Category: Photography

  • 25 Stunning Images that Show Next to Nothing – Minimalism

    Just like the TV show Seinfeld that was a show about nothing, putting next to nothing in your images can produce some good results.

    min·i·mal·ism – a style or technique (as in music, literature, or design) that is characterized by extreme spareness and simplicity

    Sometimes in an image less is more, and many beginners try to put too much into their images which makes them busy and unfocused. Look at these images that use minimalism well:

    Patrick Marioné - Thanks For > 2M

    By Patrick Marioné – thanks for > 2M

    Darwin Bell

    By darwin Bell

    Iñaki Bolumburu

    By Iñaki Bolumburu

    Kai C. Schwarzer

    By Kai C. Schwarzer

    Susanne Nilsson

    By Susanne Nilsson

    Maf04

    By maf04

    Craig Sunter

    By Craig Sunter

    LadyDragonflyCC - >;

    By LadyDragonflyCC – >;<

    Kai C. Schwarzer

    By Kai C. Schwarzer

    Daniel Sjöström

    By Daniel Sjöström

    Jeff Wallace

    By Jeff Wallace

    Takashi .M

    By Takashi .M

    Kai C. Schwarzer

    By Kai C. Schwarzer

    Stewart Ayrey

    By Stewart Ayrey

    Daniel Sallai

    By Daniel Sallai

    Michael Taggart Photography

    By Michael Taggart Photography

    Jonathan Kos-Read

    By Jonathan Kos-Read

    Marilylle Soveran

    By Marilylle Soveran

    Soumyadeep Paul

    By Soumyadeep Paul

    Danipuntocom

    By Danipuntocom

    Georgie Pauwels

    By Georgie Pauwels

    Howard Ignatius

    By Howard Ignatius

    Md. Al Amin

    By Md. Al Amin

    Steve Corey

    By Steve Corey

    Kristina Alexanderson

    By Kristina Alexanderson

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    The post 25 Stunning Images that Show Next to Nothing – Minimalism by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Minimalism

    It is often said in photography that less is more, but what does that mean? Going minimalist, putting less “stuff” in your images can often help to make them more powerful. The subject becomes more obvious to the viewer, the image is less cluttered and clean, and it has more visual appeal.

    Serzhile

    By serzhile

    Khrawlings

    By khrawlings

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Minimalism

    This week it’s your challenge to photograph less!

    Find a subject that you can photograph simply. Make it as clean as possible so focus is on the subject and nothing else. If you have more than one thing in your photo it’s too many – get closer, or find another subject and practice shooting with minimalism.

    Andrea Donato Alemanno

    By Andrea Donato Alemanno

    Kevin Dobo-Hoffman

    By Kevin Dobo-Hoffman

    Neil Tackaberry

    By Neil Tackaberry

    Here are some dPS articles to give you ideas:

    • Minimalism: Using Negative Space In Your Photographs
    • Minimalist Photography ~ 4 Tips To Keep It Simple With A Maximum Impact
    • Stop the Rush and Return to Simplicity
    • Minimalism in Photography
    • Another Great Example of Using Negative Space

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

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    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Minimalism by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Find your Personal Photographic Style

    Finding your personal photographic style is something of a holy grail to photographers, yet seldom an overnight occurrence. Nor would you want it to be, as developing a style that is uniquely yours is one of the most exciting and rewarding aspects of photography. For a lot of photographers, it is an ongoing, ever-evolving process, influenced by many factors. Some photographers find a single style that works for them, which they stick to and hone, while others might develop two or more dominant styles.

    image showing personal photographic style

    The beach and water feature in many of my images

    What defines a photographic style?

    Personal style can be defined by any number of things. It can be your choice of subject matter, the way you light or style your subjects, your shooting angle, cropping, a particular colour or tonal range you’re drawn to, your post-processing style, or any combination of these and more.

    Consider those photographers, whose work is instantly recognizable. Some of the greats such as Annie Leibovitz, Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson – their styles are so distinctive that the viewer is left in no doubt as to whose work they are viewing. Adams is probably best known for his iconic black-and-white images of the American West, and his renowned technical perfectionism. Cartier-Bresson is considered by many to be the father of modern photojournalism. His style was humane and spontaneous, and he broke many rules in order to capture the decisive moment. Leibovitz developed her trademark style, involving the use of bold primary colours and unexpected poses, while working at Rolling Stone magazine. Her highly styled fashion and celebrity portraits bear her signature in every detail.

    There are many photographers with unique styles, who may not yet have reached such heights of fame. The photographs below are the work of  Australian-based photographer Juanita Haslett (Little Forest Photography). Juanita’s style is distinguishable by her unposed approach to her subjects, the subjects themselves (usually young children), the wild, natural settings, and her distinctive editing style.

    image showing personal photographic style

    Photo credit: Juanita Haslett, Little Forest Photography

    image showing personal photographic style

    Photo credit: Juanita Haslett, Little Forest Photography

    image showing personal photographic style

    Photo credit: Juanita Haslett, Little Forest Photography.

    Forget what everyone else is doing

    When I was finding my feet as a portrait photographer, I was thrown off course time and time again by what other people in my industry were doing. Everywhere I looked were posed newborns – Photoshopped composites of babies in baskets, bowls and nests, babies in froggy pose, babies hanging in dreamcatchers, and swaddled in an assortment of wraps, headbands and hats with ears. Alongside the posed newborn images were photos of small children in forests and fields, bathed in an otherworldly golden light and sun flare – always the sun flare!

