Smith III consists of five monolithic volumes that transform all day along with the environment. At night, colored light is projected from within.

    Refinished French Country House

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    It’s safe to say there’s no French country estate quite as dazzling as this one, now that its facade has been entirely replaced with mirrors. Architecture studio Bona-Lemercier worked with artist Xavier Veilhan and set designer Alexis Bertrand to transform a 1960s home into ‘Le Château de Rentilly,’ a contemporary art gallery.

    Guest Houses by Peter Pichler, South Tyrol, Austria

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    A pair of vacation homes in the South Tyrolean Dolomites by Peter Pichler offer up space for guests without interrupting the property owners’ view of the stunning mountains. Reflective, but coated in a glare-reducing film to prevent bird collisions, the two ‘Mirror Houses’ blend into the property so they don’t compete with the client’s garden and existing 1960s farmhouse.

    Mirrored Ziggurat by Shirin Abedinirad

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    “In this installation I have been inspired by the pyramidal structure of ziggurat, a common form of temple in ancient Mesopotamia, attempting to connect earth and sky, so humans could be nearer to God,” says artist Shirin Abedinirad. “The Mirrored Ziggurat acts as a staircase, which seeks to connect nature with human beings and to create union of ancient history and today’s world. The installation offers a transformative view of the self. The Mirrored Ziggurat has seven levels that represent seven heavens. For me, mirrors amplify this paradise, giving light; an important mystical concept in Persian culture, and a medium creating an optical illusion.”

    Mirrored Auditorium by MVRDV, Tianjin, China

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    It’s hard to tell what’s real and what’s reflection when gazing inside the transparent facade of MVRDV’s beautiful new library at the Binhai Cultural Centre in the Chinese city of Tianjin. A mirrored spherical auditorium inside the main atrium reflects both the interior space around it (including all those books!) and the park outside.

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    Disappearing Architecture 15 Mirrored Buildings Distort Perception

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    [ By SA Rogers in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

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  • 4 Key Lightroom Sliders That Will Supercharge Your Photos

    Lightroom is kind of like a Swiss Army Knife or, better yet, a Leatherman Wave, in that it does so many things and is an invaluable program for many photographers–amateur, professional, or anywhere in between. Regardless of whether you’re the kind of person who prefers presets, or someone who likes scooting sliders, there are four options hidden in plain sight, right on the Basic panel of the Develop module, that can dramatically enhance almost any picture.

    It took me a few years to learn to use these sliders properly, and even now I am still figuring out new ways to work with them, in combination with other options in the Develop module to get my pictures looking just the way I want. But, now I am at a point where adjusting these four options is the very first thing I do on almost every single photo. They’re that useful for me, and could be for you too.

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    The four key Lightroom sliders are:

    1. Highlights
    2. Shadows
    3. Whites
    4. Blacks

    Learning how to work with these four key sliders can have an amazing impact on your photography.

    Exposure-sliderTo demonstrate the effect of each slider I’m going to show you a picture in various states of editing, as I adjust values for each option one by one. If you are used to using the Exposure (note in the screenshot on the right what areas of your image are affected by moving the Exposure slider) and Contrast sliders to adjust your images, you may want to put those aside for now and focus on these other four instead, as they can give you significantly better results.

    I should also note that, as with virtually all Lightroom tips and tricks, your results will be best if you shoot in RAW instead of JPG. The picture I’m going to start with is a shot of some colorful leaves on a rainy day, that seems fairly decent to begin with, but is made much more vibrant and richer just by adjusting these four key Lightroom sliders: Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks.

    The original photo straight out of my camera with no adjustments applied whatsoever.

    The original photo straight out of the camera with no adjustments applied whatsoever.

    Histogram of original unedited image.

    Histogram of original unedited image.

