Category: Photography

  • 104 Brand NEW Hacking Photography Lightroom Presets for $10 [Save 94%]

    Ever looked at a stunning image and wondered “why don’t mine look like that”?

    Here’s the secret: great photo editing – achievable with this ALL-NEW collection of 104 Lightroom presets from Hacking Photography!

    DPS Xmas Bundle Promo

    Today’s deal in our 12 Deals of Christmas is deal #7 and it’s our biggest one yet with a whopping 94% off the normal retail price.

    This preset collection from Mike Newton at Hacking Photography has never been released before – in fact Mike created it specifically for today’s deal!

    Created specially for dPS, this deal includes:

    • The Evolution collection – 54 presets that turn up the volume of color adjustment and creativity (48 color, 6 black and white)
    • The Light Leaks collection – 25 special effects presets that emulate Holga-style, instant film, film burns and toy camera effects
    • The Custom Vignettes collection – 25 presets that add custom vignette styles around your images, in both black or white

    Head over to Mike’s site to see lots of before and after examples of these presets

    Screen Shot 2015 12 18 at 9 41 30 AM

    And with an INCREDIBLE discount of 94% for today, it works out to be just over 10 cents per preset!
    To be clear – these presets have never been available in any previous collections – they’re all brand new for you to grab today – but only at this price for 24 hours only!

    FAQ: These presets are for use in Lightroom and work on Lightroom 4, Lightroom 5, the standalone Lightroom 6 version (non Creative Cloud), and the Lightroom Creative Cloud version. They come with step by step instructions on how to install them.

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    The post 104 Brand NEW Hacking Photography Lightroom Presets for $ 10 [Save 94%] by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Holiday Lights

    Tracy Sigler

    By Tracy Sigler

    Photography of lights at night can be fun. There are many things you do and techniques to enhance photos of lights:

    • Shoot at an aperture of f/11 or smaller to make star points on the light sources
    • Use long exposures to shoot light trails
    • Use a zoom technique to create a unique effect
    • Or just shoot them straight up at night

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Holiday Lights

    Your job this week is to photograph some lights. If there are no decorations near where you live try some car trails, or street lights. Just try some shooting in the dark, or a new technique you haven’t tried before.

    Mike Schaffner

    By Mike Schaffner

    Chris

    By Chris

    Powershotpix

    By powershotpix

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    DAVID MELCHOR DIAZ

    By DAVID MELCHOR DIAZ

    Counse

    By Counse

    Olivier Noirhomme

    By Olivier Noirhomme

    Jeff Krause

    By Jeff Krause

    Johan Hansson

    By Johan Hansson

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    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Holiday Lights by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Sigma 18-300mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro Lens Review

    It seems that in the world of photography today the demand for lighter, and more versatile, gear is at an all time high. The average photographer (if there is such a thing) wants to be able to cover a huge variety of subjects, and carry as few lenses as possible. Shooting quick and light has become the goal of many. In addition, even the hobbyist photographer has become more knowledgeable and more discerning about what cameras and lenses they choose to use. This has lead to an increased demand for all-in-one lenses that are built to higher performance standards than we’ve saw since, well, ever.

    Enter the Sigma 18-300mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM C Lens

    Lens 1

    Now, take a mental breath after reading that title and then we’ll continue. Don’t let the name for this lens (which I will shorten to Sigma 18-300mm) trouble you, because we’ll talk more about all those letters and their meanings soon. Sigma has attempted to squeeze a lot of features, versatility, and performance into a lens that won’t break the bank. Let’s see if the good folks over at Sigma have succeeded.

    The lengthy title for the Sigma 18-300mm is simply a road map so that you know exactly what the lens brings to the table.

    • The DC of course means that it is intended for digital camera bodies.
    • OS designates the lens is equipped with image stabilization technology.
    • HSM relays that the lens sports a hypersonic motor drive autofocusing mechanism.
    • The macro designation means that it has a relatively close minimum focusing distance and is capable of producing macro images (1.0x or 1.1x magnification).
    • Lastly, C stands for indicated this lens is part of Sigma’s Contemporary series. This lens is designed to be mounted only to APS-c(cropped) sensor cameras.

    Down to business…

    Lens 4

    Build Quality and Function

    The lens arrived well packaged from Sigma. The optics were all clean and free of smudges and dust. First handling of the lens proved to be immediately impressive.

