Category: Photography

  • dPS Holiday Week

    We hope you’re already in full swing of your holidays and having a great time with family and friends. Just wanted to drop you a quick note to let you know what to expect here in dPS over the next week or so, in case you got some new photography gadgets and are itching to try them out.

    Will Montague

    By Will Montague

    From now until New Years – the best of dPS 2015

    It’s that time again for me to dig through last year’s articles and find the best, most popular ones, for you. Starting off tomorrow with the hottest landscape articles of 2015, we’ll have a new topic each day, with several articles for you to read or review.

    Starting off 2016 – getting back into the things slowly

    After all the parties are over, we’ll get back to our regular schedule of two articles a day on January 3rd (Australia time). For the first couple days you’ll see the wrap-up of the Best Of series, and just one post per day from us, then it’s back to business as usual.

    So expect some good reading coming up. If you have some time you can catch up on a few articles you may have missed or focus on learning a new, specific technique.

    Also remember to keep an eye  on our 12 deals page for some great photography deals.

    Melissa Brawner

    By melissa brawner

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    The post dPS Holiday Week by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Don’t Miss Out: These 12 Photography Deals Will Disappear With 2015

    Over the last 12 days we’ve presented you with some amazing daily deals on photography training resources in our 6th annual 12 days of Christmas.

    photography deals

    The savings this year were our biggest yet and we had a lot of really positive feedback from readers who picked up some fantastic deals.

    As in previous years we did get a few sad messages from readers who missed deals along the way asking if there was any way to get them.

    As a result – today we’re opening all 12 deals back up again for one last chance.

    So if there’s a deal you regret missing or you might have missed one of our emails – you’re in luck. Here they are!

    • Deal 1: Natural Light ebook bargains!
    • Deal 2: 85% OFF Cole’s Classroom Lightroom Course
    • Deal 3: 101 dPS Lightroom presets for ONLY $ 10!
    • Deal 4: The Ultimate Landscapes Bundle!
    • Deal 5: 54% OFF Phil Steele’s Event Photography Course
    • Deal 6: Photography Concentrate Composition & Light guides
    • Deal 7: 104 NEW Hacking Photography Lightroom Presets for $ 10
    • Deal 8: $ 5 Snapn Motion mini-guide
    • Deal 9: dPS Portraits ebooks by Gina Milicia $ 7 each… or 4 for $ 21!
    • Deal 10: dPS Photo Nuts Courses – 2 for $ 30!
    • Deal 11: All dPS ebooks $ 10!
    • Deal 12: Black & White Photo Artistry Course – 60% OFF!a

    All these will be available until midnight US Eastern time on 31st of December, after that they will be gone for ever (just like 2015) – so get to it and grab yours today!

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    The post Don’t Miss Out: These 12 Photography Deals Will Disappear With 2015 by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Deal 12: Black & White Photo Artistry Course – 60% OFF!

    CVnMZHSrqAfZHd4w1Q6yEDCwWW1K9VKWcEPX91Nk2NkIt’s the final day of our 12 deals of Christmas and we’ve saved one of our best deals until last.

    Last year Sebastian Michaels smashed every dPS record with his Fine Art Grunge Composition course. This year he’s back, with this brand new Black & White Photo Artistry course!

    … and you can save 60% on the regular price right now.

    This course brings together all Sebastian’s best photo artistry approaches and techniques and expands on them within the specific realm of creative black and white.

    You’ll discover the pro secrets for producing stunning works of photo art. Awesome, intricate black and white compositions fit for print and canvas. All while honing your photography skills!

    Ready to create the most artistic photo works of your life? Grab this deal with a 60% saving today only!

    We think it’s a brilliant final deal in the 12 dPS days of Christmas and well know you’ll cherish everything it will teach you.

    Grab this deal before it is gone here.

    PS: Sebastian has put together 3 amazing bonuses for dPS readers – scroll down his information page to see them – they make this an even better deal!

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    The post Deal 12: Black & White Photo Artistry Course – 60% OFF! by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Happy Holidays 2015 from dPS

    dps happy holidays 2015

    It’s Christmas day in part of the world, where most of the dPS team is based. So Merry Christmas if you celebrate that – and Happy Holidays if you celebrate with another tradition.