    #1 – Highlights slider

    Highlights-sliderI mentioned the Exposure slider in the previous paragraph, which is a tool that adjusts the overall brightness or darkness of an entire image (based on the midtones). The Highlights slider allows you to perform a similar type of adjustment, but only with the brightest parts of an image (tones not quite pure white). Moving it to the left will make the brightest parts darker, and moving it to the right will make the same parts brighter. Hover over the Highlights slider with your mouse to see on the histogram which parts of the image will be affected (see screenshot at the right).

    I use this as a starting point when making adjustments to a picture, because it can help recover some of the details in the lighter parts of an image that might seem a bit too bright or washed out, and can give the picture a more evenly-lit appearance overall.

    Highlights adjusted to a value of -80. Notice how the yellow leaves, particularly the large one on the right-hand side, now display a much richer shade of yellow and are not as washed-out as in the initial photo.

    Highlights adjusted to a value of -80. Notice how the yellow leaves, particularly the large one on the right-hand side, now display a much richer shade of yellow and are not as washed-out as in the initial photo.

    Histogram with highlights adjusted.

    Histogram with highlights adjusted.

    As you adjust the Highlights, or any of the other three sliders mentioned in this article, you can use the built-in clipping guide to help get the right amount of adjustments to your image. Hold down the alt key (option on Mac) as you move the slider from left to right and you will see your image go all dark except for a few spots. These spots indicate areas of your image that are clipped, which means image data is being lost in those parts. You generally want to avoid clipping, so it’s a good idea to not adjust the Highlights or any other slider so much that you start seeing lots of clipped areas.

    A peek at the histogram on top of the Basic module will show you similar information, as the more you adjust the Highlights slider to the right the more you will see the colors move to the right-hand side as well. If they move so far that they are off that side of the grid, areas of your image are being clipped, and there are going to be spots of pure white that you may not want.

    #2 – Shadows slider

    Shadows-sliderIn a similar vein as the Highlights slider, the Shadows option makes the dark parts of your image a little brighter (see image right for which areas are affected). It’s kind of like using the Exposure slider to make your image brighter, but restricting it only to the sections of an image that are very dark, while ignoring the rest. This works wonders on pictures that are underexposed, as modern cameras have image sensors that capture an amazing amount of detail in the shadows, particularly at lower ISO values. It’s rare that you will need to (or even want to) boost the shadow level clear up to 100, but it’s nice knowing Lightroom at least gives you the option of doing so.

    I should also note that you could use the same slider to make the shadow areas of an image even darker, and depending on the type of photography you do, that may very well be a useful option but most photographers will want to just lighten the shadows instead.

    Adjusting the shadows by +50 helped to bring back some of the detail that was lost in the darker areas, as you can see in the area of green leaves inside the circle.

    Adjusting the shadows by +50 helped to bring back some of the detail that was lost in the darker areas, as you can see in the area of green leaves inside the circle.

    Highlights and shadows adjusted.

    Highlights and shadows adjusted.

    #3 – Whites slider

    Whites-sliderThis is related to the highlights, but has a slightly different impact on your image, that is subtle but quite impactful. Adjusting this to the right essentially makes the white tones in your image, more pure white. It affects all the white tones in the photo (see image on the right) as opposed to the highlights slider which only deals with a narrow range of very bright colors.

    What you’re doing here is setting the white point, or telling Lightroom what you want the brightest point of your photo to actually be. This can give a flat image much more depth and tonality, and take an otherwise boring picture and really start to make it shine. I almost always drag this slider a little bit to the right, though you must be careful not to let anything get clipped, which you can do by holding down the alt or option key while you drag it.

    Bringing the white slider to a value of +45 now makes all the white areas more pure white. The effect is most noticeable on the various water drops which now appear much more vibrant and well defined.

    Bringing the white slider to a value of +45 now makes all the white areas more pure white. The effect is most noticeable on the various water drops which now appear much more vibrant and well defined.

    Highlights, shadows and whites adjusted.

    Highlights, shadows and whites adjusted.

    #4 – Blacks slider

    Blacks-sliderSimilar to the Whites slider, this one adjusts the black point of your image, or how dark the darkest portions really render. I almost always slide this to the left to give my photos a little more punch. It helps pictures have a little more contrast, while bringing out a lot more color in any image as a whole.