    I figured that since everyone seemed to be photographing this way, it was what clients wanted. As I tried to recreate what they were doing (and had been doing long before I came along) their images populated my news feed every time I went online, serving as visual reminders of what I was failing at. In trying to do what everyone else was doing, I found myself lost in a sea of sameness.

    image showing personal photographic style

    My daughter chose to learn the bassoon rather than the piano. Her choice to do something different has helped her stand out from the pack, and has opened many doors for her.

    The thing about stand-out photographers is that they stand out precisely because they are not doing what everyone else is doing. Your style is what sets you apart from everyone else. Sometimes, this means being brave and following a less popular path. So, be inspired by others, but don’t compare yourself. Admire their work, but don’t try to emulate it, because you will only end up looking like a poor imitation of something great.

    The examples below are the work of Steve Scalone, a Melbourne-based photographer whose clean, graphic composition and unusual shooting angles are his trademark. Steve specializes in a very different genre to mine, but I follow his work, and admire it because it reminds me of the importance of being brave and different.

    Image showing finding your personal photographic style

    Photo credit: Steve Scalone

    Image showing finding your personal photographic style

    Photo credit: Steve Scalone

    Image showing finding your personal photographic style

    Photo credit: Steve Scalone

    Figure out what inspires you

    It’s helpful to understand how your passion was born. Keeping this at the forefront of your mind will help keep those doubts in check when they come creeping in, as they inevitably will. While you shouldn’t try to copy anyone else’s style, there is nothing wrong with being inspired by others. For many of us, another photographer’s work is what ignites that first spark in us, urging us to explore this medium further.

    Who or what made you first fall in love with photography? Was there a family member whose photos struck a chord?  A photo you saw in the newspaper, or an exhibition you attended? Sometimes it’s a combination of many things, and it can be hard to pinpoint the one thing that’s had the greatest impact.

    For a long time, I thought my first photographic love was Cartier-Bresson, evidenced by my love affair with black-and-white and candid photography. However, I was only introduced to Cartier-Bresson’s work when I already owned an SLR, by which stage the stable door had long been left open, and the horse had well and truly bolted.

    image showing personal photographic style

    My admiration for Cartier-Bresson is evident in my love of black-and-white street photography.

    image showing personal photographic style

    My first real engagement with photography was through my father. He documented our childhood growing up in South Africa in the 1970s, with a Minolta SLR and slide film. He had no formal training, just an eye for light and composition. Dad regularly treated us to slide shows, and none of us complained because his photos were so beautiful. There wasn’t a dull or dreary image among them, since Dad’s most active shooting season was during our summer holidays, in the mountains and on the coast.

    image showing personal photographic style

    My father documented our childhood in South Africa on slide film. Photo credit: Erik Holmgren

    After we immigrated to Australia, the slides became even more important to us. Projected life-size on the wall, they allowed us to re-live all those happy memories, and kept our birth country alive for us when we were desperately homesick.

    It was only recently that I realized just how much of an impact my father’s photography has had on my style. First, I favour natural over heavily edited. With so many editing tools at our disposal, there is the temptation to fiddle and alter until we end up with an image that is nothing like what we set out to capture. Dad’s photos have a beautiful rawness about them; they tell it as it really was.

    Second, I am drawn to water and other natural environments, particularly when photographing children.

    Third, I love big, beautiful photographic wall art, and I’m sure it harks back to those slideshows! I love how you can see all the detail of expressions and connections within a photograph when it is projected large on the wall.

    image showing personal photographic style

    My father’s photography has had a huge influence on my style. Photo credit: Erik Holmgren

    Develop your style

    Spend an afternoon looking back over the photographs you’ve taken. It’s a rewarding rainy day activity! Create a collection of your favourites, but don’t overthink it. Be spontaneous, and you’ll gravitate to those images that make your heart skip a beat.

    Now take a good look at them. Do you notice a pattern? It may be subtle, and it may take a while to see it, but here are some things to consider:

    What do you like to photograph? Let’s say it’s children. Are they young children or teens? What are they doing when you photograph them? Do you like to catch them in action, or quiet reflection? Candid or styled? Are they indoors or out? What do their surroundings look like?

    image showing personal photographic style

    Warm colours of early morning or late afternoon light contribute to style.

    What about focal length? Do you photograph close up, or do you like to include some background to help tell the story? Do you favour the compression of a zoom lens or do you prefer a wider angle lens? Do you like to keep some background detail, or do you shoot with a wide aperture to keep it soft? Do you shoot from above, below, behind, in profile? Do you compose your images with lots of foreground, lots of sky, or do you frame your subjects with things like trees?

    Now think about the lighting. What time of day have you taken your favourite photos? Are they brightly lit or full of shadows? High key, deliberately underexposed, or somewhere in between?

    Is there a colour or tonal range that dominates your photos? There will be evidence of this in your choice of subjects, locations and your editing style. You might find the majority of your favourites are black and white, or maybe you’re drawn to warm reds and golds, or even neutrals. Do you prefer to edit for crisp colours and sharp images, or do you favour the softer outlines and colours that are reminiscent of film?

    image showing personal photographic style

    Black and white is one of my two dominant styles

    All of these elements contribute to your photographic style. Once you identify them, you can start honing in on your style by emphasising the things that move you, and then watch your style grow.

    So, how has your style developed? Have you noticed a big difference in the way you shoot or edit now, compared to where you were say, three years ago or even six months ago? Share your before and after photos in the comments section below, and any tips you might have for developing a personal photographic style.