    Lens Elements

    Specs

    The lens felt very solid but in no way overly heavy. Both the focus and zoom rings are rubberized, and provide a suitable grip for cold or damp fingers. Everything is exceptionally tight and smooth. Some telephoto lenses of this type arrive a little too tight and require some use before the zoom ring operates easily, but the Sigma 18-300mm was just right out of the box. Autofocusing performed very well and was quite fast using my Canon 7D, but the image stabilization was not the best. It became virtually unnoticeable at longer focal lengths, so it remained off for the majority of the test images.

    The overall body of the lens is finished with a very understated yet attractive matte black appearance, in case you love form as much as function. Included in the box is quality petal-type lens hood, which fits the lens perfectly and mounts in reverse for storage. Sigma also placed a small rubberized ring at the base of the hood which really helps in the on/off application. It’s a small detail but worth mentioning.

    Speaking of details: The effort (or lack thereof) a manufacturer puts towards the little things is of great importance. Here are a few small points that stand out about the Sigma 18-300mm.

    • Zoom-Lock: The zoom-lock switch is a great feature for any zoom lens in my opinion, by preventing gravity from gradually extending the lens while carrying your camera on a strap.
    • Raised mounting indicators: Attaching your lens to your camera can be difficult in low light or if you’re in a hurry. Sigma has chosen to use a small white bead embedded into the lens body instead of merely paint. It makes lining up the lens much easier, and is longer lasting.
    • Lens Hood Indicators: In addition to the rubberized ring, the lens hood also has mounting markings to help mount the hood on the go or in low light.

    Lens 3

    Lens 9 Lens 10

    Lens 8

    Lens 12

    Image Quality

    Sharpness and Distortion

    Test images showed that sharpness is acceptable/good across all apertures for a lens in this range, and likewise with contrast. Each of these images were shot at 18mm, at apertures ranging from f/3.5 to f/22. Maximum sharpness seemed to be achieved between f/8 and f/16.

    F3 5

    Shot at f/3.5

    F5 6

    Shot at f/5.6

    F8

    Shot at f/8

    F16

    Shot at f/16

    F22

    Shot at f/22

    There is some moderate softening at the corners, and minor vignetting at 18mm, but it’s not overly distracting. Very minimal, if any, distortion was encountered even at the shortest focal length.

    Wide

    This is a scene shot at the shortest focal length of 18mm and at f/6.3.

    For comparison, here are two images shot from the previous vantage point, after zooming to 300mm (shot at f/6.3).

    300mm 1

    300mm 2

    Color

    Color rendition is very good with the Sigma 18-300mm. Colors came through true to life, and quite crisp across all focal lengths. However, it had a significant amount of chromatic aberration which was quite apparent, and worsened towards the edges of the frame. Fortunately, it was easily removed with one click using Lightroom, so all is not lost.

    Macro Use

    After-all, this lens bears the designation of a macro lens so let’s talk a little about how it truly performs as such. Dedicated macro lenses produce images with a magnification factor of around 1.0 or 1.1x (meaning the subject is life size on the camera sensor). The Sigma 18-300mm has a maximum magnification factor of 1.3x. Though it may not be considered a true macro lens, it performs astonishing well for a lens with such a large focal range.

    Macro

    Sigma lists the minimum focusing distance at around 15.3 inches (39cm), but in my tests focus was achieved even closer. You can really get up close and personal using this lens. In addition, there is an optional macro adapter (great build also) available for this lens which will further enhance its macro capabilities.

    Macro Adapter

    Extras

    An interesting accessory available for this, and most Sigma glass, is a USB dock which can be used for tweaking the parameters of your particular lens. This could be of some use to the sports and wildlife crowd. Here is a description of the docking station provided by Sigma.

    “The Sigma USB dock works in conjunction with Sigma Optimization Pro software in order to connect a photographer’s lens to their personal computer to update firmware, calibrate the lens and other customizations such as the focus parameter. For the Sports category, changes can be made to: Autofocus speed, focus limiters, manual focus override and optical stabilization functionality. Updating the firmware can be done via the internet. Sigma Photo Pro is available for Mac and PC computers.”

    Summary

    Overall, the Sigma 18-300mm lens does a fantastic job of combining high telephoto zoom capabilities with macro functionality. While not perfect, it performs well in many ways.