    Thank you for being a reader and fan of dPS, we appreciate you being here, and we wish you all the best, and the happiest times with your family this season.

    THE COLOURS of CHRISTMAS... POINSETTIA by Magda Indigo on 500px.com

     

    Christmas dinner by Michal Marek on 500px.com

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    The post Happy Holidays 2015 from dPS by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Use Shadow and Contrast to Create Dramatic Images

    shadow and contrast

    You can use shadow and contrast to create dramatic images. The key is to forget about shadow detail. You don’t need it. Shadows are meant to be dark and mysterious. This is good – it leaves something to the viewer’s imagination.

    Utilize the dynamic range of your sensor. Expose for the highlights, and let the shadows fall where they will. If the light is strong enough, the shadows will contain very little detail.

    Harsh light can make dramatic images

    I took the following photo in Bolivia. The sun was sinking behind me, casting a strong shadow that had started to touch the underneath of the old car. The shadow fills the bottom third of the image. We don’t need detail in the shadow, although a little doesn’t hurt. Shoot in Raw format, and in most cases you’ll be able to pull some shadow detail out in post-processing, giving you a choice.

    shadow and contrast

    When I see a dramatic image like this, with strong shadows, my immediate instinct is to convert it to black and white. High contrast scenes look great in monochrome. There’s something about removing colour that emphasizes the depth of the shadows, and the drama of the composition. You can add impact by increasing contrast in Lightroom and emphasizing texture using the Clarity slider. Here’s my black and white conversion of the photo above.

    shadow and contrast

    Look for naturally contrasty scenes

    I took the next photo indoors, in an old manor house that had been converted to a museum. The apples were lit by light coming through a window. The windows were small, so the interior of the room was naturally dark, which is why there is so little detail in the background. It’s a high contrast scene – the area lit by window light ,is much brighter than the rest of the scene.

    shadow and contrast

    Here’s the same image converted to black and white. Without colour, the emphasis is on the textures and shadows.

    shadow and contrast

    Silhouettes

    The following photo of an approaching storm uses also uses shadow and contrast. The mountains are backlit and silhouetted. The approaching storm clouds are dark and ominous. A brightly lit strip of sky fills the gap between the two dark areas. A silhouetted telegraph pole forms a natural focal point. The drama of the light has created a dramatic image.

    shadow and contrast

    The image is naturally monochromatic, and converts well to black and white.

    shadow and contrast

    There are lots of shadows in this seascape. But the ones that caught my eye were the silhouetted figures on the right. After I had set up the shot, two children walked across the beach, and climbed up on the rock. I used a long shutter speed (30 seconds) to blur the water, which also blurred the silhouetted children. I was fortunate because the figures add human interest and scale to the scene. They are a natural focal point that pulls the eye across the photo.

    shadow and contrast

    shadow and contrast

    It also converted well to black and white.

    The final image is also one that uses shadow to create mystery and drama. I focused on the grass on the foreground, set a wide aperture, and let the sun go out of focus. I adjusted the white balance in Lightroom to emphasize the warmth of the setting sun. This image is different from the others in that the colour is an important part of the composition and it doesn’t work as well in black and white.

    shadow and contrast

    Conclusion

    One of my aims with this article is to dispel the idea that it is essential to capture lots of shadow detail, and that if you fail to do so, it is some kind of technical shortcoming. Not so – let’s celebrate the fact that camera sensors don’t capture the full range of brightness that our eyes are capable of seeing. Let’s use the interplay of light and shadow to create interesting and dynamic compositions. Let’s create some mystery and leave gaps for the viewer’s imagination to fill in.

    Do you use shadows in your images? Please share your images with lots of shadow and contrast in the comments below.


    Mastering Composition ebookMastering Composition

    My new ebook Mastering Composition will help you learn to see and compose photos better. It takes you on a journey beyond the rule of thirds, exploring the principles of composition you need to understand in order to make beautiful images.