    One difference to note when adjusting this slider, as opposed to some of the others, is that you actually do want the black level to be clipped slightly. So, when you hold the alt or option key down as you adjust this one, you want to see a few highlighted areas show up. The reason for this is to make the very darkest parts of your images truly black, which adds depth and a nice pleasing look to your pictures, that is far more effective than simply moving the contrast slider.

    Note: the contrast slider pushes out from the middle of the histogram, whereas pulling the Whites and Blacks sliders pulls out from the edge – thus giving you more control over how contrast is applied to your image.

    Bringing the shadows down to -70 makes the black areas pure black, and gives a much richer sense of contrast to the image overall than simply adjusting the contrast slider.

    Bringing the Blacks down to -70 makes the black areas pure black, and gives a much richer sense of contrast to the image overall than simply adjusting the contrast slider.

    All four adjustments made.

    All four adjustments made.

    Before and after

    To give you a clear sense of just how much these four sliders can affect an image, here’s a before and after comparison of the same photo. The original seems so dull and lifeless, compared to the vibrant dynamic edited version. Remember, the only things that were adjusted were the Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks sliders.

    four-lightroom-sliders-leaves-comparison

    There are dozens of other edits that can be done in Lightroom to improve photos. Simple things like increasing the clarity, adjusting the tone curve, fine-tuning the sharpening, or selectively editing each color, can improve your original images (especially if you shoot in RAW) leaps and bounds beyond what you might have thought. But if all that seems like a bit too much to take in all at once, just know that you can get a huge amount of improvements just by using these four simple sliders in the Basic panel.

    When I said that these four key Lightroom sliders can supercharge your editing, I really meant it. Learning to use them only takes a few minutes, and can make a huge difference in your images.

    To recap, here’s what each slider does in a nutshell:

    • Highlights: Adjusts the brighter portions of an image to bring back some color that might be too washed out.
    • Shadows: Adjusts the darker portions of an image to bring out some color and detail where it may appear to be too dark.
    • Whites: Makes the whitest portions of an image more pure white.
    • Blacks: Makes the blackest portions of an image more pure black.
    Original image, straight out of camera, with no edits applied.

    Original image, straight out of camera, with no edits applied.

    Original image histogram.

    Original image histogram.

    Highlights -47, Shadows +83, Whites +79, Blacks -56, and no other edits at all.

    Highlights -47, Shadows +83, Whites +79, Blacks -56, and no other edits at all.

    Adjusted histogram.

    Adjusted histogram.

    I have found myself using these four sliders so much that I actually created a custom preset in Lightroom that sets them all to specific values. I often apply this preset to every picture upon import, as it gives me a good starting point to work from, when doing my other edits. The values I use are:four-lightroom-sliders

    • Highlights -25
    • Shadows +20
    • Whites +25
    • Blacks -30

    Your mileage will vary, and again this is just a starting point, but hopefully all of this illustrates just how useful these four sliders are. When I first started working with Lightroom I was so overwhelmed with all the options at my disposal, that not only did I think I would never be able to learn it, but I didn’t even know where to start. If that sounds like you, I would recommend giving these four sliders a try and use this as the springboard for the rest of your edits.

    What about you? What are some of your favorite editing tips and tricks in Lightroom? Do you have a particular key to an effective workflow that you’d like to share? Leave your thoughts in the comments below.

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    The post 4 Key Lightroom Sliders That Will Supercharge Your Photos by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • You’ve got mail: Five photo postcard apps tested

    In this age of sharing images via email, social media and text messages, one form of photo communication has sadly been left behind. It is something we all used to look forward to getting from anyone who was traveling. I’m speaking of the humble postcard.

    Be it a trip as mundane as a work conference in Kansas City or as exotic as a trek through the Amazon rainforest, getting a postcard in the mail was something that we all looked forward to from friends and family. Even today, if I want to make my grandmother happy, sending even the cheesiest of postcards will bring a smile and a thank you. Perhaps more surprisingly, my kids go completely nuts when someone sends them a postcard. At 6 and 8, they both already have email addresses, but the postcards all go right up on the wall above their beds.