    Here’s what you’ll probably like:

    • Great focal range for a multitude of shooting situations.
    • Low optical distortion.
    • Surprisingly acceptable macro performance.
    • Build quality is absolutely fantastic.
    • Attention to detail and usability is superb.
    • Good sharpness for a lens in this price range.
    • Fast autofocus.
    • Silky smooth operation of zoom and focusing rings.
    • Available USB Calibration Dock.

    Lens 14

    Here’s what you may not like:

    • Moderate but resolvable chromatic aberration.
    • Image stabilization performance is questionable.

    The Sigma 18-300mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM C is a more than capable lens option for those where are seeking to combine the local focal range of a telephoto lens, with the close-up capabilities of a macro.

    Does this lens offer the best of both worlds? No.

    Does this lens bring you a little bit of both, while offering great image quality at an affordable price? Yes.

    Sigma has produced a very capable lens option which will delight those who maintain realistic performance expectations from their gear. It is an impressive lens at a budget price. Give it a try!

    Have you tried this lens or any other all-in-one? What are your thoughts?

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    The post Sigma 18-300mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro Lens Review by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 25 Glitzy Holiday Lights Photos to Sparkle up Your Day

    Holiday time is almost upon us, however you celebrate. Regardless of location, it seems we all like to glam up a little and decorate. Let’s look at these glitzy holiday lights photos, including some abstract and zooming techniques:

    Ginny

    By Ginny

    Howard Ignatius

    By Howard Ignatius

    Dave Wilson

    By Dave Wilson

    Always Shooting

    By Always Shooting

    Billy Wilson

    By Billy Wilson

    Kkmarais

    By kkmarais

    Robert Couse-Baker

    By Robert Couse-Baker

    Frank Farm

    By Frank Farm

    Maf04

    By maf04

    Matthew Paulson

    By Matthew Paulson

    André Mellagi

    By André Mellagi

    Howard Ignatius

    By Howard Ignatius

    James Morley

    By James Morley

    Nathan Reading

    By Nathan Reading

    Marco Ghitti

    By Marco Ghitti

    Vitorcius

    By Vitorcius

    Hernán Piñera

    By Hernán Piñera

    Kevin Dooley

    By Kevin Dooley

    Gorfor

    By gorfor

    Aurimas

    By Aurimas

    MissTessmacher

    By MissTessmacher

    Howard Ignatius

    By Howard Ignatius

    Dawn Ashley

    By Dawn Ashley

    Mike

    By Mike

    Tulane Public Relations

    By Tulane Public Relations

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    The post 25 Glitzy Holiday Lights Photos to Sparkle up Your Day by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Take your Composition & Lighting Skills to the Next Level with this 70% Off Deal

    It’s time for day 6 of our 12 Deals of Christmas and this one is from our good friends at Photography Concentrate who have two fantastic eBooks for you to choose from (and a great offer when you pick them both up).

    Concentrate ebooks

    Incredibly Important Composition Skills

    Are you ready to unlock your superpowers in composition and gain real skills that you’ll use in every single shot you take?

    Save 60% on this ebook and video guide from Photography Concentrate (and get a bonus Printable Field Guide and 7 bonus teaching videos)!

    Fantastic Fundamental Light Skills

    When you understand why light looks and behaves the way it does, you’ll know how to control and change it to suit your creative vision – and take better photos.

    Save 60% today on this comprehensive guide (and get a bonus Printable Field Guide)!

    Bundle Them Together

    Grab both Incredibly Important Composition Skills and Fantastic Fundamental Light Skills in this amazing combo deal (with all the bonuses mentioned above).

    A HUGE 70% OFF for 24 hours only!

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    The post Take your Composition & Lighting Skills to the Next Level with this 70% Off Deal by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Tips for Better Landscape Photos

    Landscape photography seems simple to most people – there’s a pretty scene, you walk in, take a couple shots and you’re done … and chances are that you end up with a version of the scene that everyone else has.  So how do you take your “snapshot” to the next level?  Other than the “straight horizon” suggestion that you may have heard before, here are five basic tips you can try out when next you are on the field to help you take better landscape photos:

    WinterLighthouse

    1. Survey Your Scene

    Think about the scene differently. Is there another angle that you can shoot from? Can you get your camera higher or lower? Scouting your location to find different and more interesting vantage points is time well spent.  Also check for elements of interest in the location that can be used to give your photo a sense of scale or add texture. So take a moment, survey your scene, take a chance, shoot from a different perspective and see what you might have missed initially.