     

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    The post How to Use Shadow and Contrast to Create Dramatic Images by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review: The Everyday Messenger Bag by Peak Design

    I have had several camera and equipment bags over the years, ranging from simple backpacks to over-the-shoulder models, to free bags that came with gear I bought. While all of them have been effective to varying degrees, each one has had its own share of problems. Some are too bulky, while others are not big enough. Some have pockets in strange places, and others have no pockets at all. Some have nicely-padded straps and big cushions for gear, but these usually result in bags that are too cumbersome and awkward for everyday use.

    In short, while all the bags I have used have been functional, none of them have been very well designed with a photographer’s needs in mind. Enter the Everyday Messenger Bag by Peak Design.

    everyday-messenger-bag-front-closed

    I first heard about this bag on an episode of This Week in Photo, where host Frederick Van Johnson interviewed Trey Ratcliff, a well-known photographer who was similarly frustrated with the state of modern camera carrying equipment. Ratcliff had been working with Peak Design to create a bag that was ideally suited for not just photographers, but anyone who would need to carry various things around on a daily basis. By the end of the podcast I was intrigue,d and within a few days my wife and I backed Ratcliff’s project on Kickstarter.

    However, like some of the other projects we had supported, we were not sure if our pledge would result in a high-quality product, or simply evaporate into cyberspace never to be heard from again. Thankfully Ratcliff and Peak Design held true to their word, and at the end of November our Everyday Messenger arrived, and we have been using it quite a bit ever since.

    Thoughtful Design

    At first glance the Everyday Messenger looks just like any other bag of its kind; it’s big enough for some cameras, a lens or two, and a laptop and/or tablet. There are pockets, a padded strap, and some zippers to let you access everything. In fact my initial reaction to the bag was a bit of a disappointment. Why spend more than $ 200 on a bag that seems the same as a $ 50 bagthat  I could buy from Amazon or a department store?

    The answer, I discovered after using it for a while, lies in the details. While not perfect, there are many subtle aspects to this bag that you just don’t normally see on other camera bags, which make the Everyday Messenger imminently more practical for photographers.

    everyday-messenger-bag-front-open

    “She may not look like much, but she’s got it where it counts” – Han Solo, describing either the Millennium Falcon or his Everyday Messenger bag.

    One of the biggest hassles with my other camera bags has been actually getting things out of the bagUsually it involves unbuckling a clasp, and fiddling with a zipper that goes around a few sides of the bag, to reveal the gear stuffed inside. It’s a cumbersome maneuver that can be anywhere from mildly irritating to downright frustrating, especially in the middle of a photo shoot.

    The Everyday Messenger solves this with a magnetic clasp that hooks to one of four positions, releases with a quick flick of your wrist, and snaps securely back in place with minimal effort. It also has two weather-sealed zippers on top; one which provides access to the main pouch and another for the laptop/tablet storage section in the back. All this adds up to a bag that is clearly designed to hold your equipment safe and secure, while letting you get at it as quickly as possible, and has quickly made all my other bags look archaic by comparison.

    everyday-messenger-bag-front-clasp

    The front clasp opens and closes easily, but locks securely. I thought it would be gimmicky at first, but it has turned out to be surprisingly useful, and quite durable.

    Attention to Detail

    There are dozens of little examples like this scattered throughout the Everyday Messenger bag that make it incredibly useful for photographers, as well as anyone else who needs a bag to carry things around. In fact my wife, a college professor, has been using it to carry all manner of papers and books, along with her laptop, around campus. After a week of using it she said, and I quote, “My official verdict is – it’s awesome.”

    The clasp on the shoulder strap adjusts with a quick release mechanism to make it longer or shorter, and even the strap itself is unique in its design. Instead of a shoulder pad that slides back and forth, a 15-inch section of the shoulder strap is padded from the inside. This not only eases much of the stress on my shoulder, but is far more comfortable than any other camera bag strap I have ever used. The strap seems well suited for those who like over-the-shoulder bags, but can also be made long enough to accommodate users who prefer to sling the bag across their chest.

    everyday-messenger-bag-all-open

    If you want pockets, this bag has plenty to spare.