    Editor’s Note: This is one of a series of articles this week that are Open for Discussion. We want to get the conversation going, hear your voice and opinions, and talk about some possibly controversial topics in photography.

    Let’s get it started here – do you agree or disagree with the points in the article above? Do you have any others to add? Give us your thoughts below, and watch for more discussion topics each day this week.

    See all the recent discussion topics here:

    • 7 Commonly Accepted Photography Beliefs Debunked
    • Is HDR dead? Some dPS Writer’s Thoughts on this Controversial Topic

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    The post How to Find your Personal Photographic Style by Karen Quist appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Why You May be Failing to Reach Your Potential as a Photographer

    There are a number of reasons why someone might not succeed at reaching their full potential, more than I can cover in this article, so please feel free to add to this list by telling us what obstacles get in your way. If you have solutions to someone else’s problem, feel free to offer up some advice, and help out a fellow photographer.

    reach-photography-potential

    What does it mean to reach one’s potential?

    Reaching your potential can be a bit arbitrary as everyone has different ideas of what success means. In order to simplify this article a little, let’s make a couple of assumptions to define the photographer we are talking about.

    Assumption #1 – The photographer in question is someone who wants to improve their work through the long haul. This photographer may or may not want to become a professional, but they do want to look back on their portfolio and be proud of what they have accomplished.

    Assumption #2 – For the sake of this article things out of the control of our make believe photographer – i.e. financial situation, health, and social/family aspects of life – are not the cause of their failure to reach their potential.

    What then, are the obstacles that may be holding you back?

    Lack of confidence

    Think about learning a new skill. At the beginning you’ll most likely have a low level of confidence, but this is off-set by a high level of excitement to try something new. As time goes on though, that newness wears off and you’re left feeling like you’ve gotten yourself in over your head – does that sound familiar?

    reach-photography-potential-2

    With photography there is so much information available on the web, so many people to compare yourself to, so many clubs to join, and so many things to buy, that it can become overwhelming for you to figure out the right path to take forward.

    This frustration can lead to confusion, or even doubt over the decisions you’ve made, making this a common question, “Did I buy the right lens/tripod/software?”.

    The simplest advice that can be given in this situation is to try to block out the distractions around you. Try to focus on your own improvement, and benchmark your current photography against what you did last month, or last year. This will help showcase your personal triumphs, allowing you to stay confident in your progress.

    Lack of Motivation

    If there’s one thing that will stop you from reaching your potential, it’s lack of motivation. Photography requires a lot of time and energy. You have to plan shoots, find subjects, work with models or nature, often travel to a location – a lot goes into photography.

    reach-photography-potential-4

    To compound this, motivation will often peak when something is new, but as you visit the same location a few times, use the new lens repeatedly, or master the new technique you read about, the level of motivation you get from these things starts to wane.

    In order to avoid stalling out due to lack of motivation, one thing you can do is to keep trying new things. One of the best ways to do this is to participate in themed challenges, like those here on dPS weekly. Another option would be to join a local photography club, or even an online community, to allow you to meet other photographers and share ideas.

    Not investing in the right gear

    You probably know that gear alone can’t make you a better photographer, but the wrong gear can certainly hold you back.

    reach-photography-potential-3

    Trying to cut corners on cheap tripods, poor quality bags, or inferior lens filters, will do more harm than good. One could argue that poor quality gear will actually hurt your photography, more than high quality gear will improve it. So invest wisely, but be careful not to fall into the next hurdle.

    Relying on gear to carry you

    As mentioned above, some investment is necessary in order to set yourself up for success. However, too much reliance on the gear you buy will only hold you back. Thinking that upgrading to full frame will improve your photography is not the right reason to buy a new $ 2,000 dollar camera.

    When it comes to investing in new gear there are two questions you should ask yourself:

    1. What is the driving force behind your desire to upgrade?
    2. How will the desired upgrade fill a need in a way that your current gear cannot?

    Hopefully by answering these questions you’ll be able to find out whether or not the gear that you’re inquiring about is a want or a need, and how big of an impact it will have on the photographs you produce.

    What else stops you from achieving your potential?

    Let us know in the comments what hurdles you face as a photographer. What stops you from achieving your potential, and maybe we as a community can help you find ways to tackle that challenge.


    Editor’s Note: This is one of a series of articles this week that are Open for Discussion. We want to get the conversation going, hear your voice and opinions, and talk about some possibly controversial topics in photography.

    Let’s get it started here – do you agree or disagree with the points in the article above? Do you have any others to add? Give us your thoughts below, and watch for more discussion topics each day this week.

    See all the recent discussion topics here:

    • 7 Commonly Accepted Photography Beliefs Debunked
    • Is HDR dead? Some dPS Writer’s Thoughts on this Controversial Topic
    • How to Find your Personal Photographic Style

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    The post Why You May be Failing to Reach Your Potential as a Photographer by John Davenport appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 7 Commonly Accepted Photography Beliefs Debunked

    Midtown, NYC

    Over the last handful of years, working with photographers of all types, I have come to learn that there are many commonly accepted thoughts about photography that just aren’t true.

    Here is my attempt to dispel some of the most common misunderstandings that many photographers have, and to explain why they are a bit misguided.

    1. You need to use as low an ISO as possible

    Noodletown, Chinatown

    Fuji X100 at ISO 3200

    Back in the early and mid-2000s, mainstream digital cameras were in their infancy, and one of the worst aspects about them was their ability to work well at high ISOs. The digital noise, above ISO 400, in so many of those cameras was terrible. This was the heyday of noise reduction software such as Noise Ninja, and because of all of this, it was rightfully taught that using the lowest ISO possible was always better.

