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  • Is Shooting RAW+JPEG the Best of Both Worlds?

    For a long time in photography, there has been somewhat of a debate between shooting in RAW versus JPEG. Well, maybe debate is the wrong word. Usually, it is a matter of experienced photographers encouraging beginners to start shooting in RAW and stop shooting JPEG. There isn’t much question that RAW files are superior. Those who don’t edit their files probably don’t really see the point of RAW files though. Therefore, there are plenty of people who shoot both RAW+JPEG

    RAW+JPG - The Best of Both Worlds?

    Usually, this question gets presented as an either/or proposition. In other words, you have to make a decision, looking at the pros and cons of shooting RAW files and JPEGs. But if you could have the advantages of both, however, wouldn’t that be the way to go? You can, actually!

    Take a look at your camera’s Quality or Image Quality setting in the menu. Most cameras will allow you to set you to put that setting on both RAW and JPEG. By doing so, aren’t you getting the best of both worlds?

    Let’s take a look. But first, let’s review the advantages of RAW files versus JPEGs.

    RAW+JPG - The Best of Both Worlds?

    RAW+JPEG settings on Canon system.

    JPEGs

    When you take a picture, your camera is actually taking the data that it receives from the image sensor and creating a file. In the early days of digital, a group of experts got together and agreed on a file format everyone could use. It is called JPEG and stands for Joint Photographic Experts Group. The idea is that everyone would use the same format and thus it would be easily shareable. And you know what? That has worked out pretty well. JPEGs are more or less ubiquitous. If you just pick up your camera and start shooting, you are creating JPEGs. It is the default of virtually every camera. It is also the format of virtually every picture you see online.

    But when your camera creates a JPEG, a few things happen. The first is that the camera compresses the picture data so that the file size is smaller. A JPEG will only use about a quarter of the data that your camera captures. That means that a large chunk of data is actually discarded. Some of that is color data, which is done by reducing the number of available colors (there are still a lot of colors available in JPEGs though). Where you’ll see the biggest impact is in the highlights and shadows, where some detail may be lost.

    In addition, the camera will add some processing to the picture. The camera manufacturers know that you want your pictures coming out of the camera looking sharp and colorful. Therefore, they will add some effects, like sharpness, contrast, and saturation to them at the same time that the JPEG file is being created. That is nice in that the pictures generally do look at little better, but the downside is that you aren’t in control of the process.

    And that brings us to RAW files.

    RAW+JPG - The Best of Both Worlds?

    The RAW advantage

    In most cameras, you can go into the menu and change the file format to something called RAW. No, there isn’t really some sort of universal file format called RAW. Rather, each camera has its own way of bundling the data that it receives from the image sensor when you take the picture and creating its own proprietary file (NEF for Nikon, CRW or CR2 for Canon, RAF for Fuji, etc.), which is called a RAW file. Right away, you can see an issue with this, in that these files are not easily shareable. In addition, these files are huge, typically 3-4 times the size of JPEGs.

    So why does nearly everyone recommend shooting RAW then? Because they are simply superior files. Whereas JPEGs discard data in order to create a smaller file size, RAW files preserve all of that data. That means you keep all the color data, and you preserve everything you can in the way of highlight and shadow detail.

    In addition, whereas the camera adds processing when it creates JPEGs, that doesn’t happen when you create RAW files. That means you are in control of the process. You can add whatever level of sharpness, contrast, and saturation (and other controls) you want. The camera isn’t making those decisions for you.

    Sure, these files are bigger, but they are way better. Further, you can always create a JPEG from your RAW file later, which you can use to share online while still preserving all the underlying data of the RAW file.

    RAW+JPG - The Best of Both Worlds?

    RAW+JPEG in the Sony system.

    Shooting both RAW files and JPEGs

    So RAW files are the way to go, right? I mean, you are preserving all that color data and highlight and shadow detail. And you are in full control of the processing of your picture. But what about if you are not going to process your photos at all? Wouldn’t it make sense to then shoot JPEG since it is the file that looks best coming out of the camera? Or what if you need to send the photo from your camera right away?

    Why not take both? Your camera will likely have a setting allowing you to do both so that every time you take a picture the camera is creating a RAW file and a JPEG. That would allow you to have all the advantages of both file types. How might that benefit you? Here are a few ways I see:

    • You can use a JPEG immediately: First of all, you can use JPEGs immediately.  Let’s say you have Wifi in your camera or want to otherwise share the photo immediately. JPEGs make sense for this. RAW files don’t. They aren’t easily shareable and they don’t look the best coming out of the camera anyway.
    • Future-proofs the photo: What if you are creating RAW files with your Canon camera and in 10 years Canon goes out of business? Will your RAW files lose support over time? This seems unlikely, but it is enough of an issue that Adobe has been pushing its own cross-platform solution called DNG (digital negative). However, if you have a JPEG, this will never be an issue. Everyone is shooting JPEGs and they aren’t going anywhere.
    • You can see how the camera processes: If you have a JPEG sitting next to your RAW file on your computer, you can see how your camera decided to process your photo. In other words, you can see how much sharpening, contrast, and saturation was added and, if you like it, mimic that effect when you do your own processing. This can be helpful when you are just starting out and trying to decide how much processing to add to your photos.
    • LCD preview: When you look at a photo on your LCD, you are seeing the JPEG version of your photo. You can add different processing via the Pictures Styles. That includes things like Black and White. So if you want to see effects while maintaining the integrity of the RAW file, then taking both can be beneficial.