    The little touches don’t stop with the shoulder strap and zippers. Two pockets on each side of the bag offer quick access to small things like lens filters, batteries, or even keys, which can be clipped to a security strap so they won’t get lost. Inner pockets in the lining of the bag are coded red and green, and are designed for memory cards or batteries that are either ready to go or all used up. The shoulder strap attaches to the bag itself with a rotating joint, instead of the common swivel style you see on most bags, which means the Everyday Messenger moves naturally at your hip instead of jostling back and forth. And unlike almost every other messenger-style bag I have used, this one stands perfectly upright whether empty or full, thanks to a thick underlining.

    All of this adds up to a bag that carries your stuff like any other, but does so in a way that is more practical and easier to use than you might expect.

    everyday-messenger-bag-strap-swivel

    The shoulder strap rotates front to back where it is attached to the bag, which makes things far more comfortable on long walks than most other bags.

    The inside of the Everyday Messenger looks like what you would expect – a big empty compartment, with velcro dividers to keep your larger gear items separate from each other. Unlike most other bags though, the creators added a somewhat unique twist on the dividers themselves; they are designed to fold and flex in order to accommodate oddly-sized equipment and even let you stack things on top of one another. If you have a larger lens it can be placed on the side, and multiple camera bodies can be put next to it, or stacked on top of each other, with everything padded on all sides. These dividers make the bag far more practical for photographers, as compared to traditional rectangular or messenger-style bags, but I should note that the dividers themselves do seem a tad flimsy compared to other bags I have used. Thus far they seem fine, but I wonder how well they will hold up after several months of daily use.

    Of course a camera bag is more than the sum of its features, and all the padding, pockets, and clever nooks and crannies in the world don’t matter if the bag is uncomfortable out in the field. Thankfully the Everyday Messenger does quite well in this regard. The padded neck strap and thick cross-bracing on top distribute the weight of the bag evenly, and even with a laptop, a camera, and some lenses in the bag, it was still fairly portable and easy to use. As with other aspects of the bag, only time will tell how it handles in the long run, but for now I can safely say that this one is much more comfortable and user-friendly than almost every other I have used.

    everyday-messenger-bag-gear-inside

    Thanks to the folding dividers I can pack a DSLR with lens attached, another lens on the side, and still have a large padded cavity on top of the extra lens for my flash or other items.

    The only reservations I have about wholeheartedly recommending this bag relate to its price, and overall durability. Peak Design claims it is made of: Weatherproof waxed 500D Kodra, which is used in many outdoor-related products, and even some military applications as well. It does feel a bit thin, so like the internal dividers, I do wonder if the bag is suited for the long haul. However, I don’t think it would necessarily be any worse than any other bag I have owned.

     

    Finally, one of the most basic questions about this bag involves the price – is it really worth $ 250? That depends on your needs. Certainly that amount will fetch you one, or even several, perfectly fine camera bags from manufacturers like Lowepro, Ruggard, Crumpler, Tamrac, and many others. While all those bags are nice, and much less expensive, I have found the Everyday Messenger to be more enjoyable to use on a daily basis. It won’t hold as much equipment as some other bags, so if you are a professional who needs the most amount of space for all sorts of gear, you might want to look elsewhere. But if you’re a casual photographer, who likes to transport your gear on a regular basis, I can confidently recommend the Everyday Messenger Bag.

    everyday-messenger-bag-divider

    These oddly-shaped dividers are quite handy, though they do feel a bit thin and flimsy compared to some dividers in other camera bags.

    Pros:

    • Well thought out design
    • Lots of storage for a variety of camera gear
    • Sturdy, rugged, and waterproof
    • Stands upright on its own, empty or fully loaded
    • Ingenious front clasp, along with top zippers, make accessing your gear very easy

    Cons:

    • Material is slightly thin and might wear out over time
    • Price is a bit high

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    The post Review: The Everyday Messenger Bag by Peak Design by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • All dPS eBooks – $10 Today Only

    It’s day 11 in our 12 deals of Christmas and today is huge – you can get any of our eBooks not already featured in our previous days for $ 10 USD (that’s between 50-80% off).

    We’ve also got a bonus deal today from our friend Ed Verosky who is offering 6 of his eBooks for $ 25!