    But what if we could merge the old-school and the new-school? What if, instead of relying on the spinning metal rack of cards at a roadside diner or airport giftshop, you could easily send a postcard of an image you took yourself? Through the magic of smartphone apps, doing so is far easier than you might expect.

    Putting them to the test

    I tried out five different postcard apps on an iPhone 5s: Touchnote, Postcard, Ink, Postagram and Snapshot Postcard. All of the apps are free and charge only for sending cards. I sent myself three postcards from each app using the same three images. One of the images was taken with a DSLR and another with a Micro Four Thirds camera, then transferred to my iPhone. The third image was a photo taken with the iPhone’s rear-facing camera. The data regarding pricing was reported by the app companies themselves. I did my best to make it clear what the costs would be for both US and International users. If the company reported specific non-US pricing, it is listed. But if they did not, pricing will be in whatever your local exchange rate is from USD.

    Touchnote
    www.touchnote.com

    Cost: $ 2.99/£2.99/€2.99
    Usable worldwide: Yes
    Cardstock: 110 lb glossy
    Android/iOS: Both
    Additional products: Greeting cards

    As with all of these apps, Touchnote has iOS and Android versions. What is unique is that it also has a web interface so you can order while at your desk. This is actually surprisingly handy if you intend to send non-phone images regularly. Full-bleed, white border, square or 1-6 multi image layouts are available. Images can be cropped, zoomed and rotated within the app. In addition to traditional messages on the back of the postcard, Touchnote allows you to add up to a 33 character caption on the front side as well. There is a confirmation email after you send a card and you can see (as well as copy for future use) all of your past sent cards in a nice timeline view.

    Postcard by PrintMe
    www.printmeapp.com/card

    Cost: $ 2.99/£1.79/€2.49
    Usable worldwide: Yes
    Cardstock: 300 gr/qm (aprox 110 lb) luster
    Android/iOS: Both
    Additional products: Greeting cards, photo books, calendars

    Postcard by PrintMe aims to be more of a ‘photo products’ app than the others in this article. That said, its postcard options are plenty strong on their own. Full-bleed, white border, and multi-image layouts are available, as well as many ‘occasion/holiday’ designs. The image can be zoomed and cropped, but not rotated.

    Rare in these apps is Postcard’s ability to change the font for your message on the back. Sadly, there is no drop-down list, you just have to keep pressing the ‘font’ button over and over. Still, it is one of the only apps that give you any font option at all. Much cooler is the ‘signature’ box option which allows you to sign your name on-screen and have it print on the card. Finally, though I did not test it, Postcard offers the option to pick up folded greeting cards, but not postcards, next-day at Walgreens locations.

    Postagram
    www.sincerely.com/postagram

    Cost: $ 0.99 domestic $ 1.99 international
    Usable worldwide: Yes
    Cardstock: 12 pt (approx 92 lb) with thick glossy laminate
    Android/iOS: Both
    Additional products: None

    Looking to differentiate itself from the other apps out there, Postagram is unique both because it is designed around a, presumably, Instagram-inspired square image layout, and also because that square image comes pre-perforated and ready to pop out in a sort of trading-card style. Your message is printed on both the back of the image ‘card’ and on the front side as well. In a nice touch, you can choose a secondary 0.75 inch x 0.75 inch ‘avatar’ style secondary image to appear in the corner. Which is neat for including an image of yourself along with your landscape image from a trip somewhere, for example. Currently the non-image area of the Postagram cards are black. However, an upcoming app update will offer more colorful options.