    CastleHill

    2. Look for the Light

    Most surreal landscape photography moments happen in the golden hours (dawn and dusk). Sunrise is definitely worth getting out of your bed for in the wee hours of the morning, and sunset is a nice exercise in patience to catch that ideal, magical light. It certainly helps to do research before you head out to determine where the sun rises and sets, or even which season works well for the area you intend to shoot. If you’re still unsure about your directions, walk with a compass (a compass apps for your phone is an easy way to always have one with you).

    DesertSun

    SunsetBrickfield

    There is no harm in light chasing during the day either – sometimes it’s the only time you have with a scene, and you have to make the most of it. You need to be aware that shooting in harsh sunlight produces very contrasty light, which means that you don’t capture much detail in the highlight and shadow areas. An overcast, or cloudy day, softens the light a bit. Outside of the golden hours, the key would be to find an angle where the light is flattering to your subject, or put the sun to your back and give it a go!

    CaribbeanDay

    HorseshoeBend

    Note: I have found that midday sun works well for infrared landscape photography.

    3. Lines and Repetition

    Lines and repetition in a scene catch your viewer’s attention almost immediately, and serves to lead them into the photo. Lines also encourages their eyes to wander around the photo, especially if they start at a corner of the frame. Think about photos of roads and fences, and even the angle of the ocean when composing your shot. Repetitive items or patterns also have a way of holding your viewer’s fascination, and they are everywhere – any element that creates a nice line or geometric shape can give your images structure and form – look for them!

    BeavertailLighthouse

    PathwaytoGoodbye

    4. Foreground Elements

    Placing a foreground element in your shot gives the image extra depth and dimension. It can also be used to convey scale and distance, as well as balance out your photo. A dominant foreground object can draw your viewer in, and quite simply makes your photo a more interesting one.

    SunsetWaterloo

    SmokyCreek

    5. Use a Tripod

    There are different schools of thought on the necessity of always having a tripod, and yes there are many times you can get away without having one. However, outdoor photography comes with many elements of movement, from a gentle breeze to crashing waves, to the sun – something is always moving. Sharp images are ideally what you want, and using a tripod is one way to deal with such movements.

    Tripods are also a must for when you lengthen your shutter speed. You may do this for several reasons; the most common are when using a smaller aperture (higher f-numbers equals smaller aperture opening, which equals less light hitting the sensor) or shooting long exposures (where moving elements are blurred intentionally, e.g., that silky water effect).

    LighteningArches

    SmokyFalls

    Conclusion

    Many of these may not be new to you, but the key is remembering a few when you are out there, and trying to make that scene before you, one that is your own. Maybe you’ll spend a little more time surveying the scene or perhaps looking for lines and repetition?

    Feel free to share any of your landscape photos that you think successfully utilizes any one of these tips in the comments below.

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    The post 5 Tips for Better Landscape Photos by Nisha Ramroop appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Contest: Win one of Two Tamron Lenses

    Win a Tamron 16-300mm Di II VC PZD Macro All-In-One Zoom Lens OR a Tamron 18-200MM F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC All-In-One Zoom Lens!

    16300VCPZD-Tamron-16-300mm.jpg 16300VCPZD-Tamron-16-300mm.jpg

    Over the last few years here at dPS, we’ve run very some very popular competitions with our partners to give away to lucky dPS readers some of their great photographic products.

    We are lucky enough to be able to do it again this week. For this competition, Tamron is giving away TWO lenses.

    Win one of two Tamron lenses

    These two unique prizes are designed to help every level of photographer create BETTER pictures. Tamron is the world’s most awarded photographic lens line. Each prize will be won by a different dPS reader. Here’s what you could win:

    16300VCPZD Tamron 16 300mm

    Tamron 16-300mm Di II VC PZD Macro

    Grand Prize

    Our Grand Prize Winner will receive a 16-300mm Macro All-In-One Zoom Lens.

    Tamron 16-300mm Di II VC PZD Macro – Value $ 629. For Canon, Nikon or Sony small-sensor cameras.

    Tamron 16-300mm Di II VC PZD Macro

    Runner Up Prize

    18200 B018 Tamron 18 200mm

    Tamron 18-200mm Di II VC

    The Runner Up will receive an 18-200mm Di II VC All-In-One Zoom Lens.