    In the last seven years, I would argue that the greatest improvement that digital cameras have made has been in their ISO capability. You can now shoot with ISOs of 1600, 3200, 6400, and even beyond, with great quality. Even significant noise in many digital cameras has an exquisite quality to it.

    Unfortunately, the low-ISO stigma has continued. On a tripod, for landscape photography, or studio photography, a low ISO is usually better. The rest of the time, raise it up. This will allow you to use more ideal shutter and aperture settings, and you will notice that the technical qualities of your images will actually turn out better.

    You think all of those gorgeous wedding photographs were done at ISO 200? So many of them were taken at 3200. I will walk around at night shooting handheld with ISOs of 3200 and 6400 on my small Fuji X100S, and the quality of the photographs is incredible.

    2. You need a tripod

    Cobblestone, SoHo, NYC.

    For night and dusk landscape photography, a tripod is very important. But you usually don’t need that tripod during the day, and you can even shoot at dusk or night without one, depending on the specific situation. This tip goes hand in hand with point number one, because the improved high ISO capability in cameras has allowed us the ability to shoot handheld, when we otherwise would have wanted to use a tripod.

    How you plan to display the work should be a big factor in your tripod use. Are these travel photographs that you will put in a book or not print larger than 12×18? Consider putting away the tripod and saving your back from the added weight. You will have more energy, and will take even more good photographs. Is it a 40×60 print of a foreground, middleground, background landscape taken at dusk? A tripod will still be necessary for that.

    3. A shallow depth of field makes a photo better

    Canal Street, NYC.

    One of the most exciting times for any photographer is when they jump from that f/3.5-5.6 lens to their first f/2.8 (or below) lens. The ability to create portraits and images with beautiful bokeh for the first time is a great feeling.

    However, not every image needs to have bokeh. There is a time and a place for f/2.8 and a time for f/16. Keeping your camera on f/2.8 all of the time is typically not a great practice. There are images where a large depth of field is vital. It’s one thing to have a strong subject, sharp and separated from the background. Those images can be beautiful, but there are times when the background and surrounding elements can be just as important as the main subject, and they will need to be sharp.

    Don’t get tunnel vision from shooting at f/2.8 all of the time. After you locate your main subject, see if the surroundings can add to the photo. If they don’t, then you’re free to bokeh them away.

    4. Aperture Priority is always the best mode

    Club, NYC.

    A subtle flash with a 1/2 second shutter to achieve motion blur and stronger ambient light.

    When I teach, I’d estimate that 75 percent of photographers pop their camera on Aperture Priority and that is it. This percentage does not include the ones that shoot in Auto.

    Aperture Priority has its time and place, but there are many situations where Shutter or Manual can be ideal. I prefer Shutter Priority for any times that subjects are in motion, such as sports, kids running around, images where you want motion blur or motion in water, or street photography. I will even use shutter priority sometimes in event photography with up to a half second shutter, and mixed with flash, so I can add both a sharp aspect and an element of motion.

    Manual mode is ideal for studio photography, on a tripod, or in any situation where the lighting is completely consistent. This allows you to dial in the exact exposure, and not leave anything up to chance or the camera’s light meter.

    In addition, by shooting in Aperture Priority all of the time, I have noticed that photographers do not develop the ability to pay attention to the shutter speed as much as they should. Because of this, while their exposure will always look good, many images will be taken with too slow of a shutter speed leading to slightly blurry photographs. This will not be noticeable on the back of the camera however, and the image will appear sharp until loaded onto the computer.

    5. My photograph is bad because no one likes it on Instagram

    The edge, SoHo, NYC.

    I love Instagram, but it has had the unfortunate effect of homogenizing photography. As we share photographs and receive likes, we learn to see our work in terms of what other people respond to best. This is a trap. If we create photographs for the purpose of appealing to the masses, then every photographer will end up shooting in the same way. This is why trends like overly designed images or over-saturated colors, which grab attention very well on screens, become the norm.

    Being a good photographer is about being a little different. You want to always pay attention to how people relate to you work, and what they like and dislike, but you also want to take that with a grain of salt. Always try to remember how much you liked the photograph before you showed it to anyone else, and keep that feeling. Unique and interesting photographs are ultimately what you want to create, and you don’t want to let Instagram discourage you from taking them.

    6. Photographs always tell the truth

    I love candid photography because it shows a real moment. However, no matter how true they look, photographs can easily distort reality. The better they distort reality, the more people will believe it to be true.

    A photographer’s biases can shine through in their photographs. A person can be captured with an expression that is completely the opposite of the norm for them, and you would have no idea. In addition, photographers are constantly playing a game of what to include and what to exclude. You do not know what is happening around the camera, and it is often significantly different from what you might imagine.

    Photographs can lie, they can hide the truth, or they can be ambiguous. This is very important to remember. It will both help you understand the nature of what you are photographing, but it will also allow you to play with this idea, to create more interesting work.

    7. A photograph has to be technically perfect to be good

    Youth, SoHo, NYC.

    One of the noticeable aspects of many old photographs is the lack of technical quality, when compared to today’s standards. This was usually due to the early camera technology that was used. We just have a lot more available to us these days.

    What stands out in many of these prints however, is that despite their technical deficiencies, the images still look beautiful. They are still interesting. They are still fantastic. Think Cartier-Bresson, Doissneau, Stieglitz.