    There’s lots to choose from so you’re best to head to our 12 Deals of Christmas page here to make your selection.

    $ 10 dPS eBooks

    10 ebooksThe $ 10 eBooks on offer are:

    • Going Pro Kit: our guide to making money from your photography (80% off)
    • The Essential Guide to Black and White Photography
    • Transcending Travel: A Guide to Captivating Travel Photography
    • Click! Kids Photography: How to Take Gorgeous Photos of Your Kids
    • Photo Nuts and Bolts: Know Your Camera and Take Better Photos
    • Photo Nuts and Shots: Tools and Techniques for Creative Photography
    • Photo Nuts and Post: Transform your Photos with the Power of Post Processing
    • Photo Nuts and Gear: Don’t spend a dime on gear until you read this eBook
    • Photo Magic: Special Effects Photography Made Easy
    • Captivating Color: Discover how to use Color effectively in your Photography
    • The Art of Self Portraiture: Explore your Creative Spirit
    • Printable Posing Guides: Printable Posing Sets

    Buy one or create your own little bundle of learning for 2016 at our 12 Deals of Christmas page.

    2 Great Bundles – $ 25 Each (Save 77%)

    Today we’ve got a couple of great bundles for you too.

    Ed Verosky eBook Bundle!

    NewImageEd Verosky has put together a very special bundle deal for you – it includes his 6 best selling eBooks for just $ 25:

    • 15 Photo Projects That Will Boost Your Creativity – If you’re in a creative rut or just need some inspiration you’ll love this eBook!
    • Introduction to Close-up & Macro Photography – This guide gives you everything you need to get started with close-up & macro photography!
    • Boudoir Photography – the quick-start guide for professional photographers.
    • Advice for the Aspiring Portrait Photographer – This concise guide will help you build your portfolio, find great models and portrait subjects, and really delivers on helping you become a true portrait ‘artist.’
    • Successful Photo Shoots – Go behind-the-scenes with Ed Verosky as he talks you through every challenge, every thought, through hundreds of images, down to the final edits.
    • DSLR: The Basics – fundamental concepts of photography & using a DSLR to it’s full potential.

    ‘Photo Nuts’ eBook Pack

    NewImageThe complete collection of Photo Nuts eBooks from Neil Creek for just $ 25 USD:

    • Photo Nuts and Bolts – Know your camera and take better photos
    • Photo Nuts and Shots – Tools and Techniques for Creative Photography
    • Photo Nuts and Post – Transform Your Photos with the Power of Post Processing
    • Photo Nuts and Gear – Don’t spend a dime on Gear Until You Read this eBook

    These bundles and all our other $ 10 USD eBooks are available for you to purchase for one day only at our 12 Deals of Christmas page here

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    The post All dPS eBooks – $ 10 Today Only by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 75% OFF: Get Out of Auto Mode & Gain Creative Control Of Your Camera

    It’s day 10 of our 12 deals of Christmas and todays deal is one we’ve been getting requests for – it’s deals on our brand new Photography Courses by Neil Creek.

    These two courses were both released in 2015 and both have helped many of our readers to get out of Auto mode and gain creative control over their cameras.

    Today you can pick up either course for $ 20 (they are each normally $ 59) or you can bundle them together for just $ 30.

    Course 1: Photo Nuts and Bolts

    NewImage.png
    This course is all about getting out of Auto mode and getting to know your camera and how to get control over it to take fantastic images.

    In 10 practical video lessons, you’ll discover the key photography concepts that will put you in creative control of your camera and increase your technical confidence, to take more amazing photos than you ever thought possible!

    • Shutter speed
    • Aperture
    • F-stops
    • ISO
    • Metering
    • Depth of field
    • Lenses
    • Focus
    • Magnification

    Photo Nuts and Bolts is perfect for new camera owners or those who are yet to venture out of Auto Mode.

    Take the course today for just $ 20

    Course 2: Photo Nuts and Shots

    NewImage.png
    This second course is for those who understand the basics (it builds perfectly upon the first course above) and helps you to discover tools, techniques and thought processes for creative photography.