    Tamron 18-200mm Di II VC – Value $ 249. For Canon, Nikon or Sony small-sensor cameras.

    Tamron 18-200mm Di II VC

    Learn a little more about Tamron here: Tamron.com

    How to win:

    To win this competition you’ll need to:

    • Visit the above lens information pages and learn more about the lens and its core use.
    • Leave a comment below and tell us why you’d like to win and HOW you would you utilize the lens. Please note: there is a limit of ONE entry per person.
    • Deadline to enter is January 7th, 2016 11:59 p.m. PST (UTC-8). Comments left after deadline will not be considered. Do this in the next 21 days, and on January 14, 2016, the team at dPS will choose the best two answers and we will announce the winners in the following days.

    By “best” – we’re looking for you to show an understanding of the lenses and how they will best suit your needs. So you’ll need to check out the product pages to put yourself in the best position to win. There’s no need to write essay length comments to win – but we’re looking to hear what you like about the lens and how it would help your development as a photographer.

    This contest is open to everyone, no matter where you live – but there is only one entry per person. To enter – simply leave your comment below.

    Canon Beach ken hubbard resized

    Photo by Ken Hubbad

    Tamron logo

    About Tamron

    Disclaimer: Tamron is a paid partner of dPS.

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    The post Contest: Win one of Two Tamron Lenses by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Tips for Capturing Dramatic Skies in your Landscape Photography

    Don’t let the land in landscape photography fool you–a great landscape photo relies just as much on the sky. Boring gray skies make for boring landscape photos. But capturing a dramatic sky in camera is trickier than it seems. With the sky lighter than the land, the camera will typically overexpose the sky, turning a brilliant blue into a vague and unexciting gray.

    But, with a little fine tuning, it is possible to capture a sky that is the cherry-on-top of a great scene on land. Here are six tips for capturing more dramatic skies in your landscape photography.

    Desolation Wildernes Sunset Jkatzphoto

    Photo Courtesy Justin Katz Photography.

    1 – Time it right

    Landscape photography may not require the split second timing that’s necessary for capturing a toddler’s smile, or a wide receiver’s catch, but timing is still a big part of the picture. The sky that’s gray one day, could be bright blue the next. When planning out a landscape photo, consider how the timing will impact the sky.

    Watch for weather patterns that add could add interest to a shot, like a storm brewing just on the horizon. Weather plays a big role in the overall mood of the image–if you’re hoping to capture a dark and gloomy shot, head out when the sky is stormy. On the opposite end, if you’re hoping to capture a more relaxed or happy feeling, look for blue skies dotted with clouds.

    Yosemite Tunnel View Jkatzphoto

    Photo Courtesy Justin Katz Photography.

    The time of day matters too. While the middle of the day will produce the most shadows on the land, the sky tends to be the bluest then. Just after sunset and just before sunrise is often a good time to capture wispy clouds and a warmer tint of light. Of course, sunrise and sunset makes for a dramatic sky as well.

    2 – Try the wrong white balance

    Photography rules are sometimes meant to be broken–sometimes, using the wrong white balance setting creates a more dramatic sky. This is especially true when shooting towards the beginning or end of the day–using a different preset will adjust the color in the sky. Auto, cloudy and shade presets will get you an orange-ish sunset with a light blue sky, with a slight variation between the settings. A florescent setting, on the other hand, will typically turn an orange sunset purple, with a brilliant blue sky. Tungsten offers a similar effect, but with even deeper colors.

    Whitebalancepresets

    Using Kelvin temperatures to adjust your white balance results in an even greater control over the colors in the sky. Around 5500K will usually capture a sunny sky with an accurate white balance–that is, where things that are white are still white in the picture, or neutral tones. A higher temperature, for example 6500K, will give the land an orange glow but also enhance the colors in a sunset. A cooler temperature, on the other hand (say 3000), will play up the blues and purples. By using the Kelvin scale, you have more options for picking a white balance setting that best captures those colors.

    White Balance 16,000 K

    Photo © Hillary Grigonis – White Balance edited to 160,000 K in post-processing to add orange

    While it’s always best to get the shot right in camera, shooting in RAW allows you even more flexibility when it comes to adjusting the colors in the sky (and the rest of the image, for that matter). If you perhaps overdid it by making the shot too warm or too cool, you can easily adjust it to find the color temperature that fits the image the best. If you have a landscape photo that you already shot in RAW, open it and try different white balance presets, or the temperature slider, to see first hand how shooting with a different white balance would have impacted the shot.