    Light, sharpness, composition, and image quality are very important to master, but just know that they do not always have to be perfect to create a great photograph. Some images have glaring deficiencies and yet they’re wonderful. Figure out how to take an interesting image and don’t discard every photo that isn’t sharp enough. Sometimes an underexposed or overexposed photograph will look great. Often an unorthodox composition will be just what was needed. Pixel peeping is important to train your eye, but you can sometimes do too much of it.


    Editor’s Note: This is the first in a series of articles this week that are Open for Discussion. We want to get the conversation going, hear your voice and opinions, and talk about some possibly controversial topics in photography.

    Let’s get it started here – do you agree or disagree with the points in the article above? Do you have any others to add? Give us your thoughts below, and watch for more discussion topics each day this week.

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    The post 7 Commonly Accepted Photography Beliefs Debunked by James Maher appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Is HDR dead? Some dPS Writer’s Thoughts on this Controversial Topic

    HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography has been around for quite a few years now. It is a technique that allows you as a photographer to use bracketed images, to capture as much of the dynamic range in a given scene as possible. Dynamic range is the measurable difference between the brightest highlights, and darkest shadows, in a scene that you are photographing.

    Lions Gate Bridge Vancouver - HDR image

    Lions Gate Bridge Vancouver – HDR from three bracketed images.

    HDR became a very useful tool a few years ago as digital cameras were initially really bad at exposing the highlights in a scene correctly. Many photographers (myself included) would expose for the highlights in the scene and then pull back detail in the shadows in Photoshop or Lightroom. This technique caused other problems. When editing afterwards in Photoshop, the shadow areas that had been lightened were really noisy, and looked gritty and low quality. HDR came along and solved some of these issues.

    HDR was able to blend the highlights in the scene correctly and show details in the shadows. This was great news, and almost overnight, there were many top photographers singing the praises of this new technique. It was really a huge step forward in the digital photography world. There were a few glitches though. If you wanted to do HDR images, you needed to purchase a third party piece of software, Photoshop did not have an HDR tool at first. Secondly, you had to shoot between three and five bracketed shots to get all the detail into the final image. If you did both those things, and you did them well, you were rewarded with a unique looking image.

    The other challenge was that the HDR software often made images look overdone. While the dynamic range in the HDR image was good, there were often halos and artifacting in the image. Sometimes the saturation was erratic and the images looked just a little weird. For a time, this HDR look became quite trendy. Trey Ratcliff became one of the leading voices on HDR, and was a proponent of using HDR wherever possible and on any image. He gathered a strong following and HDR became the new thing to do to your images.

    A somewhat overdone HDR image

    A somewhat overdone HDR image

    Fast forward to today. In recent years, the new camera sensors have improved on their dynamic range ability significantly. Also, improvements in RAW editors and quality means that cameras are now able to capture a lot more information that they did even five years ago, and a good RAW editor can bring back significant detail in the shadows and highlights.

    So, the big question is this, is HDR dead or will it make a comeback? To add some insight to this, a few weeks ago, we posed this question to our own dPS writers and here are some of their responses:

    What dPS writers have to say about HDR

    All I know is, when I shoot my D750 at base ISO I can get more colors, and pull more from the shadows than I ever could on my D7100 with 5 stops of bracketed shots. So yeah…maybe the whole idea of bracketing to get HDR is going the way of the dodo bird. – Simon Ringsmuth

    Sun rays wash over Kathmandu, Nepal (HDR by Peter West Carey)

    Sun rays wash over Kathmandu, Nepal (HDR by Peter West Carey)

    I think the technique has reached a more comfortable point, in that most people can recognize the truly horrible overcooked stuff now, and shy away from it….and more and more photographers are being responsible with it, merely pulling some dynamic range in their images with positive results. Lightroom doesn’t do a great job with the HDR merge, but the one thing it does is limit the super hot, overcooked messes 3rd party software can create. Personally, if I’m bracketing, I use LR to do a very subtle tonal merge. So I think LR will take a bit more of that market, especially as they update and improve the merge tool. So it’s not dead, in my humble opinion, it’s not even reborn. It’s just morphed into something a bit more pleasing, and still relevant. But it’s also true that these sensors are allowing for some really amazing single-file stuff. – Tim Gilbreath

    The over processed, halo skies, over saturated look are popular on Instagram! But that’s about it now. HDR has been declining in popularity (at least amongst pro’s) for a while now…medium format users have always had an advantage, though! – Daniel Smith

    HDR by Leanne Cole

    HDR by Leanne Cole

    HDR might not be dead, but the newer DSLR (especially the newer full frames) wider dynamic range makes it needed less. I only do HDR when I can’t get the range I am looking to achieve in the final image. LR’s merge to HDR has made creating HDR much easier. I like the natural look to HDR, and not the overcooked look that some are using. Since switching to full frame I don’t do nearly as many HDR images as I once did. – Bruce Wunderlich

    It’s becoming less and less important, and in 5 years it won’t be needed, in that dynamic range and presentation out of camera will be the same as what the human eye sees. Beyond some artistic renderings, once you pass what the eye and brain are used to, it jolts people out of the natural experience and into something else, another form of art. I don’t like having to use HDR techniques and am happy that LR’s version works just fine for most of my uses. I just WYSIWIG straight out of the camera. As a side note, the in-camera HDR in the Canon 7D Mark II is not that usable, and I’d rather do it in post-processing. – Peter West Carey