    In 10 video lessons you’ll:

    • Learn to harness light to convey emotion
    • Understand the impact of great composition and how to achieve it
    • Tips for the sharpest possible photos
    • How to adapt your camera’s exposure for the shot you want
    • Master the concepts of shot perception, planning and execution – in any setting
    • When to break the rules for creative effect

    Today only you can grab it for just $ 20 (66% off).

    Take Both Courses for $ 30 (75% Off)

    These courses are designed to be taken stand alone but are beautiful companion courses when you bundle them.

    You can start though courses immediately and go through them all at once or pace it over time. You’ve got lifetime access so it’s completely up to you!

    If you’re sick of looking at the dials and settings on your camera and knowing it can do so much more than what you do with it they’re the perfect gift to yourself to help you take beautiful images in 2016 and beyond.

    This is one deal you don’t want to miss.

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    The post 75% OFF: Get Out of Auto Mode & Gain Creative Control Of Your Camera by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Create a Vintage Look for Your Image Using Photoshop

    Creating a vintage look for an image is now easy, without having to shoot with an old film camera. Although I would recommend any photo enthusiastic to try! I have a an Agfa camera ISOLA that I use every now and then. I love the contrasty, grainy black and white pictures it allows me to shoot. I usually ask advice regarding the film I can use depending on the sought-after result (contrast- grain – ISO).

    With a few easy steps in Photoshop you can make a textured, desaturated vintage look for any of your pictures. I’m going to show you how I did it with a self-portrait, but you can really do it with any picture as this technique really creates a great feeling to any image, whether it is a portrait or a landscape.

    Vintage images are usually not so sharp, so I chose an image with some motion blur. You can add some directly in camera playing with slow shutter speeds and creating some motion. To edit this image, we are going to change the color using a gradient map adjustment, add some textures, and finally add a vignette to get a vintage look image.

    Setting the mood for creation before Setting the mood for creation after

    Step one: Modifying the color tones using gradient map

    There are many ways to desaturate an image. I love the gradient map adjustment because it allows me to desaturate the image, to add some color tones, and also to adjust its contrast. Hopefully, you will love this tool if you haven’t tried it yet.

    Vintage images are usually desaturated – it could also be sepia. To get the desaturation you can go to Layer > New adjustment layer > Gradient Map (as shown below).

    01

    Or you can go to your layer tab and select new Gradient Map layer (as below).

    02

    In the properties tab (screenshot below) you can see what gradient has been applied. By default it will be a foreground to background color, so usually black and white (the color squares on the bottom of your tools bar). You can also set the gradient color by changing your background and foreground color.

    03

    Photoshop then offers you 2 different options:

    • The Reverse option will change the gradient and give you a negative of your image, as in this case I add white into the black and black into the white (below).04
    • The Dither option will mix in noise to help blend the gradient more smoothly. So you can check any of those options depending on the effect you want to achieve.

    Edit your gradient by clicking on it (click on the gradient color bar); the gradient editor will then open.

    05

    The gradient editor window shows you on the left the color applied to your blacks, and on the right the color applied to your whites. To modify the gradient you have two options:

    First option, you choose one of the available presets. You click on a preset to apply it to your image. Second option is to create a custom gradient. Simply double click on one of the color stops, and choose a new color among the color pop-up menu.

    You can also create a new color stop/intermediate by clicking below the gradient bar to define another one wherever you want (remember on the left are your shadows/black tone – in the middle mid-tones, and on the right your highlights/white tones). Once the new color stop is set you can also move it so it affects more of your dark or light tones.

    In case you want to save the created gradient as a preset, name it, then click New after you have finished. It will then appear in your presets.

    This is a powerful tool to adjust any color tone in your images. In this case I will first use the black and white gradient. When using this option the image is then turned into a black and white picture.

    06

    As it is not what we intended to do, lower the opacity of the adjustment layer.

    07

    I set it to 68% in this case, but you can choose whatever number gives a nice look to your image – play with the opacity to decide which one best suits the image you are editing.

    You can add also a touch of color. Keep it very soft to achieve a vintage look. To bring back some color, you can add a second Gradient Adjustment layer. After you add another layer, click on your gradient and choose a yellowish/brownish option to get a sepia tone, one in the presets or make a custom one.