    3 – Compose for the sky

    When the sky is more dramatic than the land, why not use that when determining your composition? Pay attention to where you place the horizon when you are composing your shot. Using the rule of thirds to imagine the image is dived into threes, place the horizon on one of those horizontal lines. If you are shooting a photo with an average looking sky, try placing the horizon on the upper third of the image, so more of the land is included in the photo. But if the sky is really dramatic, take advantage of that and include more of it in the frame by placing the horizon on the lower third.

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt – The sky is dramatic so the image was composed to show less ground and more sky by placing the horizon toward the bottom.

    Ádám Tomkó

    By Ádám Tomkó – as the sky is less dramatic, the horizon placed higher helps minimize the sky.

     

    4 – Use a filter

    There are two filters every landscape photographer should have in their camera bag in order to capture more dramatic skies. The first is a graduated neutral density filter. A regular neutral density filter is like putting sunglasses over your lens–it limits the light coming in for bright scenes or long exposures. But a graduated neutral density filter places that darkening effect only on a portion of the image. By placing the dark portion of the filter over the sky, you can properly expose the entire scene. Without the filter, the sky will either be overexposed and bland, or the land will be underexposed and dark. With the filter, you can achieve an exposure that works for both in one shot. The only downside is that graduated neutral density filters don’t work as well with an uneven horizon, like shooting a cityscape. Graduated neutral density filters come in both circular and square formats, but the square is often preferred because you can then place the horizon anywhere in the frame.

    A graduated neutral density filter doesn’t work in every scenario–like a very uneven horizon, for example. A polarizing filter doesn’t have as much of an effect on the sky, but it can still be used with uneven horizons. Polarizing filters work by adjusting the reflected light rays coming through your camera lens. Since the sky is blue because of these reflecting rays, turning the front of the polarizing filter will adjust the intensity of the blues in the sky. Since it just affects reflected light rays, it can still be used when mountains or buildings make the horizon uneven. Polarizing filters are also great for enhancing reflections off water or other shiny surfaces too.

    Lake Tahoe Sunset Nevada Jkatzphoto

    Photo Courtesy Justin Katz Photography.

    Experiment with motion blur and long exposures

    Long exposures aren’t just for photographing waterfalls. If you use a long enough shutter speed, the clouds will blur too, creating a sky of wispy clouds and a slight feeling of motion. To capture motion blur in the clouds, you’ll need to use a long shutter speed. The best settings will depend a bit on the weather and how much motion blur you’d like, but you can try starting with a two minute exposure and adjust up or down from there.

    Kris Williams

    By Kris Williams (Exposure info: ISO 200, f/22 for 75 seconds)

    If you are shooting during the day, you may not be able to balance out a two minute exposure with a narrow enough aperture or low enough ISO, ending up with a photo that’s way too bright. So how do photographers capture motion blur in the clouds when the photo obviously wasn’t taken at dusk or dawn? A neutral density filter helps block out some of that light so you can use a long exposure during the day (that’s the same thing as the graduated neutral density filter from the last tip, only the entire filter is dark instead of just half).

    Image used with permission of Matt Kloskowski

    Image used with permission of Matt Kloskowski (10 second exposure)

     

    Use the Camera RAW graduated filter tool

    While it’s always best to get the shot right in-camera, there are a few editing tools that can improve the sky in your landscape photos. One of those tools is the graduated filter inside Adobe Camera RAW (works the same in Photoshop and Lightroom). Using the tool, you can click over the sky on the image. Like an actual graduated filter, the effect will only cover that portion of the image and gradually fade away, making it possible to create natural looking edits.

    The graduated filter tool can be used to adjust the exposure, creating an effect much like using the actual filter. But, the Camera RAW tool can also adjust brightness, contrast, saturation, clarity, sharpness and color. That opens up a lot of possibilities for applying edits just to the sky for more drama that sometimes can’t be done in-camera.

    Original imag

    Original image

    Graduated filter added in post-processing stage

    Graduated filter added in post-processing stage

    The sky can make or break a landscape photo. From timing and composition to filters, when you consider the sky as you shoot, you’ll end up with more dramatic, frame-worthy shots.

    Do you have any other tips for creating dramatic skies in landscape photography?