    HDR by Peter West Carey

    HDR by Peter West Carey

    Cameras will continue to improve. We saw the megapixel war, and the ISO range war, and now maybe there will be a dynamic range war. In regards to software I think we’ve seen both simplified solutions (i.e., Lightroom’s built-in option) and more complex solutions (Trey’s Ratcliffs new software – Aurora HDR) try and tackle the job. In the long run, simplified wins in my mind, especially as cameras become more capable. HDR as a style though, may still persist. I’d argue that overall it will continue to mature as a style, and as a result the over processed, over saturated photos, will become fewer and fewer – but there will still be those that enjoy that type of work – so it could still persist. – John Davenport

    I really think the HDR war is going to be the new frontier, at least for the next few years. Even on mobile phones it’s going to be all about how much light you can capture (i.e. shooting at high ISO values, or making lenses with wider apertures) but ultimately the focus is going to be on coaxing as much data out of the image as possible. Whether through automated in-camera software processes, which we already see quite a bit, or using software like Lightroom or Aurora HDR, we’re going to see a lot of emphasis not on how many pixels the image has, but what software can do with those pixels to make the best possible image. – Simon Ringsmuth

    I rarely do HDR now, but I still love it for night photography. – Leanne Cole

    leannecole-Is HDR dead article-1

    HDR by Leanne Cole

    When we were browsing real estate listings the other day, the listings were FULL of HDR photos of things like…people’s living rooms. We’re not talking million dollar homes, or spectacular views. We’re talking Joe Plumber’s 1000 sq. ft. starter home HDR’ed to high heavens. It looked so absurd! – Meredith Clark

    I have the D750 and its dynamic range is phenomenal! However, I have never been a fan of the over processed HDR effect that seemed popular at one time…or maybe still is! – Sarah Hipwell

    HDR processing still has its place. While today’s cameras capture a higher dynamic range than older cameras, there are still situations when blending exposures results in greater detail throughout the range. To avoid the “overcooked” look, which thankfully was a fad, I tend to blend my exposures manually rather than use a plugin. – Anne McKinnell

    HDR-dead-dps717px-01

    HDR of 6 bracketed images, merged and processed in LR – image by Darlene

    HDR isn’t new, it’s decades old. Ansel Adams did it with his Zone System and dodging and burning in the darkroom were also a form of HDR (tone control for more detail). Somewhere along the way it became more about a particular style. To me, HDR simply means what the letters stand for – High Dynamic Range – which represents a scene that your camera is unable to capture the entire tonal range due to high contrast. How that is dealt with that is up to each photographer. Do you bracket and blend exposures, do you use layer masking or luminosity masks to open up detail, or do you just let it all fall where it may and go realist? I’ve gone through all the stages of an HDR photographer and now I tend to lean towards more natural, and using LR’s merge to HDR works for me. – dPS Managing Editor Darlene Hildebrandt

    What has changed?

    With all the new sensors and updated software (Lightroom, Photoshop and standalone products like Aurora HDR and Photomatix) there are plenty of options to create truly amazing HDR images. The other option is to create a well balanced, and well edited photo, from just one image. This requires a bit of know-how with your chosen image editing suite. But with a bit of practice, you can create some amazing images that have just as much detail as any HDR image. Also, your images will look more realistic, and sometimes that may be necessary (for example, you may be shooting for a client who does not like the HDR look).

    Below you will see an example where I have compiled an HDR image from 3 bracketed images. The next image is the best shot edited alone in Photoshop CC.

    This image was 3 shots processed in HDR software

    This image was 3 shots processed in 3rd party HDR software

    This image was a one stop underexposed shot, edited in Photoshop CC

    This image was a one stop underexposed shot, edited in Photoshop CC

    Depending on what your goal is with HDR, you can achieve a lot with the right editing tool. The single image above, that was edited was done from one image, was shot on a Nikon D800 and edited in Photoshop CC. The details on this image are fantastic and you can see it’s pretty close to the HDR image style-wise. The result is not as random as the HDR image, and for the most part, when I use HDR software, I would edit to get the most realistic results, not a punchy, psychedelic look.

    The next two images are of Vancouver Convention Centre at blue hour. It shows how much detail can be pulled out of a single image. The first image is the unedited version, the second image is the final shot. The details are pretty close to what you could get with HDR, but without some of the punchy tones.

    Unedited image shot in Vancouver

    Unedited image shot in Vancouver

    Vancouver-after

    Edited image, notice how much detail can be pulled out of one shot

    So, what do you think? Is HDR dying? do you still use it or do you use it less? When do you use it?

    Let us know what your comments and ideas are, we are curious to know.


    Editor’s Note: This is one of a series of articles this week that are Open for Discussion. We want to get the conversation going, hear your voice and opinions, and talk about some possibly controversial topics in photography.

    Let’s get it started here – do you agree or disagree with the points in the article above? Do you have any others to add? Give us your thoughts below, and watch for more discussion topics each day this week.

    See all the recent discussion topics here:

    • 7 Commonly Accepted Photography Beliefs Debunked

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  • Fujifilm X70 User Review: Sweet for Street

    Fujifilm x70 is the newest little beast in Fujifilm lineup of premium compact cameras. This camera is targeted towards enthusiast and professional photographers (thanks to retro styling and large APS-C sensor) who want to travel light and want image quality at the same time. Fuji x70 is a trade-off between the legendary Fujifilm x100T and more travel oriented point and Continue Reading

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  • The Not-So-Obvious Reason for Using HDR

    Get Viktor’s Rapid Editing for HDR eBook, Course & Presets Bundle at 60% off now over at Snapndeals, only until June 7th (AUS time). 