    Why not shoot only RAW?

    But wait a second, you might think. Surely these are really minor advantages. Why bother with all that? Why not just use the RAW file?

    Yes, these are really minor advantages, but at the same time, what is the cost? Virtually nothing. Over time, data has gotten cheaper and cheaper. Adding a JPEG costs virtually nothing. Memory cards these days hold hundreds or even thousands of pictures, and they are now pretty cheap. You can now get a 64GB card for about $ 35. You can get hard drives that store terabytes of data for under $ 100. These prices continue to come down as well. Compared to the RAW files you are shooting, the JPEG just takes up a tiny bit of data. So while I agree that adding the JPEG doesn’t add a lot, it also doesn’t cost a lot.

    There is one other aspect I haven’t mentioned though and that is speed. Remember that your camera has to write all this data to your card. If you are just taking a few pictures at a time (or one at a time), this will not be a factor. But if you are someone shooting sports or wildlife with a serious need for the maximum frames per second, then there will be an additional cost. The time to write the additional file will slow you down a little bit. In that context, I could definitely see foregoing the extra file. But for most of us, this won’t apply.

    RAW+JPG - The Best of Both Worlds?

    Why not shoot just JPEG?

    At the same time, there are some photographers who will think to themselves, “Well, I don’t process my pictures, so I might as well just shoot JPEGs to get the best looking file I can straight out of the camera.” To those that don’t process their pictures, I would first say, “You should be.” You don’t need to make dramatic changes or make them look surreal, but you can do wonders with some tweaks.

    In any case, just because you don’t do any processing of your pictures now doesn’t mean you won’t ever process your pictures. In a year or two, you might change your mind. When that happens, you don’t want to be kicking yourself for not having obtained the best files possible.

    Best of both worlds

    I have been shooting RAW+JPEG for several years now. Do I actually use the JPEGs? Admittedly, almost never. I always edit the RAW files and usually don’t touch the JPEGs. As mentioned, however, the JPEGs don’t cost me anything so I am sticking with this setting. In addition, there were few times when I was on the road and wanted to send photos straight from my camera so having the JPEG turned out to be useful.

    So that’s how it works for me. But ultimately the decision on what type of files you want to create is up to you. What do you think? Is shooting RAW+JPEG the best of both worlds of a waste of space?

    The post Is Shooting RAW+JPEG the Best of Both Worlds? by Jim Hamel appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Video – How to Use Light for Depth and Drama in Your Landscape Photos

    If you enjoy landscape photography, here is a short video with photographer Andrew Marr as he explores a gorgeous location in Glencoe Scotland. Learn how he looks for light to add depth and more drama to his landscape photos, and see how you apply these tips to your photography.

    If you want more landscape tips, check out these dPS articles:

    • 6 of the Best Smartphone Apps for Travel and Landscape Photography
    • How a Short Versus Long Exposure Will Affect Your Landscape Images
    • How to Find the Best Locations for Landscape Photography
    • How to Plan and Prepare for Landscape Photography
    • How to Create Glass Ball Landscapes – 6 Techniques

    Do you have other landscape tips you’d like to share? Please do so in the comments below.

    The post Video – How to Use Light for Depth and Drama in Your Landscape Photos by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • This interactive fall foliage prediction map helps photographers plan for the season

    Believe it or not, it’s already September. In 16 short days and some change, autumn will officially begin in the Northern Hemisphere, and photographers across the US (and the world) will go hunting for the perfect orange-and-red peppered photograph of the season. Well, if you’re in the United States, you’re in luck: there’s an interactive map available that will help you plan your trip to capture the best possible colors.

    It’s called the Fall Foliage Prediction Map, and the 2017 version is officially live on SmokyMountains.com.

    Using the map is straightforward: simply go to this link, drag the slider to your desired date and watch as the interactive map of the United States changes color to reveal when any particular area will be at No Change, Minimal, Patchy, Partial, Near Peak, Peak, and Past Peak fall foliage conditions.

    The map isn’t perfect, of course, but SmokyMountains.com has been putting this resource together for several years now and many photographers swear by it. To check it out for yourself, click here.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Childhood

    What does childhood mean to you? This could be photos of children, their small hands, or the things associated with that time of life like crayons, rubber boots and puddles, frogs, toys, old photos, and so many other things.

    Crayons are for kids – or are they? Photo by Aaron Burden on Unsplash

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Childhood

    Let’s see what childhood means to you?

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Childhood by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Ohio photographer shot by police officer who mistook camera for gun

    New Carlisle News photojournalist Andy Grimm was shot by Sheriff’s Deputy Jake Shaw on Monday after the officer mistook Grimm’s camera and tripod for a gun, according to the news organization.