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    The post 6 Tips for Capturing Dramatic Skies in your Landscape Photography by Hillary Grigonis appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Today Only: 70% Off Our 101 Lightroom Presets Pack

    Presets coverToday is Day 3 in our 12 Deals of Christmas and we’re slightly worried about server capacity on this one because it’s 70% off our most popular dPS product of 2015 – our very own Lightroom preset collection!

    Grab them before the deal ends here.

    For just $ 10 USD this deal gets you 101 useful Lightroom* presets. That’s less than 10 cents per preset!

    These presets are simple to use, are exceptional quality and will enable you to transform your images in a click. Full instructions are included, so you’ll be walked step-by-step how to install and use them in Lightroom.

    Preset bundles like this might set you back upwards of $ 100 on other sites but for today only this pack can be yours today only for just USD $ 10!

    Grab yours before time is up.

    Note: Even though these presets are just $ 10 each, they are still fully backed by our 60-day money-back guarantee. If you don’t find them useful simply contact our support team within 60 days and we’ll return your $ 10.

    *All 101 presets in this pack work flawlessly with Lightroom versions 4, 5 & 6, or Lightroom CC. Lightroom is required to use these presets.

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    The post Today Only: 70% Off Our 101 Lightroom Presets Pack by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • 5 Essential Things You Need to Know About the Lightroom Library Module

    Essential things Lightroom

    For those of you who have been following my Lightroom articles I thought it would be fun to test your knowledge. We’ll start with the Lightroom Library module because the work you do here, lays the foundation for everything you do inside Lightroom. Master the Library module and you’ll be well on your way to becoming an expert on the entire program.

    Ready? Let’s start with what is probably the most important thing of all – backing up your Catalog.

    1. How to back up your Catalog

    This is really important. Your Lightroom Catalog is absolutely essential because it’s where Lightroom stores every piece of information it has about your photos. Not only does this include the location of your photos (i.e., where they are saved on your hard drive) but any metadata associated with them (from camera settings to keywords), Lightroom specific information (such as which Collections a photo belongs to) and any edits you have made in the Develop module. Yes, these are all stored in the Catalog.

    How much of a disaster would it be if you lost all this data? I’m sure it would be a major loss. That’s why it’s so important that you back up your Catalog regularly. You should also back it up to an external hard drive, not to an internal one, in case your computer is lost or stolen.

    You can check your back up settings by going to Lightroom > Catalog Settings. Click the General tab – Back up catalog should be set to Every Time Lightroom Exits as shown below.

    Essential things to know about Lightroom

    Connect the external hard drive on which you back up your Catalog, then exit Lightroom. Before Lightroom closes down, it displays the Back Up Catalog window. The Backup Folder setting should point to a folder on your external hard drive. If it doesn’t, click Choose and change it now.

    Essential things to know about Lightroom

    When you exit Lightroom is the only time you will see this popup box, and the only place you can change where it saves the backup of your catalog.

    Make sure the Test integrity before backing up and Optimize catalog after backing up boxes are ticked. When you’re done click the Back up button. Lightroom will save a backup of your Catalog to your external hard drive before closing. This may take some time, especially for a large Catalog, so be patient.

    Some important things to note about Catalog backups:

    • You only need to keep the last two or three backups. You can delete older ones to free up hard drive space.
    • If you have Lightroom 6 or Lightroom CC the backed up Catalogs are compressed, saving hard drive space.
    • You should always back up your Lightroom Catalog to a different hard drive than the one the main Catalog is stored on. That way, if your main hard drive fails, the backed up Catalog is safe.
    • Once a month (or more often if you like) copy the latest backup to Dropbox, Google Drive or another cloud storage solution. This is to protect you in case you lose both your computer and your external hard drive to theft or fire. The location and name of your Lightroom Catalog are recorded in Catalog Settings.

    Essential things to know about Lightroom

    2. How to back up your photos

    This is important to mention because I want to make sure you understand that your photos are not stored inside Lightroom, or in the Catalog. Your photos are saved on your hard drive (or drives) and you need to back them up yourself. It is your responsibility – Lightroom doesn’t do it for you.

    There are many ways of backing up photos, you need to find the method that works best for you. However I’m sure it will help if I share my method. Feel free to use, adapt or ignore it.