    08

    Once again you can lower the opacity of the adjustment layer to have a softer effect.

    09

    You can also add a different color according to the mood you want to set in your image. In this case I decided not to add further color tones so I added only the black and white gradient.

    Step two: Adding texture to give the image a vintage feel

    Now that you have achieved the color you want, it is time to add some texture to your image.

    Personally I always shoot my own textures, but you can also find great textures on the internet on stock image sites. Or shoot your own pictures: walls, old paintings, grounds, wood, leaves, etc., any textured surface you can find. It is very easy, and can help you find some inspiration.

    10

    You drag and drop using your move tool or copy and paste a textured photo on top of your main picture. Then mix it by using the layer Blending Mode, try Overlay or Soft Light. I really recommend you to go through all the blending options to see how they blend the texture with your image (each image is different, and each mode can create a different look).

    11

    I always add textures to my personal works to give a painterly effect to my images. To have a lighter effect you can lower the opacity of your layer. To have a stronger effect you can repeat this step and add several textured layers.

    You can modify the effect by adjusting your texture image. Select the texture in your layer’s tab and go to: Image > Adjustment > Curves/Levels.

    12

    Playing with Curves or Levels will help you to bring back, or soften, some details in the texture. You also can add a Gaussian Blur filter if there are details that are too sharp in your texture image.

    13

    Select the area where you want to show or not show the texture. You can add a layer mask on the texture layer and by painting with black or white on the layer mask, you add (show) or remove (hide) areas where the texture appears.

    Select your texture layer and click on add a layer mask. Lower the opacity of your brush tool, and keep its hardness to 0% to get very smooth edges. Now you can start painting in black over the areas where you want less or no texture.

    14

    Everything is in the details, and Photoshop allows you a full control over your images. Usually to still have a “clean” image, and not to lose some details, you can mask areas such as skin, eyes, lips, etc., when editing a portrait.

    So take your time to play with your textures. Try different types of shapes and contrasts. You can desaturate your textured image, or keep it in color. I find it easier when the texture is desaturated so you can fully control the color tones of your image separately, but it is up to you, and to the image you have in mind. As with any creative exercise, it is a matter of taste and style.

    Step three: Finishing your image by adding a vignette

    Vignetting can be an unintended, and undesired effect, caused by camera settings or lens limitations. However, you can also introduce it for creative effect, such as to draw attention to the center of the frame. You can choose a lens which is known to produce a vignette, or a filter to obtain the same effect.

    Obviously, as we are going to do now, you can also add a vignette by post-processing your image in Photoshop. You have many options in Photoshop to vignette your images. In this case we are doing something very uneven so the vignette also helps to create a strange atmosphere.

    Grab your lasso tool and draw very random lines around the edges of your image. It looks weird, but it is quite effective.

    15

    Go to Layer > New adjustment layer > curves. Darken your mid-tones by pulling down your curves to about one third (or to any darker/lighter spot according to your taste).

    16

    Whenever you select an area of your image, and have this selection active when you create a new adjustment layer, Photoshop automatically creates a layer mask on the new layer from your active selection.

    Remember – on your layer mask white is where the effect will be applied, and black where the effect will not be applied. Here you want to apply the effect on the edges of the image, not in the center- if need be invert your layer mask by selecting the layer mask and pressing: CMD/CTRL+I.

    Then double click on your Curves layer mask and feather your selection (around 87 pixels here).

    17

    You can once again play with the opacity of your layer to lighten the vignette.

    I hope you enjoyed this article. Feel free to share in the comments your usual steps to crete a vintage look to your images. Share your images as well using this technique if you give it a go.

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  • Improve Your Photography by Having Go-To Places to Shoot

    There is a spot about 25 minutes west of the city. It is a spot right along the highway with a big sign that says, “Scenic Viewpoint”. Naturally it draws a lot of photographers. A quick look on Google will show a lot of sunsets shots, most with the guard rail along the bottom.

    tree-on-cliff-2

    Having 45 minutes before sunset, with a 20 minute drive, plus 10 minute walk, leaves no time to find and compose a shot. Being able to walk into the spot, set up and shoot makes some shots possible.