    Over the past five years or so, HDR (high dynamic range) has become a huge part of my photography.

    Even with the latest advances in camera sensor technology, the dynamic range of the human eye is much wider than any modern camera sensor, and as a result, can only partly interpret the human experience. The goal of HDR photography is to artificially increase the dynamic range of a given photograph, making it as close as possible to the human experience.

    Images The Not So Obvious Reason 01

    I do not consider HDR to be a photography style, but rather, a technology that helps us to extend our creative reach and overcome the limitations of modern photo equipment, specifically a camera’s sensor.

    When the dynamic range of the scene we capture exceeds the dynamic range of the camera’s sensor, it results in the loss of information (or details) in both the highlight and shadow areas. HDR technology allows us to separately capture these details from the darker and brighter areas of the scene, and merge that information during the editing process.

    Even though every generation of modern camera offers a larger and larger dynamic range that gets even closer to the human experience, HDR technology continues to be an extremely valuable tool to have in your toolkit.

    But, those who read my blog and follow me on social media often give me a hard time when I post an HDR processed image with a dynamic range that is not extreme. As a result, I get blamed for using HDR for no reason and am accused of intentionally complicating the editing process.

    Images The Not So Obvious Reason 02

    In this article, I will demonstrate exactly why and how I use HDR when the lighting of a scene is not too extreme.
    I took the featured photo in the Eastern Sierra during my driving trip to the Southwest.

    Images The Not So Obvious Reason 03

    Covered by the clouds, the sun diffused the light and made it less dynamic. I could see right away that I did not need HDR processing to capture and preserve the entire light range. However, I took three bracketed shots anyway just to make sure I collected as much information from the scene as possible.

    When I started editing the photo in Lightroom, I only used a single RAW image (middle bracket). The challenge was to overcome the mild haze in the air, so I had to apply pretty aggressive edits in Lightroom (contrast, clarity and vibrance) to bring back the contrast and colors of the scene.

    Once I was happy with the result, I evaluated the image by zooming in to 100% (1:1 in Lightroom), in order to see what noise reduction setting to use. When I did this, I realized that the image started to break up because of my aggressive editing. The deterioration in the image was beyond digital noise and was almost impossible to fix even using the dedicated noise reduction tool.

    Images The Not So Obvious Reason 04

    This is when HDR came to the rescue. I selected three bracketed shots and merged them to HDR using the HDR Merge module of Lightroom.

    Images The Not So Obvious Reason 06

    After Lightroom produced a brand new HDR image in DNG format, I used the Sync functionality of the program to apply the editing setting of the original RAW file, to the new HDR image.

    The effect of the edits were identical to the original RAW file, but the image was much cleaner without any traces of deterioration. The newly created HDR file had much more information and details, which allowed me to push it much harder without producing negative artifacts.

    Images The Not So Obvious Reason 05

    The image is cropped 100% without any noise reduction added.

    The digital noise of the image was mild and was completely eliminated using the noise reduction plugin.

    Conclusion

    By merging multiple images to HDR, it not only helps us overcome the dynamic range limitations of modern photo equipment, but can also to produce images that have more digital information and details, compared to individual out-of-camera RAW files.

    Get Viktor’s Rapid Editing for HDR eBook, Course & Presets Bundle at 60% off now over at Snapndeals, only until June 7th (AUS time). 

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  • Review of the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary Lens Plus TC-1401 Teleconverter Bundle

    One of my favorite subjects to photograph is wildlife, so when asked to review the Sigma 150-600mm lens, I was excited about the opportunity to see how its results compared to my Tamron 150-600mm.

    Sigma 150-600mm

    In addition, Sigma recently began offering a bundle for their 150-600mm with a 1.4x teleconverter. Since I shoot mainly with a Nikon D750 full frame, the lens bundled with a 1.4x TC interested me very much. The 1.4x TC makes the 600mm, an 840mm on a full frame camera, so in theory this allows my full frame camera to shoot wildlife with nearly the same zoom factor as a crop sensor. (Nikon crop sensors are 1.5 and Canon, 1.6)

    There are two things to consider when looking at a new lens:

    1. First is its ease of use
    2. Second is the quality of its optics.

    In this article I’ll be applying both of these considerations as I review Sigma’s new bundle, and make comparisons between the Sigma and Tamron lenses. All images in this article were captured with the Sigma 150-600mm with the 1.4x TC.

    sigma-150-600-4

    Focusing

    The Tamron features a larger, thicker focusing ring than the Sigma, which makes it easier to manually focus the lens. As for the Sigma, it has an extra setting on the autofocus switch for manual override (MO) which combines autofocus with an option to manually focus. I did not notice any major difference in the focusing responsiveness between the two lenses. Both did a fair job when grabbing focus, though neither lens is going to focus as quickly as a much more costly 600mm prime lens. The minimum focusing distance on the Tamron is just slightly less than the Sigma – not a game changer, but nevertheless a plus for the Tamron.

    Focus Limiter switch

    While both lenses have a focus limiter switch, with settings between Full and 10m (Sigma) or 15m (Tamron) to infinity, the Sigma features a third option on the limiter switch for 10m to 2.8m. In my testing, this third option proved very useful and was easy to locate and use, in order to focus on closer objects much quicker.