    Both Ink (described below) and Postagram are from the same company, so if you have set up an account on one, it will work on the other. They apps are also virtually identical in design and features, with the few small differences owing mostly to the differing focus of each product. There are some basic Instagram-style image filters available as well as the ability to zoom and crop. Rotating your image does not seem to be an option. To make sending multiple cards faster, you can copy a past card and update the address/message. There is a clever payment option that allows you to take a photo of your credit card instead of entering in the numbers manually. Both apps are very good with order-received/card-sent confirmations. I will say that unless you turn them off, they are both a little heavy on the marketing notifications (‘It’s a week until Mother’s Day!’ etc).

    Ink
    www.sincerely.com/ink

    Cost: $ 1.99 within the USA, $ 2.99 International, $ 2.99 extra for “Premium” option
    Usable worldwide: Yes
    Cardstock: 12 pt (approx 92 lb) with thick glossy laminate, Premium cards are 120lb with eggshell finish
    Android/iOS: Both
    Additional products: None

    Ink is designed as more of a greeting-card style postcard app, with many pre-formatted designs for various holidays and occasions that you can add your image to. But they also offer standard postcard options as well as full-bleed, white border or multi-image layouts. Ink postcards are the largest of any tested here, at 5×7 (vs roughly 4×6 for the others). They also offer an upgraded “Premium” card that is printed on heavier matte cardstock and comes in an embossed envelope with a real stamp.

    SnapShot Postcard
    www.snapshotpostcard.com

    Cost: $ 1.99 domestic $ 2.99 international (first card is free from anywhere)
    Usable worldwide:  Yes
    Cardstock: 110 lb glossy
    Android/iOS: Both
    Additional products: None (though they do have a greeting card app, SnapShot Greeting Card, as well)

    SnapShot Postcard is the only one of the apps that offers a quick ‘getting started’ video as part of its signup flow. While none of these apps are what I would call confusing for anyone who is used to mobile apps, a quick video walkthrough is pretty handy for those who aren’t as tech savvy. Another area where SnapShot Postcard is ahead of the others is that you can send your first card free. Trying a product before you buy is always a nice thing. While user interface is not particularly fancy, all the basics are there in the app. You can set a return address, place a caption on the front, and crop/zoom/rotate (with a handy ‘shake to reset’ function). You can choose borders or full bleed for your images. The borders are fairly cheesy and there isn’t any ‘white’ border option, so full-bleed is going to be your best bet. You are asked if you would like to send the same card again to a different address, handy for vacation or family photos where you might send the same card to many people. There is a nice order history, but you cannot copy old cards. 

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Nordic by Nature: Fanciful Models of Scandinavian Summer Homes

    [ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

    nordic retreat treehouse

    A series of sleek but whimsical models blend photorealism with fantastic concepts for treehouses, hilltop homes and even dwellings mounted on the sides of cliffs.

    nordic cliff side dwelling

    Santi Zoraidez is an art director and designer from Buenos Aires who does visual, graphic and architectural work, sometimes real and sometimes conceptual.

    nordic modernism hillside home

    In this set of summer homes, he bends, twists, warps and cantilevers wood in amazing (if sometimes implausible) ways, putting houses on spindly stilts or hanging them from steep rocky surfaces.

    nordic modernist

    The results are at once daring and provocative while retaining a sense of minimalism, that core feature common to Modernist Scandinavian designs.

    nordic angled house modle

    By maintaining a simple palette of colors and textures, the artist manages to accomplish a natural aesthetic that makes sense for countryside dwellings while letting the details of designs – long horizontals and asymmetrical shapes – define each work.

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  • Photographing fireworks: The basics and then some

    Photographing fireworks

    Here in the U.S. there’s a major summer holiday coming up – one that is celebrated with colorful explosions in the sky. The Fourth of July is traditionally celebrated with grilled meats, red-white-and-blue popsicles and of course, fireworks. If you’ve ever taken a terrible photo of a fireworks display and wondered what went wrong, we’ve got some ideas for you – from the very basics to some simple tips that will help you capture all the majesty of those ‘bombs bursting in air’.