    • Create a folder called Raw. All your Raw files are stored in there (I shoot everything in Raw – you could simply call your folder something like Photos if you shoot a mixture of Raw and JPEG).
    • In that folder create a new folder for every year you take photos.

    essential things about Lightroom

    • In each of those folders, create 12 folders, one for every month of the year.

    essential things about Lightroom

    • Whenever you import photos into Lightroom, select the correct destination folder depending on the month and year the photos were taken.
    • Place each shoot into a folder of its own. You can either give it a name or organize the folders by date.

    essential things about Lightroom

    This system works because it’s easy to see whether your Raw files are backed up. Want to back up all your Raw files to another hard drive? Just copy the Raw folder. Want to see whether you’ve backed up all the photos you’ve taken this month? It’s easy to do so with this system.

    By the way, I keep my Raw files backed up to four different external hard drives, one of which is stored off-site. That way, if one of the hard drives fails, I have three other copies.

    3. How to set up File Handling in Catalog Settings

    The File Handling settings are important because they help you strike a balance between optimizing Lightroom’s performance speed, and using hard drive space.

    The first thing you need to look at is the total size of the cache. This tells you how much hard drive space your previews take up. For example, looking at mine (see below) I can see my Lightroom previews are currently taking up 28GB.

    Essential things to know about Lightroom

    It’s important to keep some of your hard drive free (at least 10%, but preferably more) otherwise Lightroom will slow down (as will everything else your computer does). If you are running out of hard drive space, come and have a look here to see if your preview files are too large.

    There are two steps to keeping your previews file under control.

    1. Make sure Lightroom is generating the optimum size Standard Previews. These are used to display your photos in Loupe View and don’t need to be any larger than your monitor’s resolution.

    If you have Lightroom 6 or Lightroom CC you can set the size to Auto. Lightroom will calculate the optimum size for you. In Lightroom 5 or earlier pick the size that best matches your monitor’s resolution.

    Set Preview Quality to Medium – it gives you the best balance between quality and size.

    Essential things to know about Lightroom

    2. Set Automatically Discard 1:1 Previews to After 30 Days. You need 1:1 previews for zooming in to photos, and working on them in the Develop module. However, they are very large. If you generated 1:1 previews for every photo in your Catalog, and never deleted them, you would eventually run out of hard drive space. To be honest, it doesn’t really matter which setting you choose here as long as it’s not set to Never. You can always regenerate discarded 1:1 previews if you need them again later.

    4. How to search for images

    One of the benefits of building the Lightroom architecture on a database is that it is easy to search your photos. You do this in the Filter Bar, which is displayed above the Content Window in Grid View (press ‘\’ on the keyboard if you don’t see it).

    There are three types of searches:

    1. Text: Search keywords, filenames, titles, captions, etc., for text sequences.
    2. Attribute: Filter by flag, star rating, colour label or file kind (master photo, virtual copy, or video).
    3. Metadata: Search by date, camera, lens, camera setting (ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc.), aspect ratio or any of the dozen or so search options listed there.

    Have a play with these options to see how it works. Just bear in mind that Lightroom is searching the selected folders or Collections, not your entire Catalog when you do so (select All Photographs to search your entire library).

    Essential things to know about Lightroom

    5. How to use Collections

    Collections are virtual Folders, which you use to organize your images. Folders are limited because a single photo can only be stored in one Folder at a time. The same photo can be stored in as many Collections as you like, making Collections the easiest, and most flexible, way to organize your photos.

    An example of this is a photo taken of a person called Jenny in Rome in November 2015. The photo can only be stored in one Folder, but it can be added to a Collection called Jenny, another one called Rome, another called 2015 – in fact as many as you need.

    Your folders should be set up to make backing up easy (see earlier point). Your Collections should be used to organize your photos. My article Use Lightroom Collection to Improve your Workflow will help you with this.

    Your turn

    Of course, this list is not exhaustive, but I’d like to hear your thoughts as well. What do you think is essential to know about the Library module? Do you have any questions about the points raised in this article? Please let me know in the comments below.


    The Mastering Lightroom CollectionMastering Lightroom ebook bundle

    My Mastering Lightroom ebooks are a complete guide to using Lightroom’s Library and Develop modules. Written for Lightroom 4, 5, 6 and CC  they  show you how to import and organise your images, use Collections, creatively edit your photos and how to work in black and white.

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    The post 5 Essential Things You Need to Know About the Lightroom Library Module by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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