    Customization

    A feature the Sigma lens offers that the Tamron does not is an extra customization switch, which provides for an optional USB docking station (purchased separately). This allows a photographer to create two customized setting for OS (Optical Stabilization), AF, and focus-distance limits, and can also be used to download firmware updates directly to the lens.

    sigma-150-600-5

    Zoom Lock

    Both the Tamron and the Sigma have a locking switch to prevent zoom creep at 150mm. However, the Sigma can also lock at several other focal settings, and what is even better, a quick twist of the zoom ring will unlock the it, without having to fumble around to find the switch. (In some cases this might be the difference between capturing and missing a killer shot!)

    I found that my Tamron lens crept more than the Sigma, but this could be caused by the fact that it is an older lens with more use. Still, the lock switch on the Sigma is a great feature, especially since one can “soft lock” at many focal lengths.

    Image Stabilization

    Both lenses have their own image stabilization systems: Tamron’s VC (Vibration Compensation) and Sigma’s OS (Optical Stabilization). The Tamron has a simple on and off for the VC, while the Sigma has two settings: #1 is the standard setting for normal lens movement, and setting #2 is used for hand-held panning on a vertical plane, which will correct for up and down movement in subjects, such as birds in flight.

    sigma-150-600-3

    Zoom Ring

    The zoom ring on the Sigma turns counter clock-wise, which is no big deal for Canon shooters. But for Nikon users, this is opposite from the normal zoom rotation on most Nikon lenses. It’s not a big deal, but does take some getting used to.

    Tripod Collar

    Both lens come standard with a tripod collar, but the foot on the Sigma collar is much smaller than the Tamron’s. This is only a minor problem, but I found a solution for it. I added a 5 inch quick release plate to the foot, which makes a great handle to carry the Sigma lens, as well as a plate to connect to a tripod.

    sigma-150-600-1

    Image Quality

    Here is where the comparison gets tougher, as both lenses are much sharper at the shorter focal lengths, and both are softer at the longer focal lengths. Both are sharper when stopped down to f/8 or f/9, than wide open. In my opinion, the difference in image quality between the two is negligible. There is no clear winner here, both having areas where they are slightly better than the other.

    The addition of the 1.4x TC to the Sigma when stopped down, doesn’t seem to affect the image quality. The Sigma seems to have a clear advantage when it comes to chromatic aberration (CA), and even using the 1.4x TC there was noticeably less fringing in high contrast areas, when compared to the Tamron. Of course, CA is very easily corrected in Camera RAW or Lightroom when shooting in RAW.

    sigma-150-600-7

    sigma-150-600-6

    Warranty

    The advantage for warranty goes to Tamron, which offers a 6 year one, compared to 4 years with the Sigma. Still, in my opinion, both lenses are well constructed, and I am not convinced how much of an advantage that is, as most warranty issues show up early on.

    1.4x Teleconverter

    Adding the bundle of the 1.4x TC, and the 150-600mm Sigma can get your full frame camera back in the field when it comes to wildlife photography. While adding the teleconverter seems to slow the autofocus a bit, I shot with this bundle on both my crop sensor and full frame sensor cameras, and I believe the autofocus was more responsive on the full frame.

    NOTE: Before purchasing the 1.4x TC, make sure the camera will autofocus at f/8. Many entry model DSLRs will not autofocus above f/5.6, so while this bundle may fit those cameras, manual focus will be necessary. Other models may only autofocus on the center focus point, and still others may have a limited number of focus points with the 1.4x TC.

    Adding the 1.4x TC did seem to give a softer image when the lens was extended to 600mm (840mm), but if you stop down to f/10 to f/11 the images are nearly as sharp as at 600mm without the TC. Of course, stopping down means either using a slower shutter speed or a higher ISO, which may add some blur or noise to an image. I did find that the OS on the Sigma did a nice job of reducing camera shake, when hand holding at slower shutter speeds.

    The above images show the range and extra reach of the Sigma 150-600mm with the last 2 images having the 1.4 TC added for an extra 240mm of reach.

    The above images show the range and extra reach of the Sigma 150-600mm with the last two images having the 1.4x TC added for an extra 240mm of reach.

    Tips

    The rule of thumb when shooting with long focal lengths is to set the shutter speed equal to, or greater than the focal length, so remember that when by adding the 1.4x TC to a 600mm, one is now shooting at 840mm on a full frame, and 1260 mm on a crop sensor. For sharp images, a shutter speed over 1/1000th of a second is a must.

    When carrying your camera with a large lens such as these 150-600mm lenses, it’s best to hold them by the lens rather than your camera. These lenses weigh much more than your camera and can put a lot of stress on the lens mount if carried by the camera. Likewise, when mounting on a tripod, always use the tripod collar to reduce stress on your camera’s lens mount (it is better balanced using the collar and won’t be front heavy).

    Conclusion

    Both the Tamron and Sigma lenses are well designed, and for the price range are great equipment investments. As mentioned earlier, I feel the image quality compared very closely. The Sigma does offer some useful extra features, out-weighing the issues of the smaller focusing ring and the counter-clockwise turning of the zoom ring for a Nikon shooter.

    If you currently have a Tamron it may not be worth making a switch. But with the addition of the 1.4x TC, the Sigma bundle offers a great setup for full frame cameras, as well as crop sensors for some extra reach. So if you are looking for some extra reach (and we all are) the addition of the 1.4 TC to the Sigma may be a game changer. It was for me!

    As a result of my review of the Sigma bundle for this article, I sold my Tamron 150-600mm, and purchased the Sigma 150-600mm bundled with the 1.4 TC, to extend the usage of my full frame Nikon D750, especially for photographing wildlife.

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    The post Review of the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary Lens Plus TC-1401 Teleconverter Bundle by Bruce Wunderlich appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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