    Photographing fireworks

    First things first: get your hands on a tripod. You’ll need to steady your camera by any means necessary otherwise the long exposures – anywhere from 2s to 10s or more – needed to capture the fireworks trails will just results in a blurry mess. Something else that can blur your photos is pressing the shutter release button, so a remote release of some sort, whether a cable, remote or smartphone will do the trick.

    Next, you’ll want a lens or two that give you a variety of framing options. Depending on where you set up and what obstructions are in your path, a zoom lens will allow you to get your composition just right. It’ll also afford you variety with respect to story-telling: a telephoto focal length allows you to compress city elements with the fireworks as we’ve done here, while a wide-angle field of view will allow you to include different context in your framing, such as the viewers in this shot at the end of our slideshow.

    Photographing fireworks

    Shooting fireworks can be challenging from the perspective of camera settings. First, we recommend you place your camera on a tripod, so you can use the lowest ISO possible. This helps your camera capture as much light as possible, minimizing noise and maximizing dynamic range. Raising the ISO simply brightens tones so much as to often blow the fireworks to white. If you wish to raise dark tones, like the skies and cityscape, it’s better to selectively brighten them in post-processing, rather than increase the ISO which raises the exposure of all tones in your image.

    Which gets us to our next point: shoot Raw. This affords you the most post-processing flexibility with respect to exposure of tones, and colors of various tones, including white balance adjustment.

    Exposure latitude, and therefore dynamic range, is important when it comes to photographing fireworks. The fireworks are bright, so you don’t want to overexpose and blow them out, while the rest of the city and sky are dark, which you don’t want to clip to black. In fact, some lingering blue color in the sky adds a nice touch to the imagery. Larger sensor cameras, with higher dynamic range, allow you maximum flexibility in post, if you shoot Raw of course. This allows you to recover colors in the bright fireworks, brighten dark blue tones in the sky, and to set White Balance perfectly to balance the warm colors of the fireworks and the blue colors of the sky.

    Photographing fireworks

    But what settings should you shoot with? After setting your camera to the lowest ISO (usually ISO 100), set your Drive mode to Manual Bulb, then F8 (equivalent) for enough depth-of-field, and to ensure that the initial launch of the fireworks itself doesn’t register too brightly in your final photograph. Trigger the shutter with your remote when no action is occurring, to allow the camera to start accumulate background exposure to capture some of the sky blue and city lights. Once the fireworks explode, continue to capture some of the trails, then end the exposure with your remote. That’ll allow you to capture enough of the fireworks to get a pattern against a well exposed deep blue sky. Any other exposure adjustments to balance the sky, foreground, and fireworks can be saved for post-processing of the Raw.

    This method will allow you to to capture just the right amount of fireworks for the effect you desire. Here, for example, we stopped the exposure rather early, to capture some of the interesting paths the fireworks initially took. When the finale rolls around and fireworks are going off all over the place, you’ll want to end the exposures earlier on (shorter shutter speeds), otherwise you’ll get a blown-out mess.

    And by the way, the earlier you start shooting, the less mess of clouds and gas from previous explosions you’ll have in your final photograph – there’s already quite a bit of smoke in this photograph!

    Photographing fireworks

    Photo: Dale Baskin Photography

    Move away from the show

    Now that you’ve got a handle on the basic principles, here are a few easy tricks you can try out to bring your fireworks photo game up a level.

    There’s a natural tendency to want to get close to, or directly underneath, a fireworks show. This works well if your goal is to capture closeups of the fireworks, but without other visual cues a firework over Seattle looks the same as a firework over London. Try moving away from the show and using a telephoto lens to frame fireworks against a city skyline or landscape to provide some context to your photos and to provide a sense of place.

    Photographing fireworks

    Photo by John Cornicello

    Try something tricky

    Racking the zoom or adjusting focus while shooting a longer exposure can offer up a creative and new way to photograph fireworks. One way to go about doing this is to throw the focus at the beginning of a 1 or 2 second exposure and quickly refocus after the initial explosion. This will give your images a flower or even sea creature-like look.