    Per New Carlisle News—a local news organization in New Carlisle, Ohio—and Grimm’s statements about the incident, Grimm had left the company’s office around 10PM to photograph lightning. At some point after this, Grimm witnessed a traffic stop being performed by Shaw, which he decided to photograph. Grimm says he pulled his vehicle into the parking lot of a restaurant near the traffic stop, where he began setting up his tripod and camera “in full view of the deputy.”

    Despite this, Grimm said, “I turned around towards the cars and then ‘pop, pop,’” referencing the gunfire he heard before being shot in the side.

    The photographer underwent surgery and is expected to recover. Grimm states that he knows the deputy who shot him and that he doesn’t want him to lose his job; however, he says Shaw failed to give him any sort of warning before opening fire. New Carlisle News says that the Ohio Bureau of Criminal Investigation is now looking into the incident.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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  • How to Find Your Photography Niche

    This is a quick tip to help you see why finding your photography niche could be beneficial to you and the growth of your photography.

    Photography niche 03

    The problem with shooting everything

    If you could shoot anything you want and get paid for it, why wouldn’t you? That’s an easy enough question for pretty much anyone to answer. You know what you like to shoot, what you get the most joy out of, have the most fun editing, and what gives you the most satisfaction when you see the end result. But if you are like the many photographers all over the world shooting pretty much everything, you aren’t making the kind of artistic growth you’d like to see or have the satisfaction you’d like to experience. A good way for you to overcome a lack of satisfaction or a decrease of productivity is to dive into a photographic niche.



    What is a niche?

    A niche is defined as a specialized segment of the market for a particular kind of product or service. There’s a reason why you go to a doctor when you’re sick, call a plumber when your pipes burst, or a contractor when you want to build a home. They spend years studying and working in their fields, and the consistent quality of their work is proof of it. It’s the same with photography.

    You wouldn’t go to a landscape photographer to get your portrait taken, or a sports photographer to shoot your new product When you think of great photographers, who comes to mind? The landscape photographer, Ansel Adams, portrait photographer Richard Avedon, or fashion photographer Annie Leibovitz? You associate each of these people with the type of photography for which they are famous.


    Photography niche 07

    What do you like to photograph?

    Now, think about yourself for a second. What do you want to be known for? What have you been shooting, what do you want to shoot? The first step in deciding which photography niche you want to delve into is identifying what you want to shoot. The decision is ultimately yours when it comes to finding a niche or genre that you really enjoy. Take a look at the work you are doing now and ask yourself if it’s fulfilling or if there’s something else you’d like to shoot.

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    Do you want to shoot something else? No? Then congratulations, you’re a few steps ahead of the game. If you do want to shoot something else, however, the next couple of paragraphs are just for you.

    If you’re not shooting what you want now, it’s definitely not the easiest thing to change, especially if you’re known for whatever it is you’re doing at the moment. It can be a scary and drawn out process going through a rebranding, but in the end, it will be the right decision. Making money doing what you want to do has many benefits.

    Photography niche 10

    Photography niche 12

    Create a portfolio

    The first step is to target your preferred audience and curate a portfolio. Spend a decent amount of time making your new portfolio something you’re proud of. Start off small, book TFP (time for print) shoots with models if you want to get into fashion. Set up a small studio in your garage if you want to get the best product photos you can manage. Get out there as often as you can and shoot, but don’t share anything just yet. You want to make sure that you have a cohesive body of work ready to go first.

    Some niches are harder to get into without an existing portfolio, but it’s doable. You don’t need an amazing wedding portfolio to book your first wedding. But at that first wedding you photograph, be as deliberate as you can be in order to make as many photos portfolio shots as possible. Stockpile a good amount of content because you’re going to need it soon.

    Photography niche 13

    Clean up your online presence

    Once you have a good amount of content for whatever niche you’re wanting to get into, you need to scrub out every remnant of your previous work off the Internet (if you have any). I know that once you post something on the technological marvel which is the world wide web, it’s out there in some way shape or form. But removing the primary source, like anything on your website or social media is pretty easy to take care of.

    Once you get rid of that, anything linking to the post is now a 404 error, meaning that it doesn’t show up anymore. Once you have your old work more or less purged from the internet, now is the time to get your new work in front of your preferred audience. Throw those photos on your website, inundate social media with your images, GET THEM SEEN by your target audience.

    Photography niche 14

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    Conclusion

    That’s it, in a nutshell. When it comes down to it, you need to identify for yourself what you want to shoot, and go out and shoot it. Start small, simple, and perfect your vision and build that portfolio. Set the foundation of your brand within the niche you select.

    Practice as much as you can and get your vision as close to perfect as you can. Once you build up your new portfolio, get it seen by your target audience. Identify, visualize, curate, and execute. Think about these steps and get into the photography niche that you want!

    Photography niche 16

    Photography niche 17

    The post How to Find Your Photography Niche by Jack Lungu appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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