    I know, I am one of them, making the scramble to get set up. Of course, it’s natural not to know the cool little spots when you are just passing through the area. However, after living in a place for some time, you start to learn of some go-to spots. You know, those places you can confidently walk into as the light is building, set up, and be there when the shot happens? If you don’t have a list of go-to spots you may want to consider making one, it can help you improve your photography.

    Over the past couple of years that I’ve been shooting, I have developed a lengthy list of very specific spots (down to where the tripod stands) that all have their ideal season, weather, and time of day combination.

    Peterson

    After an hour of walking this area, I found the spot that aligns the features of this shot. This way if it looks like a certain shot might have good light, I can save myself a ton of hassle and just get to where I need to be quickly.

    This is particularly important when shooting at night, the Milky Way, northern lights, etc. Night photography requires a lot of planning. To make an interesting shot, having good foreground and mid-ground objects is key, and just cannot be done blindly in the dark. Thus a lot of mediocre shots are required while scouting a new area. Learning the angles to line up items in your shot with features in the sky.

    River aurora

    This photo was taken on the third trip in to this spot. I knew everything would work, so when the auroras started up I was ready.

    The whole process takes some time, but as you revisit locations you will become so confident about it being right, that you can walk up to that certain rock and set up. There’s no second guessing, and wasting time repositioning for a better composition.

    Building your list of go-to spots

    Most places I shoot, I return to many times. The first trip in is often just to gather info, and shoot some images to use for planning purposes. Here are a few tools that I use:

    1. Facebook:

    Yes Facebook can be useful, I am part of several Facebook photography groups and specifically one for my local area. Going out to photograph with other people, is a great way to learn an area. Just be careful not to poach another photographers exact go-to spot. I also find groups for other places that I plan to visit.

    Ryanfisher2

    Being invited along to an area with another photographers is a privilege. Be sure not to steal their go-to spot.

    2. Google Maps and Images:

    I use Google all the time to find new areas, specifically Maps, for looking into an area to see the lay of the land. The terrain is critical as to how the natural light will play into the shot. If a waterfall only shoots facing north, but you want the sunset behind it, then that will quickly rule out this spot for that shoot. However, it might make a fantastic spot to photograph the auroras.

    3. The Photographer’s Ephemeris:

    I use the Photographer’s Ephemeris to place celestial events. I won’t go into the ins and outs of the Ephemeris, but it will allow planning of moonrise, sunset, sunrise, etc., type of shots. It shows the azimuth, and time when certain events occur for any day of the year. Very handy if you plan to photograph the moonrise in a notch along a ridge, or something.

    Ephemeris

    If you are interested in getting a shot of the sun rising at the end of the lake you will have to wait.

    4. Boots on the ground:

    Research can only take you so far before you have to get your feet dirty. Making day hikes into a new area is by far the best way to explore a specific spot. Just make sure to get off the beaten path, if possible, to see what others might miss. This is also the time to get some shots which I call taking notes. The images can even be iPhone shots, because their purpose is to gather info. I always look at my images and quickly see better positions to shoot from, or a feature that went unnoticed.

    Timing is everything when lining up celestial objects. Knowing your go to spot can help you get the most out of your shots. I wasn't by chance that the Milky Way lines up with that point of rock.

    Timing is everything when lining up celestial objects. Knowing your go to spot can help you get the most out of your shots. I wasn’t by chance that the Milky Way lines up with that point of rock.

    You get the idea. I guess there is a fifth note, and that is to just keep going into places and taking shots. I always see better positions to shoot from while going through my images. Having a lot of go-to spots is the result of simply going to a lot of places. Remembering how each spot shoots, and knowing when the conditions will work best.

    Although I am a landscape and nature photographer, who focuses on night sky photography, I also know the value of go-to spots for portrait and wedding photographers as well. Knowing when and where to shoot can make or break your shots. Being able to reduce harsh shadows and wrong angles to make more of your shots usable.

    Do you have any go-to spots near where you live? Share your images and comments with us below.

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    The post Improve Your Photography by Having Go-To Places to Shoot by Dave Markel appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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