    Photographing fireworks

    Don’t forget video

    You can also opt to forget stills for the night. Try shooting high frame rate video if your camera offers it and slowing it down later. Whether you’re watching professional fireworks or simply lighting off roman candles in your backyard, slow-motion video is a simple way to get some very cool shots. Many modern cameras can shoot video at 60 or even 120 fps. And still some cameras, like to Sony RX100 IV used to capture the video below, can shoot as fast as 960 fps.

    Photographing fireworks

    Capture the human element

    For another view, think of capturing the human element instead of the action: Firework photos can frankly be a tad cliche. Don’t shoot the same boring shot as everyone else, instead turn your camera to 180 degrees and capture those watching. Try looking for people displaying an emotional response to the show. And because most folks will be mesmerized by what they’re watching, it should be pretty easy to go unnoticed while you shoot.

    Photographing fireworks

    Photo by Jonah Cohen

    Move away from the show and capture the human element

    Alternatively, take a step back and frame the human element, with the fireworks in the background. Here the people are an integral part of the framing, so a small aperture was used for loads of depth-of-field to get both the viewers and the fireworks in focus. You can also get closer to the viewers to create more separation between them and the fireworks, and use a fast aperture to throw either them or the fireworks out-of-focus for creative effect.

    Either way, if you’re putting people into the frame, a wide-angle lens will allow you to include a large group of people, as well as create separation, or depth, between the people in the foreground and fireworks in the background. The shot above was taken at 26mm equivalent, for example.

    Have any favorite tips or tricks for photographing fireworks? Share them in the comments!

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Use Light to Create Moody Images

    It isn’t difficult to take sharp, well-exposed photos with modern cameras. But how do you take it a step further and create moody images that capture the spirit of a place?

    What is mood?

    I define mood as a feeling or emotion you get while experiencing something. For example, while travelling through Xi’an, a city in China, last year I spent some time in the city’s Muslim Quarter. I felt a mixture of things – overwhelmed by the crowds and the sticky heat, fascinated by the sights and smells coming from stalls selling home-made street food, and claustrophobic while wandering down hutongs (alleyways) connecting the main streets. Then there was the paradox of the city’s ancient open air mosque – a peaceful paradise amongst the noise and dirt of the old city.

    Mood and light

    The mood in this photo was created by the mix of artificial and natural light. The lights in the market stall bathe the scene in an orange glow, while the blue light of early evening creeps in at the edges.

    Once you have the sense of the mood of a place, you can start thinking about how to capture that in a still frame. Part of the answer lies in composition and the subject. In this example it is obvious that well composed images taken amongst the hubbub of the Muslim Quarter in Xi’an will help capture the atmosphere. But the one thing you really have to pay attention to, the thing that will elevate your photos above the ordinary, is light.

    How light and time of day affect your images

    Most photographers are familiar with the idea that the moodiest, most evocative lighting comes at either end of the day, close to sunrise and sunset. Golden hour is the name for the time when the sun is close to the horizon, casting golden light that creates long, raking shadows. The blue hour is the time at dusk, or just before sunrise, when there is light in the sky and the natural color of the ambient light is deep blue.

    The light at both these times is incredibly moody. Once you have found an interesting place to photograph, and identified with the spirit of the place, then you really can’t go wrong by venturing out at these times to take photos. Yes, you can take interesting photos at other times of the day, but the light won’t be as evocative.

    One of the challenges of working in moody light, especially during dusk, is that light levels are low. This is less of a problem than it used to be because high ISO performance on modern cameras is so good you can easily raise the ISO to work with a hand-held camera in low light. It also helps if you have a prime lens, as this lets you use wider apertures which let more light in, enabling you to use lower ISOs or faster shutter speeds (or both). Image Stabilization in its various forms may also be useful.

    Mood and light

    This photo balances the orange glow from the lanterns against the fading blue light of the evening sky. I used an ISO of 6400 to work in low light shooting without a tripod.

    If you are a landscape photographer, these points aren’t so important, as you would simply use a tripod to support the camera, allowing you to use small apertures, low ISO settings, and long shutter speeds (another tool for creating mood in the landscape) without camera shake.

    Returning to my example of taking photos in Xi’an, I didn’t bother going out with my camera in the middle of the day (when the light was too harsh). Instead, I visited it in the late afternoon, when the fading light and encroaching artificial lights added to the mood, and helped me create a sense of place. This was as interesting time to work, as the low light and the crowds created various challenges to be overcome.

    Mood and light

    Look carefully at this image and you’ll see that the ground is glistening after a rain shower. Together with the out of focus orange lights in the background, this helps to add mood to the photo.

    Mood and light

    The green fluorescent lights in this image create a different type of mood. The fluorescent light is ugly, rather than beautiful.

    Using color contrasts for more drama

    One of the key aspects of light at the end of the day is that it often utilizes the contrast between orange and blue. It is something you see a lot in the landscape, with the orange light from the setting sun contrasting with the blue of the sea. Or you may have a photo taken during the blue hour, with a corresponding contrast created by an artificial light source. Sadly, the practise of using fluorescent or white LED lighting is making this less common, but it is something to look out for.

    Mood and light

    This photo, taken during the golden hour, shows the contrast between the orange light casty by the setting sun on the tower and flag, and the blue sky.

    I recently came across an example of this color contrast in a blacksmith’s forge in Lincolnshire, UK. The forge is a historical building, and the people who work there use techniques that were used in the forge over a hundred years ago. The interior has changed little in that time – one of the blacksmiths told me that they are visited by people who remember the forge from childhood over 50 years ago, and say it still looks exactly as they remember it.

    There were two types of moody lighting in the forge. One was daylight coming through the small windows, the other was orange light coming from the fire in the forge, and sparks cast by the blacksmith as he worked. I chose to emphasize these even more in post-processing, by using a split tone to give the background a cold blue color.

    Mood and light

    What examples of moody lighting can you think of? Please let me know in the comments.


    Mastering Photography

    If you’d like to learn more about creating beautiful photos with light then please take a look at my ebook Mastering Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Using Digital Cameras.

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    The post How to Use Light to Create Moody Images by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Blood Red: 30 Vintage Soviet Accident Prevention Posters

    [ By Steve in Design & Graphics & Branding. ]

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-0
    In Soviet Russia, accident prevent you! That’s the message rendered in classic commie-propaganda style via these thirty soviet accident prevention posters.

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-1

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-3

    Graphic workplace accident prevention posters are nothing new, neither are they the purview of any one nation. That said, this selection of vintage Soviet accident prevention posters reflects a period in Russian history that was drenched in blood, sorrow, violence and loss – and not only on the factory floor.

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-2

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-4

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-5

    Oleg Atbashian, a former citizen of the Soviet Union who moved to the United States in 1994, doesn’t recall ever seeing these horrifying-to-the-point-of-being-comical posters. Atbashian worked as a metal worker apprentice at a large Ukrainian factory when he was a teenager and later, as a visual agitprop (agitation and propaganda) artist specializing in posters directed at construction workers. Atbashian was in the right place; just at the wrong time.

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-6

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-7

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-8

    Indeed, Atbashian’s USSR of the 1970s was quite a different place from the fledgling “communist paradise” of Lenin and Stalin. “They (the posters) reflect the zeitgeist of a completely different, less sensitive generation of Soviet citizens,” explains Atbashian, “who were so used to being disciplined, humiliated, and terrorized by the authorities that the least of their concerns would be to question some silly presumptive posters that described them as a herd of bumbling idiots being gored by machinery.” Geez Oleg, tell us what you really think!

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-30

    soviet-accident-prevention-poster-13

    Just as the communist system of government represented a clean break from the Czarist regimes which preceded it, graphic art in the nascent Soviet Union aspired to blaze a new trail in lockstep with the policies and philosophies of the Red Revolution.

    Next Page – Click Below to Read More:
    Blood Red 30 Vintage Soviet Accident Prevention Posters

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    [ By Steve in Design & Graphics & Branding. ]

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